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1.
This paper provides an approach by which the scour depth below pipelines in shoaling conditions beneath non-breaking and breaking random waves can be derived. Here the scour depth formula in shoaling conditions for regular non-breaking and breaking waves with normal incidence to the pipeline presented by Cevik and Yüksel [Cevik, E. and Yüksel, Y., (1999). Scour under submarine pipelines in waves in shoaling conditions. ASCE J. Waterw., Port, Coast. Ocean Eng., 125 (1), 9–19.] combined with the wave height distribution including shoaling and breaking waves presented by Mendez et al. [Mendez, F.J., Losada, I.J. and Medina, R., (2004). Transformation model of wave height distribution on planar beaches. Coast. Eng. 50 (3), 97–115.] are used. Moreover, the approach is based on describing the wave motion as a stationary Gaussian narrow-band random process. An example of calculation is also presented. 相似文献
2.
《Applied Ocean Research》2007,29(1-2):80-85
An approach by which the scour depth around a spherical body and the self-burial depth of such a body in random waves can be derived is presented. Here the formulas for scour and self-burial depths of a spherical body by Truelsen et al. [Truelsen C, Sumer BM, Fredsøe J. Scour around spherical bodies and self- burial. ASCE J Waterway Port Coast Ocean Eng 2005;131(1):1–13] for regular waves are used. They are combined with describing the waves as a stationary Gaussian narrow-band random process to derive the scour and self-burial depths in random waves. 相似文献
3.
This paper provides a stochastic method by which the random wave-induced scour depth at the trunk section of vertical-wall and rubble-mound breakwaters can be derived. Here the formulas for regular wave-induced scour depth provided by Xie [Xie, S.L., 1981. Scouring patterns in front of vertical breakwaters and their influence on the stability of the foundations of the breakwaters. Report. Department of Civil Engineering, Delft University of Technology, Delft, The Netherlands, September, 61 pp.] for vertical-wall breakwater and Sumer and Fredsøe [Sumer, B.M., Fredsøe, J., 2000. Experimental study of 2D scour and its protection at a rubble-mound breakwater. Coast. Eng. 40, 59–87] for rubble-mound breakwater are used. These formulas are combined with describing the waves as a stationary Gaussian narrow-band random process to derive the random wave-induced scour depth. Comparisons are made between the present method and the Sumer and Fredsøe [Sumer, B.M., Fredsøe, J., 2000. Experimental study of 2D scour and its protection at a rubble-mound breakwater. Coast. Eng. 40, 59–87.] random wave scour data for rubble-mound breakwater, as well as the Hughes and Fowler [Hughes, S.A., Fowler, J.A., 1991. Wave-induced scour predictions at vertical walls. ASCE Proc. Conf. Coastal Sediments vol. 91, 1886–1899] random wave scour data and formula for vertical-wall breakwater. A tentative approach to random wave-induced scour at a vertical impermeable submerged breakwater is also suggested. 相似文献
4.
This paper provides an approach by which the burial and scour of short cylinders under combined second order random waves and currents can be derived. Here the formulas for burial and scour for regular waves plus currents presented by Catano-Lopera and Garcia [Catano-Lopera, Y.A. and Garcia, M.H. (2006). Burial of short cylinders induced by scour under combined waves and currents. ASCE J. Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Eng. 132(6), 439–449., Catano-Lopera, Y.A. and Garcia, M.H. (2007). Geometry of scour hole around, and the influence of the angle of attack on the burial of finite cylinders under combined flows. Ocean Eng. 34(5, 6), 856–869.] are used together with Stokes second order wave theory by assuming the basic harmonic wave motion to be a stationary Gaussian narrow-band random process. An example of calculation is also presented. 相似文献
5.
Dag Myrhaug Muk Chen Ong Henrik Føien Cecilie Gjengedal Bernt J. Leira 《Ocean Engineering》2009,36(8):605-616
This paper provides a method by which the scour depth below pipelines and around single vertical piles for combined random waves plus current including effects of second-order wave asymmetry can be derived. Here the empirical formulas proposed by Sumer and Fredsøe [1996. Scour below pipelines in combined waves and current. In: Proceedings of the 15th OMAE Conference, Florence, Italy. Vol. 5, ASME, New York, pp. 595–602] for pipelines, and by Sumer and Fredsøe [2002. The mechanics of scour in the marine environment. World Scientific, Singapore] for vertical piles are used together with Stokes second-order wave theory by assuming the basic harmonic wave motion to be a stationary Gaussian narrow-band random process. Comparisons are made with the Sumer and Fredsøe [1996. Scour below pipelines in combined waves and current. In: Proceedings of the 15th OMAE Conference, Florence, Italy. Vol. 5, ASME, New York, pp. 595–602; 2001. Scour around pile in combined waves and current. Journal of Hydraulic Engineering, 127(5), 403–411] data for linear random waves plus current. An example of calculation is also presented. 相似文献
6.
《Coastal Engineering》2001,42(2):155-162
It is studied whether the mass transport or energy transport is the proper viewpoint for internally generating waves in the extended Boussinesq equations of Nwogu [J. Waterw., Port, Coastal Ocean Eng. 119 (1993) 618–638]. Numerical solutions of the Boussinesq equations with the internal generation of sinusoidal waves show that the energy transport approach yields the required wave amplitude properly while the mass transport approach yields wave amplitude different from the required one by the ratio of phase velocity to energy velocity. The waves which pass through the wave generation point do not cause any numerical distortion while the incident waves are generated. The technique of internal generation of waves shows its capability of generating nonlinear cnoidal waves as well as linear sinusoidal waves. 相似文献
7.
《Coastal Engineering》2006,53(2-3):157-170
Influence of various factors affecting the longshore currents induced by obliquely incident random waves is examined through numerical calculation. Seven numerical models for random wave breaking process are found to yield large differences in the wave heights in the surf zone and longshore current velocities. The turbulent eddy viscosity formulation by Larson and Kraus [Larson, M. and Kraus, N.C. (1991): Numerical model of longshore current for bar and trough beaches, J. Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Eng., ASCE, 117 (4), pp. 326-347.] functions almost equal to that by Battjes [Battjes, J.A. (1975): Modeling of turbulence in the surf zone, Proc. Symp. Modeling Techniques, pp. 1050–1061.], but the formulation by Longuet-Higgins [Longuet-Higgins, M.S. (1970): Longshore current generated by obliquely incident sea waves, 1 and 2, J. Geophys. Res., 75 (33), pp. 6779–6801.] produces excessive diffusion of longshore currents into the offshore zone. The generation and decay process of the surface roller is indispensable in the longshore current analysis. The random wave transformation model called PEGBIS (Parabolic Equation with Gradational Breaker Index for Spectral waves) by Goda [Goda, Y. (2004): A 2-D random wave transformation model with gradational breaker index, Coastal Engineering Journal, JSCE and World Scientific, 46 (1), pp. 1–38.] produced good agreement with several laboratory and field data of longshore currents. 相似文献
8.
《Coastal Engineering》2004,51(10):1051-1065
An approach by which the scour depth and protection layer width around the head of vertical-wall breakwaters, the scour and deposition depths as well as the protection layer widths at the round head of rubble-mound breakwaters in random waves can be derived is presented. Here the formulas for scour depth by Sumer and Fredsøe (1997) for vertical-wall breakwaters for regular waves and Fredsøe and Sumer (1997) for rubble-mound breakwaters for irregular waves are used. They are combined with describing the waves as a stationary Gaussian narrow-band random process to derive the scour and deposition depths as well as protection layer widths in random waves. Comparisons are made between the present approach and the Fredsøe and Sumer (1997) random wave scour data for rubble-mound breakwaters. 相似文献
9.
In this paper, a finite difference scheme with an efficient 2-D numerical wave absorber for solving the extended Boussinesq equations as derived by Nwogu (Nwogu, O., 1993. Alternative form of Boussinesq equations for nearshore wave propagation. J. Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, ASCE 119, 618–638) is proposed. The alternate direction iterative method combined with an efficient predictor-corrector scheme are adopted for the numerical solution of the governing differential equations. To parameterize the contribution of unresolved small-scale motions, the philosophy of the large eddy simulation is applied on the horizontal plane. The proposed method is verified by two test cases where experimental data are available for comparison. The first case is wave diffraction around a semi-infinite breakwater studied by Briggs et al. (Briggs, M.J., Thompson, E.F., Vincent, C.L., 1995. Wave diffraction around breakwater. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering, ASCE 121, 23–35). The other case is wave concentration by a navigation channel as reported by Yu et al. (Yu, Y.-X., Liu, S.-X., Li, Y.S., Wai, O.W.H., 2000. Refraction and diffraction of random waves through breakwater. Ocean Engineering 27, 489–509). Numerical results agree very well with the corresponding experimental data in both cases. 相似文献
10.
This paper provides a practical stochastic method by which the maximum equilibrium scour depth around a vertical pile exposed to long-crested (2D) and short-crested (3D) nonlinear random waves plus a current can be derived. The approach is based on assuming the waves to be a stationary narrow-band random process, adopting the Forristall (2000) wave crest height distribution representing both 2D and 3D nonlinear random waves, and using the empirical formulas for the scour depth by Sumer and Fredsøe (2002). Comparisons are made between the present approach and the Sumer and Fredsøe (2001) data for 2D random waves plus current. An example calculation is provided. 相似文献
11.
An analytic solution to the mild slope equation is derived for waves propagating over an axi-symmetric pit located in an otherwise constant depth region. The water depth inside the pit decreases in proportion to an integer power of radial distance from the pit center. The mild slope equation in cylindrical coordinates is transformed into ordinary differential equations by using the method of separation of variables, and the coefficients of the equation in radial direction are transformed into explicit forms by using the direct solution for the wave dispersion equation by Hunt (Hunt, J.N., 1979. Direct solution of wave dispersion equation. J. Waterw., Port, Coast., Ocean Div., Proc. ASCE, 105, 457–459). Finally, the Frobenius series is used to obtain the analytic solution. Due to the feature of the Hunt's solution, the present analytic solution is accurate in shallow and deep waters, while it is less accurate in intermediate depth waters. The validity of the analytic solution is demonstrated by comparison with numerical solutions of the hyperbolic mild slope equations. The analytic solution is also used to examine the effects of the pit geometry and relative depth on wave transformation. Finally, wave attenuation in the region over the pit is discussed. 相似文献
12.
A comparison of the diffraction of multidirectional random waves using several selected wave spectrum models is presented in this paper. Six wave spectrum models, Bretschneider, Pierson–Moskowitz, ISSC, ITTC, Mitsuyasu, and JONSWAP spectrum, are considered. A discrete form for each of the given spectrum models is used to specify the incident wave conditions. Analytical solutions based on both the Fresnel integrals and polynomial approximations of the Fresnel integrals and numerical solutions of a boundary integral approach have been used to obtain the two-dimensional wave diffraction by a semi-infinite breakwater at uniform water depth. The diffraction of random waves is based on the cumulative superposition of linear diffraction solution. The results of predicted random wave diffraction for each of the given spectrum models are compared with those of the published physical model presented by Briggs et al. [1995. Wave diffraction around breakwater. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering—ASCE 121(1), 23–35]. Reasonable agreement is obtained in all cases. The effect of the directional spreading function is also examined from the results of the random wave diffraction. Based on these comparisons, the present model for the analysis of various wave spectra is found to be an accurate and efficient tool for predicting the random wave field around a semi-infinite breakwater or inside a harbor of arbitrary geometry in practical applications. 相似文献
13.
Cross-shore hydrodynamics within an unsaturated surf zone 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
This paper concerns the hydrodynamics induced by random waves incident on a steep beach. New experimental results are presented on surface elevation and kinematic probability density functions, cross-shore variation in wave heights, the fraction of broken waves and velocity moments. The surf zone is found to be unsaturated at incident wave frequencies, with a significant proportion of the incident wave energy remaining at the shoreline in the form of bores. Wave heights in both the outer and inner surf zones are best described by a full Rayleigh distribution [Thornton, E.B., Guza, R.T., 1983. Transformation of wave height distribution. J. Geophys. Res. 88, 5925–5938], rather than a truncated Rayleigh distribution as used by Battjes and Janssen (1978) [Battjes, J.A, Janssen, J.P., 1978. Energy loss and setup due to breaking of random waves. Proc. 16th Int. Conf. Coastal Eng. ASCE, New York, pp. 569–588]. A new parametric wave transformation model is outlined which provides explicit expressions for the fraction of broken waves and the energy dissipation rate within the surf zone. On steep beaches, the model appears to offer improved predictive capabilities over the original Battjes and Janssen model. Cross-shore variations in the velocity variance and velocity moments are best described using Linear Gaussian wave theory, with less than 20% of the velocity variance in the inner surf zone due to low frequency energy. 相似文献
14.
Tai-Wen Hsu Shih-Chun Hsiao Shan-Hwei Ou Swun-Kwang Wang Bin-Da Yang Shih-En Chou 《Ocean Engineering》2007,34(5-6):870-883
A numerical model based on the second-order fully nonlinear Boussinesq equations of Wei et al. [1995. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering 121 (5), 251-263] is developed to simulate the Bragg reflection of both regular and irregular surface waves scattered by submerged bars. Particularly for incident regular waves, the computed results are observed to agree very well with the existing experimental data as presented by Davies and Heathershaw [1984. Journal of Fluid Mechanics 144, 419-446] and Kirby and Anton [1990. Proceedings of the 22nd International Conference on Coastal Engineering, ASCE, New York, pp. 757–768). In the case of incident irregular waves, the simulated results reveal that the distribution of Bragg reflection from irregular waves becomes more flat than that of regular waves. Due to lack of experimental data, the numerical results for incident irregular waves are compared with those of the evolution equation of the mild-slope equation [Hsu et al., 2002 Proceedings of the 24th Ocean Engineering Conference in Taiwan, pp. 70–77 (in Chinese)]. In addition, several parameters such as the number of bars, the relative height of bars and the spacing of bars affecting Bragg reflection are also discussed. 相似文献
15.
The Breaking Celerity Index (BCI) is proposed as a new wave breaking criterion for Boussinesq-type equations wave propagation models (BTE).The BCI effectiveness in determining the breaking initiation location has been verified against data from different experimental investigations conducted with incident regular and irregular waves propagating along uniform slope [Utku, M. (1999). “The Relative Trough Froude Number. A New Criteria for Wave Breaking”. Ph.D. Dissertation, Dept. of Civil and Enviromental Engineering, Old Dominion University, Norfolk, VA; Gonsalves Veloso dos Reis, M.T.L. (1992). “Characteristics of waves in the surf zone”. MS Thesis, Department of Civil Engineering, University of Liverpool., Liverpool; Lara, J.L., Losada, I.J., and Liu, P.L.-F. (2006). “Breaking waves over a mild gravel slope: experimental and numerical analysis”. Journal of Geophysical Research, VOL 111, C11019] and barred beaches [Tomasicchio, G.R., and Sancho, F. (2002). “On wave induced undertow at a barred beach”. Proceedings of 28th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, ASCE, New York, 557–569]. The considered experiments were carried out in small-scale and large-scale facilities. In addition, one set of data has been obtained by the use of the COBRAS model based upon the Reynolds Averaged Navier Stokes (RANS) equations [Liu, P.L.-F., Lin, P., Hsu, T., Chang, K., Losada, I.J., Vidal, C., and Sakakiyama, T. (2000). “A Reynolds averaged Navier–Stokes equation model for nonlinear water wave and structure interactions”. Proceedings of Coastal Structures ‘99, Balkema, Rotterdam, 169–174; Losada, I.J., Lara, J.L., and Liu, P.L.-F. (2005). “Numerical simulation based on a RANS model of wave groups on an impermeable slope”. Proceedings of Fifth International Symposium WAVES 2005, Madrid].Numerical simulations have been performed with the 1D-FUNWAVE model [Kirby, J.T., Wei, G., Chen, Q., Kennedy, A.B., and Dalrymple, R.A. (1998). “FUNWAVE 1.0 Fully Nonlinear Boussinesq Wave Model Documentation and User's Manual”. Research Report No CACR-98-06, Center for Applied Coastal Research, University of Delaware, Newark]. With regard to the adopted experimental conditions, the breaking location has been calculated for different trigger mechanisms [Zelt, J.A. (1991). “The run-up of nonbreaking and breaking solitary waves”. Coastal Engineering, 15, 205–246; Kennedy, A.B., Chen, Q., Kirby, J.T., and Dalrymple, R.A. (2000). “Boussinesq modeling of wave transformation, breaking and run-up. I: 1D”. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, 126, 39–47; Utku, M., and Basco, D.R. (2002). “A new criteria for wave breaking based on the Relative Trough Froude Number”. Proceedings of 28th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, ASCE, New York, 258–268] including the proposed BCI.The calculations have shown that BCI gives a better agreement with the physical data with respect to the other trigger criteria, both for spilling and plunging breaking events, with a not negligible reduction of the calculation time. 相似文献
16.
Numerical simulations using momentum source wave-maker applied to RANS equation model 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
For Navier-Stokes equation model using the VOF scheme, Lin and Liu (Lin, P. and Liu, P.L.-F. (1999). Internal wave-maker for Navier-Stokes equations models. J. Waterw. Port Coast. Ocean Eng., 125 (4), 207–215.) developed an internal wave-maker method for which a mass source function of the continuity equation was used to generate target wave trains. Using this internal wave-maker method, various numerical experiments have been conducted without any problems due to waves reflected by a wave-maker. In this study, an internal wave-maker method using a momentum source function was proposed. Various numerical simulations in two and three dimensions were performed using the momentum source wave-maker applied to the RANS equation model in a CFD code, FLUENT. To verify their applicability in 2 dimensions, the computational results obtained using the momentum source wave-maker in a channel of constant depth were compared with the results obtained by using the mass source wave-maker and with the analytical solutions. And the results of the present numerical simulations of hydraulic experiments, which represent nonlinear waves on a submerged shoal and breaking waves on a plane beach, were compared with measurements. The comparisons showed good agreements between them. To see their applicability into 3-dimensional cases, the present results in a basin of constant depth were compared with the analytical solutions, and they agreed well with each other. In addition, vertical variation of longshore current was presented by using the 3-dimensional simulation results. 相似文献
17.
Results of estimating the directional wave fields in front of a detached breakwater are presented here in this paper. Two of non-phase-locked methods, i.e., the Maximum Likelihood Method (MLM) and the Extended Maximum Entropy Principle Method (EMEP), were adopted for the purpose. In general, the latter outperforms the former. It is shown that the reflection coefficients decrease with increasing distances away from the detached breakwater, and within four wavelengths from the detached breakwater, the rate of the decrease is faster for wave fields having larger directional spreads. When the measuring distance is more than four wavelengths away from the detached breakwaters, the reflection coefficients tend to reach to a constant value. It is shown that, with the use of the non-phase-locked EMEP method, the effective region can be extended, as compared with the results of Huntley and Davidson [J. Waterw. Port Coast. Ocean Eng. 124 (1998) 312]. 相似文献
18.
《Coastal Engineering》2004,51(10):991-1020
This paper describes the capability of a numerical model named COrnell BReaking waves And Structures (COBRAS) [Lin, P., Liu, P.L.-F., 1998. A numerical study of breaking waves in the surf zone. Journal of Fluid Mechanics 359, 239–264; Liu, P.L.-F., Lin, P., Chang, K.A., Sakakiyama, T., 1999. Numerical modeling of wave interaction with porous structures. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering 125, 322–330, Liu, P.L.-F., Lin, P., Hsu, T., Chang, K., Losada, I.J., Vidal, C., Sakakiyama, T., 2000. A Reynolds averaged Navier–Stokes equation model for nonlinear water wave and structure interactions. Proc. Coastal Structures '99, 169–174] based on the Reynolds Averaged Navier–Stokes (RANS) equations to simulate the most relevant hydrodynamic near-field processes that take place in the interaction between waves and low-crested breakwaters. The model considers wave reflection, transmission, overtopping and breaking due to transient nonlinear waves including turbulence in the fluid domain and in the permeable regions for any kind of geometry and number of layers. Small-scale laboratory tests were conducted in order to validate the model, with different wave conditions and breakwater configurations. In the present study, regular waves of different heights and periods impinging on a wide-crested structure are considered. Three different water depths were tested in order to examine the influence of the structure freeboard. The experimental set-up includes a flow recirculation system aimed at preventing water piling-up at the lee of the breakwater due to overtopping. The applicability and validity of the model are examined by comparing the results of the numerical computations with experimental data. The model is proved to simulate with a high degree of agreement all the studied magnitudes, free surface displacement, pressure inside the porous structure and velocity field. The results obtained show that this model represents a substantial improvement in the numerical modelling of low-crested structures (LCS) since it includes many processes neglected previously by existing models. The information provided by the model can be useful to analyse structure functionality, structure stability, scour and many other hydrodynamic processes of interest. 相似文献
19.
Jonsson and Arneborg (Jonsson, I.G., Arneborg, L., 1995. Energy properties and shoaling of higher-order Stokes waves on a current. Ocean Engng 22, 819-857.) combined energy flux and set-down to make shoaling predictions for fourth-order Stokes waves with and without a net volume flux. With basis in their expressions, sixth-order expressions are derived and combined to make shoaling predictions correct to sixth order with an arbitrary net volume flux. The new sixth-order results are compared with the fourth-order results and the practically exact results obtained by Sobey and Bando (Sobey R.J., Bando K., 1991. Variations on higher-order shoaling. J. Waterway, Port, Coastal Ocean Engng ASCE 117, 348-368) with a Fourier 18 model. The effects of introducing sixth-order theory rather than the fourth-order theory in shoaling calculations are in general found to be small. As expected the deviations increase with increasing wave-steepness, decreasing depth and opposing currents. Also as expected, the results obtained with the sixth-order expressions improve the results obtained with the fourth-order expressions when compared to the results of Sobey and Bando. As novelties, some considerations regarding the consistency of odd- and even-order shoaling calculations, and the magnitude of the bottom slope, are presented. Furthermore a comparison between the wave-induced current and the total current is given. 相似文献
20.
《Coastal Engineering》2006,53(7):545-555
In the paper, the three-dimensional structure of the wave-induced momentum flux in irrotational waves propagating over a two-dimensional, irregular bathymetry is analyzed. The expansion method developed by de Vriend and Kitou [de Vriend, H.J., Kitou, N., 1990a. Incorporation of wave effects in a 3D hydrostatic mean current model. Delft Hydraulics Report H-1295. de Vriend, H.J., Kitou, N., 1990b. Incorporation of wave effects in a 3D hydrostatic mean current model. Proc. 22nd Int. Coast. Eng. Conf. ASCE, 1005–1018.] for unidirectional waves has been extended to derive expressions for velocity components in three-dimensional waves over sloping bottom. The vertical wave-induced momentum flux resulting from this solution has been shown to be vertically-varying (contrary to the 2D-V case) and to act as a counterbalance for the vertical variability of the other wave forcing terms in the momentum equations. Thus, the total wave forcing remains depth-invariant, but—contrary to the ‘traditional’ solution based on the radiation stress concept—it does not depend explicitly on the direction of wave propagation and is a simple function of gradients of wave energy and water depth only. One of the most important consequences of this fact is the lack of the longshore-current-generating force in the case of non-dissipative waves approaching a shore with a bottom profile uniform in the along-shore direction. To illustrate the meaning of the new solution, the wave forcing due to waves approaching a barred beach has been analysed in detail. Also, the present solution has been shown to give the same results as the one obtained by extending of the approach by Rivero and Arcilla [Rivero, F.J., Arcilla, A.S., 1995. On the vertical distribution of 〈ũw˜〉. Coast. Eng. 25, 137–152.] to three dimensions. 相似文献