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1.
《Ocean Modelling》2011,36(4):314-331
Hurricane-induced storm surge, waves, and coastal inundation in the northeastern Gulf of Mexico region during Hurricane Ivan in 2004 are simulated using a fine grid coastal surge model CH3D (Curvilinear-grid Hydrodynamics in 3D) coupled to a coastal wave model SWAN, with open boundary conditions provided by a basin-scale surge model ADCIRC (Advanced CIRCulation) and a basin-scale wave model WW3 (WaveWatch-III). The H1wind, a reanalysis 10-m wind produced by the NOAA/AOML Hurricane Research Division (HRD), and a relatively simple analytical wind model are used, incorporating the effect of land dissipation on hurricane wind. Detailed comparison shows good agreement between the simulated and measured wind, waves, surge, and high water marks. Coastal storm surge along the coast is around 2–3 m, while peak surge on the order of 3.5 m is found near Pensacola, which is slightly to the east of the landfall location on Dauphin Island. Wind waves reach 20 m at the Mobile South station (National Data Buoy Center buoy 42040) on the shelf and 2 m inside the Pensacola/Escambia Bay. Model results show that wave-induced surge (total surge subtracted by the meteorologically-induced surge due to wind and pressure) accounts for 20–30% of the peak surge, while errors of the simulated surge and waves are generally within 10% of measured data. The extent of the simulated inundation region is increased when the effects of waves are included. Surge elevations simulated by the 3D model are generally up to 15% higher than that by the 2D model, and the effects of waves are more pronounced in the 3D results. The 3D model results inside the Pensacola/Escambia Bay show significant vertical variation in the horizontal currents. While the estuary has little impact on the surge elevation along the open coastal water, surge at the head of Escambia Bay is more than 50% higher than that at the open coast with 1.5 h delay.  相似文献   

2.
Boundary currents and internal waves determine cross-slope zonation of erosion and deposition in the Faeroe-Shetland Channel. Currents were measured at 8 and 34–50 m above the bottom at three mooring sites (502, 595 and 708 m depth) for 14 days. The structure of the water column was evaluated from CTD sections, and included nepheloid layers and particulate matter concentrations. Indicators for recent deposition in the sediment (organic carbon, phytopigments, 210Pb) were measured at eight stations across the slope. Strong near-bottom currents at the upper slope sustain down-slope particle transport in a benthic nepheloid layer, which is eroded under the influence of critically reflecting M2 internal tidal waves at 350–550 m, where the major pycnocline meets the sloping bottom. Beam attenuation profiles confirmed the presence of intermediate nepheloid layers intruding into the Channel along the major pycnocline, and elevated concentrations of particulate matter and chlorophyll-a were measured at this depth. Near-bottom currents decreased with depth, thus allowing particle deposition down the slope. Inventories of excess 210Pb activity in the sediment deeper than 600 m were higher than what was expected on the basis of atmospheric input of 210Pb and production in the water column, thus indicating additional lateral inputs. Simple calculations showed that off-slope input of particles from areas shallower than 600 m may be responsible for the enhanced deposition at greater depths.  相似文献   

3.
Field measurements were conducted in Mont-Saint-Michel Bay, a megatidal embayment (spring tidal range of 15 m), in order to monitor, over the course of a tidal cycle, sediment transport variability due to waves and tides on the upper part of a tidal flat characterised by shallow water depths. Sensors used to measure currents, water depth and turbidity were installed just above the bed (0.04 m). Two experiments were conducted under contrasting hydrodynamic conditions. The results highlight wave activity over the tidal flat even though observed wind waves were largely dissipated due to the very shallow water depths. Very high suspended sediment concentrations (up to 6 kg/m3) were recorded in the presence of wave activity at the beginning of the local flood, when significant sediment transport occurred, up to 7 times as much as under conditions of no wave activity. This influence may be attributed to the direct action of waves on bed sediments, to wave-induced liquefaction, and to the erosive action of waves on tidal channel banks. The sediment composition, comprising a clay fraction of 2-5%, may also enhance sediment transport by reducing critical shear stress through the sand lubrication effect. The results also show that antecedent meteorological conditions play an important role in suspended sediment transport on the tidal flat. Total sediment flux directions show a net transport towards the inner part of the bay that contributes to deposition over the adjacent salt marshes, and this tendency also prevails during strong wave conditions. Such sediment transport is characterised by significant variability over the course of the tidal cycle. During fair and moderate weather conditions, 83% and 71% of the total flux was observed, respectively, over only 11% and 28% of the duration of the local tidal cycle and with water depths between 0.04 and 0.3 m. These results suggest that in order to improve our understanding of sediment budgets in this type of coastal environment, it is essential to record data just at the beginning and at the end of tidal submergence close to the bed.  相似文献   

4.
The statistical distribution of wave orbital velocity in intermediate coastal water depth has been quantitatively determined from the comprehensive field velocity data collected near the seabed in this study. Two ocean ADV current meters, which were mounted at 0.5 m above the seabed on two separate stainless steel tripods sitting on the seabed, were used to measure instantaneous water particle velocities at a 2 Hz sampling rate for 17.07 min every hour in two coastal water depths of 11 m and 23 m in nine field deployments over a period of 2 years. The zero-crossing method is applied to analyse the field velocity data collected in each field deployment to obtain a large sample of wave orbital velocity amplitudes of individual waves. Based on the collected field velocity data, it is found that the histogram of instantaneous wave orbital velocities perfectly follows the Gaussian distribution as commonly assumed, while the histogram of wave orbital velocity amplitudes is less accurately described by the Rayleigh distribution than the modified Rayleigh and the Weibull distribution. It is also found that large orbital velocity amplitudes are generally overestimated by the Rayleigh distribution, but well predicted by the modified Rayleigh and the Weibull distribution. The expected value of maximum orbital velocity in a velocity record of finite size is also derived from the three distributions and found to agree well with the present field data.  相似文献   

5.
A six-month-long study was conducted of the fate of turbid river plumes from the Enipein watershed in Pohnpei, Federated States of Micronesia. Pohnpei is one of the wettest places on earth, with a mean annual rainfall exceeding 4 m in the lowlands and 8 m in the highlands. The river waters were clear of sediment except after major storms with rainfall exceeding 5 cm day−1. Following a storm, the river plume spread in the mangrove fringed estuary and in the coral reef lagoon. The waters were highly stratified in temperature, salinity, and suspended sediment concentration. The brackish water was flushed out in four days, while the suspended sediment all settled out in the estuary, in the mangroves, and in the lagoon including on the coral reefs, in less than one day. The mean rate of sedimentation exceeded 35 mg cm−2 d−1 both over the mangroves and on the adjacent coral reefs. While this leads to no detrimental effects on the mangroves, sediment smothers corals and leads to substantial coral mortality in the lagoon. The mud is not flushed out from the lagoon because there are no strong currents from waves or tides. This high sedimentation rate is attributable to poor farming and land-use practices on the upland areas.  相似文献   

6.
The short-term wave characteristics are required for design and operation of industrial facilities within the coastal areas. Water surface displacement measured using waverider buoy moored at 13 m water depth in the eastern Arabian Sea off the west coast of India have been analyzed to study the short-term statistics of waves covering full one year period. The study indicates that the values of the observed maximum wave height as a function of duration are not consistent with the theoretical expected value. There is significant variation (1.29–2.19) in the ratio between highest 1% wave and significant wave height compared to the theoretical value of 1.67. The data recorded at 13 m water depth indicates that the significant wave height is ∼8% lower than that predicted by the conventional Rayleigh distribution. The theoretical bivariate log-normal distribution represents the joint distributions of wave heights and periods for the study area.  相似文献   

7.
Waves at 15 m water depth in the northern Arabian Sea are measured during the summer monsoon for a period of 45 days and the characteristics are described. The significant wave height varied from 1.1 to 4.5 m with an average value of 2.5 m. 75% of the wave height at the measurement location is due to the swells arriving from the south-west and the remaining is due to the seas from south-west to north-west. Wave age of the measured data indicates that the waves in the nearshore waters of northern Arabian Sea during the summer monsoon are swells with young sea.  相似文献   

8.
Multibeam swath bathymetric data collected in 95–120 m water depth on Australia’s North West Shelf revealed two distinct populations of sand waves: a laterally extensive, low-amplitude composite form comprising superimposed dunes and ripples, and a laterally restricted form which has unusually high bedform heights and slopes. These large subaqueous sand waves comprise bioclastic ooid/peloid sand. Significantly, evidence of seabed fluid flow was detected in association with the high-amplitude sand waves. This evidence includes seabed pockmarks approximately 2–15 m in diameter imaged with side-scan sonar, tubular and massive carbonate concretions dredged from the seabed, and potential active venting of a fluid plume from the seabed observed during an underwater camera tow. Molecular and isotopic analyses of carbonate concretions collected from within pockmarks associated with the high-amplitude sand waves indicate that the fluids from which they precipitated comprise modern seawater and are not related to thermogenic fluids or microbial gases. The fluid flow is interpreted to be driven by macrotidal currents flowing over the relatively steep slopes of the high-amplitude sand waves. Pockmarks and carbonate concretions then develop where the interstitial flows are confined and focused by subsurface ‘mounds’ in a shallow seismic reflector.  相似文献   

9.
Model tests were conducted on two 1:100 scaled models of a typical concrete gravity substructure at the University of Western Australia. The two models had dimensions 0.5 m length×0.5 m width with the first model being a sealed closed bottom box of height 0.1 m and the second model being an open bottom box with skirt length of 0.1 m. The mass of the air cushion model was changed to accommodate various water plug heights within the skirt chamber. Each model was floated at a constant draft of 0.1 m and tested in water depths ranging between 0.03 m (shallow) and 0.8 m (deep). The environment comprised regular waves with periods ranging between 0.6 and 3.5 s and amplitude of 0.08–0.02 m. To quantify the dynamic response the heave and pitch motions of each model were measured.A simplified theoretical solution based on long wavelength, linear wave assumptions was developed and applied to the geometries in consideration. Improvements to the theory are sought using the forcing function from a boundary element code, as well as utilizing added mass coefficients from free decay experiments. Results show that experimental trends compare reasonably well with analytical solution in particular for periods longer than the natural period. The results show that introducing air cushion support into a CGS increases the pitch response, while having little effect of the heave motion.  相似文献   

10.
《Ocean Engineering》1999,26(4):363-380
A sea water intake well of size 20 m diameter and 15.5 m height in a water depth of 9.8 m is proposed north of the Visakhapatnam Port for a project to extract magnesia from sea water. A 1:25 scale model of the intake well was tested in the wave basin of the Ocean Engineering Centre, Indian Institute of Technology, Madras to measure the wave forces and moments on the intake well and the variation of water levels inside and outside the well. Accordingly, an intake well model of 0.8 m diameter and 0.62 m height was fabricated and fixed over a false bottom in a wave basin. The well model was subjected to the action of both regular waves for two test conditions, intake well inlet closed during installation and intake well inlet open. The experimental results on wave forces and moments were compared with the results of the Linear Diffraction Theory. The water level inside the well was measured to determine the submergence of suction pipes of pumps and location of the inlet opening of the intake well. The wave crest elevation in front of the well was also measured in order to fix the deck level of the well so as to avoid water overspill onto the deck. The salient results of the present study are presented and discussed in this paper.  相似文献   

11.
The erosion depth and the sheet flow layer thickness represent two characteristic parameters for transport processes in oscillatory sheet flow. Formulas for these parameters under regular waves have been applied to obtain characteristic statistical values under random waves. The applicability of the method for practical purposes is illustrated by two examples using data typical for field conditions at water depths of 70 m (Ekofisk location in the North Sea) and 15 m, respectively. Two fictive storms based on the Dohmen-Janssen and Hanes [Dohmen-Janssen, C.M., Hanes, D.M., 2005. Sheet flow and suspended sediment due to wave groups in a large wave flume. Cont. Shelf Res. 25, 333–347] data from large scale wave flume tests have also been utilized to demonstrate how the return period of the sheet flow layer thickness observed in their experiments can be estimated.  相似文献   

12.
This study investigated the linear and nonlinear dynamic responses of three cylindrical shell structures subjected to underwater small charge explosions in a 4 m×4 m×4 m water tank. The dimensions of the cylindrical shell structures were 90 cm×30 cm×1 mm (length×diameter×thickness). Both ends of the cylindrical shell were mounted with thick plates to provide support and create an enclosed space. The three cylindrical shell structures were un-stiffened, internally stiffened and externally stiffened, respectively. The experiments involving the dynamic response of cylinders subjected to underwater explosion (UNDEX) were performed under different standoff distances, varying from 210 to 35 cm. A small quantity of explosives was used to generate the shock loading. The plastic deformation of the cylindrical shell was observed at a standoff distance of less than 50 cm. Other conditions were tested to examine cylinder linear response. Dynamic analyses were performed for the experimental model using FEM and compared with the test results. The accelerations and dynamic strains of cylindrical shells obtained from the experiment were compared with those obtained by FE analysis. Finally, problems related to small-scale UNDEX experiments performed in small water tanks were analyzed.  相似文献   

13.
Very large subaqueous sand dunes were discovered on the upper continental slope of the northern South China Sea. The dunes were observed along a single 40 km long transect southeast of 21.93°N, 117.53°E on the upper continental slope in water depths of 160 m to 600 m. The sand dunes are composed of fine to medium sand, with amplitudes exceeding 16 m and crest-to-crest wavelengths exceeding 350 m. The dunes' apparent formation mechanism is the world's largest observed internal solitary waves which generate from tidal forcing on the Luzon Ridge on the east side of the South China Sea, propagate west across the deep basin with amplitudes regularly exceeding 100 m, and dissipate extremely large amounts of energy via turbulent interaction with the continental slope, suspending and redistributing the bottom sediment. While subaqueous dunes are found in many locations throughout the world's oceans and coastal zones, these particular dunes appear to be unique for two principal reasons: their location on the upper continental slope (away from the influence of shallow-water tidal forcing, deep basin bottom currents and topographically-amplified canyon flows), and their distinctive formation mechanism (approximately 60 episodic, extremely energetic, large amplitude events each lunar cycle).  相似文献   

14.
We examine seasonal variations in the stable carbon and oxygen isotopic composition of individual shells of the pteropods Limacina inflata and Styliola subula, collected from Oceanic Flux Program sediment traps (at 500 m depth) near Bermuda in the western Sargasso Sea. Calcification depths estimated from L. inflata δ18O vary between 200 and 650 m in late winter and spring, and between 50 and 250 m in late summer and fall. S. subula shows similar seasonal variability with calcification depths between 250 and 600 m in late winter and spring and 50–400 m in late summer and fall. These results suggest that both species calcify across a greater range of depths than indicated by previous geochemical studies. Furthermore, the data indicate that these species change their calcification depth in conjunction with changes in thermal stratification of the water column. Pteropod shell δ13C values vary inversely with δ13CDIC but show a positive correlation with seawater [CO32−] and temperature after depth differences in δ13CDIC are accounted for. We hypothesize that either the influence of temperature on metabolic CO2 incorporation during shell growth and/or the influence of ambient [CO32−] on shell geochemistry can explain these relationships. Taken together, the individual shell δ18O and δ13C data suggest that shell calcification, and by inference the life cycle, of these pteropods is several months or less. Individual pteropod shell analyses have potential for contributing to our understanding of the environmental parameters that play a role in seasonal calcification depth shifts, as well as to our knowledge of past upper ocean thermal structure.  相似文献   

15.
Field data from a microtidal estuarine intertidal flat (Tamaki estuary, New Zealand) are used to analyse very small waves (height <10 cm; period 1.0–1.8 s) and associated sediment resuspension under light winds. Mean spectral period at the bed varied over the tidal cycle, driven by changes in surface-wave spectrum and depth-attenuation of orbital motions. Wave-orbital currents exceeded 30 cm/s, disturbing the fine-sand (100–200 μm) matrix of the seabed and resulting in the release of fine silt (particle size <20 μm) at concentrations >120 mg/L. Resuspension was initiated when ∼40% of the maximum zero-downcrossing orbital speeds in a burst exceeded the critical speed for initiation of sediment motion. Sediment concentrations were highest around low tide, when waves were smaller compared to high tide because of a reduced fetch but depth-attenuation of orbital motions was less because the water was shallower. Wave period exerted a control on sediment resuspension through the wave friction factor. There was a hysteresis in the wave Reynolds number such that it was greater on the ebbing tide compared to on the flooding tide: since it did not exceed 3 × 105 the bed was hydraulically smooth, and the wave friction factor therefore is inversely proportional to wave period. Hence, the tidal-cycle hysteresis in wave Reynolds number translated into a smaller wave friction factor on the ebbing tide, and accounting for this caused the ebb and flood sediment concentration data to collapse onto one curve when plotted against wave-induced skin friction. A simple model is presented to evaluate the relative contribution to sediment resuspension of waves associated with weak and strong winds. At the base of the flat (waves competent to resuspend sediment for 5% of the inundation time), waves associated with stronger, infrequent winds dominate resuspension. At the top of the flat (waves competent to resuspend sediment for 30% of the inundation time), waves associated with lighter, frequent winds dominate resuspension. Moderate winds – neither the strongest nor most frequently occurring – dominate resuspension integrated across the profile. The mass of sediment resuspended by waves is greatest towards the top of the flat: shoreward of this, resuspension is smaller because of wave dissipation; seaward of this, resuspension is smaller because of greater depth-attenuation of orbital motions. The location of maximum sediment mass resuspended by waves and the location of maximum duration of resuspension are not necessarily the same.  相似文献   

16.
Storm-induced coastal flooding is among the most destructive natural disasters, as seen recently in the Bay of Bengal, the Gulf of Mexico and the Philippines. This study presents a high resolution hindcast of the flooding associated with Xynthia, a mid-latitude storm that severely hit the central part of the Bay of Biscay in February 2010. A 2DH fully coupled modeling system is applied to the North-East Atlantic Ocean, with a resolution locally reaching a few meters along the coastline of the study area. Such a fine resolution was required to adequately represent the dikes and the barriers that usually prevent the area from flooding, but results in a > 1,700,000 element unstructured grid. The comparison with the available data reveals that waves and water levels are reproduced with normalized errors of the order of 10% and 5%, respectively. The extension of the flooding is also well reproduced, although with some underestimations along the coastline and overestimation in the inner part of large marshes. These limitations are explained by a lack of spatial resolution locally and the absence of several processes in the model such as infragravity waves and wave runup. The comparison between our baseline simulation and a simulation where the flooding is disabled by increasing the dike height reveals differences in maximum water levels locally reaching 1.0 m. This result is of key importance for coastal management strategies and also questions classical engineering approaches relying on one-way nesting.  相似文献   

17.
An artificial sand wave on the Dutch shoreface of the North Sea has been studied in conditions with relatively strong tidal currents in the range of 0.5 to 1 m/s and sediments in the medium sand size range of 0.2 to 0.5 mm. The sand wave is perpendicular to the tidal current and has a maximum height and length of the order of 5 m and 1 km, respectively. The sand wave is dynamically active and shows migration rates of the order of a few metres per year. A numerical morphodynamic model (DELFT3D model) has been used to simulate the morphological behaviour of the sand wave in the North Sea. This model approach is based on the numerical solution of the three-dimensional shallow water equations in combination with a surface wave propagation model (wind waves) and the advection–diffusion equation for the sediment particles with online bed updating after each time step. The model results show that the sand wave grows in the case of dominant bed-load transport (weak tidal currents; relatively coarse sediment; small roughness height; low waves) and that the sand wave decays in the case of dominant suspended transport (strong currents, relatively fine sediment, large roughness height; storm waves).  相似文献   

18.
Long-term (⩽1-year) records obtained by seabed observatories (BOBO) and repeated (24-h) CTD casts show the presence of a highly energetic environment in and around two cold-water carbonate-mound provinces, on the Southwest and Southeast Rockall Trough (SW and SE RT) margin. Carbonate mounds, covered with a thriving coral cover, are embedded mainly in the Eastern North Atlantic Water (ENAW) and are observed in a confined bathymetric zone between 600 and 1000 m water depth. Cold-water corals seem to be restricted in their growth by temperature and food availability. The presence of living corals on top of the carbonate mounds appears linked to the presence of internal waves and tidal currents in the water column, and consequently carbonate mound structures are shaped by the local hydrodynamic regime. Mound clusters have an elongated shape perpendicular to the regional contours and corresponding to the direction of the highest current speeds. On the SW RT margin temperature, salinity and current speed reflect a diurnal tidal pattern, causing maximum temperature variations at 900 m depth of more than 3 °C. Current speeds up to 45 cm s−1 occur, and a residual current of 10 cm s−1 is directed along the slope to the southwest. At the SE RT margin the temperature of the bottom water fluctuates more than 1 °C with a semi-diurnal tidal cyclicity. Amplitudes of average and peak current speeds here are comparable with those measured on the southwest margin, but the residual current in this area is directed to the northeast. Tidal currents and internal waves at both margins force the formation of intermediate and bottom nepheloid layers and bring fresh food particles with increased velocity to the mounds. The distribution of corals in both mound areas is considered directly related to the presence of enhanced turbidity. An increase in temperature can be directly related to an increase in the amount of particles in the water column. Current velocity increases when a transition occurs from cold to warm waters. High current velocities prevent local sedimentation but provide sufficient food particles to the corals, so that the corals thrive at the mound summits.  相似文献   

19.
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20.
The Otzum ebb-tidal delta, located between Langeoog and Spiekeroog islands along the East Frisian barrier-island coast, southern North Sea, was investigated with respect to its morphological evolution, sediment distribution patterns and internal sedimentary structures. Bathymetric charts reveal that, over the last 50 years, the size of the Otzum ebb-tidal delta has slightly shrunk, while sediment has accreted on the ebb-delta lobe to the east of the main inlet channel (west of Spiekeroog). Swash bars superimposed on the eastern ebb-tidal shoal (Robben Plate) have migrated south or south-eastwards, i.e. towards the inlet throat. The main ebb-delta body is composed of fine quartz sand, whereas the superimposed swash bars and the inlet channel bed consist of medium-grained quartz sand containing high proportions of coarser bioclastic material. Internal sedimentary structures in short box-cores (up to 30 cm long) are dominated by flood-oriented cross-beds. Longer vibro-cores (up to 1.5 m long) show that, at depth, the sediment is dominated by storm-generated parallel (upper plane bed) laminations with intercalated shell layers and dune cross-bedding. The cross-bedded sands in both box-cores and vibro-cores from the ebb-delta shoal predominantly dip towards the south or southeast, indicating transport towards the inlet throat by the flood current. The observations demonstrate that, contrary to previous contentions, the sediments of the highly mobile swash bars do not bypass the inlet but are instead being continually recirculated by the combined action of tidal currents and waves. In this model, the cycle begins with both fine and medium sands, including shell hash, being transported seawards in the main ebb channel until they reach the shallow ebb-delta front. From here, the sediment is pushed onto the eastern ebb-delta shoal by the flood current assisted by waves, becoming strongly size-sorted in the process. The medium sands together with the shell hash are formed into swash bars which migrate along arcuate paths over a base of fine sand back to the main ebb channel located south of the ebb delta. By the same token, the fine sand between the swash bars is transported south-eastwards by the flood current in the form of small dunes until it cascades into the large flood channel located to the west of Spiekeroog. From here, the fine sand is fed back into the main ebb channel, thus completing the cycle. No evidence was found on the ebb delta for alongshore sediment bypassing.  相似文献   

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