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1.
黄河三角洲是陆海交界地带,陆地海洋相互作用显著,泥沙所引起的岸滩演变、港口航道的淤积、水动力环境的改变等问题比较复杂。该文采用三维HEM-3D数值模型对黄河三角洲海域流场变化、盐度、悬浮泥沙浓度及海岸冲淤分布进行了潮流周期内的数值模拟分析。结果表明,黄河三角洲海域的悬浮泥沙浓度分布与潮流场变化和河口泥沙输入有密切的关系,在三角洲北部受五号桩外强潮流区的影响,近岸海底的泥沙发生明显的再悬浮,并在涨潮流向南输送,含沙量达1.5 g/L左右。在三角洲南部(现行河口区域和莱州湾区域),受现行河口入海泥沙扩散的影响显著。海域年冲淤分布,在北部废弃三角洲区域,由于海洋动力作用强烈,浅水冲刷,海底侵蚀显著,形成了明显呈沿岸展布的侵蚀中心,在侵蚀中心以外,侵蚀快速减弱。在现行河口区域,以淤积为主,在羽状流扩散的控制下,泥沙入海后向南输运,至莱州湾区域逐渐减弱。数值模拟的结果与卫星遥感解译的岸线变化基本一致,效果良好。  相似文献   

2.
A three-dimensional transportation model for suspended solids （SS） in Zhujiang （Pearl） River estuary, South China, was developed by coupling with a three-dimensional hydrodynamic model. The model was validated using hourly measured data of sediment contents during 25-26, July 1999. The results showed that modeled contents matched well with measured ones and that the modeled top layer distribution agreed with the remotely sensed image of suspended solids in summer. The modeled results showed clearly the layers of suspended solids in depth, with larger sediment contents in lower layers though in the interface between salt water and freshwater the lowest contents appeared in middle layer. In overall, the suspended solids inflow from 8 rivers,transport southwestward, and carried by strong coastal flow in Zhujiang River estuary. Contours of sediment contents in the estuary spread further to the open sea during ebb tide rather than flood tide which reflects that the suspended solids in the estuary are land sourced.  相似文献   

3.
Based on the measured data, suspended sediment concentration, surface sediment grain size, current and waves, the sediment transport mechanisms and pathways in the Phoenix Island area were analyzed using methods of flux decomposition and Grain Size Trend Analysis (GSTA). The results show that net suspended sediment is mainly transported by average current, Stokes drift, and gravitational circulation. The transport direction of suspended sediment is varying and basically following the direction of residual tidal currents. Surface sediment transport pathways are primarily parallel to the coastline along with two convergent centers. Waves and longshore currents have a significant influence on sediment transport, but the influence is limited due to a steep and deep underwater bank. Tidal current is the main controlling factor for sediment transport, especially in the deep water area. Neither suspended nor surface sediment is transported towards the southwest. The South Shandong Coastal Current (SSCC) has little effect on sediment transport processes in the nearshore area of Phoenix Island.  相似文献   

4.
The beach studied in this paper spans a length of 51 km and is one of several long sandy beaches in the southern Bohai Strait. Due to the obstruction of islands in the northeast and the influence of the underwater topography, the wave environment in the offshore area is complex; beach types and sediment transport characteristics vary along different coasts. The coastlines extracted from six aerial photographs in different years were compared to demonstrate the evolving features. Seven typical beach profiles were selected to study the lateral beach variation characteristics. Continuous wind and wave observation data from Beihuangcheng ocean station during 2009 were employed for the hindcast of the local wave environment using a regional spectral wave model. Then the results of the wave hindcast were incorporated into the LITDRIFT model to compute the sediment transport rates and directions along the coasts and analyze the longshore sand movement. The results show that the coastline evolution of sand beaches in the southern Bohai Strait has spatial and temporal variations and the coast can be divided into four typical regions. Region(I), the north coast of Qimudao, is a slightly eroded and dissipative beach with a large sediment transport rate; Region(II), the southwest coast of Gangluan Port, is a slightly deposited and dissipative beach with moderate sediment transport rate; Region(III), in the central area, is a beach that is gradually transformed from a slightly eroded dissipative beach to a moderately or slightly strong eroded bar-trough beach from west to east with a relatively moderate sediment transport rate. Region(IV), on the east coast, is a strongly eroded and reflective beach with a weak sediment transport rate. The wave conditions exhibit an increasing trend from west to east in the offshore area. The distribution of the wave-induced current inside the wave breaking region and the littoral sediment transport in the nearshore region exhibit a gradual weakening tendency from west to east, which is opposite to the trend of the wave conditions outside the breaking region. The presence of submerged shoal(Dengzhou Shoal), deep trough(Dengzhou Channel), islands and irregular topography influnces the wave climate, beach types, wave-induced current features, littoral sediment transport trends and coastline evolution patterns in the southern Bohai Strait. Human activities, such as the sand exploitation of Dengzhou Shoal and other coastal engineering projects, also influence the beach morphology and coastline evolution.  相似文献   

5.
Based on the Navier-Stokes Equations (NSE), numerical simulation with fine grids is conducted to simulate the coastal surface wave changes, including wave generation, propagation, transformation and interactions between waves and structures. This numerical model has been tested for the generation of the desired incident waves, including both regular and random waves. Some numerical results of this model are compared with available experimental data. In order to apply this model to actual cases, boundary conditions are considered in detail for different shoreline types (beach or breakwater, slope or vertical wall, etc. ). Finally, the utility of the model to a real coastal area is shown by applying it to a fishing port located in Shidao, Rongcheng, Shandong Province, P.R. China.  相似文献   

6.
As a very important component of a coastal system,tidal flats come to be a focus of the studies on land-ocean interaction in the coastal zone because those areas are subjected to intense human activities and are highly sensitive to the global change.The Quanzhou Bay,located along the middle part of Fujian coast of China,covers about 136.4km2,and the area of coastal wetland in the entire bay from intertidal to subtidal with 6m of water depth accounts for 96% of the total area.Seven short cores were collected and divided in situ with the interval of 5cm on the coastal wetlands of Quanzhou Bay on April 19,2006.The sediment samples were scattered and the grain sizes were measured by using Mastersizer 2000.Human beings' activities on tidal flat have disturbed the vertical distribution of sediments in stratigraphic sequence and accelerated the sedimentation rates.Grain size analysis results show that the grain size diameters increase and sediment becomes worse sorted towards the sea under the strong human disturbance;Spartina alterniflora can play a role of trapping the fine sediment;but near the bank,the sediment becomes coarse and there are two peak values on frequency curve influenced by the sandpile.The trough formed by human activities along the coastline changes the transport path of water and suspended sediment.The sediments are transported through the trough and deposit in it during the flood;the ebb flow is retarded by the flow output through the adjacent trough,and the deposited sediment can not be re-suspended;then,the sedimentation rate increases.In situ observation show that the sedimentation rate is about 8-10cm/yr.  相似文献   

7.
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8.
In this paper, the improved version of the meshless singular boundary method(ISBM) is developed for analyzing the hydrodynamic performance of bottom-standing submerged breakwaters in regular normally incident waves. Both the single and dual prismatic breakwaters of rectangular and trapezoidal forms are examined. Only the impermeable breakwaters are considered in this study. The physical problem is cast in terms of the Laplace equation governing an irrotational flow and incompressible fluid motion with the appropriate mixed-type boundary conditions, and it is solved numerically using the ISBM. The numerical results are presented in terms of the hydrodynamic quantities of reflection and transmission coefficients. The values are first validated against the data of previous studies, computed, and discussed for a variety of structural conditions, including the height, width, and spacing of breakwater submergence. An excellent agreement is observed between the ISBM results and those of other methods. The breakwater width is found to feature marginal effects compared with the height. The present method is shown to accurately predict the resonant conditions at which the maximum reflection and transmission occur. The trapezoidal breakwaters are found to generally present a wide spectrum of reflections, suggesting that they would function better than the rectangular breakwaters. The dual breakwater systems are confirmed to perform much better than single structures.  相似文献   

9.
This study develops an analytical solution for oblique wave interaction with a comb-type caisson breakwater based on linear potential theory. The fluid domain is divided into inner and outer regions according to the geometrical shape of breakwater. By using periodic boundary condition and separation of variables, series solutions of velocity potentials in inner and outer regions are developed. Unknown expansion coefficients in series solutions are determined by matching velocity and pressure of continuous conditions on the interface between two regions. Then, hydrodynamic quantities involving reflection coefficients and wave forces acting on breakwater are estimated. Analytical solution is validated by a multi-domain boundary element method solution for the present problem. Diffusion reflection due to periodic variations in breakwater shape and corresponding surface elevations around the breakwater are analyzed. Numerical examples are also presented to examine effects of caisson parameters on total wave forces acting on caissons and total wave forces acting on side plates. Compared with a traditional vertical wall breakwater, the wave force acting on a suitably designed comb-type caisson breakwater can be significantly reduced. This study can give a better understanding of the hydrodynamic performance of comb-type caisson breakwaters.  相似文献   

10.
As part of a collaborative study between the 3rd Institute of Oceanography, Xiamen, and the U. K. Universities of East Anglia and St. Andrews, a 4-day experiment was conducted on a ridge- and- runnel beach of north Norfolk on the North Sea coast. Detailed surveys were made of every low water of an area 10m by 30m and electromagnetic current meters were used to measure wave-induced currents over the ridge and in the runnel. The locations of bedform fields were noted, fluorescent sand was used to follow the sand movement and, at the end of the experiment, lacquer peels were taken of the top 0.2m of a vertical section through the ridge- and- runnel. During the 4 days 0.75m3 of sand per metre width of beach accreted in the runnel and a similar volume was eroded from the upper foreshore. The dominant shoreward transport, identified qualitatively by the movement of the fluorescent sand, suggests the ridge- and- runnel system migrated shorewards up the general beach slope of 1o by 2–3m. The wave orbital currents were used to predict the bedforms to be expected over the tidal cycle: an upper phase plane- bed was predicted for most of the period but vortex and rolling- grain ripples were predicted and observed when the water level over the ridge was low. As the tide dropped ripples on the ridge were eliminated by swash action but the ripples in the runnel were protected by the ridge and remained on the beach after the tide dropped. The observed accretion of the beach in the runnel and on the lee slope of the ridge was used to calculate that a net average shoreward transport of 0.11g/cm·s−1 occurred over the ridge crest during the period it was underwater. The current meter measurements of the wave orbital currents and the mean currents over the ridge crest were used with the wave- current interaction model of Grant and Madsen (1982), ripple dimensions defined by Nielsen (1981), and resuspension coefficient of Vincent and Green (1990), to compute bedload sand transport rates from the equations of Madsen and Grant (1976), Sleath (1978), and Vincent et al. (1981), and also the suspended sand transport rates. The results from one of these bedload equations (Madsen and Grant, 1976) compared well with the observed net transport. The calculated suspended load transport rates (due to steady currents alone) were a factor of 5 too great, and were also several orders of magnitude greater than suspended transport rates measured directly under similar or more energetic wave and current conditions.  相似文献   

11.
The culture of suspended kelp, such as Laminaria japonica Aresch, has arisen in nearshore areas for approximately 30 years since the 1980 s. This long-term activity has significant impact on the regional hydrodynamic and sedimentary environments. In this study the impact was investigated, based on synchronized multi-station data from continuous observations made within and around the culture area. In total, three current velocity profiles were identified inside and on the landward side of the culture area. Based on the current velocity profiles we calculated the boundary layer parameters, the fluxes of erosion/deposition, and the rate of sediment transport in different times at each observation site. Comparison between culture and non-culture periods showed that the presence of suspended kelp caused the reduction in the average flow velocity by approximately 49.5%, the bottom friction velocity by 24.8%, the seabed roughness length by 62.7%, and the shear stress and the flux of resuspended sediment by approximately 50%. From analyses in combination with the corresponding vertical variation of the suspended sediment distribution, it is revealed that the lifted sediments by resuspension is mixed with the upper suspended material, which will modify the regional distribution of suspended sediment. These changes in flow structure and sediment movement will accelerate seabed siltation, which corresponds to the changes in seabed erosion/deposition. However, under the influences of the seasonal changes in kelp growth the magnitude of change with the seabed siltation was not obvious inside the culture area, but a fundamental change was apparent around the culture area.  相似文献   

12.
The culture of suspended kelp, such as Laminaria japonica Aresch, has arisen in nearshore areas for approximately 30 years since the 1980 s. This long-term activity has significant impact on the regional hydrodynamic and sedimentary environments. In this study the impact was investigated, based on synchronized multi-station data from continuous observations made within and around the culture area. In total, three current velocity profiles were identified inside and on the landward side of the culture area. Based on the current velocity profiles we calculated the boundary layer parameters, the fluxes of erosion/deposition, and the rate of sediment transport in different times at each observation site. Comparison between culture and non-culture periods showed that the presence of suspended kelp caused the reduction in the average flow velocity by approximately 49.5%, the bottom friction velocity by 24.8%, the seabed roughness length by 62.7%, and the shear stress and the flux of resuspended sediment by approximately 50%. From analyses in combination with the corresponding vertical variation of the suspended sediment distribution, it is revealed that the lifted sediments by resuspension is mixed with the upper suspended material, which will modify the regional distribution of suspended sediment. These changes in flow structure and sediment movement will accelerate seabed siltation, which corresponds to the changes in seabed erosion/deposition. However, under the influences of the seasonal changes in kelp growth the magnitude of change with the seabed siltation was not obvious inside the culture area, but a fundamental change was apparent around the culture area.  相似文献   

13.
The distribution of the suspended sediment concentration (SSC) in the Bohai Sea, Yellow Sea and East China Sea (BYECS) is studied based on the observed turbidity data and model simulation results. The observed turbidity results show that (i) the highest SSC is found in the coastal areas while in the outer shelf sea areas turbid water is much more difficult to observe, (ii) the surface layer SSC is much lower than the bottom layer SSC and (iii) the winter SSC is higher than the summer SSC. The Regional Ocean Modeling System (ROMS) is used to simulate the SSC distribution in the BYECS. A comparison between the modeled SSC and the observed SSC in the BYECS shows that the modeled SSC can reproduce the principal features of the SSC distribution in the BYECS. The dynamic mechanisms of the sediment erosion and transport processes are studied based on the modeled results. The horizontal distribution of the SSC in the BYECS is mainly determined by the current-wave induced bottom stress and the fine-grain sediment distribution. The current-induced bottom stress is much higher than the wave-induced bottom stress, which means the tidal currents play a more significant role in the sediment resuspension than the wind waves. The vertical mixing strength is studied based on the mixed layer depth and the turbulent kinetic energy distribution in the BYECS. The strong winter time vertical mixing, which is mainly caused by the strong wind stress and surface cooling, leads to high surface layer SSC in winter. High surface layer SSC in summer is restricted in the coastal areas.  相似文献   

14.
To study the relationship between sediment transportation and saltwater intrusion in the Changjiang (Yangtze) estuary, a three-dimensional numerical model for temperature, salinity, velocity field, and suspended sediment concentration was established based on the ECOMSED model. Using this model, sediment transportation in the flood season of 2005 was simulated for the Changjiang estuary. A comparison between simulated results and observation data for the tidal level, flow velocity and direction, salinity and suspended sediment concentration indicated that they were consistent in overall. Based on model verification, the simulation of saltwater intrusion and its effect on sediment in the Changjiang estuary was analyzed in detail. The saltwater intrusion in the estuary including the formation, evolution, and disappearance of saltwater wedge and the induced vertical circulation were reproduced, and the crucial impact of the wedge on cohesive and non-cohesive suspended sediment distribution and transportation were successfully simulated. The result shows that near the salinity front, the simulated concentrations of both cohesive and non-cohesive suspended sediment at the surface layer had a strong relationship with the simulated velocity, especially when considering a 1-hour lag. However, in the bottom layer, there was no obvious correlation between them, because the saltwater wedge and its inducing vertical circulation may have resuspended loose sediment on the bed, thus forming a high-concentration area near the bottom even if the velocity near the bottom was very low during the transition phase from flood to ebb.  相似文献   

15.
1　Introduction　Oceanicislandsfallintoseveraldifferenttypes .Thecommontypesarevolcanicislands ,atollsandemer gentlimestoneislands (ScottandRotondo ,1 983;Woodroffe ,1 992 ) .Avolcanicislandinthetropicshasfringingor andbarrierreefs .Anatollhasaring shaped…  相似文献   

16.
Detrital minerals of 137 offshore and 22 river sediment samples collected from Qingdao coastal areas have been analyzed. Four mineral assemblage provinces can be classified by Q-mode cluster analysis. Factor analysis identifies two major factors that account for the total variability in most common minerals: 1) based on the relationship of quartz, hornblende, actinolite, micas, and authigenic pyrite, 41.55% of the variability is related to sediment sources; 2) based on the relationship of epidote, garnet, sphere, and ilmenite, 23.21% can be related to strong hydrodynamic conditions that control transport and sedimentation. By comparing mineral compositions of river waters in the study area, the following four mineral provenances can be identified. The Qingdao-Laoshan nearshore area has a quartz-feldspar-epidote-hornblende-limenite-limonite-sphene assemblage, which is largely attributed to relict sediment and coastal erosion. The Jimo-Haiyang nearshore area has a quartz-feldspar-hornblende-epidote-limonite-mica-actinolite assemblage, derived largely from the Wulong River and Rushan River, and is also affected by the Huanghe River, while the Qianliyan Island area in the deeper offshore area separated by a mud belt has a similar assemblage. The Haiyang-Rushan nearshore area has a quartz-feldspar-hornblende-epidote-micas-limonite assemblage, indicating multiple sources from the Rushan River, the Wulong River, the Huanghe River, and coastal erosion. The central area, located in an eddy center, has a mica-authigenic pyrite-hornblende-quartzfeldspar assemblage, indicating multiple sources dominated by Huanghe River distal sediments.  相似文献   

17.
The propagation and fission process of internal solitary waves (ISWs) with amplitudes of about 170 m are simulated in the northeast of the South China Sea (NSCS) by using the generalized Korteweg-de Vries (KdV) equation under continuous stratification. More attention is paid to the effects of the ebb and flood background currents on the fission process of ISWs. This kind of background current is provided by the composed results simulated in terms of monthly mean baroclinic circulation and barotropic tidal current. It is found that the obtained relation of the number of fission solitons to the water depth and stratification is roughly in accordance with the fission law derived by Djordjevic and Redekopp in 1978; however, there exists obvious difference between the effects of the ebb and flood background currents on the wave-lengths of fission solitons (defined as the distance between two neighboring peaks of ISWs). The difference in nonlinearity coefficient α between the ebb and flood background currents is a main cause for the different wave-lengths of fission solitons.  相似文献   

18.
Studies on land loss in Tuvalu reveal the following findings. Although both sea level rise and coastal erosion can cause land loss in the tropic Pacific oceanic islands, their mechanisms are different. When sea level rises, the low elevation coastal zone submerges and the erosion datum plane rises, the beach process progresses normally as always, resulting in no beach sediment coarsening. When the sea level is stable, coastal erosion removes finer sediment from reef flat, beach and land, resulting in beach sediment coarsening. The human-induced coastal erosion in the tropic Pacific oceanic islands has the following features. 1) Erosion occurs or intensifies immediately after inappropriate human activities. 2) It occurs near the places having human activities and places related to the above places in sediment supply. 3) It often occurs on original prograding or stable coasts (on lagoon coasts for atolls) because there are more coastal engineering projects and other human activities on such coasts. 4) It is chronic, covering a long period of time. The coastal geological events in Tuvalu islands do not accord with the features resulted from sea level rise but do accord with the features resulted from coastal erosion, particularly from human-induced erosion. The land loss in Tuvalu is mainly caused by inappropriate human activities including coastal engineering and aggregate mining, and partly caused by cyclones. Moreover, all recent measurements (satellite altimetry,thermosteric sea level data and tide observations) so far have not been able to verify any sea level rise around Tuvalu islands.  相似文献   

19.
Many observations show that in the Yellow Sea internal tidal waves (ITWs) possess the remarkable characteristics of internal Kelvin wave, and in the South Yellow Sea (SYS) the nonlinear evolution of internal tidal waves is one of the mechanisms producing internal solitary waves (ISWs), which is different from the generation mechanism in the case where the semidiurnal tidal current flows over topographic drops. In this paper, the model of internal Kelvin wave with continuous stratification is given, and an elementary numerical study of nonlinear evolution of ITWs is made for the SYS, using the generalized KdV model (GKdV model for short) for a continuous stratified ocean, in which the different effects of background barotropic ebb and flood currents are considered. Moreover, the parameterization of vertical turbulent mixing caused by ITWs and ISWs in the SYS is studied, using a parameterization scheme which was applied to numerical experiments on the breaking of ISWs by Vlasenko and Hutter in 2002. It is found that the vertical turbulent mixing caused by internal waves is very strong within the upper layer with depth less than about 30m, and the vertical turbulent mixing caused by ISWs is stronger than that by ITWs.  相似文献   

20.
EQUILIBRIUM COASTAL PROFILES:Ⅰ. REVIEW AND SYNTHESIS   总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3  
naomONProfilesonsandycoastSaresiInilarintheirmorphologyundersjmilarndbotandhydrodynandc(tidaluntandwave)conditions.SuchanobservationhastaltotheconceptofcoastalequilibriunLAssodatalwiththeconceptareanUInbeofcrudelissues,indudingt(i)theevidencetodemonstratetheexisteneeofequilibriny(ii)calculationsoftheshapeofanequilibriumcoastalprofile,and(iii)theperiodoftimerequbotoaschtheequilibriumstate(knownastheresponsetiIne).TherehaveformanyeffortSlookingforsolutionstotheseprobbo,sincethestudAsundCftak…  相似文献   

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