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1.
《海洋技术学报》2024,(1)
为了分析台风影响下浙江沿海风和浪的演变特点，利用浙江省海洋浮标站监测数据和欧洲中期天气预报中心第五代全球气候大气再分析数据（European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts Reanalysis v5，ERA5），选取2010年以来严重影响浙江的7次台风个例，对台风作用下浙江沿海海面风和浪的演变特点进行分析。结果表明：在台风影响过程中，海浪波型多数呈现混合浪-风浪-混合浪的演变规律；涌浪波型的出现与台风强度及其与浮标站的距离和方位有关，也与海洋潮汐现象紧密相关。台风影响期间，浙江沿海浪高的变化受风速和风向共同作用影响。在风向不变的情况下，持续风速增大对浪高的增大有明显作用；风向的变化也会对浪高变化产生影响，向岸风和离岸风的转变会造成浪高出现剧烈变化。ERA5 再分析资料有效波高在台风浪较大时会呈现偏小的趋势，分析订正后的ERA5 有效波高发现，台风浪有效波高大值区与台风中心位置相关。研究结果可为严重影响浙江沿海的台风浪预报服务提供参考。 相似文献
2.
Ocean wave characteristics around New Zealand 总被引：1，自引：1，他引：0
Nearly 17 years wave records from deep water and shore‐based stations are used to describe the ocean wave characteristics around New Zealand. The wave environment is dominated by west and southwest swell and storm waves generated in the temperate latitude belt of westerly winds. As a result, the west and south coasts are exposed, high energy shores, the east coast is a high energy lee shore, and the northern coast from North Cape to East Cape is a low energy lee shore sheltered from these winds and waves. South of New Zealand, wave energies are extremely high; the prevailing deep water wave is 3.5–4.5 m high and has a 10–12 s period, with a slight increase in wave heights in winter. The west coast wave environment is mixed, and consists of locally generated westerly and southerly storm waves, and swell waves generated to the south. The prevailing wave is t.0–3.0 m and 6–8 s period. There are no strong seasonal rhythms, only shorter period cycles of wave height (5 day) associated with similar quasi‐rhythmic cycles in the weather. The east coast also has a mixed wave climate with southerly swells, originating in the westerlies south of New Zealand, and locally generated southerly and northerly storm waves. The prevailing wave is 0.5–2.0 m and 7–11 s period. A short period rhythmic cycle, similar to that on the west coast, is superimposed on a weak seasonal cycle. The seasonal, cycle results from an increase in the frequency of local northerly waves in summer. The prevailing wave on the north coast is a northeasterly, 0.5–1.5 m high and 5–7 s period. Subtropical disturbances and southward‐moving depressions generate a mixed wave environment and a possible seasonally reflecting a winter increase in. storminess. 相似文献
3.
利用东矶列岛海域一年实测波浪资料,统计分析波要素特征,以台风“利奇马”为例,分析台风浪演变过程。结果表明：研究海域年平均有效波高0.88 m,年平均周期4.3 s,年最大波高8.67 m出现在夏季台风“利奇马”影响时。研究海域以轻浪为主,其次是小浪和中浪;常浪向为ESE,次常浪向为E和SE;强浪向为SSE,次强浪向为SE。波浪平均持续时间和波高之间符合指数衰减关系。台风“利奇马”影响期间,最大谱峰56.20 m2/Hz,台风浪谱型以双峰谱为主,台风浪类型经历了涌浪—混合浪—风浪—混合浪—涌浪这一演变过程。 相似文献
4.
The interaction of waves and currents is studied by the dynamical coupling of a third generation wave model and a two-dimensional storm surge model. The coupling process of the two models is implemented synchronously. To estimate the effects of waves on the generation of storm surges, the theory of Janssen is used. The effects of the wave radiation stress on surge levels and the effects of storm-induced currents on waves are also investigated.The coupled wave and storm surge models have been tested by hindcasting two storm events in the northern South China Sea. The use of the Simth and Banke stress relation underestimates the surges by 10%. The inclusion of the radiation stress improves the accuracy of the computed results slightly by 2%. The introduction of a wave-dependent surface drag gives a significant improvement. The storm-induced currents clearly affect the wave characteristics at the peak stage. However, as far as the prediction of wave height is concerned, it is better not to consider the wave radiation stress in the storm surge model unless this is accompanied by a wave-dependent surface drag. 相似文献
5.
Sea ice can attenuate wave energy significantly when waves propagate through ice covers.In this study,a third-generation wave model called simulating wave nearshore(SWAN)was advanced to include damping of wave energy due to friction in the boundary layer below the ice.With the addition of an eddy viscosity wave-ice model,the resulting new SWAN model was applied to simulate wave height in the Bohai Sea during the freezing winter.Its performance was validated with available buoy data near the ice edge,and the new model showed an improvement in accuracy because it considered the ice effect on waves.We then performed a wave hindcast for the Bohai Sea during a freezing period in the winter of 2016 that had the severest ice conditions in recent years and found that the mean significant wave height changed by approximately 16.52%.In the Liaodong Bay,where sea ice concentration is highest,the change reached 32.57%,compared with the most recent SWAN model version.The average influence of sea ice on wave height simulation was also evaluated over a five-year(2013-2017)hindcast during January and February.We found that the wave height decrease was more significant in storm conditions even the eddy viscosity wave-ice model itself showed no advantage on damping stronger waves. 相似文献
6.
《中国海洋工程》2015,(4)
An integrally coupled wave-tide-surge model was developed and then applied to the simulation of the wave-typhoon surge for the typhoon Isewan(typhoon Vera(5915)), which is the strongest typhoon that has struck Japan and caused incalculable damage. An integrally coupled tide-surge-wave model using identical and homogeneous meshes in an unstructured grid system was used to correctly resolve the physics of wave-circulation interaction in both models. All model components were validated independently. The storm surge and wave properties such as the surge height, the significant wave height, wave period and direction were reproduced reasonably under the meteorological forcing, which was reprocessed to be close to the observations. The resulting modeling system can be used extensively for the prediction of the storm surge and waves and the usual barotropic forecast. 相似文献
7.
This paper deals with the long-term modelling of high sea waves. The solution is given for the return period of sea storms during which an arbitrary chosen number of waves, with crest-to-trough heights exceeding a fixed threshold, occur. This return period is derived starting from the Equivalent Triangular Storm (ETS) model, which associates a triangle to each actual storm and thus represents a significant wave height time series at a fixed location by means of a sequence of triangular storms. The short-term statistics is then applied to investigate the occurrence of large crest-to-trough wave heights during a given storm. Finally, by combining the statistical distribution of significant wave heights, the ETS model and the short-term wave statistics, the solution is given for the return periods RN and RN of a sea storm in which N or at least N waves higher than a fixed threshold occur. The values of RN are then calculated, starting from data of two buoys moored in the Pacific Ocean and in the Mediterranean Sea. 相似文献
8.
中国近海2011年灾害性海浪分析及2012年预测 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
总结分析了2011年中国近海有效波高为4 m以上的灾害性海浪过程及灾情概况,并对本年度的预测结果进行了检验评估。依据1968—2011年有效波高≧4 m的灾害性海浪的统计资料,结合2012年副热带高压及热带风暴的分析预测资料,预测了2012年中国近海灾害性海浪过程的出现次数,以及分海区的出现天数,预测结果可为今年的海洋防灾减灾提供技术支持。 相似文献
9.
M. A. Srokosz 《Ocean Engineering》1988,15(4)
In this note the effect of changes in sea-state, as measured by the significant wave heigh Hs, on the joint distribution of individual wave height and period are considered. Wave data, obtained from a Waverider buoy during the growth phase of a storm, are used in the analysis. It is found that, by correctly scaling the individual heights and periods, the form of the joint distribution does not depend on Hs, but is dependent on the bandwidth of the spectrum. The results obtained also give some indication of the period of individual, high zero-upcrossing waves. 相似文献
11.
The relationship between significant wave height and period, the variability of significant wave period, the spectral peak enhancement factor, and the directional spreading parameter of large deepwater waves around the Korean Peninsula have been investigated using various sources of wave measurement and hindcasting data. For very large waves comparable to design waves, it is recommended to use the average value of the empirical formulas proposed by Shore Protection Manual in 1977 and by Goda in 2003 for the relationship between significant wave height and period. The standard deviation of significant wave periods non-dimensionalized with respect to the mean value for a certain significant wave height varies between 0.04 and 0.21 with a typical value of 0.1 depending upon different regions and different ranges of significant wave heights. The probability density function of the peak enhancement factor is expressed as a lognormal distribution, with its mean value of 2.14, which is somewhat smaller than the value in the North Sea. For relatively large waves, the probability density function of the directional spreading parameter at peak frequency is also expressed as a lognormal distribution. 相似文献
12.
Wave and wind characteristics based on the cyclones, in the vicinity of the Nagapattinam coastline (east coast of India) were estimated. In all, 11 cyclones have crossed near the study region during 1960–1996. For the four severe cyclones, the isobaric charts were collected at three hourly intervals from the India Meteorological Department. The storm variables such as central pressure, radius of maximum wind, speed of forward motion and direction of storm movement were extracted and the method based on standard Hydromet pressure profile, were used for the hindcast of storm wind fields. For all the cyclones the maximum significant wave height within the storm and its associated spectral peak period was estimated using the Young’s model considering the moving wind field and the results are compared with the hurricane wave prediction techniques provided in the shore protection manual published by the US Army Corps of Engineers in 1984. The study shows that the estimated wind speed and the data reported by ships were comparable. Empirical expressions relating wind speed, wave height and wave period to storm parameters were derived. The design wave height for different return periods was obtained by fitting a two-parameter Weibull distribution to the estimated significant wave heights. The design wave height was 9.39 m for 1 in 100 year return period for a direct hit of cyclone. 相似文献
13.
陆架波的性质如频散关系、形成机制等受地形影响。研究地形对陆架波的性质影响具有重要意义。基于陆架拦截波理论,数值计算了分段线性地形下不同宽度陆架上陆架拦截波的频散关系、长波假设下波动的相速度、阻尼情况下的波动耗散率以及强迫波的外力影响因子。分析了陆架宽度及坡度对自由及强迫陆架拦截波性质的影响。陆架宽度影响陆架拦截波的频散关系。陆架变宽,使得长波频散曲线的斜率增大。陆架宽度的增加使第一模态陆架拦截波有明显的性质变化:相速度增大,波动受辐散影响的程度变大,摩擦衰减距离增大,且风应力旋度在波动的生成机制中起到的作用渐强。在宽的陆架上,研究陆架拦截波的生成及强迫波的振幅时,应充分考虑风应力旋度的作用。第二、三模态波动的相速度受陆架坡度的影响较大,但摩擦衰减距离基本都在200km左右,几乎不随陆架宽度改变,属于局地波。 相似文献
14.
An integrally coupled wave-tide-surge model was developed and then applied to the simulation of the wave-typhoon surge for the typhoon Isewan (typhoon Vera (5915)), which is the strongest typhoon that has struck Japan and caused incalculable damage. An integrally coupled tide-surge-wave model using identical and homogeneous meshes in an unstructured grid system was used to correctly resolve the physics of wave-circulation interaction in both models. All model components were validated independently. The storm surge and wave properties such as the surge height, the significant wave height, wave period and direction were reproduced reasonably under the meteorological forcing, which was reprocessed to be close to the observations. The resulting modeling system can be used extensively for the prediction of the storm surge and waves and the usual barotropic forecast. 相似文献
15.
The spectral characteristics of shallow water waves with significant wave height more than 2 m based on the data collected along the Indian coast is examined. It was found that the value of Joint North Sea Wave Project (JONSWAP) parameters (α and γ) increases with significant wave height and mean wave period and decreases with spectral peak period. The estimated average value (0.0027 and 1.63) of the JONSWAP parameters, α and γ were less than the generally recommended values of 0.0081 and 3.3, respectively. By carrying out a multi-regression analysis, an empirical equation is arrived relating the JONSWAP parameters with significant wave height, peak wave period and mean wave period. It was found that the Scott spectra underestimate the maximum spectral energy of high waves. The study shows that the measured wave spectra can be represented by JONSWAP spectra with the JONSWAP parameters estimated based on the equation proposed in this paper. 相似文献
16.
The loss of beach sand from berm and dune due to high waves and surge is a universal phenomenon associated with sporadic storm activities. To protect the development in a coastal hazard zone, hard structures or coastal setback have been established in many countries around the world. In this paper, the requirement of a storm beach buffer, being a lesser extent landward comparing with the coastal setback to ensure the safety of infrastructures, is numerically assessed using the SBEACH model for three categories of wave conditions in terms of storm return period, median sand grain size, berm width, and design water level. Two of the key outputs from the numerical calculations, berm retreat and bar formation offshore, are then analysed, as well as beach profile change. After having performed a series of numerical studies on selected large wave tank (LWT) test results with monochromatic waves using SBEACH, we may conclude that: (1) Berm erosion increases and submerged bar develops further offshore as the storm return period increases for beach with a specific sand grain size, or as the sand grain reduces on a beach under the action of identical wave condition; (2) Higher storm waves yield a large bar to form quicker and subsequently cause wave breaking on the bar crest, which can reduce the wave energy and limit the extent of the eroding berm; (3) A larger buffer width is required for a beach comprising small sand grain, in order to effectively absorb storm wave energy; and (4) Empirical relationships can be tentatively proposed to estimate the storm beach buffer width, from the input of wave conditions and sediment grain size. These results would benefit a beach nourishment project for shore protection or design of a recreational beach. 相似文献
17.
随着海南深水网箱养殖规模的不断扩大,海浪精细化预报的需求越来越紧迫。以海南岛周边海域为目标区域,基于近岸海洋模式ADCIRC(Advancedcirculationmodel)和海浪模式SWAN(Simulating WavesNearshore),建立了海南岛近岸养殖区台风浪数值预报系统。该系统采用非结构高分辨率网格,近岸分辨率达到了100m。选取2014年第9号超强台风"威马逊"(RAMMASUN)进行针对海南岛近岸养殖区的台风浪数值模拟后报。模拟结果与实测数据较为吻合。采用全球预报系统GFS(Global Forecast System)风场和气压场数据作为驱动场对2018年7月的一次热带风暴过程进行预报,48小时、24小时预报的有效波高和实测结果比较平均相对误差分别为20.75%和17.0%。总体来说,该模型的预报精度可以满足近岸养殖区台风浪预报业务的需求。 相似文献
18.
Several levels of increasing complexity of transferring wave information from offshore to nearshore have been studied to quantify their influence on extreme beach erosion estimates. Beach profiles which have been monitored since 1976 were used to estimate extreme beach erosion and compared to predictions. Examination of the wave propagation assumptions revolves around two types of offshore to nearshore transfer: excluding or including wave breaking and bottom friction. A second complication is whether still water level variations (ocean tide plus storm surge) are included.The inclusion of various combinations of wave propagation processes other than shoaling and refraction in the wave transfer function changes on the extreme erosion distribution tail through lowering estimates above one year return period. This brings the predicted tails closer to the observations, but does not capture the upper limit of storm demand implied by the extensive beach profile data set. Including wave breaking has a marked effect on probabilistic estimates of beach erosion. The inclusion of bottom friction is less significant. The inclusion of still water level variability in the wave transfer calculation had minimal impact on results for the case study site, where waves were transferred from offshore to water at 20 m depth. These changes were put into perspective by comparing them to changes resulting from limiting beach erosion by adjusting the statistical distributions of peak wave height and storm duration to have maximum limits. We conclude that the proposed improvements on wave transformation methods are as significant as limiting wave erosion potential and worth including. 相似文献
19.
Using all of the atmospheric patterns classified by Polyakova A.M., we accomplished calculations of the surface wind fields
over the North Pacific for wind waves observable 6, 12, 18, and 24 hours after a storm and the swell waves observable 24,
48, and 72 hours after a storm. The considerable extension of the ocean creates quasi-unlimited speeding up of the wind waves
during continuous strong winds (over 20 meters per second). This determines the presence of wide areas of highly developed
wind waves with a 5% probability that the wave heights will exceed the 10–12 meter estimates. The swell waves decay faster:
their height reduces by half in 24 h, while, in 72 h, they achieve the background level of the ocean’s swell waves. 相似文献
20.
Ocean surface waves are strongly forced by high wind conditions associated with winter storms in the Sea of Japan. They are also modulated by tides and storm surges. The effects of the variability in surface wind forcing, tides and storm surges on the waves are investigated using a wave model, a high-resolution atmospheric mesoscale model and a hydrodynamic ocean circulation model. Five month-long wave model simulations are inducted to examine the sensitivity of ocean waves to various wind forcing fields, tides and storm surges during January 1997. Compared with observed mean wave parameters, results indicate that the high frequency variability in the surface wind filed has very great effect on wave simulation. Tides and storm surges have a significant impact on the waves in nearshores of the Tsushima-kaihyō, but not for other regions in the Sea of Japan. High spatial and temporal resolution and good quality surface wind products will be crucial for the prediction of surface waves in the JES and other marginal seas, especially near the coastal regions. 相似文献