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1.
《国际泥沙研究》2021,36(6):723-735
This numerical modeling study (i) assesses the influence of the sediment erosion process on the sediment dynamics and subsequent morphological changes of a mixed-sediment environment, the macrotidal Seine estuary, when non-cohesive particles are dominant within bed mixtures (non-cohesive regime), and (ii) investigates respective contributions of bedload and suspended load in these dynamics. A three dimensional (3D) process-based morphodynamic model was set up and run under realistic forcings (including tide, waves, wind, and river discharge) during a 1-year period. Applying erosion homogeneously to bed sediment in the non-cohesive regime, i.e., average erosion parameters in the erosion law (especially the erodibility parameter, E0), leads to higher resuspension of fine sediment due to the presence of coarser fractions within mixtures, compared to the case of an independent treatment of erosion for each sediment class. This results in more pronounced horizontal sediment flux (two-fold increase for sand, +30% for mud) and erosion/deposition patterns (up to a two-fold increase in erosion over shoals, generally associated with some coarsening of bed sediment). Compared to observed bathymetric changes, more relevant erosion/deposition patterns are derived from the model when independent resuspension fluxes are considered in the non-cohesive regime. These results suggest that this kind of approach may be more relevant when local grain-size distributions become heterogeneous and multimodal for non-cohesive particles. Bedload transport appears to be a non-dominant but significant contributor to the sediment dynamics of the Seine Estuary mouth. The residual bedload flux represents, on average, between 17 and 38% of the suspended sand flux, its contribution generally increasing when bed sediment becomes coarser (can become dominant at specific locations). The average orientation of residual fluxes and erosion/deposition patterns caused by bedload generally follow those resulting from suspended sediment dynamics. Sediment mass budgets cumulated over the simulated year reveal a relative contribution of bedload to total mass budgets around 25% over large erosion areas of shoals, which can even become higher in sedimentation zones. However, bedload-induced dynamics can locally differ from the dynamics related to suspended load, resulting in specific residual transport, erosion/deposition patterns, and changes in seabed nature.  相似文献   

2.
Unsuccessful attempts to use process‐scale models to predict long‐term aeolian sediment transport patterns have long been a feature of aeolian research. It has been proposed that one approach to overcome these problems is to identify micro‐scale variables that are important at longer timescales. This paper assesses the contribution of two system variables (secondary airflow patterns and fetch distance) to medium‐term (months to years) dune development. The micro‐scale importance of these variables had been established during previous work at the site (Magilligan Strand, Northern Ireland). Three methods were employed. First, sand drift potentials were calculated using 2 years of regional wind data and a sediment transport model. Second, wind data and large trench traps (2 m length × 1 m width × 1·5 m depth) were used to assess the actual sediment transport patterns over a 2‐month period. Third, a remote‐sensing technique for the identification of fetch distance, a saltation impact sensor (Safire) and wind data were utilized to gauge, qualitatively, sediment transport patterns over a 1‐month period. Secondary airflow effects were found to play a major role in the sediment flux patterns at these timescales, with measured and predicted rates matching closely during the trench trap study. The results suggest that fetch distance is an unimportant variable at this site. Copyright © 2007 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

3.
The sediment saturation recovery process (i.e. the adaptation of suspended sediment concentration [SSC] to local forcing) is the main feature of the non‐equilibrium suspended sediment transport (SST) frequently occurring in fluvial, estuarine and coastal waters. In order to quantitatively describe this phenomenon, a series solution is analytically derived, including the evolution of both vertical SSC profile and near‐bed sediment flux (NBSF), and is verified by net erosion and net deposition experiments, respectively. The results suggest that the sediment saturation recovery process involves vertically varying fluxes that are not represented correctly by depth‐averaging. Consequently, a vertical two‐dimensional (2D) combined scheme is established and applied respectively in to a dredged trench and to a sand wave feature to demonstrate this argument. By analyzing the variations of the calculated depth‐averaged SSC and NBSF we reveal that the equilibrium state presented by the sediment carrying capacity (SCC) form of the NBSF, which is usually applied in depth‐integrated SST models, lags behind the actual dynamic bed equilibrium state. Moreover, the key factor α, the so‐called saturation recovery coefficient within this form, is not only a function of local Rouse number but also is influenced by the local SSC profile. Finally, a three‐dimensional (3D) non‐orthogonal curvilinear body‐fitted SST model is developed and validated in the Yangtze estuary, China, combined with the in situ hourly hydrographic data from August 14–15, 2007 during spring tide in the wet season. Model results confirm that the vertically varying sediment saturation recovery process, the discrepancies between the actual and SCC form of NBSF and non‐constant value of α are significant in actual real geomorphic cases. The quantitative morphological change resulting from variations in environmental conditions may not be correctly represented by uncorrected depth‐integrated SST models if they do not treat the effects of vertical motion on the sediment saturation recovery process. Copyright © 2016 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

4.
Reef islands are morphologically dynamic features located on atolls and platform reefs that are very sensitive to wave‐induced processes on different timescales. The planform morphological evolution of reef islands is widely described; however, the mechanisms of the volumetric variations in response to wave energy are still poorly documented. To assess their multitemporal vertical and horizontal mobility, we performed a series of synchronous measurements of the volumetric changes and incident wave energies at two reef islands and a shingle bank at the Rocas Atoll in the South Atlantic Ocean. The results show the differences in the magnitudes and locations of the sediment mobility between the reef islands. Whereas one island remained stable on all timescales, with only small volumetric changes concentrated at its extremities, the other island (Farol Island) showed high mobility, especially during the energetic northern swell season. The gross volumetric change reached 10.03 × 103 m3 (5% of the total island volume) on a daily timescale; however, on a seasonal scale, the gross erosion was compensated by the gross accretion, indicating a cyclical seasonal pattern. Moreover, the observed volumetric changes induced by the waves on both daily and seasonal timescales did not result in large shoreline displacements. However, long‐term oceanward erosion and substantial lagoonward accretion were observed at Farol Island on a decadal scale, resulting in a pronounced change in its planform morphology. This appears to be promoted by at least three sediment transport pathways induced by waves at the atoll, including sediment adjustment between the reef islands. Our results show that reef islands on the same atoll can have very distinct morphological behaviors on daily, seasonal and decadal scales in response to the same boundary conditions. Copyright © 2017 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

5.
This paper presents an erosion model, ARMOUR, which simulates time‐varying runoff, erosion, deposition and surface armour evolution down a hillslope either as a result of a single erosion event or as the cumulative impact of many events over periods up to decades. ARMOUR simulates sediment transport for both cohesive and non‐cohesive soil and dynamically differentiates between ‘transport‐limited’ and ‘source‐limited’ processes. A variety of feasible processes for entrainment of different size classes can be modelled and evaluated against data. The generalized likelihood of uncertainty estimation (GLUE) technique was used to calibrate and validate ARMOUR using data collected during rainfall simulator experiments at two contrasting sites: (1) non‐cohesive stony sediments at Ranger Uranium Mine, Northern Territory, Australia; and (2) cohesive silty sediments at Northparkes Gold Mine, NSW, Australia. The spatial and temporal variations of model predictions within the individual runoff events showed that some entrainment processes could not model the spikes in concentration and subsequent depletion, while the hiding model of Andrews and Parker best simulated the concentration trends for both calibrated and independent runoff events. ARMOUR also successfully captured the coarsening of the surface material, though small, over the duration of the rainfall simulator trials. This was driven by the depletion of the finest size class of the soil. For a constant discharge, ARMOUR simulated higher sediment flux at the start of the storm with the sediment flux and concentration diminishing with time. For natural rainfall a power law relationship between sediment flux and discharge was observed. The calibration exercise showed that sediment concentration and discharge alone are insufficient to calibrate all aspects of the physics, in particular the armour depth. This appears to be because the armouring during the short duration events is driven by depletion of the finest classes of the sediments (diameters less then 62·5 mm), which are not normally measured. Copyright © 2006 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

6.
Contemporary hydrodynamics and morphological change are examined in a shallow microtidal estuary, located on a wave-dominated coast (Port Stephens, NSW, Australia). Process-based numerical modelling is undertaken by combining modules for hydrodynamics, waves, sediment transport and bathymetry updates. Model results suggest that the complex estuarine bathymetry and geometry give rise to spatial variations in the tidal currents and a marked asymmetry between ebb and flood flows. Sediment transport paths correspond with tidal asymmetry patterns. The SE storms significantly enhance the quantities of sediment transport, while locally generated waves by the westerly strong winds also are capable of causing sediment entrainment and contribute to the delta morphological change. The wave/wind-induced currents are not uniform with flow over shoals driven in the same direction as waves/winds while a reverse flow occurring in the adjacent channel. The conceptual sediment transport model developed in this study shows flood-directed transport occurs on the flood ramp while ebb-directed net transport occurs in the tidal channels and at the estuary entrance. Accretion of the intertidal sand shoals and deepening of tidal channels, as revealed by the model, suggest that sediment-infilling becomes advanced, which may lead to an ebb-dominated estuary. It is likely that a switch from flood- to ebb-dominance occurs during the estuary evolution, and the present-day estuary acts as a sediment source rather than sediment sink to the coastal system. This is conflictive to the expectation drawn from the estuarine morphology; however, it is consistent with previous research suggesting that, in an infilling estuary, an increase in build-up of intertidal flats/shoals can eventually shift an estuary towards ebb dominance. Thus, field data are needed to validate the result presented here, and further study is required to investigate a variety of estuaries in the Australian area.  相似文献   

7.
Numerical modelling of morphodynamics—Vilaine Estuary   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1  
The main objective of this paper is to develop a method to simulate long-term morphodynamics of estuaries dominated by fine sediments, which are subject to both tidal flow and meteorologically induced variations in freshwater run-off and wave conditions. The method is tested on the Vilaine Estuary located in South Brittany, France. The estuary is subject to a meso–macrotidal regime. The semi-diurnal tidal range varies from around 2.5 to 5 m at neap and spring, respectively. The freshwater input is controlled by a dam located approximately 8 km from the mouth of the estuary. Sediments are characterised as mostly fines, but more sandy areas are also found. The morphology of the estuary is highly influenced by the dam. It is very dynamic and changes in a complicated manner with the run-off from the dam, the tide and the wave forcing at the mouth of the estuary. Extensive hydrodynamic and sediment field data have been collected in the past and provide a solid scientific basis for studying the estuary. Based on a conceptual understanding of the morphodynamics, a numerical morphological model with coupled hydrodynamic, surface wave and sediment transport models is formulated. The numerical models are calibrated to reproduce sediment concentrations, tidal flat altimetry and overall sediment fluxes. Scaling factors are applied to a reference year to form quasi-realistic hydrodynamic forcing and river run-off, which allow for the simulations to be extended to other years. The simulation results are compared with observed bathymetric changes in the estuary during the period 1998–2005. The models and scaling factors are applied to predict the morphological development over a time scale of up to 10 years. The influence of the initial conditions and the sequence of external hydrodynamic forcing, with respect to the morphodynamic response of the estuary, are discussed.  相似文献   

8.
Quantifying the relative proportions of soil losses due to interrill and rill erosion processes during erosion events is an important factor in predicting total soil losses and sediment transport and deposition. Beryllium‐7 (7Be) can provide a convenient way to trace sediment movement over short timescales providing information that can potentially be applied to longer‐term, larger‐scale erosion processes. We used simulated rainstorms to generate soil erosion from two experimental plots (5 m × 4 m; 25° slope) containing a bare, hand‐cultivated loessal soil, and measured 7Be activities to identify the erosion processes contributing to eroded material movement and/or deposition in a flat area at the foot of the slope. Based on the mass balance of 7Be detected in the eroded soil source and in the sediments, the proportions of material from interrill and rill erosion processes were estimated in the total soil losses, the deposited sediments in the flat area, and in the suspended sediments discharged from the plots. The proportion of interrill eroded material in the discharged sediment decreased over time as that of rill eroded material increased. The amount of deposited material was greatly affected by overland flow rates. The estimated amounts of rill eroded material calculated using 7Be activities were in good agreement with those based on physical measurements of total plot rill volumes. Although time lags of 45 and 11 minutes existed between detection of sediment being removed by rill erosion, based on 7Be activities, and observed rill initiation times, our results suggest that the use of 7Be tracer has the potential to accurately quantify the processes of erosion from bare, loessal cultivated slopes and of deposition in flatter, downslope areas that occur in single rainfall events. Such measurements could be applied to estimate longer‐term erosion occurring over larger areas possessing similar landforms. Copyright © 2010 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

9.
Mountain ranges are frequently subjected to mass wasting events triggered by storms or earthquakes and supply large volumes of sediment into river networks. Besides altering river dynamics, large sediment deliveries to alluvial fans are known to cause hydro‐sedimentary hazards such as flooding and river avulsion. Here we explore how the sediment supply history affects hydro‐sedimentary river and fan hazards, and how well can it be predicted given the uncertainties on boundary conditions. We use the 2D morphodynamic model Eros with a new 2D hydrodynamic model driven by a sequence of flood, a sediment entrainment/transport/deposition model and a bank erosion law. We first evaluate the model against a natural case: the 1999 Mount Adams rock avalanche and subsequent avulsion on the Poerua river fan (West Coast, New Zealand). By adjusting for the unknown sediment supply history, Eros predicts the evolution of the alluvial riverbed during the first post‐landslide stages within 30 cm. The model is subsequently used to infer how the sediment supply volume and rate control the fan aggradation patterns and associated hazards. Our results show that the total injected volume controls the overall levels of aggradation, but supply rates have a major control on the location of preferential deposition, avulsion and increased flooding risk. Fan re‐incision following exhaustion of the landslide‐derived sediment supply leads to sediment transfer and deposition downstream and poses similar, but delayed, hydro‐sedimentary hazards. Our results demonstrate that 2D morphodynamics models are able to capture the full range of hazards occurring in alluvial fans including river avulsion aggradation and floods. However, only ensemble simulations accounting for uncertainties in boundary conditions (e.g., discharge history, initial topography, grain size) as well as model realization (e.g., non‐linearities in hydro‐sedimentary processes) can be used to produce probabilistic hazards maps relevant for decision making. Copyright © 2017 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

10.
The effect of the consolidation process on the morphodynamics and fine sediment dynamics of the Río de la Plata estuary is explored through a circulation-wave-sediment transport model. The consolidation model is calibrated based on settling column experimental data. Different simulations are done in order to initialize the mud layer distribution and to investigate the impact of different erosion parameter assumptions on the modeled sediment dynamics. Finally a two-year simulation is done with and without the consolidation process and realistic hydrodynamic forcings. Considering the consolidation process, the model correctly reproduces measured vertical density profiles in the Montevideo Bay access channel. The simulated suspended sediment dynamics behavior in Montevideo Bay with the consolidation process provides a more realistic deposition pattern in regard to the dredging activities.  相似文献   

11.
We describe additions made to a multi‐size sediment routing model enabling it to simulate width adjustment simultaneously alongside bed aggradation/incision and fining/coarsening. The model is intended for use in single thread gravel‐bed rivers over annual to decadal timescales and for reach lengths of 1–10 km. It uses a split‐channel approach with separate calculations of flow and sediment transport in the left and right sides of the channel. Bank erosion is treated as a function of excess shear stress with bank accretion occurring when shear stress falls below a second, low, threshold. A curvature function redistributes shear stress to either side of the channel. We illustrate the model through applications to a 5·6‐km reach of the upper River Wharfe in northern England. The sediment routing component with default parameter values gives excellent agreement with field data on downstream fining and down‐reach reduction in bedload flux, and the width‐adjustment components with approximate calibration to match maximum observed rates of bank shifting give plausible patterns of local change. The approach may be useful for exploring interactions between sediment delivery, river management and channel change in upland settings. Copyright © 2011 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

12.
Assessing hydrologically driven erosion at regional scales from a process‐based perspective presents a significant challenge. Most regional‐scale erosion assessments are based upon a simple steady‐state hydrology foundation. For this study, the sediment transport version of the physics‐based Integrated Hydrology Model (InHM), excited by synthetically generated rainfall, was employed to assess long‐term hydrologically driven erosion for a regional‐scale island boundary‐value problem. The spatiotemporal dynamics of runoff generation, erosion, and deposition are illustrated through saturation, water depth, velocity, and sediment concentration results. The simulations demonstrate that process‐based assessment for concept development is both feasible and tractable at regional spatial and human time scales. Copyright © 2011 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

13.
14.
Pikes Peak Highway is a partially paved road between Cascade, Colorado and the summit of Pikes Peak. Significant gully erosion is occurring on the hillslopes due to the concentration of surface runoff, the rearrangement of drainage pathways along the road surface and adjacent drainage ditches, and the high erodibility of weathered Pikes Peak granite that underlies the area. As a result, large quantities of sediment are transported to surrounding valley networks causing significant damage to water quality and aquatic, wetland, and riparian ecosystems. This study establishes the slope/drainage area threshold for gullying along Pikes Peak Highway and a cesium‐137 based sediment budget highlighting rates of gully erosion and subsequent valley deposition for a small headwater basin. The threshold for gullying along the road is Scr = 0 · 21A–0·45 and the road surface reduces the critical slope requirement for gullying compared to natural drainages in the area. Total gully volume for the 20 gullies along the road is estimated at 5974 m3, with an erosion rate of 64 m3 yr–1 to 101 m3 yr–1. Net valley deposition is estimated at 162 m3 yr–1 with 120 m3 yr–1 unaccounted for by gullying. The hillslope–channel interface is decoupled with minimal downstream sediment transport which results in significant local gully‐derived sedimentation. Copyright © 2013 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

15.
Point of the Mountain spit and Fingerpoint spit are two of the largest geomorphic features of Pleistocene Lake Bonneville of the western Great Basin, USA. The spits and their associated shorelines show distinctly different geomorphic expression and genesis; this is a function of their positions within the lake and the dynamics of the waves and storms that formed them. Mapping of geomorphic features, geometry of erosional features, and detailed lithologic analysis of shoreline deposits are used to determine dominant modes of sediment erosion and deposition. The Point of the Mountain spit, located in the eastern portion of the basin, was formed as a result of highly fractured bedrock in a salient of the Wasatch Front being exposed to wave trains that approached from the north‐northwest causing north‐to‐south longshore sediment transport. Shoreline development and sediment transport on the southern portion of the spit were minimal. The Fingerpoint spit, located on an island in the northwest portion of the basin, was formed by bidirectional longshore sediment transport as the result of waves that approached from both the north‐northeast and the south‐southwest. Spit development is a function of surface wave energy and direction which in turn is the integrated result of wind direction, wind intensity, and fetch. Wave transport direction determined from ?eld measurements at Point of the Mountain spit corresponds very well to the direction of maximum fetch (c. 200 km). For the Fingerpoint spit, the hypothesized wave transport direction from the south corresponds with the direction of maximum fetch (c. 350 km). However, wave energy transport from the north had limited fetch (c. 100 km), implying that wind intensity from the north was relatively large. The geometry of the two large Bonneville spits suggests the predominant wind direction from storms during the Pleistocene was from the north and points the way for future studies that can aid in further understanding the nature of Pleistocene wind ?elds in the Great Basin. Copyright © 2004 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

16.
Under natural conditions, barrier islands might grow vertically and migrate onshore under the influence of long‐term sea level rise. Sediment is transported onshore during storm‐induced overwash and inundation. However, on many Dutch Wadden Islands, dune openings are closed off by artificial sand‐drift dikes that prevent the influx of sediment during storms. It has been argued that creating openings in the dune row to allow regular flooding on barrier islands can have a positive effect on the sediment budget, but the dominant hydrodynamic processes and their influence on sediment transport during overwash and inundation are unknown. Here, we present an XBeach model study to investigate how sediment transport during overwash and inundation across the beach of a typical mesotidal Wadden Sea barrier island is influenced by wave, tide and storm surge conditions. Firstly, we validated the model XBeach with field data on waves and currents during island inundation. In general, the XBeach model performed well. Secondly, we studied the long‐term sediment transport across the barrier island. We distinguished six representative inundation classes, ranging from frequently occurring, low‐energy events to infrequent, high‐energy events, and simulated the hydrodynamics and sediment transport during these events. An analysis of the model simulations shows that larger storm events cause larger cross‐shore sediment transport, but the net sediment exchange during a storm levels off or even becomes smaller for the largest inundation classes because it is counteracted by larger mean water levels in the Wadden Sea that oppose or even reverse sediment transport during inundation. When taking into account the frequency of occurrence of storms we conclude that the cumulative effect of relatively mild storms on long‐term cross‐shore sediment transport is much larger than that of the large storm events. © 2017 The Authors. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.  相似文献   

17.
Physics‐based models have been increasingly developed in recent years and applied to simulate the braiding process and evolution of channel units in braided rivers. However, limited attention is given to lowland braided rivers where the transport of suspended sediment plays a dominant role. In the present study, a numerical model based on the basic physics laws of hydrodynamics and sediment transport is used to simulate the evolution process of a braided river dominated by suspended load transport. The model employs a fractional method to simulate the transport of graded sediments and uses a multiple‐bed‐layer approach to represent the sediment sorting process. An idealized braided river has been produced, with the hydrodynamic, sediment transport and morphological processes being analysed. In particular, the formation process of local pool–bar units in the predicted river has been investigated. A sensitivity analysis has also been undertaken to investigate the effects of grid resolution and an upstream perturbation on the model prediction. A variety of methods are applied to analyse the geometrical and topographical properties of the modelled river. Self‐organizing characteristics related to river geometry and topography are analysed by state‐space plots, which indicate a close relationship with the periodical erosion and deposition cycles of braiding. Cross‐sectional topography and slope frequency display similar geometries to natural rivers. Scaling characteristics are found by correlation analysis of bar parameters. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

18.
Artificially straight river channels tend to be unstable, and ultimately develop into river meanders through bank erosion and point‐bar deposition. In this paper account is taken of the effects of riparian and floodplain vegetation on bank strength, floodplain flow resistance, shear stress partitioning, and bedload transport. This is incorporated into an existing 2D hydrodynamic‐morphological model. By applying the new model to an initially straight and single‐threaded channel, the way that its planform and cross‐sectional geometry evolve for different hydraulic and floodplain vegetation conditions is demonstrated. The results show the formation and upstream migration of gravel bars, confluence scouring and the development of meandering and braiding channel patterns. In cases where the channel becomes unstable, the instability grows out of bar formation. The resulting braiding patterns are similar to analytical results. The formation of a transition configuration requires a strong influence from vegetation. Copyright © 2010 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

19.
Intermittently open/closed estuaries (IOCE) are a dynamic form of estuary characterised by periodic entrance closure to the ocean. Entrance closure is a function of the relative balance between on and offshore sediment transport with closures occurring during periods of low fluvial discharge whereby the estuary ebb‐tidal prism is reduced. Although the broad scale processes of entrance closure are becoming better understood, there remains limited knowledge on channel morphodynamics during an individual closure event. In this study, the entrance dynamics of three IOCE on the coast of Victoria, Australia, were monitored over a daily timescale following both artificial and natural openings. The influence of changing marine and fluvial conditions on the relative sedimentation rate within the entrance channel was examined. IOCE in Victoria showed two distinct modes of entrance closure: (a) lateral accretion, whereby the estuary gradually closes by longshore drift‐driven spit growth during low river flows; and (b) vertical accretion, where the channel rapidly aggrades under high (> 2 m), near‐normal waves. During storms, when fluvial discharge and wave heights simultaneously increase, large swells will not always close the mouth due to an increase in the ebb‐tidal prism. The estuary water depth and the maximum channel dimensions following opening were not proportional to the opening duration, with this being a function of the wave and fluvial conditions occurring following lagoon drainage. Based on the findings of this work, implementing a successful artificial entrance opening is dependent on reduced onshore sedimentation rates which occur when wave energy is low (< 2 m Hs) relative to river flow. Copyright © 2017 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

20.
Estuarine shorelines are often classified as low-energy coasts and are, therefore, expected to undergo little variation. Port Stephens (SE Australia) is a ria-like drowned river valley microtidal estuary located on a wave-dominated coast. The outer part of the estuary is tide-dominated and has a large shallow flood-tide delta, which is also affected by waves. The northern (predominantly low-energy) shoreline of outer Port Stephens is a continuous stretch of sand comprising areas of high mobility and areas of relative stability terminating in a western extending sand spit. This paper investigates the effects of periodic high-energy conditions during which waves penetrate into the estuary by analysing two types of storms, low to moderate (more frequent type) storms and severe to extreme (low frequency) storms. It is established that low to moderate storms cause generalised erosion over the northern shoreline. On the contrary, severe to extreme storms, while causing erosion on parts of the beach, can transport new sediment across the flood-tide delta and deposit it to build a mobile shore attached sandwave. Long-term (decadal) trends identified in the study area are in agreement with short- and medium-term results. Moving into the estuary are four complementary zones of sediment transport which include: (1) sandwave formation and westward migration; (2) a relatively stable area between the sandwave and an erosion zone; (3) an erosion zone undergoing shoreline retreat and finally (4) a depositional terminus causing westward extension of the sand spit.  相似文献   

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