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1.
The long-term distribution of seabed shear stresses under random waves is presented. The approach combines short-term distribution of maximum bottom shear stresses with a joint frequency table of significant wave height and peak period. An example of application is given where the long-term probability of exceeding a given level of the maximum bottom shear stress in the central North Sea is presented. The example includes estimation of the return period of the critical shear stress for sheet flow conditions, as well as the bottom shear stresses associated with the 1, 10 and 100 years return periods. 相似文献
2.
Dag Myrhaug 《Coastal Engineering》1995,24(3-4)
The effect of random waves on the bottom friction is studied by assuming that the wave motion is a stationary Gaussian narrow-band random process. The approach is also based on simple explicit friction coefficient formulas for sinusoidal waves. The probability distribution functions of the maximum bottom shear stress for laminar flow as well as smooth turbulent and rough turbulent flow are presented. The maximum bottom shear stress follows the Rayleigh distribution for laminar flow and the Weibull distribution for smooth turbulent and rough turbulent flow. Some characteristic statistical values of the maximum bottom shear stress for the three flow regimes are also given. 相似文献
3.
《Coastal Engineering》2004,51(2):155-172
The bed load transport rate under random waves plus current has been predicted for a large range of wave–current conditions. A parameterized model valid for regular waves plus current has been used in Monte Carlo simulations, assuming the wave amplitudes to be Rayleigh distributed. The mean value, standard deviation and numerical estimates of the probability density function of the bed load transport rate are presented for a wide range of wave–current conditions. It appears that overall the effect of the current is dominating the bed load transport rate. Moreover, a significant scatter of the bed load transport rate under random waves plus current is found. Such a scatter is also found in field measurements by Amos et al. [J. Coast. Res. 15 (1999) 1]. Predicted ripple migration rates in the bed load regime have been compared with those obtained from field measurements by Amos et al. [J. Coast. Res. 15 (1999) 1], taking the bed load transport rate to be proportional to the ripple migration rate times the ripple height. Overall, the predictions capture the qualitative as well as the quantitative behaviour of the ripple migration rates in a wide range of wave–current conditions; the ripple migration rates, and thereby the bed load, are predicted within the correct order of magnitude for a wide range of wave–current conditions. 相似文献
4.
The effect of boundary layer streaming on the sea bed shear stresses, beneath random waves, is investigated for laminar flow as well as smooth turbulent flow. It is demonstrated how bottom friction formulas for regular waves can be used to obtain the bed shear stresses resulting from steady streaming under random waves. As a result, friction factors for steady streaming under random waves are provided, and the effect of streaming versus the effect of linear waves is discussed. For laminar flow the effect of second order Stokes waves is also included. Examples are included to illustrate the applicability of the present practical method, and results are obtained using data typical for field conditions. 相似文献
5.
This work presents a new approach for simulating the random waves in viscous fluids and the associated bottom shear stresses. By generating the incident random waves in a numerical wave flume and solving the unsteady two-dimensional Navier-Stokes equations and the fully nonlinear free surface boundaiy conditions for the fluid flows in the flume, the viscous flows and laminar bottom shear stresses induced by random waves axe determined. The deterministic spectral amplitude method implemented by use of the fast Fourier transform algorithm was adopted to generate the incident random waves. The accuracy of the numerical scheme is confirmed by comparing the predicted wave spectrum with the target spectrum and by comparing the nanlerical transfer function between the shear stress and the surface elevation with the theoretical transfer function. The maximum bottom shear stress caused by random waves, computed by this wave model, is compared with that obtained by Myrhaug＇ s model （1995）. The transfer function method is also employed to determine the maximum shear stress, and is proved accurate. 相似文献
6.
Wave and current experiments have been carried out with the purpose of measuring the instantaneous bed shear stress over a hydraulically smooth bed, in order to evaluate the extent of the interaction. Measurements have been carried out with a dual-component hot-film probe which, with some constraints, enables the magnitude and direction of the instantaneous bed shear stress to be measured. Results are presented as maximum obtained bed shear stress values over one cycle and the corresponding mean value in the direction of the current for various combinations of waves and current. 相似文献
7.
The aim of this paper is to present an analytical expression for the vertical distribution of the correlation between the horizontal (
) and vertical (
) wave velocity components. This quantity,
, which appears explicitly in the time-averaged momentum balance equations, has been shown to play an important role in the vertical distribution of wave-induced currents.The proposed formulation for
is based on an identity that relates the effective (wave) shear stress
to the effective (wave) normal stresses (
2 and
2) and to the vorticity of the oscillatory flow
gw. This general expression has been applied to simplified situations and has been shown to degenerate into other existing formulations with comparable simplifying assumptions, viz. irrotational waves in shallow water over an arbitrary bottom topography and breaking waves over a horizontal bottom.The model has also been applied to the case of waves interacting with a depth-varying current over a horizontal bottom, in which preliminary results have been obtained for a simplified situation invoking linear (small-amplitude) wave theory. 相似文献
8.
Instability analysis of three-dimensional ocean shear waves 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
Qiao Fangli 《海洋学报(英文版)》1996,15(1):1-8
Ｉｎｓｔａｂｉｌｉｔｙａｎａｌｙｓｉｓｏｆｔｈｒｅｅ－ｄｉｍｅｎｓｉｏｎａｌｏｃｅａｎｓｈｅａｒｗａｖｅｓ￥ＱｉａｏＦａｎｇｌｉ（ＲｅｃｅｉｖｅｄＮｏｖｅｍｂｅｒ６，１９９５，ａｃｃｅｐｔｅｄＮｏｖｅｍｂｅｒ３０．１９９５）Ａｂｓｔｒａｃｔ：Ｂａｓｅ... 相似文献
9.
Using an irregularly oscillating tray and flume,a series of experiments are completed to evaluate bed-load sediment transport rate under irregular wave-current coexistent fild.Testing conditions include three interaction angles 0°,45°,90° and two kinds of median sizes (0.38 and 1.10 mm).The results of transport rate show that the net sediment transport rate can be expressed approximately as the function of the maximum bottom shear stress of waves,mean shear stress of current and the grain size. 相似文献
10.
D. Myrhaug 《Ocean Engineering》1992,19(4)
The friction velocity associated with the maximum bottom shear stress in neutrally stable tidal planetary boundary layer flow is presented. The directions of the bottom shear stresses for the anticlockwise and clockwise rotating components are also presented. The results are obtained by using similarity theory and are given for flow conditions in the rough, smooth and transitional smooth-to-rough turbulent regime. An approximation for the maximum bottom shear stress by disregarding the rotation of the velocity in the boundary layer as the seabed is approached is also presented. 相似文献
11.
12.
磨刀门拦门沙区域枯季波流共同作用近底切应力和泥沙运动研究 总被引：2，自引：1，他引：1
On the basis of the measurement data pertaining to waves, current, and sediment in February 2012 in the mouth bar of the Modaomen Estuary, the Soulsby formulae with an iterative method are applied to calculating bottom shear stresses （BSS） and their effect on a sediment resuspension. Swell induced BSS have been found to be the most important part of the BSS. In this study, the correlation coefficient between a wavecurrent shear stress and SSC is 0.86, and that between current shear stresses and SSC is only 0.40. The peaks of the SSC are consistent with the height and the BSS of the swell. The swell is the main mechanism for the sediment re-suspension, and the tidal current effect on sediment re-suspension is small. The peaks of the SSC are centered on the high tidal level, and the flood tide enhances the wave shear stresses and the SSC near the bottom. The critical shear stress for sediment re-suspension at the observation station is between 0.20 and 0.30 N/m2. Tidal currents are too weak to stir up the bottom sediment into the flow, but a WCI （wave-current interaction） is strong enough to re-suspend the coarse sediment. 相似文献
13.
This paper provides a practical stochastic method by which the maximum equilibrium scour depth around a vertical pile exposed to long-crested (2D) and short-crested (3D) nonlinear random waves plus a current can be derived. The approach is based on assuming the waves to be a stationary narrow-band random process, adopting the Forristall (2000) wave crest height distribution representing both 2D and 3D nonlinear random waves, and using the empirical formulas for the scour depth by Sumer and Fredsøe (2002). Comparisons are made between the present approach and the Sumer and Fredsøe (2001) data for 2D random waves plus current. An example calculation is provided. 相似文献
14.
Direct measurements of bed shear stresses (using a shear cell apparatus) generated by non-breaking solitary waves are presented. The measurements were carried out over a smooth bed in laminar and transitional flow regimes (~ 104 < Re < ~ 105). Measurements were carried out where the wave height to water depth (h/d) ratio varied between 0.12 and 0.68; maximum near bed velocity varied between 0.16 m/s and 0.51 m/s and the maximum total shear stress (sum of skin shear stress and Froude–Krylov force) varied between 0.386 Pa and 2.06 Pa. The total stress is important in determining the stability of submarine sediment and in sheet flow regimes. Analytical modeling was carried out to predict total and skin shear stresses using convolution integration methods forced with the free stream velocity and incorporating a range of eddy viscosity models. Wave friction factors were estimated from skin shear stress at different instances over the wave (viz., time of maximum positive total shear stress, maximum skin shear stress and at the time of maximum velocity) using both the maximum velocity and the instantaneous velocity at that phase of the wave cycle. Similarly, force coefficients obtained from total stress were estimated at time of maximum positive and negative total stress and at maximum velocity. Maximum positive total shear stress was approximately 1.5 times larger than minimum negative total stress. Modeled and measured positive bed shear stresses are well correlated using the best convolution model, but the model underestimates the data by about 4%. Friction factors are dependent on the choice of normalizing using the maximum velocity, as is conventional, or the instantaneous velocity. These differ because the stress is not in phase with the velocity in general. Friction factors are consistent with previous data for monochromatic waves, and vary inversely with the square-root of the Reynolds number. The total shear stress leads the free stream fluid velocity by approximately 50°, whereas the skin friction shear stress leads by about 30°, which is similar to that reported by earlier researchers. 相似文献
15.
Experimental Study on the Bed Shear Stress Under Breaking Waves 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
The object of present study is to investigate the bed shear stress on a slope under regular breaking waves by a novel instrument named Micro-Electro-Mechanical System (MEMS) flexible hot-film shear stress sensor. The sensors were calibrated before application, and then a wave flume experiment was conducted to study the bed shear stress for the case of regular waves spilling and plunging on a 1:15 smooth PVC slope. The experiment shows that the sensor is feasible for the measurement of the bed shear stress under breaking waves. For regular incident waves, the bed shear stress is mainly periodic in both outside and inside the breaking point. The fluctuations of the bed shear stress increase significantly after waves breaking due to the turbulence and vortexes generated by breaking waves. For plunging breaker, the extreme value of the mean maximum bed shear stress appears after the plunging point, and the more violent the wave breaks, the more dramatic increase of the maximum bed shear stress will occur. For spilling breaker, the increase of the maximum bed shear stress along the slope is gradual compared with the plunging breaker. At last, an empirical equation about the relationship between the maximum bed shear stress and the surf similarity parameter is given, which can be used to estimate the maximum bed shear stress under breaking waves in practice. 相似文献
16.
The statistical distribution of wave orbital velocity in intermediate coastal water depth has been quantitatively determined from the comprehensive field velocity data collected near the seabed in this study. Two ocean ADV current meters, which were mounted at 0.5 m above the seabed on two separate stainless steel tripods sitting on the seabed, were used to measure instantaneous water particle velocities at a 2 Hz sampling rate for 17.07 min every hour in two coastal water depths of 11 m and 23 m in nine field deployments over a period of 2 years. The zero-crossing method is applied to analyse the field velocity data collected in each field deployment to obtain a large sample of wave orbital velocity amplitudes of individual waves. Based on the collected field velocity data, it is found that the histogram of instantaneous wave orbital velocities perfectly follows the Gaussian distribution as commonly assumed, while the histogram of wave orbital velocity amplitudes is less accurately described by the Rayleigh distribution than the modified Rayleigh and the Weibull distribution. It is also found that large orbital velocity amplitudes are generally overestimated by the Rayleigh distribution, but well predicted by the modified Rayleigh and the Weibull distribution. The expected value of maximum orbital velocity in a velocity record of finite size is also derived from the three distributions and found to agree well with the present field data. 相似文献
17.
The mechanisms for the generation of mean density and current velocity fields in a medium with a vertical shear, conditioned by the non-linearity of packets of internal waves are analysed. Modulation instability of internal waves is studied allowing for the earth's rotation. A non-linear Schrödinger's equation for the evolution of the envelope has been derived. Also corrections to the mean density and current velocity in the approximation, quadratic by the wave's amplitude, non-oscillating on the wave's time scale have been obtained. The longitudinal modulation conditions have been analysed.Translated by V. Puchkin. UDK 551.466.8. 相似文献
18.
实施人工岬角和海滩养护的软硬措施相结合的方法是探索解决海滩侵蚀问题的新举措之一。基于验证良好的水动力模型建立了泥沙输运和海床演变模型,对秦皇岛市新开河口至南山岸线海滩经整治修复工程实施后的泥沙输运和海床演变规律进行模拟分析。结果表明:大潮与常浪耦合作用下,研究区域周围海域流速整体上落急时刻大于涨急时刻,沙坝掩护水域的流速较弱,波浪在沙坝处增强并在沙坝后破碎并减弱;在沙坝处出现高悬沙浓度区域,悬沙浓度分布主要由底床切应力控制,部分受水动力影响。大潮与强浪耦合作用下,在沙坝处出现远大于常浪时的增强水流(波生流),方向与强浪向一致,波浪在沙坝处已破碎且沙坝对强浪的削减效率大于常浪;与常浪作用下不同,悬沙浓度场在强浪作用下沙坝处没有出现明显的高浓度区域。波流耦合作用下,人工岬角单独存在时护岸效果有限,工程实施后在人工岬角和人工沙坝的配合下,沙坝处侵蚀而沙坝后侧掩护区域淤积,沙坝起到了有效养护海滩的作用。 相似文献
19.
A study of SAR remote sensing of internal solitary waves in the north of the South China Sea:I.Simulation of internal tide transformation 总被引：2，自引：1，他引：1
For settlement of the well-known problem of contemporary radar imaging models,i.e.,the pmblem of a general underestimation of radar signatures of hydrodynamic features over oceanic internal waves and underwater bottom topography in tidal watels at at high radar frequency bands(X-band and C-band),the impact of the ocean surface mixed layer turbulence and the significance of strat-ified oceanic model on SAR remote sensing of internal solitary waves are proposed.In the north of the South China Sea by utilizing seme observed data of background field the nonlinearity coefficient,the dispersion coefficient,the horizontal variability coefficient and the phase speed in the generalized K-dV equation are determined approximately.Through simulations of internal tide transfor-mation the temporal evolution and spatial distribution of the vertical displacement and horizontal velocity of intereal wave field are obtained.The simulation results indicate that the maximum amplitudes of internal solitary waves occur at depth 35 m,but the maximum current speeds take place at depth 20 m in this area of the sea(about 20°30'N,114°E)in August.It was noticed that considering the effects of flood current and ebb current respectively is appropriate to investigate influence of the background shear flow on coefficients of the K-dV equation.The obtained results provide the possibility for the simulation of SAR signatures of inter-nal solitary waves under considering the impact of ocean surface mixed layer turbulence in the companion paper. 相似文献
20.
为准确把握新鹤海湾的演变特征和水动力条件,采用现场观测和GIS技术对其地形变化、冲淤分布和冲淤量进行探讨,并利用数值模拟分析波浪、潮流和泥沙共同作用对海湾演变的影响。结果表明:海湾演变对连续台风的响应不同,表现为先冲后淤,其中苏拉作用下的冲刷量为台风过境后全年的2倍左右;受东南季风的影响,春夏冲淤幅度较大,海湾冲淤分布为南冲北淤,波高分布不均与涨潮流入湾时的向北偏转是其主要原因;波流共同作用下的底床切应力约为潮流单独作用时的10倍,波浪是导致海湾冲刷的主要因素,常浪下底床切应力小于临界冲刷应力,泥沙不易起动,因此海湾冲刷主要是由极端天气时的大浪所导致的。 相似文献