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1.
珊瑚岸礁破碎带附近波浪演化实验研究 总被引：4，自引：1，他引：3
通过波浪水槽实验对珊瑚岸礁破碎带附近波浪演变规律开展研究,实验采用了概化的岸礁模型,测试了4种礁坪水深、4种礁前斜坡坡度和一系列入射波高的组合工况。对破碎带宽度和破碎带附近波浪的入射、反射、透射以及能量耗散进行了测量分析,透射波的计算考虑了礁坪上高次谐波的影响。结果表明:礁坪水深和入射深水波高的比值(即礁坪相对水深)是影响岸礁破碎带附近波浪演化的关键参数,而礁前斜坡坡度的影响在本文测量的范围内可以忽略不计。破碎带宽度与礁坪上浅水波波长为同一数量级,并与礁坪相对水深成反比;透射系数随礁坪相对水深的增大呈线性增长,而反射系数的变化却无类似规律;岸礁能够削弱超过50%入射波能,礁坪相对水深越小,波浪破碎造成的能量耗散越大。 相似文献
2.
《Coastal Engineering》2006,53(1):39-48
This paper describes a simple method for modelling wave breaking over submerged structures, with the view of using such modelling approach in a coastal area morphodynamic modelling system.A dominant mechanism for dissipating wave energy over a submerged breakwater is depth-limited wave breaking. Available models for energy dissipation due to wave breaking are developed for beaches (gentle slopes) and require further modifications to model wave breaking over submerged breakwaters.In this paper, wave breaking is split into two parts, namely: 1) depth-limited breaking modelled using Battjes and Janssen's (1978) theory [Battjes, J.A. and Jannsen, J.P.F.M. (1978). Energy loss and setup due to breaking of random waves. Proceedings of the 16th Int. Conf. Coast. Eng., Hamburg, Germany, pp. 569-587.] and 2) steepness limited breaking modelled using an integrated form of the Hasselmann's whitecapping dissipation term, commonly used in fully spectral wind–wave models. The parameter γ2, governing the maximum wave height at incipient breaking (Hmax = γ2d) is used as calibration factor to tune numerical model results to selected laboratory measurements. It is found that γ2 varies mainly with the relative submergence depth (ratio of submergence depth at breakwater crest to significant wave height), and a simple relationship is proposed. It is shown that the transmission coefficients obtained using this approach compare favourably with those calculated using published empirical expressions. 相似文献
3.
本文通过波浪水槽试验研究了大糙率礁面影响下波浪沿礁的演化和爬高规律，测试了一系列规则波工况并对比了光滑礁面和粗糙礁面的情况。结果分析表明：二次谐波是礁坪上透射波的重要组成成分，粗糙礁面使主频波和二次谐波减小，对更高阶波的影响不显著；相对礁坪水深是描述礁坪上波浪透射的关键参数，礁面从光滑变为粗糙时海岸附近透射系数显著减小，能量衰减系数平均增大了8%，但礁前反射系数与礁面糙率之间无明显关系；礁后岸滩爬高随着透射波高的增大而增长，最后拟合了本文试验条件下珊瑚礁大糙率礁面预测规则波爬高的关系式。 相似文献
4.
M. R. Gourlay 《Coastal Engineering》1996,27(3-4)
Wave set-up may be significant in determining water levels on coral reefs particularly in microtidal environments and hence is an important factor for the design of reef-top structures and for the stability of reef-top islands. Laboratory experiments have been made on a two dimensional model of an idealised horizontal reef under two different conditions corresponding to a fringing reef (or closed lagoon) situation and a platform reef (or open lagoon) situation. Both wave set-up on the reef-top and the wave-generated flow across the reef were measured and related to wave and tide level conditions.All other factors being the same, wave set-up is greatest at low tide levels whereas wave-generated flow is greater at higher tide levels. The magnitude of the set-up on a platform reef with a wave-generated flow is less than on a fringing reef without any net flow by an amount equal to the velocity head of the flow across the reef. Dimensionless parameters
and q/√gHo3 are found to be functions of relative submergence parameters hr/Ho or
. For values of (
) Ho > 1 waves break on the reef-top and radiation stress theory can be used to calculate set-up. For (
)Ho < 0.7 waves break on the reef-face and set-up is determined by broadcrested weir control at the reef-edge. (The symbols are defined as follows: g is gravitational acceleration; hr is still water depth over horizontal reef-top; Ho is offreef wave height (equivalent deep water value); q is discharge per unit length of reef edge; T is wave period and
is maximum wave set-up on reef-top.) 相似文献
5.
The wave transmission characteristics and wave induced pressures on twin plate breakwater are investigated experimentally in regular and random waves.A total of twenty pressure transducers are fixed on four surfaces of twin plate to measure the wave induced dynamic pressures.The spatial distribution of dynamic wave pressure is given along the surface of the twin plate.The uplift wave force obtained by integrating the hydrodynamic pressure along the structure is presented.Discussed are the influence of different incident wave parameters including the relative plate width B /L,relative wave height /i H a and relative submergence depth s /a on the non-dimensional dynamic wave pressures and total wave forces.From the investigation,it is found that the optimum transmission coefficient,t K occurs around B /L 0.41 ~ 0.43,and the twin plate breakwater is more effective in different water depths.The maximum of pressure ratio decreases from 1.8 to 1.1 when the relative submergence depth of top plate is increased from 0.8to +0.8. 相似文献
6.
Osamu Abe Atsushi Watanabe V. V. S. S. Sarma Yohei Matsui Hiroya Yamano Naohiro Yoshida Toshiro Saino 《Journal of Oceanography》2010,66(3):363-372
We estimated gas exchange rates in Kabira Reef at Ishigaki Island, southwest Japan, using a mass balance calculation with
dual “biological” tracers: dissolved inorganic carbon (DIC) and dissolved oxygen (DO). The nighttime results allowed us to
obtain reasonable gas transfer velocity k
w values, all of which exceeded those obtained in wind-dominant studies. The difference is likely due to the contribution of
turbulence generated by the interaction between the current and bottom topography. The k
w obtained during high tides is consistent with that reported by Raymond and Cole (2001), whereas k
w during low tides is significantly higher, which seems to be caused by enhanced friction with the bottom of the reef and/or
bubble-induced gas transfer by wave breaking at the reef crest. 相似文献
7.
8.
Wave interaction with twin plate wave barrier 总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3
The wave transmission and reflection characteristics and wave induced pressures on single surface plate and twin plate barriers were investigated experimentally for a wide range of wave heights and periods in regular and random waves. Seven different spacing between the plates were tested. It is found in general, hydrodynamically the twin plate is better than the single surface plate to reduce the wave transmission and increase the wave reflection. It is found that the transmission coefficient of twin plate reduced from 0.8 to 0.3 when the relative plate width is increased from 0.18 to 0.84. Transmission coefficient of twin plate barrier shows oscillating behavior, when relative plate width is increased due to blocking and pumping effect. The reflection coefficient increased from 0.25 to 0.65, when the relative width of the plate is increased from 0.18 to 0.84. The increase in spacing between the plates was also found to increase the reflection coefficient. The transmission coefficient, Kt for 98% probability of non-exceedence was found to be minimum and is about 0.60 when the relative spacing between the plate is about 0.12, compared to Kt=0.76 for single surface plate. The reflection coefficient for 98% probability of non-exceedence was found to exceed 0.66 for single surface plate, whereas it is 0.73 for twin plate with relative spacing of about 0.40. From the investigation with wide range of input parameters, it is found that the twin plate barrier needs to be designed for highest 98% pressure ratio of 2.0, which is equal to the static pressure induced by the design incident wave height. 相似文献
9.
It has been well observed that a reef crest (ridge) may be present at the reef edge, but so far very few published studies focusing on the effects of such reef-crest on the wave dynamics over fringing reefs. To understand the role of a reef-crest configuration in determining breaking-wave induced setup over the reef flat, a series of experiments were carried out in a wave flume using an idealized fringing reef model with a reef crest. Experimental results were reported for a trapezoidal reef crest with five reef-crest widths under a series of monochromatic waves. Also examined was the reef without a reef crest. Data analysis shows that larger energy dissipation associated with smaller surfzone width around the reef edge occurred with a wider reef crest. The maximum wave-induced setup on the reef flat in the presence of the reef crest was significantly larger than that without, and it also increased with increasing reef-crest width. The reef-crest submergence was found to be a primary parameter controlling the magnitude of wave setup on the reef flat provided that the reef crest was sufficient wide. An alternative semi-analytical 1DH model based on the balance of cross-shore momentum was proposed. The model was validated by present laboratory data as well as three existing 1DH laboratory studies. Comparing with other two representative semi-analytical models in the literature showed that the proposed model was capable of better reproducing the maximum wave-induced setup on the reef flat for a variety of reef profiles with/without a reef crest, different reef-crest water levels, as well as both monochromatic and spectral waves. The model parameter was physically related to the two characteristic lengths in the surf zone and its value was dependent on the fore-reef slope as well as the presence of a reef crest. The 1DH model was also satisfactorily applied to a fringing reef in field conditions where the effects of fore-reef friction and back-reef lagoon were not important. 相似文献
10.
Numerical prediction of performance of submerged breakwaters 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
The results of a numerical model study on the transmission characteristics of a submerged breakwater are presented. Study aimed to determine the effect of depth of submergence, crest width, initial wave conditions and material properties on the transmission characteristics of the submerged breakwater. The results highlight the optimum crest width of the breakwater and optimum clear spacing between two breakwaters. A submerged permeable breakwater with ds/d=0.5, p=0.3 and f=1.0, reduces the transmission coefficient by about 10% than the impermeable breakwater. The results indicates an optimum width ratio of B/d=0.75 for achieving minimum transmission. By restricting the effective width ratio of the series of breakwaters to 0.75, studies were conducted to determine the effect of clear spacing between breakwaters on transmission coefficient, suggesting an optimum clear spacing of w/b=2.00 to obtain Kt below 0.6. 相似文献
11.
Breaking wave loads on coastal structures depend primarily on the type of wave breaking at the instant of impact. When a wave breaks on a vertical wall with an almost vertical front face called the “perfect breaking”, the greatest impact forces are produced. The correct prediction of impact forces from perfect breaking of waves on seawalls and breakwaters is closely dependent on the accurate determination of their configurations at breaking. The present study is concerned with the determination of the geometrical properties of perfect breaking waves on composite-type breakwaters by employing artificial neural networks. Using a set of laboratory data, the breaker crest height, hb, breaker height, Hb, and water depth in front of the wall, dw, from perfect breaking of waves on composite breakwaters are predicted using the artificial neural network technique and the results are compared with those obtained from linear and multi-linear regression models. The comparisons of the predicted results from the present models with measured data show that the hb, Hb and dw values, which represent the geometry of waves breaking directly on composite breakwaters, can be predicted more accurately by artificial neural networks compared to linear and multi-linear regressions. 相似文献
12.
珊瑚礁破碎带附近波浪演化和波生流实验研究 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
为了研究珊瑚岸礁破碎带附近波浪演化和波生流特性,通过水槽实验对规则波浪作用下珊瑚岸礁上沿礁分布的水位和流速进行了详细的测量。在典型卷破波条件下,测试了礁冠存在与不存在的两种情况。实验结果表明,多重波浪反射作用引起岸礁上形成不完全驻波,而破碎带附近的浅化作用则产生高次谐波,波浪破碎所耗散的波能主要来源于主频波,礁坪上透射波成分中二次谐波与主频波的能量相当;礁冠的存在引起破碎带宽度减小、礁坪上增水变大以及礁坪上各次谐波变小;礁冠不存在时,岸礁上波生流的沿礁分布与平直海岸相似,而礁冠的存在一定程度上阻碍了礁坪上水体向外海的回流。研究成果将丰富和发展珊瑚礁水动力学理论,并为岛礁工程的建设和维护提供一定的理论参考。 相似文献
13.
The wave transmission, reflection and energy dissipation characteristics of ‘’-type breakwaters were studied using physical models. Regular and random waves in a wide range of wave heights and periods and a constant water depth were used. Five different depths of immersion (two emerged, one surface flushing and two submerged conditions) of this breakwater were selected. The coefficient of transmission, Kt, and coefficient of reflection, Kr, were obtained from the measurements, and the coefficient of energy loss, Kl was calculated using the law of balance of energy. It was found that the wave transmission is significantly reduced with increased relative water depth, d/L, whether the vertical barrier of the breakwater is surface piercing or submerged, where ‘d’ is the water depth and ‘L’ is the wave length. The wave reflection decreases and energy loss increases with increased wave steepness, especially when the top tip of the vertical barrier of this breakwater is kept at still water level (SWL). For any incident wave climate (moderate or storm waves), the wave transmission consistently decreases and the reflection increases with increased relative depth of immersion, Δ/d from −0.142 to 0.142. Kt values less than 0.3 can be easily obtained for the case of Δ/d=+0.071 and 0.142, where Δ is the height of exposure (+ve) or depth of immersion (−ve) of the top tip of the vertical barrier. This breakwater is capable of dissipating wave energy to an extent of 50–80%. The overall performance of this breakwater was found to be better in the random wave fields than in the regular waves. A comparison of the hydrodynamic performance of ‘’-type and ‘T’-type shows that ‘T’-type breakwater is better than ‘’-type by about 20–30% under identical conditions. 相似文献
14.
为了解极端波浪非线性特征,明确波群在演化过程中的水动力学特性,针对一系列高斯波群进行了深水物理试验分析。试验结果显示,增加波陡或波群宽度,均可使波面偏度Sk发生明显变化,尤其当波浪发生破碎后,在破碎区域内,波面偏度变化范围剧烈增大,说明该偏度极大值可能作为判断破碎的一个指标。波陡和波群宽度对波面不对称度影响程度不同:当波陡或波群宽度增加后,波峰不对称度所受影响最大,波峰前端波谷不对称度次之,波峰后端波谷不对称度所受影响最小,但仍不可忽略。在波浪演化过程中,幅值谱出现不同程度频带下移,波浪破碎后,会出现永久频带下移;当调制不稳定发生时,随着调制不稳定指数增加,频带下移量呈现快速增长趋势。 相似文献
15.
鉴于双弧板式透空堤的消浪性能仍不理想,提出了一种潜堤—双弧板组合结构,并基于OpenFOAM软件建立了波浪与该结构相互作用的数值模型,采用试验结果对所建数值模型进行验证。在此基础上,讨论了该新型结构的消浪特性、波压力分布特征以及所受波浪力的影响因素。结果表明,透射系数随相对板宽的增大而减小,反射系数则相反。透射与反射系数随相对潜深的变化较为显著。当结构位于静水位上方（即相对潜深为-0.05）时,透射系数最小而反射系数最大;当结构位于静水位下方（即相对潜深为0.05）时,透射系数最大而反射系数最小。该组合结构两块弧板上下表面的正负压力变化关于横轴近似对称,不同测点处的压力值差异显著。水平波浪力与垂直波浪力的变化趋势大致相似,但垂直波浪力远大于水平波浪力。研究结果可为其工程应用提供理论指导与技术支撑。 相似文献
16.
As a fully developed (Airy) wave propagates from deep into shallow water, its crest becomes more peaked while the trough flattens out. The median crest diameter MCD, defined as the distance between the wave flanks under the crest at a level halfway between the crest and trough, therefore decreases relative to the similarly defined median trough diameter MTD, which remains constant up to the breaking point. The MCD is directly related to other wave characteristics, which enables water particle velocities to be calculated for any water depth without having to recur to more complex, higher-order Stokes, cnoidal or Fenton theories. Over a nearly horizontal bottom, most fully developed wave characteristics can be expressed as functions of the wave period Tw. It is shown that the horizontal particle velocity at the bottom under the breaker crest is at least 9 times faster than under the breaker trough, which explains why sediment is transported landward under fair weather conditions. The proposed equations also shed new light on the formation of spilling, plunging and surging/collapsing breakers. 相似文献
17.
The experimental results have so far shown that when a wave breaks on a vertical wall with an almost vertical front face at the instant of impact that is called perfect breaking or perfect impact, the greatest impact forces are produced on the wall. Therefore, the configuration of breaking waves is important in the design considerations of coastal structures. The present study is concerned with determining the geometrical properties of oscillatory waves that break perfectly on the vertical wall of composite-type breakwaters. The laboratory tests for perfect breaking waves on composite breakwaters are conducted with base slopes of 1/2, 1/4 and 1/6, and with berm widths of 0.00, 0.10, 0.20, 0.30 and 0.40 m. The shape and the dimensions of waves at the instant of perfect breaking on the wall are determined using a video camera. The experimental results for the geometrical properties of the breakers are presented non-dimensionally. Within the range of present experimental conditions, it is found that the dimensionless breaker crest height, hb/dw, and dimensionless breaker height, Hb/dw, decrease; and, dimensionless breaker depth, dw/H0, increases with increasing relative berm width, B/D. The breaker height index, Hb/H0, is almost unaffected by B/D. The deep-water wave steepness and the base slope of the breakwater do not seem to influence the geometrical properties of the breakers at wall systematically. 相似文献
18.
The paper considers the application of two numerical models to simulate the evolution of steep breaking waves. The first one is a Lagrangian wave model based on equations of motion of an inviscid fluid in Lagrangian coordinates. A method for treating spilling breaking is introduced and includes dissipative suppression of the breaker and correction of crest shape to improve the post breaking behaviour. The model is used to create a Lagrangian numerical wave tank, to reproduce experimental results of wave group evolution. The same set of experiments is modelled using a novel VoF numerical wave tank created using OpenFOAM. Lagrangian numerical results are validated against experiments and VoF computations and good agreement is demonstrated. Differences are observed only for a small region around the breaking crest. 相似文献
19.
在试验水池中，开展了波浪在岛礁地形上演化问题的研究。首先在实验水池中建立了西太平洋某岛礁地形的模型，然后采用改进的JONSWAP谱，由造波机产生不同周期、波高的随机波浪。试验中观察到了不同类型畸形波生成的过程及不同波面形态的畸形波。对偏度、峰度及水深与畸形波要素Hm/Hs（Hm表示波列中的最大波高， Hs为有效波高）的关系进行了详细的分析，同时，对畸形波波高Hfr与偏度的关也进行了分析。通过对试验结果分析，发现峰度与畸形波要素i>Hm/Hs呈正相关， Hfr增大时相应的偏度也会呈现增大的趋势。此外，水深的变化剧烈时（如斜坡、海山位置）有助于畸形波的发生。 相似文献
20.
This paper demonstrates a practical step-wise method for modelling wave energy at the landscape scale using GIS and remote sensing techniques at Alphonse Atoll, Seychelles. Inputs are a map of the benthic surface (seabed) cover, a detailed bathymetric model derived from remotely sensed Compact Airborne Spectrographic Imager (CASI) data and information on regional wave heights. Incident energy at the reef crest around the atoll perimeter is calculated as a function of its deepwater value with wave parameters (significant wave height and period) hindcast in the offshore zone using the WaveWatch III application developed by the National Oceanographic and Atmospheric Administration. Energy modifications are calculated at constant intervals as waves transform over the forereef platform along a series of reef profile transects running into the atoll centre. Factors for shoaling, refraction and frictional attenuation are calculated at each interval for given changes in bathymetry and benthic coverage type and a nominal reduction in absolute energy is incorporated at the reef crest to account for wave breaking. Overall energy estimates are derived for a period of 5 years and related to spatial patterning of reef flat surface cover (sand and seagrass patches). 相似文献