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1.
Hartwell SI 《Marine environmental research》2008,65(3):199-217
Sediment samples were collected to delineate the distribution of contaminants along the central California coast. Sampling included a variety of Canyons and shelf/slope areas to evaluate contaminant transport patterns and potential delivery to Canyons and the continental slope to a depth of 1200 m. Sediments were collected and analyzed for organic contaminants using standard techniques of the NOAA National Status and Trends Program (NS&T). DDT is distributed on the shelf within a zone of fine-grained sediments between Half Moon and Monterey Bays. DDT was found at higher concentrations in Ascension, A?o Nuevo, and Monterey/Soquel Canyons than in Pioneer and Carmel Canyons, the Gulf of the Farallones, or the continental slope. The Monterey Bay watershed appears to be the primary source of DDT. In contrast, PAHs and PCBs on the shelf appear to be derived primarily from San Francisco Bay. DDT appears to be delivered to the deep ocean via the Canyons more than from cross-shelf sediment transport. Sediment budget estimates for the continental shelf north of Monterey Bay need further refinement and more data to account for the movement of material from Monterey Bay onto the shelf. 相似文献
2.
Wave overtopping nearshore coastal structures, such as shore-parallel breakwaters, can significantly alter the current circulation and sediment transport patterns around the structures, which in turn affects the formation of tombolos and salients in the nearshore area. This paper describes the implementation of a wave overtopping module into an existing depth-averaged coastal morphological mode: COAST2D and model applications to investigate the effect of wave overtopping on the hydrodynamics and morphodynamics around a group of shore-parallel breakwaters. The hydrodynamic aspects of the model were validated against a series of laboratory conditions. The model was then applied to a study site at Sea Palling, Norfolk, UK, where 9 shore-parallel segmented breakwaters including 4 surface-piercing and 5 low-crested breakwaters are present, for the storm conditions in Nov 2006. The model results were compared with laboratory data and field measurements, showing a good agreement on both hydrodynamics and morphological changes. Further analysis of wave overtopping effect on the nearshore hydrodynamics and morphodynamics reveals that wave overtopping has significant impacts on the nearshore circulation, sediment transport and the resulting morphological changes within such a complex breakwater scheme under the storm and macro-tide conditions. The results indicate the importance of including the wave overtopping in modelling nearshore morphodynamics with the presence of coastal structures. 相似文献
3.
Estimation of Longshore Sediment Transport Rate for a Typical Pocket Beach Along West Coast of India
Estimation of Longshore Sediment Transport Rate (LSTR) in the littoral zone is essential for managing and developing any coastal zone. Numerical models are powerful tool to understand and investigate various processes responsible for LSTR in a systematic manner since direct measurement of LSTR is a difficult task. A one dimensional LITDRIFT model was implemented along the Vengurla coast for estimation of LSTR and to analyze the sensitivity of each input parameters towards the computation of LSTR. Major input parameters required for the estimation of LSTR are nearshore wave climate, bathymetry, and sediment characteristics. The nearshore wave data at a depth of 15 m were collected using wave rider buoy in 2015 is used in the present study. Field observations were carried out to survey the regional bathymetry and sediment characteristics. Annual net LSTR along Vengurala coast is relatively less and varies from ?7778 to ?9015 m3 with an average of ?8511 m3. The net direction of LSTR is towards south and gross LSTR is 1.18 × 105 m3/year. The LSTR reveals more sensitivity to coastline orientation and wave direction. A 1° changes in coastline angle and wave direction causes approximately 3000 m3/month difference in LSTR. Moreover, wave height, wave period, and bed roughness has an important role for controlling LSTR. The model results help to identify the role of each parameter contributing towards LSTR estimation and a similar model approach can be applied to other coasts for estimating LSTR in an accurate way. 相似文献
4.
南渡江三角洲海岸泥沙纵向运移与岸滩演变的响应 总被引：7，自引：0，他引：7
南渡三角洲沿岸在盛行ＮＮＥ向波浪等动力条件的作用下,泥沙产生纵向运移,岸滩遭受侵蚀或堆积,岸滩演变剧烈。本文利用基于网格的波注折射绕射模型,分析南渡江三角洲海岸波浪动力过程、破波带波能与辐射应力分布及其引起的沿岸泥沙纵向运称。浴海岸动力学地貌的角度,通过三角洲沿岸波浪动力特征、泥沙运动的分析,探讨沙质岸滩的动态与地貌演变。 相似文献
5.
Beach-nearshore profiles combined with beach and surficial sediment samples were analyzed in conjunction with wave, current, littoral drift and sea-level data to determine the effect of bedrock on morphodynamic processes within the littoral zone of Alexandria on the Mediterranean coast of Egypt. This 14.5-km-long littoral cell is bounded by pronounced embayments and pocket beaches separated by headlands which prevent bypassing of beach sands, in effect making this cell a large, semi-closed basin. The compartmented nature of this cell acts together with the rough irregularity of the rocky seafloor to trap a thin veneer of sediment (<3 m thick), showing proportional mixing between two sedimentary provinces. A modern fine-grained sediment facies consisting of mixed carbonate/siliciclastic sand flanks most of the nearshore zone down to a depth of 8–10 m. Beyond this depth, considered to be the depth of closure, a relict late Pleistocene to mid-Holocene coarse-grained facies composed of biogenic carbonate sand is found. Along a short section of the coastline (km 3–6), the coarser sediment also occupies the nearshore zone. Over most of the study area the two sediment types are mixed in various proportions, largest mixing coinciding with poorest sorting. Profile analyses revealed seasonal changes in sediment volume along the coast which closely follow the cyclicity of seasonal changes in wave climate. The present shoreline orientation, headlands and rough, irregular rocky seabed are reflected in the erosion/accretion pattern, sediment characteristics, and the reversibility of longshore currents and littoral drift. Although there is a marked deficiency in the sediment balance, the sand budget for this cell, including artificial material (2.339*106 m3) has increased slightly by 0.041*106 m3 year–1
as a result of engineering works carried out to widen the coastal road (Corniche). In addition to the physical properties of the bedrock (degree of induration), the accelerating sea-level rise during the Holocene and human influences, the modern morphology of the coast, the erosional seabed features in the nearshore zone, and the texture of seabed sediments are all controlled by the original geometry of the coast which consisted of an elevated subaerial ridge. 相似文献
6.
Antonio H.F. Klein Óscar Ferreira Joao M.A. Dias Moyses G. Tessler Lucas F. Silveira Lindino Benedet Joao T. de Menezes Jose G.N. de Abreu 《Coastal Engineering》2010
This paper presents a comprehensive review on the interaction between hydrodynamic processes, beach morphology and sedimentology at large scale coastal behaviour along the coastline of Santa Catarina, between Laguna and São Francisco Island, a microtidal east coast swell environment with headland and bay geomorphologies. The parabolic bay shape equation has proven to be a convenient and practical tool for studying the stability of the headland-bay beaches, tombolos, and salients in Santa Catarina. The beaches exhibit different patterns of sediment removal as a function of the degree of beach curvature. In highly curved beaches, there is a well-developed shadow zone and a range of morphodynamic conditions, from a sheltered low-energy beach adjacent to the downdrift headland to a high-energy exposed beach on the straight end of the headland-bay beach. The less curved beaches instead, tend to show more uniform behaviour since they are directly exposed to incident waves. There is no obvious relationship between average wave height and mean grain size, showing the importance of sediment source to characterize the sedimentary distribution patterns in the study area. The analysis of beaches showed that beach morphodynamics and sequence profiles for a bay–headland coast in a microtidal east coast environment is a function of geological inheritance (e.g., distance between headlands and orientation, nearshore and inner shelf morphology, coastal plain morphology, and sediment source), and hydrodynamic factors (wave conditions, oceanic wave exposure and relative tidal range). 相似文献
7.
8.
基于越南巴达棱湾2007年4月采集的42个表层沉积物样品及实测水文资料,分析越南巴达棱湾表层沉积物特征,并结合GSTA模型分析表层沉积物的运移趋势。结果表明:越南巴达棱湾表层沉积物以粗颗粒为主,在潮流和波浪的作用下呈中西部粗、东部细的分布特征;其西侧表层沉积物沿岸线自西南向湾内运移,中西近岸区沉积物垂直于岸线做离岸输移,在湾的东侧存在自东北向西南的运移趋势,并与从湾西运移过来的底沙相遇,形成运移辐聚区,并在余流的作用下,向西运移;"波浪掀沙,潮流输沙"是该地区表层沉积物输运的主要作用机制;在波浪的作用下,研究海域的海岸线处于侵蚀状态,有后退的趋势。 相似文献
9.
A four-year investigation of surf zone sedimentation at Presque Isle, Pennsylvania, was undertaken in preparation for the design of a segmented breakwater system. Sediment transport calculations were based on hind-cast annual wave power statistics and “calibrated” by known accretion rates at the downdrift spit terminus. 30,000 m3 of sediment reaches the peninsula annually from updrift beaches. The transport volume increases downdrift due to shoreface erosion and retreat of the peninsular neck. At the most exposed point on Presque Isle (the lighthouse) the annual transport is 209,000 m3. East of the lighthouse is a zone of net shoreface accretion as the longshore transport rate progressively decreases.
The downdrift variation in sediment supply, combined with increasing refraction and attenuation of the dominant westerly storm waves produce a systematic change in prevailing surf zone morphology. Storms produce a major longshore bar and trough along the exposed peninsular neck. The wave energy during non-storm periods is too low to significantly alter the bar which consequently becomes a permanent feature. The broad shoreface and reduced wave energy level east of the lighthouse produce a morphology characterized by large crescentic outer bars, transverse bars, and megacusps along the beach. At the sheltered and rapidly prograding eastern spit terminus the prevalent beach morphology is that of a ridge and runnel system in front of a megacuspate shore.
The morphodynamic surf zone model developed for oceanic beaches in Australia is used as a basis for interpretation of shoreface morphologic variability at Presque Isle. In spite of interference by major shoreline stabilization structures, and differences between oceanic and lake wave spectra, the nearshore bar field at Presque Isle does closely correspond to the Australian model. 相似文献
10.
Balaena Bay, Wellington Harbour, New Zealand, has a small pocket beach that was covered originally by pebbles and cobbles. In February and October 1982, the beach was nourished with sandy granular gravel, the stability of which was monitored until February 1984. Although isolated from oceanic swell, the new beach readily responded to locally generated wind waves which induced both northwards and southwards longshore drift. The net effect was erosion of the southern beach, aggradation over the central beach, and minor fluctuations at the northern end. Yet despite this mobility nearly all the nourishment sediment was retained in the littoral zone. Beach volumes, calculated for each survey, varied little and sediment distribution patterns revealed negligable transport of nourishment sediment to adjacent beaches and offshore areas. Stability is further confirmed by compositional data which record no preferential loss of the sandstone, argillite, and quartz components. The only compositional changes were the incorporation into the new beach of small (< 10%) quantities of sediment derived from the old beach surface and from biogenic productivity. 相似文献
11.
Joevivek Vincent Jayaraj Chandrasekar Nainarpandian Jayangondaperumal Ramakrishnan Thakur Vikram Chandr Shree Purniema Krishnan 《海洋学报(英文版)》2019,38(5):151-160
To analyze the grain size and depositional environment of the foreshore sediments, a study was undertaken on wave refraction along the wide sandy beaches of central Tamil Nadu coast. The nearshore waves approach the coast at 45° during the northeast(NE) monsoon, at 135° during the southwest(SW) monsoon and at 90° during the non-monsoon or fair-weather period with a predominant wave period of 8 and 10 s. A computer based wave refraction pattern is constructed to evaluate the trajectories of shoreward propagating waves along the coast in different seasons. The convergent wave rays during NE monsoon, leads to high energy wave condition which conveys a continuous erosion at foreshore region while divergent and inept condition of rays during the SW and non-monsoon, leads to moderate and less energy waves that clearly demarcates the rebuilt beach sediments through littoral sediment transport. The role of wave refraction in foreshore deposits was understood by grain size and depositional environment analysis. The presence of fine grains with the mixed population, during the NE monsoon reveals that the high energy wave condition and sediments were derived from beach and river environment. Conversely, the presence of medium grains with uniform population, during SW and non-monsoon attested less turbulence and sediments were derived from prolong propagation of onshore-offshore wave process.These upshots are apparently correlated with the in situ beach condition. On the whole, from this study it is understood that beaches underwent erosion during the NE monsoon and restored its original condition during the SW and non-monsoon seasons that exposed the stability of the beach and nearshore condition. 相似文献
12.
The formation of beach megacusps along the shoreline of southern Monterey Bay, CA, is investigated using time-averaged video and simulated with XBeach, a recently developed coastal sediment transport model. Investigations focus on the hydrodynamic role played by the bay's ever-present rip channels. A review of four years of video and wave data from Sand City, CA, indicates that megacusps most often form shoreward of rip channels under larger waves (significant wave height (Hs) = 1.5–2.0 m). However, they also occasionally appear shoreward of shoals when waves are smaller (Hs ~ 1 m) and the mean water level is higher on the beach. After calibration to the Sand City site, XBeach is shown to hindcast measured shoreline change moderately well (skill = 0.41) but to overpredict the erosion of the swash region and beach face. Simulations with small to moderate waves (Hs = 0.5–1.2 m) suggest, similar to field data, that megacusps will form shoreward of either rip channels or shoals, depending on mean daily water level and pre-existing beach shape. A frequency-based analysis of sediment transport forcing is performed, decomposing transport processes to the mean, infragravity, and very-low-frequency (VLF) contributions for two highlighted cases. Results indicate that the mean flow plays the dominant role in both types of megacusp formation, but that VLF oscillations in sediment concentration and advective flow are also significant. 相似文献
13.
《Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science》2006,66(1-2):204-210
Construction measures to stabilise or spatially extend coastlines have become a routine measure in urbanised coastal zones. This study quantifies beach profile changes and sediment transport along an artificial beach in Townsville, NE-Queensland. The “Strand” was transformed from a single degraded shoreline into a shoreline with five embayments (or “pocket beaches”) split by four artificial rocky headlands in 1998. The modified shoreline has had an impact on the local and regional northward long-shore sediment pathway, creating local shifts in sand. Sediment deposition and erosion occur at the same time at different parts of the pocket beaches. Collected offshore sediments show that little artificial sand is transported more than a few meters seaward in the south-eastern part of the Strand, while substantial and long-ranging export, i.e., tens to hundreds of meters, occurs in the north-western area. This is mainly the result of the breakwaters south of the Strand, which impacts the predominant northward long-shore sediment transport induced by the dominant south-easterly winds. 相似文献
14.
Abraham Golik 《Geo-Marine Letters》1993,13(3):159-164
The geographical distribution of coal particles that fell during nine years to the sea bottom from the open sea coal terminal off Hadera, Israel, shows a consistent northerly transport path, and it is inconceivable that the sand at that location would move in an opposite direction. Semicircular, current-scoured moats associated with small mounds found at the edge of the continental shelf off Ashdod and Haifa, Israel, also suggest a general northward-directed sediment transport. The northward sediment flow on the Israeli continental shelf inferred from this evidence therefore supports the model of Emery and Neev about general sand transport patterns along the Israeli coastline and continental shelf. 相似文献
15.
Distribution and thickness of sedimentary facies in the coastal dune, beach and nearshore sedimentary system at Maspalomas, Canary Islands 总被引：1，自引：1，他引：0
Angela Fontán Bouzas Javier Alcántara-Carrió Isabel Montoya Montes Andrés Barranco Ojeda Silvia Albarracín Jorge Rey Díaz de Rada Jorge Rey Salgado 《Geo-Marine Letters》2013,33(2-3):117-127
Numerous studies have shown that most beaches and coastal dune systems of the world are currently eroding but very few have investigated the combined sediment budgets of subaerial and nearshore submarine systems. In the case of the dune field of the Maspalomas Natural Special Reserve (in the south of Gran Canaria), the adjacent Maspalomas and El Inglés beaches and the adjacent submarine platform, the sediment budgets have been severely affected by erosion over the past few decades. The objectives of this study were to investigate the availability of sand within the modern sedimentary system, including the coastal dunes, the beaches and the submerged shelf, but also to assess local sediment sinks. An isopach map generated on the basis of topo-bathymetric data and seismic-reflection profiles revealed that sediment thickness varies from 0–22 m in the study area. Expanses of relatively low sediment thickness were identified in the south-western sector of the coastal dune field along Maspalomas beach, and in the nearshore region to the south of this beach. These localized sediment-deficit areas earmark Maspalomas beach as the most vulnerable shore strip threatened by erosion. The shallow seismic data also revealed that the submarine platform south of Maspalomas represents a marine terrace cut into an ancient alluvial fan, thus documenting an influence of the geomorphological heritage on the present-day morphodynamics. A side-scan sonar mosaic of this nearshore platform enabled the delimitation of areas covered by rock, boulders and gravel, vegetated sand patches and a mobile sand facies, the latter including ripple and megaripple fields. The megaripple field in a valley close to the talus of the marine terrace has been identified as a major sediment sink of the Maspalomas sedimentary system. It is fed by south-westerly storm-wave events. The sediment deficit in the coastal dune field and along Maspalomas beach can therefore only be explained by a currently faster loss of sediment to an offshore sink than can be compensated by the supply of sand from outside the system. 相似文献
16.
连云港西大堤工程建设影响作用评价 总被引：4，自引：0，他引：4
西大堤的建成使连云港由原来的海峡通道型港口变为半封闭的人工海湾型港口,风浪条件改善,可利用的港口岸线大大加长,为连云港亿吨大港的建设提供了契机,也改善了连云港与东西连岛的交通条件,促进了旅游业的发展.另一方面,也改变了海湾内水动力与沉积环境.大堤建成后,湾内潮波由前进波转变为驻波,水体交换能力减弱,湾内水质污染加重,尤其是湾顶水域污染最重;同时加剧了湾内泥沙的淤积,在西大堤内侧形成新的潮滩,位于湾顶的老海滨浴场被淤废.由于西大堤封堵了连云海峡西口门,使得近岸泥沙的运移路径改变,北部的泥沙流自海州湾东去沿大堤折向东西连岛方向,在大堤的外侧和东西连岛外缘形成新的落淤场所,大沙湾和苏马湾海滨浴场受到影响.沉积作用的加剧已影响到港口及周边海岸与水利设施的正常运作,因而应加强对港区及周边海洋环境的监测与研究,缓建西大堤内侧北港区码头,并对西大堤西端进行透空式改造,以从根本上解决港区泥沙淤积问题. 相似文献
17.
废黄河三角洲是南黄海内陆架的重要物源。为深入探索废黄河口海域沉积物输运机制,利用2015~2016年夏季与冬季在废黄河口外海域10个站位获取的现场沉积动力数据,计算潮不对称参数、余流、悬沙输运量等。分析结果表明,废黄河口海域沉积物输运模式存在显著的空间差异,大部分海域悬沙沿等深线向南输运,仅在近岸侧局部悬沙向岸或向北输运、离岸最远处站位向北输运但输运率较小;近岸浅水海域以平流输沙为主,其他离岸区域以再悬浮作用为主。由于流速和悬沙浓度之间的相位差,导致余流(净水输运)方向与净悬沙输运方向存在差异。研究沉降速度与悬沙输运涨落潮不对称的关系,发现沉降速度越大,悬沙输运的不对称性就越显著;沉降速度是造成近底部流速与悬沙浓度相位差的主要原因,导致废黄河口外净悬沙输运存在显著的垂向差异。 相似文献
18.
Sediment transport and beach morphodynamics induced by free long waves,bound long waves and wave groups 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
New laboratory data are presented on the influence of free long waves, bound long waves and wave groups on sediment transport in the surf and swash zones. As a result of the very significant difficulties in isolating and identifying the morphodynamic influences of long waves and wave groups in field conditions, a laboratory study was designed specifically to enable measurements of sediment transport that resolve these influences. The evolution of model sand beaches, each with the same initial plane slope, was measured for a range of wave conditions, firstly using monochromatic short waves. Subsequently, the monochromatic conditions were perturbed with free long waves and then substituted with bichromatic wave groups with the same mean energy flux. The beach profile changes and net cross-shore transport rates were extracted and compared for the different wave conditions, with and without long waves and wave groups. The experiments include a range of wave conditions, e.g. high-energy, moderate-energy, low-energy waves, which induce both spilling and plunging breakers and different turbulent intensities, and the beaches evolve to form classical accretive, erosive, and intermediate beach states. The data clearly demonstrate that free long waves influence surf zone morphodynamics and promote increased onshore sediment transport during accretive conditions and decreased offshore transport under erosive conditions. In contrast, wave groups, which can generate both forced and free long waves, generally reduce onshore transport during accretive conditions and increase offshore transport under erosive conditions. The influence of the free long waves and wave groups is consistent with the concept of the relative fall velocity, H/wsT, as a dominant parameter controlling net beach erosion or accretion. Free long waves tend to reduce H/wsT, promoting accretion, while wave groups tend to increase the effective H/wsT, promoting erosion. 相似文献
19.
MONTY A. HAMPTON CHARLES T. BLAY CHRISTOPHER J. MURRAY 《Marine Georesources & Geotechnology》2013,31(1-2):65-102
Large sediment deposits on the reef front around Oahu are a possible resource for replenishing eroded beaches. High-resolution subbottom profiles clearly depict the deposits in three study areas: Kailua Bay off the windward coast, Makua to Kahe Point off the leeward coast, and Camp Erdman to Waimea off the north coast. Most of the sediment is in water depths between 20 and 100?m, resting on submerged shelves created during lowstands of sea level. The mapped deposits have a volume of about 4?×?108?m3 in water depths less than 100?m, being thickest off the mouth of channels carved into the modern insular shelf, from which most of the sediment issues. Vibracore samples contain various amounts of sediment of similar size to the sand on Oahu beaches, with the most compatible prospects located off Makaha, Haleiwa, and Camp Erdman, and the least compatible ones located in Kailua Bay. Laboratory tests show a positive correlation of abrasion with Halimeda content: samples from Kailua Bay suffered high amounts of attrition, but others were comparable to tested beach samples. The common gray color of the offshore sediment, aesthetically undesirable for sand on popular tourist beaches, was diminished in the laboratory by soaking in heated hydrogen peroxide. 相似文献
20.