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1.
The measured wave elevation and the corresponding two horizontal velocity components of in-line and transverse directions at eight different locations across a bar in a groin field off the East Frisian Island off Norderney at the North Sea Coast have been analysed. The variation of the wave and the velocities spectra within the groin field is reported.The waves and their kinematics are seldom linear in nearshore waters. In this paper, the results obtained through an attempt to study the asymmetries in the wave elevation and the in-line velocity time histories are reported. The probability density of the asymmetries are drawn along with theoretical Rayleigh and Weibull distributions. The variation of the different asymmetry factors within the groin field is discussed. 相似文献
2.
This paper presents soft computing approach for estimation of missing wave heights at a particular location on a real-time basis using wave heights at other locations. Six such buoy networks are developed in Eastern Gulf of Mexico using soft computing techniques of Artificial Neural Networks (ANN) and Genetic Programming (GP). Wave heights at five stations are used to estimate wave height at the sixth station. Though ANN is now an established tool in time series analysis, use of GP in the field of time series forecasting/analysis particularly in the area of Ocean Engineering is relatively new and needs to be explored further. Both ANN and GP approach perform well in terms of accuracy of estimation as evident from values of various statistical parameters employed. The GP models work better in case of extreme events. Results of both approaches are also compared with the performance of large-scale continuous wave modeling/forecasting system WAVEWATCH III. The models are also applied on real time basis for 3 months in the year 2007. A software is developed using evolved GP codes (C++) as back end with Visual Basic as the Front End tool for real-time application of wave estimation model. 相似文献
3.
The directionality of waves inside a groin field near the German coastal zone of the island of Norderney is studied in the frequency domain. The maximum entropy method is adopted to estimate the directional spreading function. The various characteristics of the directional distribution of waves have been presented for the locations both inside and outside the groin field. The variation of directional spreading with depth and the importance of study of directional waves in coastal regions are discussed. 相似文献
4.
Owing to the spatial averaging involved in satellite sensing, use of observations so collected is often restricted to offshore regions. This paper discusses a technique to obtain significant wave heights at a specified coastal site from their values gathered by a satellite at deeper offshore locations. The technique is based on the approach of Artificial Neural Network (ANN) of Radial Basis Function (RBF) and Feed-forward Back-propagation (FFBP) type. The satellite-sensed data of significant wave height; average wave period and the wind speed were given as input to the network in order to obtain significant wave heights at a coastal site situated along the west coast of India. Qualitative as well as quantitative comparison of the network output with target observations showed usefulness of the selected networks in such an application vis-à-vis simpler techniques like statistical regression. The basic FFBP network predicted the higher waves more correctly although such a network was less attractive from the point of overall accuracy. Unlike satellite observations collection of buoy data is costly and hence, it is generally resorted to fewer locations and for a smaller period of time. As shown in this study the network can be trained with samples of buoy data and can be further used for routine wave forecasting at coastal locations based on more permanent flow of satellite observations. 相似文献
5.
《Ocean Engineering》1999,26(2):161-188
The directionality of waves inside a groin field near the German coastal zone of the island of Norderney is studied in the frequency domain. The maximum entropy method is adopted to estimate the directional spreading function. The various characteristics of the directional distribution of waves have been presented for the locations both inside and outside the groin field. The variation of directional spreading with depth and the importance of study of directional waves in coastal regions are discussed. 相似文献
6.
Studies on the possible effects of a detached breakwater on the characteristics of the wavefield are carried out experimentally.A serpentine wave generator is used to generate both uni- andmulti-directional waves.Characteristics of the wave fields analyzed here include the wave fielddirectionality,and the probability distributions of surface elevations and of the wave heights.Owing to thepresence of the breakwater,waves outside the harbour are found to be reflected with,however,concen-trated energy within the harbour entrance.In general,wave heights can be approximated with a Rayleighdistribution,with occasional deviations from the theory.This occurs more frequently for waves with high-er peak frequency values than for those with lower values both for uni-and multi-directional waves.Sur-face elevations can be approximated with the Gaussian model.although the Edgeworth's form of the typeA Gram-Charlier series expansions would yield better fits.Wave directionality is found to have nodiscernible effects on 相似文献
7.
基于1987年和1988年夏季在古镇口港直立堤前的实测资料,对波浪和波压力连续记录进行了统计分析和谱估计,研究了在堤前海浪不发生破碎条件下,堤前波浪和堤面不同高程上压力波的波面高度概率分布、堤前波浪波高和周期与波压力幅度和周期的概率分布特征、入射波行近提前过程中的谱变化及堤面不同高程上压力谱的变化特征。主要结果总结在本文最后一节。 相似文献
8.
阐述以实测或拟合海浪谱为靶谱，用等能量分割法作波面数值模拟，从而利用模拟波面统计分析波高（Ｈ）－周期（Ｔ）联合分布。对波候的Ｈ－Ｔ联合分布、长时段海浪连续记录的Ｈ－Ｔ联合分布以及风浪、涌浪和混合浪的Ｈ－Ｔ联合分布进行了讨论。结果表明，只要已知特征波高和周期，就可反演出模拟波面，进而估测Ｈ－Ｔ联合分布情况，这对了解与各种特征波高对应的周期问题及在海洋工程应用上有一定的参考意义。 相似文献
9.
《Coastal Engineering》2006,53(5-6):419-439
The flow on a plane beach with a random, directionally spread wave field was simulated with a Boussinesq model. The random wave spectra were directionally symmetric with their central direction perpendicular to the beach, so no constant longshore current was generated. Variable wave-averaged currents were generated because of the spatially variable wave field, and sometimes formed offshore directed rip currents that appear in variable longshore locations. The rip currents are associated with a vortex pair which is generated within the surfzone and subsequently propagates offshore. Analysis of the vorticity balance show that the main vorticity input occurs within the inner surfzone. Three different beach slopes and four different wave spectra are simulated. The frequency, duration, and intensity of the transient rips depend on both the beach slope and the incident wave spectra. The results have important engineering implications for the transport of material in the nearshore zone, in particular on longshore uniform beaches. 相似文献
10.
Quantifying uncertainty in extreme values of design parameters with resampling techniques 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
In this paper, a methodology for the selection of statistical models for describing the extreme wave heights on the basis of resampling techniques is presented. Two such techniques are evaluated: the jackknife and the bootstrap. The methods are applied to two high-quality datasets of wave measurements in the Mediterranean and one from the East Coast of the USA. The robustness of the estimates of the extreme values of wave heights at return periods important for coastal engineering design is explored further. In particular, we demonstrate how an ensemble error norm can be used to select the most appropriate extreme probability model from a choice of cumulative distribution functions (CDFs). This error norm is based on the mean error norm of the optimised CDF for each resampled (replicate) data series. The resampling approach is also used to present confidence intervals of the CDF parameters. We provide a brief discussion of the sensitivity of these parameters and the suitability of each model in terms of uncertainty with resampling techniques. The advantages of resampling are outlined, and the superiority of the bootstrap over the jackknife in quantifying the uncertainty of extreme quantiles is demonstrated for these records. 相似文献
11.
The morphology and mobility of bedforms within a sand wave field having a water depth of 30 to 40 m have been studied by side-scan sonar surveys at different tidal stages and under various wave climates. Large sand waves with heights of 4 to 7 m retained their orientation throughout the survey period, Small sand waves with heights less than 2 to 3 m changed their height over a tidal cycle and their location (relative to larger sand waves) between surveys. The maximum change appeared to be related to ebb current acceleration. Megaripple wavelengths were reduced under surface wave action. 相似文献
12.
围填海工程对渤海湾风浪场的影响 总被引：4，自引：0，他引：4
为了深入了解围填海工程对波浪场特别是风浪场的影响,针对10 a 围填海工程对渤海湾地形岸线的改变,将 SWAN(Simulating Waves Nearshore)海浪数值模式应用到渤海湾,讨论了人类大工程对渤海湾风浪场的影响.采用欧洲气象中心每天4次的风场资料作为驱动,模拟渤海湾2000年和2010年的风浪场,着重分析岸线变化显著的3个港口工程(曹妃甸、天津港和黄骅港)附近海域的波浪要素变化.研究结果表明,工程建筑物存在后,有效波高呈减小趋势,港池和潮汐通道内的有效波高减小幅度较大.港口地理位置和海底地形也与岸线变化共同影响着港口附近海域的波浪场分布.围填海工程对波浪有效波高及周期影响的程度不大,有效波高减小值在0.2 m 以下,周期几乎不变. 相似文献
13.
Global sea surface wind field data derived from NCEP reanalysis were used in driving a SWAN wave model to reconstruct historical wave records from 1948 to 2008. The reconstructed wave data were compared and verified by the observation of the data buoys of the Central Weather Bureau and the Water Resources Agency, Taiwan, and the National Data Buoy Center/National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, United States. Over the past six decades, the wave climate in Taiwan waters has undergone considerable changes. The annual mean significant wave heights have reduced an average of 0.31 cm/year. Winter wave heights have gradually dropped 0.86 cm/year, which are related to the weakening of winter monsoons. Regarding the inter-annual wave climate variation, the influence of El Niño/southern oscillation was substantial; the wave heights increased in La Niña years and decreased in El Niño years. In the past 60 years, extreme wave events have been concentrated in two periods: 1967–1974 and 2000–2008. More severe extreme wave events occurred in the latter compared with the former, and all were induced by typhoons. A clear trend, in which the summer (winter) extreme wave events have increased (decreased) gradually, has been identified. The 1980s was the transition period. After the transition period, the annual occurrence of extreme wave events caused by typhoons exceeded those caused by an intense outbreak of winter cold surges, although the total number of the annual extreme wave events has not changed substantially. 相似文献
14.
考虑波浪的浅水变化、折射、绕射、反射和破碎等现象的影响,以文氏谱作为输入谱,建立了浅水区域随机波浪传播变形的改进数值模型。对日照帆船港港域波高的数值计算结果表明:在没有越浪的情况下,计算值与物理模型试验观测值吻合。改进的数值模型成为求解港口水域波高的1种有效方法。 相似文献
15.
The paper discusses an artificial neural network (ANN) approach to project information on wind speed and waves collected by the TOPEX satellite at deeper locations to a specified coastal site. The observations of significant wave heights, average wave period and wind speed at a number of locations over a satellite track parallel to a coastline are used to estimate corresponding values of these three parameters at the coastal site of interest. A combined network involving an input and output of all the three parameters, viz., wave height, period and wind speed instead of separate networks for each one of these variables was found to be necessary in order to train the network with sufficient flexibility. It was also found that network training based on statistical homogeneity of data sets is essential to obtain accurate results. The problem of modeling wind speeds that are always associated with very high variations in their magnitudes was tackled in this study by imparting training in an innovated manner. 相似文献
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17.
通过物理模型实验给出了沙坝海岸丁坝附近交叉波浪场形成的裂流沿裂流槽水深平均速度剖面中心线的垂向分布,研究了各个测量断面上横向速度、纵向速度以及速度矢量沿水深的分布特征。研究分析了沿岸方向驻波节腹点和裂流槽相对位置的影响以及规则波和不规则波结果的差异,得到了裂流速度时均值和时变值的结果。结果表明,纵向速度在不同的时间段上的平均值基本是相同的,但横向速度不是这样,其在不同时间段上的平均值在大小和正负号上都可能存在较大差别,这导致整个速度矢量在不同时间段上也表现出不同的三维分布特征。但这些不同的分布也存在着共同点,即沿水深速度矢量大部分存在着向丁坝方向偏转,这反映了丁坝存在的影响。特别是,纵向速度沿水深分布都可以采用统一的幂函数表达。 相似文献
18.
A methodology is proposed for efficient processing of sea wave field data via compressive sensing (CS), and joint time-frequency analysis via harmonic wavelets (HWs) based evolutionary power spectrum (EPS) estimation. In this regard, it is possible to record and store relatively long wave data sequences, whereas the commonly adopted in-practice assumption of stationary data is abandoned. Currently, most wave records are measured by buoys, which acquire data for a time interval representative of stationary time series. Next, following a Fourier transform processing, only few spectral parameters are stored. Thus, detailed information about localized-in-time phenomena are completely lost. Herein, it is shown that CS can be adopted for efficiently compressing and reconstructing wave data, while retaining localized information. For this purpose, CS is used in conjunction with a HW basis for processing long time series. In particular, storage capacity demands are drastically decreased as only the HW coefficients need to be saved. These are determined from a randomly-sampled record by invoking a L1/2 norm minimization procedure. The resulting reconstructed record, being longer than conventional wave time series, can no longer be regarded as stationary; thus, a HW based EPS estimate is employed for describing the joint time-frequency features of the record. Finally, the reliability of the methodology is assessed by analyzing wave field data measured at the Natural Ocean Engineering Laboratory (NOEL) of Reggio Calabria. Specifically, comparisons between original and reconstructed records demonstrate a satisfactory agreement regarding the time-histories, and the estimated EPS and relevant statistical quantities, even for up to 60% missing/removed data. 相似文献
19.
Long (>30 years) monthly records of relative sea-level heights from tide gauges in the Baltic sea are analyzed. Time series clustering based on forecast densities is applied in order to describe regional sea-level variability in the Baltic Sea in terms of future relative heights. The tide gauge records are clustered on the basis of forecasts at 3-month and 6-month horizons. For the 3-month horizon, the results of the cluster analysis show a fairly spatial coherency in terms of grouping together locations from the same sub-basin, with the northern records in the Bothnian Sea and Gulf of Finland clustering together, followed by the tide gauges in the Baltic Proper and lastly the southernmost stations in the western Baltic. For the 6-month horizon, the results show a higher degree of homogeneity between different locations, but a clear separation between the stations at the Baltic entrance and the tide gauges inside the Baltic basin. Moreover, when considering detrended records, reflecting mainly the seasonal cycle, the clustering results are more homogeneous and suggest a distinct response of coastal sea-level in spring and in summer. 相似文献
20.
The paper discusses the seabed shear stresses under random waves, and compares model predictions with results from field measurements near the seabed in the Strait of Juan de Fuca, Washington State, and at EDDA, North Sea. The model predictions as well as the interpretation of data are based on three different representative measures of random wave velocities within 12 minute records: root-mean-square, significant and maximum values. From the two locations the best agreement is found for the Strait of Juan de Fuca data regardless of the random velocity measure used. This agreement is attributed to the absence of suspended sediment at this location. 相似文献