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1.
Montjoly is a headland‐bound embayed sandy beach in Cayenne, French Guiana, that shows long‐term plan shape equilibrium in spite of periodic changes in accretion and erosion that alternately affect either end of the beach. These changes are caused by mud banks that move alongshore from the Amazon. The mechanisms involved in changes in the plan shape of the beach in response to the passage of one of these mud banks were monitored between 1997 and 2000 from airborne video imagery and field work. The beach longshore drift to the northwest, driven by the incident easterly to northeasterly swell usually affecting this coast, became temporarily reversed as the mud bank, migrating from east to west, initially sheltered the southeastern end of the beach. The difference in exposure to waves engendered a negative wave height gradient alongshore towards the southeast, resulting in the setting up of a cell circulation and counter‐active longshore drift from the exposed northwestern sector to the southeast. Sand eroded from the exposed sector accumulated first in the southeastern, and then the central sectors of the beach. The effect of increasing beach sheltering by the mudbank moving west is highlighted on the videographs by an ‘arrested’ pattern of beach shoreline development. The videographs show hardly any changes in beach plan shape since January 1999, due to sheltering of the beach from wave attack by the mud bank. It is expected that the eroded sector will recover in the future as the mud bank passes, leading to re‐establishment of the northwesterly sand drift. This temporally phased bi‐directional drift within the confines of the bounding headlands results in a rare example of mud‐bank‐induced beach rotation, and probably explains the long‐term equilibrium plan shape of Montjoly beach. Copyright © 2002 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

2.
The Holocene evolution of the Canning Coast of Western Australia has largely been overlooked so far mainly due to its remoteness and low population density. We report on new data from a sequence of foredunes inside the macro‐tidal Admiral Bay, 110 km southwest of Broome. Based on sediment cores, differential global positioning system (dGPS)‐based elevation transects, and stratigraphical analyses on outcrops of the relict foredunes, we aim at reconstructing Holocene coastal changes and relative sea levels (RSLs), as well as identifying and dating imprints of extreme‐wave events. Sedimentary analyses comprise the documentation of bedding structures, foraminiferal content and macrofaunal remains, grain size distribution, and organic matter. The chronological framework is based on 26 carbon‐14 accelerator mass spectrometry (14C‐AMS) datings. Marine flooding of the pre‐Holocene surface landward of the 2.5 km‐wide foredune barriers occurred 7400–7200 cal bp , when mangroves colonized the area. After only 200–400 years, a high‐energy inter‐tidal environment established and prevailed until c. 4000 cal bp , before turning into the present supralittoral mudflat. During that time, coastal regression led to beach progradation and the formation of aligned foredunes. Drivers of progradation were a stable RSL or gradual RSL fall after the mid‐Holocene and a positive sand budget. The foredunes overlie upper beach deposits located up to >2 m above the present upper beach level and provide evidence for a higher mid‐Holocene RSL. Discontinuous layers of coarse shells and sand are intercalated in the foredunes, indicating massive coastal flooding events. One such layer was traced over three dune ridges and dated to c. 1700–1550 cal bp . However, it seems that most tropical cyclones induce net erosion rather than deposition at aligned foredunes and thus, they are only suitable for reconstructing temporal variability if erosional features or sedimentation reliably tied to these events can be identified and dated accurately. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

3.
Deposits of late‐Holocene beach sand buried conifer forests episodically emerge on beaches of the Oregon coast. Simultaneously, sand dunes buried late‐Holocene forests growing on marine terraces landward of the beaches. Dune ramps, up to 60 m in elevation, connected the beach and dune deposits. The average age of wood samples from stumps rooted on the shore platforms is 3·07 ± 1·45 ka. The average age of wood and charcoal samples embedded in forest soil on the marine terraces is 3·27 ± 1·46 ka. Between 1994 and 2006, winter storm waves exposed more than 4·5 km2 of late‐Holocene forest soil on shore platforms at 19 localities. Rooted stumps without soil were uncovered at an additional 14 localities. Once exposed, wave action eroded the soil rapidly (one to two years). The intact forest soil and roots on the shore platforms must have been nearly continuously buried, protected and preserved prior to recent exposure. The late‐Holocene buried forest provides the basis for a conceptual model of coastal evolution. A three stage reversal of erosion and sand supply must have occurred: (1) wave erosion switched to seaward advancement of forests, (2) forest growth and soil development switched to burial beneath beach and dune sand and (3) burial and preservation switched to wave erosion, truncation of dune ramps and landward retreat of sea cliffs. Copyright © 2006 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

4.
The geologic framework is an important factor worth consideration when analyzing the development of seacoasts. The different coastal responses to hydrometeorological and anthropogenic factors depend on the composition and amount of original coast-forming sediments. The impact of sediment composition on morphometric parameters is best observed in areas where sand unrepresentative of the adjacent coastal sectors appears on beaches with a relatively uniform lithological composition. These areas are referred to as lithological anomalies. Large amounts of coarse-grained sand, uncharacteristic of the adjacent coastal sectors of the Curonian spit, accumulated in the area of the strait that existed in the Post-Littorina Late Subboreal(3.7-2.5 ka BP) time south of the Juodkrante settlement. Due to accumulation of coarse sand, the beach in this sector is narrow and has a higher slope, and the ridge is lower and with a smaller volume of sand than in the adjacent coastal sectors. The specific sand composition and morphology of this coastal sector are responsible for different coastal dynamics during storms. During extreme storms, beach erosion in this coastal sector is minimal(sometimes even accretion takes place)compared with other sectors where beach erosion is rather substantial. Meanwhile, during periods of relatively calm weather, i.e. times of expected regeneration of the cross profile, this sector stands out for active erosion processes.  相似文献   

5.
Increases in the frequency and magnitude of extreme water levels and storm surges are correlated with known indices of climatic variability (CV), including the El Niño Southern Oscillation (ENSO) and the Pacific Decadal Oscillation (PDO), along some areas of the British Columbia coast. Since a shift to a positive PDO regime in 1977, the effects of ENSO events have been more frequent, persistent, and intense. Teleconnected impacts include more frequent storms, higher surges, and enhanced coastal erosion. The response of oceanographic forcing mechanisms (i.e. tide, surge, wave height, wave period) to CV events and their role in coastal erosion remain unclear, particularly in western Canada. As a first step in exploring the interactions between ocean–atmosphere forcing and beach–dune responses, this paper assembles the historic erosive total water level (TWL) regime and explores relations with observed high magnitude storms that have occurred in the Tofino‐Ucluelet region (Wickaninnish Bay) on the west coast of Vancouver Island, British Columbia, Canada. Extreme events where TWL exceeded an erosional threshold (i.e. elevation of the beach–foredune junction) of 5·5 m aCD are examined to identify dominant forcing mechanisms and to classify a regime that describes erosive events driven principally by wave conditions (61·5%), followed by surge (21·8%), and tidal (16·7%) effects. Furthermore, teleconnections between regional CV phenomena, extreme storm events and, by association, coastal erosion, are explored. Despite regional sea level rise (eustatic and steric), rapid crustal uplift rates have resulted in a falling relative sea level and, in some sedimentary systems, shoreline progradation at rates approaching +1·5 m a–1 over recent decades. Foredune erosion occurs locally with a recurrence interval of approximately 1·53 years followed by rapid rebuilding due to high onshore sand supply and often in the presence of large woody debris and rapidly colonizing vegetation in the backshore. Copyright © 2012 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

6.
Using the concept of bleaching in optical dating, a new index of sediment sample bleaching percentage (BLP‐2) was developed and applied to evaluate sand grain transport from riverine to deep‐marine environments. As bleached grains in modern sediments have no optically stimulated luminescence (OSL)/infrared stimulated luminescence (IRSL) signal, bleached and unbleached feldspar grains are distinguished by IRSL intensity. The BLP‐2 distribution of present deposits around the Kumano area, on the Pacific coast of central Japan, suggests that sand grains in surface turbidites obtained from the bottom of the Kumano Trough are of flood/storm origin rather than seismogenic origin. The distribution of BLP‐2 tentatively suggests sand grain erosion–transport–depositional processes; for example, origin and transport agencies of shelf sand, and influence of coastal erosion on the beach deposit. Although the present BLP analysis is not yet supported by a rigorous statistical test, it is useful to distinguish recent deposition and remobilization of sand grains. Furthermore, if the depositional age and the luminescence age of sand grains are accurately estimated, sand grain transport processes of old (late Quaternary) sediments may be estimated by the methodology similar to that of the present study.  相似文献   

7.
Concurrent observations of waves at the base of a southern California coastal cliff and seismic cliff motion were used to explore wave–cliff interaction and test proxies for wave forcing on coastal cliffs. Time series of waves and sand levels at the cliff base were extracted from pressure sensor observations programmatically and used to compute various wave impact metrics (e.g. significant cliff base wave height). Wave–cliff interaction was controlled by tide, incident waves, and beach sand levels, and varied from low tides with no wave–cliff impacts, to high tides with continuous wave–cliff interaction. Observed cliff base wave heights differed from standard Normal and Rayleigh distributions. Cliff base wave spectra levels were elevated at sea swell and infragravity frequencies. Coastal cliff top response to wave impacts was characterized using microseismic shaking in a frequency band (20–45 Hz) sensitive to wave breaking and cliff impacts. Response in the 20–45 Hz band was well correlated with wave–cliff impact metrics including cliff base significant wave height and hourly maximum water depth at the cliff base (r2 = 0.75). With site‐specific calibration relating wave impacts and shaking, and acceptable anthropogenic (traffic) noise levels, cliff top seismic observations are a viable proxy for cliff base wave conditions. The methods presented here are applicable to other coastal settings and can provide coastal managers with real time coastal conditions. Copyright © 2016 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

8.
Coastal areas are always under frequent threat from various natural processes and man-induced activities. Coastal erosion is recognized as the permanent loss of land along the shoreline resulting in the transformation of the coast. The current study focuses on long-term coastal erosion analysis of the entire Karnataka coast using Remote Sensing, Geographical Information System (GIS), Linear Regression Rate (LRR), and End Point Rate (EPR) techniques. Analysis of 26 (1990 to 2016) years of erosion using Landsat images by the use of the Digital Shoreline Analysis System (DSAS) tool has been done. The results show a high erosion rate at Ullal during this period (LRR -1.3m/yr) and accretion at Devbagh (LRR 3.2 m/yr). The southern Karnataka coast faces severe erosion especially at Ullal, where the settlement is high. At Thanirbhavi, Mukka, Kota, and Om Beaches erosion also is noticed. Both anthropogenic activities like ports, seawalls, breakwaters, etc. and natural processes like long shore drift, seasonal variation, etc. are factors affecting the shoreline change along the Karnataka coast.  相似文献   

9.
The Atlantic coast of Galicia (NW Spain) is a high-energy environment where shingle beaches are currently developing. These coarser sediments alternate with sandy deposits which are also considered as beaches typical of a low-energy environment. The physical association of both types of sediment with contrasted sedimentary significance raises problems of interpretation. The study of four outcrops of fossil aeolianites on this coast has allowed us to reconstruct their evolution from the end of the Upper Pleistocene to the present day. Their chronology, estimated by optically stimulated luminescence between 35 and 14 ky at the end of the last glaciation (MIS2), coincides with a local sea level 120 m below the present one. This implies a coastline shifted several kilometres from its current location and the subaerial exposure of a wide strip of the continental shelf covered by sands. The wind blew sand to form dunes towards the continent, covering the coastal areas, which then emerged with no other limitation than the active river channels. Sea-level rise during the Holocene transgression has progressively swamped these aeolian deposits, leaving only flooded dunes, relict coastal dunes and climbing dunes on cliffs up to 180 m high. The aeolian process continued as long as there was a sandy source area to erode, although accretion finished when the sea reached its current level (Late Holocene). Since then, the wind turned from accretion to erosion of the dunes and sand beaches. This erosion exposes the older shingle beaches (probably of Eemian age) buried under the aeolian sands, as well as old, submerged forest remains and megalithic monuments. The destruction of sand beaches and dunes currently observed along the Galician coast is linked, according to most researchers, to anthropogenic global warming. However, their management should consider these evolutive issues.  相似文献   

10.
Digital elevation models and topographic pro?les of a beach with intertidal bar and trough (ridge‐and‐runnel) morphology in Merlimont, northern France, were analysed in order to assess patterns of cross‐shore and longshore intertidal bar mobility. The beach exhibited a pronounced dual bar–trough system that showed cross‐shore stationarity. The bars and troughs were, however, characterized by signi?cant longshore advection of sand under the in?uence of suspension by waves and transport by strong tide‐ and wind‐driven longshore currents. Pro?le changes were due in part to the longshore migration of medium‐sized bedforms. The potential for cross‐shore bar migration appears to be mitigated by the large size of the two bars relative to incident wave energy, which is modulated by high vertical tidal excursion rates on this beach due to the large tidal range (mean spring tidal range = 8·3 m). Cross‐shore bar migration is also probably hindered by the well‐entrenched troughs which are maintained by channelled high‐energy intertidal ?ows generated by swash bores and by tidal discharge and drainage. The longshore migration of intertidal bars affecting Merlimont beach is embedded in a regional coastal sand transport pathway involving tidal and wind‐forced northward residual ?ows affecting the rectilinear northern French coast in the eastern English Channel. Copyright © 2004 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

11.
Sea stacks are common and striking coastal landforms, but few details are known about how, how quickly, and under what conditions they form. We present numerical and analytical models of sea stack formation due to preferential erosion along a pre‐existing headland to address these basic questions. On sediment‐rich rocky coasts, as sea cliffs erode and retreat, they produce beach sediment that is distributed by alongshore sediment transport and controls future sea cliff retreat rates. Depending on their width, beaches can encourage or discourage sea cliff erosion by acting either as an abrasive tool or a protective cover that dissipates wave energy seaward of the cliff. Along the flanks of rocky headlands where pocket beaches are often curved and narrow due to wave field variability, abrasion can accelerate alongshore‐directed sea cliff erosion. Eventually, abrasion‐induced preferential erosion can cut a channel through a headland, separating it from the mainland to become a sea stack. Under a symmetrical wave climate (i.e. equal influence of waves approaching the coastline from the right and from the left), numerical and analytical model results suggest that sea stack formation time and plan‐view size are proportional to preferential erosion intensity (caused by, for example, abrasion and/or local rock weakness from joints, faults, or fractures) and initial headland aspect ratio, and that sea stack formation is discouraged when the sediment input from sea cliff retreat is too high (i.e. sea cliffs retreat quickly or are sand‐rich). When initial headland aspect ratio is too small, and the headland is ‘rounded’ (much wider in the alongshore direction at its base than at its seaward apex), the headland is less conducive to sea stack formation. On top of these geomorphic and morphologic controls, a highly asymmetrical wave climate decreases sea stack size and discourages stack formation through rock–sediment interactions. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

12.
The AD 1634 North Sea storm is one of the most catastrophic storms along the Wadden Sea coast of Denmark. In this study we show how pre‐1634 storm morphology exerted a strong control on the resulting post‐storm coastal morphology. Erosional responses associated with the storm were barrier breaching, dune scarping and shoreface erosion and accretionary responses were washover deposition, shoreface healing and barrier‐island formation. Local sediment sources appeared to have a particularly strong influence on post‐storm coastal evolution and allowed a very rapid formation of a barrier shoal which resulted in several kilometres of coastal progradation. Sediment budgets suggest that formation of the barrier shoal was possible, but the sediment transport rates in the decades after the 1634 storm, must have been two to three times higher than present‐day rates. The study demonstrates that catastrophic storms are capable of moving large amounts of sediments over relatively short time‐periods and can create barrier shoals, whereas moderate storms mostly rework the shoal or barrier and create more local erosion and/or landward migration. Catastrophic storms substantially influence long‐term and large‐scale coastal evolution, and storms may positively contribute to the sediment budget and promote coastal progradation in coastal areas with longshore sediment convergence. Copyright © 2015 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

13.
For development of embryo dunes on the highly dynamic land–sea boundary, summer growth and the absence of winter erosion are essential. Other than that, however, we know little about the specific conditions that favour embryo dune development. This study explores the boundary conditions for early dune development to enable better predictions of natural dune expansion. Using a 30 year time series of aerial photographs of 33 sites along the Dutch coast, we assessed the influence of beach morphology (beach width and tidal range), meteorological conditions (storm characteristics, wind speed, growing season precipitation, and temperature), and sand nourishment on early dune development. We examined the presence and area of embryo dunes in relation to beach width and tidal range, and compared changes in embryo dune area to meteorological conditions and whether sand nourishment had been applied. We found that the presence and area of embryo dunes increased with increasing beach width. Over time, embryo dune area was negatively correlated with storm intensity and frequency. Embryo dune area was positively correlated with precipitation in the growing season and sand nourishment. Embryo dune area increased in periods of low storm frequency and in wet summers, and decreased in periods of high storm frequency or intensity. We conclude that beach morphology is highly influential in determining the potential for new dune development, and wide beaches enable development of larger embryo dune fields. Sand nourishment stimulates dune development by increasing beach width. Finally, weather conditions and non‐interrupted sequences of years without high‐intensity storms determine whether progressive dune development will take place. Copyright © 2017 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

14.
The southwest coast of England was subjected to an unusually energetic sequence of Atlantic storms during the 2013/2014 winter, with the 8‐week period from mid‐December to mid‐February representing the most energetic period since at least 1953. A regional analysis of the hydrodynamic forcing and morphological response of these storms along the SW coast of England highlighted the importance of both storm‐ and site‐specific conditions. The key factor that controls the Atlantic storm wave conditions along the south coast of southwest England is the storm track. Energetic inshore wave conditions along this coast require a relatively southward storm track which enables offshore waves to propagate up the English Channel relatively unimpeded. The timing of the storm in relation to the tidal stage is also important, and coastal impacts along the macro‐tidal southwest coast of England are maximised when the peak storm waves coincide with spring high tide. The role of storm surge is limited and rarely exceeds 1 m. The geomorphic storm response along the southwest coast of England displayed considerable spatial variability; this is mainly attributed to the embayed nature of the coastline and the associated variability in coastal orientation. On west‐facing beaches typical of the north coast, the westerly Atlantic storm waves approached the coastline shore‐parallel, and the prevailing storm response was offshore sediment transport. Many of these north coast beaches experienced extensive beach and dune erosion, and some of the beaches were completely stripped of sediment, exposing a rocky shore platform. On the south coast, the westerly Atlantic storm waves refract and diffract to become southerly inshore storm waves and for the southeast‐facing beaches this results in large incident wave angles and strong eastward littoral drift. Many south coast beaches exhibited rotation, with the western part of the beaches eroding and the eastern part accreting. © 2015 The Authors. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.  相似文献   

15.
我国地震海浪初步分析   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  
总结了我国地震海浪的25次记录,在做初步分析后认为我国的地震海浪多由近海海洋地震引起,其多发地区为渤海沿岸与东南沿海一带.随着对沿海地区开发的深入,这类记载逐渐增多,受灾程度加大.另外分析了在社会历史变迁中,国家对海洋的开发政策、沿海开发下城市近海地理位置、沿海港口及海洋贸易的规模与地震海浪受灾程度之间的关系.  相似文献   

16.
Climate change and resultant coastal erosion and flooding have been the focus of many recent analyses. Often these studies overlook the effects of manmade modifications to the coastline which have reduced its resilience to storm events. In this investigation, we integrate previous reports, historical photo analysis, field work, and the application of numerical models to better understand the effects of Wilma, the most destructive hurricane to affect Cancun, Mexico. Huge waves (of significant height, >12 m), long mean wave periods (>12 s), devastating winds (>250 km/h), and powerful currents (>2 m/s) removed >7 million cubic meters of sand from the Cancun beach system, leaving 68% of the sub‐aerial beach as bedrock, and the rest considerably eroded. Numerical simulations show that the modifications to the barrier island imposed by tourist infrastructure have considerably increased the rigidity of the system, increasing the potential erosion of the beach under extreme conditions. If there were no structural barriers, a series of breaches could occur along the beach, allowing exchange of water and alleviating storm surge on other sections of the beach. If the effects caused by anthropogenic changes to Cancun are ignored, the analysis is inaccurate and misleading.  相似文献   

17.
Analyses of shoreline and bathymetry change near Calais, northern coast of France, showed that shoreline evolution during the 20th century was strongly related with shoreface and nearshore bathymetry variations. Coastal erosion generally corresponds to areas of nearshore seabed lowering while shoreline progradation is essentially associated with areas of seafloor aggradation, notably east of Calais where an extensive sand flat experienced seaward shoreline displacement up to more than 300 m between 1949 and 2000. Mapping of bathymetry changes since 1911 revealed that significant variation in nearshore morphology was caused by the onshore and alongshore migration of a prominent tidal sand bank that eventually welded to the shore. Comparison of bathymetry data showed that the volume of the bank increased by about 10×107 m3 during the 20th century, indicating that the bank was acting as a sediment sink for some of the sand transiting alongshore in the coastal zone. Several lines of evidence show that the bank also represented a major sediment source for the prograding tidal flat, supplying significant amounts of sand to the accreting upper beach. Simulation of wave propagation using the SWAN wave model (Booij et al., 1999) suggests that the onshore movement of the sand bank resulted in a decrease of wave energy in the nearshore zone, leading to more dissipative conditions. Such conditions would have increased nearshore sediment supply, favoring aeolian dune development on the upper beach and shoreline progradation. Our results suggest that the onshore migration of nearshore sand banks may represent one of the most important, and possibly the primary mechanism responsible for supplying marine sand to beaches and coastal dunes in this macrotidal coastal environment.  相似文献   

18.
Rising sea levels, owing to climate change, are a threat to fresh water coastal aquifers. This is because saline intrusions are caused by increases and intensification of medium‐large scale influences including sea level rise, wave climate, tidal cycles, and shifts in beach morphology. Methods are therefore required to understand the dynamics of these interactions. While traditional borehole and galvanic contact resistivity (GCR) techniques have been successful they are time‐consuming. Alternatively, frequency‐domain electromagnetic (FEM) induction is potentially useful as physical contact with the ground is not required. A DUALEM‐421 and EM4Soil inversion software package are used to develop a quasi two‐ (2D) and quasi three‐dimensional (3D) electromagnetic conductivity images (EMCI) across Long Reef Beach located north of Sydney Harbour, New South Wales, Australia. The quasi 2D models discern: the dry sand (<10 mS/m) associated with the incipient dune; sand with fresh water (10 to 20 mS/m); mixing of fresh and saline water (20 to 500 mS/m), and; saline sand of varying moisture (more than 500 mS/m). The quasi 3D EMCIs generated for low and high tides suggest that daily tidal cycles do not have a significant effect on local groundwater salinity. Instead, the saline intrusion is most likely influenced by medium‐large scale drivers including local wave climate and morphology along this wave‐dominated beach. Further research is required to elucidate the influence of spring‐neap tidal cycles, contrasting beach morphological states and sea level rise.  相似文献   

19.
Many estuaries contain sandy beaches that provide habitats and offer protective buffers for wetlands and infrastructure, alongside cultural and recreational resources. Research underpinning coastal management tends to focus on tide- and swell-dominated sandy beaches, but little attention is given to beaches in estuaries and bays (BEBs) that exist along a continuum of wind/swell wave, tide and riverine influence. BEBs are subject to less wave energy than open coast locations because of the generally narrow window of directions for which ocean waves can propagate through the entrance. However, when storm wave direction coincides with the orientation of the estuary or bay entrance, waves can penetrate several kilometres inside. Here we focus on eight BEBs in two major bays/estuaries in Sydney, Australia and present observations from before and after a major extratropical storm with waves from an atypical direction in June 2016. We quantify magnitudes of beach erosion and recovery rates for 3 years post-storm. We show that when high-energy storm waves penetrate bays and estuaries, BEBs can undergo up to 100% of subaerial beach erosion. Three years after the storm, only 5 of the 29 (17%) eroded subaerial beach profiles had recovered to their pre-storm volume. This is likely due to the lack of low-frequency, beach-building waves at BEBs under modal weather conditions in between storms, in contrast to open coast beaches. We also show that the recovery of BEBs may be limited by the absence of adjacent sediment reservoirs due to the dominance of tidal processes mid-channel. Our study highlights the unique behaviour of BEBs relative to beaches on the open coast, and that shifting wave direction needs to be considered in long-term beach resilience under climate change. © 2020 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

20.
Beach ridge stratigraphy can provide an important record of both sustained coastal progradation and responses to events such as extreme storms, as well as evidence of earthquake induced sediment pulses. This study is a stratigraphic investigation of the late Holocene mixed sand gravel (MSG) beach ridge plain on the Canterbury coast, New Zealand. The subsurface was imaged along a 370 m shore-normal transect using 100 and 200 MHz ground penetrating radar (GPR) antennae, and cored to sample sediment textures. Results show that, seaward of a back-barrier lagoon, the Pegasus Bay beach ridge plain prograded almost uniformly, under conditions of relatively stable sea level. Nearshore sediment supply appears to have created a sustained sediment surplus, perhaps as a result of post-seismic sediment pulses, resulting in a flat, morphologically featureless beach ridge plain. Evidence of a high magnitude storm provides an exception, with an estimated event return period in excess of 100 years. Evidence from the GPR sequence combined with modern process observations from MSG beaches indicates that a palaeo-storm initially created a washover fan into the back-barrier lagoon, with a large amount of sediment simultaneously moved off the beach face into the nearshore. This erosion event resulted in a topographic depression still evident today. In the subsequent recovery period, sediment was reworked by swash onto the beach as a sequence of berm deposit laminations, creating an elevated beach ridge that also has a modern-day topographic signature. As sediment supply returned to normal, and under conditions of falling sea level, a beach ridge progradation sequence accumulated seaward of the storm feature out to the modern-day beach as a large flat, uniform progradation plain. This study highlights the importance of extreme storm events and earthquake pulses on MSG coastlines in triggering high volume beach ridge formation during the subsequent recovery period. © 2019 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

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