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1.
As a fully developed (Airy) wave propagates from deep into shallow water, its crest becomes more peaked while the trough flattens out. The median crest diameter MCD, defined as the distance between the wave flanks under the crest at a level halfway between the crest and trough, therefore decreases relative to the similarly defined median trough diameter MTD, which remains constant up to the breaking point. The MCD is directly related to other wave characteristics, which enables water particle velocities to be calculated for any water depth without having to recur to more complex, higher-order Stokes, cnoidal or Fenton theories. Over a nearly horizontal bottom, most fully developed wave characteristics can be expressed as functions of the wave period Tw. It is shown that the horizontal particle velocity at the bottom under the breaker crest is at least 9 times faster than under the breaker trough, which explains why sediment is transported landward under fair weather conditions. The proposed equations also shed new light on the formation of spilling, plunging and surging/collapsing breakers. 相似文献
2.
Hedges及Kirby等的非线性弥散关系及其修正式在浅水区小波陡时存在较大误差 ,李瑞杰等针对这个问题给出了新的非线性弥散关系式。本文通过对各种非线性弥散关系计算分析可知 ,由李瑞杰等提出的非线性弥散关系除了具有Hedges ,Kirby和Dalrymple等人提出的非线性弥散关系及修正式的优点外 ,还能大大地减小在小波陡相对水深为 1相似文献
3.
In recent years, instrumentation for field flow measurements has become more and more sophisticated. In particular, local pressure and velocity are measured at frequency rates up to at least 2 Hz, which gives information on wave energy. The present work describes the methods for partially standing wave measurement in the presence of current by use of coincident measurements of both horizontal velocity and pressure, or vertical velocity. Reflection calculated from either coincident horizontal and vertical velocities or three-gauge methods are compared. They are based on existing experiments carried out in an ocean wave basin for both regular and irregular waves in the presence of current. Applications to field measurements, out of and in the breaking zones are then presented. In the nearshore, coincident horizontal and vertical velocities far from the bottom, and coincident horizontal velocity and pressure close to the bottom give relevant information concerning partially standing waves. 相似文献
4.
A non-linear coupled-mode system of horizontal equations is presented, modelling the evolution of nonlinear water waves in finite depth over a general bottom topography. The vertical structure of the wave field is represented by means of a local-mode series expansion of the wave potential. This series contains the usual propagating and evanescent modes, plus two additional terms, the free-surface mode and the sloping-bottom mode, enabling to consistently treat the non-vertical end-conditions at the free-surface and the bottom boundaries. The present coupled-mode system fully accounts for the effects of non-linearity and dispersion, and the local-mode series exhibits fast convergence. Thus, a small number of modes (up to 5–6) are usually enough for precise numerical solution. In the present work, the coupled-mode system is applied to the numerical investigation of families of steady travelling wave solutions in constant depth, corresponding to a wide range of water depths, ranging from intermediate depth to shallow-water wave conditions, and its results are compared vs. Stokes and cnoidal wave theories, as well as with fully nonlinear Fourier methods. Furthermore, numerical results are presented for waves propagating over variable bathymetry regions and compared with nonlinear methods based on boundary integral formulation and experimental data, showing good agreement. 相似文献
5.
In this work, a theoretical analysis of the dynamic response of a poro-elastic soil to the action of long water waves is conducted. For some combinations of the physical parameters of the soil and the water waves, the vertical stress tends towards zero at a certain unknown depth in the soil, as measured from the top of that medium. Under this condition, the liquefaction of the soil is imminent, at which time the excess pore pressure is essentially equal to the overburden soil pressure. Physical problems of this type have been widely studied in the specialized literature. However, most major studies have focused on solving the governing equations together with a liquefaction criterion. Here, the maximum momentary liquefaction depth induced by long water waves is considered as part of the problem, which is treated as an eigenvalue problem. To solve this problem, the governing equations are written in dimensionless form. The theoretical results show that for long waves, the horizontal displacements are smaller in magnitude than the vertical displacements, and when the wavelength or wave period increases, the maximum liquefaction also increases. Analytical solutions for the excess pore pressure and the horizontal and vertical displacements are obtained. The analytical results for the pore pressure are found to be very close to the analytical results reported in the specialized literature. 相似文献
6.
文凡 《中国海洋大学学报(自然科学版)》2000,30(4)
基于 L onguet- Higgins线性海浪模型 ,在二维情况下导出海浪波面极大值处水质点水平加速度分布律 ,其分布遵从正态分布。在分布中引入新的谱宽度参量 [(m2 m4 - m23 ) / m2 m4 ]12 。以Neumann谱为模式计算波面极大值处质点加速度分布。 相似文献
7.
An explicit and concise approximation to the wavelength in which the effect of nonlinearity is involved and presented in terms of wave height, wave period, water depth and gravitational acceleration. The present approximation is in a rational form of which Fenton and Mckee's (1990, Coastal Engng 14, 499–513) approximation is reserved in the numerator and the wave steepness is involved in the denominator. The rational form of this approximation can be converted to an alternative form of a power-series polynomial which indicates that the wavelength increases with wave height and decreases with water depth. If the determined coefficients in the present approximation are fixed, the approximating formula can provide a good agreement with the wavelengths numerically obtained by Rienecker and Fenton's (1981, J. Fluid Mech. 104, 119–137) Fourier series method, but has large deviations when waves of small amplitude are in deep water or all waves are in shallow water. The present approximation with variable coefficients can provide excellent predictions of the wavelengths for both long and short waves even, for high waves. 相似文献
8.
Using the recently developed expansion formulae for wave structure interaction problems, the scattering of surface water waves by a semi-infinite floating membrane due to abrupt change in bottom topography is analyzed. Both the cases of finite and infinite steps are analyzed. In the present paper, the analysis is based on the linearized theory of water waves and small amplitude membrane response. Combining the linearized kinematic and dynamic surface conditions on the water surface with the dynamic pressure condition on the membrane, a third order differential equation is derived to describe the membrane covered free surface condition. General wave energy relation for wave scattering by floating horizontal membrane is derived by the application of law of conservation of energy flux and alternately by the direct application of Green's second identity. In the floating membrane covered region, the wave energy density is a combination of the kinetic and potential energy density due to the surface gravity waves, and the surface energy density which is due to the existence of the floating membrane on the free surface. Gravity wave transformations due to an abrupt change in bottom topography in the presence of a floating membrane in finite water depth are analyzed based on shallow water approximation. Numerical results are computed and analyzed to understand the wave transformation due to the floating membrane when there is an abrupt change in topography in different cases. 相似文献
9.
Based on the second-order random wave solutions of water wave equations in tinite water depth, statistical distributions of the depth-integrated local horizontal momentum components are derived by use of the characteristic function expansion method. The parameters involved in the distributions can be all detemained by the water depth and the wavenumber spectrum of ocean waves. As an illustrative example, a fully developed wind-generated sea is considered and the parameters are calculated for typical wind speeds and water depths by means of the Donelan and Pierson spectrum. The effects of nonlinearity and water depth on the distributions are also investigated. 相似文献
10.
Flow kinematics of focused wave groups on a plane beach in the U.K. Coastal Research Facility 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
Alistair G.L. Borthwick Alison C. Hunt Tong Feng Paul H. Taylor Peter K. Stansby 《Coastal Engineering》2006,53(12):1033-1044
Measurements are presented of the water particle kinematics of focused wave groups generated in the U.K. Coastal Research Facility. Single and repeated wave groups are considered at normal and 20° incidence to a 1:20 plane beach. The single focused wave groups model extreme transient events without the complication of reflections during the data acquisition process. A symmetry-based separation of harmonics method is used to interpret the water particle kinematics at the point of focus. Although the largest component is linear, there are also considerable second order kinematics terms (both low frequency and high frequency). Away from the free surface, the 2nd order difference contribution to the kinematics is a return current opposed to the direction of wave advance. For repeated wave groups, the measured kinematics confirms the presence of a low frequency free wave, followed by higher frequency waves of the main group and trailing higher order harmonic waves. In the breaker and surf zones, there is also evidence of the saw-tooth behaviour of broken waves, followed by scatter due to breaker-induced turbulence. Pulsatile wave breaking of repeated wave groups at oblique incidence is found to drive a longshore current. 相似文献
11.
Airy waves have a sinusoidal profile in deep water that can be modeled by a time series at any point x and time t, given by η(x,t) = (Ho/2) cos[2πx/Lo − 2πt/Tw], where Ho is the deepwater height, Lo is the deepwater wavelength, and Tw is the wave period. However, as these waves approach the shore they change in form and dimension so that this equation becomes invalid. A method is presented to reconstruct the wave profile showing the correct wavelength, wave height, wave shape, and displacement of the water surface with respect to the still water level for any water depth. 相似文献
12.
Based on the idea of disturbing the water motion in the upright direction, a new kind of multiple-layer breakwater is proposed in this article, which mainly consists of several horizontal plates. The breakwater's performance of dissipating waves has been investigated in detail in the regular wave tests. The factors identified with the characteristics of the breakwater are discussed, such as the relative width, the wave steepness and the models geometrical parameters (the width and the gap). The comparison and analysis of the transmission and reflection coefficients with respect to different factors are presented. The model test results indicate that the multiple-layer breakwater has the good characteristic of dissipating waves. Further more, only in a little extent can it reflect the waves. The multiple-layer breakwater proposed in the paper is very significative to promote the open type breakwater to be the permanent wave attenuator in the application. 相似文献
13.
考虑旋转向量水平分量的大洋内波方程的一个渐近解 总被引：8，自引：0，他引：8
对于考虑旋转向量水平分量的大洋内波方程,本文求出了满足该方程的波函数的一个渐近解.该渐近波函数的振荡特性得到研究,结果表明旋转向量水平分量对高模态(高波数)内波的影响是不可忽略的. 相似文献
14.
利用Flow-3D建立三维数值波浪水槽,模拟波浪在不对称台阶地形上的传播。系统研究规则波作用下墩柱周围水流的流动特性,分析墩柱周围的瞬时速度场、涡量场以及KC值变化,不同相位时墩柱前、后水平流速分布情况。结果表明:波浪在台阶地形传播的过程中,墩柱迎水面的涡动结构不够明显;高涡量呈对称状聚集在墩柱的背水面,并形成一对旋转方向相反的涡结构;周期对KC值的影响比波高的影响要明显;墩柱迎水面水平方向流速变化较大,侧面水平流速变化最为剧烈,背面由于受到墩柱的掩护作用水平方向流速变化不大,在墩柱的正面和侧面竖向环流明显。 相似文献
15.
In this paper, by non-dimensional analysis, it is found that finite-depth theory is more appropriate to the study of internal solitary waves (ISWs) in the South China Sea (SCS) than shallow-water theory. The 1-degree grid data of monthly mean temperature and salinity data at standard levels in the SCS are used to solve the linearized vertical eigenvalue problem. The nonlinear parameter and the wave phase speed are computed, then the nonlinear phase speed and the characteristic half-width of ISWs are calculated respectively by two different theories to investigate the difference between these two parameters in the SCS. The nonlinearity is the strongest near the continental slope of the SCS or islands where the bottom topography changes sharply, it is stronger in summer than that in winter; it increases (decreases) as pycnocline depth deepens (shallows), stratification strengthens (weakens) and pycnocline thickness thins (thickens). The nonlinear wave phase speed and the characteristic half-width are the largest in deep sea area, they then reduce peripherally in shallower water. The nonlinear wave phase speed in the SCS changes slightly with time, but the characteristic half-width changes somewhat larger with time. In most of the SCS basin, the nonlinear wave phase speed derived from shallow-water theory is very close to that derived from finite-depth theory, but the characteristic half-width derived from shallow-water theory is about 0.2–0.6 times larger than that derived from finite-depth theory. The ISW induced horizontal current velocity derived from shallow-water theory is larger than that derived from finite-depth theory. Some observed and numerical modeled ISW characteristic half-widths are compared with those derived from shallow-water and finite-depth theories, respectively. It is shown that, the characteristic half-widths derived from finite-depth theory agree better with observational and numerical modeled results than those derived from shallow-water theory in most cases, finite-depth theory is more applicable to the estimation of ISW characteristic half-widths in the northern SCS. It is also suggested that, to derive the precise ISW parameters in further study, the physical non-dimensional ratios which are related with ISW characteristic half-width, amplitude, thermocline and water depths should be calculated, so that an appropriate theory can be chosen for estimation. 相似文献
16.
The accuracy of several asymptotic series expansions for wave speed and particle velocity under the crest of a solitary wave (on a fluid at rest) up to maximum height is investigated. The very accurate numerical results of Williams (1985) are the measure for our comparisons. The results are based on a scaling of calculated properties of long periodic waves to the case of solitary waves.For wave speeds the classical Boussinesq–Rayleigh expression gives good agreement up to a relative wave height of, say, 0.3. An asymptotic fourth-order expression based on Fenton (1990) can be used up to a relative wave height of 0.7, whereas the corresponding fifth-order expression is slightly less accurate.The Eulerian particle velocity profile under the wave crest is examined using a cnoidal wave expression from Fenton (1990) in the limit of the solitary wave. For low waves a `consistent' (i.e. properly truncated) fifth-order expression and an `inconsistent' ditto both coincide with Williams' results. Beginning at medium high waves, the consistent expression surprisingly exhibits oscillations in the velocity profile, and the oscillations become stronger as the wave gets higher. The inconsistent expression, however, yields the same shape as Williams' profile, but is displaced parallel to this, resulting in slightly larger velocities. For high waves also the inconsistent expression begins to differ in shape from Williams' profile, and asymptotic theory fails. Only for low waves `lowest order theory' gives acceptable results. We show analytically that for the highest wave the particle velocity profile has a horizontal tangent at the water surface; this is corroborated by Williams' numerical results.We also study the particle velocity at the wave crest as a function of wave height. It is shown that the variation has a vertical tangent for the highest wave. Two fifth-order asymptotic series for this velocity, based on the wave speed through the Bernoulli equation, show very good agreement with Williams up to a relative wave height of about 0.6.It is finally shown that it is possible to produce very accurate rational-function approximations to Williams' results for the wave speed as well as for the particle velocity at the wave crest. 相似文献
17.
Alternative forms of the higher-order Boussinesq equations: Derivations and validations 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
An alternative form of the Boussinesq equations is developed, creating a model which is fully nonlinear up to O(μ4) (μ is the ratio of water depth to wavelength) and has dispersion accurate to the Padé [4,4] approximation. No limitation is imposed on the bottom slope; the variable distance between free surface and sea bottom is accounted for by a σ-transformation. Two reduced forms of the model are also presented, which simplify O(μ4) terms using the assumption ε = O(μ2/3) (ε is the ratio of wave height to water depth). These can be seen as extensions of Serre's equations, with dispersions given by the Padé [2,2] and Padé [4,4] approximations. The third-order nonlinear characteristics of these three models are discussed using Fourier analysis, and compared to other high-order formulations of the Boussinesq equations. The models are validated against experimental measurements of wave propagation over a submerged breakwater. Finally, the nonlinear evolution of wave groups along a horizontal flume is simulated and compared to experimental data in order to investigate the effects of the amplitude dispersion and the four-wave resonant interaction. 相似文献
18.
The characteristics of wave and turbulence velocities created by a broad-banded irregular wave train breaking on a 1:35 slope were studied in a laboratory wave flume. Water particle velocities were measured simultaneously with wave elevations at three cross-shore locations inside the surf zone. The measured data were separated into low-frequency and high-frequency time series using a Fourier filter. The measured velocities were further separated into organized wave-induced velocities and turbulent velocity fluctuations by ensemble averaging. The broad-banded irregular waves created a wide surf zone that was dominated by spilling type breakers. A wave-by-wave analysis was carried out to obtain the probability distributions of individual wave heights, wave periods, peak wave velocities, and wave-averaged turbulent kinetic energies and Reynolds stresses. The results showed that there was a consistent increase in the kurtosis of the vertical velocity distribution from the surface to the bottom. The abnormally large downward velocities were produced by plunging breakers that occurred from time to time. It was found that the mean of the highest one-third wave-averaged turbulent kinetic energy values in the irregular waves was about the same as the time-averaged turbulent kinetic energy in a regular wave with similar deep-water wave height to wavelength ratio. It was also found that the correlation coefficient of the Reynolds stress varied strongly with turbulence intensity. Good correlation between u′ and w′ was obtained when the turbulence intensity was high; the correlation coefficient was about 0.3–0.5. The Reynolds stress correlation coefficient decreased over a wave cycle, and with distance from the water surface. Under the irregular breaking waves, turbulent kinetic energy was transported downward and landward by turbulent velocity fluctuations and wave velocities, and upward and seaward by the undertow. The undertow in the irregular waves was similar in vertical structure but lower in magnitude than in regular waves, and the horizontal velocity profiles under the low-frequency waves were approximately uniform. 相似文献
19.
20.
The measurements by using ADCP (500 KH) and CTD were made during August 2000 in the south (37°55''N, 120°25''E) of the Bohai Sea, where the water depth was about 16.5m. The data of horizontal velocity with sampling interval of 2 min in 7 layers were obtained. The power spec-trum analysis of these data indicates that there are very energetic infragrvity waves with a period of about 6 min. The coherence spetrum analysis and the analysis of temporal variation of shear show that these infragravity waves are mainly the free wave model (properties of edge waves), in the meantimethey possess some characteristics of internal waves, which are likely due to the distinctive marine environment in this area. It is speculated on that the instability processes (chiefly shear instability) of sheared stratified tidal flow owing to the effect of sea-floor slope in the coastal area might be the main mechanism generating these infragravity waves. 相似文献