| 响水近岸海域波浪特性研究 |
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| 引用本文： | 高晨晨,周谷城,王侃睿.响水近岸海域波浪特性研究[J].海洋学报,2019,41(5):23-34. |
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| 作者姓名： | 高晨晨 周谷城 王侃睿 |
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| 作者单位： | 上海市水利工程设计研究院有限公司,上海 200061;上海滩涂海岸工程技术研究中心,上海 200061;上海市水利工程设计研究院有限公司,上海 200061;上海滩涂海岸工程技术研究中心,上海 200061;上海市水利工程设计研究院有限公司,上海 200061;上海滩涂海岸工程技术研究中心,上海 200061 |
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| 基金项目： | 上海市2014年度"科技创新行动计划"海洋与崇明生态岛建设领域项目（14DZ1205200）。 |
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| 摘 要： | 基于响水波浪站累计一整年的现场观测资料,分析了波高和波周期的年内变化特性,研究了波浪的统计特性和波谱特性,并总结归纳了该海域各特征波要素之间以及各波谱参数之间的转换关系。结果显示:响水海域全年有效波高的变化幅度在0.10~2.80 m之间,年平均值为0.56 m;最大波高的变化幅度在0.15~5.58 m之间,年平均值为0.93 m;平均波周期的变化范围为1.91~9.02 s,年平均值为3.90 s。夏季大波高发生频率明显要小于冬、春季节,波浪季节性变化较为显著。就波高和波周期分布而言,通过拟合得出的Weibull分布较为适合本海域实测波高分布和波周期分布。波谱特性方面,本海域双峰谱占到总数的62.5%,且低频谱峰值普遍高于高频谱峰值,其中低频谱峰出现在0.04 Hz左右,高频谱峰则出现在0.15~0.20 Hz之间,分别为本海域涌浪和风浪所集中的频率区间。采用回归分析方法进一步分析了各特征波要素之间以及各波谱参数之间的关系,发现多数波参数之间存在显著的相关性,但受波浪浅水变形影响,各参数之间的比值与理论深水关系有所区别。本文的研究成果可为沿海建筑物的设计以及防灾减灾提供参考和依据。
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| 关 键 词： | 响水 波浪特性 波浪谱 波参数 回归分析 |
| 收稿时间： | 2018/8/8 0:00:00 |
Study on wave characteristics in the nearshore waters of Xiangshui |
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| Gao Chenchen,Zhou Gucheng and Wang Kanrui.Study on wave characteristics in the nearshore waters of Xiangshui[J].Acta Oceanologica Sinica (in Chinese),2019,41(5):23-34. |
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| Authors: | Gao Chenchen Zhou Gucheng and Wang Kanrui |
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| Affiliation: | Shanghai Water Engineering Design and Research Institute Co., Ltd., Shanghai 200061, China;Shanghai Engineering Research Center of Coastal Zones, Shanghai 200061, China |
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| Abstract: | Based on one-year field observation wave data measured in nearshore waters of Xiangshui, the variations of wave heights and periods are investigated, the statistical and spectral characteristics of waves are analyzed and the relationship among the characteristic wave heights, the characteristic wave periods and the wave spectra parameters are identified. Results show that the significant wave height varies from 0.10 m to 2.80 m with the average of 0.56 m, the maximum wave height varies from 0.15 m to 5.58 m with the average of 0.93 m and the mean wave period varies from 1.91 s to 9.02 s with the average of 3.90 s. The probability of huge waves in summer is obviously less than that in winter and spring, showing the seasonal variability. With respect to wave height and wave period distribution, the Weibull distribution works better on the distributions of measured wave height and period. In terms of wave spectrum properties, the percentage of double-peaked spectra is 62.5 during the measurement period. The spectral peak value corresponding to a lower peak frequency is generally higher than the one corresponding to a higher peak frequency, and the lower peak frequency is around 0.04 Hz, the higher peak frequency is between 0.15 Hz to 0.20 Hz, which corresponds to the frequency intervals of the sea swells and wind waves respectively. Besides, the transformations of several characteristic wave heights, characteristic wave periods and the wave spectra parameters are obtained by linear regression analysis, and strong correlations between them are found, however, due to the wave deformation in shallow water, these ratio coefficients are different from those ones in deep water. The research results of this paper could serve as reference and guidance for the design of coastal structures as well as for disaster prevention and mitigation. |
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| Keywords: | Xiangshui wave characteristics wave spectra wave parameter regression analysis |
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