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1.
Overwash vulnerability assessment based on long-term washover evolution   总被引：1，自引：1，他引：0  
An integrated methodology for evaluation of overwash vulnerability is developed with respect to the historical washover evolution of a barrier island system. Three different aspects of overwash are addressed in the vulnerability indices developed: overwashed shoreline ratio, maximum overwash intrusion recurrence, and complete barrier overwash. The indices were applied to the barriers in the Ria Formosa system in Southern Portugal using an aerial photography catalogue covering the period 1947–2001. Historical trends of washover evolution were observed to be different between the barriers analysed, but generally, there was a decrease in washover number and dimensions throughout the analysed period. The final overwash diagnostic obtained allowed an integrated overwash vulnerability rating to be defined for each barrier, with vulnerabilities ranging from low to extreme. The methodology has produced results that may assist coastal managers with information concerning barrier island system overwash hazard, define the temporal and geographical distributions of overwash, and provide indications as to where overwash is most likely to occur in the future.  相似文献   

2.
Storm response along the transgressive Chandeleur barrier-island arc southeast of the Mississippi delta plain is variable because of local differences in sediment supply, shoreline orientation and barrier morphology. A study of the morphological impact of Hurricane Frederic (1979) affirmed that tropical storms are the primary agents causing erosion and migration of this barrier arc.Frederic's greatest impact was in the duneless southern Chandeleurs, where sheet-flow overwash caused flattening of the barrier profile, destruction of a strip of marsh 50–100 m wide, and shoreline retreat of approximately 30 m. In contrast, overwash in the northern Chandeleurs was confined between dunes in channels established by previous storms. This channelized overwash breached the northern Chandeleur barriers in nineteen places. As Frederic passed, return flow through these channels transported overwashed sediment back to the nearshore zone. These ebb deposits were a source for longshore drift sediments, which quickly sealed storm channels, reestablishing a coherent northern Chandeleur barrier arc.These storm response patterns may help explain long-term changes in barrier morphology. During an 84-yr period (1885–1969) the southern Chandeleurs decreased 41 % in area, with an average retreat rate of 9.1 m yr?1, compared to a 15% increase in area and an average shoreline retreat rate of 7.2 m yr?1 for the northern Chandeleurs.  相似文献   

3.
The nearshore parameters, viz., wave runup, wave setup, and wave energy have been estimated during storm and normal conditions of SW monsoon (June–September) and NE monsoon (November–February) by empirical parameterization along Visakhapatnam coast. These results were compared with the field observations during three storms of SW monsoon season in the year 2007. The higher nearshore wave energies were observed at R.K. Beach, Jodugullapalem beach, and Sagarnagar beach during both the seasons. During storm events, the higher wave energies associated with higher wave runups cause severe erosion along the wave convergence zones. The storm wave runups (SWRUs) were higher at R.K. Beach, Palm beach, Jodugullapalem beach, and Sagarnagar Beach. The yearly low wave energy was observed at Lawson’s Bay with lowest wave runup, considered as safest zone. R.K. Beach, Palm beach, and Jodugullapalem beach are identified as vulnerable zones of wave attack. It is noteworthy that in addition to wave energies, wave runups and wave setups also play a vital role in endangering the coast.  相似文献   

4.
We present here the first paleotempestology record from Wassaw Island on the Georgia Bight, located in the south Atlantic coast of the United States. In the historical period, the Georgia Bight has experienced less frequent hits by hurricanes than other locations along the US Gulf and Atlantic coasts. The 1900‐year record inferred from the overwash sand layers from a back‐barrier marsh on Wassaw Island suggests that the island was directly struck by major storms on nine occasions during this interval. The Wassaw Island record shows alternating regimes, with periods of increased activity from >2000 a BP until ～1100 a BP, and ～100 a BP until the present, sandwiching a quiet period from ～1100 to 250 a BP. Storm deposits from the most recent active period are perhaps amalgamated, indicating that site‐specific conditions may result in event undercounting and suggests that the relative thickness of sand layers in the sedimentary record is not always indicative of hurricane strength. Copyright © 2011 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

5.
Barrier islands are found around the world and are important environmentally and economically. With accelerated sea level rise and relentless storms, their evolution is complex but important to understand, especially from a coastal planning and managing perspective. In this study, shoreline change estimates from aerial photography (1949, 1974, 2006), sedimentological and stratigraphic investigation, and analysis of geomorphic character were used to evaluate the hurricane response and decadal evolution of Ocracoke Island, NC. Between 1949 and 2006, the majority (>?65% of transects) of the entire island eroded at an average rate of ??0.54 m/year. Cross-island width decreased by as much as 40% (180 m) over the period. Hurricane Isabel (2003) represented up to 23% of the long-term net change in some regions of the island. The rate of narrowing of Ocracoke Island appears to have increased in the last half century and is due to a combination of natural and anthropogenic factors. Isabel overwashed a total of 9% of the island based on aerial photographic analysis with an average deposit thickness of 0.24 m based on trench investigation. Assessment with the Storm Impact Scale showed a direct relationship between overwash and the pre-existing dune conditions, which had been affected by long-term erosion. Sedimentological signatures interpreted from cores show up to four distinct stacked overwash deposits, potentially dating back as far as 1944. This multi-pronged analysis shows the complexity of barrier island evolution and highlights the necessity to examine and model a system response in four dimensions (i.e., spatially and with time).  相似文献   

6.
Ferreira  Óscar  Kupfer  Sunna  Costas  Susana 《Natural Hazards》2021,109(3):2221-2239

Overwash is one of the most prominent hazards affecting coastal zones, and the associated consequences are expected to increase because of both sea-level rise and intensification of coastal occupation. This study used a 23-year data set of wave heights and tide-surge levels to define return periods of overwash potential for current and future sea-level conditions, namely 2055 and 2100, at two sites from South Portugal. A relevant intensification of both frequency and magnitude of the overwash is expected to occur by mid-century if adaptation measures are not taken and further aggravated by 2100. Current overwash levels with a return period of 100-years can reach a return period lower than 20-years by 2055 and 10-years by 2100. However, these values are rather variable from site to site, highlighting the urgency to develop detailed local studies to identify climate change impacts along coastal sectors, based on validated equations and long-term time series. These could be easily carried by replicating and adapting the here proposed methodology to sandy coasts worldwide. Understating the impact that climate change (namely sea-level rise) may have at the local level is key to contribute to effective management plans that include adaptation measures to minimize risks associated with coastal floods.

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7.
《Sedimentology》2018,65(4):1170-1212
Barrier‐island system evolution is controlled by internal and external forcing mechanisms, and temporal changes in these mechanisms may be recorded in the sedimentary architecture. However, the precise role of individual forcing mechanisms is rarely well understood due to limited chronological control. This study investigates the relative role of forcing conditions, such as antecedent topography, sea‐level rise, sediment supply, storms and climate changes, on the evolution of a Holocene wave‐dominated barrier‐island system. This article presents temporal reconstruction of the depositional history of the barrier‐island system of Rømø in the Wadden Sea in unprecedented detail, based on ground‐penetrating radar profiles, sediment cores, high‐resolution dating and palynological investigations, and shows that ca 8000 years ago the barrier island formed on a Pleistocene topographic high. During the initial phase of barrier evolution, the long‐term sea‐level rise was relatively rapid (ca 9 mm year−1) and the barrier was narrow and frequently overwashed. Sediment supply kept pace with sea‐level rise, and the barrier‐island system mainly aggraded through the deposition of a ca 7 m thick stack of overwash fans. Aggradation continued for ca 1700 years until sea‐level rise had decreased to <2 mm year−1. In the last ca 6000 years, the barrier prograded 4 to 5 km through deposition of a 10 to 15 m thick beach and shoreface unit, despite a long‐term sea‐level rise of 1 to 2 mm year−1. The long‐term progradation was, however, interrupted by a transgression between 4000 years and 1700 years ago. These results demonstrate that the large‐scale morphology of the Danish Wadden Sea shoreline influences the longshore sediment transport flux and the millennial‐scale dispersal of sediment along the shoreline. On decadal to centennial timescales, major storms induced intense beach and shoreface erosion followed by rapid recovery and progradation which resulted in a highly punctuated beach and shoreface record. Major storms contributed towards a positive sediment budget, and the sustained surplus of sediment was, and still is, instrumental in maintaining the aggradational–progradational state of the barrier island.  相似文献   

8.
The purpose of this investigation was to examine storm surge and wave reduction benefits of different environmental restoration features (marsh restoration and barrier island changes), as well as the impact of future wetland degradation on local surge and wave conditions. Storm surge simulations of two representative hurricanes were performed using the ADCIRC storm surge model with the inclusion of radiation stress gradients from the STWAVE nearshore wave model. Coupled model simulations were made for a number of landscape configurations that involved both restored and degraded wetland features. The impact of barrier island condition on hurricane surge and waves was also evaluated. Effects of landscape features were represented by changes in elevation and frictional resistance. Restoration and degradation of marsh resulted in decreases (for restoration cases) and increases (for degradation cases) in both surge and waves. The magnitude of change was correlated with the magnitude of the horizontal extent and elevation changes in the marsh. In general, the wave change patterns are consistent with the water level changes. Deflation of the Chandeleur Islands (barrier island chain) resulted in slightly increased surge. Results suggest that coastal marsh does have surge and wave reduction potential. Results also indicate that the impact of the landscape features is amplified in areas where there are levee “pockets.” Barrier islands and coastal ridges reduce wave heights, even if in a degraded condition and thus can reduce wave energy in wetland areas, protecting them from erosion.  相似文献   

9.
Tsunamis have proven to represent a significant hazard around the globe and there is increased awareness about their occurrence. The Pacific coast in southern México is no exception, because there is firm evidence of the effects of past large tsunamis. Here we present results from computer-aided modeling of the March 28, 1787-“San Sixto” earthquake and tsunami, and focus on the regions of Acapulco, Corralero, Jamiltepec, and Tehuantepec, located along the Guerrero-Oaxaca coast. The theoretical waveforms suggest wave heights in excess of 4 m and 18 m at specific locations in Acapulco and Corralero, respectively, and wave heights of at least 2 m at locations in Jamiltepec and Tehuantepec. From our modeling results and based on historical documents and the topography of the area, we conclude that these wave heights would have been sufficient to cause inundations that in the case of Acapulco were restricted to several meters inland, but in other areas like Corralero reached at least 6 km inland. Our results are consistent with published and unpublished damage reports that attest to the hazards associated with great earthquakes and tsunamis along the subduction zone in Mexico  相似文献   

10.
A quantitative analysis of historical aerial photographs and maps coupled with detailed field surveys provided the data necessary to assess the importance of overwash processes and vegetative recovery on Nauset Spit, Cape Cod, Massachusetts Development of all plant communities and physiographic features is extremely rapid on the spit. Dunes are evident from aerial photographic analysis in as little as three years after overwash; salt marshes are apparent in only ten years. Classical ecological succession does not appear to occur on Nauset Spit, since environments are periodically altered by overwash processes. Most dominant species on the barrier can grow in bare sandy substrate. Migration of the Nauset Spit, system proceeds by a cyclic series of events, involving inlet dynamics, overwash processes, and dune building  相似文献   

11.
Field measurements of the vertical structure of near-bed suspended sediment concentrations were obtained from arrays of fast response optical backscatter suspended solids sensors to examine the time-dependent response of sediment resuspension to waves and currents and the constraints imposed by bedforms. Data were recorded from both a nonbarred, marine shoreface and a barred lacustrine shoreface, under both shoaling and breaking waves (significant heights of 0·25–1·50m; peak periods of 3 and 8 s) and in water depths of 0·5–5·0 m. Sediment concentrations are positively correlated with increasing elevation above the bed, but lagged in time. The time lag varies directly with separation distance between measurement locations and inversely with the horizontal component of the near-bed oscillatory velocity. Both the presence of wave groups and the settling velocities of the sediment particules in suspension influence the temporal changes in concentration at a given elevation. Sediment concentrations appear to respond more slowly to the incident wind-wave forcing with distance away from the bed as a result of two factors: (1) the sequential increase in concentration induced by a succession of large waves in a group; and (ii) the relative increase in finer sediments with smaller settling velocities. Bedforms interact with the near-bed horizontal currents to impose a distinct constraint upon the timing of suspension events relative to the phase of the fluid motion, and, therefore, the vertical structure of the suspended sediment concentration at a range of time scales. The near-bed concentrations appear to be strongly dependent upon the vertical convection of sediment associated with the ejection from the wave boundary layer of separation vortices generated in the lee of ripple crests. Concentration gradients in the presence of vortex ripples are large, as are the correlation between concentrations measured at different elevations within the fluid.  相似文献   

12.
Waters from the Atlantic Ocean washed southward across parts of Anegada, east-northeast of Puerto Rico, during a singular event a few centuries ago. The overwash, after crossing a fringing coral reef and 1.5?km of shallow subtidal flats, cut dozens of breaches through sandy beach ridges, deposited a sheet of sand and shell capped with lime mud, and created inland fields of cobbles and boulders. Most of the breaches extend tens to hundreds of meters perpendicular to a 2-km stretch of Anegada??s windward shore. Remnants of the breached ridges stand 3?m above modern sea level, and ridges seaward of the breaches rise 2.2?C3.0?m high. The overwash probably exceeded those heights when cutting the breaches by overtopping and incision of the beach ridges. Much of the sand-and-shell sheet contains pink bioclastic sand that resembles, in grain size and composition, the sand of the breached ridges. This sand extends as much as 1.5?km to the south of the breached ridges. It tapers southward from a maximum thickness of 40?cm, decreases in estimated mean grain size from medium sand to very fine sand, and contains mud laminae in the south. The sand-and-shell sheet also contains mollusks??cerithid gastropods and the bivalve Anomalocardia??and angular limestone granules and pebbles. The mollusk shells and the lime-mud cap were probably derived from a marine pond that occupied much of Anegada??s interior at the time of overwash. The boulders and cobbles, nearly all composed of limestone, form fields that extend many tens of meters generally southward from limestone outcrops as much as 0.8?km from the nearest shore. Soon after the inferred overwash, the marine pond was replaced by hypersaline ponds that produce microbial mats and evaporite crusts. This environmental change, which has yet to be reversed, required restriction of a former inlet or inlets, the location of which was probably on the island??s south (lee) side. The inferred overwash may have caused restriction directly by washing sand into former inlets, or indirectly by reducing the tidal prism or supplying sand to post-overwash currents and waves. The overwash happened after A.D. 1650 if coeval with radiocarbon-dated leaves in the mud cap, and it probably happened before human settlement in the last decades of the 1700s. A prior overwash event is implied by an inland set of breaches. Hypothetically, the overwash in 1650?C1800 resulted from the Antilles tsunami of 1690, the transatlantic Lisbon tsunami of 1755, a local tsunami not previously documented, or a storm whose effects exceeded those of Hurricane Donna, which was probably at category 3 as its eye passed 15?km to Anegada??s south in 1960.  相似文献   

13.
The spectral characteristics of shallow water waves were studied at two locations along the eastern Arabian Sea during 2011. Wave spectra were single-peaked from June to October and predominantly double-peaked during the rest of the year. Even though both locations were subjected to open sea conditions, the percentage of single-peaked spectra was large (63 %) in the southern location compared to a location 350 km north (46 %), because of variation in local winds. Throughout the year, the double-peaked spectra were mostly swell dominated in the southern location. In the northern location, the double-peaked spectra during January to May and December were sea dominated due to the strong local winds blowing from north-west. For the double-peaked wave spectra, the average difference between the spectral peaks was 0.11 Hz, and the average ratio of the spectral energy density at the two peaks was 0.5. Significant wave heights up to 4.2 m and a maximum wave height of 7 m were observed during the south-west monsoon period. Fifty per cent of the waves recorded had spectral peak wave periods between 6 and 12 s. The narrowest directional spectra were found for waves with 10–12-s peak wave periods. Inverse wave age values were biased towards lower values with peaks in the range of 0.2–0.6, indicating a swell-driven wave regime along the eastern Arabian Sea.  相似文献   

14.
Regional-scale washover deposits along the Florida Gulf and Atlantic coasts induced by multiple hurricanes in 2004 and 2005 were studied through coring, trenching, ground-penetrating radar imaging, aerial photography, and prestorm and poststorm beach-profile surveys. Erosional and depositional characteristics in different barrier-island sub-environments, including dune field, interior wetland and back-barrier bay were examined. Over the eroded dune fields, the washover deposits are characterized by an extensive horizontal basal erosional surface truncating the old dune deposits and horizontal to slightly landward-dipping stratification. Over the marshes in the barrier-island interior, the washover deposits are characterized by steep tabular bedding, with no erosion at the bottom. Overwash into the back-barrier bay produced the thickest deposits characterized by steep, prograding sigmoidal bedding. No significant erosional feature was observed at the bottom. Washover deposits within the dense interior mangrove swamp demonstrate both normal and reversed graded bedding. The washover deposits caused by hurricanes Frances (2004) and Jeanne (2004) along the southern Florida Atlantic coast barrier islands are substantially different from those along the northern Florida barrier islands caused by Ivan (2004) and Dennis (2005) in terms of regional extension, erosional features and sedimentary structures. These differences are controlled by different overall barrier-island morphology, vegetation type and density, and sediment properties. The homogeneity of sediment along the northern Florida coast makes distinguishing between washover deposits from Ivan and Dennis difficult. In contrast, along the Atlantic coast barrier islands, the two overwash events, as demonstrated by two phases of graded bedding of the bimodal sediments, are easily distinguishable.  相似文献   

15.
Washover sand bodies commonly develop along microtidal coastlines in beach/barrier island or spit settings. Wave runup, usually in conjunction with an abnormally high water level, may overtop the most landward berm of the beach and the foredune crest, if one exists, to produce overwash and subsequent runoff across the more landward subaerial surface. Two main elements of the resulting deposit are the washover fan and runoff channel. Newly formed, small-scale washover deposits were examined along the Outer Banks, North Carolina, near Pt Mugu, California, and at Presque Isle (Lake Erie), Pennsylvania. The fans were formed in response to unidirectional landward transport, and the runoff channels in response to unidirectional flow usually in a landward direction, but sometimes in shore-parallel then seaward direction. Where overwash carried across the fan surface and entered a pond or lagoon, a small-scale delta (microdelta) developed. In this case, the washover fan consisted of two subfacies, the wetted, but ‘subaerial’ part of the fan and the subaqueous washover delta. Flow associated with the development of the fan and runoff channel produced distinctive sets of bedforms and internal stratification. High velocity discontinuous surges moving across the fan surface resulted in the development of a plane bed and subhorizontal to low-angle (landward dipping) planar stratification which comprised the major part of the fan. Similarly, rhomboid forms were produced by high velocity sheet flow across the fan surface. Where flow carried into a standing body of water, delta-type foreset strata developed. For this case, the lateral structural sequence was subhorizontal, planar stratification merging landward into landward dipping, delta (tabular) foreset strata. In the runoff setting, where flow became channelized and continuous, both upper-flow and lower-flow regime currents were typical. Upper-flow regime bedforms included antidunes, standing waves, and plane beds. The most commonly observed lower-flow regime bedforms included microdelta-like bars, low-amplitude bars, linguoid ripples, and sinuous-crested current ripple trains. The sets of sedimentary structures comprising modern washover sand bodies provide criteria for the identification of similar deposits in ancient sediments and for more specific interpretation of the environment.  相似文献   

16.
Marine overwash from the north a few centuries ago transported hundreds of angular cobbles and boulders tens to hundreds of meters southward from limestone outcrops in the interior of Anegada, 140?km east?Cnortheast of Puerto Rico. We examined two of several cobble and boulder fields as part of an effort to interpret whether the overwash resulted from a tsunami or a storm in a location where both events are known to occur. One of the cobble and boulder field extends 200?m southward from limestone outcrops that are 300?m inland from the island??s north shore. The other field extends 100?m southward from a limestone knoll located 800?m from the nearest shore. In the two fields, we measured the size, orientation, and spatial distribution of a total of 161 clasts and determined their stratigraphic positions with respect to an overwash sand and shell sheet deposit. In both fields, we found the spacing between clasts increased southward and that clast long-axis orientations are consistent with a transport trending north?Csouth. Almost half the clasts are partially buried in a landward thinning and fining overwash sand and none were found embedded in the shelly mud of a pre-overwash marine pond. The two cobble and boulder fields resemble modern tsunami deposits in which dispersed clasts extend inland as a single layer. The fields contrast with coarse clast storm deposits that often form wedge-shaped shore-parallel ridges. These comparisons suggest that the overwash resulted from a tsunami and not from a storm.  相似文献   

17.
Hurricanes 2004: An overview of their characteristics and coastal change   总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2  
Four hurricanes battered the state of Florida during 2004, the most affecting any state since Texas endured four in 1884. Each of the storms changed the coast differently. Average shoreline change within the right front quadrant of hurricane force winds varied from 1 m of shoreline advance to 20 m of retreat, whereas average sand volume change varied from 11 to 66 m3 m−1 of net loss (erosion). These changes did not scale simply with hurricane intensity as described by the Saffir-Simpson Hurricane Scale. The strongest storm of the season, category 4 Hurricane Charley, had the least shoreline retreat. This was likely because of other factors like the storm's rapid forward speed and small size that generated a lower storm surge than expected. Two of the storms, Hurricanes Frances and Jeanne, affected nearly the same area on the Florida east coast just 3 wk apart. The first storm, Frances, although weaker than the second, caused greater shoreline retreat and sand volume erosion. As a consequence, Hurricane Frances may have stripped away protective beach and exposed dunes to direct wave attack during Jeanne, although there was significant dune erosion during both storms. The maximum shoreline change for all four hurricanes occurred during Ivan on the coasts of eastern Alabama and the Florida Panhandle. The net volume change across a barrier island within the Ivan impact zone approached zero because of massive overwash that approximately balanced erosion of the beach. These data from the 2004 hurricane season will prove useful in developing new ways to scale and predict coastal-change effects during hurricanes.  相似文献   

18.
Auto-correlation analysis of wave heights in the Bay of Bengal   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  
Time series observations of significant wave heights in the Bay of Bengal were subjected to auto-correlation analysis to determine temporal variability scale. The analysis indicates an exponential fall of auto-correlation in the first few hours with a decorrelation time scale of about six hours. A similar figure was found earlier for ocean surface winds. The nature of variation of auto-correlation with time lags was also found to be similar for winds and wave heights  相似文献   

19.
The Jeddah coast lies in the central eastern Red Sea, which is characterized by the predominant northwest winds and the associated wind waves throughout the year. A detailed investigation on the spectral wave characteristics in the nearshore regions of the Jeddah coast has not been carried out yet, primarily due to the lack of data. In the present study, we have analyzed the available wave spectra measured at two nearshore locations along the Jeddah coast using wave gauges. The wave spectra were separated into wind sea and swell components using a frequency-based algorithm, and the integral wave parameters corresponding to each component were derived. Although the measurements were limited to the summer season, notable features such as the diurnal variability and the superimposition of wind seas and swells have been identified from the spectra. The superimposition is mainly due to the interaction of the young swells propagated from the northern Red Sea and the local breezes prevailing along the coast at certain periods in a diurnal cycle. Based on the wave speed calculations and the estimated time shifts between the wind and waves, the potential swell regions have been backtracked.  相似文献   

20.
Rates of shoreline change and overwash penetration distances were calculated for barrier islands along the Louisiana, Mississippi, and Alabama coasts with the orthogonal grid mapping system (OGMS). Average rates of shoreline change are exceptionally high in Louisiana, being of the order ?4.7 to ?7.4 m yr?1. Mississippi and Alabama recession rates are lower and range from ?2.0 to ?3.1 m yr?1 over the period of record. Erosion rates along the shorelines of these islands have remained relatively constant over the period of study with five exceptions in coastal Louisiana and the Chandeleur-Breton Islands Arc, and two exceptions along the Mississippi-Alabama barrier islands where they have accelerated. Mean overwash penetration is greatest along Dauphin Island, Alabama, and Cat Island, Mississippi: 207.6 and 197.9 m, respectively. The Chandeleur-Brenton Islands Arc range from 88.1 m at the central barrier to 180.4 along the flanks. The Mississippi islands range from 105.2 m on Ship Island to 200.5 m along central Horn Island. Mean overwash penetration along the Louisiana barriers is highly variable: 46.3 to 211.4 m.  相似文献   

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