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1.
One-Line shoreline evolution models have been used as a tool to understand and forecast long-term coastal evolution. However, in some coastal environments, where the influence of the wind is important, the limitations of existing models preclude its direct application to characterize its effect on sediment transport processes. To fill this knowledge gap, we have developed a shoreline evolution model that includes the effect of wind on longshore sediment transport and accounts for beach-dune sedimentary exchange due to aeolian transport. The model produces quantitative estimates of sediment transport and exchanges rates alongshore, easing the assessment of the role of different forcing agents in coastline evolution. The model was applied to the Ebro north hemidelta coast. The results are used to discuss the relative importance of the wind interaction in the evolution of different coastline stretches. Aeolian sand transport at Riumar Beach could cause coastal erosion. At the rectilinear coast, aeolian exchange does not seem to influence the shoreline evolution but the wind-current interaction does. The model provides valuable data when considering the approach to be taken regarding conservation measures. Alongshore aeolian sediment transport can be useful when designing and placing aeolian sediment traps. Conservation of the Ebro north hemidelta coast needs to focus on increasing the river sediment supply. The application herein presented can be regarded as a first step in understanding wave and wind coupling effects in shoreline evolution.  相似文献   

2.
基于Boussinesq方程耦合泥沙运动和地形演变模型,建立海啸作用下泥沙运动数学模型。地形演变模型采用WENO差分格式,并将WENO差分格式与Lax-Wendroff格式和FTBS格式进行对比分析。运用Synolakis、Kobayashi和Young的实验数据分别对水动力模块和地形演变模块进行验证,数值模拟结果与实验数据吻合良好,模型能够很好地模拟海啸波的传播、破碎、上爬、回落过程以及岸滩的冲淤变化过程,该数学模型能够运用到海啸作用下的岸滩演变研究和预测中。  相似文献   

3.
Ralf Hesse   《Quaternary Research》2009,71(3):426-436
Aeolian dunes are widely used to reconstruct paleoenvironmental conditions. However, terminal dune fields (ergs) in the coastal desert of southern Peru – where information regarding Quaternary paleoenvironmental conditions is very limited – have until now not been used for paleoenvironmental reconstructions and the time depth of their accumulation is unknown. Here, different estimates are derived to constrain the time depth recorded in the Dunas Pampa Blanca, a terminal dune field in coastal southern Peru. Dune field age is calculated using the volume of the Dunas Pampa Blanca and (i) recent aeolian transport rate in migrating transverse dunes feeding the Dunas Pampa Blanca (derived from digital processing of sequential Landsat and Quickbird images) and (ii) limitations posed by recent fluvial sediment supply to the source of aeolian transport. The resulting maximum age estimate of 70 ± 8 ka (from aeolian transport) compares with a minimum age estimate of 4–75 ka (from sediment supply). However, a minimum age estimate of 110–450 ka is deduced from the tectonic and topographic evolution of the region. This discrepancy contradicts the hypothesis of late Quaternary stability in the Peruvian coastal desert and indicates that recent conditions of aeolian sediment supply and transport are not representative for the late Quaternary.  相似文献   

4.
The Holocene climate evolution in Northern Africa is studied in a 9000-yr-long transient simulation with a coupled atmosphere–ocean–vegetation model forced by changes in insolation and atmospheric greenhouse gas concentrations. The model simulates in the monsoonal domains a significant decrease in precipitation under influence of the orbitally forced reduction in summer insolation. In the Western Sahara region, the simulated mid-Holocene transition from humid to arid conditions (the termination of the African Humid Period) is highly non-linear with the occurrence of centennial-scale climate fluctuations due to the biogeophysical feedback between precipitation and vegetation cover. This result is in agreement with proxy data from the Western Sahara region. The other monsoonal regions experience a more gradual climate evolution that linearly follows the insolation forcing, which appears in disagreement with available lake level records.  相似文献   

5.
This study evaluates the impacts resulting from the construction of two large-scale detached breakwater systems on the Nile delta coast of Egypt at Baltim and Ras El Bar beaches (~18.3 km shoreline length). The two protective systems were installed in a water depth of between 3 and 4 m and consist of 17 units in total (each ~250 m long). A comprehensive monitoring program spanning the years 1990 to 2002 was implemented and included beach-nearshore profiles, grain size distribution of seabed sand and information related to the background coastal processes. Evaluation of these systems concentrates on the physical impacts on coastal morphodynamics, mitigation and their design implications. The beach and nearshore sedimentation (erosion/accretion patterns) and grain texture of seabed sediment in the study areas have been substantially disrupted due to the interruption of longshore transport by the shore-parallel detached breakwaters. Rate of shoreline and seabed changes as well as alongshore sediment volume have been substantially affected, resulting in accretion in the breakwater landward sides (tombolo or salient) followed by downdrift erosion. The preconstruction beach erosion at Baltim (–5 m/year) and at Ras El Bar (–6 m/year) has been replaced, respectively, by the formation of sand tombolo (35 m/year) and salient (9 m/year). On the other hand, beach erosion has been substantially increased in the downdrift sides of these protective systems, being –20 m/year at Baltim and –9 m/year at Ras El Bar. Further seaward, the two protective systems at Baltim and Ras El Bar have accumulated seabed sand at maximum rates of 30 and 20 cm/year and associated with downdrift erosion of –45 and –20 cm/year, respectively. Strong gyres and eddies formed in the breakwater gabs have drastically affected swimmers and subsequently caused a significant number of drownings each summer, averaging 35 and 67 victims/year at Baltim and Ras El Bar beaches, respectively. This study provides baseline information needed to help implement mitigation measures for these breakwater systems.  相似文献   

6.
Vulnerability assessment of a retreating coast in SW Spain   总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2  
The present study assesses coastal vulnerability to erosion processes along a 23-km-long coastal sector that presents different morphological features and grades of human occupation. Seven photogrammetric flights, at different scales, were used for reconstructing the coastal evolution from 1956 to 2001. Several sources were compiled to assess human activities and land uses in the coastal zones that were mapped and divided into four different types. As a further step, coastal vulnerability to erosion was assessed combining the potential coastal retreat with land-use type. More than one third of the studied coast presents a very high–medium risk level and many human structures and activities at Sanlúcar village and La Ballena beach will be threatened by erosional processes in the near future.  相似文献   

7.
This study concerns Tarbela dam reservoir which is a major resource of Pakistan in terms of electricity generation and irrigation supplies. Rapid filling of reservoir due to sediment transported and deposited by Indus River is described and analysed in this article. Causes of sediment deposition and their impact on dam’s function and life are studied. The main characteristic parameters of the site are presented. The morphological evolution of the reservoir bed induced by dam construction, between the year 1974 when the River bed was in its original state before dam construction, and the situation of the river bed after the deposition of the sediment in the year 2006, is examined. A numerical model developed in this study (Khawaja and Sanchez in Tarbela dam: a numerical model for sediment management in the reservoir; coastal and maritime mediterranean conference, 1st edn, Hammamet, pp 111–114, 2009) allows obtaining the above-stated provisional evolution of the reservoir over the coming years. Finally, five potential remedial solutions are thoroughly discussed.  相似文献   

8.
The morphological evolution of shallows seabed has undergone great changes over the past 95 years. These changes have not only led to the decreases of water volume but also to the spatial variability of sediments. However, the distribution and the movement of marine sediments from underwater beaches are very complex due to the combination of several factors such as hydrodynamic factors (e.g., tidal currents ±?34 cm, swells and currents driven by the prevailing northeast wind), and entropic factors (e.g., soil occupation and protective installation of structures as breakwater, groynes, retaining wall). This situation can disrupt the sedimentary regime in the Boumerdes area. In order to better understand the hydrodynamic processes, the recognition of sedimentary processes, the modalities, and erosion mechanisms of this zone are necessary. Thus, the study of long-term underwater morphological evolution by comparing between the bathymetric surveys of different years, between 1922 and 2017, is required to study the feasibility of coastal engineering projects. The seabed bathymetric evolution of this coastal fringe from erosion point of view was appreciated. It is based on a geographic information system (GIS), which allows to carry out a digital depth model interpolated by kriging method.  相似文献   

9.
The vertical distribution of terrestrial and phytoplankton biomarker compounds in a sediment core from the coastal estuarine zone of the Guadiana river (southwest border between Portugal and Spain) was determined by gas chromatography–mass spectrometry. Significant downcore fluctuations were observed in the patterns of the most abundant alkyl series (n-alkanes and n-fatty acids), as well as in several biomarker ratios. In addition, a specific contribution from conifers is reflected in the presence of a resin acid series that first appears 6500 years BP. The observed changes in the lipid assemblage within the Holocene suggest recent variations in the planktonic and terrigenous supply, which are attributed mainly to the evolution of the circulation pattern in the estuary and to the alteration of vegetation cover within the Guadiana drainage basin. Our data suggest that on a 103–104 year time-scale, little or no diagenetic change occurred with respect to the compounds in question.  相似文献   

10.
三峡水库蓄水运用后,下游河道来水来沙条件均会发生改变,从而影响河道河势演变过程(包括垂向冲淤变化以及横向调整过程)。为解决长河道因岸滩崩塌引起的河势演变模拟问题,依据水位、流量及输沙量守恒和河床及河岸变形连续等条件,提出虚拟断面连接法构建了考虑岸滩崩塌的二、三维嵌套河势研究数值模型。采用1996年10月~1998年10月沙市至新厂河段实测资料对模型进行了验证,模拟结果与实测结果吻合较好,从而为定量研究水沙条件变化对荆江河道横向调整过程的影响提供了技术支撑。  相似文献   

11.
Light availability is critically important for primary productivity in coastal systems, yet current research approaches may not be adequate in shallow coastal lagoons. Light attenuation in these systems is typically dominated by suspended sediment, while light attenuation in deeper estuaries is often dominated by phytoplankton. This difference in controls on light attenuation suggests that physical processes may exert a greater influence on light availability in coastal lagoons than in deeper estuaries. Light availability in Hog Island Bay, a shallow coastal lagoon on the eastern shore of Virginia, was determined for a summer and late fall time period with different wind conditions. We combined field measurements and a process-based modeling approach that predicts sediment suspension and light availability from waves and currents to examine both the variability and drivers of light attenuation. Total suspended solids was the only significant predictor of light attenuation in Hog Island Bay. Waves and currents in Hog Island Bay responded strongly to wind forcing, with bottom stresses from wind driven waves dominant for 60% of the modeled area for the late fall period and 24% of the modeled area for the summer period. Higher wind speeds in late fall than in summer caused greater sediment suspension (41 and 3 mg l−1 average, respectively) and lower average (spatial and temporal) downwelling light availability (32% and 55%, respectively). Because of the episodic nature of wind events and the spatially variable nature of sediment suspension, conventional methods of examining light availability, such as fair-weather monitoring or single in situ recorders, do not adequately represent light conditions for benthic plants.  相似文献   

12.
Tidal Changes and Coastal Hazards: Past,Present and Future   总被引：1，自引：1，他引：0  
Hinton  A. C. 《Natural Hazards》2000,21(2-3):173-184
A review is presented of the nature of tidal changes and their importance in the context of coastal hazards. This is done in order to illustrate the way in which tides do and may impact on the coast as a hazard and highlight the need for research to be carried out in this context. Three main aspects of tides are significant in this respect – these are: (1) tidal heights, including tidal range and the asymmetry or otherwise of the flood/ebb cycle; (2) tidal currents, the speed and direction of which affect sediment movement, sources and sinks; and (3) tidal mixing of fresh water with water of varying levels of salinity and differing temperatures. A variety of tools, from geological data to modelling, and tide gauges to satellites, may be used to assess tidal changes. Tides form the basis on which all other coastal processes operate and are therefore important with regard to the physical, chemical and biological hazards in the coastal zone. There is an urgent need to study tidal changes – both their nature and causes – in order to ensure successful coastal management.  相似文献   

13.
This study investigates impacts of a wave farm on waves, currents and coastal morphology adjacent to the wave farm, which is located in the Southwest of England (the Wave Hub). In this study, we focus on the interaction between waves and tides due to the presence of the wave farm and its effects on wave radiation stresses, bottom shear stresses and consequently on the sediment transport and the coast adjacent to the wave farm, using an integrated numerical modelling system. The modelling system consists of the near-shore wave model SWAN, the ocean circulation model ROMS and a sediment transport model for morphological evolution. The results show that tidal elevation and tidal currents can have a significant effect on waves and that tidal forcing and waves have a significant effect on bottom shear stresses. Waves can impact on the processes related to the bottom boundary layer and mixing intensity in the water column. The wave farm has an impact on the gradients of radiation shear stresses and bottom shear stresses that modify current speeds and wave heights, which in turn impact on the near-shore sediment transport and the resulting morphological changes. Bed load transport rates show a decrease when the wave farm is present, even during storm conditions. The results highlight the importance of the interactions between waves and tides when modelling coastal morphology with presence of wave energy devices.  相似文献   

14.
East-northeastern Brazil has a wave-dominated, micro- to meso-tidal coast, lying entirely within the southern Atlantic trade wind belt. Integration of geologic mapping, radiocarbon dating and vibracoring data shows that the Quaternary coastal evolution of this area was controlled by three major factors: (1) sea-level history; (2) trade winds; and (3) climate change.

Sea-level history. Along the east-northeastern coast of Brazil, relative sea level has fallen approximately 5 m during the last 5000 y. Correlation of this sea-level history with the evolution of beach-ridge, lagoonal and coastal plain deposits shows that: (1) sea-level rise favours the formation of barrier island—lagoonal systems and the construction of intralagoonal deltas; (2) sea-level lowering is not conductive to barrier island formation. Rather, lagoons and bays become emergent and beach-ridge plains rapidly prograde.

Trade winds. Sediment dispersal systems along the coastal zone of east-northeastern Brazil have been highly persistent since Pleistocene time, as deduced from beach-ridge orientation. This persistence results from the fact that sediment dispersal in wave-dominated settings is ultimately controlled by atmospheric circulation which, for the east-northeastern coast of Brazil is associated with the South Atlantic high-pressure cell. The remarkable stability of this cell through time, has allowed the accumulation of extensive beach-ridge plains at the longshore drift sinks located along the coast.

Climate change. Effects of Quaternary climate changes on coastal sedimentation are twofold. Climate changes may affect rainfall patterns, thus exerting an important control on coastal dune development. Along the coast of northeastern Brazil, active coastal dunes are only present in those areas in which at least four consecutive dry months occur during the year. Mapping of these areas has shown that dune development during the Holocene has been episodic, these episodes being probably controlled by variations in rainfall patterns associated with climate changes. Secondly, despite its overall stability, the position of the high-pressure cell has experienced small shifts in position during the Holocene in response to climate changes. Changes in wind direction associated with these shifts have induced modifications in the coastal dispersion system, which are recorded in the strandplains as small truncations in the beach-ridge alignments.

These results have important implications in understanding accumulation of ancient sandstone shoreline sequences.  相似文献   


15.
A multidisciplinary approach was used to analyse the role of pioneer trees (Populus nigra) on bar formation in the modern fluvial system of the River Loire (France). Data were collected on seven plots located on a secondary channel, chosen for their vegetation cover and their sedimentary context. Physical features of vegetation, topographical evolution, sediment grain size and flow velocity were investigated during and after floods between 2001 and 2003. Woody vegetation responds morphologically to fast‐flowing waters and sediment deposition. These adaptations influence the role played by trees on local sedimentary processes. Some morphological types of trees exert a strong influence during flood events by deflecting, reducing or increasing the flow energy. As a consequence, the evolution of bedforms, distribution of sediment grain size and slopes are controlled by the flood type, the morphological context (i.e. high‐ or low‐energy zones), the morphology of the vegetated bar and the characteristics of vegetation. Conceptual models are proposed to account for local processes and evolution of tree groves. The first model, which describes the behaviour of groves during a single flood, underlines the sediment deposition downstream of the trees and the trapping of bedload sediments. During the falling stage of the flood, the reorientation of current streams, constrained by both local bed topography and woody vegetation, induces transverse sediment fluxes. For these water levels, the control exerted by trees on small‐scale sedimentary processes becomes significant. The second model shows the evolution of vegetation bands over several flood events. In particular, it describes the influence of vegetation on the fixing and reworking of bedload sediments during the falling limb of the hydrograph. The coalescence of vegetation‐induced bedforms and the resulting morphological changes increase the deflection power of the vegetated bar, inducing the deposition of finer sediments.  相似文献   

16.
Changing content of detrital input in laminated sediments traced by XRF scanning and microfacies analyses reflect prominent variations in sedimentation processes in the Aral Sea. A high-resolution record of titanium from a core retrieved in the northwestern Large Aral Sea allows a continuous reconstruction of wind strength and frequency in western Central Asia for the past 1500 yr. During AD 450–700, AD 1210–1265, AD 1350–1750 and AD 1800–1975, detrital inputs (bearing titanium) are high, documenting an enhanced early spring atmospheric circulation associated with an increase in intensity of the Siberian High pressure system over Central Asia. In contrast, lower titanium content during AD 1750–1800 and AD 1980–1985 reflects a diminished influence of the Siberian High during early spring with a reduced atmospheric circulation. A moderate circulation characterizes the time period AD 700–1150. Unprecedented weakened atmospheric circulation over western Central Asia are inferred during ca. AD 1180–1210 and AD 1265–1310 with a considerable decrease in dust storm frequency, sedimentation rates, lamination thickness and detrital inputs (screened at 40-μm resolution). Our results are concurrent with changes in the intensity of the Siberian High during the past 1400 yr as reported in the GISP2 Ice Core from Greenland.  相似文献   

17.
Estuary evolution is investigated using the hydrodynamic and sediment transport model, Delft3D, to study the response of a dammed tidal basin to restored tidal processes. The development of decadal (10-year) morphological simulations of the restored estuary required simplifying several data inputs and implementing a time-scale acceleration technique. An innovative river sediment discharge schematization was developed that connected sediment discharge to morphological change in the estuary. Mud erodibility parameters were determined from laboratory analysis of sediment cores from the modern lakebed and statistical refinement with a Bayes network of the probability of occurrence. The changing estuary morphology appears to have a dominant impact on the physical habitat (substrate, inundation frequency, mean salinity, and salinity range). The numerical model provides a tool to compare the functions of the historical estuary and possible future alternatives for a restored estuary. Sensitivity of the morphological model to sediment types and erodibility parameters was also examined. A conceptual model covering morphology and indicators of physical habitat for three phases of estuary evolution during restoration is presented that could be applied to estuarine systems that are severely out of equilibrium.  相似文献   

18.
In order to study the first steps of incorporation of lipids in recent organic-rich sediments into free and bound fractions, we have selected the Santa Barbara Basin, off California. This basin with a maximum of 590 m water depth is characterized by high phytoplankton production in surface waters and a low oxygen content in bottom waters. Sediments show the following features: high sedimentation rate ≈ 4 mm/yr, no bioturbation, and development of a bacterial mat community at the surface with predominance of sulphur-oxidizing bacteria trapping particles, thus preventing re-distribution of sediment, which permit a unique observations of organic sedimentation on a new few years basis.A sediment core has been divided into 2 cm thick slices corresponding to a time resolution of ≈5 years, from 1835 up to 1987. Samples have been analyzed using a multi-parameter approach, such as for plankton species identification, carbon stable isotope ratios and, as reported here, for lipid organic tracers. Organic tracers have been analyzed in the sterol and fatty series for both free and bound compounds by gas chromatography and gas chromatography/mass spectrometry.The incorporation processes of sterols with depth appear different for free and bound compounds. Total free sterol concentrations show high values in surface sediments (≈ 100 μg/g dry sediment), rapidly decrease up to ≈ 10 cm depth and remain at a constant value of 30–40 μg/g. Total bound sterol concentrations show low values in surface sediment (13.6 μg/g), and vary irregularly with depth up to a value of 55 μg/g at 7.3 m, and then remain constant at 25–26 μg/g.Profiles of evolution with depth of free C27, C28 sterols show a regular decrease, whereas C29 sterols show an irregular decrease with anomalies at 7.3 cm (approximately age: 1977–1978) and at 14.1 cm (1962–1964). Profiles of bound compounds are rather different, very regular for C28 sterols, irregular with oscillations for C27 and C29 sterols at 7.3, 12.2 and 18.0 cm (1954–1956), suggesting a different mode of incorporation and probably different inputs for C27, C29 and C28 sterols.The study of the kinetics of degradation of sterols between surface (1987) and 10.5 cm (1968–1972) shows that C27 compounds are degraded at a slight higher rate (0.53 μg/μg of initial C27 concentration/ year) than are C28 and C29 compounds (0.047 μg/μg of initial concentration/year). An intermediate value is found for brassicasterol: 0.049 μg/μg/year.  相似文献   

19.
渤海湾曹妃甸老龙沟海区属于典型的离岸沙坝-潟湖海岸体系,口门处发育有拦门沙。采用实测资料分析和二维波流泥沙数学模型计算研究了拦门沙成因及其开挖后的回淤情况。研究表明,涨落潮流路不一致、落潮流扩散是老龙沟拦门沙形成的主要原因。针对该海区波浪、潮流、泥沙及海床演变特点,进行了2006年、2007年大小潮潮流泥沙的验证及2008年8~12月试挖槽回淤的验证,在此基础上,预测了拦门沙航道正常情况下的泥沙回淤和大风天骤淤。试挖槽监测资料分析及数学模型计算表明,风浪掀沙是影响老龙沟拦门沙回淤的重要因素。  相似文献   

20.
Aerial photographs taken in the 1963 and 2001 and bathymetric charts, in conjunction with coastal processes are analyzed to assess changes in rate of shoreline position, seabed level, and seabed grain sizes along the Tabarka–Berkoukech beach at the north-western Tunisian coastline. The littoral cell of this beach, 12-km-long, is bounded by pronounced embayments and rocky headlands separated by sandy stretches. Although not yet very much undeveloped, this littoral is still experienced degradation and modification, especially along its shoreline, with significant coastal erosion at some places. Results obtained from analysis of shoreline position indicate that El Morjene Beach is experienced a landward retreat of more than −62 m, at a maximum rate of −1.64 m/year, whereas the El corniche beach is advanced about 16–144 m, at an average rate of 0.42 m–3.78 m/year. This beach accretion has been formed on the updrift side of the Tabarka port constructed between 1966 and 1970. Comparison of bottom contours deduced from bathymetric charts surveyed in 1881 and 1996 off the coastline between Tabarka Port and El Morjene Beach identifies erosional areas (sediment source) and accretionary zones (sediment sink). Erosion (0.87–4.35 cm/year) occurs between El kebir River Mouth and El Morjene beach, whereas accretion exists in the zone down wind of the port ranges between 0.87 and 5.21 cm/year. Morphological analyses of the shoreline and the seabed of the study nearshore area indicate that shoreline retreat corresponds to areas of seabed scour (sediment source) while shoreline accretion is associated with areas of seabed deposition (sediment sink). Furthermore, simulation of wave propagation using STWAVE model combined with grain size distributions of the seabed shows that fine sands are much dominated in depositional areas with low wave energy, whereas coarser sands in erosive zones with high wave energy. The results obtained suggest that the change of seabed morphology, wave height pattern and grain size sediment have a great influence on the modification of shoreline morphology and dynamics.  相似文献   

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