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1.
侯一筠 《海洋与湖沼》1992,23(6):619-625
采用变量代换的方法,处理水波的自由边界,获得了新的水波控制方程和边界条件。以摄动法解非线性偏微分方程的近似解析解,求得了与三阶斯托克斯波略有差别的非线性波面和包含振幅的非线性水波色散关系,并且得出了二阶以上的波动势函数在深水情况下不为零的结论。  相似文献   

2.
移动的海面或海底强迫在共振条件下会向强迫上游周期性地生成内孤立波,这种内孤立波被称为先驱内孤立波。本文利用三维全非线性、全频散的非静力模型NHWAVE,模拟连续分层流体受到海面外强迫作用而产生的先驱内孤立波,研究了正负外强迫效应对先驱内孤立波生成过程和形态特征的影响。结果显示,负效应强迫作用下先驱内孤立波具有更长的生成周期,这与两层流体中的结论相同;在强迫区内部,正效应强迫使水体的等密度面维持较稳定的结构,而当强迫效应为负时,强迫区内水体的等密度面随时间起伏较大。在正负两种效应强迫作用下,流场均维持了逆时针的回流结构,不过在负效应强迫作用下,流场更为复杂。  相似文献   

3.
张韧 《海洋通报》1997,16(1):15-19
结合夏季东亚大陆季风雨带强对流降水过程中局地凝结热强迫作用的天气实际,从动力学上探讨了这类局地热源扰动的强迫作用对该地区位势场和风场的影响及其可能出现的天气系统的响应模态。研究结果表明,局地“狭窄”的准孤立子型的热力强迫作用可以激发出较为“宽广”的准孤立子型的位势场和风场的响应,从而对夏季东亚大陆梅雨期间局地范围内副高单体的生成和增强机制提供了一种可能的动力学途径,同时也对分析和预报夏季西太平洋副  相似文献   

4.
基于fKdV方程系数的正则特性,以二维两层流的先锋孤立子生成问题为算例,用数值方法对本文部分(Ⅰ)中的理论平均波阻,能量劈分及能量劈分比进行检验。从理论与数值结果的比较知,理论与数值结果符合得很好。这表明本文部分(Ⅰ)中的理论平均波阻,能量劈分及能量劈分比可用于先锋孤立子生成参数的预报,也表明本文部分(Ⅰ)中的理论可推广应用于二维非线性强迫系统。  相似文献   

5.
利用修正的非线性水平二维Lynett-Liu内长波数值模式,模拟了小振幅孤立子内波进出水道口的传播过程,及其穿过狭窄水道的衍射过程。通过分析孤立子内波垂向波形和水平二维纹理图像随水道口的形状及开阔水域宽度的变化.研究了侧边界对孤立子内波传播所产生的影响,并与卫星遥感图片进行了对比。  相似文献   

6.
何啸  贾村  孟静  刘娟  陈旭  杨小欣 《海洋科学》2023,47(3):1-14
内波是海洋中普遍存在的波动形式。内孤立波是典型的非线性内波,多发于陆架边缘海,如南海等海域,对陆架海域有重要影响。本文针对内孤立波在陆架地形上的传播问题,先基于弱非线性与全非线性数值模型,模拟了不同振幅、地形高度条件下内孤立波的演化的过程,探讨了动力系数对内孤立波演化过程的影响,对比了两模型的模拟结果在内孤立波演化过程、能量分配以及能量耗散的差异,后分析了南海的动力系数分布特征。结果表明,在内孤立波不发生破碎的情况下,弱非线性模型与全非线性模拟结果相近。当发生破碎过程时,弱非线性模型可准确模拟头波,但无法通过强非线性的破碎过程耗散能量,只能以裂变的方式辐射能量。在弱非线性模型中,随地形高度增加,频散系数减小到零,平方非线性系数由负转正,立方非线性系数绝对值增大一个量级,并主导陆架地形上内孤立波的演化过程。通过对比南海夏季与冬季非线性内波动力系数空间分布,发现内孤立波在传播过程由于夏季平方非线性效应、立方非线性效应与频散效应较强的影响,其在夏季更易发生陡化与裂变,波列发生频率高。  相似文献   

7.
Boussinesq型方程是研究水波传播与演化问题的重要工具之一,本文就1967-2018年常用的Boussinesq型水波方程从理论推导和数值应用两个方面进行了回顾,以期推动该类方程在海岸(海洋)工程波浪水动力方向的深入研究和应用。此类方程推导主要从欧拉方程或Laplace方程出发。在一定的非线性和缓坡假设等条件下,国内外学者建立了多个Boussinesq型水波方程,并以Stokes波的相关理论为依据,考察了这些方程在相速度、群速度、线性变浅梯度、二阶非线性、三阶非线性、波幅离散、速度沿水深分布以及和(差)频等多方面性能的精度。将Boussinesq型水波方程分为水平二维和三维两大类,并对主要Boussinesq型水波方程的特性进行了评述。进而又对适合渗透地形和存在流体分层情况下的Boussinesq型水波方程进行了简述与评论。最后对这些方程的应用进行了总结与分析。  相似文献   

8.
成长过程中非线性水波的色散关系   总被引:2,自引:0,他引:2  
本文讨论了成长过程中非线性水波的色散关系。得到了精确到波陡二次方的非线性色散关系,证明了在偶合机制控制下的非线性成长过程具有多重时间尺度(即振荡、演化和成长的时间尺度)。还证明了即使在成长过程中的水波色散关系中也不含有与波陡一次方成正比的非线性修正项。在极限情况下,我们又得到了非成长水波色散关系的一般表达式。用Wallops谱进行数值计算的结果表明,我们的理论适用于低频波和含能波段;与实验数据的比较表明,在含能波段的理论值和实测值很接近。  相似文献   

9.
用fKdV模式方程对单层二维表面波进行直接的数值研究。计算得出,在共振区域先锋孤立子的生成与T、Y.Wu(吴耀祖)及S.J.Lee等人的结果相同。在共振点与超临界转向点之间,对每一个Fr数存在初始不稳定的单峰孤立子,其振幅随时间增加。当Fr数接近共振区时,初始孤立子分裂成先峰孤立子,即先峰孤立子生成是占优的。当Fr接近超临界转向点时,这类初始不稳定孤立子最终破碎。当Fr超过超临界转向点时,存在一类稳定的超临界孤立子,其振幅不随时间变化,但是它得自时间相关方程。这类孤立子位于驱动力上方,它的振幅随Fr的增加而减少.由于它不同于自由KdV孤立子,因此本文称之为超临界驻定孤立子。  相似文献   

10.
基于三维海洋环流模式MITgcm,对非线性陡斜在南海北部内孤立波形成和传播过程中的作用进行了研究,探讨了内孤立波的三维演变过程。研究发现,吕宋海峡处正压潮流激发的斜压潮能射线在其西侧形成强斜压扰动,该扰动在西传过程中受到地形浅化的影响,发生非线性陡斜,波长变小,波形变陡,最终在南海北部陆架坡折处形成大振幅内孤立波,即南海北部的大振幅内孤立波主要是由吕宋海峡西侧的强斜压扰动发展而来,而非来自吕宋海峡巴坦岛附近经潮地相互作用所形成的强波动信号。同时,模式也揭示了a、b波的演变过程,在吕宋海峡西侧约120°E以东的海域,没有发现a、b波,经过西传过程中的非线性陡斜作用,a、b波才演变出来,表明传播过程在a、b波的形成中具有重要意义。  相似文献   

11.
This paper presents a new submarine landslide model based on the non-hydrostatic wave model NHWAVE of Ma et al. (2012). The landslide is modeled as a water–sediment mixture. The dense plume is driven by baroclinic pressure forcing introduced by spatial density variations. The model is validated using laboratory measurements of turbidity currents and of water wave generation by a granular landslide. The model is then utilized to study the dependence of landslide motion and associated tsunami wave generation on parameters including sediment settling velocity, initial depth of the landslide and slide density. Model results show that the slide motion and water waves which it generates are both sensitive to these parameters. The relative tsunamigenic response to rigid and deformable landslides of equal initial geometry and density is also examined. It is found that the wave energy is mostly concentrated on a narrow band of the dominant slide direction for the waves generated by rigid landslides, while directional spreading is more significant for waves generated by deformable landslides. The deformable landslide has larger speed and acceleration at the early stage of landslide, resulting in larger surface waves. The numerical results indicate that the model is capable of reasonably simulating tsunami wave generation by submarine landslides.  相似文献   

12.
变浅作用下浅水海浪谱的计算   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1  
深水海浪向近岸传播过程中,由于变浅作用,其波面高度分布,波谱都发生了变化。本文基于非线性系统的输出和输入间亦存在转换关系,通过波面高度分布函数建立了深水正态海浪过程作为输入和浅水偏态海浪过程作为输出之间的非线性转换关系,导出了深、浅水谱间的理论关系。在假定能通量不变的条件下,提出了一种由已知深水谱和波面偏度计算二维海浪变浅作用下的浅水谱的方法,并对其进行了讨论和检验。  相似文献   

13.
根据地球流体力学基本方程组,在密度垂直层结的情况下,引进行波坐标,研究非线性定形波在相平面上的几何拓扑结构。严格论证了不存在定形孤立波,并通过Hamilton函数及其角作用变把行波系统化成最简形式,由此而得到非线性惯性重力内波的解析解。  相似文献   

14.
从地球流体运动浅水模式的非线性方程出发,采用行波分析法给出了平面自治系统,利用相图理论,讨论了行波解的性质,提出了平面非线性系统不存在孤立波的结论;利用K-B平均法,首次获得有限振幅惯性重力波以Rossby数作为控制参量的非线性频散关系。  相似文献   

15.
马汝建  赵锡平 《海洋科学》2002,26(11):38-43
应用非线性谱分析理论,对三阶Stokes型随机波浪载荷谱进行了分析,将波面方程及海水质点的水平速度用一阶波面的非线性组表示,导出了随机波浪谱的表达式。为了便于求解随机波浪的载荷谱,将阻力项展开为幂级数式,并应用非线性谱分析理论,确定了幂级数的系数,进而将波浪载荷表示为一阶波面及其导数的非线性组合,最后得出波浪载荷谱密度的表达式,并应用数值分析方法,得出单位桩柱波浪力及总波浪力谱密度。  相似文献   

16.
气旋天气过程引起的大浪是石臼港近海灾害性海浪之一。本文对1979年12月的一次气旋天气影响下的实测海浪进行了分析;论述了波要素的某些特点、波高与周期分布以及风与浪的关系;并讨论了风浪谱及其参量特征,得到了一个与实测谱接近的拟合谱形式。  相似文献   

17.
A moving low atmospheric pressure is a main feature of tropical cyclones, which can induce a system of forced water waves and is an important factor that cause water level rise during a storm. A numerical model based on the nonlinear shallow water equations is applied to study the forced waves caused by an atmospheric pressure disturbance moving with a constant velocity over water surface. The effects of the moving speed, the spatial scale and the central pressure drop of the pressure disturbance are discussed. The results show that the wave pattern caused by a moving low-pressure is highly related with its moving speed. The wave pattern undergoes a great change as the moving speed approaches the wave velocity in shallow water. When the moving speed is less than the wave velocity, the distribution of water surface elevation is nearly the same as that of the pressure disturbance, and the maximum of the water surface elevation is located at the center of pressure. When the moving speed is larger than the wave velocity, a triangle shaped wave pattern is formed with a depression occurs in front of the pressure center, and the maximum of the water surface elevation lags behind the center of pressure. As the moving speed increases, the maximum of the water surface elevation firstly increases and then decreases, which reaches a peak when the moving speed is close to the wave velocity. The maximum of water surface elevation is approximately in proportion to the central pressure drop, and slightly affected by the spatial scale of pressure disturbance. Both the central pressure drop and the spatial scale of the pressure disturbance do not significantly affect the forced wave pattern. However, a clear difference can be noticed on the ratio of the maximum water surface elevation in moving pressure situation to that in static situation, when the moving speed is close to the wave velocity. A pressure disturbance with smaller spatial scale and smaller central pressure drop will give a larger ratio when the moving speed is close to the wave velocity.  相似文献   

18.
Nonlinear Dispersion Relation in Wave Transformation   总被引:13,自引:1,他引:13  
1 .Introduction1ThisworkwasfinanciallysupportedbytheNaturalScienceFoundationofChina (GrantNo .4 0 0 760 2 6and 4 0 0 760 2 8) Correspondingauthor.E mail:rjli@hhu .edu .cn  Itisaveryusefulandeffectivewaytoadjustthewavedispersionrelationforthestudyofthenon linearityofwavepro…  相似文献   

19.
An experimental and numerical study of the freak wave speed   总被引:2,自引:2,他引:0  
The propagation speed is one of the most important characteristics for describing freak waves. The research of freak wave speed is not only helpful for understanding the generation mechanism and evolution process of freak waves, but also applicable to the prediction. A stable and accurate method is proposed for the calculation of the freak wave speed, in which physical model tests are carried out to measure the motion of the largest wave crest along the wave tank. The linear regression relationship between the spatial position of the largest wave crest and instantaneous moment is established to calculate the speed of totally 248 cases of experimental freak waves and 312 supplementary cases of numerical freak waves. Based on the calculate results, a semitheoretical and semiempirical formula is proposed by using a regression analysis method to predict the speed of the freak wave, and the nonlinear characteristic of the freak wave speed is also investigated.  相似文献   

20.
The spectral properties of nonlinear drag forces of random waves on vertical circular cylinders are analyzed in this paper by means of nonlinear spectral analysis. The analysis provides basic parameters for estimation of the characteristic drag forces. Numerical computation is also performed for the investigation of the effects of nonlinearity of the drag forces.The results indicate that the wave drag forces calculated by linear wave theory are larger than those calculated by the third order Stokes wave theory for given waves. The difference between them increases with wave height. The wave drag forces calculated by use of hnear approximation are about 5% smaller than their actual values when measured in the peak values of spectral densities. This will result in a safety problem for the design of offshore structures. Therefore, the nonlinear effect of wave drag forces should be taken into comidemtion in design and application of important offshore structures.  相似文献   

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