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1.
In the Boussinesq approximation, we study baroclinic topographic waves trapped by the flat meridional slope. The existence of these waves is explained by stratification, inclined bottom, and Earth's rotation. We deduce the evolutionary equation for the square of the envelope of a narrow-band wave packet of trapped waves. In the second order of smallness relative to the wave amplitude, we find the mean fields of velocity and density induced by the packet. It is shown that, in the limiting case of weakly nonlinear plane waves, the induced current is zonal. In the Northern hemisphere, depending on the slope of the bottom γ1, the sign of the phase velocity σ/k (k is the zonal wave number) is either always positive (for γ1>γ1cr) or always negative (for γ1<γ1cr). If we neglect the vertical component of the Coriolis acceleration, then γ1cr=0. Translated by Peter V. Malyshev and Dmitry V. Malyshev  相似文献   

2.
Using the micro-structure profiler, TurboMAP, large values for the turbulent energy dissipation rate ε were found just above the bottom of the shelf and around the thermocline near the continental shelf break in the East China Sea. The values found above the bottom are produced by the bottom stress due to tidal currents, resulting in a distinct bottom mixed layer where the vertical eddy diffusivity Kz is also large. Distinct maxima in the values of ε detected around the thermocline are located at the depth of the fine-scale shear maxima detected with the moored ADCP. The vertical profiles of ε were compared with those of the current velocity, and it was found that the maxima in ε appear to correspond to those of the shear with fine scale. The magnitude of the observed ε coincided approximately with the ε calculated from the fine-scale shear and the buoyancy frequency according to the parameterization proposed by Gregg (1989), if the large-scale mean shear caused by the Kuroshio is subtracted. However, it is not clear whether the parameterization for the internal wave fields in the open ocean is applicable to the estimation of ε in the shelf break. Whereas the most predominant value of ε was found just above the bottom and around the thermocline, the maxima of ε could be found in the internal area. They could have been caused by the propagation of the vertically high wave number internal tides along the characteristic ray.  相似文献   

3.
Dong-Soo Hur   《Ocean Engineering》2004,31(10):83-1311
This study investigates the wave deformation of multi-directional random waves passing over an impermeable submerged breakwater installed on the slope. Experiments were conducted in a three-dimensional wave basin equipped with a multi-directional random wave generator. Measurements of the free surface elevations around an impermeable submerged breakwater were carried out using 19 capacitance-type wave gages. In addition, a numerical model is proposed in three-dimensional random wave field. It is shown that the numerical results reproduce the general trend of the experimental results well. Investigations are made to study the effect of the spreading parameter Smax and bottom topography (bottom slope and submerged breakwater) on the wave deformation. It is pointed out that concentration of wave energy with larger values of the spreading parameter Smax is located within narrow limits in onshore side of the submerged breakwater. Furthermore, the supplementary discussion is made by means of numerical results.  相似文献   

4.
Infra-gravity wave generation by the shoaling wave groups over beaches   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  
A physical parameter, μb, which was used to meet the forcing of primary short waves to be off-resonant before wave breaking, has been considered as an applicable parameter in the infra-gravity wave generation. Since a series of modulating wave groups for different wave conditions are performed to proceed with the resonant mechanism of infra-gravity waves prior to wave breaking, the amplitude growth of incident bound long wave is assumed to be simply controlled by the normalized bed slope, βb. The results appear a large dependence of the growth rate, α, of incident bound long wave, separated by the three-array method, on the normalized bed slope, βb. High spatial resolution of wave records enables identification of the cross-correlation between squared short-wave envelopes and infra-gravity waves. The cross-shore structure of infra-gravity waves over beaches presents the mechanics of incident bound- and outgoing free long waves with the formation of free standing long waves in the nearshore region. The wave run-up and amplification of infra-gravity waves in the swash zone appear that the additional long waves generated by the breaking process would modify the cross-shore structure of free standing long waves. Finally, this paper would further discuss the contribution of long wave breaking and bottom friction to the energy dissipation of infra-gravity waves based on different slope conditions.  相似文献   

5.
Transmission and reflection coefficients are calculated for Rossby waves incident on a bottom topography with constant slope in a continuously stratified ocean. The characteristics of the coefficients are interpreted in terms of the quasigeostrophic waves on the slope. In the parameter range where only the barotropic Rossby waves can propagate in the region outside the slope, the bottom trapped wave plays the same role as the topographic Rossby wave in a homogeneous ocean, and hence the transmission is weak unless phase matching takes place. When both of the barotropic and baroclinic Rossby waves can propagate outside the slope, the total transmission can be strong. The bottom trapped wave affects the transmission and reflection, and it leads to the possibility that the Rossby wave is transmitted as a mode different from the incident mode. When the number of the wavy modes on the slope is smaller than that of the Rossby wave modes outside the slope, strong reflection occurs.The results for an ocean with linear distribution of the squared Brunt-Väisälä frequency are compared to those in a uniformly stratified ocean. The weakening of the stratification near the bottom is almost equivalent to reducing the effect of the slope.  相似文献   

6.
Wave interaction with T-type breakwaters   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  
The wave transmission, reflection and energy dissipation characteristics of partially submerged ‘T'-type breakwaters (Fig. 1) were studied using physical models. Regular and random waves, with wide ranges of wave heights and periods and a constant water depth were used. Five different depths of immersions of the ‘T'-type breakwater were selected. The coefficient of transmission, Kt, coefficient reflection, Kr, were obtained from the measurements and the coefficient of energy loss, Kl is calculated using the law of conservation of energy. It is found that the coefficient of transmission generally reduces with increased wave steepness and increased relative water depth, d/L. This breakwater is found to be effective closer to deep-water conditions. Kt values less than 0.35 is obtained for both normal and high input wave energy levels, when the horizontal barrier of the T type breakwater is immersed to about 7% of the water depth. This breakwater is also found to be very efficient in dissipating the incident wave energy to an extent of about 65% (i.e. Kl>0.8), especially for high input wave energy levels. The wave climate in front of the breakwater is also measured and studied.
Full-size image (12K)
Fig. 1. Schematic view of the T-type breakwater.  相似文献   

7.
Transmission and reflection problems when kissing≓ occurs among planetary and topographic Rossby waves in a two-layer ocean are studied. The slope parameterS(=dh 2/dx, whereh 2is the thickness of the lower layer) is assumed to have constant values in the regionsx 0 andxL and to vary linearly with the increase ofx in the region0xL (refer to Fig. 2 in the text). Furthermore, a wave is entered fromx=– and kissing is assumed to occur in the region (0<)x axxb(<L).It is found that a wave of the same type as the incident wave is mainly transmitted when the width of the region in which kissing occurs,L kiss(=tx b–xa), is smaller than kiss=2/(¦K¦+ y/2), whereK is a representative wavenumber in the regionx ab, y is they-component of , and is the frequency. WhenL kiss is larger than kiss, on the other hand, the main wave transmitted is of a different type to the incident wave. As an application, transmission and reflection problems of planetary Rossby waves are considered, and it is shown that when an external (internal) planetary Rossby wave is entered, an internal (external) one can be transmitted due to the effect of kissing.  相似文献   

8.
以浮式半潜平台为研究对象，针对影响气隙结果的波浪非线性效应进行研究分析。通过分析平台气隙响应特性，确保平台在极端海况下的安全性。首先通过数值计算与模型试验，对一座浮式半潜平台在极端海况下的气隙响应进行计算与测量；进一步对平台附近18个典型位置的波面升高响应进行统计分析与概率分布拟合处理；最终求得反映各处波浪非线性强度的非线性因子∂值，并与OTG-13规范中的建议值对比讨论。结果发现∂的计算值与建议值并不完全一致，由于波浪受平台运动及平台结构扰动影响，平台下浮体附近处波浪非线性效应较强，计算值较建议值大，需要重点考虑分析。相应地，距离平台结构较远位置处的计算结果与建议值一致。  相似文献   

9.
Some behavior ofSergestes lucens by day was observed by underwater camera with an electronic flash. A number of species was snapped at about 2–60 m above the steep continental slope where the bottom ranged between 341 and 437 m depths. They were often abundant from 3–4 to 10 m above the bottom. It suggests that the shrimps scatter widely along the continental slope by day. The maximum concentration of the shrimp was 1.2 individuals/m3. None of the shrimps was found on the bottom, and the majority were swimming in horizontal position.  相似文献   

10.
The comparison of six well-known models of the wave bottom boundary layer shows that they are identical in the case of a smooth bottom but exhibit serious differences for the other types of conditions. The thickness of the wave bottom boundary layer and the coefficient of vertical diffusion of momentum are studied by using the relations of the k-ε-model. The validity of these estimates is checked by comparing the measured and computed values of the friction velocity. This comparison demonstrates fairly good agreement between the results characterized by a coefficient of correlation equal to 0.851. __________ Translated from Morskoi Gidrofizicheskii Zhurnal, No. 6, pp. 54–67, November–December, 2005.  相似文献   

11.
The foraminiferal (planktonic and benthic) and nannofosssil assemblages have been analyzed in the sediments of Core ACB-17-1447 taken from the South America continental slope north of the Rio Grande Rise piedmont during Cruise 17 of the R/V Akademik Sergey Vavilov. The core section is largely composed of carbonate and marly hemipelagic mud. The Quaternary age of the host sediments is evident from the occurrence of the planktonic foraminiferal index species Globorotalia truncatulinoides. Based on the nannofossil assemblages, the core sediments are attributed to the upper Pleistocene-Holocene. They contain abundant reworked Pliocene, Miocene, and Paleogene taxa transported from the slopes of the underwater Rio Grande Rise. The paleotemperature analysis of the planktonic foraminifers provided data for constructing the temperature curve that demonstrates two warm peaks. During the first warm period (Interval of 7–9 cm), the surface water temperature was as high as 26°C (Holocene optimum), which exceeds by 3–4°C its presentday values and implies the more intense warm Brazil Current. The earlier warm peak with temperatures up to 24°C recorded in the upper Pleistocene sediments (Interval of 69–71 cm) most likely reflects the 3rd oxygenisotope stage (MIS 3), which corresponds to the interstadial phase of the last glaciation (30–40 ka ago). Based on the abundances, taxonomic diversity, and proportions of the characteristic species of benthic foraminifers, the Core ASV-17-1447 section is divided into six intervals correlated with the marine isotopic stages defined by both the planktonic foraminifers and climatic changes evident from the variations in the bottom water circulation along the southwestern slope of the Brazilian Basin during the Late Quaternary.  相似文献   

12.
The existence of a transition in the slope of the wind-generated gravity wave spectrum from a f−4 to a f−5 power law, at a given frequency in the high frequency range, is examined. Evidence of its existence and of the non-uniqueness of the wave spectrum slope in the equilibrium range is presented. Furthermore, it is demonstrated that the statistical variability of the spectral estimates makes it difficult to obtain reliable results from limited sets of finite length wave records.  相似文献   

13.
Experiments were performed in a wave flume to measure the intensity, transmission and reflection of waves breaking over a submerged reef with an offshore gradient of 1:10. The results demonstrate that the relative water depth over the reef crest (hc/Ho) is a dominant factor affecting the breaking characteristics. In particular it is found that as the relative crest submergence is reduced, there is a considerable increase in the intensity of wave breaking over the reef that can be quantified through measurements of the air cavity enclosed beneath the plunging jet. It is also shown that there is a corresponding decrease in wave transmission and reflection as the submergence is reduced.  相似文献   

14.
合理的刚度和潜深设计可以使升沉水平板获得优异的消浪性能。基于考虑流体黏性的二维不可压缩Navier-Stokes方程,以高阶紧致插值CIP(constrained interpolation profile)方法求解方程对流项,采用VOF(volume of fluid)方法重构自由液面,构建二维数值波浪水槽。采用试验数据验证模型后,研究孤立波与升沉水平板相互作用,分析相对刚度K*、相对潜深d/h、相对波高H/h对于升沉板的消浪性能和运动响应的影响,揭示升沉板对孤立波的消浪机理。研究表明:在孤立波通过时,升沉板会经历一个先上升后下降的运动,随后非线性自由振动,板下方水体近似均匀流动,且水流的垂向流动与板的垂荡方向一致;升沉板主要通过不对称涡旋脱落、浅水变形、波浪反射与辐射波转化等方式消耗孤立波能量;一定条件下,采用最优相对刚度K*=4.0和最优相对潜深d/h=0.52可以取得良好的消浪效果,此时透射系数最小,同时升沉板的运动响应在合理的范围内。  相似文献   

15.
In this paper, the hydrodynamic efficiency of a floating breakwater system is experimentally studied by use of physical models. Regular waves with wide ranges of wave heights and periods are tested. The efficiency of the breakwater is presented as a function of the wave transmission, reflection, and energy dissipation coefficients. Different parameters affecting the breakwater efficiency are investigated, e.g. the number of the under connected vertical plates, the length of the mooring wire, and the wave length. It is found that, the transmission coefficient kt decreases with the increase of the relative breakwater width B/L, the number of plates n and the relative wire length l/h, while the reflection coefficient kr takes the opposite trend. Therefore, it is possible to achieve kt values smaller than 0.25 and kr values larger than 0.80 when B/L is larger than 0.25 for the case of l/h-1.5 and n=4. In addition, empirical equations used for estimating the transmission and reflection coefficients are developed by using the dimensionless analysis, regression analysis and measured data and verified by different theoretical and experimental results.  相似文献   

16.
The wave transmission, reflection and energy dissipation characteristics of ‘’-type breakwaters were studied using physical models. Regular and random waves in a wide range of wave heights and periods and a constant water depth were used. Five different depths of immersion (two emerged, one surface flushing and two submerged conditions) of this breakwater were selected. The coefficient of transmission, Kt, and coefficient of reflection, Kr, were obtained from the measurements, and the coefficient of energy loss, Kl was calculated using the law of balance of energy. It was found that the wave transmission is significantly reduced with increased relative water depth, d/L, whether the vertical barrier of the breakwater is surface piercing or submerged, where ‘d’ is the water depth and ‘L’ is the wave length. The wave reflection decreases and energy loss increases with increased wave steepness, especially when the top tip of the vertical barrier of this breakwater is kept at still water level (SWL). For any incident wave climate (moderate or storm waves), the wave transmission consistently decreases and the reflection increases with increased relative depth of immersion, Δ/d from −0.142 to 0.142. Kt values less than 0.3 can be easily obtained for the case of Δ/d=+0.071 and 0.142, where Δ is the height of exposure (+ve) or depth of immersion (−ve) of the top tip of the vertical barrier. This breakwater is capable of dissipating wave energy to an extent of 50–80%. The overall performance of this breakwater was found to be better in the random wave fields than in the regular waves. A comparison of the hydrodynamic performance of ‘’-type and ‘T’-type shows that ‘T’-type breakwater is better than ‘’-type by about 20–30% under identical conditions.  相似文献   

17.
Experimental investigations on internal solitary wave (ISW) propagation and their reflection from a smooth uniform slope were conducted in a two-layered fluid system with a free surface. A 12-meter-long wave flume was in use which incorporated with: (1) a movable vertical gate for generating ISW; (2) six ultrasonic probes for measuring the fluctuation of an ISW; and (3) a steep uniform slope (from one of θ=30°, 50°, 60°, 90°, 120° and 130°) much greater than those ever published in the literature. This paper presents the wave profile properties of the ISW recorded in the flume and their nonlinear features in comparison with the existing Korteweg de Vries (KdV) and modified Korteweg-de Vries (MKdV) theories. Experimental results show that the KdV theory is suitable for most small-amplituded ISWs and MKdV theory is appropriate for the reflected ISWs from various uniform slopes. In addition, both the amplitude-based reflection coefficient and reflected energy approach a constant value asymptotically when plotted against the slope and the characteristic length ratio, respectively. The reflected wave amplitudes calculated from experimental data agree well with those reported elsewhere. The optimum reflection coefficient is found within the limit of 0.85 for wave amplitude, among the test runs from steep normal slope of 30° to inverse angle of 130°, and around 0.75 for the reflected wave energy, produced by an ISW on a vertical wall.  相似文献   

18.
The characteristics of wave damping for the vertically stratified porous breakwaters are investigated under oblique wave action. It is found that for common angles of incidence, the wave damping efficiency of a vertically stratified porous structure behaves very similar to a simple structure. The reflection coefficient decreases with increasing angle of incidence while the transmission coefficient only slightly increases as the angle of incidence increases. It is shown that the wave energy loss is in direct proportional to the structure thickness and its porosity regardless of the angle of incidence. Considering small transmission coefficient as a basic requirement and if a moderate reflection coefficient is accepted, a structure thickness of b/h=1 is proposed. In this situation, since the structure does not have a very large thickness, adopting a vertically stratified structure is not an effective way to improve its wave damping efficiency.  相似文献   

19.
Experimental study of long wave generation on sloping bottoms   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  
Low-frequency waves generated on steep (1:10) and mild (1:40) slopes by six series of bichromatic wave groups are studied experimentally. The shorelines for both slopes are replaced by horizontal reaches of small depth. This reduces the reflection of long waves near the shoreline significantly, which for the first time makes possible the explicit observation of outgoing breakpoint forced long waves. The breakpoint and released bound long wave mechanisms on the different slopes are compared. Generally, the breakpoint forced long waves dominate the low-frequency wave field on the steep slope, while the released bound long waves are found to be more significant on the mild slope. Two parameters indexing the effectiveness of the breakpoint mechanism are compared and the normalized slope tends to give more realistic results. Shoaling of bound long waves is analyzed and the shallow-water equilibrium limit ~ h−5/2 exhibits a good prediction of the variation of the bound long waves on both slopes.  相似文献   

20.
The wave friction factor is commonly expressed as a function of the horizontal water particle semi-excursion (A wb) at the top of the boundary layer. A wb, in turn, is normally derived from linear wave theory by \fracU\textwbT\textw2p \frac{{{U_{\text{wb}}}{T_{\text{w}}}}}{{2\pi }} , where U wb is the maximum water particle velocity measured at the top of the boundary layer and T w is the wave period. However, it is shown here that A wb determined in this way deviates drastically from its real value under both linear and non-linear waves. Three equations for smooth, transitional and rough boundary conditions, respectively, are proposed to solve this problem, all three being a function of U wb, T w, and δ, the thickness of the boundary layer. Because these variables can be determined theoretically for any bottom slope and water depth using the deepwater wave conditions, there is no need to physically measure them. Although differing substantially from many modern attempts to define the wave friction factor, the results coincide with equations proposed in the 1960s for either smooth or rough boundary conditions. The findings also confirm that the long-held notion of circular water particle motion down to the bottom in deepwater conditions is erroneous, the motion in fact being circular at the surface and elliptical at depth in both deep and shallow water conditions, with only horizontal motion at the top of the boundary layer. The new equations are incorporated in an updated version (WAVECALC II) of the Excel program published earlier in this journal by Le Roux et al. Geo-Mar Lett 30(5): 549–560, (2010).  相似文献   

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