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1.
In the recent paper by Tai-Wen Hsu, John R.-C. Hsu, Wen-Kai Weng, Swun-Kwang Wang, and Shan-Hwei Ou (Coastal Engineering, 53, 865–877, 2006), the authors derived theoretical formulations for calculating the wave setup and setdown induced by obliquely incident waves on a beach. The derivation of an expression for setdown contains errors which would lead to an imbalance in longshore momentum flux outside the surfzone. We correct their derivation and give results in terms of the radiation stress concept in a general case including an oblique wave incidence. We also point out that the correct form of wave setdown is important to describe the zero-net force in the momentum balance outside the surfzone. 相似文献
2.
《Coastal Engineering》2006,53(10):865-877
An analytical theory is developed for the wave setup and setdown induced by obliquely incident waves on an impermeable swell-built beach profile. The wave setup and setdown are found to decrease as wave obliquity increases. The incorporation of wave obliquity in wave setup and setdown formulation offers the physical reality in engineering applications. The general solutions presented in this paper yield the limiting case of normal wave incidence and the result is consistent with the classical theories published. The present theory is primarily applicable to the spilling and plunging breaker across the surf zone, within which wave amplitude is assumed to be linearly related to the local water depth. Experiments were conducted in a large-scale wave basin to compare with theoretical results and especially to investigate the applicability of this assumption to the case of obliquely incident waves. The dimensionless setup versus the distance offshore within the surf zone is found to depend on wave breaking angle and the shape of the beach profile; and it has a non-zero value at the original shoreline position. This implies that the original shoreline will advance landwards, and that the extent of this movement can be related to wave angle at breaking and the beach profile under consideration. The results of the present theory are in good agreement with experimental data and field measurements available. 相似文献
3.
Mean water level setup/setdown in the inlet-lagoon system induced by tidal action-a case study of Xincun Inlet, Hainan Island in China 总被引：2，自引：1，他引：1
With the tides propagating from the open sea to the lagoon, the mean water level （MWL） in the inlet and lagoon becomes different from that at the open sea, and a setup/setdown is generated. The change of MWL （setup/setdown） in the system imposes a great impact on regulating the development of tidal marshes, on determining the long-term water level for harbor maintenance, on the planning for the water front development with the flood control for the possible inundation, and on the interpretation of the historical sea level change when using tidal marsh peat deposits in the lagoon as the indicator for open sea＇ s sea level. In this case study on the mechanisms which control the setup/setdown in Xincun Inlet, Hainan in China, the 2-D barotropic mode of Eulerian - Lagrangian CIRCulation （ELCIRC） model was utilized. After model calibration and verification, a series of numerical experiments were conducted to examine the effects of bottom friction and advection terms, wetting and drying of intertidal areas, bathymetry and boundary conditions on the setup/setdown in the system. The modeling results show that setup occurs over the inlet and lagoon areas with an order of one tenth of the tide range at the entrance. The larger the bottom friction is, a larger setup is generated. Without the advection term, the setup is reduced clue to a decrease of water level gradient to compensate for the disappearance of the advection term. Even without overtides, a setup can still be developed in the system. Sea level rise and dredging in the inlet and tidal channel can cause a decrease of setup in the system, whereas shoaling of the system can increase the setup. The uniqueness of the Xincun Inlet with respect to MWL change is that there is no evident setdown in the inlet, which can be attributed to the complex geometry and bathymetry associated with the inlet system. 相似文献
4.
Wave-induced setup/setdown and longshore currents are examined theoretically for non-planar, concave-up beaches. A beach profile in which the still-water-depth is proportional to the horizontal distance offshore raised to the power is examined in detail. The total mean-water-depth, which includes the sum of the still-water-depth for this power beach profile plus the wave-induced setup/setdown, may be approximated shoreward of the breaker line in a best least-squares sense by a profile that is proportional to the horizontal distance offshore raised to the power. The longshore current profile for this non-planar beach is found to differ significantly from that predicted analytically for a planar beach. The longshore current velocity does not vanish at the shoreline as in the planar beach case. In addition, the peak velocities and the total longshore transport of water are found to be less than for the corresponding planar beach cases. For a given concave-up beach profile, the influence of the lateral mixing increases as the wave height decreases. 相似文献
5.
《Coastal Engineering》2006,53(2-3):149-156
Wave setup can contribute significantly to elevated water levels during severe storms. In Florida we have found that wave setup can be 30% to 60% of the total 100-year storm surge. In areas with relatively narrow continental shelves, such as many locations along the Pacific Coast of the United States, wave setup can be an even larger proportionate contributor of anomalous water levels during major storms. Wave setup can be considered as comprising two components, with the first being the well-known static wave setup resulting from the transfer of breaking wave momentum to the water column. The second, oscillating component, is a result of nonlinear transfer of energy and momentum from the primary (linear) spectrum to waves with length and time scales on the order of the wave groups.Static wave setup is the focus of this paper with emphasis on effects due to internal or surface forces that act on the wave system and cause both dissipation of wave energy and transfer of momentum. In particular, the effects of wave damping by vegetation and bottom friction are considered. Linear wave theory is applied to illustrate these effects and, for shallow water waves, the setup is reduced by two-thirds the amount that would occur if the same amount of energy dissipation occurred in the absence of forces. Effects of nonlinear waves are then considered and it is found, for a shallow water wave of approximately one-half breaking height, that a wave setdown rather than setup occurs due to damping by vegetation and bottom friction.The problem of wave setup as waves propagate through vegetation was stimulated by studies to establish hazard zones associated with 100-year storm events along the shorelines of the United States. These storms can generate elevated water levels exceeding 4 to 6 m and can result in overland wave propagation. As these waves propagate through vegetation and damp, the question arose as to the contribution of this process to elevated mean water levels through additional wave setup. 相似文献
6.
A three-dimensional non-hydrostatic model based on volumed-averaged, Reynolds-averaged Navier-Stokes (VARANS) equations in sigma coordinate, is applied to simulate the propagation process of irregular wave over a typical fringing coral reef profile, with emphasis on the changes of wave height and wave setup on the reef flat. Compared with the laboratory measured data of several groups of wave and water level parameters, the model is shown to be capable of simulating well the wave transformation over the reef profile with and without porous media. Across all cases, the porous cases decrease the wave height by 12% around the breaking point, and by 28% on the reef flat than the smooth cases. As for the mean water level, the results show that the maximum setdown decreases by 43% on average for the porous cases than the smooth cases, while the wave setup on the reef flat for corresponding porous and smooth simulations is found to agree with an average difference of only 6%. In addition, the variation of porosity in the range 0.47?0.87 auses little effect on the wave setup. 相似文献
7.
Open coast storm surge water levels consist of wind setup due to wind shear at the water surface; a wave setup component caused by wind induced waves transferring momentum to the water column; an atmospheric pressure head component due to the atmospheric pressure deficit over the spatial extent of the storm system; a Coriolis forced setup or setdown component due to the effects of the rotation of the earth acting on the wind driven alongshore current at the coast; a possible seiche component due to resonance effects initiated by moving wind system, and, if astronomical tides are present, an astronomical tide component (although the tide is typically considered to be a forced astronomical event and not really a direct part of the external wind-driven meteorological component of storm surge). Typically the most important component of a storm surge is the wind setup component, especially on the U.S. East Coast and the Gulf of Mexico shorelines. In many approaches to storm surge modeling, a constant depth approximation is invoked over a limited step size in the computational domain. The use of a constant depth approximation has received little attention in the literature although can be very important to the resulting magnitude of the computed storm surge. The importance of discrete step size to the wind setup storm surge component is considered herein with a simple case computation of the wind setup component on a linear slope offshore profile. The present study findings show that the constant depth approximation to wind setup storm surge estimation is biased on the low side (except in extremely shallow water depths) and can provide large errors if discrete step size is not sufficiently resolved. Guidance has been provided on the error that one might encounter for various step sizes on different slopes. 相似文献
8.
Water level variations due to obliquely incident, shoaling and breaking waves on a plane sloping beach were discussed recently by Hsu et al. (Coastal Engineering, 53, 865–877, 2006). An inconsistency in this work with respect to the set-down, and its implications to circulation offshore of the breakpoint, was pointed out by Shi and Kirby (Coastal Engineering, 55, 1246 – 1249, 2008). Here we extend that discussion to include the surfzone momentum balance and wave-induced set-up. We discuss some remaining inconsistencies in the approximation of the surfzone momentum balance, derive and present a consistent approximation, and validate the new approximation through numerical comparison to a more exact model. 相似文献
9.
For a concave-up power Bruun beach profile, the following two energetics-based sediment transport models are developed: (1) a Bagnold-type model and (2) a combined wave-current stress model. The stress model is calibrated with the Bagnold model using observed transport rates on planar beaches. The sediment transport profiles for the two models are in agreement within the surf zone for the planar beach case; but the stress model is also applied seaward of the breaker line where the Bagnold model is not. A mean swash transport of sand is predicted by the Bagnold model for a power least-squares approximation to total depth including setup/setdown on a Bruun beach profile. The total longshore transport of sand is determined for each transport model as a function of the turbulent lateral mixing strength. The total sand transport is found to be less on a concave-up beach profile than for the corresponding planar beach case. 相似文献
10.
考虑非线性弥散影响的波浪变形数学模型 总被引：3，自引：1，他引：3
提出了逼近Kirby和Dalrymple的非线性弥散关系的显式非线性弥散关系的表达式,该显式表达式与他们的非线性弥散关系的精度几乎完全相同.采用显式非线性弥散关系,结合含弱非线性效应的缓坡方程,得到考虑非线性弥散影响的波浪变形数学模型,并对该数学模型进行了数值验证.结果表明,考虑非线性弥散影响的波浪变形数学模型更为精确. 相似文献
11.
By applying the linear water wave theory and the eigenfunction expansion method, the wave reflection by a vertical wall with a horizontal submerged porous plate is investigated in this paper. The numerical results, concerning the effects of the dimensionless plate length, the relative water depth, and the porous effect parameter of the plate on the wave loads on the plate and the wave height near the wall as well as the reflection coefficient, are discussed. It is found that the submerged plate increases the complexity of the phenomenon related to the wave reflection and refraction in the close region of the wall, and leads to the occurrence of the phenomenon of wave trapping. The results indicate that there may exist a process of focusing wave energy near the wall for small dimensionless porous effect parameters, whereas the increase of the dimensionless porous effect parameter decreases gradually the wave height until setdown occurs. The behavior of a larger plate with proper porosity is similar to that of a wave absorber which can significantly suppress not only the wave height above the plate but also the reflection waves. The ability of the porous plate to reduce the wave height on the wall surface is, in general, directly proportional to the dimensionless plate length and may be strongest for a proper value of the dimensionless porous effect parameter. It is also demonstrated that the wave loads on a porous plate are smaller than those on an impermeable plate. 相似文献
12.
Hedges及Kirby等的非线性弥散关系及其修正式在浅水区小波陡时存在较大误差 ,李瑞杰等针对这个问题给出了新的非线性弥散关系式。本文通过对各种非线性弥散关系计算分析可知 ,由李瑞杰等提出的非线性弥散关系除了具有Hedges ,Kirby和Dalrymple等人提出的非线性弥散关系及修正式的优点外 ,还能大大地减小在小波陡相对水深为 1相似文献
13.
Nonlinear Dispersion Effect on Wave Transformation 总被引：5，自引：2，他引：3
—A new nonlinear dispersion relation is given in this paper.which can overcome the limitationof the intermediate minimum value in the dispersion relation proposed by Kirby and Dalrymple(1986).and which has a better approximation to Hedges'empirical relation than the modified relations by Hedges(1987).Kirby and Dalrymple(1987)for shallow waters.The new dispersion relation is simple in form.thusit can be used easily in practice.Meanwhile,a general explicit approximation to the new dispersion rela-tion and other nonlinear dispersion relations is given.By use of the explicit approximation to the newdispersion relation along with the mild slope equation taking into account weakly nonlinear effect.amathematical model is obtained,and it is applied to laboratory data.The results show that the model de-veloped with the new dispersion relation predicts wave transformation over complicated topography quitewell. 相似文献
14.
Wind plays an important role in regulating mixing/stratification, estuarine circulation, and transport timescale in estuaries. A three-dimensional model was used to investigate the effect of wind on transport time by using the concept of water age (WA) in the tidal Rappahannock River, a western tributary of the Chesapeake Bay, USA. The model was calibrated for water level, current, and salinity. A series of experiments regarding the effects of wind on WA was conducted under various dynamic conditions. The effect of wind on transport timescale depends strongly on the competition between the wind and buoyancy forcings, and on the pre-status of the circulation. A down-estuary wind generally decreases WA along the estuary. An up-estuary wind increases WA substantially because it changes the vertical mixing and estuarine circulation more significantly. When the buoyancy forcing increases, the up-estuary wind effect decreases whereas the down-estuary wind effect increases. A 2-day period wind pulse with a maximum speed of 15 m s−1 can alter WA for 3 days; but the wind influence on WA lasts up to 40 days in the simulation. Both local and non-local wind forcings alter WA distribution. The local wind enhances vertical mixing and changes the gravitational circulation in the downstream portion of the estuary whereas it enhances transport in the freshwater portion of the estuary. Consequently, the local wind has a significant impact on WA distribution. In contrast, the non-local wind does not change the gravitational circulation significantly by imposing setup (setdown) of water level at the open boundary, resulting in a lesser impact on WA distribution. 相似文献
15.
非线性弥散效应及其对波浪变形的影响 总被引：7，自引：0，他引：7
针对Hedges,Kirby和Dalrymple提出的非线性弥散关系的修正式在浅水区存在的较大偏差的问题，给出了一个在整个水深范围内具有单值性的非线性弥散关系。比较可知，它具有在深水与中等水深逼近二阶Stokes波的弥散关系式，在浅水较Hedges,Kirby和Dalymple的修正表达式与Hedges的关系更加吻合的优点，且形式简练，用近似该非线性弥散关系的显式表达式，结合弱非线性效应的缓坡方程，得到考虑非线性弥散影响的波浪变形模型。数值模拟结果表明，用新的非线性弥散关系得到的模型对复杂地形进行模拟的结果和实测结果吻合很好。 相似文献
16.
《Coastal Engineering》2005,52(6):513-533
Using the perturbation method, a time dependent parabolic equation is developed based on the elliptic mild slope equation with dissipation term. With the time dependent parabolic equation employed as the governing equation, a numerical model for wave propagation including dissipation term in water of slowly varying topography is presented in curvilinear coordinates. In the model, the self-adaptive grid generation method is employed to generate a boundary-fitted and varying spacing mesh. The numerical tests show that the effects of dissipation term should be taken into account if the distance of wave propagation is large, and that the outgoing boundary conditions can be treated more effectively by introduction of the dissipation term into the numerical model. The numerical model is able to give good results of simulating wave propagation for waters of complicatedly boundaries and effectively predict physical processes of wave propagation. Moreover, the errors of the analytical solution deduced by Kirby et al. (1994) [Kirby, J.T., Dalrymple, R.A., Kabu, H., 1994. Parabolic approximation for water waves in conformal coordinate systems. Coastal Engineering 23, 185–213.] from the small-angle parabolic approximation of the mild-slope equation for the case of waves between diverging breakwaters in a polar coordinate system are corrected. 相似文献
17.
- A mild-slope equation for combined refraction and diffraction of random waves in the independent time current is derived using Kirby equation(1984). In the derivation, the frequency of random waves is represented based on the time series concept, by a typical frequency and its deviation part. Numerical results, compared with those of laboratory experiments, demonstrate that new set of irregular mild slope equation with current is of good adaptability. 相似文献
18.
The relative importance of radiation stress gradients and alongshore pressure gradients to surfzone dynamics is investigated using observations of water levels, waves, and flows measured onshore of a large ebb-tidal delta. Incident wave heights measured along the ~ 11-m depth contour varied about 10% over a 1.2-km alongshore transect, resulting in alongshore wave setup differences on the order of 10 cm over the 600-m extent of the surfzone instrument array in 1.5-m depth. Despite the moderate alongshore variability in wave heights, the southerly alongshore pressure gradient, associated with the alongshore variability of wave-driven set-up, was typically twice as large as the northerly radiation stress gradient forcing, consistent with the observed southerly currents during the week-long experiment. The magnitude of the alongshore forcing and resulting alongshore velocity is reproduced by the two-dimensional depth-averaged numerical model of Shi et al. (JGR-Oceans, 2011). These observations, together with the numerical results, indicate that moderate alongshore wave height gradients (O(10− 4)) outside the surfzone owing to alongshore variations in the offshore bathymetry can result in alongshore pressure gradients that are larger than radiation stress gradients. 相似文献
19.
Lin Mingchung Hsiao Sungshan Hsu Yungcheng
Professor Dept. of Naval Architecture Ocean Engineering National Taiwan University Taiwan. Doctor Course Student Dept. of Naval Architecture Ocean Engineering National Taiwan University Taiwan 《中国海洋工程》1994,(3)
-Wave refraction-diffraction due to a large ocean structure and topography in the presence of a 'current are studied numerically. The mathematical model is the mild-slope equation developed by Kirby (1984). This equation is solved using a finite and boundary element method. The physical domain is devid-ed into two regions: a slowly varying topography region and a constant water depth region. For waves propagating in the constant water depth region, without current interfering, the mild- slope equation is then reduced to the Helmholtz equation which is solved by boundary element method. In varying topography region, this equation will be solved by finite element method. Conservation of mass and energy flux of the fluid between these two regions is required for composition of these two numerical methods. The numerical scheme proposed here is capable of dealing with water wave problems of different water depths with the main characters of these two methods. 相似文献
20.
PL Woodworth 《African Journal of Marine Science》2020,42(2):233-245
Wave setup was investigated using data from tide gauges in a small harbour at the island of Tristan da Cunha in the South Atlantic Ocean. Frequent examples of wave setup were found during the period 1986–1992, but were much less apparent after 1992, following extensions to the two breakwater arms of the harbour. The unambiguous association of wave setup with the several-decimetre spikes in Tristan sea level, which can persist for a day or so, are a warning that signals related to wave setup could also occur in other tide gauge records, where the wave setup signal could perhaps be misinterpreted as wind setup within the overall storm surge. One conclusion is that, in spite of the difficulties of access to Tristan da Cunha and its ever-present hostile wave climate, the island is undoubtedly now worthy of a permanent tide-gauge installation, which would be an important contribution to the global sea-level network. 相似文献