共查询到20条相似文献，搜索用时 31 毫秒
1.
Fractional energy losses of waves due to wave breaking when passing over a submerged bar are studied systematically using a modified numerical code that is based on the high-order Boussinesq-type equations.The model is first tested by the additional experimental data,and the model's capability of simulating the wave transformation over both gentle slope and steep slope is demonstrated.Then,the model's breaking index is replaced and tested.The new breaking index,which is optimized from the several breaking i... 相似文献
2.
Laboratory experiments were conducted to investigate the evolution of interfacial internal solitary waves(ISWs) incident on a triangular barrier. ISWs with different amplitudes were generated by gravitational collapse. The ISW energy dissipation and turbulence processes were calculated as waves passed over the triangular barrier. Experimental results showed that ISWs were reflecting back off the triangular barrier, and shoaling ISWs led to wave breaking and mixing when waves propagated over the obstacle. Wave instability created the dissipation of energy as it was transmitted from waves to turbulence. The rate of ISW energy dissipation, the maximum turbulent dissipation, and the buoyancy diffusivity linearly increased with the increase in the incident wave energy. 相似文献
3.
Transforming wave heights from offshore to the shoreline is the first step of any coastal engineering work. Wave breaking is analyzed to understand hydrodynamic conditions. For vertical breakwaters and sea walls, wave reflection is an important process that affects the determination of the wave height. Many of the design formulas presented in the literature depend on empirical studies based on the structures tested. In this study, the hydrodynamic conditions in front of a vertical wall with an overhanging horizontal cantilever slab with a foreshore slope of 1/20 are determined experimentally under regular wave conditions to assess the applicability of the formulas of Goda (2000) for predicting the nearshore wave height and breaker index equation (Goda, 2010). The selection of wave measurements used to determine the design wave height, the reflection coefficients, and wave breaking is also analyzed, and the reflection equations are derived from the dataset covering different breaker types. Small-scale tests show that the incident wave height is a good representative of the design wave height and that the values predicted by Goda are in good agreement with actual measurements. However, the predicted Hmax values are overestimated. In addition, the inception of the wave breaking point is postponed because of the reflection and/or turbulence left over from preceding waves, which is an effect of the vertical wall. At higher water levels, the effect of the vertical wall on the inception point becomes more significant. 相似文献
4.
ZHENGGuizhen SHENGLifang CONGPeixiu 《中国海洋大学学报(英文版)》2004,3(2):123-128
A mechanism is suggested in this paper concerning the effect of non-uniform current on the spectrum of short wind waves. According to this mechanism, a non-uniform current brings changes to the breaking criteria of short wind waves through modulating the surface drift, and hence enhances or weakens wave breaking. Some modification is proposed to the source term, which represents the spectral rate of wave energy dissipation due to wave breaking so that the source term can incorporate this mechanism. In order to illustrate whether this mechanism is significant, a real case is studied, in which the wind waves propagate on a tidal current flowing over the sea bottom covered with sand waves. Finally, the effect of the new mechanism on the equilibrium spectrum of small scale gravity waves is discussed. Numerical estimates suggest that, for water depths less than 50 m and wavelengths less than 1 m, this current field may result in distinct spatial variations of the wave breaking criteria, the spectral rate of wave energy dissipation and the equilibrium spectrum of short gravity waves. 相似文献
5.
The effect of ocean wave breaking as a non-Bragg mechanism on backscattering cross-section and modulation transfer functions (MTF) of radar was investigated based on Bragg resonance theory and parametric method. The result showed that the additional effect of wave breaking on backscattering cross-section is not more than 20% except for the small incident angle of VV polarized electromagnetic (e.m.) wave but is significant for HH polarized e.m. wave. Breaking waves lead to increase in the modulus of tilt modulation MTF and the larger the wind speed, the faster the increase. For large incident angle, the modulus of tilt modulation MTF with wave breaking decreases quickly with incident angle for HH polarization and approach to that without wave breaking for VV polarization. The hydrodynamic MTF increases 30%-60% when considering wave breaking and the increase is larger for HH polarization than for VV polarization. 相似文献
6.
《中国海洋湖沼学报》2019,(6)
Accurate estimation of wave uplift force is essential to the designs of reliable coastal and marine structures. We presents a series of laboratory work here on the impact of regular waves on horizontal panels, from which an empirical formula to estimate accurately the wave uplift force on panels is established. The laboratory measurements show that the wave uplift force depends mainly on the incident wave height, the wave period, the wave length, the panel width, and the clearance between the subsurface of the panel and the still water level. Among these factors, the impact of the panel width on uplift forces is relatively complicated. Result shows that the relative panel width(i.e., the ratio of panel width to wave length) plays a more important role in estimating the wave uplift force. Based on our comprehensive laboratory measurements, we further developed an empirical formula to compute wave uplift force on horizontal panels through dimensionless analysis. Compared with other empirical formulas, this formula uses dimensionless variables of clear physical meanings, thus can describe the interaction between waves and the panels in a better way. In addition, the efficiency of the formula to estimate wave uplift force on horizontal panels is verified against existing works. Therefore, the findings in this study shall be useful for understanding the mechanism of wave uplift force on horizontal panels and numerical model validation. 相似文献
7.
The effect of ocean wave breaking as a non-Bragg mechanism on backscattering cross-section and modulation transfer functions （MTF） of radar was investigated based on Bragg resonance theory and parametric method. The result showed that the additional effect of wave breaking on backscattering cross-section is not more than 20% except for the small incident angle of VV polarized electromagnetic （e.m.） wave but is significant for HH polarized e.m. wave. Breaking waves lead to increase in the modulus of tilt modulation MTF and the larger the wind speed, the faster the increase. For large incident angle, the modulus of tilt modulation MTF with wave breaking decreases quickly with incident angle for HH polarization and approach to that without wave breaking for VV polarization. The hydrodynamic MTF increases 30%-60% when considering wave breaking and the increase is larger for HH polarization than for VV polarization. 相似文献
8.
An investigation of the effects of a uniform current strength direction (following or opposing wave propagation) on the nonlinear transformation of irregular waves over a submerged trapezoidal sill is carried out using SWASH, a non-hydrostatic numerical wave model. The nonlinear parameters (i.e., asymmetry, skewness, and kurtosis) are calculated, and the empirical formulas for these parameters are presented as a function of the local Ursell number based on the present numerical data measured. In the shoaling area of the submerged sill, the nonlinear characteristics of waves are more obvious when waves propagate in the same direction as the currents than when waves propagate in the opposite direction. Whereas nonlinear parameters grow with the strengthening of the following currents over the crest, they tend to decrease as the adverse current velocity increases over the crest area of the submerged sill. 相似文献
9.
Resonance due to critical slope makes the internal wave generation more effectively than that due to supercritical or subcritical slopes(Zhang et al., 2008). Submarine ridges make a greater contribution to ocean mixing than continental margins in global oceans(Müller, 1977; Bell, 1975; Baines, 1982; Morozov, 1995). In this paper, internal wave generation driven by tidal flow over critical topography is examined in laboratory using Particle Image Velocimetry(PIV) and synthetic schlieren methods in synchrony. Non-tidal baroclinic velocities and vertical isopycnal displacements are observed in three representative regions, i.e., critical, outward-propagating, and reflection regions. Temporal and spatial distributions of internal wave rays are analyzed using the time variations of baroclinic velocities and vertical isopycnal displacement, and the results are consistent with those by the linear internal wave theory. Besides, the width of wave beam changes with the outward propagation of internal waves. Finally, through monitoring the uniformly-spaced 14 vertical profiles in the x-z plane, the internal wave fields of density and velocity fields are constructed. Thus, available potential energy, kinetic energy and energy fluxes are determined quantitatively. The distributions of baroclinic energy and energy fluxes are confined along the internal wave rays. The total depth averaged energy and energy flux of vertical profiles away from a ridge are both larger than those near the ridge. 相似文献
10.
The propagation of long-waves, such as tidal waves from the coastal oceam into shallow estuarine waters,often produces asymmetries of veolcity and water level in time series resulting in long-wave breaking.Tian (1994) studied the mechanism of long-wave breaking in an infinite channel with constant depth,considering nth power bottom friction. This study is for the case of a half infinite channel with bottomslope, taking linear bottom friction into account. The wave breaking time and wave breaking location areestimated and the criteria for long-wave breaking in this particular case are obtained. The results obtainedcan also be e asily applied to the case considering wind stress. 相似文献
11.
The propagation of long-waves, such as tidal waves from the coastal ocean into shallow estuarine waters, often produces asymmetries
of velocity and water level in time series resulting in long-wave breaking. Tian (1994) studied the mechanism of long-wave
breaking in an infinite channel with constant depth, consideringnth power bottom friction. This study is for the case of a half infinite channel with bottom slope, taking linear bottom friction
into account. The wave breaking time and wave breaking location are estimated and the criteria for long-wave breaking in this
particular case are obtained. The results obtained can also be easily applied to the case considering wind stress. 相似文献
12.
This study examines oblique wave motion over multiple submerged porous bars in front of a vertical wall. Based on linear potential theory, an analytical solution for the present problem is developed using matched eigenfunction expansions. A complex dispersion relation is adopted to describe the wave elevation and energy dissipation over submerged porous bars. In the analytical solution, no limitations on the bar number, bar size, and spacing between adjacent bars are set. The convergence of the analytical solution is satisfactory, and the correctness of the analytical solution is confirmed by an independently developed multi-domain BEM (boundary element method) solution. Numerical examples are presented to examine the reflection and transmission coefficients of porous bars, C R and C T , respectively, for engineering applications. The calculation results show that when the sum of widths for all the porous bars is fixed, increasing the bar number can significantly improve the sheltering function of the bars. Increasing the bar height can cause more wave energy dissipation and lower C R and C T . The spacing between adjacent bars and the spacing between the last bar and the vertical wall are the key parameters affecting C R and C T . The proposed analytical method may be used to analyze the hydrodynamic performance of submerged porous bars in preliminary engineering designs. 相似文献
13.
Wave breaking is an important process that controls turbulence properties and fluxes of heat and mass in the upper oceanic layer.A model is described for energy dissipation per unit area at the ocean surface attributed to wind-generated breaking waves,in terms of ratio of energy dissipation to energy input,windgenerated wave spectrum,and wave growth rate.Also advanced is a vertical distribution model of turbulent kinetic energy,based on an exponential distribution method.The result shows that energy dissipation rate depends heavily on wind speed and sea state.Our results agree well with predictions of previous works. 相似文献
14.
Surface waves comprise an important aspect of the interaction between the atmosphere and the ocean, so a dynamically consistent framework for modelling atmosphere-ocean interaction must take account of surface waves, either implicitly or explicitly. In order to calculate the effect of wind forcing on waves and currents, and vice versa, it is necessary to employ a consistent formula- tion of the energy and momentum balance within the airflow, wave field, and water column. It is very advantageous to apply sur- face-following coordinate systems, whereby the steep gradients in mean flow properties near the air-water interface in the cross-interface direction may be resolved over distances which are much smaller than the height of the waves themselves. We may account for the waves explicitly by employing a numerical spectral wave model, and applying a suitable theory of wave–mean flow interaction. If the mean flow is small compared with the wave phase speed, perturbation expansions of the hydrodynamic equations in a Lagrangian or generalized Lagrangian mean framework are useful: for stronger flows, such as for wind blowing over waves, the presence of critical levels where the mean flow velocity is equal to the wave phase speed necessitates the application of more general types of surface-following coordinate system. The interaction of the flow of air and water and associated differences in temperature and the concentration of various substances (such as gas species) gives rise to a complex boundary-layer structure at a wide range of vertical scales, from the sub-millimetre scales of gaseous diffusion, to several tens of metres for the turbulent Ekman layer. The bal- ance of momentum, heat, and mass is also affected significantly by breaking waves, which act to increase the effective area of the surface for mass transfer, and increase turbulent diffusive fluxes via the conversion of wave energy to turbulent kinetic energy. 相似文献
15.
浅水粗粒辫状河三角洲沉积微相特征与油气产能的关系--以焉耆盆地宝浪油田为例 总被引：9，自引：1，他引：8
谢辉 《地球科学与环境学报》2004,26(4):37-40
焉耆盆地宝浪油田含油气层段位于中生界下侏罗统三工河组(J1s)，为典型的浅水缓坡型粗粒辫状河三角洲-湖泊沉积体系。储层成分成熟度和结构成熟度低．粒度概率曲线以牵引和悬浮二段式为主，C—M图以PQ段和QR段为主，宝浪油田侏罗系三工河组划分出12种有成因意义的岩石相，采用Coleman的方案将浅水辫状河三角洲划分为：上三角洲平原(洪水线之上)、下三角洲平原(枯水线-洪水线之间)和水下三角洲平原(枯水线之下)3个亚相带。研究区主要发育了(水下)分流河道微相、水下分流河道间微相、决口水道(扇)微相、溢流沉积微相、滨湖沼泽沉积微相，河口坝微相不发育。(水下)分流河道微相占研究区储层的90％以上，根据砂体的岩石相组合、冲刷程度、水流能量大小的变化规律，其又可分为：充填河道、废弃河道、进积河道3种基本类型。储层物性以废弃河道为最好，单井油气产能亦最高，充填河道次之，进积河道和决口水道(扇)则相对较差。 相似文献
16.
In a two-dimensional and linear framework, a transformation was developed to derive eigensolutions of internal waves over a subcritical hyperbolic slope and to approximate the continental slope and shelf. The transformation converts a hyperbolic slope in physical space into a flat bottom in transform space while the governing equations of internal waves remain hyperbolic. The eigensolutions are further used to study the evolution of linear internal waves as it propagates to subcritical continental slope and shelf. The stream function, velocity, and vertical shear of velocity induced by internal wave at the hyperbolic slope are analytically expressed by superposition of the obtained eigensolutions. The velocity and velocity shear increase as the internal wave propagates to a hyperbolic slope. They become very large especially when the slope of internal wave rays approaches the topographic slope, which is consistent with the previous studies. 相似文献
17.
The state-of-the-art OpenFOAM technology is used to develop a numerical model that can be devoted to numerically investigating wake-collapse internal waves generated by a submerged moving body.The model incorporates body geometry,propeller forcing,and stratification magnitude of seawater.The generation mechanism and wave properties are discussed based on model results.It was found that the generation of the wave and its properties depend greatly on the body speed.Only when that speed exceeds some critical value,between 1.5 and 4.5 m/s,can the moving body generate wake-collapse internal waves,and with increases of this speed,the time of generation advances and wave amplitude increases.The generated wake-collapse internal waves are confirmed to have characteristics of the second baroclinic mode.As the body speed increases,wave amplitude and length increase and its waveform tends to take on a regular sinusoidal shape.For three linearly temperature-stratified profiles examined,the weaker the stratification,the stronger the wake-collapse internal wave. 相似文献
18.
This study gives an analytical solution for wave interaction with a partially reflecting vertical wall protected by a submerged porous bar based on linear potential theory. The whole study domain is divided into multiple sub-regions in relation to the structures. The velocity potential in each sub-region is written as a series solution by the separation of variables. A partially reflecting boundary condition is used to describe the partial reflection of a vertical wall. Unknown expansion coefficients in the series solutions are determined by matching velocity potentials among different sub-regions. The analytical solution is verified by an independently developed multi-domain boundary element method(BEM) solution and experimental data. The wave run-up and wave force on the partially reflecting vertical wall are estimated and examined, which can be effectively reduced by the submerged porous bar. The horizontal space between the vertical wall and the submerged porous bar is a key factor, which affects the sheltering function of the porous bar. The wave resonance between the porous bar and the vertical wall may disappear when the vertical wall has a low reflection coefficient. The present analytical solution may be used to determine the optimum parameters of structures at a preliminary engineering design stage. 相似文献
19.
Upper-ocean turbulent mixing plays a vital role in mediating air-sea fluxes and determining mixed-layer properties, but its energy source, especially that near the base of the mixed layer, remains unclear. Here we report a potentially significant yet rarely discussed pathway to turbulent mixing in the convective mixed layer. During convection, as surface fluid drops rapidly in the form of convective plumes, intense turbulence kinetic energy(TKE) generated via surface processes such as wave breaking is advected downward, enhancing TKE and mixing through the layer. The related power, when integrated over the global ocean except near the surface where the direct effect of breaking waves dominates, is estimated at O(1)TW, comparable to that required by maintaining the Meridional Overturning Circulation(MOC). The mechanism in question therefore deserves greater research attention, especially in view of the potential significance of its proper representation in climate models. 相似文献
20.
Reflection occurs when internal tides impact on a steep continental slope. Separating reflected internal tide signals from incident ones is crucial to develop the parameterization of internal tide-driven turbulent mixing on the continental slopes. In this study, the performances of three different methods for estimating internal tide reflections are examined by using two different cases. The Hilbert transform-based method is found to be more suitable than two other methods for both cases considered in this study. The two other methods are effective for westward-propagating mode-1 internal tides impacting a slope, but inappropriate in the case where internal tides radiate from a Gaussian ridge impact the slope because of their inaccurate estimation of incident internal tides in the latter case. Such inaccurate estimation further influences the extraction of reflected signals and calculation of the reflected and cross term of energy fluxes. In addition, it should be noted that, due to the use of filtering, the method based on Hilbert transform may result in slight bias when assessing the incident and reflected signals near topographic features. 相似文献