共查询到20条相似文献，搜索用时 31 毫秒
1.
Momoki Koga 《Journal of Oceanography》1984,40(2):105-114
The relation between the intensity of breaking of individual wind-wave crests and parameters of wave size and wave form (e. g., height, period, steepness and skewness) is examined, and the process of change of these parameters is studied in a wind-wave
tank (reference wind speed 15 m sec−1, fetch 16 m). Distributions of the wave form parameters are different for breaking and nonbreaking waves. Fully breaking
waves seem to hold the relationH ∞T
2, whereH is the individual wave height andT is the period. The condition of breaking is not simply determined by the simple criterion of Stokes' limit. Wave height and
steepness of a breaking wave are not always larger than those of a nonbreaking wave. This suggests the existence of an overshooting
phenomenon in the breaking wave. The wave form parameters are found to change cyclically in a statistical sense during the
wave propagation. The period of the cycle in the present case is estimated to be longer than four wave periods. An intermittency
of wave breaking is associated with this cyclic process. Roughly speaking, two or three succeeding breaking-waves sporadically
exist among a series of nonbreaking waves along the fetch. 相似文献
2.
S. A. Kitaigorodskii 《Izvestiya Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics》2009,45(3):372-379
New experimental data that make it possible to explain and predict the observed variability of turbulent-energy dissipation in the upper ocean are discussed. For this purpose, the dependence of the energy dissipation rate of breaking wind waves on their propagation velocity (see [1]) is used. The turbulent-energy dissipation values obtained earlier in [2, 3] by a direct method are compared to the results of radar measurements of individual breaking events presented in [1]. On the basis of this comparison, a strong dependence of the turbulent-energy dissipation value on the stage of wind-wave development, which is characterized by the ratio U a /c p (U a is the wind speed and c p is the phase speed of the peak of the wind-wave spectrum) is confirmed. This dependence was found earlier purely empirically. Moreover, it is shown that the theoretically obtained dependence (c p /U a )4, does not contradict the available empirical data. The results of this study opens possibilities for scientifically substantiated calculations of greenhouse-gas exchange (specifically, CO2 exchange between the ocean and the atmosphere). 相似文献
3.
V. G. Polnikov F. A. Pogarskii G. S. Golitsyn 《Izvestiya Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics》2013,49(5):554-566
An analysis of the spatial and temporal variability of the field of mechanical energy transfer (MET) from the atmosphere into the ocean is based on a separate numerical simulation of evolution for the terms of source function for a wind-wave model conducted in the Indian Ocean area for the period 1998 to 2009. The MET field is described by two integral values calculated per unit area: the total rate of energy flux from the wind to waves, I E (x, t), and the rate of energy-loss flux for the wind waves, D E (x, t). To solve this problem, the wind field W(x, t) is used, downloaded from the NCEP/NOAA archive [1], and the fields I E (x, t) and D E (x, t) were calculated using the numerical model WAM [2] with the modified source function proposed in [3]. Maps for the fields I E (x, t) and D E (x, t) were obtained by calculations with different scales of the space-time averaging, extreme and average values of the MET were found, seasonal and interannual variability was estimated, and the 12-year trend for several mean quantities was obtained. 相似文献
4.
Paul A. Hwang 《Journal of Oceanography》2005,61(1):91-107
Depending on the choice of reference wind speed, the quantitative and qualitative properties of the drag coefficient may vary. On the ocean surface, surface waves are the physical roughness at the air-sea interface, and they play an important role in controlling the air-sea exchange processes. The degree of dynamic influence of surface waves scales with wavelength. Drag coefficient computed with the reference wind speed at an elevation proportional to the wavelength (for example, U
λ/2) is fundamentally different from the drag coefficient computed with the wind speed at fixed 10 m elevation (U
10). A comparison has been carried out to quantify the difference in wind stress computation using several different parameterization functions of the drag coefficient. The result indicates that the wind stress computed from U
10 input using a drag coefficient referenced to U
λ/2 is more accurate than that computed with drag coefficient functions referenced to U
10. 相似文献
5.
在实验室风浪水槽中进行纯风浪和混合浪波面位移观测,研究波长较长的规则波对风浪能量的影响.本文用混合浪和纯风浪中的风浪显著波的零阶谱矩之比代表混合浪中的风浪与纯风浪能量之比,并以此表征涌浪对风浪能量的影响.研究了该能量比随涌浪波陡S、风区x、波龄倒数u/C、涌浪频率与纯风浪谱峰频率之比fs/fwp的变化规律.结果表明,涌浪对风浪能量的抑制作用随涌浪波陡的增加、波龄倒数的增大及涌浪频率与纯风浪谱峰频率之比的增大而增强.发现该能量比依赖于无因次量R=(1+80(πS)2)1.9(fs/fwp)0.9(u/C)0.27,并拟合得到2者的经验关系.此外,本文实验还发现,在某些情况下,涌浪的存在使风浪能量增加. 相似文献
6.
The estimated characteristics of the atmospheric boundary layer, obtained by the simulation of wind wave fields using three versions of the WAM numerical model are compared with the well-known empirical dependences of drag coefficient C d on wind speed U 10 and wave age A, as well as with the dependence of dimensionless roughness height z n on inverse wave age u*/с р. Calculations carried out for several years in the areas of the Pacific and Indian oceans, based on the ERA-interim and CFSR wind reanalyses have shown good agreement between the model and empirical dependences C d (U 10) and C d (A). The range of estimated variability for z n (u*/с р ) has been found to be significantly less than empirical. It has been also found that estimated values of wind speed U 10W (t) are overestimated from 5 to 10% in all versions of WAM models compared with the input wind reanalysis U 10R (t) at the moments of appearance maximum values of wind U 10R (t). The reasons for the established features of the WAM model and their dependence on the model version are discussed. 相似文献
7.
8.
Paolo Boccotti 《Applied Ocean Research》1983,5(3):134-140
For wind waves modelled by a stationary Gaussian process ζ(t) (ζ = height above m.w.l. of one point of the free surface) it is shown that, in a time interval including an instant tm where a maximum ζm occurs, the ratio between ζ(t) and ζm tends with probability approaching one, to the ratio Ψ(t ? tm)/Ψ(O), as tends to infinity, Ψ(t) being the autocovariance of the process.Starting from this result, it is possible to find analytically the characteristic periods of the highest waves in a sea with a given energy spectrum. These periods, calculated according to period definitions of three methods of wave record analysis, are found to be in remarkably good agreement with data from Bretschneider1 and Svasek.2 相似文献
9.
Dependence of Whitecap Coverage on Wind and Wind-Wave Properties 总被引：13，自引：0，他引：13
10.
Hisashi Mitsuyasu 《Journal of Oceanography》2017,73(2):169-180
Wind and wind-generated waves were measured in a wind-wave tank. A clear transition was found in the relation between the wind speed U 10 and the wind friction velocity u * near u * = 0.2 m/s, where U 10 is the wind speed at 10 m height extrapolated from the measured wind profile in a logarithmic layer, and u * = 0.2 m/s corresponds roughly to U 10 = 8 m/s in the present measurement. Quite a similar transition was found in the relation between the spectral density of high frequency wind waves and u *. These results suggest the existence of the critical wind speed for air–sea boundary processes, which was proposed by Munk (J Marine Res 6:203–218, 1947) more than half a century ago. His original idea of the critical wind speed was based on the discontinuities in such phenomena as white caps, wind stress, and evaporation, which commonly appear at a wind speed near 7 m/s. On the basis of the results of our present study and those of earlier studies, we discuss the phenomena which are relevant to the critical wind speed for the air–sea boundary processes. The conclusion is that the critical wind speed exists and it is attributed to the start of wave breaking rather than the Kelvin–Helmholtz instability, but the air–sea boundary processes are not discontinuous at a particular wind speed; because of the stochastic nature of breaking waves, the changes occur over a range of wind speeds. Detailed discussions are presented on the dynamical processes associated with the critical wind speed such as wind-induced change of sea surface roughness and high frequency wave spectrum. Future studies are required, however, to clarify the dynamical processes quantitatively. In particular, there is a need to further examine the gradual change of breaking patterns of wind waves with the increase of wind speed, and the associated change of the structure of the wind over wind waves, such as separation of the airflow at the crest of wind waves, the turbulent stress, and wave-induced stress. Studies on the dynamical structure of the high frequency wave spectrum are also needed. 相似文献
11.
Mitsuhiko Hatori 《Journal of Oceanography》1984,40(1):1-11
Nonlinear properties of wind waves in a wind-wave tunnel are investigated by measuring the probability density distribution of surface elevation. The surface elevation distribution of raw records are found to have a positive skewness (K
3=0.21 to 0.43) and a negative kurtosis (K
4=–0.74 to –0.41) with magnitude depending of fetch and wind speed. The values of skewness are in qualitative agreement with a prediction of the weak interaction theory for a random wave field incorporating the effects of second harmonics (Tayfun, 1980), but the values of kurtosis are different in sign from the prediction.To examine the nonlinear properties of energy containing components, higher harmonic components are excluded from the wave records by using a kind of a band-pass filter. The surface elevation distributions of the filtered waves show a sharp decrease in skewness
, but the distributions remain highly non-Gaussian with a large negative kurtosis almost independent of the fetch and wind speed
. It is concluded that the negative kurtosis is due to the non-random character of the phase and amplitude among the energy containing components, and that nonlinear interactions occur amongst the energy containing frequencies. 相似文献
12.
Sanshiro Kawai 《Journal of Oceanography》1979,35(5):179-186
Observed critical wind speeds for the generation of wind waves are compared with those derived from a shear-flow instability theory. The theory predicts that the critical wind speed depends on the fetch and, for the case of infinite fetch, it is 93 cm s–1 at 30 cm above the mean water surface, which agrees well with observations at sufficiently large fetch. For water containing soap, the much larger critical wind speeds which are observed cannot be explained by the reduction of surface tension alone. A qualitative discussion suggests that the elasticity of surface films of soap can effectively increase the critical wind speed. 相似文献
13.
The microwave backscattering from wind-wave surfaces is observed in a windwave tunnel under various conditions of the wind and wind waves, and its statistical features are investigated. The dependence of the backscattered power on the wind speed and the incident angle shows similar features to those predicted by models proposed previously. However, the dependence of the backscattered power on the incident angles also corresponds to the asymmetrical feature of the wind-wave surfaces with respect to the wind direction. The spectral analyses of time series of the backscattered intensity show that the propagating speed of fine structures of the wind-wave surface contributing to the backscattering at large incident angles does not coincide with the phase speed of the freely propagating Braggwaves. Atupwind incidence, the surface structures of wind waves contributing to the backscattering propagates with the dominant waves at their phase speed. This result is inconsistent with the two-scale model in which the Bragg waves are simply superimposed on longer waves, but is consistent with the results of optical observation by Ebuchiet al. (1987). At downwind incidence, the propagating speed is slower than the phase speed of the dominant waves. 相似文献
14.
Kuniaki Okuda Sanshiro Kawai Masayuki Tokuda Yoshiaki Toba 《Journal of Oceanography》1976,32(2):53-64
Detailed observations were performed of the wind-exerted surface flow, before and after the generation of wind waves. As flow visualization techniques, 6 classes of polystyrene beads of from 0.33 mm to 1.93 mm in diameter, with a specific gravity of 0.99, and also, hydrogen bubble lines, were used. Experiments were carried out at three ranges of the wind speed: 4.0, 6.2 and 8.6ms–1 in the mean in the wind-wave tunnel section, and the observations were made at 2.85 m in fetch. In the case of 6.2 m s–1, when the initial surface skin flow attains 0.22 cm in the scale thickness and 16 cm s–1 in the surface velocity in about 3 second from the onset of the wind, regular waves of about 1.7 cm in wave length appear on the water surface. In one second after that, the downward thrust of the surface flow and the consequent forced convection commences, and the transition of the surface layer to a turbulent state occurs. Ordinary wind waves begin to develop from this state. In developed wind waves the viscous skin flow grows on the windward side of the crests, frequently producing macroscopic skin flows, and these skin flows converge to make a downward thrust at the lee side, and the viscous skin layer disappears there. The velocity of the downward flow has a maximum at the phase of about 30, and the value is of the order of 10 cm s–1 at 4-mm depth after the orbital velocity of the sinusoidal wave is subtracted. As the process through which the wind stress acts on the water surface, it is considered that the following particular one may be real: the skin friction concentrated at the windward side of the crest produces skin flows, which thrust into the inner region to make the forced convection, carrying the acquired momentum. The viscous shearing stress just before the generation of the surface undurations was about 1/4 of the total shearing stress under the existence of wind waves. It is considered that the increase of the wind stress by wind waves is caused by this mechanism. 相似文献
15.
The formation of a stationary (equilibrium) range in a wind-wave spectrum is investigated by numerical simulation. The equation of evolution of the wind-wave spectrum is solved using the exact calculation of the Hasselmann kinetic integral and involving various modifications of known parameterizations of the mechanisms of wave pumping by wind (In) and of wave dissipation (Dis). It is shown that it is these two mechanisms that are responsible for the shape of the stationary range of the wind-wave spectrum, whereas the nonlinear mechanism plays a stabilizing but subsidiary role. With an appropriate choice of mathematical representations for In and Dis, any known empirical shape of the stationary range of the spectrum can be obtained. During the calculations it is found that, for real wind waves, the known representations of In and Dis do not ensure the existence of the inertial interval required for Kolmogorov-type spectra formation due to the nonlinear interactions between waves. 相似文献
16.
Airy waves have a sinusoidal profile in deep water that can be modeled by a time series at any point x and time t, given by η(x,t) = (Ho/2) cos[2πx/Lo − 2πt/Tw], where Ho is the deepwater height, Lo is the deepwater wavelength, and Tw is the wave period. However, as these waves approach the shore they change in form and dimension so that this equation becomes invalid. A method is presented to reconstruct the wave profile showing the correct wavelength, wave height, wave shape, and displacement of the water surface with respect to the still water level for any water depth. 相似文献
17.
Naoto Ebuchi 《Journal of Oceanography》1999,55(5):575-584
By using wind vector fields observed by the NASA Scatterometer (NSCAT) and significant wave heights observed by the TOPEX/POSEIDON and European Remote Sensing Satellite-2 (ERS-2) altimeters, one-dimensional fetch growth of wind waves has been investigated under conditions of strong wind and high waves caused by the East Asian winter monsoon in the Sea of Japan. The evolution of fetch-limited wind waves can be observed by the altimeters along their ground tracks. The fetch is estimated by using vector wind fields observed by NSCAT. The derived growth characteristics of wind waves are compared with empirical relationships between the non-dimensional fetch and significant wave height proposed by previous studies. Good agreement is discernible with Toba's fetch graph formula normalized by the friction velocity, while Wilson's well-known formula normalized by the wind speed at a height of 10 m tends to underestimate the wave height under such severe conditions of high wind and very long fetch. This discrepancy is explained by the wind-speed dependence of the drag coefficient. A simple correction to Wilson's formula for the high wind conditions is proposed and compared with the observed data. 相似文献
18.
19.
《Ocean Modelling》2009,26(3-4):154-171
Ocean surface mixing and drift are influenced by the mixed layer depth, buoyancy fluxes and currents below the mixed layer. Drift and mixing are also functions of the surface Stokes drift Uss, volume Stokes transport TS, a wave breaking height scale Hswg, and the flux of energy from waves to ocean turbulence Φoc. Here we describe a global database of these parameters, estimated from a well-validated numerical wave model, that uses traditional forms of the wave generation and dissipation parameterizations, and covers the years 2003–2007. Compared to previous studies, the present work has the advantage of being consistent with the known physical processes that regulate the wave field and the air–sea fluxes, and also consistent with a very large number of in situ and satellite observations of wave parameters. Consequently, some of our estimates differ significantly from previous estimates. In particular, we find that the mean global integral of Φoc is 68 TW, and the yearly mean value of TS is typically 10–30% of the Ekman transport, except in well-defined regions where it can reach 60%. We also have refined our previous estimates of Uss by using a better treatment of the high frequency part of the wave spectrum. In the open ocean, Uss ≃ 0.013U10, where U10 is the wind speed at 10 m height. 相似文献
20.
When the nondimensional aerodynamic roughness parameter for the sea surface (gz
0/u
*
2,g being the acceleration of gravity,u
* the air friction velocity) is plotted as a function of the wave age, the data points in the diagram are distributed mostly in a triangle area between the Charnock formula and the Toba-Koga formula; the nondimensional roughness perameter is not expressed as a unique function of the wave age, but rather there seem to be multiple regimes. In order to investigate the cause of the data point scattering, a reanalysis was made of the 4.5-hour time series of the wind profile and wind-wave statistics which were obtained at an oceanographic tower station under the conditions of a winter monsoon wind having slightly fluctuating speed and steadily growing wind waves.It is concluded that the averaged variation ofz
0 is given by the Toba-Koga formula with a constant of value 0.015. However, as a result of the wind fluctuation on the time scales ranging from several minutes to an hour, data points show a conspicuous fluctuation on the nondimensional roughness parameter-wave age diagram in the direction transverse to the averaged variation. The variation inz
0 directly reflects the degree of over- or under-saturation in the high-frequency range of the wind-wave spectra. Physical interpretation of these variations is also presented. 相似文献