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水动力时空变化对近岸风浪演化的影响——以渤海湾西南岸为例 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
采用SWAN模型和ADCIRC模型建立了风浪、潮汐和水流联合作用的耦合数值模式,并通过渤海湾西南岸实测资料对该模式进行了验证。利用该模式分析了近岸区水位和流场时空变化对风浪模拟结果的影响,计算结果表明水位变化对近岸区风浪模拟结果有显著影响,特别是中等大风过程高潮位时波高受水位影响的变化幅值可达0.5m以上,且水深越浅影响越大。但在岸滩平缓的近岸海域由于流速、流向的时空变化不太剧烈,流场作用和波浪辐射应力作用对波浪场的影响都基本可以忽略。在模拟近岸风浪过程时,应选用耦合模式。 相似文献
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Hong-Sheng Zhang Hong-Jun Zhao Ping-Xing Ding Guo-Ping Miao 《Ocean Engineering》2007,34(10):1393-1404
By transforming two different time-dependent hyperbolic mild slope equations with dissipation term for wave propagation on non-uniform currents into wave-action conservation equation and eikonal equation, respectively, shown are the different effects of dissipation term on the eikonal equation in the two different mild slope equations. The performances of intrinsic frequency and wave number are also discussed. Thus the suitable mathematical model is chosen in which the wave number vector and intrinsic frequency are expressed both more rigorously and completely. By using the perturbation method, an extended evolution equation, which is of time-dependent parabolic type, is developed from the time-dependent hyperbolic mild slope equation which exists in the suitable mathematical model, and solved by using the alternating direction implicit (ADI) method. Presented is the numerical model for wave propagation and transformation on non-uniform currents in water of slowly varying topography. From the comparisons of the numerical solutions with the theoretical solutions of two examples of wave propagation, respectively, the results show that the numerical solutions are in good agreement with the exact ones. Calculating the interactions between incident wave and current on a sloping beach [Arthur, R.S., 1950. Refraction of shallow water waves. The combined effects of currents and underwater topography. EOS Transactions, August 31, 549–552], the differences of wave number vector between refraction and combined refraction–diffraction of waves are discussed quantitatively, while the effects of different methods of calculating wave number vector on numerical results are shown. 相似文献
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Numerical study of pollutant movement in waves and wave-induced long-shore currents in surf zone 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
Water waves, wave-induced long-shore currents and movement of pollutants in waves and currents have been numerically studied based on the hyperbolic mild-slope equation, the shallow water equation , as well as the pollutant movement equation, and the numerical results have also been validated by experimental data. It is shown that the long-shore current velocity and wave set-up increase with the increasing incident wave amplitude and slope steepness of the shore plane ; the wave set-up increases with the in- creasing incident wave period;and the pollutant morement proceeds more quiekly with the increasing incident wave amplitude and slope steepness of the shore palane. In surf zones, the long-shore currents induced by the inclined incident waves have effectively affected the pollutant movement. 相似文献
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By coupling the three-dimensional hydrodynamic model with the wave model, numerical simulations of the three-dimensional wave-induced current are carried out in this study. The wave model is based on the numerical solution of the modified wave action equation and eikonal equation, which can describe the wave refraction and diffraction. The hydrodynamic model is driven by the wave-induced radiation stresses and affected by the wave turbulence. The numerical implementation of the module has used the finite-volume schemes on unstructured grid, which provides great flexibility for modeling the waves and currents in the complex actual nearshore, and ensures the conservation of energy propagation. The applicability of the proposed model is evaluated in calculating the cases of wave set-up, longshore currents, undertow on a sloping beach, rip currents and meandering longshore currents on a tri-cuspate beach. The results indicate that it is necessary to introduce the depth-dependent radiation stresses into the numerical simulation of wave-induced currents, and comparisons show that the present model makes better prediction on the wave procedure as well as both horizontal and vertical structures in the wave-induced current field. 相似文献
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地形变化下渤海湾M2分潮潮致余流的相应变化及其对污染物输运的影响 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
利用嵌套模式通过流速驱动对渤海湾的潮汐潮流进行了高分辨率数值模拟,分析了开边界条件的选取对渤海湾潮致余流模拟的影响。并用定点观测流速资料验证了在渤海湾流速作开边界条件驱动模式的模拟结果。近年来由于围海造田,使渤海湾海岸线向里推进,岸线变的更加平缓。在渤海湾新旧地形下,对渤海湾环流进行了模拟,分析了地形变化对渤海湾环流的影响。结果表明,渤海湾西北角的顺时针流环在新地形下消失,并表现为较强的逆时针流,湾口双环结构依然存在,但南部流环在新地形下由于受到西部强的逆时针流而变弱,流环半径减小。通过分析潮致Lagrange余流场和调查的污染物浓度分布特征发现,渤海湾的污染物分布特征与Lagrange余流有很强的相关性,Lagrange余流结构影响了污染物的分布特征,新旧地形下余流场的改变也导致了污染物浓度场分布特征上的变化。 相似文献
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《Coastal Engineering》2006,53(5-6):419-439
The flow on a plane beach with a random, directionally spread wave field was simulated with a Boussinesq model. The random wave spectra were directionally symmetric with their central direction perpendicular to the beach, so no constant longshore current was generated. Variable wave-averaged currents were generated because of the spatially variable wave field, and sometimes formed offshore directed rip currents that appear in variable longshore locations. The rip currents are associated with a vortex pair which is generated within the surfzone and subsequently propagates offshore. Analysis of the vorticity balance show that the main vorticity input occurs within the inner surfzone. Three different beach slopes and four different wave spectra are simulated. The frequency, duration, and intensity of the transient rips depend on both the beach slope and the incident wave spectra. The results have important engineering implications for the transport of material in the nearshore zone, in particular on longshore uniform beaches. 相似文献
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For the study of the cross-shore wave-induced hydrodynamics in the swash zone, a numerical model is developed based on the one-dimensional non-linear shallow water (NSW) equations for prediction of hydrodynamic parameters in the swash zone. In order to evaluate the accuracy of the outputs of the numerical model, the model's predictions in terms of water surface elevations and cross-shore velocities, are compared to field data from full-scale experiments conducted on three sites with different beach slope; mild and steep, several bed particle sizes and under various incident wave conditions. The quantitative and qualitative comparison of the results of the numerical model and the full-scale data reveals that the model can generally predict many aspects of the flow in the surf and swash zone on both types of beach. The accuracy is adequate for application in a sediment transport study. Considering the time-history and probability distribution of water surface elevation, the model is generally more accurate on steep beaches than on the mild beach. The model can adequately simulate the dominant frequency across the beach and saturation of higher frequencies on both mild and steep beaches for various incident wave energy characteristics. With regard to the horizontal (cross-shore) velocity, the sawtooth shape of time-history and negative acceleration of water are well predicted by the model for both mild and steep beaches. Due to the uncertainties in maximum and minimum values of velocity data, clear judgement about the accuracy of the numerical model in this matter was not possible. However, the comparison of the minimum velocities (offshore direction) revealed that the application of friction factors below the range which is suggested by literature best match the data. 相似文献
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Numerical study of wave and longshore current interaction 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
Wave and longshore current interaction was examined based on the numerical models.In these models,water waves in the presence of longshore currents were modeled by parabolic mild slope equation,and wave breaking induced longshore currents were modeled by shallow water equation.Water wave provided the radiation stress gradients to drive current.Wave and longshore current interactions were considered by cycling the wave and longshore current models to a steady state.The experiments for regular and irregular breaking wave induced longshore currents by Hamilton and Ebersole（2001） and Reniers and Battjes（1997） were simulated.The numerical results indicate that the present models are effective for simulating the interaction of wave and breaking wave induced longshore currents,and the numerically simulated longshore current at wave breaking point considering wave and longshore current interaction show some disagreement with those neglecting the wave-current interaction,and the breaking wave induced longshore current effect on wave transformation is not obvious. 相似文献
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渤海及黄海北部的风海流数值计算及余流计算 总被引：1，自引：1，他引：1
依据黄渤海实测风的资料对渤海及北黄海进行了月平均风海流数值计算。计算表明 ,1月份在西北风的作用下 ,在渤海出现 1个逆时针旋转的环流 ,在辽东湾北部及黄海北部出现 1个顺时针旋转的环流 ,渤海海峡的海流北进南出。 7月份在南风和东南风的作用下 ,风海流的变化形式与 1月份大致相反 ,海峡处呈南进北出的形式。对渤海中部某点 1年的潮流资料通过低通滤波的方法计算逐时的余流值 ,得到该点 1年内表层最大的实测余流为 31.9cm/ s,全年 90 %多的时间内表层余流小于 10 cm/ s。对辽东湾北部某点和渤海湾西南部某点数月潮流资料也进行了低通滤波 ,并将得到的逐时余流与同步风作了比较。依据该 2点风和余流的关系以及黄海北部 6个点风和余流的关系验证了风海流数值计算的结果 ,表明在这些点上实测与计算结果拟合良好 相似文献
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近岸波、流作用下结构物附近海岸演变的数值模拟 总被引：5，自引：0，他引：5
针对与砂质海岸在波浪作用下的演变有关的波浪、近岸流及输沙问题进行了系统的研究,并对结构物附近海岸演变进行了数值模拟。考虑了波浪折射-绕射及波浪破碎的综合作用,在近岸流场的模拟中用沿水深积分形成的K方程模型确定涡粘系数。计算岸滩地形变化时,综合波浪、近岸流作用的底沙和悬沙输沙率,并考虑波浪对泥沙作用的影响。模型对防波堤和近岸沉船附近地形变化进行了模拟,效果良好。 相似文献
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TAO Jianhua 《中国海洋工程》2001,(2):269-280
The "surface roller" to simulate wave energy dissipation of wave breaking is introduced into the random wave model based on approximate parabolic mild slope equation in this paper to simulate the random wave transportation including diffraction, refraction and breaking in nearshore areas. The roller breaking random wave higher-order approximate parabolic equation model has been verified by the existing experimental data for a plane slope beach and a circular shoal, and the numerical results of random wave breaking model agree with the experimental data very well. This model can be applied to calculate random wave propagation from deep to shallow water in large areas near the shore over natu ral topography. 相似文献
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A reformed numerical model based on the “one-line theory” for beach deformation is presented. In this model, the change of beach slope during coastline procession is considered.A wave numerical model combined with wave refraction, diffraction and reflection is used to simulate wave climate to increase numerical accuracy.The results show that the numerical model has a good precision based on the adequate field data. The results can be applied to practical engineering. 相似文献
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渤海湾风浪场的数值模拟 总被引：14，自引：1，他引：13
采用SWAN模型对渤海湾在定常风和非定常风作用下的波浪场进行了模拟,并利用黄骅港附近波浪统计资料对模拟结果进行了验证。结果表明：SWAN模型较好地模拟了渤海湾在定常风和非定常风作用下风浪成长和传播过程。此外,还应用ADCIRC潮流模型,初步探讨了潮流对波浪要素的影响：(1)无流存在时,波高的成长和波周期的变化是一条光滑的曲线,但当有流加入时,由于其流速和水位在一个潮周期内随时间的变化足不均匀的,其对波浪成长产生影响,使波高和周期呈不规则变化;(2)波浪成长初期,流对波高增长的影响并不明显,但当波高增大到一定程度时,流的存在对波高的影响是很明显的。 相似文献