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1.
Three to four cheniers are found in the coastal areas of the Bohai Sea and west Yellow Sea. They are formed in the sheltered low tidal flat coast with low to medium wave energy, large quantity of fine sediment supply and shells, and a coastal slope of 0.9–3.0 ‰. The Huanghe River played a major role in controlling the chenier development by either providing sediment supply or cutting off the supply through shifting of its course. Cheniers may be used to determine the coastal development and dynamic processes. 相似文献
2.
The Barcelona continental shelf is part of a 6–20 km wide canyon-bounded shelf located off the city of Barcelona (NE Spain). This study integrates newly acquired high-resolution single channel seismic reflection profiles and available lithological information of the Barcelona shelf to describe its late Quaternary architecture and the role of global glacio-eustatic fluctuations and local factors in its development. Four major sequence boundaries are identified throughout the seismic dataset. They are tentatively correlated with the four last 4th order (100–120 ka) high-amplitude late Quaternary glacio-eustatic lowstands. Most of the stratigraphic record is formed by falling stage systems tracts with forced-regressive deposits, which confers a general progradational vertical stacking pattern. Transgressive systems tracts are represented by continuous units confined directly off river sources and on previously eroded surfaces. Stillstand deposits are difficult to recognize in the available dataset. The uppermost seismic unit corresponds to the Holocene shore-parallel Besos and Llobregat joint prodelta affected by the prevailing south-westward circulation. The general architecture of the late Quaternary Barcelona shelf deposits is determined by global glacio-eustatic cycles. However, the lateral variability of the seismic units depends largely on local factors such as (i) the position of sediment sources (essentially the Llobregat River); (ii) differential subsidence and, especially, sediment compaction; (iii) erosive processes such as canyon incision, mass wasting or wave base dynamics; and (iv) underlying geomorphic restrictions. 相似文献
3.
The low chenier coast of northeastern of South America bears Holocene cheniers which are considered as useful features because they protect the coast against marine erosion as sites for human settlement, and the transportation network. The relationship between chenier formation and the morphology of the coast is striking. Most cheniers in Guyana are old features. It is believed that clusters of cheniers were formed when large quantities of sand were available during periods of dry climatic conditions. When fine particles were transported by the streams towards the sea during pluvial climates, chenier formation naturally decreased. A similar cycle of shorter duration based on the movements of mud shoals in the nearshore area of the continental shelf affects the coastal process, resulting in the formation or destruction of cheniers. On the Guyana coast chenier formation is not as active as on the Suriname coast. Much research is necessary to survey and protect these important features. 相似文献
4.
In various regions along the east and southeast coast of China and on the outer shelf of the East China Sea, series of cheniers have been found and studied. Their geomorphological and sedimentological features have been described and the main conditions for their formation established. The development of cheniers in China can be divided into three periods: 24,000-15,000 yrs B.P., 7000-5000 yrs B.P. and 5000 yrs B.P. onwards. These periods have been based on 14C datings of 80 shell samples. The chenier groups of the three periods are distributed throughout various geomorphological locations. Using the geomorphological locations of the cheniers in combination with their age of formation, the palaeopositions of the Chinese coastline in the various periods since 24,000 yrs B.P. are described. The history of the position of the east coast of China, including the features attesting to sealevel changes during this era, is briefly discussed. 相似文献
5.
CaCO 3 and total organic carbon concentrations, organic matter C/N and carbon isotope ratios, and sediment accumulation rates in late Quaternary sediments from DSDP Site 594 provide information about glacial–interglacial variations in the delivery of organic matter to the Chatham Rise offshore of southeastern New Zealand. Low C/N ratios and nearly constant organic δ 13C values of −23‰ indicate that marine production dominates organic matter supply in both glacial and interglacial times during oxygen isotope stages 1 through 6 (0–140 ka) and 17 through 19 (660–790 ka). Increased organic carbon mass accumulation rates in isotope stages 2, 4, 6, and 18 record enhanced marine productivity during glacial maxima. Excursions of organic δ 13C values to ca. −29‰ in portions of isotope stage 2 suggest that the local concentration of dissolved CO 2 was occasionally elevated during the last glacial maximum, probably as a result of short periods of lowered sea-surface temperature. Dilution of carbonates by clastic continental sediment generally increases at this location during glacial maxima, but enhanced delivery of land-derived organic matter does not accompany the increased accumulation of clastic sediments. 相似文献
6.
Santorini volcano has been the largest source of volcaniclastic sediment in the Eastern Mediterranean during the late Quaternary. A dozen cores from the Cretan Basin, south of Santorini, have sampled two megabeds that consist of gravity emplaced volcaniclastic sequences. The uppermost megabed U consists of a succession of five (U 5–U 1) base cut out turbiditic units. Lower megabed A is a single turbiditic event. Only the uppermost U 2 and U 1 turbidites are separated from the underlying beds by hemipelagic marls. The texture and composition of the U and A megabeds closely match the texture and composition of the fine, vitric ash of the “Minoan” deposits on Santorini islands, dating from about 3500 yr BP. These megabeds are therefore attributed to rapid accumulation of separate gravity flows fed by the “Minoan” eruption, except for the upper U 2 and U 1 turbidites deposited from subsequent gravity flows transporting eroded volcaniclastic sediments. With the exception of the margin south of Santorini, dozens of cores retrieved around the margins of the Cretan Basin have a continuous late Quaternary succession that shows no evidence for massive sediment remobilization into the deeper basin, including the passage of the “Minoan” tsunami. Extensive high-resolution 3.5 kHz records revealed the acoustic character, architecture and distribution of the U and A megabeds and four underlying late Quaternary volcanogenic megabeds in the Cretan Basin. The acoustic facies of megabeds are typical of megaturbidites and consist of an upper, transparent, lower velocity layer that corresponds to the fine-grained upper turbiditic silt and clay section and a lower, strongly reflective higher velocity section that corresponds to the lowest, coarser-grained base of the turbidite that is developed over a sharp erosional surface. Penetration of the high-resolution records reveals the existence of at least six megabeds. Correlation with core lithology and the physical properties of the various lithofacies, including down-core velocity profiles, has allowed us to determine the thickness and volumes of the upper four megabeds which are: U ≤ 9 m thick, volume 3.7 km3; A ≤ 25 m thick, volume 12.2 km3; B ≤ 22 m thick, volume 10.3 km3; C ≤ 15 m thick, volume 8 km3. These thick megabeds are the uppermost products of repeated explosive eruption of Santorini in the late Quaternary. Calculated sedimentation rates from and after the “Minoan” eruption are 9.4 m/1000 yr that rise to over 15.7 m/1000 yr if megabed B was also deposited during this eruption. 相似文献
7.
The Miami Terrace is a drowned early to middle Tertiary carbonate platform, the outer margin of which has been deeply incised by submarine erosion subsequent to deposition of the limestone terrace. This interpretation is based on the study of high-resolution seismic reflection profiles, rock dredge samples, observations from deep-diving submersibles, and correlation with drill-hole data. The karstic upper terrace (200–375 m) yields limestones and dolostones of early middle Miocene age that have shallow-shelf affinities. Truncated beds of an eastward-dipping deeper-water slope facies are exposed on the upper surface of the erosional lower terrace at 600–700 m. The upper and lower terraces are separated by a discontinuous ridge, probably a drowned Miocene, or post-Miocene bank margin complex. Both terraces and the ridge are capped by dense conglomeratic phosphorites and phosphatic limestones. Phosphorite nodules are more common on the lower terrace whereas the upper terrace yields large phosphorite slabs as well as shark's teeth and bones of marine mammals. Petrographic study of dredged and submersible-sampled rocks shows that two or more episodes of phosphatization took place intermittent with erosion, grain rounding, reworking and redeposition. Early stages of phosphatization appear to be selective, replacing the more unstable carbonate minerals first, while later stages are nonselective. The origin of most of the phosphorites is the diagenetic replacement of calcium carbonate by francolite. The karst surface of the upper terrace appears to have been produced by subaerial exposure in the middle to late Miocene as evidenced by shallow-water components in the rocks of the upper terrace plus considerations of local subsidence and eustatic sea-level curves. The erosional lower terrace, 200–300 m deeper than the upper terrace, would have been too deep to have been produced by subaerial or wave erosion. An erosional hiatus of middle Miocene age in JOIDES drill holes on the Blake Plateau indicates that bottom-current velocities in this area increased over this interval. The formation of the lower erosional terrace is related to increased flow of the Gulf Stream system (Florida Current) and bioerosion concurrent with the tectonic uplift and oceanographic closure of the western Caribbean in mid-Miocene time. The bathymetry, petrology, structure and paleontology of the Miami Terrace, along with correlative data from adjacent areas, argue that a more active Gulf Stream system began as early as the middle Miocene (10.5–16 m.y.B.P.) rather than the early to middle Pliocene (3.5–4.0 m.y.B.P.) as previously suggested. 相似文献
8.
TOPEX and Jason were the first two dual-frequency altimeters in space, with both operating at K u- and C-band. Thus, each gives two measurements of the normalized backscatter, σ 0, (from which wind speed is calculated) and two estimates of wave height. Departures from a well-defined relationship between the K u- and C-band σ 0 values give an indication of rain. This study investigates differences between the two instruments using data from Jason's verification phase. Jason's K u-band estimates of wave height are ∼1.8% less than TOPEX's, whereas its σ 0 values are higher. When these effects have been removed the root mean square (rms) mismatch between TOPEX and Jason's K u-band observations is close to that for TOPEX's observations at its two frequencies, and the changes in σ 0 with varying wave height conditions are the same for the two altimeters. Rain flagging and quantitative estimates of rain rate are both based on the atmospheric attenuation derived from the σ 0 measurements at the two frequencies. The attenuation estimates of TOPEX and Jason agree very well, and a threshold of-0.5 dB is effective at removing the majority of spurious data records from the Jason GDRs. In the high σ 0 regime, anomalous data can be caused by processes other than rain. Consequently, for these low wind conditions, neither can reliable rain detection be based on altimetry alone, nor can a generic rain flag be expected to remove all suspect data. 相似文献
9.
The velocity profiles under crest of a total of 62 different steep wave events in deep water are measured in laboratory using particle image velocimetry. The waves take place in the leading unsteady part of a wave train, focusing wave fields and random wave series. Complementary fully nonlinear theoretical/numerical wave computations are performed. The experimental velocities have been put on a nondimensional form in the following way: from the wave record (at a fixed point) the (local) trough-to-trough period, TTT and the maximal elevation above mean water level, η m of an individual steep wave event are identified. The local wavenumber, k and an estimate of the wave slope, ε are evaluated from ω 2/( gk)=1+ε 2,
where ω=2π/ TTT and g denotes the acceleration of gravity. A reference fluid velocity,
is then defined. Deep water waves with a fluid velocity up to 75% of the estimated wave speed are measured. The corresponding kη m is 0.62. A strong collapse of the nondimensional experimental velocity profiles is found. This is also true with the fully nonlinear computations of transient waves. There is excellent agreement between the present measurements and previously published Laser Doppler Anemometry data. A surprising result, obtained by comparison, is that the nondimensional experimental velocities fit with the exponential profile, i.e. e ky, y the vertical coordinate, with y=0 in the mean water level. 相似文献
10.
Cold-water (<3–11°C) carbonate is the predominant sediment on the Tasmanian shelf. Calcitic skeletal grains (bryozoa, foraminifera, echinoderms, etc.) predominate over aragonitic (gastropods, etc.) ones. Non-skeletal grains are mostly micritic intraclasts with some pellets. Fibrous spherulitic and rhombohedral calcite submarine cements range up to 90% in the bryozoan sand. X-ray analyses show that the bryozoan sand is characterized by a spectrum of calcites (low to high magnesian) and some aragonite. A uniform spread of Mg concentrations from 0.06 to 2.48 wt.% indicates <3–10°C ambient water temperatures. The Mn (10–360 ppm) and Fe (176–2499 ppm) concentrations increase with increasing Mg values due to the formation of impure CaCO3 phases. The Sr content in bryozoan sand (bryozoa = 3200 ppm Sr) decreases with increasing rhombohedral calcite cement, as low Mg-calcite precipitating from 3° C sea water would have 1350 ppm Sr. The bryozoan sand grains with fibrous spherulitic calcite cements have high Sr concentrations (4470–7000 ppm), in the same range as in aragonitic (detected only by X-ray analyses) bryozoan sand grains. The spherulitic calcite cements are either pseudomorphs after original aragonite cements or these calcite cements and aragonite were inverted from fibrous spherulitic vaterite, a predominant CaCO3 polymorph at temperatures <10°C. 相似文献
11.
A prograding chenier plain on the west side of Broad Sound is up to 5 km wide and individual beach ridges (cheniers) are up to 5 km long. The cheniers are believed to have formed during periods of low sediment supply, leading to the erosion of mangrove deposits and the attendant development of a beach ridge. Radiocarbon dating of two sequences, revealed that cheniers formed at about 5000, 4500, 3550, 2500, 1600 and 700 years B.P. There is no significant change in the elevation of the cheniers during this 5000 year interval and it would seem from the Broad Sound evidence that sea level stabilized at about the present level approximately 5000 years B.P. Since that time mean sea level has varied by no more than ± 1 m. 相似文献
12.
Backshore sediment samples from 22 beaches along the Antalya and Finike Gulfs have been studied for their grain size, chemical and heavy mineral composition. Data presented here suggest that well- to moderately-sorted (0.41 Φ–0.92 Φ) medium sand (1 Φ–2 Φ) represents dominant mean grain size in most beaches. In contrast, some beaches from the western part of the Gulf of Antalya (Göynük, Kemer-Kiriş and Beldibi) are composed of pebble- to boulder-size grained beaches which are located close to mouths of short and steep-gradient ephemeral rivers entering the sea from the Western Taurus Mountains. The heavy mineral assemblages are dominated by detrital opaque minerals (14–58% magnetite, chromite, and hematite), pyroxene (8–65% augite), amphibole (3–15% tremolite and actinolite), epidote (3–25%), garnet (2–9% pyrope and almandine) and micas (3–20 biotite, muscovite and chlorite). The very high concentrations of heavy minerals (up to 86% of bulk sediment) together with the significant concentrations of some elements found in beach sediments from the Gulf of Finike and western Gulf of Antalya (Fe: 18.40%; Cr: 10.00%; and Ti: 1.32%) are indicative of ultramafic origin, mainly derived from the ophiolitic rocks of the Antalya–Tekirova nappe on coastal hinterland. 相似文献
13.
Ancient sea conditions can be estimated from the grain size, spacing and steepness of preserved ripple-marks. The element of greatest uncertainty in such reconstructions is the relationship between near-bed orbital diameter of water particles and the ripple spacing. This relationship is simple for vortex ripples of high steepness but is problematical for the low-steepness forms known as post-vortex, rolling-grain or anorbital ripples. The existence field for wave ripples is between the threshold velocity for sediment movement and the onset of sheet flow, most low-steepness forms occurring close to the bed planation threshold. A range of maximum period of formative waves can be obtained using combinations of orbital diameter and orbital velocity, assuming linear wave theory to be a reasonable approximation. Probable wave heights, wave lengths and water depths can be investigated using the transformation of wave parameters in shallowing waters and the constraints on wave dimensions provided by the wave-breaking condition. Given reasonable estimates of wave height, crude estimates of wave power allow a comparison of ancient wave-influenced sequences with modern counterparts. Wave ripple-marks preserved in the Upper Marine Molasse of western Switzerland have been investigated. Results, which are in agreement with regional geology, suggest deposition in a seaway of approximately 100 km width, where moderate period waves (T = 3–6 s) were generated. The depositional facies belts were adjusted to the prevailing waves, tides and fluvial outflows. 相似文献
14.
High-resolution benthic oxygen isotope and XRF (Fe and Ca) records from Site 1085 drilled in the Mid-Cape basin (ODP Leg 175) are used to investigate global climate changes during the Late Miocene in relation to Messinian geological events. The cyclic fluctuations of the time series at Site 1085 enable us to establish a reliable chronology for the time interval 7.3–4.7 Ma. Spectral analysis of the δ 18O record indicates that the 41-kyr period of orbital obliquity dominates the Late Miocene record. A global climate record was extracted from the oxygen isotopic composition of benthic foraminifera. Both long- and short-term variabilities in the climate record are discussed in terms of sea-level and deep-water temperature changes. The time interval 7.3–6.25 Ma characterized by low-amplitude δ 18O variations is followed by a period marked by maximum in the δ 18O values (6.25–5.57 Ma). At about 5.56 Ma, a rapid decrease in δ 18O values is documented that may reflect a warming of deep-water temperature associated with a global warming period. Comparison between the timing of the oceanic isotope events and the chronology of the Mediterranean Salinity Crisis suggest that global eustatic processes were not essential in the Mediterranean Salinity Crisis history. From our data, we infer that the global warmth documented in the Early/mid-Pliocene probably started during the Late Miocene (at 5.55 Ma). At the same time, the onset of evaporite deposition in the central basin of the Mediterranean Sea took place. Sharp changes in the sedimentation rates, mainly driven by terrigenous input at this site, are observed during the Messinian Stage. 相似文献
15.
Marine sediment compressional wave attenuation and its frequency dependence have been active topics in the ocean acoustics community. To support the predictions of the frequency dependence of the sediment attenuation, experimental studies are essential for providing the observations of the sediment attenuation as a function of frequency in different environments, such as sediment type, source–receiver range, water depth, etc. This paper proposes an experimental method for estimating marine sediment attenuation at low frequencies in shallow water. The experimental geometry is short range between a vertical line array and multiple source depths to cover bottom reflections over a wide span of grazing angles. Single bounce bottom-reflected (BR) and sub-bottom-reflected signals are used in the analysis to obtain the best approximation of the sediment intrinsic attenuation. The attenuation estimating method is demonstrated on chirp data (1.5–4.5 kHz) collected on the New Jersey Continental Shelf during the 2006 Shallow Water Experiment (SW06). The data indicate a linear frequency dependence of the compressional wave attenuation for clay rich sediments on the outer shelf, and the estimated value is 0.15 dB/ $lambda$ within the frequency band of 1.75–3.15 kHz. The observation of small sound-speed dispersion of $sim$15 m/s over the frequency band is consistent with a linear frequency dependence of attenuation. 相似文献
16.
岬湾砂、砾质海岸是海岛、海岸带重要的旅游资源, 具有较高的社会经济和生态价值, 长期以来备受关注。本文以浙江朱家尖岛东岸的5个代表性岬湾海滩为例, 基于2019年台风季节早期、中期及晚期测量获得的海滩地形和沉积物数据, 结合海滩近岸的水动力数据, 分析了砂质海滩和砾石海滩这两种不同类型岬湾海滩的沉积地貌动态变化。结果表明, 朱家尖岛东岸5个海滩在台风季节出现了不同的体积变化, 大沙里、东沙、千沙、乌石塘和小乌石塘海滩的单宽体积变化分别为11.93m 3·m -1、-54.41m 3·m -1、-19.75m 3·m -1、2.19m 3·m -1和-1.96m 3·m -1。砾石滩较砂质海滩更为稳定, 无人类活动干扰的砂质海滩在台风季节侵蚀更少、变化更小。台风季节大沙里、东沙、千沙、乌石塘和小乌石塘海滩表层沉积物的平均粒径分别为2.47Փ、2.24Փ、2.64Փ、-5.96Փ和-6.03Փ, 粒径粗化和离岸输运是5个海滩表层沉积物在台风季节的主要表现, 砂质海滩的沉积物粒度特征变化比砾石海滩要大。沉积物粒径、台风强度及台风期间的主要波向与海滩走向之间的关系、海岸工程这3种因素都可能对海滩在台风季节的沉积地貌动态变化产生影响。本文研究结果可为台风季节的海滩管理提供参考。 相似文献
17.
A seabed 2-m-long cone penetrometer and coring system (Geotechnical Module) has been used at 17 stations in four transects on the Scotian Slope to characterise in situ shear strength and induced pore pressure on several different types of late Pleistocene and early Holocene failure. Study sites were selected using the SAR high-resolution deep-towed acoustic system equipped with a digital 160–190 kHz sidescan sonar and a 3.5 kHz subbottom profiler. Several distinctive types of “geotechnical signature” were recognised from plots of cone resistance and induced pore pressure with depth in the sediment. Normally consolidated sediments show a progressive increase in cone resistance with depth (to about 75 kPa at 2 m subbottom). Holocene surficial muds show spectacular apparent overconsolidation, reaching a peak of 250 kPa at about 50 cm subbottom and then decreasing down to 1.5 m. This overconsolidation is associated with Zoophycos burrows. Late Pleistocene sediments exhumed by bedding plane slides show strong true overconsolidation consistent with the original depth of burial inferred from high-resolution seismic stratigraphy. Debris flows show only a slight shear stress gradient with depth (40–45 kPa over 0.5–1 m subbottom) with under-consolidation due to remoulding of sediment. 相似文献
18.
Storms are one of the most important controls on the cycle of erosion and accretion on beaches. Current meters placed in shoreface locations of Saco Bay and Wells Embayment, ME, recorded bottom currents during the winter months of 2000 and 2001, while teams of volunteers profiled the topography of nearby beaches. Coupling offshore meteorological and beach profile data made it possible to determine the response of nine beaches in southern Maine to various oceanographic and meteorological conditions. The beaches selected for profiling ranged from pristine to completely developed and permitted further examination of the role of seawalls on the response of beaches to storms. Current meters documented three unique types of storms: frontal passages, southwest storms, and northeast storms. In general, the current meter results indicate that frontal passages and southwest storms were responsible for bringing sediment towards the shore, while northeast storms resulted in a net movement of sediment away from the beach. During the 1999–2000 winter, there were a greater percentage of frontal passages and southwest storms, while during the 2000–2001 winter, there were more northeast storms. The sediment that was transported landward during the 1999–2000 winter was reworked into the berm along moderately and highly developed beaches during the next summer. A northeast storm on March 5–6, 2001, resulted in currents in excess of 1 m s−1 and wave heights that reached six meters. The storm persisted over 10 high tides and caused coastal flooding and property damage. Topographic profiles made before and after the storm demonstrate that developed beaches experienced a loss of sediment volume during the storm, while sediment was redistributed along the profile on moderately developed and undeveloped beaches. Two months after the storm, the profiles along the developed beaches had not reached their pre-storm elevation. In comparison, the moderately developed and undeveloped beaches reached and exceeded their pre-storm elevation and began to show berm buildup characteristic of the summer months. 相似文献
19.
为了分析台风影响下浙江沿海风和浪的演变特点，利用浙江省海洋浮标站监测数据和欧洲中期天气预报中心第五代全球气候大气再分析数据（European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts Reanalysis v5，ERA5），选取2010年以来严重影响浙江的7次台风个例，对台风作用下浙江沿海海面风和浪的演变特点进行分析。结果表明：在台风影响过程中，海浪波型多数呈现混合浪-风浪-混合浪的演变规律；涌浪波型的出现与台风强度及其与浮标站的距离和方位有关，也与海洋潮汐现象紧密相关。台风影响期间，浙江沿海浪高的变化受风速和风向共同作用影响。在风向不变的情况下，持续风速增大对浪高的增大有明显作用；风向的变化也会对浪高变化产生影响，向岸风和离岸风的转变会造成浪高出现剧烈变化。ERA5 再分析资料有效波高在台风浪较大时会呈现偏小的趋势，分析订正后的ERA5 有效波高发现，台风浪有效波高大值区与台风中心位置相关。研究结果可为严重影响浙江沿海的台风浪预报服务提供参考。 相似文献
20.
As a part of our calibration/validation activities five months of SARAL/AltiKa wave data have been analyzed in this study. A robust quality control procedure using threshold values on signal and retrieved wave heights was implemented before the assimilation. Assimilation runs in the wave model Météo-France (MFWAM) were performed for a long period. The validation of the model outputs was performed with independent wave observations from altimeter and buoy data. The results indicate good performance in terms of bias and scatter index for the significant wave height and the peak wave period. Statistical analyses were performed for different ocean basins (high and intermediate latitudes and tropics). The use of SARAL/AltiKa and Jason-2 wave data combined was also investigated. This leads to further improvements for the analysis and forecast periods. In other respects, the impact of the assimilation of SARAL/AltiKa wave data is discussed for waves under strong wind conditions such as typhoons Fitow and Danas which occurred in early October 2013. 相似文献
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