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1.
The frequency spectrum of surface elevations in the presence of wind waves is well known. On this basis, one can estimate the frequency spectrum of vertical velocities in sea-surface waves. Owing to liquid incompressibility, the spectrum of horizontal velocities should have the same frequency dependence. The use of the dispersion equation for waves on the surface of a heavy liquid allows one to obtain to the spatial spectrum of velocities. Therefore, one can estimate the spatial structure function of the velocity field. For short waves and large depths, the structure function increases as r 1/2, where r is the distance between the points of observations. For long waves and shallow depths h, this increase is proportional to r. The coefficient of turbulent mixing K(r) of pollution spots of size r on the sea surface is now estimated as the product of the spot size and the rms difference of velocities. As a result, depending on r and h, the exponent in the r n dependence of K(r) may vary between 1.25 and 1.5. This outcome provides an explanation for a scatter in the values of the exponent n, a phenomenon that has been observed by many experimentalists.  相似文献   

2.
The formation of a stationary (equilibrium) range in a wind-wave spectrum is investigated by numerical simulation. The equation of evolution of the wind-wave spectrum is solved using the exact calculation of the Hasselmann kinetic integral and involving various modifications of known parameterizations of the mechanisms of wave pumping by wind (In) and of wave dissipation (Dis). It is shown that it is these two mechanisms that are responsible for the shape of the stationary range of the wind-wave spectrum, whereas the nonlinear mechanism plays a stabilizing but subsidiary role. With an appropriate choice of mathematical representations for In and Dis, any known empirical shape of the stationary range of the spectrum can be obtained. During the calculations it is found that, for real wind waves, the known representations of In and Dis do not ensure the existence of the inertial interval required for Kolmogorov-type spectra formation due to the nonlinear interactions between waves.  相似文献   

3.
在Gaussian波场基础上,推导出以P-M谱和平均JONSWAP谱代表的充分成长和有限风区的深水风浪平均波长与平均波周期之间的关系为.推导中运用了Rice跨零点问题的解并通过滑动时间平均技术估计4阶谱矩.在风浪水槽进行了实验,实验结果与有限风区下推导出的关系相比较,符合较好.  相似文献   

4.
This paper presents the results of observation on the development of wind-waves which were generated in a lake water about 420 cm deep with a fetch 12 km long. Measurements of surface elevation were carried out at the end of an observational pier where the water depth was 80 cm. The wave momentum flux, i.e., the growth rate of the wave momentum, was estimated from both significant waves and power spectral densities for the wave records. The values obtained by the two ways accorded fairly well and they were 57 % as large as the wind stress measured simultaneously. The exponential growth rate of spectral densities for a frequency component was in good accord with that observed bySnyder andCox (1966) and by others. If these growth rates are applied to all the components of the spectrum, the wave momentum flux must exceed the wind stress. This cannot explain the experimental results nor can be physically accepted. The difference of spectral densities between the two successive runs showed that the increase of spectral densities was. limited in several bands of frequency. The phenomena are discussed in relation with the overshoot-undershoot effects studied byBarnett andSutherland (1968).Observational results suggest that the spectral growth of a certain component is closely related to the spectral densities of other components. Energy exchange among componented waves has not been considered in the theories for generation and development of wind-waves established by Phillips, Miles and others.New generation mechanism suggested byLonguet-Higgins (1969) was found to be able to describe the observed growth rates of the form(f)={(1/2)(t–t1/2)}2: the spectral density(f) was proportional to the square of durationt. However, the mechanism can not explain the overshoot-undershoot effects peculiar to the equilibrium spectrum of windwaves.Three frequencies characterizing the discrete distributions of frequency bands where spectral densities increased were examined and three waves corresponding to these frequencies were found to be satisfying the resonance conditions for the wave-wave interactions among three sinusoidal wave trains as studied byPhillips (1960),Longuet-Higgins (1962) andBenny (1962). The interactions are suggested to predict well both the spectral growth proportional to squares of duration and the ceaseless oscillations of spectral densities in an equilibrium spectrum.  相似文献   

5.
The structure of the turbulent boundary layer underneath laboratory wind waves was studied by using a combination of a high-sensitivity thermometer array with a two-component sonic flowmeter. The temperature fluctuations are used to detect movements of water parcels, with temperature as a passive quantity. The turbulence energy was dominant in the frequency range (0.01 0.1 Hz), which was much smaller than the wind-wave frequency (2 5 Hz), and in which the turbulence was anisotropic. There was a frequency range (0.2 2 Hz for velocity, 0.2 5 Hz for temperature fluctuation) where the turbulence was isotropic and had a –5/3 slope in the energy spectrum. These points are the same as those in previous works. However, by analyses of the time series by using a variable-interval time-averaging technique (VITA), it has been found that conspicuous events in this main turbulence energy band are the downward bursting from the vicinity of the water surface. Thus the structure of the water layer underneath the wind waves has characters which are similar to the familiar turbulent boundary layer over a rough solid wall, as already conceived. It has been found that, at the same time, the turbulence energy can be related to quantities of the wind waves (the root mean squared water level fluctuation and the wave peak frequency), for different wind and wave conditions. That is, the turbulence underneath the wind waves develops under a close coupling with the wind waves.  相似文献   

6.
This paper presents a technique to generate waves at oblique angles in finite difference numerical models in a rectangular grid system by using internal generation technique [Lee, C., Suh, K.D., 1998. Internal generation of waves for time-dependent mild-slope equations. Coast. Eng. 34, 35–57.] along an arc-shaped line source. Tests were made for four different types of wave generation layouts. Quantitative experiments were conducted under the following conditions: the propagation of waves on a flat bottom, the refraction and shoaling of waves on a planar slope, and the diffraction of waves to a semi-infinite breakwater. Numerical experiments were conducted using the extended mild-slope equations of Suh et al. [Suh, K.D., Lee, C., Park, W.S., 1997. Time-dependent equations for wave propagation on rapidly varying topography. Coast. Eng. 32, 91–117.]. The fourth layout type consisting of two parallel lines connected to a semicircle showed the best solutions, especially for a small grid size. This technique is useful for the numerical simulation of irregular waves with broad-banded directional spectrum using conventional spectral wave models for the reasonable estimation of bottom friction and wave-breaking.  相似文献   

7.
A coastal ocean -coordinate model of Monterey Bay (MOB) with realistic bottom topography and coastlines is developed using the Princeton Ocean Model (POM) and grid generation technique (GGT) to study the horizontal pressure gradient errors associated with the MOB steep topography. The submarine canyon in MOB features some of the steepest topography encountered anywhere in the world oceans. The MOB grids are designed using the EAGEAL View and GENIE++ grid generation systems. A grid package developed by Ly and Luong (1993) is used in this study to couple grids to the model. The MOB model is tested with both orthogonal and curvilinear nearly-orthogonal (CNO) grids. The CNO grid has horizontal resolution which varies from 300 m to 2 km, while the resolution of the orthogonal grid is uniform with x = 1.25 km and y = 1.38 km. These grids cover a domain of 180 × 160 km with the same number of grid points of 131 × 131. Vertical resolutions of 25, 35 and 45 vertical sigma levels are tested. The error in the MOB are evaluated in terms of mean kinetic energy and velocity against various grids, vertical, horizontal resolution and distributions, and bottom topography smoothing. Simulations with various grids show that GGT can be used as another tool in reducing -coordinate errors in coastal ocean modeling besides increasing resolution and smoothing bottom topography. Topographical smoothing not only reduces topographic slope, but changes realistic topography. A CNO grid with a high grid density packed along steep slopes and Monterey Submarine Canyon reduces the errors by 40% compared to a rectangular grid with the same number of grid points. The CNO grid is more efficient than the rectangular grid, since it has most of its grids over water. The simulations show that the presented MOB -coordinate model can be used with a confidence regarding horizontal pressure gradient error.  相似文献   

8.
Local balance in the air-sea boundary processes   总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2  
A combination of the three-second power law, presented in part I for wind waves of simple spectrum, and the similarity of the spectral form of wind waves, leads to a new concept on the energy spectrum of wind waves. It is well substantiated by data from a wind-wave tunnel experiment.In the gravity wave range, the gross form of the high frequency side of the spectrum is proportional tog u * –4, whereg represents the acceleration of gravity,u * the friction velocity, the angular frequency, and the factor of proportionality is 2.0×l0–2. The wind waves grow in such a way that the spectrum slides up, keeping its similar form, along the line of the gross form, on the logarithmic diagram of the spectral density,, versus. Also, the terminal value of, at the peak frequency of the fully developed sea, is along a line of the gradient ofg 2 –5.The fine structure of the spectrum from the wind-wave tunnel experiment shows a characteristic form oscillating around the –4-line. The excess of the energy density concentrates around the peak frequency and the second- and the third-order harmonics, and the deficit occurs in the middle of these frequencies. This form of the fine structure is always similar in the gravity wave range, in purely controlled conditions such as in a wind-wave tunnel. Moving averages of these spectra tend very close to the form proportional to –5.As the wave number becomes large, the effect of surface tension is incorporated, and the –4-line in the gravity wave range gradually continues to a –8/3-line in the capillary wave range, in accordance with the wind-wave tunnel data. Likewise, the –5-line gradually continues to a –7/3-line.Also, through a discussion on these results, is suggested the existence of a kind of general similarity in the structure of wind wave field.  相似文献   

9.
The spectral energy balance in the wind-wave spectrum is studied with taking into account the energy input from turbulent wind to waves, the energy rearrangement due to conservative nonlinear wave-wave interaction and the energy dissipation due to water turbulence. Using the Ichikawa's (1978) model on the turbulent wind field over wind-waves and assuming that the energy dissipation is times greater than that due to molecular viscosity of water, the energy input and dissipation are determined so as to satisfy the condition that the nonlinear-transfers of momentum and energy conserve the total momentum and energy of waves. The nonlinear energy-transfer is estimated from the energy balance at each frequency. It is found that the energy input and dissipation satisfying the condition on the conservative nonlinear-transfer are determined by the characteristic height of wind-wave field and the friction velocity of air, and that the spectral distribution of the nonlinear energy-transfer estimated in this paper is qualitatively similar to that estimated by the non-linear wave-wave interaction theory ofHasselmann (1962).  相似文献   

10.
Past observations and theories have indicated the importance of the constitution of the lowest-mode of shelf waves to the velocity field. However, significant contributions of the higher mode waves to current velocity fluctuations in the vicinity of the coast are suggested in observational results obtained along the Fukushima coast in Pt. I of this study (Kubota et al., 1981). To understand the importance of the higher modes, the generation of shelf waves is investigated theoretically by two methods. First, the generation of long shelf waves by monochromatic forcing is examined, and it is concluded that near the coast the second mode's contribution to the longshore velocity is the largest for the Fukushima coast. Second, the response of shelf waves to broad-band forcing is investigated by taking the dispersive characteristics of shelf waves into consideration. It is concluded that shelf waves with zero group velocity are selectively excited if the forcing has a broad-band spectrum. According to observational results obtained along the Fukushima coast, the wind spectrum has a broad peak at about 100 hours (Kubota et al., 1981). Since the third mode of shelf waves has zero group velocity around the period of 100 hours, the third mode can be selectively generated off the Fukushima coast. From this it is suggested that the Fukushima coast is in the forced region and that observed current fluctuations are motions associated with the second- and third-mode shelf waves.  相似文献   

11.
Phase velocity of semi-diurnal internal waves is determined from differences between phases at three stations which were situated to form a triangle in the vicinity of sta. T (29N, 135E). The wave phases are estimated from temporal variations in depths of isotherms obtained from serial measurements of vertical temperature profiles at these stations. The measurements were carried out in cooperative operation of two vessels, the R. V.Tansei-maru and theNojima, during the period from 30 July to 1 August 1965. Wave propagation with the speed of about 2 m/s in the direction from east to west is obtained as an average over several isotherms of temperature from 19C to 23C. The area of measurement is to the west of Izu-Mariana ridge and the distance from the ridge to the station is about 500 km, which would be about 5 times as large as the wave length of the internal waves under consideration, and so it is possible to suppose that the internal waves observed generated at the ridge and propagated to the area without being subjected to serious refraction, scattering, reflection and decay.  相似文献   

12.
Wind and wind-generated waves were measured in a wind-wave tank. A clear transition was found in the relation between the wind speed U 10 and the wind friction velocity u * near u * = 0.2 m/s, where U 10 is the wind speed at 10 m height extrapolated from the measured wind profile in a logarithmic layer, and u * = 0.2 m/s corresponds roughly to U 10 = 8 m/s in the present measurement. Quite a similar transition was found in the relation between the spectral density of high frequency wind waves and u *. These results suggest the existence of the critical wind speed for air–sea boundary processes, which was proposed by Munk (J Marine Res 6:203–218, 1947) more than half a century ago. His original idea of the critical wind speed was based on the discontinuities in such phenomena as white caps, wind stress, and evaporation, which commonly appear at a wind speed near 7 m/s. On the basis of the results of our present study and those of earlier studies, we discuss the phenomena which are relevant to the critical wind speed for the air–sea boundary processes. The conclusion is that the critical wind speed exists and it is attributed to the start of wave breaking rather than the Kelvin–Helmholtz instability, but the air–sea boundary processes are not discontinuous at a particular wind speed; because of the stochastic nature of breaking waves, the changes occur over a range of wind speeds. Detailed discussions are presented on the dynamical processes associated with the critical wind speed such as wind-induced change of sea surface roughness and high frequency wave spectrum. Future studies are required, however, to clarify the dynamical processes quantitatively. In particular, there is a need to further examine the gradual change of breaking patterns of wind waves with the increase of wind speed, and the associated change of the structure of the wind over wind waves, such as separation of the airflow at the crest of wind waves, the turbulent stress, and wave-induced stress. Studies on the dynamical structure of the high frequency wave spectrum are also needed.  相似文献   

13.
In this paper, the main results of field research into the seawater dynamics on the shelf of the Crimea in the summer of 1991 are reported. It is shown that in the weather frequency band, the oscillations with periods of 11–12 days have the greatest amplitude. These represent coastal-trapped waves with a spatial scale of the order of the length of the Black Sea coastline. These waves are generated by distant winds and significantly disturb the response of the Crimea shelf waters to local wind forcing. A transient upwelling-downwelling circulation having a period of 5–7 days is induced by local winds and is not accompanied by the generation of trapped waves at the frequency of forcing. Since the average circulation on the shelf of the Crimea is of cyclonic character, downwelling events are found more frequently and have longer time periods than the upwelling events. The wind-generated trapped waves on the shelves of the Crimea and Kerch Peninsula have an average period of 27 h. The inertial oscillations were well expressed during an experiment resembling long-wave motions.Translated by Mikhail M. Trufanov.  相似文献   

14.
We compare the results obtained by using theoretical and semiempirical models developed for the evaluation of the dissipation rate of turbulent energy in a stratified ocean with independent distribution of this quantity established by the authors for the active layer of the Black Sea (50–300 m) by using a one-dimensional model taking into account the balance of heat, salt, and fluid inside the layer. It is shown that, in a layer with gradual variation of the Väisälä–Brunt frequency N as a function of depth, the predominant sink of the energy of motion into dissipation N 2 is ensured by the flow of energy through the spectrum of internal waves toward low frequencies and small vertical scales. On the contrary, in layers with abrupt drops of density as a function of depth (layers with jumps of density), an important role is played by the interface-type waves and the dependence of on N transforms into N .  相似文献   

15.
Within the framework of the linear theory of long waves, we study the process of incidence of a baroclinic tide on an unevenness of the sea bottom simulating an oceanic ridge. The liquid is assumed to be stratified and the action of the Coriolis force is taken into account. We determine the characteristics of wave disturbances in the region of the ridge induced by the incident baroclinic waves depending on the parameters of the bottom topography and tidal period. Thus, in particular, over the ridge, we reveal the existence of both the regions, where the amplitudes of internal waves are much higher than the amplitude of the incident baroclinic tide, and shaded regions, where the opposite phenomenon is observed.__________Translated from Morskoi Gidrofizicheskii Zhurnal, No. 6, pp. 3–9, November–December, 2004.  相似文献   

16.
Local equilibrium of winds and wind-waves is discussed as a basis for research of the drag coefficient of the water surface as well as for the spectral growth of wind-waves. This hypothesis assumes, in a narrow sense, that statistical properties are determined from four physical quantities, which represent winds and wind-waves: the friction velocityu *, the gravitational accelerationg, the powerE of the surface displacement, and the peak frequency p of a wind-wave spectrum. Then one has only one nondimensionalcontrol parameter, which may be either the wave age or wave nonlinearity (slope) of dominant waves. In a wide-sense, one can take into account viscosity and surface tension in terms of one more additional parameter by virtue of the virtual invariance of those material constants; that parameter describes the scale ratio between dominant waves and the short waves for which viscosity or surface tension is important. A unified expression for the roughness height according to this hypothesis turns out to include Charnock's and Toba's formulas as special cases. On the basis of a preliminary analysis of the experimental data, a new empirical formula is proposed.  相似文献   

17.
In eddy-resolving hydrodynamic models, first-mode baroclinic Rossby waves linked to El Nino/Southern Oscillation are the dominant features which change basin-wide temperatures below the seasonal thermocline in the northeast Pacific at periods less than a decade. Simulations are carried out in which Rossby waves are mapped using acoustic tomography. Based on the model which propagated these waves, a Kalman filter is used to map temperature signals for a year. The modeled data are taken from a dense network of acoustic tomography sections. At 300-m depth, where the temperature perturbations associated with Rossby waves are about ±1°C, 80% to 90% of the model variance is accounted for with tomographic estimates. The corresponding standard deviations of the estimates are less than 0.1°C at 400-km resolution. About 80% of the model variance is accounted for with tomography when the navigational errors of the sources and receivers are as poor as one kilometer. Consequently, it may be unnecessary to accurately navigate actual tomographic instruments to map climate change. Modeling results are insensitive to: 1) a reduction in data due to a significant number of instruments which fail; 2) whether the instruments are mobile or fixed; 3) the detailed trajectories of mobile receivers; 4) the shape of the a priori spectrum of ocean fluctuations; 5) the corrections to the acoustic travel-time biases; and 6) the errors in the sound-speed algorithm. In basin-scale arrays, the modeled variance of acoustic travel time depends on the horizontal wavenumber of temperature as k-5.5. Because sound has little sensitivity to small wavelengths, modeled Rossby waves can be mapped in a day from a few sources and of order ten receivers. The results only depend on the model having large scales in space and time  相似文献   

18.
The elastic–viscous–plastic (EVP) sea ice rheology has been introduced in the large-scale Louvain-la-Neuve sea-Ice Model, version 2 (LIM2), and its performance has been evaluated. Centred difference versions of the rheology have been implemented on both an Arakawa B grid and a C grid, and their performance have been intercompared in coupled simulations with the Nucleus for European Modelling of the Ocean (NEMO) model. Integrations with both implementations lead to fairly similar results which compare well with observations and with previous LIM simulations. The C grid version, however, offers a number of advantages: (a) easier ice coupling with NEMO, which is itself defined on a C grid; (b) possibility of representing ice transport across one-cell-wide straits and passages; (c) better representation of inertial-plastic compressive waves. For these reasons, we recommend the use of the C grid EVP formulation of the ice dynamics in future LIM applications.  相似文献   

19.
By synthesizing data of the turbulent structure beneath wind waves in laboratory tanks, with some re-analyses, we propose the existence of a particular turbulent boundary layer which is directly coupled with wind waves, a downward-bursting boundary layer (DBBL) in water beneath wind waves. The data set indicates that the depth of this layer is from 3 to 7, or about 5 times the significant wave height of wind waves. The data observed in laboratory tanks agree with data of acoustic observations of bubble clouds under breaking wind waves in the sea made by Thorpe (1986, 1992). It is inferred that DBBL is formed in equilibrium with the local wind waves, as a common feature from initially generated wind waves, young laboratory wind waves to mature wind waves in the sea.  相似文献   

20.
Analysis is made of wind and wave data, which were obtained during the passage of Typhoon 8013 at an Ocean Data Buoy Station south of Honshu operated by the Japan Meteorological Agency, in order to investigate the wave dependence of sea-surface roughness parameter in the situation where wind waves are dominant with less significant swells. The data fit better the wave-dependent expression of the wind stress,z 0 p/u*=, than to Charnock's formula,gz 0/u*2=, wherez 0 is the roughness length, p the angular frequency of the spectral peak of wind waves,u* the friction velocity of air,g the acceleration of gravity, and are non-dimensional constants. The results are very similar to those of our previous study using data from an oil producing platform in the Bass Strait, Australia, although the type of observation system and the synoptic situation of the winds and wind waves were totally different.  相似文献   

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