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1.
Erosion due to waves is an important and actual problem for most coastal areas of the North Sea. The objective of this study was to estimate the impact of wave action on the coastline of Sylt Island. From a 2-year time series (November 1999 to October 2001) of hydrological and wave parameters generated with a coupled wave–current modelling system, a period comprising storm ‘Anatol’ (3–4 December 1999) is used to investigate the effects of waves on currents and water levels and the input of wave energy into the coastline. The wave-induced stress causes an increase of the current velocity of 1 m/s over sand and an additional drift along the coast of about 20 cm/s. This produces a water level increase of more than 20 cm in parts of the tidal basin. The model system also calculates the wave energy input into the coastline. Scenario runs for December 1999 with a water level increase of 50 cm and wind velocity increased by 10% show that the input of the wave energy into the west coast of Sylt Island increases by 30% compared to present conditions. With regard to the forecasted near-future (Woth et al., Ocean Dyn 56:3–15, 2006) increase of strong storm surges, the scenario results indicate an increased risk of coastal erosion in the surf zone of Sylt Island.  相似文献   

2.
The effect of horizontal grid resolution on the horizontal relative dispersion of particle pairs has been investigated on a short time scale, i.e. one tidal M 2 cycle. Of particular interest is the tidal effect on dispersion and transports in coastal waters where small-scale flow features are important. A three-dimensional ocean model has been applied to simulate the tidal flow through the Moskstraumen Maelstrom outside Lofoten in northern Norway, well known for its strong current and whirlpools (Gjevik et al., Nature 388(6645):837–838, 1997; Moe et al., Cont Shelf Res 22(3):485–504, 2002). Simulations with spatial resolution down to 50 m have been carried out. Lagrangian tracers were passively advected with the flow, and Lyapunov exponents and power law exponents have been calculated to analyse the separation statistics. It is found that the relative dispersion of particles on a short time scale (12–24 h) is very sensitive to the grid size and that the spatial variability is also very large, ranging from 0 to 100 km2 over a distance of 100 m. This means that models for prediction of transport and dispersion of oil spills, fish eggs, sea lice etc. using a single diffusion coefficient will be of limited value, unless the models actually resolves the small-scale eddies of the tidal current.  相似文献   

3.
Shear wave splitting parameters represent a useful tool to detail the stress changes occurring in volcanic environments before impending eruptions. In the present paper, we display the parameter estimates obtained through implementation of a semiautomatic algorithm applied to all useful datasets of the following Italian active volcanic areas: Mt. Vesuvius, Campi Flegrei, and Mt. Etna. Most of these datasets have been the object of several studies (Bianco et al., Annali di Geofisica, XXXXIX 2:429–443, 1996, J Volcanol Geotherm Res 82:199–218, 1998a, Geophys Res Lett 25(10):1545–1548, 1998b, Phys Chem Earth 24:977–983, 1999, J Volcanol Geotherm Res 133:229–246, 2004, Geophys J Int 167(2):959–967, 2006; Del Pezzo et al., Bull Seismol Soc Am 94(2):439–452, 2004). Applying the semiautomatic algorithm, we confirmed the results obtained in previous studies, so we do not discuss in much detail each of our findings but give a general overview of the anisotropic features of the investigated Italian volcanoes. In order to make a comparison among the different volcanic areas, we present our results in terms of the main direction of the fast polarization (φ) and percentage of shear wave anisotropy (ξ).  相似文献   

4.
Large-scale zonal flow driven across submarine topography establishes standing Rossby waves. In the presence of stratification, the wave pattern can be represented by barotropic and baroclinic Rossby waves of mixed planetary topographic nature, which are locked to the topography. In the balance of momentum, the wave pattern manifests itself as topographic formstress. This wave-induced formstress has the net effect of braking the flow and reducing the zonal transport. Locally, it may lead to acceleration, and the parts induced by the barotropic and baroclinic waves may have opposing effects. This flow regime occurs in the circumpolar flow around Antarctica. The different roles that the wave-induced formstress plays in homogeneous and stratified flows through a zonal channel are analyzed with the BARBI (BARotropic-Baroclinic-Interaction ocean model, Olbers and Eden, J Phys Oceanogr 33:2719–2737, 2003) model. It is used in complete form and in a low-order version to clarify the different regimes. It is shown that the barotropic formstress arises by topographic locking due to viscous friction and the baroclinic one due to eddy-induced density advection. For the sinusoidal topography used in this study, the transport obeys a law in which friction and wave-induced formstress act as additive resistances, and windstress, the effect of Ekman pumping on the density stratification, and the buoyancy forcing (diapycnal mixing of the stratified water column) of the potential energy stored in the stratification act as additive forcing functions. The dependence of the resistance on the system parameters (lateral viscosity ε, lateral diffusivity κ of eddy density advection, Rossby radius λ, and topography height δ) as well as the dependence of transport on the forcing functions are determined. While the current intensity in a channel with homogeneous density decreases from the viscous flat bottom case in an inverse quadratic law ~δ –2 with increasing topography height and always depends on ε, a stratified system runs into a saturated state in which the transport becomes independent of δ and ε and is determined by the density diffusivity κ rather than the viscosity: κ/λ 2 acts as a vertical eddy viscosity, and the transport is λ 2/κ times the applied forcing. Critical values for the topographic heights in these regimes are identified.  相似文献   

5.
The morphologic changes in estuaries and coastal lagoons are very complex and constitute a challenging task in coastal research. The bathymetric changes result from the combined action of tides, waves, rivers discharge and wind stress in the area of interest. Additionally, an accurate knowledge of the sediment transport is essential to achieve a good morphological characterization. This work establishes the influence of the wave climate on the morphodynamics of the Ria de Aveiro lagoon inlet by analysing the numerical results of the morphodynamic modelling system MORSYS2D. The numerical simulations considered a realistic coupled forcing of tidal currents and waves. The computed sediment fluxes and bathymetric changes are analysed and compared with the erosion and accretion trends obtained from the numerical simulations forced only by tidal currents, in order to establish the wave climate influence. The final bathymetry and the corresponding changes are compared with bathymetric data collected through surveys. It is concluded that: (a) the morphodynamics of the study area is dominated by the wave regime in the lagoon inlet and nearshore areas, while in the inner areas is tidally dominated; and (b) the inclusion of the wave regime forcing constitutes an improvement in order to accurately reproduce the local morphodynamics.  相似文献   

6.
The morphology of the Yangtze Estuary has changed substantially at decadal time scales in response to natural processes, local human interference and reduced sediment supply. Due to its high sediment load, the morphodynamic response time of the estuary is short, providing a valuable semi-natural system to evaluate large-scale estuarine morphodynamic responses to interference. Previous studies primarily addressed local morphologic changes within the estuary, but since an overall sediment balance is missing, it remains unclear whether the estuary as a whole has shifted from sedimentation to erosion in response to reduced riverine sediment supply (e.g. resulting from construction of the Three Gorges Dam). In this paper we examine the morphological changes of two large shoals in the mouth zone (i.e. the Hengsha flat and the Jiuduan shoal) using bathymetric data collected between 1953 and 2016 and a series of satellite images. We observe that the two shoals accreted at different rates before 2010 but reverted to erosion thereafter. Human activities such as dredging and dumping contribute to erosion, masking the impacts of sediment source reduction. The effects of local human intervention (such as the construction of a navigation channel) are instantaneous and are likely to have already resulted in new dynamic equilibrium conditions. The morphodynamic response time of the mouth zone to riverine sediment decrease is further suggested to be >30 years (starting from the mid-1980s). Accounting for the different adaptation time scales of various human activities is essential when interpreting morphodynamic changes in large-scale estuaries and deltas. © 2019 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

7.
This work investigates the recent morphological changes at the inlet of a complex coastal system (Ria de Aveiro lagoon, Portugal). This study was carried out using bathymetric data analysis and numerical simulations obtained with the 2DH morphodynamic modelling system MORSYS2D. The present simulations considered only tidal forcing, and a sensitivity analysis was performed by tuning the formula used to compute the sediment transports. A non-uniform sediment grain size distribution for the Ria de Aveiro inlet is considered in the numerical simulations, based on surveys performed in this area. The model results are analysed to assess if they resemble the observed trends of erosion and deposition, as calculated from bathymetric data. A quantitative analysis of the differences between the bathymetric changes obtained through surveys and the numerical results over a period of 3 years considering different sediment transport formulations shows that the formulations of Ackers and White (1973) and Engelund and Hansen (1967) are the ones that best describe the morphodynamic changes driven by tides in the Ria de Aveiro inlet.  相似文献   

8.
《国际泥沙研究》2019,34(6):591-599
Increasing continental suspended sediment influx to coral reefs is an example of land-sea coupling that requires the identification of sources, magnitude of transport, and controlling processes. In Brazil, a small coastal basin (Macaé River) was identified as a source of suspended sediment to a coral reef on the coast of Cape Armação dos Búzios. Biannual suspended sediment loads were measured at the basin as were fluxes within the estuary and towards the coast during eight tidal cycles. Particle load and yield from this basin were typical of small coastal basins, showing high to moderate slopes and transitional land management. However, the magnitude of the river loads was lower than the sediment transport within the estuary, indicating that the estuary amplifies river fluxes and sustains the transference of suspended sediment alongshore to the coral reef. Nonetheless, the estuary displays both suspended particle retention and export capacity and, therefore, fluxes to the coast and the coral reef occur as episodic events.  相似文献   

9.
《国际泥沙研究》2021,36(6):723-735
This numerical modeling study (i) assesses the influence of the sediment erosion process on the sediment dynamics and subsequent morphological changes of a mixed-sediment environment, the macrotidal Seine estuary, when non-cohesive particles are dominant within bed mixtures (non-cohesive regime), and (ii) investigates respective contributions of bedload and suspended load in these dynamics. A three dimensional (3D) process-based morphodynamic model was set up and run under realistic forcings (including tide, waves, wind, and river discharge) during a 1-year period. Applying erosion homogeneously to bed sediment in the non-cohesive regime, i.e., average erosion parameters in the erosion law (especially the erodibility parameter, E0), leads to higher resuspension of fine sediment due to the presence of coarser fractions within mixtures, compared to the case of an independent treatment of erosion for each sediment class. This results in more pronounced horizontal sediment flux (two-fold increase for sand, +30% for mud) and erosion/deposition patterns (up to a two-fold increase in erosion over shoals, generally associated with some coarsening of bed sediment). Compared to observed bathymetric changes, more relevant erosion/deposition patterns are derived from the model when independent resuspension fluxes are considered in the non-cohesive regime. These results suggest that this kind of approach may be more relevant when local grain-size distributions become heterogeneous and multimodal for non-cohesive particles. Bedload transport appears to be a non-dominant but significant contributor to the sediment dynamics of the Seine Estuary mouth. The residual bedload flux represents, on average, between 17 and 38% of the suspended sand flux, its contribution generally increasing when bed sediment becomes coarser (can become dominant at specific locations). The average orientation of residual fluxes and erosion/deposition patterns caused by bedload generally follow those resulting from suspended sediment dynamics. Sediment mass budgets cumulated over the simulated year reveal a relative contribution of bedload to total mass budgets around 25% over large erosion areas of shoals, which can even become higher in sedimentation zones. However, bedload-induced dynamics can locally differ from the dynamics related to suspended load, resulting in specific residual transport, erosion/deposition patterns, and changes in seabed nature.  相似文献   

10.
Non-linear response of shoreface-connected sand ridges to interventions   总被引：1，自引：1，他引：0  
A non-linear morphodynamic model of a microtidal coastal shelf is used to study the response of shoreface-connected sand ridges and the net sand balance of the shelf to large-scale interventions. The model describes the interaction between storm-driven currents and the erodible bottom. The transport of sediment comprises both bedload and suspended load contributions and is due to the joint action of waves (stirring of sediment from the bed) and net currents (causing transport). Three basic types of interventions are studied: extracting sand from ridges, nourishing sand at the shelf and constructing navigation channels. The model results indicate that for all interventions studied a relatively fast local recovery (time scale of decades to centuries) of the disturbed bathymetry to its original pattern takes place. Readjustment of the global system to its original equilibrium state (the saturation process) occurs on a longer time scale (several centuries). During the adjustment stage, significant net sand exchanges between inner shelf and adjacent outer shelf and near-shore zone occur. The results further suggest that extraction of sand from the shelf and dredging of navigation channels have negative implications for the stability of the beach (its sand volume decreases).Responsible Editor: Iris Grabemann  相似文献   

11.
Coseismic deformation can be determined from strong-motion records of large earthquakes. Iwan et al. (Bull Seismol Soc Am 75:1225–1246, 1985) showed that baseline corrections are often required to obtain reliable coseismic deformation because baseline offsets lead to unrealistic permanent displacements. Boore (Bull Seismol Soc Am 91:1199–1211, 2001) demonstrated that different choices of time points for baseline correction can yield realistically looking displacements, but with variable amplitudes. The baseline correction procedure of Wu and Wu (J Seismol 11:159–170, 2007) improved upon Iwan et al. (Bull Seismol Soc Am 75:1225–1246, 1985) and achieved stable results. However, their time points for baseline correction were chosen by a recursive process with an artificial criterion. In this study, we follow the procedure of Wu and Wu (J Seismol 11:159–170, 2007) but use the ratio of energy distribution in accelerograms as the criterion to determine the time points of baseline correction automatically, thus avoiding the manual choice of time points and speeding up the estimation of coseismic deformation. We use the 1999 Chi-Chi earthquake in central Taiwan and the 2003 Chengkung and 2006 Taitung earthquakes in eastern Taiwan to illustrate this new approach. Comparison between the results from this and previous studies shows that our new procedure is suitable for quick and reliable determination of coseismic deformation from strong-motion records.  相似文献   

12.
The unconditional stochastic studies on groundwater flow and solute transport in a nonstationary conductivity field show that the standard deviations of the hydraulic head and solute flux are very large in comparison with their mean values (Zhang et al. in Water Resour Res 36:2107–2120, 2000; Wu et al. in J Hydrol 275:208–228, 2003; Hu et al. in Adv Water Resour 26:513–531, 2003). In this study, we develop a numerical method of moments conditioning on measurements of hydraulic conductivity and head to reduce the variances of the head and the solute flux. A Lagrangian perturbation method is applied to develop the framework for solute transport in a nonstationary flow field. Since analytically derived moments equations are too complicated to solve analytically, a numerical finite difference method is implemented to obtain the solutions. Instead of using an unconditional conductivity field as an input to calculate groundwater velocity, we combine a geostatistical method and a method of moment for flow to conditionally simulate the distributions of head and velocity based on the measurements of hydraulic conductivity and head at some points. The developed theory is applied in several case studies to investigate the influences of the measurements of hydraulic conductivity and/or the hydraulic head on the variances of the predictive head and the solute flux in nonstationary flow fields. The study results show that the conditional calculation will significantly reduce the head variance. Since the hydraulic head measurement points are treated as the interior boundary (Dirichlet boundary) conditions, conditioning on both the hydraulic conductivity and the head measurements is much better than conditioning only on conductivity measurements for reduction of head variance. However, for solute flux, variance reduction by the conditional study is not so significant.  相似文献   

13.
As part I of a sequence of two papers, previously developed L-moments by Hosking (J R Stat Soc Ser B Methodol 52(2):105–124, 1990), and the LH-moments by Wang (Water Resour Res 33(12):2841–2848, 1997) are re-visited. New relationships are developed for regional homogeneity analysis by the LH-moments, and further establishment of regional homogeneity is investigated. Previous works of Hosking (J R Stat Soc Ser B Methodol 52(2):105–124, 1990) and Wang (Water Resour Res 33(12):2841–2848, 1997) on L-moments and LH-moments for the generalized extreme value (GEV) distribution are extended to the generalized Pareto (GPA) and the generalized logistic (GLO) distributions. The Karkhe watershed, located in western Iran is used as a case study area. Regional homogeneity was investigated by first assuming the entire study area as one regional cluster. Then the entire study area was designated “homogeneous” by the L-moments (L); and was designated “heterogeneous” by all four levels of the LH-moments (L1 to L4). The k-means method was used to investigate the case of two regional clusters. All levels of the L- and LH-moments designated the upper watershed (region A), “homogeneous”, and the lower watershed (region B) “possibly-homogeneous”. The L3 level of the GPA and the L4 level of the GLO were selected for regions A and B, respectively. Wang (Water Resour Res 33(12):2841–2848, 1997) identified a reversing trend in improved performance of the GEV distribution at the LH-moments level of L3 (during the goodness-of-fit test). Similar results were also obtained in this research for the GEV distribution. However, for the case of the GPA distribution the reversing trend started at L4 for region A; and at L2 for region B. As for the case of the GLO, an improved performance was observed for all levels (moving from L to L4); for both regions.  相似文献   

14.
The morphodynamics of shallow, vertically well-mixed estuaries, characterised by tidal flats and deeper channels, have been investigated. This paper examines what contributes to flood/ebb-dominant sediment transport in localised regions through a 2D model study (using the TELEMAC modelling system). The Dyfi Estuary in Wales, UK has been used as a case study and, together with idealised estuary shapes, shows that shallow water depths lead to flood dominance in the inner estuary whilst tidal flats and deep channels cause ebb dominance in the outer estuary. For medium sands and with an artificially ‘flattened’ bathymetry (i.e. no tidal flats), the net sediment transport switches from ebb-dominant to flood-dominant where the parameter a/h (local tidal amplitude ÷ local tidally averaged water depth) exceeds 1.2. Sea level rise will reduce this critical value of a/h and also reduce the ebb-directed sediment transport significantly, leading to a flood-dominated estuarine system. A similar pattern, albeit with greater transport, was simulated with tidal flats included and also with a reduced grain size. This suggests that analogous classifications for flood/ebb asymmetry of the tide in estuaries as a whole may not represent the local sediment transport in sufficient detail. Through the Dyfi simulations, the above criterion involving a/h is shown to be complicated further by augmented flow past a spit at the estuary mouth which gives rise to a self-maintaining scour hole. Simulations of one year of bed evolution in an idealised flat-bottomed estuary, including tidal flow past a spit, recreate the flood/ebb dominance on either side of the spit and the formation of a scour hole in between. The erosion rate at the centre of the hole is reduced as the hole deepens, suggesting the establishment of a self-maintaining equilibrium state.  相似文献   

15.
In this study, an inexact two-stage stochastic partial programming (ITSPP) method is developed for tackling uncertainties presented as intervals and partial probability distributions. A scenario-based interactive algorithm is proposed to solve the ITSPP model. This algorithm is implemented through: (i) obtaining extreme points of the linear partial information (LPI); (ii) generating an inexact two-stage stochastic programming (ITSP) model under each extreme point; (iii) solving ITSP models through interactive algorithm proposed by Huang and Loucks (Civil Eng Environ Syst 17:95–118, 2000); (iv) acquiring the interval solutions under each extreme point and the final optimal interval for the objective function. The developed method is applied to a case study for water-resources planning. The modelling results can generate a series of decision alternatives under various system conditions, and thus help decision makers identify the desired water-resources management policies under uncertainty.  相似文献   

16.
Turbulent shear flows on shallow continental shelves (here shallow means that the interaction with the solid, no-slip bottom is important) are of great importance because tide- and wind-driven flows on the shelf are drivers of the transfer of momentum, heat, and mass (gas) across the air–sea interface. These turbulent flows play an important role because vertical mixing and current are vectors for the transport of sediment and bioactive material on continental shelves. Understanding the dynamics of this class of flows presents complications because of the presence of a free surface and also because the flow can be driven by a pressure gradient (a tidal current), a stress at the free surface (a wind-driven current), or a combination of both. In addition, the flow can be modified by the presence of a wave field that can induce Langmuir circulation (Langmuir, Science 87:119–123, 1938). Large eddy simulation is used to quantify the effects of pressure gradient and wind shear on the distinctive structures of the turbulent flow. From these computations, an understanding of the physics governing the turbulence of pressure-driven and wind-driven flows, how they can interact in a normal or a tangential direction, and the effect of wave forcing on these flows is obtained.  相似文献   

17.
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18.
The Darss–Zingst peninsula at the southern Baltic Sea is a typical wave-dominated barrier island system which includes an outer barrier island and an inner lagoon. The formation of the Darss–Zingst peninsula dates back to the Littorina Transgression onset about 8,000 cal BP. It originated from several discrete islands, has been reshaped by littoral currents, wind-induced waves during the last 8,000 years and evolved into a complex barrier island system as today; thus, it may serve as an example to study the coastal evolution under long-term climate change. A methodology for developing a long-term (decadal-to-centennial) process-based morphodynamic model for the southern Baltic coastal environment is presented here. The methodology consists of two main components: (1) a preliminary analysis of the key processes driving the morphological evolution of the study area based on statistical analysis of meteorological data and sensitivity studies; (2) a multi-scale high-resolution process-based model. The process-based model is structured into eight main modules. The two-dimensional vertically integrated circulation module, the wave module, the bottom boundary layer module, the sediment transport module, the cliff erosion module and the nearshore storm module are real-time calculation modules which aim at solving the short-term processes. A bathymetry update module and a long-term control function set, in which the ‘reduction’ concepts and technique for morphological update acceleration are implemented, are integrated to up-scale the effects of short-term processes to a decadal-to-centennial scale. A series of multi-scale modelling strategies are implemented in the application of the model to the research area. Successful hindcast of the coastline change of the Darss–Zingst peninsula for the last 300 years validates the modelling methodology. Model results indicate that the coastline change of the Darss–Zingst peninsula is dominated by mechanisms acting on different time scales. The coastlines of Darss and the island of Hiddensee are mainly reshaped by long-term effects of waves and longshore currents, while the coastline change of the Zingst peninsula is due to a combination of long-term effects of waves and short-term effects caused by wind storms.  相似文献   

19.
Knowledge of the physical processes acting at inlet systems and their interaction with sediments and sediment bodies is important to the understanding of such environments. The objectives of this study are to identify and assess the relative importance of the controlling processes across the complex sandbar system at the Teign inlet (Teignmouth, UK) through the combined application of a numerical model, field data and Argus video images. This allows the determination of the regions dominated by wave processes or by tidal processes and definition of the variability of these regions under different wave, tide and river-discharge conditions. Modelling experiments carried out for one stage of the evolution of the system show that the interaction between tidal motion and waves generates complex circulation patterns that drive the local sediment transport and sandbar dynamics, producing a cyclic morphological behaviour of the sandbars that form the ebb-tidal delta. The relative importance of each physical process on the sediment transport and consequent morphodynamics varies across the region. The main inlet channel is dominated by tidal action that directs the sediment transport as a consequence of the varying tidal flow asymmetry, resulting in net offshore transport. Sediment transport over the shoals and secondary channels at both sides of the main channel is dominated by wave-related processes, displacing sediment in the onshore direction. The interaction between waves and tide-generated currents controls the transport over the submerged sandbar that defines the channels seaward extend. High river discharge events are also proven to be important in this region, as they can change sediment-transport patterns across the area.Responsible Editor: Iris Grabemann  相似文献   

20.
In this article, we describe the dynamics of pH, O2 and H2S in the top 5–10 cm of an intertidal flat consisting of permeable sand. These dynamics were measured at the low water line and higher up the flat and during several seasons. Together with pore water nutrient data, the dynamics confirm that two types of transport act as driving forces for the cycling of elements (Billerbeck et al. 2006b): Fast surface dynamics of pore water chemistry occur only during inundation. Thus, they must be driven by hydraulics (tidal and wave action) and are highly dependent on weather conditions. This was demonstrated clearly by quick variation in oxygen penetration depth: Seeps are active at low tide only, indicating that the pore water flow in them is driven by a pressure head developing at low tide. The seeps are fed by slow transport of pore water over long distances in the deeper sediment. In the seeps, high concentrations of degradation products such as nutrients and sulphide were found, showing them to be the outlets of deep-seated degradation processes. The degradation products appear toxic for bioturbating/bioirrigating organisms, as a consequence of which, these were absent in the wider seep areas. These two mechanisms driving advection determine oxygen dynamics in these flats, whereas bioirrigation plays a minor role. The deep circulation causes a characteristic distribution of strongly reduced pore water near the low water line and rather more oxidised sediments in the centre of the flats. The two combined transport phenomena determine the fluxes of solutes and gases from the sediment to the surface water and in this way create specific niches for various types of microorganisms.  相似文献   

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