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1.
漂浮于自由水面的污染物的的迁移、扩散会受到天然随机海浪的影响。之前的研究(以Herterich和Hasselmann(1982)为代表)普遍认为,随机波浪作用下的斯托克司漂移速度会引起水面污染物的离散,这个离散甚至有可能跟风和海流引起的离散同一量级。本研究就随机波浪作用下的斯托克司漂移速度是否会引起水面漂移物的离散进行理论和试验探讨。从理论推导可知,随机波浪下的质量输移速度是个定常分量,因此它不会随时间变化而引起水面漂移物的离散。随后我们在实验室水槽中进行了漂移物在随机波浪(P-M谱)作用下的漂移过程的测量。试验结果也印证了随机波浪作用下的斯托克司漂移速度不会引起水面漂移物离散的结论。  相似文献   

2.
The method of asymptotic multiscale expansion is applied to determine the mean current velocity and density fields induced by a packet of internal waves. In the limiting case of a weakly non-linear plane wave, heat, salt, and impulse vertical transport is conditioned by the vertical component of the Stokes drift velocity, which is non-zero, when turbulent viscosity and diffusion are considered. As the wave period decreases, the wave fluxes of heat, salt, and impulse increase. In shallow waters, these fluxes become more vigorous and may be comparable to the respective turbulent flows or even to be more powerful. Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin.  相似文献   

3.
合成孔径雷达(SAR)海面场景原始数据仿真是研究海洋动力参数(表面波浪、风矢量和洋流)的有效工具。目前海面场景原始数据仿真方法已经基于逆Omega-K算法实现了海洋运动参数的空间变化。但是目前仅仅讨论了正侧视情况下的海面场景仿真,应用范围有限,同时没有考虑Stokes漂流以及Bragg相速度的影响,而这两者都是存在于真实海面的。通常情况下为了反演得到海面流场的二维速度矢量,雷达需要从两个不同的方位方向观察海面的同一个区域,因此这就需要考虑大斜视的雷达波束,同时Stokes漂流和Bragg相速度是SAR海表面流场观测不容忽视的两种运动。本文在不改变原有正侧视逆Omega-K算法的情况下,通过增加重新计算零方位时刻的斜视波束中心位置坐标,并据此确定SAR原始数据在多普勒域的位置来将其扩展到大斜侧视逆Omega-K算法,并通过时域Stokes漂流公式到频域内离散化Stokes漂流公式的推导来加入Stokes漂流,以及根据Bragg散射机制加入了Bragg相速度。仿真结果表明,经过聚焦成像后的SAR图像很好的体现了真实海面波浪场的形状,同时能够很好地反演出设定的雷达径向流场速度,且流速精度误差控制在6%以内。最后也证明了Bragg相速度以及Stokes漂流对于海面流场的影响不可忽视。  相似文献   

4.
The response of near-surface current profiles to wind and random surface waves are studied based on the approach of Jenkins [1989. The use of a wave prediction model for driving a near surface current model. Dtsch. Hydrogr. Z. 42, 134–149] and Tang et al. [2007. Observation and modeling of surface currents on the Grand Banks: a study of the wave effects on surface currents. J. Geophys. Res. 112, C10025, doi:10.1029/2006JC004028]. Analytic steady solutions are presented for wave-modified Ekman equations resulting from Stokes drift, wind input and wave dissipation for a depth-independent constant eddy viscosity coefficient and one that varies linearly with depth. The parameters involved in the solutions can be determined by the two-dimensional wavenumber spectrum of ocean waves, wind speed, the Coriolis parameter and the densities of air and water, and the solutions reduce to those of Lewis and Belcher [2004. Time-dependent, coupled, Ekman boundary layer solutions incorporating Stokes drift. Dyn. Atmos. Oceans. 37, 313–351] when only the effects of Stokes drift are included. As illustrative examples, for a fully developed wind-generated sea with different wind speeds, wave-modified current profiles are calculated and compared with the classical Ekman theory and Lewis and Belcher's [2004. Time-dependent, coupled, Ekman boundary layer solutions incorporating Stokes drift. Dyn. Atmos. Oceans 37, 313–351] modification by using the Donelan and Pierson [1987. Radar scattering and equilibrium ranges in wind-generated waves with application to scatterometry. J. Geophys. Res. 92, 4971–5029] wavenumber spectrum, the WAM wave model formulation for wind input energy to waves, and wave energy dissipation converted to currents. Illustrative examples for a fully developed sea and the comparisons between observations and the theoretical predictions demonstrate that the effects of the random surface waves on the classical Ekman current are important, as they change qualitatively the nature of the Ekman layer. But the effects of the wind input and wave dissipation on surface current are small, relative to the impact of the Stokes drift.  相似文献   

5.
This study investigates experimentally the drift velocity of an elliptical surface film advected by deep-water waves. Thin polyethylene sheets were used to simulate the inextensible surface film. The drift velocities were obtained by recording and analyzing a sequence of images captured using a video camera. The results show that the drift velocity increases with the longitudinal length of the polyethylene sheet until approximately 0.8 times the wavelength. Beyond that, further increment would not result in substantial increase in the drift velocity. The effect due to the normalized transverse width is found to be significant within a particular range. At large wave steepness, the drift velocity appears to be limited by the Stokes drift. A set of best-fit empirical equations based on the sigmoidal function is introduced for oil spill trajectory prediction.  相似文献   

6.
Bohai Sea oil spill model: a numerical case study   总被引:2,自引:0,他引:2  
An operational Bohai Sea oil spill serving module (BSOSSM) that can provide users with trajectory and movement information of the released oil is developed for the purpose of informing mitigation of oil spill incidents in the Bohai Sea, China. BSOSSM is one of the serving modules that had been integrated in China digital ocean prototype system, a marine information platform for managing, displaying and disseminating all the data investigated by China 908 Program. The oil spill trajectory is calculated by an oil spill model (OSM), which serves as a component in BSOSSM. The impacts of wind, current, as well as Stokes drift on oil spill trajectory are studied by sensitivity experiments conducted using OSM. Simulation results indicate that wind forcing is the most important factor in controlling the oil trajectory at the sea surface in Bohai Sea, whereas current and Stokes drift play relatively less important roles. However, because the direction of waves generally follows that of the wind, Stokes drift does lead to an increase in oil drift and spreading velocity. Case studies of the Penglai 19-3 oil spill incident (June 2011) and Xingang oil spill (April 2005) demonstrate that OSM can generally reproduce the oil spreading, and is therefore capable of supporting the emergency response of future oil spills in the Bohai Sea through BSOSSM.  相似文献   

7.
Shear Flow Dispersion Under Wave and Current   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1  
Sandeep  PATIL  A.  K.  RASTOGI  张庆河  Rajeev  MISRA  S.  K.  UKRANDE 《中国海洋工程》2007,21(4):549-560
The longitudinal dispersion of solute in open channel flow with short period progressive waves is investigated. The waves induce second order drift velocity in the direction of propagation and enhance the mixing process in concurrent direction. The 1-D wave-period-averaged dispersion equation is derived and an expression for the wave-current induced longitudinal dispersion coefficient (WCLDC) is proposed based on Fischer's expression (1979) for dispersion in unidirectional flow. The result shows that the effect of waves on dispersion is mainly due to the cross-sectional variation of the drift velocity. Furthermore, to obtain a more practical expression of the WCLDC, the longitudinal dispersion coefficient due to Seo and Cheong (1998) is modified to incluee the effect of drift velocity. Laboratory experiments have been conducted to verify the proposed expression. The experimental results, together with dimensional analysis, show that the wave effect can be reflected by the ratio between the wave amplitude and wave period. A comparative study between the cases with and without waves demonstrates that the magnitude of the longitudinal dispersion coefficient is increased under the presence of waves.  相似文献   

8.
Free internal waves are considered in a Boussinesq approximation in the situation when horizontal eddy viscosity and diffusion in a vertically inhomogeneous flow are taken into account. The dispersion relation and wave damping factor are found in a linear approximation. The Stokes drift velocity is determined in the second order of smallness based on the wave amplitude. It has been indicated that the Stokes drift velocity, transverse with respect to the wave propagation direction, differs from zero if the flow-rate transverse component depends on the vertical coordinate. Vertical momentum fluxes differ from zero and can be comparable with or exceed the corresponding turbulent fluxes if eddy viscosity and diffusion are taken into account.  相似文献   

9.
The structure of turbulence in the ocean surface layer is investigated using a simplified semi-analytical model based on rapid-distortion theory. In this model, which is linear with respect to the turbulence, the flow comprises a mean Eulerian shear current, the Stokes drift of an irrotational surface wave, which accounts for the irreversible effect of the waves on the turbulence, and the turbulence itself, whose time evolution is calculated. By analysing the equations of motion used in the model, which are linearised versions of the Craik–Leibovich equations containing a ‘vortex force’, it is found that a flow including mean shear and a Stokes drift is formally equivalent to a flow including mean shear and rotation. In particular, Craik and Leibovich’s condition for the linear instability of the first kind of flow is equivalent to Bradshaw’s condition for the linear instability of the second. However, the present study goes beyond linear stability analyses by considering flow disturbances of finite amplitude, which allows calculating turbulence statistics and addressing cases where the linear stability is neutral. Results from the model show that the turbulence displays a structure with a continuous variation of the anisotropy and elongation, ranging from streaky structures, for distortion by shear only, to streamwise vortices resembling Langmuir circulations, for distortion by Stokes drift only. The TKE grows faster for distortion by a shear and a Stokes drift gradient with the same sign (a situation relevant to wind waves), but the turbulence is more isotropic in that case (which is linearly unstable to Langmuir circulations).  相似文献   

10.
Spilled oil floats and travels across the water’s surface under the influence of wind, currents, and wave action. Wave-induced Stokes drift is an important physical process that can affect surface water particles but that is currently absent from oil spill analyses. In this study, two methods are applied to determine the velocity of Stokes drift, the first calculates velocity from the wind-related formula based upon a one-dimensional frequency spectrum, while the second determines velocity directly from the wave model that was based on a two-dimensional spectrum. The experimental results of numerous models indicated that: (1) oil simulations that include the influence of Stokes drift are more accurate than that those do not; (2) for medium and long-term simulations longer than two days or more, Stokes drift is a significant factor that should not be ignored, and its magnitude can reach about 2% of the wind speed; (3) the velocity of Stokes drift is related to the wind but is not linear. Therefore, Stokes drift cannot simply be replaced or substituted by simply increasing the wind drift factor, which can cause errors in oil spill projections; (4) the Stokes drift velocity obtained from the two-dimensional wave spectrum makes the oil spill simulation more accurate.  相似文献   

11.
The contribution of the steady drift force on a floating structure may arise from waves, wind and current. The component of the wave drift force may be due to the second-order diffraction theory or potential effect and may be due to the velocity squared force or viscous effect. The presence of current in waves increases the effect of the viscous force. The expressions for these terms for a vertical cylinder are derived and their relative importance is investigated. Plots are presented showing the regions where the viscous or potential drift force predominates. Experiments were conducted with both small and large diameter cylinders. The mean drift forces obtained in these tests are compared with the theory.  相似文献   

12.
The paper provides a simple analytical method which can be used to give estimates of the Stokes drift based on short-term variation of wave conditions. This is achieved by providing bivariate distributions of wave height and surface Stokes drift as well as wave height and volume Stokes transport for individual random waves within a sea state. The paper presents and discusses statistical aspects of these Stokes drift parameters, as well as examples of results corresponding to typical field conditions.  相似文献   

13.
基于Jenkins(1989)建立的包含Stokes漂流、风输入和波耗散影响的修正Ekman模型,采用Paskyabi等(2012)使用的推广的Donelan等(1987)中的谱和波耗散函数,并利用Paskyabi等(2012)中修正方法给出的包含高频波的风输入函数,在粘性不依赖于水深及粘性随深度线性变化的条件下,研究了包含高频毛细重力波的随机表面波对Stokes漂流和Song(2009)导出的波浪修正定常Ekman流解的影响。结果表明高频表面波使Stokes漂流在海表面剪切加强,对定常Ekamn流解的影响通常不能忽略,但对Ekman流场的角度偏转影响很小。最后,将考虑高频表面波尾谱影响所估算的定常Ekman流解与已有观测结果以及经典Ekman解进行了比对分析。  相似文献   

14.
Free inertia-gravity internal waves are considered in a two-dimensional vertically nonuniform flow in the Boussinesq approximation. The equation for vertical velocity amplitude includes complex factors caused by the gradient of the flow velocity component transverse to the wave-propagation direction; therefore, the eigenfunction and wave frequency are complex. It is shown that the decrement of damping (imaginary correction to the frequency) of 15-min internal waves is two orders of magnitude smaller than the wave frequency; i.e., the waves weakly damp. Vertical wave fluxes of heat and salt are nonzero due to the phase shift between fluctuations of the vertical velocity and temperature (salinity) different from π 2. The vertical component of the Stokes drift speed is also nonzero and contributed into the vertical transport.  相似文献   

15.
The experimental investigation of the run-up of periodic internal waves in a two-layer fluid on the coastal slope is performed in an open hydrochannel at the Physical Department of the Lomonosov Moscow State University. The waves are produced by a wave generator. We study the transformation of waves, the vertical structure of the field of velocities of mass transfer, and the behavior of the parameters of internal waves propagating over the sloping bottom. It is shown that the run-up and breaking of internal waves are accompanied by periodic emissions of portions of the heavier fluid from the bottom layer upward along the slope. The Stokes drift velocity changes its sign as a function of depth. Moreover, both the wave length (the horizontal distance between the neighboring crests) and the height of waves over the sloping bottom (the elevation of the crest over the slope along the vertical) decrease as the wave approaches the coast.  相似文献   

16.
利用海浪模式WWIII(Wave Watch III)2008年的模拟结果对海面Stokes漂流、Stokes输运、Stokes深度以及全球Langmuir数的年平均分布特征和季节平均分布特征分别进行了详细的研究与分析。结果表明,海面Stokes漂流和Stokes输运均呈现高纬度偏大的特征,以南极绕极流海域最为突出。全球大部分海域Stokes漂流影响深度在20 m以内,呈现大洋东部偏大,西部偏小的分布特征。全球大部分海域的混合作用是剪切不稳定性和Langmuir湍效应并存的状态,甚至有些海域是以Langmuir湍效应为主。因此,在进行大尺度的海洋数值模拟时,应该考虑波浪导致的混合效应。  相似文献   

17.
18.
Zhenhua Huang   《Ocean Engineering》2007,34(2):343-352
The Lagrangian surface drift current induced by surface gravity waves in a wave flume has been investigated experimentally by the particle tracking method. It was observed that in most regions of the flume, the time-mean surface drift current was in the opposite direction to that of the wave propagation. The secondary current in the form of a pair of longitudinal vortices caused by the lateral boundaries was analyzed. It is suggested that the convection of the vorticity generated by the wave-absorber and the lateral boundaries is an important factor in the determination of the time-mean drift in a wave flume.  相似文献   

19.
田海平  陈雷  王维  辛立彪 《海洋学报》2021,43(12):92-101
离岸流是近岸流的重要组成部分,当波浪受到特殊海滩地形的影响,会形成一股沿着离岸方向运动的高速水流,能够迅速将人带离海岸,对海滨安全造成威胁。为了深入探究离岸流的形成机理及水动力学特性,本文基于二阶Stokes波浪理论,采用了更为光滑的变截面沙坝模型,通过流体体积法捕捉自由液面,对离岸流进行三维数值模拟探究。本文重点分析了离岸流产生时流场的瞬时速度、时均速度、压强等不同参量的分布规律,结果显示在沙坝和海岸线之间,有一对方向相反的水循环体系;对比不同流层离岸流的速度,了解到波浪与离岸流的耦合作用;并探究了入射波波高对离岸流强度及分布区域的影响,深化了对离岸流水动力学过程的认识。  相似文献   

20.
The conditions for energy flux, momentum flux and the resulting streaming velocity are analysed for standing waves formed in front of a fully reflecting wall. The exchange of energy between the outer wave motion and the near bed oscillatory boundary layer is considered, determining the horizontal energy flux inside and outside the boundary layer. The momentum balance, the mean shear stress and the resulting time averaged streaming velocities are determined. For a laminar bed boundary layer the analysis of the wave drift gives results similar to the original work of Longuet–Higgins from 1953. The work is extended to turbulent bed boundary layers by application of a numerical model. The similarities and differences between laminar and turbulent flow conditions are discussed, and quantitative results for the magnitude of the mean shear stress and drift velocity are presented. Full two-dimensional simulations of standing waves have also been made by application of a general purpose Navier–Stokes solver. The results agree well with those obtained by the boundary layer analysis. Wave reflection from a plane sloping wall is also investigated by using the same numerical model and by physical laboratory experiments. The phase shift of the reflected wave train is compared with theoretical and empirical models.  相似文献   

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