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1.
Results of estimating the directional wave fields in front of a detached breakwater are presented here in this paper. Two of non-phase-locked methods, i.e., the Maximum Likelihood Method (MLM) and the Extended Maximum Entropy Principle Method (EMEP), were adopted for the purpose. In general, the latter outperforms the former. It is shown that the reflection coefficients decrease with increasing distances away from the detached breakwater, and within four wavelengths from the detached breakwater, the rate of the decrease is faster for wave fields having larger directional spreads. When the measuring distance is more than four wavelengths away from the detached breakwaters, the reflection coefficients tend to reach to a constant value. It is shown that, with the use of the non-phase-locked EMEP method, the effective region can be extended, as compared with the results of Huntley and Davidson [J. Waterw. Port Coast. Ocean Eng. 124 (1998) 312]. 相似文献
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The performance of the new wave diffraction feature of the shallow-water spectral model SWAN, particularly its ability to predict the multidirectional wave transformation around shore-parallel emerged breakwaters is examined using laboratory and field data. Comparison between model predictions and field measurements of directional spectra was used to identify the importance of various wave transformation processes in the evolution of the directional wave field. First, the model was evaluated against laboratory measurements of diffracted multidirectional waves around a breakwater shoulder. Excellent agreement between the model predictions and measurements was found for broad frequency and directional spectra. The performance of the model worsened with decreasing frequency and directional spread. Next, the performance of the model with regard to diffraction–refraction was assessed for directional wave spectra around detached breakwaters. Seven different field cases were considered: three wind–sea spectra with broad frequency and directional distributions, each coming from a different direction; two swell–sea bimodal spectra; and two swell spectra with narrow frequency and directional distributions. The new diffraction functionality in SWAN improved the prediction of wave heights around shore-parallel breakwaters. Processes such as beach reflection and wave transmission through breakwaters seem to have a significant role on transformation of swell waves behind the breakwaters. Bottom friction and wave–current interactions were less important, while the difference in frequency and directional distribution might be associated with seiching. 相似文献
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A numerical model is presented for the prediction of the wave field due to the diffraction of directional random waves in a harbor of arbitrary shape with partially reflecting boundaries. The water depth is assumed uniform and the method is based upon the superposition of diffraction solutions for monochromatic waves obtained by a two-dimensional boundary integral equation approach. The incident wave conditions are specified using a discrete form of the Mitsuyasu directional spectrum. The present numerical model has been validated through comparisons with previous experimental data and theoretical results for both regular and random wave diffraction by offshore breakwaters and in harbors. Good agreement was obtained in all cases. Based on these comparisons it is concluded that the present numerical model is an accurate and efficient tool to predict the wave field inside a harbor or around a breakwater in many practical applications. 相似文献
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A numerical model for coastal water wave motion that includes an effective method for treatment of non-reflecting boundaries is presented. The second-order one-way wave equation to approximate the non-reflecting boundary condition is found to be excellent and it ensures a very low level of reflection for waves approaching the boundary at a fairly wide range of the incidence angle. If the Newman approximation is adopted, the resulting boundary condition has a unique property to allow the free propagation of wave components along the boundary. The study is also based on a newly derived mild-slope wave equation system that can be easily made compatible to the one-way wave equation. The equation system is theoretically more accurate than the previous equations in terms of the mild-slope assumption. The finite difference method defined on a staggered grid is employed to solve the basic equations and to implement the non-reflecting boundary condition. For verification, the numerical model is then applied to three coastal water wave problems including the classical problem of plane wave diffraction by a vertical circular cylinder, the problem of combined wave diffraction and refraction over a submerged hump in the open sea, and the wave deformation around a detached breakwater. In all cases, the numerical results are demonstrated to agree very well with the relevant analytical solutions or with experimental data. It is thus concluded that the numerical model proposed in this study is effective and advantageous. 相似文献
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Based on the wave radiation and diffraction theory, this paper investigates a new type breakwater with upper arcshaped plate by using the boundary element method(BEM). By comparing with other three designs of plate type breakwater(lower arc-shaped plate, single horizontal plate and double horizontal plate), this new type breakwater has been proved more effective. The wave exiting force, transmission and reflection coefficients are analyzed and discussed. In order to reveal the wave elimination mechanism of this type of breakwater, the velocity field around the breakwater is obtained. It is shown that:(1) The sway exciting force is minimal.(2) When the ratio of the submergence and wave amplitude is 0.05, the wave elimination effect will increase by 50% compared with other three types of breakwater.(3) The obvious backflow is found above the plate in the velocity field analysis. 相似文献
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Oblique wave diffraction by segmented offshore breakwaters 总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3
This paper presents a theoretical model to examine oblique wave diffraction by a detached breakwater system consisting of an infinite row of regularly-spaced thin, impermeable structures located in water of uniform depth. The fluid is assumed incompressible and inviscid and to undergo irrotational motion. Wave heights are assumed to be sufficiently small such that linear wave theory is applicable. The eigenfunction expansion solution of Dalrymple and Martin (1990) for normal wave incidence on this breakwater geometry is modified herein to study oblique wave effects. Numerical results, in the form of contour maps of the relative wave height behind the structure, or complex reflection coefficients, are presented for a range of wave and breakwater parameters. The accuracy of the present model is verified by a comparison with existing results for the limiting cases of an isolated detached breakwater, and a breakwater with a single gap. Also, for the multi-gap breakwater, the present solution is further verified for both normal and oblique wave incidence with results in the open literature. 相似文献
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多方向不规则波传播变形数值模拟 总被引：2，自引：1，他引：1
在推广的缓坡方程数学模型基础上建立了多方向不规则波数学模型,综合考虑了波浪折射、绕射、反射、底摩擦和风能输入等因素。基于线性波浪理论,将波浪方向谱在频率和方向上按等能量分割法离散后,分别计算各组成波的传播变形,再计算合成波要素。缓坡方程数学模型采用改进的ADI法求解,计算效率高,稳定性好。采用椭圆形浅滩不规则波模型试验结果和单突堤不规则波绕射理论解对数学模型进行了验证,数值模拟结果和试验值及理论解符合良好。利用该模型进行了某港港内波浪折射、绕射和反射的联合数值模拟,给出了合理的港内波高分布。 相似文献
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In this study we investigate how the wave energy deficit in the lee of an array of overtopping type wave energy converting devices (WECs), redistributes with distance from the array due to the natural variability of the wave climate and wave structure interactions. Wave directional spreading has previously been identified as the dominant mechanism that disperses the wave energy deficit, reducing the maximum wave height reduction with increasing distance from the array. In addition to this when waves pass by objects such as an overtopping type WEC device, diffracted waves re-distribute the incident wave energy and create a complex interference pattern. The effect of wave energy redistribution from diffraction on the wave energy shadow in the near and far field is less obvious. In this study, we present an approximate analytical solution that describes the diffracted and transmitted wave field about a single row array of overtopping type WECs, under random wave conditions. This is achieved with multiple superpositions of the analytical solutions for monochromatic unidirectional waves about a semi-infinite breakwater, extended to account for partial reflection and transmission. The solution is used to investigate the sensitivity of the far field wave energy shadow to the array configuration, level of energy extraction, incident wave climate, and diffraction. Our results suggest that diffraction spreads part of the wave energy passing through the array, away from the direct shadow region of the array. This, in part, counteracts the dispersion of the wave energy deficit from directional spreading. 相似文献
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Spectral wave transformation model for simulating refraction-diffraction with strongly reflecting coastal structures 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
On the basis of the wave action balance equation which incorporates refraction, diffraction, reflection and wave-current interaction, a directional spectral wave transformation model WABED is developed for predicting the irregular wave refraction-diffraction with strongly reflecting structures in coastal regions. In the model, diffraction is taken into account by introducing a term formulated from a parabolic approximation wave equation, and reflection is calculated through a back-marching numerical approach at the reflecting boundary. Two experimental data sets are used to examine the performance of present model with regard to wave characteristics around reflecting coastal structures. One is from a physical experiment at idealized inlet with parallel jetties, while the other is from a laboratory study on a coastal project of the concave breakwater. Reasonably good agreements are found for both cases, revealing the applicability of the present model for predicting combined wave refraction-diffraction processes with strongly reflecting coastal structures. 相似文献
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Studies on the possible effects of a detached breakwater on the characteristics of the wavefield are carried out experimentally.A serpentine wave generator is used to generate both uni- andmulti-directional waves.Characteristics of the wave fields analyzed here include the wave fielddirectionality,and the probability distributions of surface elevations and of the wave heights.Owing to thepresence of the breakwater,waves outside the harbour are found to be reflected with,however,concen-trated energy within the harbour entrance.In general,wave heights can be approximated with a Rayleighdistribution,with occasional deviations from the theory.This occurs more frequently for waves with high-er peak frequency values than for those with lower values both for uni-and multi-directional waves.Sur-face elevations can be approximated with the Gaussian model.although the Edgeworth's form of the typeA Gram-Charlier series expansions would yield better fits.Wave directionality is found to have nodiscernible effects on 相似文献
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A Numerical Investigation of the Reduction of Solitary Wave Runup by A Row of Vertical Slotted Piles
To improve the current understanding of the reduction of tsunami-like solitary wave runup by the pile breakwater on a sloping beach, we developed a 3D numerical wave tank based on the CFD tool OpenFOAM in this study. The Navier Stokes equations were applied to solve the two-phase incompressible flow, combined with an LES model to solve the turbulence and a VOF method to capture the free surface. The adopted model was firstly validated with existing empirical formulas for solitary wave runup on the slope without the pile structure. It is then validated using our new laboratory observations of the free surface elevation, the velocity and the pressure around a row of vertical slotted piles subjected to solitary waves, as well as the wave runup on the slope behind the piles. Subsequently, a set of numerical simulations were implemented to analyze the wave reflection, the wave transmission, and the shoreline runup with various offshore wave heights, offshore water depths, adjacent pile spaces and beach slopes. Finally, an improved empirical equation accounting for the maximum wave runup on the slope was proposed by taking the presence of the pile breakwater into consideration. 相似文献
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In the present paper, by introducing the effective wave elevation, we transform the extended ellip- tic mild-slope equation with bottom friction, wave breaking and steep or rapidly varying bottom topography to the simplest time-dependent hyperbolic equation. Based on this equation and the empirical nonlinear amplitude dispersion relation proposed by Li et al. (2003), the numerical scheme is established. Error analysis by Taylor expansion method shows that the numerical stability of the present model succeeds the merits in Song et al. (2007)’s model because of the introduced dissipation terms. For the purpose of verifying its performance on wave nonlinearity, rapidly vary- ing topography and wave breaking, the present model is applied to study: (1) wave refraction and diffraction over a submerged elliptic shoal on a slope (Berkhoff et al., 1982); (2) Bragg reflection of monochromatic waves from the sinusoidal ripples (Davies and Heathershaw, 1985); (3) wave transformation near a shore attached breakwater (Watanabe and Maruyama, 1986). Comparisons of the numerical solutions with the experimental or theoretical ones or with those of other models (REF/DIF model and FUNWAVE model) show good results, which indicate that the present model is capable of giving favorably predictions of wave refraction, diffraction, reflection, shoaling, bottom friction, breaking energy dissipation and weak nonlinearity in the near shore zone. 相似文献
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《Coastal Engineering》1999,37(2):175-192
Nonlinear wave diffraction is studied using the nonlinear time-dependent mild slope equation. The equations are solved using a combined Newton–Raphson and Crank–Nicolson finite difference scheme. The model results are verified for propagation of highly nonlinear waves over uniform depth and wave diffraction due to semi-finite breakwater and breakwater gap with different widths. Comparison between the numerical and experimental results indicates that the model is capable of simulating nonlinear wave diffraction. The model is applied to study the effect of the wave nonlinearity on the diffraction coefficient for a semi-infinite breakwater and a breakwater gap. 相似文献
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O.S. Rageh 《Ocean Engineering》2009,36(14):1112-1118
The efficiency of the breakwater, which consists of caissons supported on two or three rows of piles, was studied using physical models. The efficiency of the breakwater is presented as a function of the transmission, reflection and the wave energy dissipation coefficients. Regular waves with wide ranges of wave heights and periods and constant water depth were used. Different characteristics of the caisson structure and the supporting pile system were also tested. It was found that, the transmission coefficient (kt) decreases with increasing the relative breakwater draft D/L, increasing the relative breakwater width B/h, and decreasing the piles gap-diameter ratio G/d. It is possible to achieve kt values less than 0.25 when D/L≥0.1. The reflection coefficient takes the opposite trend especially when D/L≤0.15. The proposed breakwater dissipates about 10-25% of the incident wave energy. Also, simple empirical equations are developed for estimating the wave transmission and reflection. In addition, the proposed breakwater model is efficient compared with other floating breakwaters. 相似文献
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《Coastal Engineering》2001,44(2):141-151
An analytical model has been developed that predicts the reflection of irregular waves normally incident upon a perforated-wall caisson breakwater. To examine the predictability of the developed model, laboratory experiments have been conducted for the reflection of irregular waves of various significant wave heights and periods impinging upon breakwaters having various wave chamber widths. For frequency-averaged reflection coefficients, though the overall agreement is fairly good between measurement and calculation, the model somewhat over-predicts the reflection coefficients at larger values, and under-predicts at smaller values. The model also underestimates the energy loss coefficients as wave reflection becomes larger. These differences occur because the model neglects the evanescent waves near the breakwater, which increase the energy loss at the perforated wall. The frequency-averaged reflection coefficient shows a minimum when the wave chamber width is approximately 0.2 times the significant wavelength, and it decreases with increasing wave steepness. Finally, it is shown that the reflection of irregular waves from a perforated-wall caisson breakwater depends on the wave frequency, so that the reflected wave spectrum shows a frequency dependent oscillatory behavior. 相似文献
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Pasquale Filianoti 《Ocean Engineering》2000,27(11):551
The diffraction coefficient in some areas of the geometric shadow behind a detached breakwater or a breakwater gap proves to be markedly greater for random wind-generated waves than for periodic waves. The cause becomes clear in the light of the general theory of three-dimensional wave groups, which shows how some exceptionally large wave heights can occur in the geometric shadow. 相似文献
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Based on the extended mild-slope equation, the wind wave model (WWM; Hsu et al., 2005) is modified to account for wave refraction, diffraction and reflection for wind waves propagating over a rapidly varying seabed in the presence of current. The combined effect of the higher-order bottom effect terms is incorporated into the wave action balance equation through the correction of the wavenumber and propagation velocities using a refraction–diffraction correction parameter. The relative importance of additional terms including higher-order bottom components, the wave–bottom interaction source term and wave–current interaction that influence the refraction–diffraction correction parameter is discussed. The applicability of the proposed model to calculate a wave transformation over an elliptic shoal, a series of parallel submerged breakwater induced Bragg scattering and wave–current interaction is evaluated. Numerical results show that the present model provides better predictions of the wave amplitude as compared with the phase-decoupled model of Holthuijsen et al. (2003). 相似文献