| 不规则波在孔隙介质礁坪上传播过程的波高和增水变化数值研究 |
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| 引用本文： | 何栋彬,马玉祥,董国海.不规则波在孔隙介质礁坪上传播过程的波高和增水变化数值研究[J].海洋学报,2022,44(10):163-172. |
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| 作者姓名： | 何栋彬 马玉祥 董国海 |
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| 作者单位： | 大连理工大学 海岸和近海工程国家重点实验室，辽宁 大连 116024 |
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| 基金项目： | 国家自然科学基金（51720105010）；辽宁省“兴辽英才计划”（XLYC1807010）；中央高校基本科研业务费（DUT2019TB02）。 |
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| 摘 要： |
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| 关 键 词： | 非静压模型 孔隙介质 岛礁地形 波浪增水 |
| 收稿时间： | 2021-08-17 |
A numerical investigation on wave height and wave setup of irregular wave propagation at the reef flat with porous media |
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| Affiliation: | State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering, Dalian University of Technology, Dalian 116024, China |
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| Abstract: | A three-dimensional non-hydrostatic model based on volumed-averaged, Reynolds-averaged Navier-Stokes (VARANS) equations in sigma coordinate, is applied to simulate the propagation process of irregular wave over a typical fringing coral reef profile, with emphasis on the changes of wave height and wave setup on the reef flat. Compared with the laboratory measured data of several groups of wave and water level parameters, the model is shown to be capable of simulating well the wave transformation over the reef profile with and without porous media. Across all cases, the porous cases decrease the wave height by 12% around the breaking point, and by 28% on the reef flat than the smooth cases. As for the mean water level, the results show that the maximum setdown decreases by 43% on average for the porous cases than the smooth cases, while the wave setup on the reef flat for corresponding porous and smooth simulations is found to agree with an average difference of only 6%. In addition, the variation of porosity in the range 0.47?0.87 auses little effect on the wave setup. |
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