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1.
Probably the largest regular shoreline fluctuations on Earth occur along the 1500 km-long wave-exposed Guianas coast of South America between the mouths of the Amazon and Orinoco Rivers, the world's longest muddy coast. The Guianas coast is influenced by a succession of mud banks migrating northwestward from the Amazon. Migrating mud banks dissipate waves, partially weld onshore, and lead to coastal progradation, aided by large-scale colonization by mangroves, whereas mangrove-colonized areas between banks (inter-bank areas) are exposed to strong wave action and undergo erosion. On large tracts of this coast, urbanization and farming have led to fragmentation and removal of mangroves, resulting in aggravated shoreline retreat. To highlight this situation, we determined, in a setting where mangroves and backshore freshwater marshes have been converted into rice polders in French Guiana, shoreline change over 38 years (1976-2014) from satellite images and aerial orthophotographs. We also conducted four field experiments between October 2013 and October 2014, comprising topographic and hydrodynamic measurements, to determine mechanisms of retreat. The polder showed persistent retreat, at peak rates of up to -200 m/yr, and no recovery over the 38-year period of monitored change. Notwithstanding high erosion rates, mangrove shorelines show strong resilience, with recovery characterized by massive accretion. Retreat of the polder results in a steep wave-reworked shoreface with a lowered capacity for bank welding onshore and mangrove establishment. Persistent polder erosion is accompanied by the formation of a sandy chenier that retreats landwards at rates largely exceeding those in inter-bank situations. These results show that anthropogenic mangrove removal can durably modify the morphodynamics of muddy shorefaces. This limits the capacity for shoreline recovery and mangrove re-establishment even when there is no sustained long-term deficit in mud supply, as in the case of the Amazon-influenced Guianas coast. © 2019 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

2.
Mud bank colonization by mangroves on the Amazon-influenced coast of French Guiana was studied using light detection and ranging (lidar) data which provide unique information on canopy geometry an sub-canopy topography. The role of topography was assessed through analysis of vegetation characteristics derived from these data. Measurements and analyses of mangrove expansion rates over space and time led to the identification of two distinct colonization processes. The first involves regular step-by-step mangrove expansion to the northwest of the experimental site. The second is qualified as ‘opportunistic’ since it involves a clear relationship between specific ecological characteristics of pioneer Avicennia and mud cracks affecting the mud bank surface and for which probabilities of occurrence were computed from terrain elevations. It is argued from an original analysis of the latter relationship that mud cracks cannot be solely viewed as water stress features that reflect desiccation potentially harmful to plant growth. Indeed, our results tend to demonstrate that they significantly enhance the propensity for mangroves to anchor and take root, thus leading to the colonization of tens of hectares in a few days. The limits and potential of lidar data are discussed with reference to the study of muddy coasts. Finally, the findings of the study are reconsidered within the context of a better understanding of both topography and vegetation characteristics on mangrove-fringed muddy coasts.  相似文献   

3.
This paper presents an overview of the significant research on morphodynamics and sediment dynamics on intertidal mudflats in China (1961–1994), particularly in the past 15 years (1980–1994). Development of intertidal mudflats has long been regarded as the response of the intertidal profile to tides, waves and storms. It has been found that there were long-term and short-term cyclic developments of intertidal mudflats in China. Three sedimentological zones have generally been identified from land to sea within the intertidal zone: high mudflat, middle mudflat and low mudflat. In addition, the sediments in the middle mudflat are relatively coarser than those in the high mudflat and low mudflat. Storms have great impacts on the intertidal morphology, sediment textures and sedimentary structures. Based on field investigations of intertidal sedimentary processes, many researchers have found that “settling and scour lags” were only applicable to intertidal cohesive sediment transport during periods of weak waves, but not during storms. In fact, flood fronts, waves, storm surges and longshore drift play important roles in suspended sediment transport on open intertidal mudflats in China. Despite of these extensive studies in the past several decades, there is still a need for an improved understanding of fundamental physical and biological processes governing erosion and deposition of cohesive fine sediment within the intertidal zone in China.  相似文献   

4.
The siltation of reservoir causes many problems of management and environmental disturbances that are important to minimize. Solving these problems requires in particular a good knowledge of mud bank instabilities. In partnership with the Laboratoire National d'Hydraulique (LNH), a subsidiary of Electricite de France (E.D.F.), authors realize a study of soft soils sliding entailed by reservoir emptying. Using a geotechnical flat sliding mechanism, the theoretical formulation of the safety factor can be established when the sediment mass is submerged and emergent. The measurement campaign carried out makes it possible to obtain bathymetric and topographic surveys and a geotechnical characterization of the soil for the whole reservoir of Grangent dam, located on the Loire (France). The proposed model appears to agree satisfactorily with the instability of the zones emerged because of the emptying and with the stability of the profile after emptying. The use of this model within the framework of forecasts  相似文献   

5.
Kilometric-scale shoreline sand waves (KSSW) have been observed in the north-east flank of the Dungeness Cuspate Foreland (southeastern coast of the UK). They consist of two bumps separated by embayments with a 350–450-m spacing. We have analysed 36 shoreline surveys of 2-km length using the Discrete Fourier Transformation (DFT), from 2005 to 2016, and seven topographic surveys encompassing the intertidal zone, from 2010 to 2016. The data set shows two clear formation events. In order to test the role of high-angle waves on the KSSW formation, the 10-year wave series is propagated from the wave buoy located at 43 m depth up to a location in front of the undulations at 4 m depth using the SWAN wave model. The dominating SW waves arrive with a very high incidence angle (~ 80°) while the NE waves arrive almost shore normal. The ratio R, which measures the degree of dominance of high-angle waves with respect to low-angle waves, correlates well with the shoreline DFT magnitude values of the observed wavelength undulations. In particular, the highest R values coincide with the formation events. Finally, a linear stability model based on the one-line approximation is applied to the Dungeness profile and the 10-year propagated wave series. It predicts accurately the formation moments, with positive growth rates in the correct order of magnitude for wavelengths similar to the observed ones. All these results confirm that the shoreline undulations in Dungeness are self-organized and that the underlying formation mechanism is the high-angle wave instability. The two detected formation events provide a unique opportunity to validate the existing morphodynamic models that include such instability.  相似文献   

6.
Montjoly is a headland‐bound embayed sandy beach in Cayenne, French Guiana, that shows long‐term plan shape equilibrium in spite of periodic changes in accretion and erosion that alternately affect either end of the beach. These changes are caused by mud banks that move alongshore from the Amazon. The mechanisms involved in changes in the plan shape of the beach in response to the passage of one of these mud banks were monitored between 1997 and 2000 from airborne video imagery and field work. The beach longshore drift to the northwest, driven by the incident easterly to northeasterly swell usually affecting this coast, became temporarily reversed as the mud bank, migrating from east to west, initially sheltered the southeastern end of the beach. The difference in exposure to waves engendered a negative wave height gradient alongshore towards the southeast, resulting in the setting up of a cell circulation and counter‐active longshore drift from the exposed northwestern sector to the southeast. Sand eroded from the exposed sector accumulated first in the southeastern, and then the central sectors of the beach. The effect of increasing beach sheltering by the mudbank moving west is highlighted on the videographs by an ‘arrested’ pattern of beach shoreline development. The videographs show hardly any changes in beach plan shape since January 1999, due to sheltering of the beach from wave attack by the mud bank. It is expected that the eroded sector will recover in the future as the mud bank passes, leading to re‐establishment of the northwesterly sand drift. This temporally phased bi‐directional drift within the confines of the bounding headlands results in a rare example of mud‐bank‐induced beach rotation, and probably explains the long‐term equilibrium plan shape of Montjoly beach. Copyright © 2002 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

7.
新疆独山子震害地质区划   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1       下载免费PDF全文
本文扼要介绍了独山子地区特有的地质背景——最新的造山运动、独特的泥火山喷出物、广阔的戈壁平原和特殊的洼地沉积。与地质背景有关的一系列地质因素地基土、地形、断层、崩塌、滑坡等也具有独特的区域特征。地质因素地震易损性分析结果,取得震害地质A、B、C、D、E五级分区。根据不同分区地震地面效应强弱程度的差异,建议在土地利用上应避南就北,即避开泥火山和山前洼地而就戈壁平原  相似文献   

8.
Abstract

Photographs are presented which show a series of small waves produced in a surf zone behind the front of each breaking swell. They probably represent solutions to the Korteweg deVries (cnoidal-wave) equation, and their generation is favored by bottom topography not typical of most surf zones.  相似文献   

9.
Analyses of shoreline and bathymetry change near Calais, northern coast of France, showed that shoreline evolution during the 20th century was strongly related with shoreface and nearshore bathymetry variations. Coastal erosion generally corresponds to areas of nearshore seabed lowering while shoreline progradation is essentially associated with areas of seafloor aggradation, notably east of Calais where an extensive sand flat experienced seaward shoreline displacement up to more than 300 m between 1949 and 2000. Mapping of bathymetry changes since 1911 revealed that significant variation in nearshore morphology was caused by the onshore and alongshore migration of a prominent tidal sand bank that eventually welded to the shore. Comparison of bathymetry data showed that the volume of the bank increased by about 10×107 m3 during the 20th century, indicating that the bank was acting as a sediment sink for some of the sand transiting alongshore in the coastal zone. Several lines of evidence show that the bank also represented a major sediment source for the prograding tidal flat, supplying significant amounts of sand to the accreting upper beach. Simulation of wave propagation using the SWAN wave model (Booij et al., 1999) suggests that the onshore movement of the sand bank resulted in a decrease of wave energy in the nearshore zone, leading to more dissipative conditions. Such conditions would have increased nearshore sediment supply, favoring aeolian dune development on the upper beach and shoreline progradation. Our results suggest that the onshore migration of nearshore sand banks may represent one of the most important, and possibly the primary mechanism responsible for supplying marine sand to beaches and coastal dunes in this macrotidal coastal environment.  相似文献   

10.
Abstract

A spectral low-order model is proposed in order to investigate some effects of bottom corrugation on the dynamics of forced and free Rossby waves. The analysis of the interaction between the waves and the topographic modes in the linear version of the model shows that the natural frequencies lie between the corresponding Rossby wave frequencies for a flat bottom and those applying in the “topographic limit” when the beta-effect is zero. There is a possibility of standing or eastward-travelling free waves when the integrated topograhic effect exceeds the planetary beta-effect.

The nonlinear interactions between forced waves in the presence of topography and the beta-effect give rise to a steady dynamical mode correlated to the topographic mode. The periodic solution that includes this steady wave is stable when the forcing field moves to the West with relatively large phase speed. The energy of this solution may be transferred to the steady zonal shear flow if the spatial scale of this zonal mode exceeds the scale of the directly forced large-scale dynamical mode.  相似文献   

11.
To investigate the influence of mangrove reforestation on heavy metal accumulation and speciation in intertidal sediments, core sediments from a restored mangrove forest and adjacent mud flat in Yifeng Estuary (southeastern China) were analyzed. The chemical speciation of heavy metals (Pb, Zn, Cu, Cr and Ni) was determined according to a sequential extraction procedure. Special attention was paid to the upper 20 cm of sediment, in which metal accumulation was enhanced and speciation was obviously modified. Mangrove reforestation decreased the concentrations of all metals in the acid-soluble fraction and increased metal concentrations in the oxidizable fraction. Increased Pb, Zn and Cu concentrations and decreased Ni and Cr concentrations were observed in the reducible fraction. These results suggest that mangrove reforestation facilitated the accumulation of heavy metals in the upper sediment layers but decreased their bioavailability and mobility.  相似文献   

12.
The large organic matter flow in tropical coastal areas is recognized as an important process in the global carbon(C)cycle.However,the nature of organic matter flow in semi-enclosed tropical estuaries remains unclear due to the various environmental processes(tidal change,river flow,waves from the sea,and internal circulation)and organic matter sources therein.Thus,sediment organic matter(SOM)sources,and their distribution pattern,are key to understanding ecosystem material flow.Our research in the Batan Bay Estuary,Philippines,a semi-enclosed estuary under large mangrove deforestation,was conducted to determine ecosystem properties through analysis of C and nitrogen stable isotope ratios and environmental factors.First,we determined that mangrove litter,microphytobenthos,and phytoplankton are the main SOM sources in the Batan Bay Estuary.Second,the estuary was classified into three ecological zones(the Bay zone,Back-barrier zone,and River zone).In addition,we estimated SOM source ratios using the Stable Isotope Analysis in R package and determined different organic matter sources in different zone.The high ratios of mangrove litter as SOM indicate that a large amount of terrestrial plant organic matter remains despite the heavy mangrove deforestation that has occurred since the 1980s,and that the Back-barrier zone consists of a different type of ecosystem that promotes accumulation of C from mangrove litter and microphytobenthos.  相似文献   

13.
The Amazon Macrotidal Mangrove Coast (AMMC) is a large (~7500 km2) contiguous mangrove fringe eastwards from the Amazon River mouth. It encompasses dozens of interconnected bays intercalated with mangrove peninsulas. Mud accumulates on the mangrove flats, whereas the bed of the bays and channels is generally sandy. In this study we investigated the circulation, sediment transport and deposition in a central site at one of these mangrove peninsulas. The study was undertaken during the dry period, when there is no influence of the Amazon River plume and minimum local freshwater inflow. Current and suspended-sediment concentration were monitored in a feeder channel on the mangrove flat along a ~1000 m section oriented along the peninsula axis. Sediment deposition was also measured on the flat. Our results show there was a strong exchange between the neighboring bays. Channel currents were flood dominant, reaching up to >1 m s−1, with residual water and sediment transport westwards. Suspended sediment concentration (SSC) in the channel was directly related to velocity magnitude, ranging between 50 and 350 mg L−1. The flat was flooded in a way that indicated the tidal wave evolves westwards, nearly parallel to the AMMC shoreline. Currents on the flats were much slower than those in the channel and showed slight ebb dominance. However, SSC was higher during the flood than ebb, clearly indicating settling during the current deceleration and limited erosion during the following ebb–flow acceleration. The net sediment transport across the section was 60 tons westwards for the period of the experiment (~4 days). The mean deposition rate was 0.006 kg m−2 s−1 (or 1.4 kg m−2 per tide), which was higher than rates from other reported assessments in mangroves. The set of results indicate very large internal sediment reworking in the AMMC. © 2019 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

14.
Mangrove forests dominate many tropical coastlines and are one of the most bio‐diverse and productive environments on Earth. However, little is known of the large‐scale dynamics of mangrove canopies and how they colonize intertidal areas. Here we focus on a fringe mangrove forest located in the Mekong River Delta, Vietnam; a fast prograding shoreline where mangroves are encroaching tidal flats. The spatial and temporal evolution of the mangrove canopy is studied using a time series of Landsat images spanning two decades as well as Shuttle Radar Topography Mission (SRTM) elevation data. Our results show that fast mangrove expansion is followed by an increase in Normalized Difference Vegetation Index (NDVI) in the newly established canopy. We observe three different dynamics of the mangrove fringe: in the southwest part of the fringe, near a deltaic distributary where the fringe boundary is linear, the canopy expands uniformly on the tidal flats with a high colonization rate and high NDVI values. In the northeast part of the fringe, near another distributary, the canopy expands at a much lower rate with low NDVI values. In the fringe center, far from the river mouths, the fringe boundary is highly irregular and mangroves expansion in characterized by sparse vegetated patches displaying low NDVI values. We ascribe these different dynamics to wave action and southwest longshore transport triggered by energetic northeasterly monsoons during winter. We further link the large‐scale dynamics of the fringe to small‐scale physical disturbances (waves, erosion and deposition) that might prevent the establishment of mangrove seedlings. Based on these results, we include mangrove encroachment in an already published conceptual model of progradation of the Mekong River Delta. We conclude that high NDVI values and a constantly linear vegetation–water interface are indicative of stable mangrove canopies undergoing fast expansion, probably triggered by sediment availability at the shore. Our results can be applied more generally to mangrove forests growing in minerogenic and high tidal range environments with high sediment inputs. Copyright © 2016 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

15.
There is a paucity of data and insight in the mechanisms of, and controls on flow separation and recirculation at natural sharply‐curved river bends. Herein we report on successful laboratory experiments that elucidate flow structure in one constant‐width bend and a second bend with an outer‐bank widening. The experiments were performed with both a flat immobile gravel bed and mobile sand bed with dominant bedload sediment transport. In the constant‐width bend with immobile bed, a zone of mainly horizontal flow separation (vertical rotational axis) formed at the inner bank that did not contain detectable flow recirculation, and an outer‐bank cell of secondary flow with streamwise oriented rotational axis. Surprisingly, the bend with widening at the outer bank and immobile bed did not lead to a transverse expansion of the flow. Rather, flow in the outer‐bank widening weakly recirculated around a vertical axis and hardly interacted with the inner part of the bend, which behaved as a constant‐width bend. In the mobile bed experiment, downstream of the bend apex a pronounced depositional bar developed at the inside of the bend and pronounced scour occurred at the outside. Moreover the deformed bed promoted flow separation over the bar, including return currents. In the constant‐width bend, the topographic steering impeded the generation of an outer‐bank cell of secondary flow. In the bend with outer‐bank widening, the topographic steering induced an outward expansion of the flow, whereby the major part of the discharge was conveyed in the central part of the widening section. Flow in the outer‐bank widening was highly three dimensional and included return currents near the bottom. In conclusion, the experiments elucidated three distinct processes of flow separation common in sharp bends: flow separation at the inner bank, an outer‐bank cell of secondary flow, and flow separation and recirculation in an outer‐bank widening. Copyright © 2012 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

16.
Short‐lived collapse features affecting the intertidal sandy profile were observed on mud‐rich beaches in Cayenne. They were formed in packets of beach sand accumulating over thick (several metres) fluid to under‐consolidated foreshore mud, which adjusts to this sand loading by seaward and longshore migration of fluid mud and subsequent in situ mud dewatering, thus generating subsidence and deformation of the overlying sand sheet. These sandy collapse features required active longshore sand transport and were washed out by wave processes at each rising tide. They finally disappeared permanently as adjustment of the underlying mud enabled stabilization of the beach profile. Copyright © 2006 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

17.
This study analyses beach morphological change during six consecutive storms acting on the meso‐tidal Faro Beach (south Portugal) between 15 December 2009 and 7 January 2010. Morphological change of the sub‐aerial beach profile was monitored through frequent topographic surveys across 11 transects. Measurements of the surf/swash zone dimensions, nearshore bar dynamics, and wave run‐up were extracted from time averaged and timestack coastal images, and wave and tidal data were obtained from offshore stations. All the information combined suggests that during consecutive storm events, the antecedent morphological state can initially be the dominant controlling factor of beach response; while the hydrodynamic forcing, and especially the tide and surge levels, become more important during the later stages of a storm period. The dataset also reveals the dynamic nature of steep‐sloping beaches, since sub‐aerial beach volume reductions up to 30 m3/m were followed by intertidal area recovery (–2 < z < 3 m) with rates reaching ~10 m3/m. However, the observed cumulative dune erosion and profile pivoting imply that storms, even of regular intensity, can have a dramatic impact when they occur in groups. Nearshore bars seemed to respond to temporal scales more related to storm sequences than to individual events. The formation of a prominent crescentic offshore bar at ~200 m from the shoreline appeared to reverse the previous offshore migration trend of the inner bar, which was gradually shifted close to the seaward swash zone boundary. The partially understood nearshore bar processes appeared to be critical for storm wave attenuation in the surf zone; and were considered mainly responsible for the poor interpretation of the observed beach behaviour on the grounds of standard, non‐dimensional, morphological parameters. Copyright © 2011 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

18.
Digital elevation models and topographic pro?les of a beach with intertidal bar and trough (ridge‐and‐runnel) morphology in Merlimont, northern France, were analysed in order to assess patterns of cross‐shore and longshore intertidal bar mobility. The beach exhibited a pronounced dual bar–trough system that showed cross‐shore stationarity. The bars and troughs were, however, characterized by signi?cant longshore advection of sand under the in?uence of suspension by waves and transport by strong tide‐ and wind‐driven longshore currents. Pro?le changes were due in part to the longshore migration of medium‐sized bedforms. The potential for cross‐shore bar migration appears to be mitigated by the large size of the two bars relative to incident wave energy, which is modulated by high vertical tidal excursion rates on this beach due to the large tidal range (mean spring tidal range = 8·3 m). Cross‐shore bar migration is also probably hindered by the well‐entrenched troughs which are maintained by channelled high‐energy intertidal ?ows generated by swash bores and by tidal discharge and drainage. The longshore migration of intertidal bars affecting Merlimont beach is embedded in a regional coastal sand transport pathway involving tidal and wind‐forced northward residual ?ows affecting the rectilinear northern French coast in the eastern English Channel. Copyright © 2004 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

19.
The objective of the research is to analyze in detail the causes and consequences of the unusual event at the coast of Guyana (South America) during October 16–19, 2005. Several sea defense structures were damaged and flooding of low-lying areas occurred. A data analysis of offshore wave and water level characteristics shows an abrupt change in wave direction from east to almost north on October 16, 2005 and a sudden increase in the offshore peak period up to extreme values. The offshore significant wave height was also relatively high, and these wave characteristics coincided with springtide conditions. The long-wave periods and the sharp transition in wave direction indicate that this event is associated with swell waves generated by a depression far away. An analysis of hurricanes and depressions reveals that a severe depression in the Northern Atlantic Ocean during October 11–15 was the origin of this swell event. Numerical computations with SWAN have been carried out to investigate the propagation of the offshore wave characteristics towards the shoreline. The SWAN model includes wave damping due to the presence of soft mud deposits. A calibration of the parameters has been carried out using joint offshore and onshore wave data from November 2006. The numerical simulations of the event in October 2005 clearly demonstrate that the mud banks damp the wave heights, but have almost no effect on the peak period. The resulting waves at the steep sea walls can be classified as surging waves causing severe runup and overtopping. The obtained insights are translated into practical recommendations for the Guyana Sea and River Defence Division in Guyana to build a sustainable management and maintenance of the sea defenses in the future.  相似文献   

20.
Multiple intertidal bars are common features of wave‐dominated sandy beaches, yet their short‐term (<1 month) and small‐scale (<1 km) morphology and dynamics remain poorly understood. This study describes the morphodynamics of multiple intertidal bars in North Lincolnshire, England, during single and lunar tidal cycles under two contrasting conditions – first when significant wave height was <0·5 m and second when significant wave height frequently exceeded 1 m. The relative importance of swash, surf and shoaling processes in determining morphological change was examined using detailed field observations and a numerical model. The beach featured four intertidal bars and both cross‐shore and longshore bar morphology evolved during the field investigation, particularly under medium to high wave‐energy conditions. Numerical modelling suggests shoaling processes are most common on the seaward two bars under calm wave conditions (Hs < 0·5 m) and that surf zone processes become more common during neap tides and under more energetic (Hs < 0·5 m) conditions. Surf processes dominate the inner two bars, though swash influence increases in a landward direction. The numerical modelling results combined with low tide survey data and high‐resolution morphological measurements strongly suggest changes in the intertidal bar morphology are accomplished by surf zone processes rather than by shoaling wave or swash processes. This is because shoaling waves do not induce significant sediment transport to have any morphological effect, whereas swash action generally does not have enough scope to act as the swash zone is much narrower than the surf zone. It was found, however, that the absolute rate of morphological change under swash action and surfzone processes are of similar magnitudes and that swash action may induce a significant amount of local morphological change when the high tide mark is located on the upper bar, making this process important for bar morphodynamics. Copyright © 2007 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

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