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1.
Temperature data collected over the last 36 years (1969–2004) in Drake Passage are used to examine interannual temperature variation and long-term trends in the upper ocean. To reduce the effect of variation from different sampling locations and temporal variability introduced by meridional shifts in the Polar Front (PF), the data were divided into two sub-regions north (3800 temperature profiles) and south (3400) of the PF. Temperature anomalies were formed by removing a temporal mean field for each profile in each sub-region at 100 m depth intervals from the surface to 700 m. North of the PF, statistically significant warming trends of 0.02 °C yr−1 were observed that were largely depth-independent between 100 and 700 m. A statistically significant cooling trend of −0.07 °C yr−1 was observed at the surface south of the PF, which was smaller (−0.04 °C yr−1) but still statistically significant when possible seasonal sampling biases were accounted for. The observed cooling at the surface and warming at depth is largely consistent with a poleward shift of the PF due to enhancement of westerly winds in the Southern Ocean, as recently suggested by models and observations. The observed annual temperature anomalies in the upper 400 m north of the PF and in the upper 100 m south of the PF are highly correlated to variability in sea ice, and also to climate indices of the Antarctic Oscillation and the El Niño Southern Oscillation. Variability in sea ice and temperature anomalies lag El Niño variability in the Pacific, with a phasing consistent with the observed cyclical patterns of sea ice and sea surface temperature associated with the Antarctic Circumpolar Wave or Antarctic Dipole Mode in the Southern Ocean. In contrast, the sea ice variability and temperature anomalies at all depths north of the PF and at 0–100 m depth south of the PF were primarily coincident with, or led the Antarctic Oscillation Index. No significant correlations were found with the large-scale climate variability indices in southern Drake Passage below 100 m depth, which is occupied by upper Circumpolar Deep Water (uCDW). This water mass is not formed locally, is largely isolated from the surface, and exhibits vertical and lateral homogeneity. Hence changes may be difficult to detect in the available measurements, and climate variation in the source water regions of uCDW may take a long time to reach Drake Passage.  相似文献   

2.
In this study, we use existing observational datasets to evaluate 20th century climate simulations of the tropical Pacific. The emphasis of our work is decadal variability of the shallow meridional overturning circulation, which links the tropical and subtropical Pacific Ocean. In observations, this circulation is characterized by equatorward geostrophic volume transport convergence in the interior ocean pycnocline across 9°N and 9°S. Historical hydrographic data indicate that there has been a decreasing trend in this convergence over the period 1953–2001 of about 11 Sverdrup (1 Sv = 106 m3 s−1), with maximum decade-to-decade variations of 7–11 Sv. The transport time series is highly anti-correlated with sea surface temperature (SST) anomalies in the central and eastern tropical Pacific, implying that variations in meridional overturning circulation are directly linked to decadal variability and trends in tropical SST. These relationships are explored in 18 model simulations of 20th century climate from 14 state-of-the-art coupled climate models. Significant correlation exists between meridional volume transport convergence and tropical SST in the majority of the models over the last half century. However, the magnitude of transport variability on decadal time scales in the models is underestimated while at the same time modeled SST variations are more sensitive to that transport variability than in the observations. The effects of the meridional overturning circulation on SST trends in most the models is less clear. Most models show no trend in meridional transport convergence and underestimate the trend in eastern tropical Pacific SST. The eddy permitting MIROCH model is the only model that reasonably reproduces the observed trends in transport convergence, tropical Pacific SST, and SST gradient along the equator over the last half century. If the observed trends and those simulated in the MIROCH model are ultimately related to greenhouse gas forcing, these results suggest that the Bjerknes feedback, by affecting pycnocline transport convergences, may enhance warming that arises from anthropogenic forcing in the eastern tropical Pacific.  相似文献   

3.
Ocean surface gravity waves play a major role in many engineering and environmental problems, both in the open ocean and in coastal zones. Therefore, it is essential to improve our knowledge on spatial and temporal variability of wave climate. This study aims at investigating this variability in the North-East Atlantic Ocean (25°W–0°W and 30°N–60° N), using a 57-year hindcast (1953–2009) obtained with a spectral wave model forced with reanalysis wind fields. The hindcast analysis reveals firstly strong seasonal fluctuations of wave climate, with winters characterized by large and long-period waves of mean direction spreading from south-west to north-west, and summers characterized by smaller and shorter-period waves originating from norther directions. From northern (55°N) to southern (35°N) latitudes, the significant wave height (Hs) decreases by roughly 40%, the mean wave direction (Mwd) rotates clockwise by about 25% while the peak period (Tp) only grows by 5%. These three parameters also exhibit a strong inter-annual variability, particularly when winter-means (from 1st of December to 1st of April) are considered. Linear trend analysis over the studied period shows spatially variable long-term trends, with a significant increase of Hs (up to 0.02 m yr?1) and a counterclockwise shift of Mwd (up to ?0.1° yr?1) at northern latitude, contrasting with a fairly constant trend for Hs and a clockwise shift of Mwd (up to +0.15° yr?1) at southern latitudes. Long-term trends of Tp are less significant, with still a slight increase in the north-eastern part of the study area (up to +0.01 s yr?1). Eventually, a comparison between the inter-annual variability of the winter-means of the three selected wave parameters and the North Atlantic Oscillation (NAO) reveals: (1) a strong positive correlation between Hs and the NAO index at northern latitudes (correlation coefficient up to R = 0.91) and a significant negative correlation at southern latitudes (up to R = ?0.6); (2) no significant correlation for Mwd north of 40°N and a clear positive correlation southward of 40°N (up to R = 0.8) and (3) a northward increasing correlation for Tp (up to R = 0.8). Long-term trends for Hs, Mwd and Tp are finally explained by a significant increase in the NAO index over the studied period.  相似文献   

4.
At interannual to multidecadal time scales, much of the oceanographic and climatic variability in the North Atlantic Ocean can be associated with the North Atlantic Oscillation (NAO). While evidence suggests that there is a relationship between the NAO and zooplankton dynamics in the North Atlantic Ocean, the phytoplankton response to NAO-induced changes in the environment is less clear. Time series of monthly mean phytoplankton colour values, as compiled by the Continuous Plankton Recorder (CPR) survey, are analysed to infer relationships between the NAO and phytoplankton dynamics throughout the North Atlantic Ocean. While a few areas display highly significant (p < 0.05) trends in the CPR colour time series during the period 1948–2000, nominally significant (p < 0.20) positive trends are widespread across the basin, particularly on the continental shelves and in a transition zone stretching across the Central North Atlantic. When long-term trends are removed from both the NAO index and CPR colour time series, the correlation between them ceases to be significant. Several hypotheses are proposed to explain the observed variability in the CPR colour and its relationship with climate in the North Atlantic.  相似文献   

5.
The degree to which incident wind waves are attenuated over intertidal surfaces is critical to the development of coastal wetlands, which are, amongst other processes, affected by the delivery, erosion, and/or resuspension of sediment due to wave action. Knowledge on wave attenuation over saltmarsh surfaces is also essential for accurate assessments of their natural sea-defence value to be made and incorporated into sea defence and management schemes. The aim of this paper is to evaluate the use of a digital photographic method for the quantification of marsh vegetation density and then to investigate the relative roles played by hydrodynamic controls and vegetation density/type in causing the attenuation of incident waves over a macro-tidal saltmarsh.Results show that a significant statistical relationship exists between the density of vegetation measured in side-on photographs and the dry biomass of the photographed vegetation determined through direct harvesting. The potential of the digital photographic method for the spatial and temporal comparison of marsh surface vegetation biomass, density, and canopy structure is highlighted and the method was applied to assess spatial and seasonal differences in vegetation density and their effect on wave attenuation at three locations on a macro-tidal saltmarsh on Dengie Peninsula, Essex, UK. In this environmental setting, vegetation density/type did not have a significant direct effect on wave attenuation but modified the process of wave transformation under different hydrodynamic conditions. At the two locations, characterised by a relatively tall canopy (15–26 cm) with biomass values of 430–500 g m−2, dominated by Spartina spp. (>70% of total dry biomass), relative incident wave height (wave height/water depth) is identified as a statistically significant dominant positive control on wave attenuation up to a threshold value of 0.55, beyond which wave attenuation showed no significant further increase. At the third location, characterised by only slightly less biomass (398 g m−2) but a shorter (6 cm) canopy of the annual Salicornia spp., no significant relationship existed between wave attenuation and relative wave height. Seasonally (between September and December) significant temporal increase/decrease in vegetation density occurred in one of the Spartina canopies and in the Salicornia canopy, respectively, and led to an expected (but not statistically significant) increase/decrease in wave attenuation. The wider implications of these findings in the context of form–process interactions on saltmarshes and their effect on marsh evolution are also discussed.  相似文献   

6.
Change of shoreline wave climate caused by the installation of a wave farm is assessed using the SWAN wave model. The 30 MW-rated wave farm is called the ‘Wave Hub’ and will be located 20 km off the north coast of Cornwall, UK. Changes in significant wave height and mean wave period due to the presence of the Wave Hub are presented. The results suggest that the shoreline wave climate will be affected, although the magnitude of effects decreases linearly as wave energy transmitted increases. At probable wave energy transmission levels, the predicted change in shoreline wave climate is small.  相似文献   

7.
This study aims at showing the sedimentary and geomorphological records of wave climate variations by spits. The studied spit (Arçay Spit) is located on the French Atlantic coast and has displayed a rapid elongation since the beginning of the 19th century that potentially represents a two century-long wave climate record. Wave climate and spit growth relationships are studied from two complementary methods: (1) numerical modelling of wave and longshore transport temporal and spatial variabilities, and (2) morphological monitoring based on the analysis of 4 historical maps (1811–1945), 8 aerial photographs (1945–2000) and 17 satellite SPOT images (1987–2005).Results at seasonal to interannual time-scales show that the sand spit area gain variations are the result of variations in longshore transport, themselves modulated mainly by wave height. Moreover, energetic swells seem to cause massive sand accumulation and spit elongation, whereas less energetic swells appear to be responsible for small sand accumulation and spit curvature. At longer time scale (decades to centuries), increasing spit growth phases are also synchronised with periods of energetic swells or high storm surge frequency. These results suggest that wave climate variations are the main factor controlling spit morphological evolutions.  相似文献   

8.
Sea surface salinity (SSS) data in the Atlantic Ocean is investigated between 50°N and 30°S based on data collected mostly during the period 1977–2002. Monthly mapping of SSS is done to extract the large-scale variability. This mapped variability indicates fairly long (seasonal) time scales outside the equatorial region. The spatial scales of the seasonal anomalies are regional, but not basin-wide (typically 500–1000 km). These seasonal SSS anomalies are found to respond with a 1–2 month lag to freshwater flux anomalies at the air–sea interface or to the horizontal Ekman advection. This relation presents a seasonal cycle in the northern subtropics and north-east Atlantic indicating that the late-boreal spring/summer season is less active than the boreal winter/early-spring season in forcing the seasonal SSS variability. In the north-eastern mid-latitude Atlantic, SSS is positively correlated to SST, with SSS slightly lagging SST. There are noticeable long-lasting larger-scale signals overlaid on this regional variability. Part of it is related to known climate signals, for example ENSO and NAO. A linear trend is present during the first half of the period in some parts of the basin (usually towards increasing salinities, at least between 20°N and 45°N). Based on a linear regression analysis, these signals combined can locally represent up to 20% of SSS variance (in particular near 30°N/60°W or 40°N/10–30°W), but usually represent less than 10% of the variance.  相似文献   

9.
To unravel the relation between hydrodynamic forcing and the dynamics of the tidal flat–salt-marsh ecosystem, we compared hydrodynamic forcing in terms of proxies relevant to bed sediment motion for four tidal flat–salt-marsh ecosystems that were contrasting in terms of wind exposure (sheltered vs. exposed) and lateral development (shrinking vs. expanding). Wave and current field measurements on these four contrasting tidal flat and salt-marsh ecosystems indicated that the hydrodynamic forcing on the bottom sediment (bed shear stress) was strongly influenced by wind-generated waves, more so than by tidal- or wind-drive currents. The measurements further showed that the hydrodynamic forcing decreased considerably landward of the marsh cliff, highlighting a transition from vigorous (tidal flat and pioneer zone) to sluggish (mature marsh) fluid forcing. Spatial wave modeling using measured wind, revealed that the time-integrated wave forcing on the intertidal mudflat in front of the marsh (i.e., the potential bed sediment pickup) was a factor two higher for salt marshes that are laterally shrinking than for laterally expanding marshes, regardless of whether these marshes were exposed to or sheltered from the wind. The same result could not be obtained from a straightforward wind speed and fetch length approach for estimating wave forcing. This confirmed that wave force estimates required spatial modeling to be consistent with the sites trends of shrinking or expanding marshes and wind exposure is not enough to characterize the wave forcing at these sites.  相似文献   

10.
In recent decades it has been recognized that in the North Atlantic climatic variability has been largely driven by atmospheric forcing related to the North Atlantic Oscillation (NAO). The NAO index began a pronounced decline around 1950 to a low in the 1960s. From 1970 onward the NAO index increased to its most extreme and persistent positive phase during the late 1980s and early 1990s. Changes in the pattern of the NAO have differential impacts on the opposite sides of the North Atlantic and differential impacts in the north and south. The changes in climate resulting from changes in the NAO appear to have had substantial impacts on marine ecosystems, in particular, on fish productivity, with the effects varying from region to region. An examination of several species and stocks, e.g. gadoids, herring and plankton in the Northeast Atlantic and cod and shellfish in the Northwest Atlantic, indicates that there is a link between long-term trends in the NAO and the productivity of various components of the marine ecosystem. While broad trends are evident, the mechanisms are poorly understood. Further research is needed to improve our understanding of how this climate variability affects the productivity of various components of the North Atlantic marine ecosystem.  相似文献   

11.
Time series of observations of the sea surface temperature (SST) at 12 stations in the Dutch coastal zone are analyzed to establish whether an earlier published nearly 150 year long SST time series from the Marsdiep tidal inlet is representative for the whole Dutch coastal zone. The annual cycles (SST range and phase) as well as the long-term SST trends at decadal scales from other estuaries agree with the Marsdiep time series. An increasing SST trend since 1982 is a phenomenon of the whole Dutch coastal zone. In order to increase the understanding of the causes of the observed SST variability, a multiple linear regression model is constructed, which links locally determined seasonal meteorological and oceanographic forcing factors to the seasonal mean SST. The oceanographic forcing factor is the SST value from the preceding season, representing persistence due to thermal inertia of the sea. Season to season changes of the atmospheric circulation, connected with SST variability, are represented by seasonal mean wind components as forcing factors, e.g. the western winds in winter which bring relatively warm air masses to Western Europe. For the seasons where shortwave solar radiation is the dominant term in the local heat budget (spring and summer), the number of bright sun hours is used as forcing factor, roughly representing the effects of changing cloudiness. The annual mean SST, derived from the regression models for the four seasons, applied to 4 locations along the Dutch coast, correlates quite well, not only for the year to year variability (R = 0.88) but also for the longer-term SST trends (R = 0.95). An explicit local greenhouse effect is not required as separate forcing factor to explain the recent warming trend of Dutch coastal waters starting in the early 1980s; coincident variations in wind statistics and cloudiness are a sufficient explanation.  相似文献   

12.
The morphological impact of storms on coastal accumulations varies considerably in space along the coast of western France. At some locations, the storm produces erosion, whereas at others, impacts may vary from erosion to accumulation, or no effect. This is explained by the variability of incident waves. Wave amplitude variability, cross-checked with wave direction variability, is presented on a phase diagram and shows that the response of the coast is not linked to the absolute values reached during the storm, but to changes in wave patterns that take place during the event. The morphology of the bottom (skerries, banks) is greatly forcing these changes because of the high tidal range and the complicated and fast-changing patterns of refraction. Locations with a flat seafloor have an almost predictable response to storms. Places with a complex submarine morphology have a response characterized by high variability. The variability of the wave pattern during a half tidal cycle storm (from low tide at 1 m to high tide at 13 m in 6 h) is a microscale equivalent of the variability of wave patterns changing during sea level rise in the Holocene (from −7 to 0 m in 6 ka). This fact explains why, during the late Holocene, the same locations (1) have displayed a very chaotic response to sea level rise and (2) are displaying, today, a highly variable response to storms. In that respect, seafloor morphology is a mesoscale to macroscale control on beach/barrier behaviour.  相似文献   

13.
The extreme significant wave heights and the corresponding wave periods were predicted for return periods of 12, 25, 50, 100 and 200 yr for 19 different locations in Kuwaiti territorial waters. Though the total coast length of Kuwait is only about 500 km including all islands and the total area of the Kuwaiti territorial water is about 7611 km2, the extreme significant wave height vary from 1.86 to 4.02 m for 100 yr return period, among these 19 locations. In general Weibull distribution is found to fit the data well compared to the Gumbel distribution. The input wave data for the present work is obtained by hind casting waves using a WAM model. Wave data is hindcasted for a total period of 12 yr, starting from 1 January 1993 to 31 December 2004. From the joint probability of wave height and wave period, a simple polynomial relationship is obtained between the significant wave height and mean period for all the 19 locations. It is found that the wave period for wave heights of 100 yr return period cannot exceed 6.5 s. A large number of coastal projects are in progress and many new projects are planned for the near future in the Kuwaiti territorial waters. The results of the present study will be highly useful for optimal design of these projects.  相似文献   

14.
Changes in the air–sea freshwater flux (equivalently Precipitation minus Evaporation, P − E) over the interior of the Labrador Sea have been examined using the NCEP/NCAR and ERA40 reanalyses. A major increase in the net precipitation, equivalent to 9 cm yr−1, is observed in the mid-1970s, consistent with a recent study that reported a similar change in the eastern sub-polar gyre. The increase in the Labrador Sea is primarily driven by changes in the P component which occur in spring (and to a lesser extent summer). The seasonality of the change is markedly different to that found for the eastern gyre which had a strong winter increase in precipitation. Potential links between the Labrador Sea P − E increase and the NAO and other leading modes of atmospheric variability have been explored, but it has been found that the increase is not driven by long-term trends in these modes. The magnitudes of the increase in freshwater content for a range of depths (500, 1000, 1500, 2000 m) in the Labrador Sea are then calculated. Finally, it is suggested that the P − E increase must have played some role in causing the observed freshening of the Labrador Sea and the wider North Atlantic sub-polar gyre region in recent decades, although the exact impact can not be quantified.  相似文献   

15.
According to coastal measurements, global mean sea-level has risen at a rate of 1.8 mm yr−1 between 1950 and 2000, with large spatial variability at regional scales. Within the Bay of Biscay, trends computed from coastal tide gauges records have revealed that sea-level rise is accelerating over this period of time; this is in agreement with rates obtained from satellite imagery in the open ocean since 1993. The objectives of the present study are: (1) to assess the evidence of the relative sea-level rise on coastal morphology and habitats in the Gipuzkoan littoral zone (Basque coast, northern Spain) for the period 1954–2004, and (2) to evaluate the relative contribution of local anthropogenic versus sea-level rise impacts for explaining inter-supratidal habitat changes. A high-resolution airborne laser altimetry data (LIDAR) has been used to derive a Digital Terrain Model (DTM) of 15-cm vertical resolution. Coastal habitats were mapped for two periods, using historic airborne photography (1954) and high-resolution imagery (2004). Analysis of tide gauge records from Santander (northern Spain) has revealed that relative mean sea-level has been rising at a rate of 2.08 ± 0.33 mm yr−1 from 1943 to 2004; this is consistent with sea-level trends from other measurements within the area (St. Jean de Luz and Bilbao), obtained over shorter periods of time, and with previous results obtained in the Bay of Biscay. Based upon this sea-level trend and by means of a LIDAR-based DTM, the results have indicated that the predicted change along the Gipuzkoan coast due to sea-level rise was of 11.1 ha within the 50-yr period. In contrast, comparison of historical and recent orthophotography has detected only 2.95 ha of change, originated possibly from sea-level rise, and 98 ha transformed by anthropogenic impacts. Hence, coastal changes due to sea-level rise might be overwhelmed by excessive human impacts, at the spatial and temporal scales of the analysis. This work highlights that local anthropogenic impact is the major threat to Basque coastal and estuarine habitats, compared with natural erosive processes and global climate change driving forces over recent times.  相似文献   

16.
Turbot (Psetta maxima Linnaeus) is a high value commercially exploited marine flatfish which occurs in European waters, from the Northeast Atlantic to the Arctic Circle, the Baltic and Mediterranean Sea. In Ireland, turbot are the most valuable commercial non-quota species. Very little is known about their population dynamics in the wild, in particular during the sandy beach nursery phase of the life history. In 2000, a survey was established to assess flatfish species on nursery grounds on the west coast of Ireland. Eleven sandy beaches were assessed for 0+ turbot by beach seining, over an eight year period (2000–2007) during the months of August and September. The objective of the study was to estimate juvenile turbot abundance and size structure to determine if any spatial and annual trends existed. Large scale variability in the recruitment of fish to nursery grounds may be indicative of fluctuations in the adult stock. Turbot were found to recruit to five beaches consistently over the eight year period. Temporal and spatial variability in the relative abundance and length of turbot was discerned, with no apparent overall trend. However, certain nursery grounds were shown in most of the years examined to support higher abundances of turbot in comparison to other areas over the eight year period. Turbot abundances on nursery grounds were significantly correlated with mean spring sea temperatures during the pelagic stage. The condition of turbot did not significantly differ on an annual or spatial scale. Mean densities of 0+ turbot along the Irish coast were found to be similar and at times higher than other areas in Europe, ranging from 0.1 (± 0.3) individuals 1000 m− 2 to 18.5 (± 6.9) individuals 1000 m− 2. Mean turbot total length on beaches ranged from 3.8 cm (± 0.6) to 6.6 cm (± 4.3). The observed spatial and temporal variability in abundance and length highlights the need for long-term studies when assessing juvenile flatfish populations. Results from the present study have provided much needed baseline data on wild juvenile turbot populations which is severely lacking for this species both on an Irish and on a European scale.  相似文献   

17.
Elkhorn Slough is a small estuary in Central California, where nutrient inputs are dominated by runoff from agricultural row crops, a golf course, and residential development. We examined the variability in nutrient concentrations from decadal to hourly time scales in Elkhorn Slough to compare forcing by physical and biological factors. Hourly data were collected using in situ nitrate analyzers and water quality data sondes, and two decades of monthly monitoring data were analyzed. Nutrient concentrations increased from the mid 1970s to 1990s as pastures and woodlands were converted to row crops and population increased in the watershed. Climatic variability was also a significant factor controlling interannual nutrient variability, with higher nutrient concentrations during wet than drought years. Elkhorn Slough has a Mediterranean climate with dry and rainy seasons. Dissolved inorganic nitrogen (DIN) concentrations were relatively low (10–70 μmol L−1) during the dry season and high (20–160 μmol L−1) during the rainy season. Dissolved inorganic phosphorus (DIP) concentrations showed the inverse pattern, with higher concentrations during the dry season. Pulsed runoff events were a consistent feature controlling nitrate concentrations during the rainy season. Peak nitrate concentrations lagged runoff events by 1 to 6 days. Tidal exchange with Monterey Bay was also an important process controlling nutrient concentrations, particularly near the mouth of the Slough. Biological processes had the greatest effect on nitrate concentrations during the dry season and were less important during the rainy season. While primary production was enhanced by nutrient pulses, chlorophyll a concentrations were not. We believe that the generally weak biological response compared to the strong physical forcing in Elkhorn Slough occurred because the short residence time and tidal mixing rapidly diluted nutrient pulses.  相似文献   

18.
This paper provides an overview of a new large scale laboratory data set on the kinematics of breaking tsunami wavefronts. The aim of the experiments was to provide an open access data set for model testing, calibration and verification, with particular emphasis on fluid kinematics in the wave breaking and run-up (swash) zones. The experiments were performed over a composite slope in the tsunami wave basin at the O. H. Hinsdale Wave Research Laboratory at Oregon State University. Data for ten different wave conditions were collected, including non-breaking and breaking waves, and both shore breaks and fully developed long bores.Surface elevation and fluid kinematics were measured with a closely spaced array of surface piercing wave gauges, non-contact ultrasonic wave gauges and four 3-D side-looking Acoustic Doppler Velocimeters. The array was traversed from the nearshore (depth = 0.2 m) to the middle and upper run-up zone, providing kinematic data at 30 cross-shore locations. Video was also recorded from 4 cameras covering the propagation, breaking and run-up zones. Surface elevation, flow velocities and the wave maker displacement were also recorded to provide offshore boundary conditions.The experiments include conditions with wave heights up to 0.55 m, notional wave periods up to 20 s and run-up lengths of up to 15.2 m on a 1/30 slope. In terms of the slope in the shoaling and breaker zones, the data correspond to Iribarren numbers in the range of 0.26–5.6. Raw, calibrated and processed data are stored with open access within the OSU Tsunami Wave Basin Experiment Notebook, which provides full access to all the wave maker control signals, data, instrument coordinates, and processing and plotting software. This paper serves as an introduction to the data set, demonstrates data quality and provides an initial analysis of some key parameters that govern the impact of tsunami events, including run-up versus offshore wave conditions and nearshore bore height, the maximum inundation depths at the original shoreline position, and the time to maximum inundation depth and flow reversal. Examples of temporal and convective accelerations and turbulent flow components are also presented to illustrate further details of the kinematics.  相似文献   

19.
Wave attenuation by vegetation is a highly dynamic process and its quantification is important for understanding shore protection potential and modeling coastal hydrodynamics. Data documenting the interactions of Spartina alterniflora, represented by polyolefin tubing, and single- and double-peaked irregular waves were collected in a large-scale laboratory flume. The laboratory provided a controlled environment to evaluate wave attenuation, including the parameters of stem density, submergence, wave height, and peak period. Wave attenuation appeared to be most dependent on stem density and the ratio of stem length to water depth. Wave attention increased slightly with wave height while no clear trend with respect to wave period was seen. Treating double-peaked spectra as superimposed wave systems revealed a preferential dissipation of the higher-frequency wave system relative to the lower-frequency wave system under emergent conditions. Wave energy loss occurred at all frequencies of both spectral types, with dissipation increasing with frequency above the spectral peak. Parameterizing the spectral equilibrium range as a function of frequency showed a steepening of the spectral tail compared to the − 4 power law under emergent conditions. An empirical relationship defining the bulk drag coefficient for S. alterniflora as a function of the stem Reynolds number is found to serve as a first estimate for engineering applications.  相似文献   

20.
A lift based cycloidal wave energy converter (WEC) was investigated using potential flow numerical simulations in combination with viscous loss estimates based on published hydrofoil data. This type of wave energy converter consists of a shaft with one or more hydrofoils attached eccentrically at a radius. The main shaft is aligned parallel to the wave crests and submerged at a fixed depth. The operation of the WEC as a wave-to-shaft energy converter interacting with straight crested waves was estimated for an actual ocean wave climate. The climate chosen was the climate recorded by a buoy off the north-east shore of Oahu/Hawaii, which was a typical moderate wave climate featuring an average annual wave power PW = 17 kWh/m of wave crest. The impact of the design variables radius, chord, span and maximum generator power on the average annual shaft energy yield, capacity factor and power production time fraction were explored. In the selected wave climate, a radius R = 5 m, chord C = 5 m and span of S = 60 m along with a maximum generator power of PG = 1.25 MW were found to be optimal in terms of annual shaft energy yield. At the design point, the CycWEC achieved a wave-to-shaft power efficiency of 70%. In the annual average, 40% of the incoming wave energy was converted to shaft energy, and a capacity factor of 42% was achieved. These numbers exceeded the typical performance of competing renewables like wind power, and demonstrated that the WEC was able to convert wave energy to shaft energy efficiently for a range of wave periods and wave heights as encountered in a typical wave climate.  相似文献   

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