共查询到20条相似文献，搜索用时 671 毫秒
1.
Abstract Variational problem for irrotational, incompressible inviscid fluid in finite water depth is considered. Based on the variational principle, a special solution of the problem is presented under the assumption that the dispersion /u and the nonlinearity ?satisfied e = O(fj2) as the Lagrange function is expanded up to O(//). It is shown that the elevation of the free surface should be expanded to // order to ensure the Lagrange function is in fj* order. Comparison the nonlinear free surface profiles obtained from the solution with the corresponding ones obtained from linear solutions showed that the wave crest of the nonlinear wave is steepened but the trough is flattened compared to the linear wave as expected. 相似文献
2.
ImooUcrIONAtfrequendesseveraltirathatofthespeCtralpcak,thewaveelevationhigherordercomPonentS'contributionstothewavespatrumaremoresignificantthanthosefromthelinearcomPonentS.Tick(l959)firstproposedandevaluatedtheserendxidespodrumofunidindionalrandomwaves.TheexpnaionderivedbyDingPingxingetal.(l994)forthesecondxirderspeCtmmisanimProvernentofTick's.TickandDingPingxingetal.didnotaanuntforthirdxirderperturbations,althoughthethirdxirdersolutionefhaonthequadraticspeCtrumisofthesameorderofmagnit… 相似文献
3.
楼菁 《中国海洋湖沼学报》1994,12(4):361-371
A numerical model based on the mild-slope equation of water wave propagation over complicated bathymetry,taking into account the combined effects of refraction,diffraction and dissipation due to wavebreaking is presented.Wave breaking is simulated by modifying the wave height probability density func-tion and the wave energy dissipation mechanism is parameterized according to that of the hydraulic jumpformulation.Solutions of the wave height,phase function,and the wave direction at every grid point areobtained by finite difference approximation of the governing equations,using Gauss-Seidel Iterative Method(GSIM)row by row.Its computational convenience allows it to be applied to large coast regions tostudy the wave transformation problem.Several case studies have been made and the results compare verywell with the experiment data and other model solutions.The capability and utility of the model forreal coast areas are illustrated by application to a shallow bay of northeast Australia. 相似文献
4.
In this paper, long interfacial waves of finite amplitude in uniform basic flows are considered with the assumption that the aspect ratio between wavelength and water depth is small. A new model is derived using the velocities at arbitrary distances from the still water level as the velocity variables instead of the commonly used depth-averaged velocities. This significantly improves the dispersion properties and makes them applicable to a wider range of water depths. Since its derivation requires no assumption on wave amplitude, the model thus can be used to describe waves with arbitrary amplitude. 相似文献
5.
A WEAKLY NONLINEAR WATER WAVE MODEL TAKING INTO ACCOUNT DISPERSION OF WAVE PHASE VELOCITY 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
This paper presents a weakly nonlinear water wave model using a mild slope equation and a new explicit formulation which takes into account dispersion of wave phase velocity, approximates Hedges‘ (1987) nonlinear dispersion relationship, and accords well with the original empirical formula. Comparison of the calculating results with those obtained from the experimental data and those obtained from linear wave theory showed that the present water wave model considering the dispersion of phase ve-locity is rational and in good agreement with experiment data. 相似文献
6.
Combining the 3/2 power law proposed by Toba with the significant wave energy balance equation for wind waves, wave growth
in deep water for short fetch is investigated. It is found that the variations of wave height and period with fetch have the
form of power function with fractional exponents 3/8 and 1/4 respectively. Using these exponents in the power functions and
through data fitting, the concise wind wave growth relations for short fetch are obtained. 相似文献
7.
Studying the relationship between wave steepness and wave age is important for describing wind wave growth with energy balance equation of significant waves. After invoking the dispersion rela- tion of surface gravity wave in deep water, a new relationship between wave steepness and wave age is revealed based on the “3/2-power law” (Toba, 1972), in which wave steepness is a function of wave age with a drag coefficient as a parameter. With a given wave age, a larger drag coefficient would lead to larger wave steepness. This could be interpreted as the result of interaction between wind and waves. Comparing with previous relationships, the newly proposed one is more consistent with observational data in field and laboratory. 相似文献
8.
王发君 《中国海洋湖沼学报》1992,10(1):84-91
Based on a puff model . and together with the consideration of convection , dispersion and descent of suspended waste particles in marine environment , a numerical model is presented to predict the initial sedimentation of waste particles discharged from ocean outfalls in coastal waters and to compute the stable sedimentation rate in homogeneous trde current fields with water depth constant . When the time step selected is small enough , the results from this model agree well with that from the semi-analytical solution , and have sufficient precision for evaluating the impact on the environment caused by sedimentation of waste particles discharged from ocean outfalls. A numerical example is given for predicting the sedimentation of waste particles discharged in Heishijiao , Dalian . 相似文献
9.
Dynamic process simulation with a Savage-Hutter type model for the intrusion of landslide into river 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
Natural damming of rivers by mass movements is a very common and potentially dangerous phenomena which has been documented all over the world. In this paper, a two-layer model of Savage-Hutter type is presented to simulate the dynamic procedure for the intrusion of landslide into rivers. The two-layer shallow water system is derived by depth averaging the incompressible Navier-Stokes equations with the hydrostatic assumption. A high order accuracy scheme based on the finite volume method is proposed to solve the presented model equations. Several numerical tests are performed to verify the realiability and feasibility of the proposed model. The numerical results indicate that the proposed method can be competent for simulating the dynamic process of landslide intrusion into the river. The interaction effect between both layers has a significant impact on the landslide movement, water fluctuation and wave propagation. 相似文献
10.
LIFengqi XIEJun LIYao 《中国海洋大学学报(英文版)》2004,3(1):1-9
1 Introduction Watermassanalysisisanimportantsubjectinphys icaloceanographystudies (PickardandEmery ,1 990 ;YeandLi,1 992 ) .Helland Hansenplottedin 1 91 6theT Scurve ,whichisafterwardsknownasoneoftheT Sdiagrams ,andsuggestedthatawatermasscanbedefinedby… 相似文献
11.
One of the most important parameters for oceanic internal waves (IWs) is their amplitude. We have developed a method to retrieve the IW amplitude from nautical X-Band radar images based on the KdV equation for continuous stratified finite depth system. We have also tested the method of measuring the amplitude of IWs from X-Band radar backscatter image sequences acquired on June 2009 in the northeastern South China Sea. The method was applied in several radar images. Experiments show that the retrieval amplitudes are consistent with the in-situ observational amplitudes of IWs by using the towed thermistor chain and conductivity-temperature-depth (CTD) profile. The uncertainty of the method is also discussed. 相似文献
12.
In order to solve the problems of multi-parameter,multi-extreme and multi-solution in the nonlinear iterative optimization process of Rayleigh wave inversion,the artificial bee colony(ABC)algorithm is selected for global nonlinear inversion.The global nonlinear inversion method does not rely on a strict initial model and does not need to calculate the derivative of the objective function.The ABC algorithm uses the local optimization behavior of each individual artificial bee to finally highlight the global optimal value in the colony,and the convergence speed is faster.While searching for the global optimal solution,an effective local search can also be performed to ensure the reliability of the inversion results.This paper uses the ABC algorithm to perform Rayleigh wave dispersion inversion on the actual seismic data to obtain a clear undergrounding of shear wave velocity profile and accurately identify the location of the high-velocity interlayer.It is verified that the ABC algorithm used in the inversion of the Rayleigh wave dispersion curve is stable and converges quickly. 相似文献
13.
����Krigingͳ�Ƶ�GPS�߳���Ϸ����о� 总被引：3，自引：5，他引：3
??GPS?????????????????????????????????GPS???????????????GPS??????????ú?????????????????????????????????????????????溯??????μ?Kriging?????????????????????????GPS??????????????????????????:????GPS??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????溯??????????????? 相似文献
14.
上海地区地面沉降原因分析 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
以上海中心城区为实验区，利用层次分析法对影响地面沉降因素的权重进行了综合分析 ；同时对地下水与地面沉降进行了拟合相关分析，进一步验证了地面沉降量与地下水抽取速度相关。 相似文献
15.
Finite water depth effect for wave-body problems are studied by continuous Rankine source method and non- desingularized technique. Free surface and seabed surface profiles are represented by continuous panels rather than a discretization by isolated points. These panels are positioned exactly on the fluid boundary surfaces and therefore no desingularization technique is required. Space increment method is applied for both free surface source and seabed source arrangements to reduce computational cost and improve numerical efficiency. Fourth order Runge-Kutta iteration scheme is adopted on the free surface updating at every time step. The finite water depth effect is studied quantitatively for a series of cylinders with different B/T ratios. The accuracy and efficiency of the proposed model are validated by comparison with published numerical results and experimental data. Numerical results show that hydrodynamic coefficients vary for cylinder bodies with different ratios of B/T. For certain set of B/T ratios the effect of finite water depth increases quickly with the increase of motion frequency and becomes stable when frequency is relatively large. It also shows that water depths have larger hydrodynamic effects on cylinder with larger breadth to draft ratios. Both the heave added mass and damping coefficients increase across the frequency range with the water depths decrease for forced heave motion. The water depths have smaller effects on sway motion response than on heave motion response. 相似文献
16.
张国栋 《成都信息工程学院学报》1993,(3)
本文根据Mie散射理论计算了分别由7种不同谱分布构成的四种降水层状水云的单次散射反照率、不对称因子和削弱系数,给出它们的参数化公式,考虑的波长范围是0.3μm～4.7μm的太阳辐射。对光学厚度参数化公式用Stephons的列表数据进行了检验,结果表明拟合精度很高。 相似文献
17.
A THIRD GENERATION SHALLOW WATER WAVE NUMERICAL MODEL-YE-WAM 总被引：5，自引：0，他引：5
This paper pnesents a third gneration shallow Whter disode spedtal wave nbotal medeIYE-WAM based on the spedtal action balance equation. The mode accounts for all edevan effectsof currents on waves, incuding tmpotally and spatialy varying depth and current inded refraction,sttalning and fequency shift and also explidtly takeS into aanunt all source terms, speclally adePth-limited breaking dheipation. In addition, an energy forcing scheme is propond and applied to themode's open boundaries to areUn for the propagution of sedIs into the study spstem The upwinddiffeIenng scheme and a standard hybrid diffdrencing scheme for the propagaion terrn and a simpleEuler method for the source teme are employed. 相似文献
18.
Because of the intrinsic difficulty in determining distributions for wave periods, previous studies on wave period distribution
models have not taken nonlinearity into account and have not performed well in terms of describing and statistically analyzing
the probability density distribution of ocean waves. In this study, a statistical model of random waves is developed using
Stokes wave theory of water wave dynamics. In addition, a new nonlinear probability distribution function for the wave period
is presented with the parameters of spectral density width and nonlinear wave steepness, which is more reasonable as a physical
mechanism. The magnitude of wave steepness determines the intensity of the nonlinear effect, while the spectral width only
changes the energy distribution. The wave steepness is found to be an important parameter in terms of not only dynamics but
also statistics. The value of wave steepness reflects the degree that the wave period distribution skews from the Cauchy distribution,
and it also describes the variation in the distribution function, which resembles that of the wave surface elevation distribution
and wave height distribution. We found that the distribution curves skew leftward and upward as the wave steepness increases.
The wave period observations for the SZFII-1 buoy, made off the coast of Weihai (37°27.6′ N, 122°15.1′ E), China, are used
to verify the new distribution. The coefficient of the correlation between the new distribution and the buoy data at different
spectral widths (ν=0.3−0.5) is within the range of 0.968 6 to 0.991 7. In addition, the Longuet-Higgins (1975) and Sun (1988)
distributions and the new distribution presented in this work are compared. The validations and comparisons indicate that
the new nonlinear probability density distribution fits the buoy measurements better than the Longuet-Higgins and Sun distributions
do. We believe that adoption of the new wave period distribution would improve traditional statistical wave theory. 相似文献
19.
《中国海洋大学学报(英文版)》2021,(4)
Relative dispersion ratio(RDR) can be used to quantify the deviation behavior of a water parcel's trajectory caused by a disturbance in a hydrodynamic system. It can be calculated by using a standard method for determining relative dispersion(RD),which accounts for the growth of the deviation of a cluster of particles from a specific initial time. However, the standard method for computing RD is time consuming. It involves numerous computations on tracing many water parcels. In this study, a new method based on the adjoint method is proposed to acquire a series of RDR fields in one round of tracing. Through this method,the continuous variation in the RDR corresponding to a time series of the disturbance time t can be obtained. The consistency and efficiency of the new method are compared with those of the standard method by applying it to a double-gyre flow and an unsteady Arnold-Beltrami-Childress flow field. Results show that the two methods have good consistency in a finite time span. The new method has a notable speedup for evaluating the RDR at multiple t. 相似文献
20.
Wen et al.'s odhed dewiogh to obtain wind-wave frequency spectrum in deep was used toderive the spectrum in finite depth water. The spedrum S(ω) (ω bein angular frequency) when normalizedwith the zeroth moment m and peak frequercyω。 contains in adrition to the peakness factor P=ω。S(ω。)/m。, a twth parameter n=(2πm。)_(1/2)d (d being water depPth), so the spatrum behavior can bestudies for different ware growth stages and water depths. 相似文献