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1.
Deposits of late‐Holocene beach sand buried conifer forests episodically emerge on beaches of the Oregon coast. Simultaneously, sand dunes buried late‐Holocene forests growing on marine terraces landward of the beaches. Dune ramps, up to 60 m in elevation, connected the beach and dune deposits. The average age of wood samples from stumps rooted on the shore platforms is 3·07 ± 1·45 ka. The average age of wood and charcoal samples embedded in forest soil on the marine terraces is 3·27 ± 1·46 ka. Between 1994 and 2006, winter storm waves exposed more than 4·5 km2 of late‐Holocene forest soil on shore platforms at 19 localities. Rooted stumps without soil were uncovered at an additional 14 localities. Once exposed, wave action eroded the soil rapidly (one to two years). The intact forest soil and roots on the shore platforms must have been nearly continuously buried, protected and preserved prior to recent exposure. The late‐Holocene buried forest provides the basis for a conceptual model of coastal evolution. A three stage reversal of erosion and sand supply must have occurred: (1) wave erosion switched to seaward advancement of forests, (2) forest growth and soil development switched to burial beneath beach and dune sand and (3) burial and preservation switched to wave erosion, truncation of dune ramps and landward retreat of sea cliffs. Copyright © 2006 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

2.
This paper examines the morphology and processes governing the development of shore platforms at Lake Waikaremoana, North Island, New Zealand. Shore platforms at Lake Waikaremoana are recent features, and were formed when a new sequence of shoreline development was initiated, due to lowering of the lake by 5 m in 1946 for hydroelectric power development. Three predominant platform morphologies were identified around the lake. These include gently sloping platforms (c.1·5 to 3·9°), ramp platforms (c.6·8 to 9·2°), and concave ramp platforms (c.7·9 to 12°). Platform widths ranged from 11 to 31 m, with the gently sloping platforms characterized by the widest morphologies. Erosion rates were estimated using perched sandstone boulders and were found to range from 3·4 to 12·5 mm a?1, with a mean erosion rate of 5·9 mm a?1. Higher rates of erosion were identified at lower platform elevations, due to a greater frequency of wetting and drying cycles coincident with storm waves, while lower erosion rates were identified at higher elevations. Field evidence suggests that shore platforms at Lake Waikaremoana were likely initiated and continue to develop as a result of subaerial wetting and drying cycles. Waves, coincident with fluctuating lake levels, play an important role by removing the weathered material from the platforms, and appear to control the width of the platforms. A conceptual model of platform development is presented, and analogies are drawn between this model, and the formation of shore platforms in oceanic environments. Copyright © 2002 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

3.
We describe the immediate impact of the 14 November 2016 Kaikōura magnitude 7.8 (Mw) earthquake on shore platforms and cliffs around Kaikōura Peninsula. The earthquake caused an instantaneous uplift of ~1.01 m of the peninsula. We resurveyed seven profiles previously used for erosion monitoring and observed changes in the configuration of the shoreline. The coseismic uplift has fundamentally changed the process regime operating on the platforms and altered the future trajectory of shore platform and cliff development. Our observations highlight the interplay of waves, weathering, biology and tectonics. At this location tectonism strongly modulates the process regime, driving instantaneous changes in morphology and altering rates and patterns of erosion. Finally, the uplift of the Kaikōura coast has implications for changing resilience to climate change and sea level rise. Copyright © 2017 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

4.
In this paper we use a numerical model to explore the relative dominance of two main processes in shore platform development: wave erosion; weathering due to wetting and drying. The modelling approach differs from previous work in several aspects, including: the way that it accounts for weathering arising from gradual surficial intertidal rock degradation; subtidal profile shape development; and the consideration of a broad erosion parameter space in which, at either end of the erosion spectrum, shore platform profiles are produced by waves or weathering alone. Results show that in micro‐tidal settings, wave erosion dominates the evolution of (i) shore platforms that become largely subtidal and (ii) sub‐horizontal shore platforms that have a receding seaward edge. Weathering processes dominate the evolution of sub‐horizontal shore platforms with a stable seaward edge. In contrast, sloping shore platforms in mega‐tidal settings are produced across the full range of the process‐dominance spectrum depending on the how the erosional efficacy of wave erosion and weathering are parameterized. Morphological feedbacks control the process‐dominance. In small tidal environments wave processes are strongly controlled by the presence/absence of an abrupt seaward edge, but this influence is much smaller in large tidal environments due to larger water depths particularly at high tides. In large tidal environments, similar shore platform profile geometries can be produced by either wave‐dominant or weathering‐dominant process regimes. Equifinality in shore platform development has been noted in other studies, but mainly in the context of smaller‐scale (centimetre to metre) erosion features. Here we draw attention to geomorphic equifinality at the scale of the shore platform itself. Progress requires a greater understanding of the actual mechanics of the process regimes operating on shore platforms. However, this paper makes a substantial contribution to the debate by identifying the physical conditions that allow clear statements about process dominance. © 2018 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

5.
This paper presents measured rates of erosion on shore platforms at Kaikoura Peninsula, South Island, New Zealand. Surface lowering rates were measured with a micro-erosion meter and traversing micro-erosion meter. The mean lowering rate for all shore platforms was 1·130 mm a−1. Differences in lowering rates were found between different platform types and lithologies. The rate of surface lowering on Type A (sloping) mudstone platforms was 1·983 mm a−1, and 0·733 mm a−1 on Type B mudstone platforms (subhorizontal). On limestone platforms the lowering rate was 0·875 mm a−1. A previously reported cross-shore pattern of surface lowering rates from Kaikoura was not found. Rates were generally higher on the landward margins and decreased in a seaward direction. Season is shown statistically to influence erosion rates, with higher rates during summer than winter. The interpretation given to this is that the erosive process is subaerial weathering in the form of wetting and drying and salt weathering. This is contrary to views of shore platform development that have favoured marine processes over subaerial weathering. Copyright © 1998 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

6.
Infragravity wave (IGW) transformation was quantified from field measurements on two shore platforms on New Zealand's east coast, making this the first study to describe the presence, characteristics and behaviour of IGWs on rock platform coasts. Data was collected using a cross‐shore array of pressure transducers during a 22 hour experiment on Oraka shore platform and a 36 hour experiment at Rothesay Bay shore platform. A low pass Fourier filter was used to remove gravity wave frequency oscillations, allowing separate analysis of IGWs and the full wave spectrum. Offshore IGW heights were measured to be 7 cm (Oraka) and 9 cm (Rothesay Bay), which were 21% (Oraka) and 7.5% (Rothesay Bay) the height of incident wave height. At the cliff toe, significant IGW height averaged 15 cm at Oraka and 13 cm at Rothesay Bay. This increase in IGW height over the platform during both experiments is attributed to shoaling of 40 to 55% over the last 50–60 m before the cliff toe, respectively. Shoaling across the platform was quantified as the change in IGW height from the platform edge to cliff toe, resulting in a maximum increase of 1·88 and 2·63 on Rothesay Bay and Oraka platforms. IGW height at the cliff toe showed a strong correlation with incident wave height. The proportional increase in IGW height shows a strong correlation to water level on each platform. The rate of shoaling of long period waves on the shallow, horizontal platforms increased at higher water levels resulting in a super elevation in water level at the cliff toe during high tide. Greater IGW shoaling was also observed on the wider (Oraka) shore platform. Results from this study show the first measurements of IGWs on shore platforms and identify long wave motion a significant process in a morphodynamic understanding of rock coast. Copyright © 2011 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

7.
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8.
Knowledge and understanding of shore platform erosion and tidal notch development in the tropics and subtropics relies mainly on short‐term studies conducted on recently deposited carbonate rocks, predominantly Holocene and Quaternary reef limestones and aeolianites. This paper presents erosion rates, measured over a 10 year period on notches and platforms developed on the Permian, Ratburi limestone at Phang Nga Bay, Thailand. In so doing it contributes to informing a particular knowledge gap in our understanding of the erosion dynamics of shore platform and tidal notch development in the tropics and subtropics – notch erosion rates on relatively hard, ancient limestones measured directly on the rock surface using a micro‐erosion meter (MEM) over time periods of a decade or more. The average intertidal erosion rate of 0.231 mm/yr is lower than erosion rates measured over 2–3 years on recent, weaker carbonate rocks. Average erosion rates at Phang Nga vary according to location and site and are, in rank order from highest to lowest: Mid‐platform (0.324 mm/yr) > Notch floor (0.289 mm/yr) > Rear notch wall (0.228 mm/yr) > Lower platform (0.140 mm/yr) > Notch roof (0.107 mm/yr) and Supratidal (0.095 mm/yr). The micro‐relief of the eroding rock surfaces in each of these positions exhibits marked differences that are seemingly associated with differences in dominant physical and bio‐erosion processes. The results begin to help inform knowledge of longer term shore platform erosion dynamics, models of marine notch development and have implications for the use of marine notches as indicators of changes in sea level and the duration of past sea levels. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

9.
The majority of shore platforms form in rocks that are characterised by layered stratigraphy and pervasive jointing. Plucking of weathered, joint and bed bounded blocks is an important erosion process that existing models of platform development do not represent. Globally, measuring platform erosion rates have focused on microscale (< 1 mm) surface lowering rather than mesoscale (0.1-1 m) block detachment, yet the latter appears to dominate the morphological development of discontinuity rich platforms. Given the sporadic nature of block detachment on platforms, observations of erosion from storm event to multi-decadal timescales (and beyond) are required to quantify shore platform erosion rates. To this end, we collected aerial photography using an unmanned aerial vehicle to produce structure-from-motion-derived digital elevation models and orthophotos. These were combined with historical aerial photographs to characterise and quantify the erosion of two actively eroding stratigraphic layers on a shore platform in Glamorgan, south Wales, UK, over 78-years. We find that volumetric erosion rates vary over two orders of magnitude (0.1-10 m3 yr-1) and do not scale with the length of the record. Average rates over the full 78-year record are 2-5 m3 yr-1. These rates are equivalent to 1.2-5.3 mm yr-1 surface lowering rates, an order of magnitude faster than previously published, both at our site and around the world in similar rock types. We show that meso-scale platform erosion via block detachment processes is a dominant erosion process on shore platforms across seasonal to multi-decadal timescales that have been hitherto under-investigated. © 2019 The Authors. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd  相似文献   

10.
Shore platforms frequently exhibit steps or risers facing seaward, landwards or obliquely across‐shore. A combination of soft copy photogrammetry, ortho‐rectification, geo referencing and field measurement of step height are linked in a GIS environment to measure step retreat on chalk shore platforms at sample sites in the south of England over two periods, 1973–2001, 2001–2007. The methods used allow for the identification, delineation and measurement of historic change at high spatial resolution. The results suggest that while erosion of chalk shore platforms by step backwearing is highly variable, it appears to be of similar magnitude to surface downwearing of the same platforms measured by micro‐erosion meters (MEMs) and laser scanning, in a range equivalent to 0·0006 – 0·0050 m y?1 of surface downwearing. This equates to annual chalk volume loss from the platforms, by the two erosion processes combined, of between 0·0012 m3 m?2 and 0·0100 m3 m?2. Results from the more recent years' data suggests that step retreat has variability in both space and time which does not relate solely to climatic variability. The results must be viewed with caution until much larger numbers of measurements have been made of both downwearing and step erosion at higher spatial and temporal resolution. Copyright © 2010 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

11.
Pleistocene uplift of the Chilean coast is recorded by the formation of wave-cut platforms resulting from marine erosion during sea-level highstands. In the Altos de Talinay area (~ 31°S), we have identified a sequence of 5 wave-cut platforms. Using in situ produced 10Be exposure ages we show that these platforms were formed during interglacial periods at 6, 122, 232, 321 and 690 ka. These ages correspond to marine isotopic stages (MIS) or substages (MISS) 1, 5e, 7e, 9c and 17. Shoreline angle elevations used in conjunction with our chronology of wave-cut platform formation, illustrate that surface uplift rates vary from 103 ± 69 mm/ka between 122 and 6 ka, to 1158 ± 416 mm/ka between 321 and 232 ka. The absence of preserved platforms related to the MIS 11, 13 and 15 highstands likely reflects slow uplift rates during these times. We suggest that since 700 ka, the Altos de Talinay area was predominantly uplifted during 2 short periods following MIS 17 and MISS 9c. This episodic uplift of the Chilean coast in the Pleistocene may result from subduction related processes, such as pulses of tectonic accretion at the base of the forearc wedge.  相似文献   

12.
The shore platforms on Shag Point, southern New Zealand, are quasi‐horizontal surfaces and are developed between supratidal and low water spring levels. A range of morphologies occur, with more exposed platforms having a distinct low‐tide cliff, in contrast to low‐tide surfaces where the seaward edge is buried beneath rubble and macro‐algal growth. The platforms range in width from 20 to 80 m and are eroded into Late Cretaceous/Early Tertiary fine marine sandstones and mudstones. Shore platforms have formed in two principal lithological units: a homogeneous unit that is characterized by few discontinuities, and a fractured unit with joints spaced about 0·5 m apart. Rock hardness is low in both units (L‐type Schmidt hammer rebound values of 31 ± 4), and there is little systematic variation in values between the two units in which platforms have developed. Case‐hardened concretions within the sandstone are significantly harder than surrounding rock and cause local relief of metre scale as the spherical diagenetic features are eroded from the bedrock. They do not, however, appear to affect broad‐scale platform geometry. Joints within the bedrock are a primary control on platform elevation. Platforms formed in jointed rock occur at the lower portion of the intertidal zone, in contrast to platforms formed in unjointed bedrock, in which horizontal surfaces occur at or above mean high water spring tide level. Rock structure, therefore, appears to be the primary determinant factor of platform geometry at Shag Point. Copyright © 2006 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

13.
Holocene and Pleistocene tectonic deformation of the coast in the Mexico subudction margin is recorded by geomorphic and stratigraphic markers. We document the spatial and temporal variability of active deformation on the coastal Mexican subduction margin. Pleistocene uplift rates are estimated using wave-cut platforms at ca. 0.7?C0.9?m/ka on the Jalisco block coast, Rivera-North America tectonic plate boundary. We examine reported measurements from marine notches and shoreline angle elevations in conjunction with their radiocarbon ages that indicate surface uplift rates increasing during the Holocene up to ca. 3?±?0.5?m/ka. In contrast, steady rates of uplift (ca. 0.5?C1.0?m/ka) in the Pleistocene and Holocene characterize the Michoacan coastal sector, south of El Gordo graben and north of the Orozco Fracture Zone (OFZ), incorporated within the Cocos-North America plate boundary. Significantly higher rates of surface uplift (ca. 7?m/ka) across the OFZ subduction may reflect the roughness of subducting plate. Absence of preserved marine terraces on the coastal sector across El Gordo graben likely reflects slow uplift or coastal subsidence. Stratigraphic markers and their radiocarbon ages show late Holocene (ca. last 6?ka bp) coastal subsidence on the Guerrero gap sector in agreement with a landscape barren of marine terraces and with archeological evidence of coastal subsidence. Temporal and spatial variability in recent deformation rates on the Mexican Pacific coast may be due to differences in tectonic regimes and to localized processes related to subduction, such as crustal faults, subduction erosion and underplating of subducted materials under the southern Mexico continental margin.  相似文献   

14.
We investigate how waves are transformed across a shore platform as this is a central question in rock coast geomorphology. We present results from deployment of three pressure transducers over four days, across a sloping, wide (~200 m) cliff‐backed shore platform in a macrotidal setting, in South Wales, United Kingdom. Cross‐shore variations in wave heights were evident under the predominantly low to moderate (significant wave height < 1.4 m) energy conditions measured. At the outer transducer 50 m from the seaward edge of the platform (163 m from the cliff) high tide water depths were 8+ m meaning that waves crossed the shore platform without breaking. At the mid‐platform position water depth was 5 m. Water depth at the inner transducer (6 m from the cliff platform junction) at high tide was 1.4 m. This shallow water depth forced wave breaking, thereby limiting wave heights on the inner platform. Maximum wave height at the middle and inner transducers were 2.41 and 2.39 m, respectively, and significant wave height 1.35 m and 1.34 m, respectively. Inner platform high tide wave heights were generally larger where energy was up to 335% greater than near the seaward edge where waves were smaller. Infragravity energy was less than 13% of the total energy spectra with energy in the swell, wind and capillary frequencies accounting for 87% of the total energy. Wave transformation is thus spatially variable and is strongly modulated by platform elevation and the tidal range. While shore platforms in microtidal environments have been shown to be highly dissipative, in this macro‐tidal setting up to 90% of the offshore wave energy reached the landward cliff at high tide, so that the shore platform cliff is much more reflective. Copyright © 2017 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

15.
Few studies of wave processes on shore platforms have addressed the hydrodynamic thresholds that control wave transformation and energy dissipation, especially under storm conditions. We present results of a field experiment conducted during a storm on a sub‐horizontal shore platform on the east coast of Auckland, New Zealand. Small (<0.5 m) locally generated waves typically occur at the field site, whereas during the experiment the offshore wave height reached 2.3 m. Our results illustrate the important control that platform morphology has on wave characteristics. At the seaward edge of the platform a scarp abruptly descends beneath low tide level. Wave height immediately seaward of the platform was controlled by the incident conditions, but near the cliff toe wave height on the platform was independent of incident conditions. Results show that a depth threshold at the seaward platform edge > 2.5 times the gravity wave height (0.05–0.33 Hz) is necessary for waves to propagate onto the platform without breaking. On the platform surface the wave height is a direct function of water depth, with limiting maximum wave height to water depth ratios of 0.55 and 0.78 at the centre of the platform and cliff toe, respectively. A relative ‘platform edge submergence’ (water depth/water height ratio) threshold of 1.1 is identified, below which infragravity (<0.05 Hz) wave energy dominates the platform energy spectra, and above which gravity waves are dominant. Infragravity wave height transformation across the platform is governed by the relative platform edge submergence. Finally, the paper describes the first observations of wave setup on a shore platform. During the peak of the storm, wave setup on the platform at low tide (0.21 m) is consistent with measurements from planar sandy beaches, but at higher tidal stages the ratio between incident wave height and maximum setup was lower than expected. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

16.
Increases in the frequency and magnitude of extreme water levels and storm surges are correlated with known indices of climatic variability (CV), including the El Niño Southern Oscillation (ENSO) and the Pacific Decadal Oscillation (PDO), along some areas of the British Columbia coast. Since a shift to a positive PDO regime in 1977, the effects of ENSO events have been more frequent, persistent, and intense. Teleconnected impacts include more frequent storms, higher surges, and enhanced coastal erosion. The response of oceanographic forcing mechanisms (i.e. tide, surge, wave height, wave period) to CV events and their role in coastal erosion remain unclear, particularly in western Canada. As a first step in exploring the interactions between ocean–atmosphere forcing and beach–dune responses, this paper assembles the historic erosive total water level (TWL) regime and explores relations with observed high magnitude storms that have occurred in the Tofino‐Ucluelet region (Wickaninnish Bay) on the west coast of Vancouver Island, British Columbia, Canada. Extreme events where TWL exceeded an erosional threshold (i.e. elevation of the beach–foredune junction) of 5·5 m aCD are examined to identify dominant forcing mechanisms and to classify a regime that describes erosive events driven principally by wave conditions (61·5%), followed by surge (21·8%), and tidal (16·7%) effects. Furthermore, teleconnections between regional CV phenomena, extreme storm events and, by association, coastal erosion, are explored. Despite regional sea level rise (eustatic and steric), rapid crustal uplift rates have resulted in a falling relative sea level and, in some sedimentary systems, shoreline progradation at rates approaching +1·5 m a–1 over recent decades. Foredune erosion occurs locally with a recurrence interval of approximately 1·53 years followed by rapid rebuilding due to high onshore sand supply and often in the presence of large woody debris and rapidly colonizing vegetation in the backshore. Copyright © 2012 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

17.
Shore platforms control wave energy transformation which, in turn, controls energy delivery to the cliff toe and nearshore sediment transport. Insight into shore platform erosion rates has conventionally been constrained at millimetre-scales using micro-erosion metres, and at metre-scales using cartographic data. On apparently slowly eroding coasts, such approaches are fundamentally reliant upon long-term observation to capture emergent erosion patterns. Where in practise timescales are short, and where change is either below the resolution or saturates the mode of measurement, the collection of data that enables the identification of the actual mechanisms of erosion is hindered. We developed a method to monitor shore platform erosion at millimetre resolution within metre-scale monitoring plots using Structure-from-Motion photogrammetry. We conducted monthly surveys at 15 0.25 m2 sites distributed across the Hartle Loup platform in North Yorkshire, UK, over one year. We derived topographic data at 0.001 m resolution, retaining a vertical precision of change detection of 0.001 m. We captured a mean erosion rate of 0.528 mm yr-1, but this varied considerably both across the platform and through the year. We characterized the volume and shape of eroded material. The detachment volume–frequency and shape distributions suggest that erosion happens primarily via removal of shale platelets. We identify that the at-a-point erosion rate can be predicted by the distance from the cliff and the tidal level, whereby erosion rates are higher closer to the cliff and at locations of higher tidal duration. The size of individual detachments is controlled by local micro-topography and rock structure, whereby larger detachments are observed on more rough sections of the platform. Faster erosion rates and larger detachments occur in summer months, rather than in more energetic winter conditions. These results have the potential to form the basis of improved models of how platforms erode over both short- and long-timescales. © 2019 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

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20.
Multiple intertidal bars and troughs, often referred to as ‘ridges and runnels’, are significant features on many macrotidal sandy beaches. Along the coastline of England and Wales, they are particularly prevalent in the vicinity of estuaries, where the nearshore gradient is gentle and a large surplus of sediment is generally present. This paper examines the dynamics of such bar systems along the north Lincolnshire coast. A digital elevation model of the intertidal morphology obtained using LIDAR demonstrates that three to five intertidal bars are consistently present with a spacing of approximately 100 m. The largest and most pronounced bars (height = 0·5–0·8 m) are found around mean sea level, whereas the least developed bars (height = 0·2–0·5 m) occur in the lower intertidal zone. Annual aerial photographs of the intertidal bar morphology were inspected to try to track individual bars from year to year to derive bar migration rates; however, there is little resemblance between concurrent photographs, and ‘resetting’ of the intertidal profile occurs on an annual basis. Three‐dimensional beach surveys were conducted monthly at three locations along the north Lincolnshire coast over a one‐year period. The intertidal bar morphology responds strongly to the seasonal variation in the forcing conditions, and bars are least numerous and flattest during the more energetic winter months. Morphological changes over the monthly time scale are strongly affected by longshore sediment transport processes and the intertidal bar morphology can migrate along the beach at rates of up to 30 m per month. The behaviour of intertidal bars is complex and varies over a range of spatial and temporal scales in response to a combination of forcing factors (e.g. incident wave energy, different types of wave processes, longshore and cross‐shore sediment transport), relaxation time and morphodynamic feedback. Copyright © 2005 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

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