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1.
We investigate how waves are transformed across a shore platform as this is a central question in rock coast geomorphology. We present results from deployment of three pressure transducers over four days, across a sloping, wide (~200 m) cliff‐backed shore platform in a macrotidal setting, in South Wales, United Kingdom. Cross‐shore variations in wave heights were evident under the predominantly low to moderate (significant wave height < 1.4 m) energy conditions measured. At the outer transducer 50 m from the seaward edge of the platform (163 m from the cliff) high tide water depths were 8+ m meaning that waves crossed the shore platform without breaking. At the mid‐platform position water depth was 5 m. Water depth at the inner transducer (6 m from the cliff platform junction) at high tide was 1.4 m. This shallow water depth forced wave breaking, thereby limiting wave heights on the inner platform. Maximum wave height at the middle and inner transducers were 2.41 and 2.39 m, respectively, and significant wave height 1.35 m and 1.34 m, respectively. Inner platform high tide wave heights were generally larger where energy was up to 335% greater than near the seaward edge where waves were smaller. Infragravity energy was less than 13% of the total energy spectra with energy in the swell, wind and capillary frequencies accounting for 87% of the total energy. Wave transformation is thus spatially variable and is strongly modulated by platform elevation and the tidal range. While shore platforms in microtidal environments have been shown to be highly dissipative, in this macro‐tidal setting up to 90% of the offshore wave energy reached the landward cliff at high tide, so that the shore platform cliff is much more reflective. Copyright © 2017 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

2.
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3.
Infragravity wave (IGW) transformation was quantified from field measurements on two shore platforms on New Zealand's east coast, making this the first study to describe the presence, characteristics and behaviour of IGWs on rock platform coasts. Data was collected using a cross‐shore array of pressure transducers during a 22 hour experiment on Oraka shore platform and a 36 hour experiment at Rothesay Bay shore platform. A low pass Fourier filter was used to remove gravity wave frequency oscillations, allowing separate analysis of IGWs and the full wave spectrum. Offshore IGW heights were measured to be 7 cm (Oraka) and 9 cm (Rothesay Bay), which were 21% (Oraka) and 7.5% (Rothesay Bay) the height of incident wave height. At the cliff toe, significant IGW height averaged 15 cm at Oraka and 13 cm at Rothesay Bay. This increase in IGW height over the platform during both experiments is attributed to shoaling of 40 to 55% over the last 50–60 m before the cliff toe, respectively. Shoaling across the platform was quantified as the change in IGW height from the platform edge to cliff toe, resulting in a maximum increase of 1·88 and 2·63 on Rothesay Bay and Oraka platforms. IGW height at the cliff toe showed a strong correlation with incident wave height. The proportional increase in IGW height shows a strong correlation to water level on each platform. The rate of shoaling of long period waves on the shallow, horizontal platforms increased at higher water levels resulting in a super elevation in water level at the cliff toe during high tide. Greater IGW shoaling was also observed on the wider (Oraka) shore platform. Results from this study show the first measurements of IGWs on shore platforms and identify long wave motion a significant process in a morphodynamic understanding of rock coast. Copyright © 2011 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

4.
We challenge the notion of steady‐state equilibrium in the context of progressive cliff retreat on micro‐tidal coasts. Ocean waves break at or close to the abrupt seaward edge of near‐horizontal shore platforms and then rapidly lose height due to turbulence and friction. Conceptual models assume that wave height decays exponentially with distance from the platform edge, and that the platform edge does not erode under stable sea‐level. These assumptions combine to a steady‐state view of Holocene cliff retreat. We argue that this model is not generally applicable. Recent data show that: (1) exponential decay in wave height is not the most appropriate conceptual model of wave decay; (2) by solely considering wave energy at gravity wave frequencies the steady‐state model neglects a possible formative role for infragravity waves. Here we draw attention to possible mechanisms through which infragravity waves may drive cliff retreat over much greater distances (and longer timescales) than imaginable under the established conceptual model. Copyright © 2013 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

5.
Concurrent observations of waves at the base of a southern California coastal cliff and seismic cliff motion were used to explore wave–cliff interaction and test proxies for wave forcing on coastal cliffs. Time series of waves and sand levels at the cliff base were extracted from pressure sensor observations programmatically and used to compute various wave impact metrics (e.g. significant cliff base wave height). Wave–cliff interaction was controlled by tide, incident waves, and beach sand levels, and varied from low tides with no wave–cliff impacts, to high tides with continuous wave–cliff interaction. Observed cliff base wave heights differed from standard Normal and Rayleigh distributions. Cliff base wave spectra levels were elevated at sea swell and infragravity frequencies. Coastal cliff top response to wave impacts was characterized using microseismic shaking in a frequency band (20–45 Hz) sensitive to wave breaking and cliff impacts. Response in the 20–45 Hz band was well correlated with wave–cliff impact metrics including cliff base significant wave height and hourly maximum water depth at the cliff base (r2 = 0.75). With site‐specific calibration relating wave impacts and shaking, and acceptable anthropogenic (traffic) noise levels, cliff top seismic observations are a viable proxy for cliff base wave conditions. The methods presented here are applicable to other coastal settings and can provide coastal managers with real time coastal conditions. Copyright © 2016 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

6.
Clifftop coastal boulders transported by storm waves or tsunamis have been reported around the world. Although numerical calculation of boulder transport is a strong tool for the identification of tsunami or storm boulders, and for estimation of the wave size emplacing boulders, models which can reasonably solve boulder transport from below a cliff or from a cliff-edge onto a cliff-top do not yet exist. In this study, we developed a new numerical formulation for cliff-top deposition of boulders from the cliff edge or below the cliff, with validation from laboratory tests. We then applied the model using storm and tsunami wave forcing to simulate the observed boulder deposits at the northwest coast of Hachijo Island, Japan. Using the model, the actual distribution of boulders was explained well using a reasonable storm wave height without assumption of anomalously high-water level by storm surge. Results show that boulder transport from the cliff edge or under the cliff onto the cliff-top was possible from a tsunami with periods of 5~10 min or storm waves with no storm surge. However, the actual distribution of boulders on the cliff was explained only by storm waves, but not by tsunami. Therefore, the boulders distributed at this site are likely of storm wave origin. Our developed model for the boulder transport calculation can be useful for identifying a boulder's origin and can reasonably calculate cliff-top deposition of boulders by tsunami and storm waves. © 2019 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd. © 2019 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

7.
In this paper we use a numerical model to explore the relative dominance of two main processes in shore platform development: wave erosion; weathering due to wetting and drying. The modelling approach differs from previous work in several aspects, including: the way that it accounts for weathering arising from gradual surficial intertidal rock degradation; subtidal profile shape development; and the consideration of a broad erosion parameter space in which, at either end of the erosion spectrum, shore platform profiles are produced by waves or weathering alone. Results show that in micro‐tidal settings, wave erosion dominates the evolution of (i) shore platforms that become largely subtidal and (ii) sub‐horizontal shore platforms that have a receding seaward edge. Weathering processes dominate the evolution of sub‐horizontal shore platforms with a stable seaward edge. In contrast, sloping shore platforms in mega‐tidal settings are produced across the full range of the process‐dominance spectrum depending on the how the erosional efficacy of wave erosion and weathering are parameterized. Morphological feedbacks control the process‐dominance. In small tidal environments wave processes are strongly controlled by the presence/absence of an abrupt seaward edge, but this influence is much smaller in large tidal environments due to larger water depths particularly at high tides. In large tidal environments, similar shore platform profile geometries can be produced by either wave‐dominant or weathering‐dominant process regimes. Equifinality in shore platform development has been noted in other studies, but mainly in the context of smaller‐scale (centimetre to metre) erosion features. Here we draw attention to geomorphic equifinality at the scale of the shore platform itself. Progress requires a greater understanding of the actual mechanics of the process regimes operating on shore platforms. However, this paper makes a substantial contribution to the debate by identifying the physical conditions that allow clear statements about process dominance. © 2018 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

8.
As an initial evaluation of the potential of digital elevation models (DEMs) and geographic information systems (GISs) for geomorphic characterization of rocky shorelines, airborne laser scan (ALS) data have been used to characterize shore platforms around Shag Point, southeastern New Zealand. The platforms have been characterized using field‐based techniques in previously published research, and therefore offer an ideal site for evaluation purposes. The main challenge involved the delineation of the shore platform area in terms of landward and seaward extents. The cliff top and landward edge of the shore platform was readily mapped, whereas the seaward edge of platforms was mapped with lesser precision due to difficulties associated with tidal inundation and the interference of wave action and surface water. In the central region of the study area (～0·1 km2) higher platform elevations and dense point cloud data enabled the generation of a high‐resolution (1 m) DEM. In analysing the DEM, ALS offered an advantage over the previous field survey in respect of the ability to assess continuous topography in plan‐view. The extent and form of two distinctive erosional surfaces is clearly apparent and was revealed through classifications based on slope and elevation. The spatial continuity of the upper surface implies that, in addition to the role of rock structure described in previous work, sea level and wave exposure may have been important factors in the generation and preservation of platform morphology at Shag Point. Copyright © 2007 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

9.
The southwest coast of England was subjected to an unusually energetic sequence of Atlantic storms during the 2013/2014 winter, with the 8‐week period from mid‐December to mid‐February representing the most energetic period since at least 1953. A regional analysis of the hydrodynamic forcing and morphological response of these storms along the SW coast of England highlighted the importance of both storm‐ and site‐specific conditions. The key factor that controls the Atlantic storm wave conditions along the south coast of southwest England is the storm track. Energetic inshore wave conditions along this coast require a relatively southward storm track which enables offshore waves to propagate up the English Channel relatively unimpeded. The timing of the storm in relation to the tidal stage is also important, and coastal impacts along the macro‐tidal southwest coast of England are maximised when the peak storm waves coincide with spring high tide. The role of storm surge is limited and rarely exceeds 1 m. The geomorphic storm response along the southwest coast of England displayed considerable spatial variability; this is mainly attributed to the embayed nature of the coastline and the associated variability in coastal orientation. On west‐facing beaches typical of the north coast, the westerly Atlantic storm waves approached the coastline shore‐parallel, and the prevailing storm response was offshore sediment transport. Many of these north coast beaches experienced extensive beach and dune erosion, and some of the beaches were completely stripped of sediment, exposing a rocky shore platform. On the south coast, the westerly Atlantic storm waves refract and diffract to become southerly inshore storm waves and for the southeast‐facing beaches this results in large incident wave angles and strong eastward littoral drift. Many south coast beaches exhibited rotation, with the western part of the beaches eroding and the eastern part accreting. © 2015 The Authors. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.  相似文献   

10.
The shore platforms on Shag Point, southern New Zealand, are quasi‐horizontal surfaces and are developed between supratidal and low water spring levels. A range of morphologies occur, with more exposed platforms having a distinct low‐tide cliff, in contrast to low‐tide surfaces where the seaward edge is buried beneath rubble and macro‐algal growth. The platforms range in width from 20 to 80 m and are eroded into Late Cretaceous/Early Tertiary fine marine sandstones and mudstones. Shore platforms have formed in two principal lithological units: a homogeneous unit that is characterized by few discontinuities, and a fractured unit with joints spaced about 0·5 m apart. Rock hardness is low in both units (L‐type Schmidt hammer rebound values of 31 ± 4), and there is little systematic variation in values between the two units in which platforms have developed. Case‐hardened concretions within the sandstone are significantly harder than surrounding rock and cause local relief of metre scale as the spherical diagenetic features are eroded from the bedrock. They do not, however, appear to affect broad‐scale platform geometry. Joints within the bedrock are a primary control on platform elevation. Platforms formed in jointed rock occur at the lower portion of the intertidal zone, in contrast to platforms formed in unjointed bedrock, in which horizontal surfaces occur at or above mean high water spring tide level. Rock structure, therefore, appears to be the primary determinant factor of platform geometry at Shag Point. Copyright © 2006 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

11.
The 1953 North Sea floods, the Big Flood, was one of the worst natural disasters in Europe in modern times and is probably one of the most studied severe coastal floods. Several factors led to the devastating storm surge along the southern North Sea coast in combination of strong and sustained northerly winds, invert barometric effect, high spring tide, and an accumulation of the large surge in the Strait of Dover. However, the storm waves and their roles during the 1953 North Sea storm surge are not well investigated. Therefore, the effect of wave setup due to breaking waves in the storm surge processes is investigated through numerical experiments. A coupled process-based tide-wave-surge model was used to investigate and simulate the storm surge in the North Sea during January 31–February 1, 1953 and validated by comparing with historical water level records at tide gauges and wave observations at light vessels in the North Sea. Meteorological forcing inputs for the period, January 27–February 3, 1953 are reproduced from ERA-20C reanalysis data with a constant correction factor for winds. From the simulation results, it is found that, in addition to the high water due to wind setup, wave setup due to breaking waves nearshore play a role of approximately 10% of the storm surge peaks with approximately 0.2 m. The resulting modeling system can be used extensively for the preparedness of the storm surge and wave of extreme condition, and usual barotropic forecast.  相似文献   

12.
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13.
Spectacular rock formations have developed in coarse, poorly sorted conglomerates and arkosic sandstones at Hopewell Rocks in the Bay of Fundy, which has the largest tidal range in the world. The average gradient of the shore platform is 3.2°, although it varies because of slight differences in rock hardness. Schmidt Rock Test Hammer measurements show that the rock is generally no more resistant in 16 stacks and in one stack-arch than in the adjacent platform and cliff. Most stacks, arch-tunnels and caves in this area result from dissection of the rock mass along prominent, well-spaced joint planes. Old photographs suggest that the stacks at Hopewell Rocks may have developed in the last 100 to 250 years. Notches are ubiquitous at the cliff foot, and they are responsible for the characteristic mushroom-shaped appearance of the stacks. Although there is no consistent relationship between the depth of notches on the seaward and landward sides of the stacks, the notches are at higher elevations on the seaward side. The deepest part of most notches is a little below the mean high tidal level, although several are up to 1 or 2 m below it, especially on the landward side of stacks. Stack morphology and notch depth change in a fairly predictable manner through time, as the stacks become increasingly isolated from the cliff. © 1998 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

14.
A mathematical model was used to study shore platform development. Mechanical wave erosion was dependent on such variables as tidal range, wave height and period, breaker height and depth, breaker type, surf zone width and bottom roughness, submarine gradient, rock resistance and the elevational frequency of wave action within the intertidal zone. Also included were the effects of sand and pebble accumulation, cliff height and debris mobility, and downwearing associated with tidal wetting and drying. The occurrence, location and thickness of beaches often depended on initially quite minor variations in platform morphology, but owing to their abrasive or protective effect on underlying rock surfaces, they were able to produce marked differences in platform morphology. Generalizations are difficult, but the model suggests that platform gradient increases with tidal range. Platform width also increases with tidal range with slow downwearing but it decreases with fast downwearing. Platform gradient decreases and width increases with wave energy, and decreasing rock resistance and platform roughness. With low tidal range, platform gradient is generally lower and platform width greater with beaches of fine sand than with gravel, but the relationship is more variable with a high tidal range. Platform width increases and platform gradient decreases with the rate of downwearing on bare surfaces, particularly in low tidal range environments, but the pattern is less clear on beach‐covered platforms. Platforms with large amounts of beach sediment tend to be narrower and steeper than bare platform surfaces. Platform gradient increases and platform width decreases with increasing cliff height and with decreasing cliff debris mobility. Copyright © 2005 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

15.
A mathematical model was used to investigate the effect of glacially induced fluctuations in sea level on the evolution of wave‐cut shore platforms and erosional continental shelves during the Quaternary. The model used two deep‐water wave sets, which were used to calculate breaker height and depth, and the force of the waves at the waterline, according to the width and bottom roughness of the surf zone and the gradient of the submarine slope. The model also incorporated an erosional threshold related to the strength of the rocks, the number of hours each year in which the water level is at each intertidal elevation and the amount and persistence of the debris at the cliff foot. Most runs were made using a sea level model that consisted of 26 glacial cycles from 2 million to 0·9 million years ago, and nine, of approximately twice the amplitude and wavelength, in the last 0·9 million years. The model emphasized the dynamic association between the contemporary intertidal platform and the continental shelf. Both surfaces trend towards a state of static equilibrium under oscillating sea level conditions, when attenuated waves are unable to continue eroding the rock. If there has not been enough time to reduce the gradient of the shallower portions of the continental shelf, however, intertidal shore platforms can be in a temporary, though possibly long‐lasting, state of dynamic equilibrium. The model suggests that most platforms are, at least in part, inherited from one, or in many cases more, interglacial stages when sea level was similar to today's. Copyright © 2001 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

16.
Spatial backshore processes were investigated through field observations of topography and median sand grain size at a sandy beach facing the Pacific Ocean in Japan. A comparison of the backshore profile and cross‐shore distribution of the median sand grain size in 1999 and 2004 revealed an unusual sedimentary process in which sand was coarsened in a depositional area in the 5‐year period, although sediment is generally coarsened in erosional areas. In support of these observations, monthly spatial field analyses carried out in 2004 demonstrated a remarkable backshore coarsening process triggered by sedimentation in the seaward part of the backshore during a storm event. In order to elucidate mechanisms involved in the backshore coarsening process, thresholds of movable sand grain size under wave and wind actions (a uniform parameter for both these cases) in the onshore and offshore directions were estimated using wave, tide, and wind data. The cross‐shore distributions of the estimated thresholds provided reasonable values and demonstrated a coarsening mechanism involving the intermediate zone around the shoreline under alternating wave and wind actions as a result of which coarse sand was transported toward the seaward part of the backshore by large waves during storms and then toward the landward part by strong onshore winds. The 5‐year backshore coarsening is most certainly explained by repetition of short‐term coarsening mechanisms caused by wave‐induced sand transport occurring from the nearshore to the intermediate zone. Copyright © 2010 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd  相似文献   

17.
In this study, an intertidal bar and trough system on the beach of Noordwijk, The Netherlands was monitored over a 15‐month period in order to examine the daily to seasonal sequential cross‐shore behaviour and to establish which conditions force or interrupt this cyclic bar behaviour. The beach morphology (bars and troughs) was classified from low‐tide Argus video images based on surface composition. From the classified images, time series of the landward boundary of the bar and of the trough were extracted. The time series of the alongshore‐averaged boundary positions described sawtooth motion with a period between 1 and 4 months, comprising gradual landward migration followed by abrupt seaward shifts. The abrupt seaward shift appeared to be a morphological reset induced by storm events, which lasted at least 30 h with a large average root‐mean‐square wave height (≥2 m) and offshore surge level (≥0·5 m), and a small trough (<20 m wide) in the pre‐storm beach morphology. The time series of the boundary positions exhibited very little longer (seasonal) scale variability, but somewhat larger smaller (daily) scale variability. The bar boundary was found to be more dynamic than the trough boundary. Copyright © 2007 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

18.
Erosion of hard‐rock coastal cliffs is understood to be caused by a combination of both marine and sub‐aerial processes. Beach morphology, tidal elevation and significant wave heights, especially under extreme storm conditions, can lead to variability in wave energy flux to the cliff‐toe. Wave and water level measurements in the nearshore under energetic conditions are difficult to obtain and in situ observations are rare. Here we use monthly cliff‐face volume changes detected using terrestrial laser scanning alongside beach morphological changes and modelled nearshore hydrodynamics to examine how exposed cliffs respond to changes in extreme wave conditions and beach morphology. The measurements cover the North Atlantic storms of 2013 to 2014 and consider two exposed stretches of coastline (Porthleven and Godrevy, UK) with contrasting beach morphology fronting the cliffs; a flat dissipative sandy beach at Godrevy and a steep reflective gravel beach at Porthleven. Beach slope and the elevation of the beach–cliff junction were found to influence the frequency of cliff inundation and the power of wave–cliff impacts. Numerical modelling (XBeach‐G) showed that under highly energetic wave conditions, i.e. those that occurred in the North Atlantic during winter 2013–2014, with Hs = 5.5 m (dissipative site) and 8 m (reflective site), the combination of greater wave height and steeper beach at the reflective site led to amplified wave run‐up, subjecting these cliffs to waves over four times as powerful as those impacting the cliffs at the dissipative site (39 kWm‐1 compared with 9 kWm‐1). This study highlighted the sensitivity of cliff erosion to extreme wave conditions, where the majority (over 90% of the annual value) of cliff‐face erosion ensued during the winter. The significance of these short‐term erosion rates in the context of long‐term retreat illustrates the importance of incorporating short‐term beach and wave dynamics into geomorphological studies of coastal cliff change. © 2017 The Authors. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.  相似文献   

19.
Coastal cliff erosion is caused by a combination of marine forcing and sub-aerial processes, but linking cliff erosion to the environmental drivers remains challenging. One key component of these drivers is energy transfer from wave–cliff interaction. The aim of this study is to directly observe cliff ground motion in response to wave impacts at an individual wave scale. Measurements are described from two coastal cliff sites: a 45-minute pilot study in southern California, USA and a 30-day deployment in Taranaki, New Zealand. Seismometers, pressure sensors and video are used to compare cliff-top ground motions with water depth, significant wave height (Hs) and wave impact types to examine cliff ground motion response. Analyses of the dataset demonstrate that individual impact events can be discriminated as discrete events in the seismic signal. Hourly mean ground motion increases with incident Hs, but the largest hourly peak ground motions occurred across a broad range of incident Hs (0.9–3.7 m), including during relatively calm conditions. Mean hourly metrics therefore smooth the short-term dynamics of wave–cliff interaction; hence, to fully assess wave impact energy transfer to cliffs, it is important also to consider peak ground motion. Video analyses showed that the dominant control on peak ground motion magnitude was wave impact type rather than incident Hs. Wave–cliff impacts where breaking occurs directly onto the cliff face consistently produced greater ground motion compared to broken or unbroken wave impacts: breaking, broken and unbroken impacts averaged peak ground motion of 287, 59 and 38 μm s−1, respectively. The results illustrate a novel link between wave impact forcing and cliff ground motion response using individual wave field measurements, and highlight the influence of wave impact type on peak energy transfer to coastal cliffs. © 2019 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd. © 2019 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

20.
Shore platforms control wave energy transformation which, in turn, controls energy delivery to the cliff toe and nearshore sediment transport. Insight into shore platform erosion rates has conventionally been constrained at millimetre-scales using micro-erosion metres, and at metre-scales using cartographic data. On apparently slowly eroding coasts, such approaches are fundamentally reliant upon long-term observation to capture emergent erosion patterns. Where in practise timescales are short, and where change is either below the resolution or saturates the mode of measurement, the collection of data that enables the identification of the actual mechanisms of erosion is hindered. We developed a method to monitor shore platform erosion at millimetre resolution within metre-scale monitoring plots using Structure-from-Motion photogrammetry. We conducted monthly surveys at 15 0.25 m2 sites distributed across the Hartle Loup platform in North Yorkshire, UK, over one year. We derived topographic data at 0.001 m resolution, retaining a vertical precision of change detection of 0.001 m. We captured a mean erosion rate of 0.528 mm yr-1, but this varied considerably both across the platform and through the year. We characterized the volume and shape of eroded material. The detachment volume–frequency and shape distributions suggest that erosion happens primarily via removal of shale platelets. We identify that the at-a-point erosion rate can be predicted by the distance from the cliff and the tidal level, whereby erosion rates are higher closer to the cliff and at locations of higher tidal duration. The size of individual detachments is controlled by local micro-topography and rock structure, whereby larger detachments are observed on more rough sections of the platform. Faster erosion rates and larger detachments occur in summer months, rather than in more energetic winter conditions. These results have the potential to form the basis of improved models of how platforms erode over both short- and long-timescales. © 2019 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

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