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1.
《Coastal Engineering》2007,54(6-7):539-553
Owing to intensified use of the coastal region and the frequent application of small-scale, tailored interventions such as beach nourishments, there is a growing need for coastal state information and knowledge on spatiotemporal scales of meters to kilometers and days to months. The design and implementation of engineering and management measures at these scales is hampered by limited predictability of their impact. Advanced, automated video stations open the door towards the collection of long-term, high-resolution data sets, which offer enhanced opportunities for the prediction of coastal processes at smaller scales. In this paper, the added value of high-resolution data sets for prediction purposes is explored. In particular the application of data-driven approaches as well as process models supported by video data are explored. In the data-driven approach, the inclusion of monthly video-derived data was found to not only improve confidence intervals on the predicted shoreline evolution, but also to facilitate the use of more sophisticated data extrapolation methods. Short-term, operational forecasts of the nearshore flow and sediment transport field were found to benefit from the inclusion of intertidal bathymetric data derived from video imagery. Though in its pioneering stage for video-based research, it is foreseen that significant advancement in prediction skill will be achieved through development of data-assimilation schemes which combine the best of existing process and empirical knowledge on coastal morphodynamics. 相似文献
2.
《Coastal Engineering》2007,54(6-7):507-521
This contribution proposes Coastal State Indicators (CSIs) for application to different aspects of recreational beach management. The beaches considered in this study are important leisure and tourism resources and of primary concern to the managers responsible is the recreational carrying capacity of the beach. Given the range of factors which potentially affect the carrying capacity this contribution is restricted to just two variables: the level of beach-use and safety. For each variable a detailed management framework is proposed together with a specific methodology to monitor appropriate CSIs. In all the cases, the proposed indicators make use of the capabilities of Argus video-cameras to record multi-purpose information in a single image. Specific algorithms are developed to deliver video-derived variables which are combined with supplementary data (e.g. wave and tide information) to yield beach management CSIs. The application of these CSIs is illustrated via two case studies. 相似文献
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《Coastal Engineering》2007,54(6-7):567-576
This contribution provides a critical review of the CoastView project; a research program designed to develop and quantify video-derived Coastal State Indicators (CSIs) which simplify various aspects of coastal zone management including, coastal protection, navigation and recreation. This paper aims to provide a guide to future applied research projects of this kind. The research program implemented a ‘frame of reference’ methodology in order to effectively match research outcomes to the needs of end users and to facilitate communication within a consortium comprising both scientists and end users of the technology. Data derived from coastal video systems played a crucial role in defining CSIs which form a central component of the ‘frame of reference’ process. In general coastal video systems were demonstrated to be a very effective coastal management tool in all of the areas under investigation, uniquely providing data with excellent spatial and temporal resolution and coverage. Additionally, the ‘frame of reference’ ensured the appropriate match of science to the needs of the end user. However, even given these significant advances, the transfer of useful methodologies to applied tools is not guaranteed. The importance of providing simple, robust tools for delivering CSIs simply and efficiently to the coastal manager at the appropriate time-scale was recognised; ideally this should be completed within the timeframe of the research program. The acceptance of new methodologies is greatly enhanced by demonstrating them alongside more established techniques and other data sources, clearly showing the advantages, reliability and accuracy of the new approach. 相似文献
5.
Sílvia C. Gonalves Pedro M. Anastcio Miguel A. Pardal Patrícia G.Cardoso Susana M. Ferreira Joo C. Marques 《Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science》2009,81(4):555-568
The structure of macrofaunal communities at two similar exposed sandy beaches on the western coast of Portugal was monitored for approximately 18 months by sampling all the beach area, from the shoreline to the base of the dunes. The beaches’ physical environment, as well as community density and composition, seasonal variations and the potential relationships between biological data and environmental parameters were studied. The two beaches had similar exposure to wave action, but differed in terms of sediment grain size, extent of the intertidal area, sediment moisture content and, especially, in the potential food availability in the form of allochthonous debris. Differences were observed with regard to the communities’ structure, namely regarding composition and relative contribution of the dominant species. Seasonality, especially temperature variations, and the interaction between seasons and the beach zones (supralittoral vs. intertidal) also had a strong influence on communities: controlling dominant species’ density and the horizontal distribution of the dominant species, and promoting a differential utilization of the beach by several resident macrofaunal animals. The present study allows the identification of key species in exposed sandy beaches of western Portugal and demonstrates that a steady community structure does not persist in the similarly exposed conditions observed, which may be mainly a response to distinct detritus subsidies, combined with differences in sediment grain size, sediment moisture content and extent of the intertidal area. 相似文献
6.
《Coastal Engineering》2007,54(6-7):523-537
Dynamic navigation channels, where sediment transport may change the geometry of the channel in short periods of time, are one of the most dangerous environments for ship navigation. The management of the navigation safety at these waterways requires a detailed monitoring program that provides accurate information regarding the sandbank and channel movements. In this paper the potential of video imaging techniques for managing dynamic navigation channels is explored. Small and large port management strategies are analyzed using Teignmouth and Santander ports as case studies. By means of the frame of reference [Van Koningsveld, 2003. Matching Specialist Knowledge with End User Needs. Ph.D. Thesis, Twente University, Enschede, The Netherlands. ISBN 90-365-1897-0.] a characterisation of the management of navigation issues is performed and several specific video-derived Coastal State Indicators (CSIs) are quantified. New algorithms for evaluating these CSIs are developed. In particular, new algorithms for identifying and locating navigation buoys and for the automatic detection of the shoreline (a proxy for the channel location) are presented and validated.In both cases (Teignmouth and Santander ports) the video system is proven to evaluate quantitative CSIs over a broad range of time-scales (hours to years) which cannot be obtained practically with traditional monitoring techniques. The techniques developed here deliver more information to port authorities; facilitating more informed management decisions regarding how, when, or where intervention is required and thus reducing the navigation risk to shipping. 相似文献
7.
This paper presents a fully automated procedure to derive the intertidal beach bathymetry on a daily basis from video images of low-sloping beaches that are characterised by the intermittent emergence of intertidal bars. Bathymetry data are obtained by automated and repeated mapping of shorelines from video time exposure images for different (tidal) water levels (Aarninkhof, S.G.J., Turner, I.L., Dronkers, T.D.T., Caljouw, M., Nipius, L., 2003. A video-based technique for mapping intertidal beach bathymetry. Coastal Engineering 49, 275–289; Plant, N.G. and Holman, R.A., 1997. Intertidal beach profile estimation using video images. Marine Geology 140, 1–24.). The developed procedure handles intelligent selection of a shoreline search area and unsupervised quality control of the obtained bathymetry data. The automatically retrieved beach bathymetries compare very well to bathymetries derived from the original manual mapping procedure and to ground truth data points (DGPS). 相似文献
8.
The coast at Caesarea, Israel, has been inhabited almost continuously for the last 2,400 years, and the archeological sites are today a major international tourist attraction. Because the sites straddle the shoreline, they are subject to constant damage by wave action, and must therefore be frequently restored. In this paper, local shoreline migrations over the last 200 years are investigated with the aim of distinguishing between natural and man-made coastal changes. In order to assess these changes accurately, geomorphological and sedimentological data were examined based on detailed beach profile measurements, bathymetric surveys, and grain-size analyses. In addition, series of old aerial photographs, as well as historical topographic maps and nautical charts were consulted. The results show that shoreline changes can be grouped into two main time periods. During the first period from 1862 to 1949 before the expansion of modern settlements, the position of the shoreline changed irregularly by up to 30 m. In the second period from 1949 onward, numerous coastal structures have been erected, and various coastal modifications have been carried out. The evaluation of the data suggests that human interventions have had relatively little effect on the overall position of the shoreline, as displacements ranged only from 5 to 18 m. Thus, coastal changes at Caesarea are predominantly due to natural wave action reflected in the heterogeneous geomorphological and sedimentological characteristics of the shore. This contradicts the common assumption that human activities are always mainly responsible for large-scale shoreline modifications in the region. It is concluded that, in order to implement meaningful mitigating countermeasures, coastal archeological sites need to be individually assessed with respect to the dominant factors causing local coastal change. 相似文献
9.
Sixty-one Global Positioning System (GPS), sub-aerial beach surveys were completed at 7 km long Ocean Beach, San Francisco, CA (USA), between April 2004 and March 2009. The five-year time series contains over 1 million beach elevation measurements and documents detailed changes in beach morphology over a variety of spatial, temporal, and physical forcing scales. Results show that seasonal processes dominate at Ocean Beach, with the seasonal increase and decrease in wave height being the primary driver of shoreline change. Storm events, while capable of causing large short-term changes in the shoreline, did not singularly account for a large percentage of the overall observed change. Empirical orthogonal function (EOF) analysis shows that the first two modes account for approximately three-quarters of the variance in the data set and are represented by the seasonal onshore/offshore movement of sediment (60%) and the multi-year trend of shoreline rotation (14%). The longer-term trend of shoreline rotation appears to be related to larger-scale bathymetric change. An EOF-based decomposition technique is developed that is capable of estimating the shoreline position to within one standard deviation of the range of shoreline positions observed at most locations along the beach. The foundation of the model is the observed relationship between the temporal amplitudes of the first EOF mode and seasonally-averaged offshore wave height as well as the linear trend of shoreline rotation. This technique, while not truly predictive because of the requirement of real-time wave data, is useful because it can predict shoreline position to within reasonable confidence given the absence of field data once the model is developed at a particular site. 相似文献
10.
The aim of this paper is to propose an integrated low cost system for monitoring the performance of beach defence works during storms. For this purpose, the site of Igea Marina, Northern Adriatic Sea, Italy, which is protected by low crested detached breakwaters, is selected. The monitoring system is composed by a video installation, for the identification of the shoreline position and of the intertidal bathymetry at high space and time resolution, and a 2DH numerical model, to reconstruct the hydrodynamics induced by coastal defenses. The accuracy of the monitoring system is verified against available measurements of waves and currents performed during a field campaign with acoustic Doppler profilers. Assimilation of data on the shoreline position in 2DH model operatively working is challenging in the improvement of the production of risk maps. These show the current intensities and flooded areas during forecasted storms. First promising results suggest the possibility of setting up an early warning tool. 相似文献
11.
P.S. Pereira L.J. Calliari R. Holman K.T. Holland R.M.C. Guedes C.K. Amorin P.G. Cavalcanti 《Marine Geology》2011,279(1-4):210-221
Besides the different scales within which coastal processes manifest their energy, the majority of the world's coastal regions exhibit forms of sediment heterogeneity that are physically significant. One example of a heterogeneous environment is Cassino beach, located at the southernmost part of Brazil, a fine-grain-sized sandy beach where fluid mud sporadically is transported to the nearshore and eventually onto the beach. At this site in 2005, as part of a field experiment, a video system was installed. Three years after the installation, a large mud transgression event took place in February 2008 and had 5 km of extension. In this context, the goal of the present work is to characterize the mud deposition pattern across the surf zone, describing the consequences of mud on nearshore dynamics using remote sensing techniques, beach profiles and suspended matter concentration. The surveyed beach profiles registered the deposition of fluid mud at the inner surf zone with concentrations up to 12 mg/l. The material was deposited close to the shoreline and had a cross-shore width of 100 m during the first deposition day occupying the entire water column. From surf zone time series of pixel intensity, it was possible to detect the attenuation of the surface wave spectra due to the presence of fluid mud. The combination of video techniques and field data allowed one to follow the formation of a double-layer system, where fluid mud overlays the sandy bottom. The video-based system at Cassino demonstrated that remote detection of fluid mud and quantification of its effect on the nearshore dynamics is feasible. The combination of beach profiles, measurements of suspended matter concentration and intensity timestacks allowed the analysis of the short-term evolution of the mud depositional processes. 相似文献
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《Coastal Engineering》2005,52(1):79-91
Long-term variations of shoreline positions along the southern Baltic coast were investigated using multichannel singular spectrum analysis (MSSA) to determine the most dominant long-term response patterns. The investigated beach is located at Lubiatowo on the Polish Coast and is mildly sloping with multiple bars. Data on coastal morphology have been collected at Lubiatowo including (1) bathymetric surveys since 1987 twice a year, and (2) beach topography surveys since 1983 every 4 weeks on the average, extending from the shoreline to the dune foot. Furthermore, several dedicated field campaigns have been carried out at Lubiatowo, as well as measurements of deep-water wave properties since 1998. MSSA was employed to the whole data set of shoreline position from all survey lines. In summary, three patterns emerged reproducing alongshore standing waves with different periods 7 to 8, 20+ and several decades. They represent long-term shoreline response, such that at some locations the longest wave is most predominant, at other locations the medium cycle predominates, whereas the shortest is the most prominent at yet other locations. However, all three can be detected at every location monitored, eliminating the confusion resulting from ordinary singular spectrum analysis (SSA) analysis, done previously for the same data set. 相似文献
14.
Amaia Ruiz de Alegría-Arzaburu Adrián Pedrozo-Acuña José M. Horrillo-Caraballo Gerhard Masselink Dominic E. Reeve 《Coastal Engineering》2010
This paper describes the application of Canonical Correlation Analysis (CCA) to derive forcing–response relations between the wave climate and shoreline position on a macrotidal gravel barrier located in the southwest of the U.K., and to develop a tool to determine shoreline positions from wave records. The data sequences comprise wave climate recorded by a nearshore directional wave buoy and video-derived shorelines over a time span of one year and a half. The hydrodynamic conditions are used to determine the probability density function of wave heights and alongshore energy fluxes. These are then related to shoreline change through a CCA analysis. The CCA analysis identifies patterns of behaviour of the wave conditions and the shoreline position, and the relation between both patterns is found to provide useful information about the beach response to wave action. The analysis shows that the movement of sediment is greater at the southern end of the study area and that there is an immediate shoreline response to the wave action. In the case of coastal management it is more often the case that wave forecasts are available on a routine basis. The ability of the CCA to provide useful estimates of shorelines from wave conditions was tested by using measured waves to calculate the corresponding shoreline position from additional data at the end of the sequences. Shoreline positions determined with the CCA agreed well with the measured ones. Thus, the CCA is found to be a useful tool to determine unknown shoreline positions and support effective coastal management if good quality hydrodynamic and morphological data are available to input into the initial set-up of the technique. 相似文献
15.
A diagnostic of coastal erosion and shoreline retreat occurring at a 7-km long sandy beach (Littoral Cell III) located in Todos Santos Bay (Baja California, Mexico) is performed trough the analysis of aerial photographs. Around 82,000 m2 of this sandy beach have been lost in a 20 year period (1985–2005), at a beach loss rate of 2,100 m2 per year. This indicates that coastal erosion is becoming a hazard to human lives and coastal infrastructure. Due to the latter, the implementation of a Shoreline Erosion Management Plan (SEMP) is proposed as the best management approach to deal with the problem. The Littoral Cell III SEMP considers four core policies, eight management strategies and a group of specific measures. 相似文献
16.
华南砂质海滩的动力地貌分析 总被引：12，自引：3，他引：12
为探讨华南砂质海滩的动力地貌学特征,对不同地理岸段不同地貌形态的8 个沙滩剖面于冬、夏季进行现场重复调查和室内分析工作.据此,通过对华南海岸带地质构造、地貌和现代海岸动力环境地域变化的分析,将华南沿海砂质海岸划分为岬湾岸、沙坝-潟湖岸和夷直岸三种基本海岸地貌类型,并且从滩面倾向、海岸动力环境影响、季节冲淤变化趋势和滩面沉积物粒径、坡度的动力响应等方面探讨砂质海滩的动力地貌,得出其受制于多种环境因素的影响,其中地质构造背景和海平面变化为大尺度的砂质海岸地貌的发育奠定了基础,而全新世海侵海平面相对稳定后,海岸动力条件的塑造起着决定性的影响,浪潮作用指数是其中重要的影响指标. 相似文献
17.
为加强对江苏省海岸带的保护和开发利用,文章基于卫星遥感影像,通过提取瞬时水边线和推算潮位特征线,分析1984—2016年江苏省海岸线和沿海滩涂的变迁。研究结果表明:江苏省自然岸线逐渐减少,人工岸线大幅增加,海岸线明显向海推进;淤长岸段主要分布在辐射沙洲北翼的射阳河口至川东港南,冲刷岸段主要分布在废黄河三角洲的灌河口北至中山河口南和扁担河口北至双洋河口南,全省海岸淤长长度和平均淤长速率均大幅下降;沿海各地的潮间带平均宽度均有不同程度的缩短,滩涂围垦强度大是重要影响因素。 相似文献
18.
Beach Wizard: Nearshore bathymetry estimation through assimilation of model computations and remote observations 总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3
Ap van Dongeren Nathaniel Plant Anna Cohen Dano Roelvink Merrick C. Haller Patricio Cataln 《Coastal Engineering》2008,55(12):1016-1027
A data–model assimilation method (called “Beach Wizard”) is presented with which the nearshore subtidal bathymetry can be accurately estimated based on video-derived observations of wave roller dissipation and variation of the intertidal shoreline, and/or radar-derived observations of wave celerity. Using many consecutive images, these observed properties are compared with numerical model results, and through a simple, optimal least-squares estimator approach the estimated bathymetry is adjusted gradually for each image in order to improve the fit between model output and observations. The key advantages of the technique are that it is based on multiple sources of information (i.e., different remote sensors and/or data products), depends on only a few free parameters (to which the model results are insensitive), and shows good skill. Herein, the technique is applied to a synthetic case and two sets of field data from sites at Duck, NC (USA) and Egmond (The Netherlands). The method, which may be extended with observations of other properties from other sources than the three described in this paper, can deliver coastal state information (i.e., simultaneous updates of bathymetry, waves, and currents) with high temporal and spatial resolution and can be used in conjunction with or instead of in-situ measured data. 相似文献
19.
In a closely integrated system, (sub-) littoral sandy sediments, sandy beaches, and sand dunes offer natural coastal protection for a host of environmentally and economically important areas and activities inland. Flooding and coastal erosion pose a serious threat to these environments, a situation likely to be exacerbated by factors associated with climate change. Despite their importance, these sandy ‘soft’ defences have been lost from many European coasts through the proliferation of coastal development and associated hard-engineering and face further losses due to sea-level rise, subsidence, storm surge events, and coastal squeeze. As part of the EU-funded THESEUS project we investigated the critical drivers that determine the persistence and maintenance of sandy coastal habitats around Europe's coastline, taking particular interest in their close link with the biological communities that inhabit them. The successful management of sandy beaches to restore and sustain sand budgets (e.g. via nourishment), depends on the kind of mitigation undertaken, local beach characteristics, and on the source of ‘borrowed’ sediment. We found that inter-tidal invertebrates were good indicators of changes linked to different mitigation options. For sand dunes, field observations and manipulative experiments investigated different approaches to create new dune systems, in addition to measures employed to improve dune stabilisation. THESEUS provides a ‘toolbox’ of management strategies to aid the management, restoration, and creation of sandy habitats along our coastlines, but we note that future management must consider the connectivity of sub-littoral and supra-littoral sandy habitats in order to use this natural shoreline defence more effectively. 相似文献
20.
Numerical study of shoreline changes by emergency beach nourishment project at the Middle Beach of Beidaihe, China 总被引：1，自引：1，他引：0
ZHANG Yu HE Lulu KUANG Cuiping PAN Yi GU Jie YANG Yanxiong ZHANG Jiabo 《海洋学报(英文版)》2012,31(1):125-133
Beach nourishment is a common coastal management strategy used to protect beach from erosion along the sandy coastlines. This method has been successfully applied to an emergency project at the West Beach of Beidaihe in the summer of 2008 and the full West Beach nourishment project in 2009-2010, which is the direct base of this study. Some basic information about the emergency engineering area at the Middle Beach is firstly described. The shoreline change of this area, including the analysis of beach width in five monitoring profiles in the bathing places of Middle Beach, is then discussed. After that a numerical model based on one-line theory is established and the numerical results agree well with the measured shorelines, which indicates that the model is appropriate and is qualified to predict the shoreline change of the Middle Beach. With the same model and parameters, long-term performance of the project is predicted, and the result shows that without follow-up nourishment and project, the bathing places can remain suitable for bathing for about 10 a. It is suggested to nourish the beach in time and carry out the beach nourishment project for the full Middle Beach in Beidaihe. 相似文献