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1.
Transforming wave heights from offshore to the shoreline is the first step of any coastal engineering work. Wave breaking is analyzed to understand hydrodynamic conditions. For vertical breakwaters and sea walls, wave reflection is an important process that affects the determination of the wave height. Many of the design formulas presented in the literature depend on empirical studies based on the structures tested. In this study, the hydrodynamic conditions in front of a vertical wall with an overhanging horizontal cantilever slab with a foreshore slope of 1/20 are determined experimentally under regular wave conditions to assess the applicability of the formulas of Goda (2000) for predicting the nearshore wave height and breaker index equation (Goda, 2010). The selection of wave measurements used to determine the design wave height, the reflection coefficients, and wave breaking is also analyzed, and the reflection equations are derived from the dataset covering different breaker types. Small-scale tests show that the incident wave height is a good representative of the design wave height and that the values predicted by Goda are in good agreement with actual measurements. However, the predicted Hmax values are overestimated. In addition, the inception of the wave breaking point is postponed because of the reflection and/or turbulence left over from preceding waves, which is an effect of the vertical wall. At higher water levels, the effect of the vertical wall on the inception point becomes more significant.  相似文献   

2.
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3.
IGGGRACE01S模型确定的海面地形和地转流   总被引：3，自引：2，他引：1  
用IGGGRACE01S、EIGENGRACE02S和EGM96地球重力场模型的前80阶分别计算出全球大地水准面,再与多颗测高卫星资料得到的平均海面高模型KMS04差分,构制出3种海面地形,并计算出相应的地转流。与Williams绘制的全球主要海流结果相比,不难看出,重力场模型IGGGRACE01S、EIGENGRACE02S的结果能清晰地显示出大尺度海洋地转流,而EGM96模型结果在赤道地带不明显。上述结果不仅显示了GRACE地球重力场模型IGGGRACE01S和EIGENGRACE02S具有较高精度探测地转流的能力,而且也表明了它们的长波精度优于EGM96模型,从应用角度展示了GRACE结果的有效性。  相似文献   

4.
Three- dimension (3-D) wind-driven currents in the Bohai Sea in both winter and summer are calculated by using a 3- D barotropic steady model, and the results are consistent with observed flow char -acteristics. Based on the results, 3- D characteristics of flow, currents at different depths, compensated flow in the lower layer , long and narrow alongshore current, the area of upwelling and downwelling, main circulation in vertical profile, and the current in Bohai Strait are discussed.  相似文献   

5.
The northern South China Sea(SCS) is frequently affected by typhoons. During severe storm events, wave-current interactions produce storm surges causing enormous damage in the path of the typhoon. To evaluate the influence of wave-current interactions on storm surge, we used a coupled ocean-atmospherewave-sediment transport(COAWST) modeling system with radiation-stress and vortex-force formulations to simulate two typically intense tropical storms that invaded the SCS, namely Typhoons Nuri(2008) and Hagupit(2008), and compared results with observations from the Hong Kong Observatory. Both radiationstress and vortex-force formulations significantly improved the accuracy of the simulation. Depending on which typhoon and the topography encountered, the influence of surface waves on the oceanic circulation showed different characteristics, including the differences of range and intensity of storm surge between vortex-force and radiation-stress experiments. During typhoon landing, strong sea-surface elevation in concert with wave set-up/set-down caused the adjustment of the momentum balance. In the direction perpendicular to the current, but especially in the cross-shore direction, the pressure gradient and wave effects on the current dominated the momentum balance.  相似文献   

6.
Observations of current velocity, pressure, and temperature in the eastern Yellow Sea during January 10 to April 12, 1986, and geostrophic winds calculated from surface pressure distributions, are analyzed for a study of the synoptic band response of the Yellow Sea to the wintertime winds. Currents in shallow coastal waters along a straight portion of the coast are mostly downwind to the south. Along the northern coast sheltered by a large bay, the current is persistently northward. This could be the result of a domination by geostrophic currents associated with an offshore-directed density gradient which is known to form in areas around this location. In the Yellow Sea trough, strong upwind flows are found to follow closely surges in the north wind. Co-spectral analyses show that these events are driven by a longitudinal pressure gradient associated with the sea-level set-up along the west coast of South Korea under a prevailing north wind.  相似文献   

7.
1　Introduction　Thesub inertialcirculationincoastalembaymentanditsexchangewiththeopenshelfwaterscanhaveimportantenvironmentconsequences .AnexampleofsuchasystemisJervisBay ,asmallsemi closedembay mentlocatedontheEastCoastofAustralia .Thebayisapproximately 15kmlongand 8kmwidewithanareaof 12 4km2 .Theaverageddepthofthebayis 15mandisconnectedtothecontinentalshelfthroughanopeningwhichis 3.75kmwideand 4 0mdeep (Fig.1) .Theadjacentcontinentalshelfgraduallyincreasesitsdepthto 12 0mwithinadistanceo…  相似文献   

8.
The spatial structure and variation of the upwelling in the waters east and northeast of Hainan Island, China during 2000-2007 were investigated using a nested high-resolution Princeton Ocean Model (POM) forced by QuikSCAT winds. The model produced good simulations of the summer upwelling and the seasonal and annual variability. Strong upwelling occurs from mid-July to mid-August with a peak east of Hainan Island associated with the southwesterly monsoon in the South China Sea. Sensitivity experiments indicated that when the local wind stress controls the variability of the upwelling, the large-scale circulation significantly enhances the upwelling northeast of Hainan Island by inducing a local upwelling and transporting cold water northeast-ward along the island’s east coast. The joint effects of the local wind stress and large-scale circulation result in stronger upwelling northeast of Hainan Island. This implies that the annual variation of the upwelling northeast of Hainan Island is controlled not only by the local alongshore wind stress but also by the large-scale circulation. This result will help us investigate the decadal variation of the upwelling in this region in the future.  相似文献   

9.
The northern South China Sea(NSCS) is a dynamically complex region whose shelf and slope currents are driven by different mechanisms. In this study, we used field measurements to identify clear interannual variations in the circulation related to the El Ni?o-Southern Oscillation cycle. To investigate the modulation mechanisms, we used a high-resolution numerical model that covers the shelf and slope regions of the NSCS. The results indicate that the stronger southwestward slope current during La Ni?a and stronger northeastward shelf current during El Ni?o in summer and winter are largely related to changes in wind forcing. The Kuroshio intrusion into the NSCS does not appear to significantly affect the circulation in the southwestern shelf region.  相似文献   

10.
水库滑坡约束条件影响其运动过程的几何形态, 是滑坡涌浪预测的重要参数之一。为了探究约束条件对滑坡涌浪特征(波高、波幅与周期)的影响, 采用正交试验设计法开展了54组滑坡涌浪室内模型试验, 并基于统计学理论对约束散体和半约束散体的涌浪特征进行了分析。结果表明: 涌浪波周期基本不受滑体约束条件的影响; 而半约束散体模型的波高和波幅小于约束散体的波高和波幅, 半约束散体的初始涌浪波高约为约束散体的0.95倍, 半约束散体模型的最大波峰波幅约为约束散体模型的0.9倍。因此, 在开展滑坡涌浪快速预测时, 虽然滑体入水形态与破坏前形态差异巨大, 但基于滑坡初始几何形态参数对其初始涌浪波高和最大涌浪波幅的预测结果是偏安全的。研究结论可以为更准确地预测水库滑坡涌浪提供理论依据。   相似文献   

11.
Data taken in two large scale ocean observations in China in summer 1959 and 1982 were used to analyze the residual current off the Changjiang (Yangtze) River mouth. The currents at surface off the mouth in July 1959 and 1982 flow northeastward and eastward due to the river discharge, the current speed was larger in 1982 than in 1959. All the bottom currents flow landward due to baroclinic effect. The surface current was controlled by the river runoff and the Taiwan Warm Current (TWC). A return current at surface off the mouth was observed in September 1959. In general, the bottom currents were controlled by the TWC in most study area in addition to the runoff near the mouth. Although driven by 3-D model with the monthly averaged forces (river discharge, wind stress, baroclinic effect, open boundary water volume flux and tidal mixing) in August, the simulated circulations were basically consistent with the observed ones with episodic time manner.  相似文献   

12.
Based on the Navier-Stokes Equations (NSE), numerical simulation with fine grids is conducted to simulate the coastal surface wave changes, including wave generation, propagation, transformation and interactions between waves and structures. This numerical model has been tested for the generation of the desired incident waves, including both regular and random waves. Some numerical results of this model are compared with available experimental data. In order to apply this model to actual cases, boundary conditions are considered in detail for different shoreline types (beach or breakwater, slope or vertical wall, etc. ). Finally, the utility of the model to a real coastal area is shown by applying it to a fishing port located in Shidao, Rongcheng, Shandong Province, P.R. China.  相似文献   

13.
The formulation and justification of a three-layer baroclinic ocean model developed to simulate thegeneral circulation of the ocean are described in this paper.Test of the model in simulating the annualmean circulation patterns in the North Pacific under the prescribed atmospheric forcing,which consists ofthe climatological surface wind stress and sea surface heat flux,and comparison of the results withobservations showed that the model basically simulated the large scale features of the annual meancirculation patterns in the North Pacific Ocean such as those of the intensified western boundary currentsand the North Equatorial Currents and Undercurrents.But due to the coarse resolution of the model,some details of these currents were poorly reproduced.The seasonal variations of the North Pacific Oceancirculation driven by the seasonal mean sea surface wind stress was calculated,the different aspects of theseresults were analyzed and the main current(the intensified western boundary currents)transports we  相似文献   

14.
Long waves such as tsunamis can be trapped by islands due to wave refraction, and these trapped waves will cause huge damage even in the sheltered shoreline of the island. That all waves propagating into the topography and finally reaching the coastline are called perfect trapped modes, while any waves escaping from the topography are called leaky modes. Whether these long waves can be trapped is dependent on the depth profile of the island. This paper presents analytic solutions of the ray path for waves propagating into the circular island with power function profiles. Wave height distributions over the island are further investigated based on the principia that crowded rays correspond to large wave height and sparse rays correspond to small wave height. The trapped mechanism for water waves over the island is revealed based on their ray paths. Furthermore, the perfectly trapped criterion is derived, that is, when the slope gradient at the topography toe is greater than twice the ratio of the water depth to the radial distances, all wave rays propagating on the island will finally reach the coastline, and the waves are perfectly trapped.  相似文献   

15.
The abyssal circulation in the Philippine Sea(PS)is investigated,with outputs from the Simple Ocean Data Assimilation version 2.2.4(SODA224).The deep-water currents in SODA224 are carefully evaluated,with sparse in situ observations in the North Pacific Ocean.In the upper deep layer(20003000 m)of the PS,a strong westward current,which originates from the Northeast Pacific Basin and enters the PS through the Yap-Mariana Junction,exists along 1114 N.This strong westward current bifurcates into two western boundary currents off the Philippines.The northward-flowing current flows out of the PS around 2021 N,whereas the southward-flowing current transports deep water from the northern hemisphere to the southern hemisphere.In the lower deep layer(30004500 m),the inflow water first flows northward to the east of the Western Mariana Basin and then turns westward at approximately 18 N.The inflow water mainly enters the Philippine Basin(PB),with a small part turning southward to constitute a weak cyclonic circulation.The water entering the PB mainly merges into a strong southward western boundary current in the south-ern PB.In the bottom layer(below 4500 m),both the northeast and northwest PB show single cyclonic gyres,whereas the south PB shows a single anticyclonic gyre.Moreover,comparisons with the observations indicate the possible existence of a cyclonic sense of circulation over the Philippine Trench.The current study provides the implications for future observations,which are needed to fur-ther investigate the temporospatial variations of the abyssal circulation in the PS on multiple scales.  相似文献   

16.
Dynamic response analysis of a floating mooring system   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  
An innovative floating mooring system with two or more independent floating mooring platforms in the middle and one rigid platform on each side is proposed for improving efficiency and safety in shallow water. For this new system, most of collision energy is absorbed through the displacement of floating platforms. In order to illustrate the validity of the system, a series of model tests were conducted at a scale of 1:40. The coupled motion characteristics of the floating mooring platforms were discussed under regular and irregular waves, and the influences of wave direction and other characteristics on dynamic response of the system were analyzed. The results show that the mooring system is safest at 0° of wave incident angle, whereas the most dangerous mooring state occurs at 90° of wave incident angle. Motion responses increase with the increase of wave height, but are not linearly related to changes in wave height.  相似文献   

17.
The circulations off the Changjiang mouth in May and November were simulatedby a three dimension numerical model with monthly averaged parameters of dynamic factors in this paper. The area covers the East China Sea (ECS), Yellow Sea and Bohai Sea. Simulated results show that the circulation off the Changjiang mouth in spring and autumn is mainly the Changjiang runoff and Taiwan Warm Current (TWC). The Changjlang discharge is much larger in May than in November, and the wind is westward in May, and southward in November offthe Changjiang mouth. The runoff in May branches in three parts, one eastward flows, the other two flow northward and southward along the Subei and Zhejiang coast respectively. The Changjiang diluted water expands eastward off the mouth, and forms a strong salinity front near the mouth. Surface circulation in autumn is similar to that in winter, the runoff southward flows along the coast, and the northward flowing TWC becomes weaker compared to that in spring and summer. The bottom circulations in May and November are mainly the runoff near the mouth and the TWC off the mouth, and the runoff and TWC are greater in May than in November.  相似文献   

18.
Laboratory experiments were conducted to investigate the evolution of interfacial internal solitary waves(ISWs) incident on a triangular barrier. ISWs with different amplitudes were generated by gravitational collapse. The ISW energy dissipation and turbulence processes were calculated as waves passed over the triangular barrier. Experimental results showed that ISWs were reflecting back off the triangular barrier, and shoaling ISWs led to wave breaking and mixing when waves propagated over the obstacle. Wave instability created the dissipation of energy as it was transmitted from waves to turbulence. The rate of ISW energy dissipation, the maximum turbulent dissipation, and the buoyancy diffusivity linearly increased with the increase in the incident wave energy.  相似文献   

19.
Multi-year SST and NCEP/NCAR reanalyzed wind data were employed to study the impacts of El Nino on the Southeast Asian summer monsoon(SEASM),It was found that the impacts of El Nino on the SEASM differed distinctly from those on the East Asian Summer monsoon (EASM) and the Indian summer monsoon(ISM).Composite analysis indicated that the “gear point“of coupling between the Indo-mosoon circulation and the Pacific-Walker circulation was located in the western margins of Southeast Asia when the developing stage of El Nino events covered the boreal summer.The anomalous circulations in the lower and upper troposphere and divergent circulation are all favorable for the strengthening of the SEASM during this period.Following the evolution of El Nino,the “gear point“ of the two cells shifted eastward to the central Pacific when the mature or decaying period of El Nino events covered the boreal summer.The anomalous circulations are favorable for the weakening of the SEASM ,The anomalous indexes of intenstity of SEASM accord well with the above resultsl.Additionally,the difference of SSTA patterns in the tropical In-do-Pacific OCean between the two stages of the El Nino may play an important role.  相似文献   

20.
The objective of this study is to experimentally investigate the effectiveness of Tuned Liquid Dampers (TLDs) for suppressing the dynamic response of a platform structure subjected to wave loading and to explore the applicability of TLDs for suppressing the structural vibration of fixed offshore platforms. The experimental model is scaled according to a full size platform by matching its dynamic properties. Rectangular and circular TLDs of various sizes and water depths are examined.The experiments were performed in a 2-D wave flume. The effectiveness of TLDs is evaluated based on their response reduction. By observing the performance and the behavior of TLDs through laboratory experiments, the effects of a number of parameters including container shape, container size, number of dampers, frequency ratio, mass ratio, and incident wave characteristics are investigated.  相似文献   

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