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1.
The form, height and volume of coastal foredunes reflects the long‐term interaction of a suite of nearshore and aeolian processes that control the amount of sand delivered to the foredune from the beach versus the amount removed or carried inland. In this paper, the morphological evolution of more than six decades is used to inform the development of a simple computer model that simulates foredune growth. The suggestion by others that increased steepness of the seaward slope will retard sediment supply from the beach to the foredune due to development of a flow stagnation zone in front of the foredune, hence limiting foredune growth, was examined. Our long‐term data demonstrate that sediment can be transferred from the beach to the foredune, even with a steep foredune stoss slope, primarily because much of the sediment transfer takes place under oblique rather than onshore winds. During such conditions, the apparent aspect ratio of the dune to the oncoming flow is less steep and conditions are not as favourable for the formation of a stagnation zone. The model shows that the rate of growth in foredune height varies as a function of sediment input from the beach and erosion due to storm events, as expected, but it also demonstrates that the rate of growth in foredune height per unit volume increase will decrease over time, which gives the perception of an equilibrium height having been reached asymptotically. As the foredune grows in size, an increasing volume of sediment is needed to yield a unit increase in height, therefore the apparent growth rate appears to slow. Copyright © 2018 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

2.
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3.
Changes in wind speed and sediment transport are evaluated at a gap and adjacent crest of a 2 to 3 m high, 40 m wide foredune built by sand fences and vegetation plantings on a wide, nourished fine sand beach at Ocean City, New Jersey. Anemometer masts, cylindrical sand traps and erosion pins were placed on the beach and dune during two obliquely onshore wind events in February and March 2003. Results reveal that: (1) changes in the alongshore continuity of the beach and dune system can act as boundaries to aeolian transport when winds blow at an angle to the shoreline; (2) oblique winds blowing across poorly vegetated patches in the dune increase the potential for creating an irregular crest elevation; (3) transport rates and deflation rates can be greater within the foredune than on the beach, if the dune surface is poorly vegetated and the beach has not had time to dry following tidal inundation; (4) frozen ground does not prevent surface deflation; and (5) remnant sand fences and fresh storm wrack have great local but temporary effect on transport rates. Temporal and spatial differences due to sand fences and wrack, changes in sediment availability due to time‐dependent differences in surface moisture and frozen ground, combined with complex topography and patchy vegetation make it difficult to specify cause–effect relationships. Effects of individual roughness elements on the beach and dune on wind flow and sediment transport can be quantified at specific locations at the event scale, but extrapolation of each event to longer temporal and spatial scales remains qualitative. Copyright © 2006 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

4.
Coastal dunes are dynamic features that are continuously evolving due to constructive (e.g., wind- and wave-driven sediment transport) and destructive (e.g., elevated total water levels during storm events) processes. However, the relative importance of these processes in determining dune evolution is often poorly understood. In this study, ten lidar datasets from 1997 to 2016 are used to determine the relative role of erosion and accretion processes driving foredune change on the coast of Cape Lookout National Seashore, North Carolina, USA. Beach and dune morphometrics reveal that dune toe locations have generally retreated since 1997, while dune crest heights accreted by 0.01–0.02 m/year. We develop three univariate metrics that represent (1) the potential for erosion, i.e., total water level impact hours per year, (2) accretion, i.e., dune building hours per year, and (3) the relative net effect of foredune accretion and erosion processes, i.e., constructive–destructive dune forcing (CDDF) ratio, and test the correlative power of these metrics in explaining changes in foredune morphology. The total water level impact hours per year metric explained as much as 66% and 67% of the variance in dune crest and toe elevations, respectively, across the nearly two decades of dune evolution. The greatest number of dune building hours per year and largest dunes within the study site co-occurred at locations exposed to the dominant cross-shore wind direction as a result of varying shoreline orientation. The CDDF ratio was positively correlated to changes in the dune toe elevation in approximately 70% of dunes within the study site, outperforming the impact and dune building hours per year metrics. Our results show that these three metrics can provide first-order estimates of dune morphometric change across multiple spatial and temporal scales, which may be particularly useful at sites where lidar acquisition is intermittent.  相似文献   

5.
At Pedro Beach on the southeastern coast of Australia a series of foredune ridges provides an opportunity to explore the morphodynamic paradigm as it applies to coastal barrier systems using optically stimulated luminescence (OSL) dating, ground penetrating radar (GPR) and airborne LiDAR topography. A series of sandy dune-capped ridges, increasing in height seawards, formed from c. 7000 years ago to c. 3900 years ago. During this time the shoreline straightened as the embayment filled and accommodation space for Holocene sediments diminished. Calculation of Holocene sediment accumulation above mean sea level utilising airborne LiDAR topography shows a decline in average sediment supply over this time period coupled with a decrease in shoreline progradation rate from 1.2 m/yr to 0.38 m/yr. The average ridge ‘exposure lifetime’ during this period increases resulting in higher ridges as dune-forming processes have longer to operate. Increasing exposure to wave and wind energy also appears to have resulted in higher ridges as the sheltering effect of marginal headlands was diminished. An inherited disequilibrium shoreface profile will drive onshore accumulation of sandy sediments forming a prograded barrier; however, if there is no longer ‘accommodation space’ for sediment, this will be an overriding factor causing the cessation of progradation, as occurred c. 3900 years ago at Pedro Beach. Excess sediment in the nearshore zone after 3900 years ago may have been moved northward to nourish downdrift beaches in the compartment. A high outer foredune has formed through vertical accretion after 500 years ago, evidenced by GPR subsurface structures and OSL ages, with a distinct period of vertical and lee slope accretion and dated to the period 1890–1930 AD. The increased dune sediment transport resulting in foredune building is attributed to recent human disturbance. © 2018 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

6.
This paper documents application of an established geostatistical methodology to detect significant changes in a foredune–transgressive dune complex where Parks Canada Agency (PCA) implemented a dynamic restoration program to remove invasive marram grasses (Ammophila spp.) and enhance dynamic dune habitat for an endangered species. Detailed topographic surveys of a 10 320 m2 site in the Wickaninnish Dunes in Pacific Rim National Park, British Columbia, Canada for the first year post‐treatment are compared to a pre‐restoration LiDAR baseline survey. The method incorporates inherent spatial structure in measured elevation datasets at the sub‐landscape scale and models statistically significant change surfaces within distinct, linked geomorphic units (beach, foredune, transgressive dune complex). Seasonal and annual responses within the complex are discussed and interpreted. All geomorphic units experienced positive sediment budgets following restoration treatment. The beach experienced the highest differential volumetric change (+1656 m3) and net sediment influx (+834 m3, 0 · 19 m3 m–2) mostly from supply to the supratidal beach and incipient dune. This sediment influx occurred independent of the restoration effort and was available as a buffer against wave erosion and as supply to the landward dunes. The foredune received +200 m3 (0 · 13 m3 m‐2) and its seaward profile returned to a similar pre‐restoration form following erosion at the crest from vegetation removal and scarping by high water events. Sediment bypassing and minimal change was evident at the mid‐stoss slope with appreciable extension of depositional lobes in the lee. The transgressive dune complex experienced high accretion following restoration activity (+201 m3) and over the year (+284 m3, 0 · 07 m3 m–2) mostly from depositional lobes from the foredune, precipitation ridge growth along the downwind boundary, and growth of existing lobes within the complex. Further integration of this methodology to detect significant geomorphic changes is recommended, particularly for applications where sampling densities are limited or logistically defined. Copyright © 2013 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

7.
Studies of sediment transport on developed coasts provide perspective on how human adjustments alter natural processes. Deployment of sand‐trapping fences is a common adjustment that changes the characteristics of the dune ramp and its role in linking sediment transfers from the backshore to the foredune. Fence effects were evaluated in the field using anemometer arrays and vertical sediment traps placed across a beach and dune at Seaside Park, New Jersey, USA during onshore and longshore winds. The foredune is 18 m wide and 4.5 m above the backshore. The mean speed of onshore winds at 0.5 m elevation decreased by 17% from the berm crest to the upper ramp and 36% in the lee of a fence there. Sediment transport during mean wind speeds up to 8.0 m s?1 at 0.5 m elevation was < 0.06 kg m?1 h?1 on the berm crest and backshore where fetch distances were < 45 m and surface sediment was relatively coarse (0.74–0.85 mm) but increased to 5.63 kg m?1 h?1 on the upper ramp aided by the longer fetch distances (up to 82 m) and finer grain size of the source sediment there (0.52 mm). Sediment transport along the berm crest and backshore during longshore winds, where fetch distances were > 200 m, was up to 58.69 kg m?1 h?1, about three orders of magnitude greater than during the onshore winds. Fences can displace the toe of the ramp farther seaward than would occur under natural conditions. They can create a gentler slope and change the shape of the ramp to a more convex form. A fence on the ramp can cut off a portion of sediment supply to the upper slope. Decisions about fence placement thus should consider these morphologic changes in addition to the effects on dune volume. Copyright © 2017 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

8.
Near‐surface airflow over a morphologically simple, vegetated, 8 m high foredune with a small wave‐cut scarp was measured for onshore to oblique‐onshore conditions during a low‐moderate (5–6 m s‐1 ) wind event and a high velocity (11–18 m s‐1) sand‐transporting gale event. Flow across the foredune was characterized by significant flow compression and acceleration up and across the foredune during both events. During the gale, a pronounced jet (speed bulge) developed at the foredune crest, which increased in magnitude with increasing wind speed. The vertical (W) velocity component of the 3D flow field was positive (upwards) across the stoss slope under low wind conditions but negative (downwards) during gale wind conditions, with upslope acceleration. During the low velocity event, there was speed‐down within the vegetation canopy, as would be expected for a porous roughness cover. During the strong wind event there was speed‐up in the lower portion of the vegetation canopy, and this was found up the entire stoss slope. Sediment transport during the gale force event was substantial across the beach and foredune despite the moderate vegetation cover and minimum fetch. Aeolian suspension was evident in the lee of the dune crest. The observations presented herein show that strong storm winds are an effective mechanism for translating sediment landwards across a high vegetated foredune, contributing sediment to the stoss slope, crest and leeward slopes of the foredune and backing dunes. Copyright © 2013 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

9.
Sediment transport and short‐term morphologic change were evaluated at a site where sand fences are deployed and the beach is raked (Managed Site) and a site where these human adjustments are not practiced (Unmanaged Site). Data were gathered across the seaward portion of a low foredune when winds blew nearly shore‐normal at mean speeds 8.9 to 9.3 m s‐1. Data from traps revealed sediment transport rates at unvegetated portions of the foredune crest (40.2 to 43.5 kg m‐1 h‐1) were greater than on the backshore (4.9 to 11.2 kg m‐1 h‐1) due to onshore decreases in surface moisture and speed‐up of the wind passing over the foredune. Data from erosion pins indicate sediment input to the dune was 1.48 m3 m‐1 alongshore at the Managed Site and 1.25 m3 m‐1 at the Unmanaged Site. The Unmanaged Site had deposition at the dune toe, erosion at mid‐slope, and deposition at the crest. Deposition occurred at mid‐slope on the Managed Site near a partially buried (0.58 m high) fence with a porosity of about 65%. Deposition at partially buried wrack on the upper backshore and dune toe at the Unmanaged Site was about twice as great as deposition in this zone at the Managed Site. Results indicate that: (1) the seaward slope of the foredune can be a more important source of sand to the lee of the crest than the beach; (2) wrack near the toe can decrease transport into the foredune; (3) a scour zone can occur on the foredune slope above the wrack line; (4) a fence placed in this location can promote deposition and offset scour, but fences can restrict delivery of sediment farther inland. Evaluation of alternative configurations of fences and strategies for managing wrack is required to better determine the ways that humans modify foredunes. Copyright © 2012 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

10.
The behaviour of offshore‐directed winds over coastal dune and beach morphology was examined using a combination of modelling (3‐D computational fluid dynamics (CFD)) and field measurement. Both model simulations and field measurements showed reversal of offshore flows at the back beach and creation of an onshore sediment transport potential. The influence of flow reversals on the beach‐dune transport system and foredune growth patterns has previously received little attention. Detailed wind flow measurements were made using an extensive array of mast‐mounted, 3‐D ultrasonic anemometers (50 Hz), arranged parallel to the dominant incident wind direction. Large eddy simulation (LES) of the offshore wind flow over the dune was conducted using the open‐source CFD tool openFOAM. The computational domain included a terrain model obtained by airborne LiDAR and detailed ground DGPS measurements. The computational grid (~22 million cells) included localized mesh refinement near the complex foredune terrain to capture finer details of the dune morphology that might affect wind flows on the adjacent beach. Measured and simulated wind flow are presented and discussed. The CFD simulations offer new insights into the flow mechanics associated with offshore winds and how the terrain steering of wind flow impacts on the geomorphological behaviour of the dune system. Simulation of 3‐D wind flows over complex terrain such as dune systems, presents a valuable new tool for geomorphological research, as it enables new insights into the relationship between the wind field and the underlying topography. The results show that offshore and obliquely offshore winds result in flow reversal and onshore directed winds at distances of up to 20 m from the embryo dune toe. The potential geomorphological significance of the findings are discussed and simple calculations show that incoming offshore and obliquely offshore winds with mean velocities over 13 m s?1 and 7 m s?1, respectively, have the potential to create onshore‐directed winds at the back beach with mean velocities above 3.3 m s?1. These are above the threshold of movement for dry sand and support previous conclusions about the significance of offshore winds in dune and beach budget calculations. Copyright © 2011 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

11.
This commentary brings together, as a Virtual Special Issue, several recent papers in Earth Surface Processes and Landforms that improve our understanding of coastal barrier response to relative sea level rise and a change in the frequency and/or magnitude of storm events. The ability to predict barrier response depends on the ability to quantify the spatial and temporal scales of sediment exchange amongst the nearshore, beach and dune. This exchange controls the height of the dune, which in turn determines the transfer of sediment to the backbarrier through washover and/or blowouts. The papers in this issue provide new insight on beach–dune interaction and the importance of this interaction to long‐term barrier evolution across a range of sites and scales, and how active management can influence this interaction and alter barrier response. Copyright © 2018 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

12.
This paper examines patterns of foredune vegetation along an embayment in southern Brazil and the relationships between variations in percent cover and diversity, and environmental factors such as beach/surfzone type and exposure to wind and wave energy. The study was conducted on Moçambique Beach, Brazil, which displays significant alongshore variations in exposure to the prevailing winds and waves, beach/surfzone morphodynamic type, type and dimensions of the dune systems and foredune vegetation cover and diversity. Two vegetation surveys were carried out in contiguous 1 m2 quadrats across the foredune. The presence/absence, percent cover of the species, diversity and similarity between the vegetation of the profiles surveyed and their relation with environmental conditions are examined. The results show that the vegetation cover decreases from south to north, possibly reflecting the increasing exposure to wind and wave energy. Distinct patterns of species distributions occur along Moçambique beach, such that different plant species are dominant on the southern, middle and northern ends of the beach. A cluster analysis demonstrated two associations: the first one is represented by the profiles located in the lower energy zone of the beach, and the second association is represented by the profiles more exposed to wind and wave energy, sediment deposition and salt spray. The diversity of species decreases northwards, possibly influenced by the surfzone type, number of breaking waves and degree of aeolian transport. The presence/absence of the species and the vegetation cover on the foredune reflect the varying levels of exposure of the beach and foredune to the winds and waves and also reflect the volume of sediment deposition on the foredune and the beach mobility determined by the morphodynamic beach/surfzone type. Copyright © 2008 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

13.
The Oceano Dunes near Pismo Beach, California is part of a large transgressive dune system that extends up to 5 km inland and hosts a state park that has been managed for off-highway vehicle recreation since 1982, although vehicle activity has existed in the dunes for almost 90 years. As a result, foredunes have been largely obliterated and sand surfaces in vehicle use areas are highly emissive of dust-sized particles, causing frequent exceedances of state air quality standards. To reduce dust emissions from the dunes, a nature-based foredune restoration strategy using five different treatments over a 20-ha site was implemented in February 2020. The research hypothesis is that treatments will differ in their ability to promote deposition and dune development and that more intensive planting-based treatments will outperform simpler treatments. We test this using biannual high-resolution uncrewed aerial system (UAS) surveys to quantify sediment budgets, sand exchanges between beach, foredune, and backdune components, changes in plant cover, and related dune development over a 2-year period (October 2019–2021). After two full wind and plant-growth seasons, results show that all treatments are maintaining a positive sediment budget (net accumulation), most are developing sizable nebkha dunes (an important stage in foredune development in this region), and some are increasing plant cover and species richness. There is no clear winner, yet two treatments (broadcast native plant and sterile grass seeds, and a high-density straw planting node with native seedlings) are performing well toward developing an incipient foredune. These results will inform an adaptive management process that could entail further modifications to enhance foredune development. Based on this experience, and with reference to other types of restoration projects, we refine existing criteria used to assess the performance of “dynamic” dune restoration efforts to include settings that involve revegetation (vs. devegetation) as a means for foredune re-establishment.  相似文献   

14.
The complex morphodynamic interactions between nearshore, shoreface and dune systems are usually simplified by studying these zones and their associated processes in isolation. However, the established relationships between each of them suggests that an integrated approach is required to examine the genesis, evolution and adaptation of the entire morphodynamic system. The Cabopino dune system in the southern Spanish Mediterranean Sea provides a clear example of a linked morphodynamic system in which a relatively large dune system has been generated and grown through the supply of sediments from an adjacent littoral supply environment. Here, we present a conceptual model of how the nearshore has provided suitable conditions for beach and dune development. We purport that synchronization of sediment activation in the marine and aeolian sections of the system have played a major role in this microtidal setting in which temporal aspects are not only tied to storm action, but to large sedimentary features moving alongshore. © 2019 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

15.
This study examines the spatial distribution of wind speed across a coastal dune system located at Jockey's Ridge State Park, North Carolina. The study area consists of a trough blowout through a foredune ridge, and the landforms that have developed behind the foredune. Wind speed and direction were measured simultaneously with single sensors placed at a fixed height in 13 locations across the blowout/dune complex. Fractional wind speed‐up is computed for sampling stations using data from a mast located on the beach as the reference. Results show that wind speeds were generally accelerated across the study site. The highest speeds were recorded on the foredune ridges adjacent to the blowout. Wind was accelerated through the center of the blowout throat and along the downwind lateral wall. Further into the blowout, at the base of the ramp to the depositional lobe, higher wind speeds shifted to the upwind lateral wall and continued to accelerate up the ramp as air exited to the rear. Significant variations in the wind speed‐up pattern were associated with different wind approach angles, with greater speed‐up occurring when the winds were aligned normal to the dune system. The speed‐up decreased as the angle of approach became increasingly oblique to the ridge. The patterns of wind speed‐up across the site point to the influence of topography on airflow. To quantify the relationship, measures of several topographic variables were obtained along sample transects running upwind from each sample station along flow lines representing different wind approach angles. Examination of correlation coefficients between wind speed‐up and topographic variables suggests that for groups of stations with similar topographic characteristics, 30–50% of the variations in speed‐up may be explained by the upwind topographic variability. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

16.
For development of embryo dunes on the highly dynamic land–sea boundary, summer growth and the absence of winter erosion are essential. Other than that, however, we know little about the specific conditions that favour embryo dune development. This study explores the boundary conditions for early dune development to enable better predictions of natural dune expansion. Using a 30 year time series of aerial photographs of 33 sites along the Dutch coast, we assessed the influence of beach morphology (beach width and tidal range), meteorological conditions (storm characteristics, wind speed, growing season precipitation, and temperature), and sand nourishment on early dune development. We examined the presence and area of embryo dunes in relation to beach width and tidal range, and compared changes in embryo dune area to meteorological conditions and whether sand nourishment had been applied. We found that the presence and area of embryo dunes increased with increasing beach width. Over time, embryo dune area was negatively correlated with storm intensity and frequency. Embryo dune area was positively correlated with precipitation in the growing season and sand nourishment. Embryo dune area increased in periods of low storm frequency and in wet summers, and decreased in periods of high storm frequency or intensity. We conclude that beach morphology is highly influential in determining the potential for new dune development, and wide beaches enable development of larger embryo dune fields. Sand nourishment stimulates dune development by increasing beach width. Finally, weather conditions and non‐interrupted sequences of years without high‐intensity storms determine whether progressive dune development will take place. Copyright © 2017 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

17.
Wind characteristics and aeolian transport were measured on a naturally evolving beach and dune and a nearby site where the beach is raked and sand‐trapping fences are deployed. The beaches were composed of moderately well sorted to very well sorted fine to medium sand. The backshore at the raked site was wider and the foredune was more densely vegetated and about 1 m higher than at the unraked site. Wind speeds were monitored using anemometers placed at 1 m elevation and sand transport was monitored using vertical traps during oblique onshore, alongshore and offshore winds occurring in March and April 2009. Inundation of the low backshore through isolated swash channels prevented formation of a continuously decreasing cross‐shore moisture gradient. The surface of the berm crest was dryer than the backshore, making the berm crest the greatest source of offshore losses during offshore winds. The lack of storm wrack on the raked beach reduced the potential for sediment accumulation seaward of the dune crest during onshore winds, and the higher dune crest reduced wind speeds and sediment transport from the dune to the backshore during offshore winds. Accretion at wrack seaward of the dune toe on the unraked beach resulted in a wider dune field and higher, narrower backshore. Although fresh wrack is an effective local trap for aeolian transport, wrack that becomes buried appears to have little effect as a barrier and can supply dry sand for subsequent transport. Aeolian transport rates were greater on the narrower but dryer backshore of the unraked site. Vegetation growth may be necessary to trap sand within zones of buried wrack in order to allow new incipient foredunes to evolve. Copyright © 2010 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

18.
Wind flow and sand transport intensity were measured on the seaward slope of a vegetated foredune during a 16 h storm using an array of sonic anemometers and Wenglor laser particle counters. The foredune had a compound seaward slope with a wave‐cut scarp about 0.5 m high separating the upper vegetated portion from the lower dune ramp, which was bare of vegetation. Wind direction veered from obliquely offshore at the start of the event to obliquely onshore during the storm peak and finally to directly onshore during the final 2 h as wind speed dropped to below threshold. Sand transport was initially inhibited by a brief period of rain at the start of the event but as the surface dried and wind speed increased sand transport was initiated over the entire seaward slope. Transport intensity was quite variable both temporally and spatially on the upper slope as a result of fluctuating wind speed and direction, but overall magnitudes were similar over the whole length. Ten‐minute average transport intensity correlates strongly with mean wind speed measured at the dune crest, and there is also strong correlation between instantaneous wind speed and transport intensity measured at the same locations when the data are smoothed with a 10 s running mean. Transport on the beach for onshore winds is decoupled from that on the seaward slope above the small scarp when the wind angle is highly oblique, but for wind angles <45° from shore perpendicular some sand is transported onto the lower slope. Copyright © 2012 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

19.
Evidence from a field study on wind flow and sediment transport across a beach–dune system under onshore and offshore conditions (including oblique approach angles) indicates that sediment transport response on the back‐beach and stoss slope of the foredune can be exceedingly complex. The upper‐air flow – measured by a sonic anemometer at the top of a 3·5 m tower located on the dune crest – is similar to regional wind records obtained from a nearby meteorological station, but quite different from the near‐surface flow field measured locally across the beach–dune profile by sonic anemometers positioned 20 cm above the sand surface. Flow–form interaction at macro and micro scales leads to strong modulation of the near‐surface wind vectors, including wind speed reductions (due to surface roughness drag and adverse pressure effects induced by the dune) and wind speed increases (due to flow compression toward the top of the dune) as well as pronounced topographic steering during oblique wind approach angles. A conceptual model is proposed, building on the ideas of Sweet and Kocurek (Sedimentology 37 : 1023–1038, 1990), Walker and Nickling (Earth Surface Processes and Landforms 28 : 111–1124, 2002), and Lynch et al. (Earth Surface Processes and Landforms 33 : 991–1005, 2008, Geomorphology 105 : 139–146, 2010), which shows how near‐surface wind vectors are altered for four regional wind conditions: (a) onshore, detached; (b) onshore‐oblique, attached and deflected; (c) offshore, detached; and (d) offshore‐oblique, attached and deflected. High‐frequency measurements of sediment transport intensity during these different events demonstrate that predictions of sediment flux using standard equations driven by regional wind statistics would by unreliable and misleading. It is recommended that field studies routinely implement experimental designs that treat the near‐surface wind field as comprising true vector quantities (with speed and direction) in order that a more robust linkage between the regional (upper air) wind field and the sediment transport response across the beach–dune profile be established. Copyright © 2012 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

20.
Submarine dune dynamics are controlled by tidal currents and wind forces. According to the relative influence of these forces and the nature of dune sediment, different bedform behaviors can be observed. The footprint of the different hydrodynamic agents is recorded into the internal architecture of dunes. This paper is concerned with bedforms that compose the thick sediment wedge located in the eastern English Channel, off the Bay of Somme. This sedimentary archive constitutes an interesting feature to achieve a better understanding of seabed sediment dynamics and its timeline building stages. The dynamics of large submarine dunes, which are organized in fields, are studied thanks to bathymetric and seismic data over the periods 1937–1993 and 1993–2007. Dune morphology presents low lee and stoss side slopes (on average 8° and 3°, respectively) and dune migration rate is not very high. Dune movements are in the direction of residual tidal currents, i.e. toward the east, with mean migration rates around 0·8 to 5 ± 0·25 m yr?1 and up to 6·6 ± 0·7 m yr?1, respectively, at multi‐decennial and decennial time scales. The dune internal architecture is complex with superimposed eastward prograding units, displaying locally opposite progradation. Second‐order discontinuities (dip of 0·5°–4° perpendicular to dune crests) constitute dune master bedding. By counting the number of second‐order reflectors between 1937–1993 and 1993–2007, the formation periodicity of these bounding surfaces is estimated to range from 4 to 18 years. These time intervals coincide with the long‐term tidal cyclicities and also with the inter‐annual to decennial variability of storm activity in northern Europe. Two theories were made to interpret the dune internal structures: the second‐order surfaces are interpreted either as the depositional surfaces corresponding to the marks of weak energy periods (weak tidal and storm action), or as erosive surfaces due to an opposite direction of dune migration provoked temporarily by exceptional storms from the northeast. Copyright © 2010 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

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