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1.
Many drowning and near drownings at Pensacola Beach, Florida are attributed to rip currents, the strong seaward-flowing currents that extend from the shoreline to the line of breakers and sometimes beyond. While surf forecasts assume that the rip hazard is uniform alongshore and that the (erosion) rips are ephemeral features, evidence is presented to suggest that the rip hazard at Pensacola Beach is not uniform alongshore. Rather the rip current “hotspots” develop as a consequence of an alongshore variation in the surf similarity parameter and nearshore state on the order of ~1,450 m. The variation is forced by transverse ridges on the inner shelf that force wave refraction and focusing at the ridge crests. This creates a more dissipative, rhythmic bar and beach morphology at the ridges and rougher surf. Between ridges, where wave heights and periods are smaller and the outermost bar is forced closer to the shoreline, the nearshore is in a (more reflective) bar and rip state during red flag conditions. Drownings between 2000 and 2009 are shown to be clustered between transverse ridges and in the years following a hurricane or tropical storm (2000–2003 and 2005–2008) when the bar and rip morphology first develops as the shore face recovers. This continues until the innermost bar attaches to the beach face unless the bar system is reset by another tropical storm or hurricane. It is argued that the rip hazard is dependent on the alongshore covariation of the environmental forcing with the individual and group behavior in both time and space, even on what appears to be a relatively uniform beach environment. 相似文献
2.
破碎区至冲泻区水动力特性分析是研究近岸地区泥沙输运机理和岸滩演变的关键。考虑潜堤修建的影响,对破碎区至冲泻区水动力特性开展研究。运用基于RANS方程的波浪数学模型,选取非线性涡粘性κ-ε紊动传输模型,采用高精度PLIC-VOF方法追踪自由面,并用实验数据验证模型精度。计算分析结果表明,潜堤的修建改变了破波点的位置,破碎区至冲泻区内水动力特性随之变化,入射波波高H、波长L、堤顶水深R和堤顶宽度B是主要影响因素。在相同的入射波条件下,B/R增大,破碎区至冲泻区内出现的最大紊动动能值和最大紊动耗散值减小。用量纲一参数Re,Fr和St来描述破碎区至冲泻区水动力特性,随着RL/BH增大,波浪将在离岸较近处发生破碎,Re和Fr增大,St减小。 相似文献
3.
Morphological characteristics and medium-term evolution of the beaches between Ceuta and Cabo Negro (Morocco) 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
G. Anfuso J. A. Martínez del Pozo D. Nachite J. Benavente A. Macias 《Environmental Geology》2007,52(5):933-946
This work presents the results of a combined study on the beach morphology and the evolution at short- and medium-term of
the littoral between Ceuta and Cabo Negro (Morocco). It is an interesting sector showing a great increase of human occupation
and coastal structures. The monitoring program allowed for the reconstruction of the beach morphological behavior and the
seasonal changes. The studied beaches presented reflective profiles recording little seasonality, with the most notable morphological
changes being strictly related to storms. Surf Similarity and Surf Scaling parameters highlighted the existence of intermediate
and reflective beach states, characterized by plunging breakers. Aerial photographs and a satellite image have been geo-referenced
and elaborated with GIS tools to reconstruct the short- and medium-term evolution of the littoral and the sediment transport
pathways. The littoral showed important erosion at short- and medium-term related to a negative sedimentary budget because
of offshore transport. Sand accumulation was recorded close to the main ports, i.e., Marina Smir and Marina Kabila. These
port structures constituted impermeable, fixed limits, which divided the studied area into littoral cells. Other free, transit
limits were also observed. 相似文献
4.
波流共同作用下潮滩剖面沉积物和地貌分异规律——以长江口崇明东滩为例 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
通过对崇明东滩两个海滩剖面、表层沉积物和悬沙粒度以及同步水沙资料的分析,探讨波流共同作用下表层沉积物和地貌的分异规律。受波流共同作用的影响,表层沉积物中值粒径由破波带向两侧逐渐变细,分选由破波带向两侧逐渐变差,偏度由极正偏变为正偏,峭度由很窄尖变为宽平和中等峭度。由破波带向岸方向,流速逐渐减小,含沙量逐渐增加。悬沙和表层沉积物粒度特征的对比分析表明,潮间带上部的悬沙主要来源于破波带泥沙的再悬浮。破波带内泥沙以“波浪掀沙”引起的分选运移为主,而破波带两侧的泥沙以潮流对破波带水体的“平流输移”为主。以潮汐水位和高精度海滩剖面数据对崇明东滩微地貌类型按高程进行了新的划分。 相似文献
5.
Sandy beach surf zones serve as alternative nursery habitats for juvenile Chinook salmon (0 age) during their early marine residency, a period considered critical due to high and variable mortality rates. Despite the importance of early marine residence, the extent of juvenile salmon surf zone use and movement along sandy beaches is not well understood. Juvenile Chinook salmon distribution and movement were studied in shallow surf zone habitats by sampling from 2006 to 2010 with a beach seine 11 beaches adjacent and distant to four estuary mouths in Oregon and Washington, USA. The estuary of origin of each juvenile was determined using genetic stock identification methods and coded wire tags. Surf zones sampled were within littoral cells, which are stretches of the coastline bordered by rocky headlands, and included estuaries with and without Chinook salmon populations. Juvenile salmonids were only collected at littoral cells with Chinook-inhabited watersheds. Most juveniles (95 %) were present at sandy beaches adjacent (<500 m from estuary mouth) to their estuary of origin. Few Chinook salmon (5 %) were collected at littoral cells that contained non-natal estuaries. These results indicate that juvenile Chinook salmon inhabiting surf zones mostly use beaches adjacent to their estuaries of origin, but some juveniles may reside in beaches distant from their point of ocean entry. 相似文献
6.
Karen L. Knee Elizabeth D. Crook James L. Hench James J. Leichter Adina Paytan 《Estuaries and Coasts》2016,39(6):1651-1668
Previous work has documented large fluxes of freshwater and nutrients from submarine groundwater discharge (SGD) into the coastal waters of a few volcanic oceanic islands. However, on the majority of such islands, including Moorea (French Polynesia), SGD has not been studied. In this study, we used radium (Ra) isotopes and salinity to investigate SGD and associated nutrient inputs at five coastal sites and Paopao Bay on the north shore of Moorea. Ra activities were highest in coastal groundwater, intermediate in coastal ocean surface water, and lowest in offshore surface water, indicating that high-Ra groundwater was discharging into the coastal ocean. On average, groundwater nitrate and nitrite (N + N), phosphate, ammonium, and silica concentrations were 12, 21, 29, and 33 times greater, respectively, than those in coastal ocean surface water, suggesting that groundwater discharge could be an important source of nutrients to the coastal ocean. Ra and salinity mass balances indicated that most or all SGD at these sites was saline and likely originated from a deeper, unsampled layer of Ra-enriched recirculated seawater. This high-salinity SGD may be less affected by terrestrial nutrient sources, such as fertilizer, sewage, and animal waste, compared to meteoric groundwater; however, nutrient-salinity trends indicate it may still have much higher concentrations of nitrate and phosphate than coastal receiving waters. Coastal ocean nutrient concentrations were virtually identical to those measured offshore, suggesting that nutrient subsidies from SGD are efficiently utilized. 相似文献
7.
L. C. Radke P. W. Ford I. T. Webster I. Atkinson G. Douglas K. Oubelkheir J. Li B. Robson B. Brooke 《Aquatic Geochemistry》2010,16(1):1-29
The Fitzroy River delivers large amounts of nutrients and fine sediments to Keppel Bay (contiguous with the Great Barrier
Reef Lagoon) during intermittent flow events. This study explores sources, forms and transformations of nutrients in Keppel
Bay, and develops a functional process zonation that integrates seabed geochemistry and water column nutrient characteristics
which are controlled by suspended sediment. The water column and seabed properties were investigated over two dry seasons,
with supplementary core incubations taken to measure carbon decomposition rates and nutrient fluxes. Keppel Bay can be divided
into three zones, the: zone of maximum resuspension (ZMR); coastal transitional zone (CTZ); and blue water zone (BWZ). Mineralisation
of predominantly terrestrial organic matter occurs in the ZMR where nutrient uptake by phytoplankton is light limited. The
CTZ and BWZ had higher light penetration and phytoplankton growth was likely limited by N and P, respectively. The identified
zones conform to the bathymetry and hydrodynamic characteristics of the bay, allowing for the development of an integrated
conceptual model accounting for the benthic and pelagic biogeochemical processes. Recognition of these different zones shows
that considerable variation in benthic and water column properties is possible within a small system with the bathymetric
and hydrodynamic characteristics of the fluidized bed reactor. 相似文献
8.
Perception of the rip current hazard on Galveston Island and North Padre Island,Texas, USA 总被引：1，自引：1，他引：0
Christian Brannstrom Sarah Trimble Anna Santos Heather Lee Brown Chris Houser 《Natural Hazards》2014,72(2):1123-1138
The hazard posed by a rip current depends in part on the ability of beach users to identify a rip current and to associate surf conditions with the potential for rip currents. Understanding which visual features beach users associated with rip currents is an important step in the development of appropriate programs and educational materials aimed at improving the ability of beach users to identify a rip current. A face-to-face survey (n = 392) was conducted to assess the ability of beach users to identify a rip current using five near eye-level photographs that simulate the view of the beach and surf zone as the respondent approached the beach. The survey was conducted on three heavily used public beaches in Texas (Galveston, Port Aransas, and Corpus Christi) at the height of the summer beach season in 2012. Only 13 % of respondents correctly selected the photograph showing the most hazardous conditions and correctly identified the precise location of the rip current on the photograph. The majority of beach users (87 %) incorrectly indicated that the photograph with the heaviest surf represented the most hazardous surf conditions and greatest potential for the development of rip currents, or failed to identify rip currents in photographs. Respondents who were able to correctly identify the rip current tended to recognize the breaking wave pattern, areas of darker water, or the proximity to structures as key visual characteristics of rip currents and also had higher self-reported abilities to swim in rough water and escape a rip current. 相似文献
9.
10.
Lagrangian flow of two rip currents was measured using human drifters to understand how variations in surf zone circulation
affect exit positions of floating swimmers. Based on these results, two escape strategies were assessed, ‘do nothing’ and
‘swim parallel to the beach’. The drifter paths and exit positions were analysed to determine the best escape strategy for
passive swimmers in each scenario. Of the two methods, doing nothing to allow the rip current to take a swimmer is the most
effective strategy. More than 75% of rip current flow scenarios could hinder chances of escape of swimmers if the wrong direction
was chosen to swim parallel to the beach to safety. This is because in many situations a swimmer encounters not only a rip
current flowing offshore but also a longshore current flowing parallel to the beach. The best education campaign for the public,
in addition to only swimming on a patrolled beach, would be to promote the ‘do nothing’ rip current escape strategy, as it
covers all flow scenarios without reducing a swimmer’s chance of survival. 相似文献
11.
We focus on the question of whether high phytoplankton production events observed in a United States Pacific Northwest estuary consist of estuarine species blooms fueled by oceanic nutrient input or reflect offshore oceanic blooms that have advected into the estuary. Our approach is to use certain phytoplankton species as indicators associated with water mass origin, either estuarine or oceanic, to help resolve this question in Willapa Bay, Washington. We used species analysis and primary production data from 10 selected dates in May–September of 1998 and 1999, representing periods of high through low productivity. Out of 108 phytoplankton species identified from Willapa Bay, nine were selected and tested as indicators of oceanic species, six as estuarine, and two as surf zone. Our test results demonstrated the oceanic and estuarine species to be satifactory indicators of source waters. The prevalence of these species indicators in our samples revealed that the highest primary production and the appearance ofPseudo-nitzschia spp. were associated with oceanic intrusions of phytoplankton biomass into Willapa Bay. While the largest blooms were oceanic in origin, numerous medium-sized production events were from either oceanic, surf zone, or estuarine sources, indicating a complex situation. 相似文献
12.
香港西博寮海峡WB7孔的第四纪沉积及硅藻研究 总被引：1，自引：1，他引：1
香港西搏寮海峡ＷＢ７孔第四纪沉积物中共有硅藻５４属，１８６个分类单位，该硅藻生物群以沿岸潮间带和近岸浅海种为主，伴有热性，暖热性浮游硅藻。依据硅藻在剖面中的分布特征，丰度及百分比含量变化，自下而上可划分出６个硅藻组合带。并明显反映该沉积时期的古气候与古环境特征，其中第５，６，带相当于全新世，其余４个带均属更新世。 相似文献
13.
Measurements of primary production in surf-zone habitats are relatively rare and often utilize simulation approaches, owing to the physical challenges of working in surf. The study reported here examined primary production in situ at two open ocean sandy beaches in southeastern North Carolina during relatively calm summer conditions. In situ bottle incubations using 14C uptake methods were complemented by simultaneous measures of phytoplankton photo-physiology assessed by Fast Repetition Rate Fluorometry (FRRF) in flow-through mode at the two sites across a spring-neap tidal cycle in July, 2010. The surf-zone phytoplankton was dominated by small centric and pennate diatoms as well as cyanobacteria and chlorophytes with biomass concentrations of 3.63?C9.23?mg chl a m?3. Primary productivity was relatively high, ranging from 31.5?C88.0?mg?C?m?3?h?1 by 14C. Biomass-specific productivity averaged ??9.4?mg C (mg chl a)?1?h?1 by 14C, indicating healthy phytoplankton populations. Measurements of the functional absorption cross section of photosystem II, ??PSII, via FRRF were 327?C380, comparable to values reported by other investigators of open ocean phytoplankton. Averaged values of the maximum effective quantum yield, F v/F m, corresponded to proportions of photochemically competent PSII reaction centers of 62.6?% to 72?%, indicating that the phytoplankton were nutrient-replete. These data suggest that the surf zone, although a spatially confined habitat, is a productive one that plays a significant role in coastal ocean ecology. Further investigation is needed to better understand primary productivity of phytoplankton in the surf zone and the effect of the dynamic environment on their physiological responses. 相似文献
14.
Evaluation of swimmer-based rip current escape strategies 总被引：2，自引：1，他引：1
R. Jak McCarroll Robert W. Brander Jamie H. MacMahan Ian L. Turner Ad J. H. M. Reniers Jenna A. Brown Anthony Bradstreet Shauna Sherker 《Natural Hazards》2014,71(3):1821-1846
Rip currents are the primary hazard on surf beaches, and early studies described them as fast, shore-normal flows that extended seaward of the surf zone. Based on this traditional view, commonly promoted safety advice was to escape a rip current by swimming parallel to the beach. However, recent studies have shown dominant rip current re-circulation within the surf zone and have endorsed floating as an appropriate escape strategy. Here, a first quantitative assessment of the efficacy of various rip current escape strategies, with a focus on the underlying physical processes, is presented. A field study was conducted at Shelly Beach, NSW, Australia, measuring three rip currents (two open beaches, one topographic) over 3 days in varying wave conditions. Floating was found to be a longer duration, more variable escape strategy ( $ \overline{t} $ = 3.8 min, σ = 2.4 min), than swimming parallel ( $ \overline{t} $ = 2.2 min, σ = 1.0 min). Neither of the scenarios is 100 % foolproof, and both fail in some scenarios, making simplified safety recommendations difficult. Swim parallel failures are related to swimming against the alongshore current of the rip circulation. Float failures related to surf zone exits, with the highest exit rate occurring in the topographic rip. Float failures also occurred due to multiple re-circulations without the person attaining safe footing on the bar. The variable spatial and temporal behaviour of rip currents suggests that a single escape strategy safety message is inappropriate. Instead, a combined approach and scenario-specific safety advice should be considered by beach safety practitioners to promote to the public. 相似文献
15.
Isotopes have often been used to discern riverine subsidies to coastal food chains, but there are few direct measurements of nutritional quality of riverine particulates. We tested for nutritionally enriched organic matter in the Mississippi River suspended sediment and evidence for its delivery to Louisiana coastal sediments by measuring enzymatically hydrolysable amino acids (EHAA). Riverine suspended sediments contained EHAA concentrations of up to 5 mg g?1, higher than reported in any coastal sediment. Pigment concentrations indicated that EHAA in some river samples were dominated by phytoplankton, but many samples contained significant non-algal EHAA. Coastal sediments showed EHAA concentrations lower than riverine sediments but still higher than most reported shelf values. Incubation of riverine sediment showed losses of 28–34% of their EHAA over 6 days, similar to differences found between riverine and coastal sediments. EHAA concentrations decreased more rapidly than total nitrogen, indicating the relative lability of this pool of material in the studied region. These EHAA-enriched materials provide fuel for various coastal biota whose composition likely depends on factors such as disturbance regimes. 相似文献
16.
Kananathan Amalan Amila Sandaruwan Ratnayake Nalin Prasanna Ratnayake Shanaka Maduranga Weththasinghe Nimila Dushyantha Nalika Lakmali Ranjith Premasiri 《Environmental Earth Sciences》2018,77(21):737
Beach sediments in Sri Lanka contain industrial-grade heavy mineral occurrences. Samples of both offshore and onshore sediments were collected to examine the provenance, mineralogy and geochemical compositions of the heavy mineral occurrences. Coastal morphodynamic changes along the coastline of Sri Lanka were analyzed using the time-series satellite images. These coastal morphodynamic changes were used to identify the prominent directions of monsoon-influenced longshore currents, coastal sediment accretion and depositional trends and their relationships to the provenance of the heavy minerals. Results show the concentrations of detrital ilmenite, zircon, garnet, monazite, and rutile vary in the onshore and offshore sediments. The heavy mineral potential of the northeastern coast is high (average contents of about 45–50% in the Verugal deposit, 70–85% in the Pulmoddai deposit, and 3.5–5.0% in offshore samples stretching from Nilaveli to Kokkilai), compared to sediments in southwest (average content about 10% in onshore sediments and 2% in offshore sediments from the mouth of the Gin River). Therefore, no economic-grade heavy mineral placers were identified in the offshore environments. The high concentrations of heavy minerals in beach sediments and low concentrations in offshore sediments suggest operation of a panning system in the surf zone to form enriched placer deposits. Major and trace element compositions of beach sediments show marked enrichments of TiO2, Fe2O3, La, Ce, Zr, Cr, Nb, Th and V compared to average Upper Continental Crust (UCC) values. Analysis of prominent coastal longshore transport patterns identifies bidirectional sediment transport in the northeast coast of Sri Lanka. In the southwestern coast, two transport directions occur with anti-clockwise transport from Galle to Hambantota, and clockwise transport from Hikkaduwa to Wadduwa. The heavy minerals in the placers were mainly derived from Precambrian metamorphic rocks, and transported to the coast through the river systems of Sri Lanka. 相似文献
17.
Sarah M. Heerhartz Megan N. Dethier Jason D. Toft Jeffery R. Cordell Andrea S. Ogston 《Estuaries and Coasts》2014,37(5):1256-1268
The ecological significance of algal and seagrass wrack subsidies has been well-documented for exposed-coast sandy beaches but is relatively unstudied in lower-energy and mixed-sediment beaches. In marine nearshore environments where beaches are fringed with riparian vegetation, the potential for reciprocal subsidies between marine and terrestrial ecosystems exists. Within the marine-terrestrial ecotone, upper intertidal “wrack zones” accumulate organic debris from algae, seagrass, and terrestrial plant sources and provide food and shelter for many organisms. Human modification also occurs within this ecotone, particularly in the form of armoring structures for bank stabilization that physically disrupt the connectivity between ecosystems. We conducted detailed wrack and log surveys in spring and fall over 3 years at 29 armored–unarmored beach pairs in Puget Sound, WA, USA. Armoring lowered the elevation of the interface between marine and terrestrial ecosystems and narrowed the width of the intertidal transition zone. Armored beaches had substantially less wrack overall and a lower proportion of terrestrial plant material, while marine riparian zones (especially trees overhanging the beach) were an important source of wrack to unarmored beaches. Armored beaches also had far fewer logs in this transition zone. Thus, they lacked biogenic habitat provided by logs and riparian wrack as well as the organic input used by wrack consumers. Results such as these that demonstrate armoring-associated loss of connectivity across the marine-terrestrial ecotone may be useful in informing conservation, restoration, and management actions. 相似文献
18.
19.
Tapas K. Mallik 《Environmental Geology》1987,10(2):95-102
The physiographic setting of Kerala State, India, is unique. A narrow strip of the state contains a chain of lagoons and estuaries
with a very high population density. The strip is subjected to severe coastal erosion during the monsoon season. A number
of other problems are also associated with the coastal zone of Kerala, such as irregular dredging of black sands from the
beaches, coastal flooding, hazards due to developmental activities, etc. A Coastal Zone Management Programme was developed
and administered by the Centre for Earth Science Studies, Trivandrum, to provide efficient coastal management and solve some
of these problems. Various programmes included under the Coastal Zone Management are the following: (1) Sedimentological,
bathymetric, and geochemical studies of lagoons and estuaries; (2) monitoring of planimetric changes of beaches by profiling
beaches during different seasons all along the coast; (3) studies of the nature, distribution, and provenance of black sand
deposits from beaches; (4) studies of the peculiar occurrence of patchy, calm, turbid areas of water in the offshore containing
high suspended sediment concentrate known as mud banks; (5) wave studies involving continuous monitoring of wave data all
along the coast in order to understand wave climate and erosion; (6) sediment movement studies using fluorescent tracer to
aid in the development of ports and harbors; (7) studies on various aspects of offshore.
The outlines of the various programmes discussed in this article will help other states and countries to develop a coastal
zone management programme according to the needs of the state or country and the nature of the problem occurring in the coastal
zone. 相似文献
20.
Kuo-Chuin Wong 《Estuaries and Coasts》1999,22(2):194-205
The buoyant discharge from Delaware Bay forms two separate branches of residual outflow near the bay mouth, one along each shore. Upon exiting the bay, the branch along the Delaware shore turns right to form the southward flowing Delaware coastal current along the inner continental shelf off the Delaware, Maryland, and Virginia coasts. CTD and thermosalinograph, data collected at the mouth of Delaware Bay over two semidiurnal tidal cycles are used to examine the hydrographic distribution at the source region of the Delaware coastal current. In this region the buoyant source water of the coastal current, is largely detached from the shoreline and confined to the top 15 m of the water column over much of the tidal cycles. The core of the coastal current's source water, as defined by the point of salinity minimum, is located over the deep channel well offshore of the Delaware coast. The separation between this buoyant water and the more saline waters right along the Delaware coast and that in the central part of the bay mouth are marked by regions of high horizontal salinity gradients. The horizontal salinity gradients around the inshore and offshore boundaries of the source water of the coastal current are intensified during the flood tide, and clearly defined fronts (with a change of 3‰ over a distance of 150 m) are present at the offshore boundary near the end of the flood tide. The structure of the mean flow and the distribution of the brackish coastal current on the inner continental shelf contribute to the persistence of stratification in the source region off the Delaware shore throughout the ebb and flood tides. In contrast, the ebb-induced stratification in the region off the New Jersey shore is quickly destroyed with the onset of the flood current. 相似文献