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1.
A 2-year set of profile data from Ovari to Kanyakumari Beach,SE India has been analysed by using empirical orthogonal function(EOF) techniques to identify characteristic patterns of temporal and spatial variation in the sediment volume of the beaches.The results show that variation in the sediment volume of the beach is determined by interaction between the biennial and seasonal exchanges.EOF analysis the pattern of alongshore sediment exchange along the study area.The method facilitated separation of onshore-offshore and alongshore modes of sediment transfer and identification of the patterns of alongshore sediment exchange.The eigenfunction modes confirm the dominance of biennial,annual,and biannual sediment transfers occurring on study area.The sediment movement along the shoreline of study area is mainly governed by the forces associated with the incoming waves and the availability of sediments within the area.The present investigation has been made as an attempt to appreciate the sediment movement in relation to wave activity along the coast.The longshore sediment transport is intensive in the northerly direction as compared to southerly direction.The normal condition is for and to be moved annually or more frequently in the shallows and on the beach.Waves and wave-driven currents cause longshore drift of sand along the beach and offshore.  相似文献   

2.
In this study, the artificial opening of a new tidal inlet in an existing multiple inlet system is shown to significantly modify the adjacent nearshore and backbarrier morphology, as well as both updrift and downdrift shorelines. The study focuses on the dominant Faro‐Olhão and Armona inlets in the Ria Formosa barrier island system of southern Portugal. The equilibrium state and future evolution of the system are inferred using a range of morphological and hydrodynamic indicators, including the evolution of the inlet cross‐section, changes in tidal prism, and changes in the dimensions (length and area) of barrier islands. The results reveal how the morphology of an interconnected two‐inlet bay system and the adjacent coastlines has evolved following the artificial opening and stabilization of Faro‐Olhão inlet since 1929. A clear relationship between barrier island size, inlet cross‐section/width, and tidal prism is demonstrated. Decadal time‐scale changes in the tidal prism of the two interconnected inlets are shown to be the main mechanism responsible for morphological change, and have resulted in the remobilization of ebb‐tidal delta sediments deposited during previous hydraulic configurations. These changes, in turn, have contributed to a narrowing of Armona inlet and an increase in the size of Culatra Island. The work highlights the importance of ebb‐tidal deltas both as sand reservoirs and as conduits through which sand exchange between estuaries or lagoons and the open coast is regulated. It also shows the pivotal role of ebb‐tidal deltas in trapping longshore‐transported sediment and releasing it again during periods of increased wave activity. The findings have implications regarding the accurate assessment of the stability of multiple inlet systems. Copyright © 2011 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

3.
This paper addresses a series of geomorphic questions relating to large‐scale (> 1 km), long‐term (100 – 1,000 years) coastal planshape evolution. Previous research on soft‐cliff coasts has recognised the role of protective fronting beach volumes on reducing rates of cliff toe retreat. However, it is the maintenance of this critical threshold that ultimately determines two contrasting modes of shoreline behaviour: Mode A, in which there is little beach sediment and shoreline evolution is controlled by material strength; and, Mode B, when ample beach sediment means that shoreline evolution is controlled by longshore sediment transport. Here we use a numerical model (SCAPE) to investigate temporal and spatial changes in beach volume on a broader range of feedbacks than considered in previous models. The transition between Mode A and Mode B coasts is defined by relative sediment inputs to outputs and used to explore how these contrasting modes control the evolution of an initial linear frontage exhibiting longshore changes in cliff lithology (material resistance and the proportion of beach grade material in the eroded bedrock). Under Mode A, relative changes in material resistance result in long term heterogeneous rates of retreat, which result in the development of persistent headland and embayment features. However, under Mode B, feedbacks between coastal planshape, longshore sediment transport, beach volume and wave energy result in steady state retreat rates regardless of longshore variations in resistance. Results are compared and contrasted to previous simulations and site specific examples and a conceptual model of Mode A and Mode B interactions presented. Copyright © 2015 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

4.
Assawoman Inlet, Virginia, U.S.A., representative of small mesotidal barrier island tidal inlets exhibits systematic variations of sediment volume among certain of its morphologic elements. Sediment volume variations were calculated from topographic-bathymetric maps of the inlet system, as surveyed on 11 occasions at approximately monthly intervals by a fathometer, and plane table and alidade. Of 36 pairings among nine morphologic elements, seven show statistically significant Pearson Product Moment Correlation Coefficients. The southern ramp margin shoals are negatively correlated with the southern beach face and the northern ramp margin shoals are negatively correlated with the northern beach face on the northern spit. The southern and northern ramp margin shoals themselves are negatively correlated. The southern ramp margin shoals are negatively correlated with the fore flood tidal delta which is negatively correlated with a tidal channel on its landward side. The back flood tidal delta is positively correlated with the northern ramp margin shoals and negatively correlated with the back side of Wallops spit. These associations may be qualitatively explained using wave and tidal climate data during the sampling year plus megaripple and bedding orientations. Constructive waves tend to transfer sediment from the ramp margin shoals landward, building up the adjacent beach faces. Destructive waves tend to move sediment back to the ramp margin shoals. Waves striking the coast obliquely promote asymmetric growth of the shoals, causing the ebb jet to erode into whichever is the smaller shoal.  相似文献   

5.
Profiles were analysed in conjunction with wave climate to assess offshore island influences on an embayed beach at Tenby, Wales. Time series analyses showed medium and short‐term beach oscillation, with volume exchanges between zones lagging by up to six months. Dominant southerly and southwesterly waves caused sub and low tidal longshore drift from south towards north, while less frequent southeasterly waves generated counter drift. Modelled inshore breaking waves had less energy than offshore ones and the former behaved differently between the low and high tidal zones (spring tidal range of 7 · 5 m). Variations in wave direction from directly behind the islands resulted in reduced wave heights and statistical analyses agreed with wave model results. These were correlated to morphological change and it was concluded that offshore islands change wave dynamics and modify the morphology of embayed beaches in their lee. Consequently, this work provides significant new insights into offshore island influences, shoreline behaviour and especially tidal setting Copyright © 2013 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

6.
The intertidal drainage channels on a macrotidal bar–trough (ridge‐and‐runnel) beach were monitored during a 17‐day survey. Type 1 channels were persistent, dominantly longshore systems essentially limited to the wide intertidal zone between mean high and low water neap tidal levels. The cumulative length of this channel type fluctuated as a function of topographically controlled through‐flow or flow impedance in troughs, and showed no correlation with the semi‐lunar tidal cycle. Smaller, ephemeral type 2 channels appeared as dominantly cross‐shore systems incising bars on the narrower upper and lower beach zones during spring tides. They disappeared during neap tides through infill by waves and aeolian activity. The only significant phase of type 1 channel mobility occurred during a brief moderate‐energy storm at the start of the survey. The effect of this mobility on beach morphology was inextricably linked to that of waves and currents. Meander bend migration, forced by wave‐ and longshore‐current‐induced migration of a bar during the storm, resulted in important but highly localized morphological change that was only a minor part of an irregular saw‐tooth pattern of change that affected the entire beach profile, and that was largely controlled by wave processes and longshore currents. The flow velocities in channels on this beach are too weak to generate the formation and longshore migration of high‐energy bedforms. Channel mobility and impact on beach morphology are expected to increase under storm conditions. Copyright © 2007 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

7.
Analysis of grain size statistics of upper foreshore sediments on sand beaches at two tidal inlets in New Jersey, U.S.A. reveals that sediments are coarser at beaches flanking the inlets than updrift, although sediments become finer downdrift at the broad, regional scale. The local reversal of the regional trend in size grading is attributed to: (1) the offshore diversion of the finer sands along the surf zone on the ebb tidal delta, and (2) the removal of the finer sands from the inlet flank beach caused by low wave energy conditions at low stages of the tide and by deflation. Sediments thus become coarser at inlet beaches as a result of alterations in the interaction of waves with the beach and as a result of aeolian processes, not solely as a result of increased tidal current velocities as previously reported. The distance along the New Jersey barrier islands over which inlet processes are likely to affect changes in sediment size updrift averages less than 1100 m, but the impacts of inlets on the sedimentary record can be extended greater distances as a result of inlet migration.  相似文献   

8.
Montjoly is a headland‐bound embayed sandy beach in Cayenne, French Guiana, that shows long‐term plan shape equilibrium in spite of periodic changes in accretion and erosion that alternately affect either end of the beach. These changes are caused by mud banks that move alongshore from the Amazon. The mechanisms involved in changes in the plan shape of the beach in response to the passage of one of these mud banks were monitored between 1997 and 2000 from airborne video imagery and field work. The beach longshore drift to the northwest, driven by the incident easterly to northeasterly swell usually affecting this coast, became temporarily reversed as the mud bank, migrating from east to west, initially sheltered the southeastern end of the beach. The difference in exposure to waves engendered a negative wave height gradient alongshore towards the southeast, resulting in the setting up of a cell circulation and counter‐active longshore drift from the exposed northwestern sector to the southeast. Sand eroded from the exposed sector accumulated first in the southeastern, and then the central sectors of the beach. The effect of increasing beach sheltering by the mudbank moving west is highlighted on the videographs by an ‘arrested’ pattern of beach shoreline development. The videographs show hardly any changes in beach plan shape since January 1999, due to sheltering of the beach from wave attack by the mud bank. It is expected that the eroded sector will recover in the future as the mud bank passes, leading to re‐establishment of the northwesterly sand drift. This temporally phased bi‐directional drift within the confines of the bounding headlands results in a rare example of mud‐bank‐induced beach rotation, and probably explains the long‐term equilibrium plan shape of Montjoly beach. Copyright © 2002 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

9.
Analyses of shoreline and bathymetry change near Calais, northern coast of France, showed that shoreline evolution during the 20th century was strongly related with shoreface and nearshore bathymetry variations. Coastal erosion generally corresponds to areas of nearshore seabed lowering while shoreline progradation is essentially associated with areas of seafloor aggradation, notably east of Calais where an extensive sand flat experienced seaward shoreline displacement up to more than 300 m between 1949 and 2000. Mapping of bathymetry changes since 1911 revealed that significant variation in nearshore morphology was caused by the onshore and alongshore migration of a prominent tidal sand bank that eventually welded to the shore. Comparison of bathymetry data showed that the volume of the bank increased by about 10×107 m3 during the 20th century, indicating that the bank was acting as a sediment sink for some of the sand transiting alongshore in the coastal zone. Several lines of evidence show that the bank also represented a major sediment source for the prograding tidal flat, supplying significant amounts of sand to the accreting upper beach. Simulation of wave propagation using the SWAN wave model (Booij et al., 1999) suggests that the onshore movement of the sand bank resulted in a decrease of wave energy in the nearshore zone, leading to more dissipative conditions. Such conditions would have increased nearshore sediment supply, favoring aeolian dune development on the upper beach and shoreline progradation. Our results suggest that the onshore migration of nearshore sand banks may represent one of the most important, and possibly the primary mechanism responsible for supplying marine sand to beaches and coastal dunes in this macrotidal coastal environment.  相似文献   

10.
Digital elevation models and topographic pro?les of a beach with intertidal bar and trough (ridge‐and‐runnel) morphology in Merlimont, northern France, were analysed in order to assess patterns of cross‐shore and longshore intertidal bar mobility. The beach exhibited a pronounced dual bar–trough system that showed cross‐shore stationarity. The bars and troughs were, however, characterized by signi?cant longshore advection of sand under the in?uence of suspension by waves and transport by strong tide‐ and wind‐driven longshore currents. Pro?le changes were due in part to the longshore migration of medium‐sized bedforms. The potential for cross‐shore bar migration appears to be mitigated by the large size of the two bars relative to incident wave energy, which is modulated by high vertical tidal excursion rates on this beach due to the large tidal range (mean spring tidal range = 8·3 m). Cross‐shore bar migration is also probably hindered by the well‐entrenched troughs which are maintained by channelled high‐energy intertidal ?ows generated by swash bores and by tidal discharge and drainage. The longshore migration of intertidal bars affecting Merlimont beach is embedded in a regional coastal sand transport pathway involving tidal and wind‐forced northward residual ?ows affecting the rectilinear northern French coast in the eastern English Channel. Copyright © 2004 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

11.
Tidal channels are ubiquitous in muddy coastlines and play a critical role in the redistribution of sediments, thus dictating the general evolution of intertidal landforms. In muddy coastlines, the morphology of tidal channels and adjacent marshes strongly depends on the supply of fine sediments from the shelf and on the resuspension of sediments by wind waves. To investigate the processes that regulate sediment fluxes in muddy coastlines, we measured tidal velocity and sediment concentration in Little Constance Bayou, a tidal channel in the Rockefeller State Wildlife Refuge, Louisiana, USA. The tidal measurements were integrated with measurements of wave activity in the bay at the mouth of the channel, thus allowing the quantification of feedbacks between waves and sediment fluxes. Results indicate that the sediment concentration in the channel is directly related to the wave height in the adjacent bay during flood and high slack water, whereas the concentration during ebb depends on local channel velocity. Moreover, the sediment flux during ebb is of the same order of magnitude as the sediment flux during the previous flood, indicating that only a small fraction of transported sediments are stored in the marsh during a tidal cycle. Finally, very low tides, characterized by high ebb velocities, export large volumes of sediment to the ocean. Copyright © 2010 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

12.
Contemporary hydrodynamics and morphological change are examined in a shallow microtidal estuary, located on a wave-dominated coast (Port Stephens, NSW, Australia). Process-based numerical modelling is undertaken by combining modules for hydrodynamics, waves, sediment transport and bathymetry updates. Model results suggest that the complex estuarine bathymetry and geometry give rise to spatial variations in the tidal currents and a marked asymmetry between ebb and flood flows. Sediment transport paths correspond with tidal asymmetry patterns. The SE storms significantly enhance the quantities of sediment transport, while locally generated waves by the westerly strong winds also are capable of causing sediment entrainment and contribute to the delta morphological change. The wave/wind-induced currents are not uniform with flow over shoals driven in the same direction as waves/winds while a reverse flow occurring in the adjacent channel. The conceptual sediment transport model developed in this study shows flood-directed transport occurs on the flood ramp while ebb-directed net transport occurs in the tidal channels and at the estuary entrance. Accretion of the intertidal sand shoals and deepening of tidal channels, as revealed by the model, suggest that sediment-infilling becomes advanced, which may lead to an ebb-dominated estuary. It is likely that a switch from flood- to ebb-dominance occurs during the estuary evolution, and the present-day estuary acts as a sediment source rather than sediment sink to the coastal system. This is conflictive to the expectation drawn from the estuarine morphology; however, it is consistent with previous research suggesting that, in an infilling estuary, an increase in build-up of intertidal flats/shoals can eventually shift an estuary towards ebb dominance. Thus, field data are needed to validate the result presented here, and further study is required to investigate a variety of estuaries in the Australian area.  相似文献   

13.
Lagoonal tidal inlets are a typical morphology of the Central Coast of Vietnam. Recently, navigation channels in these inlets have become increasingly threatened by siltation. This study analyses the relations between sediment distribution and transport trends (using the technique of Sediment Trend Analysis-STA■) in the lagoonal system of the De Gi inlet and then proposes appropriate countermeasures against sand deposition in the navigation channel. The STA identified three types of transport trends in the De Gi inlet, namely dynamic equilibrium, net accretion, and net erosion. Processes associated with the tidal prism have resulted in trends of sediment transport and deposition across the flood and ebb tidal shoals, which maintain a present cross-sectional area of about 1000m^2. However, longshore sediment transport from north to south resulting from northeast waves cause additional sand deposition in the channel. In addition, the effects of refraction associated with a nearby headland and jetty also increase sedimentation. These processes provide the main reasons for sediment deposition in the De Gi inlet. Short term and regular dredging helps to maintain the navigation channel. A system comprised of three jetties (north, south, and weir) is necessary to ensure the longterm cross-sectional stability of the navigation channel.  相似文献   

14.
When waves arrive obliquely to a coast they cause littoral drift, the fluctuations of which result in cycles of erosion and siltation. These are minimised when the resultant wave energy is normal to the beach as the longshore component of energy approaches zero. This situation occurs naturally when headlands exist and the shoreline between them is sculptured into zeta shaped bays with logarithmic spiral plan shape. Waves are then diffracted and refracted into the embayment, arriving at the beach more normally. There is a limiting erosive pattern, for the case of no further input of sediment, where the log spiral and indentation ratio reach values which are predictable. These can then be used to test the stability of that section of coast.  相似文献   

15.
Changes in wind speed and sediment transport are evaluated at a gap and adjacent crest of a 2 to 3 m high, 40 m wide foredune built by sand fences and vegetation plantings on a wide, nourished fine sand beach at Ocean City, New Jersey. Anemometer masts, cylindrical sand traps and erosion pins were placed on the beach and dune during two obliquely onshore wind events in February and March 2003. Results reveal that: (1) changes in the alongshore continuity of the beach and dune system can act as boundaries to aeolian transport when winds blow at an angle to the shoreline; (2) oblique winds blowing across poorly vegetated patches in the dune increase the potential for creating an irregular crest elevation; (3) transport rates and deflation rates can be greater within the foredune than on the beach, if the dune surface is poorly vegetated and the beach has not had time to dry following tidal inundation; (4) frozen ground does not prevent surface deflation; and (5) remnant sand fences and fresh storm wrack have great local but temporary effect on transport rates. Temporal and spatial differences due to sand fences and wrack, changes in sediment availability due to time‐dependent differences in surface moisture and frozen ground, combined with complex topography and patchy vegetation make it difficult to specify cause–effect relationships. Effects of individual roughness elements on the beach and dune on wind flow and sediment transport can be quantified at specific locations at the event scale, but extrapolation of each event to longer temporal and spatial scales remains qualitative. Copyright © 2006 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

16.
Climate warming in the Arctic directly causes two opposite changes in Arctic coastal systems: increased melt‐water discharge through rivers induces extra influx of sediments and extended open water season increases wave impact which reworks and erodes the shores. A shoreline change analysis along the southern coast of Disko Island in western Greenland was conducted with aerial photographs and satellite images from 1964, 1985, and 2012. The decadal morphologic evolution of this 85 km section showed that large parts of the coast had undergone very limited changes. However, two deltas were highly dynamic and popped up as hotspots. The Tuapaat delta and Skansen delta showed large progradation rates (1.5 and 7 m/yr) and migration of the adjacent barriers and spits. The dynamic behavior at the delta mouths was mainly caused by classic delta channel lobe switching at one delta (Tuapaat), and by a breach of the fringing spit at the other delta (Skansen). The longshore and cross‐shore transports are responsible for reworking the sediment with a result of migrating delta mouths and adjacent subaqueous mouth bars. Seaward progradation of the deltas is limited due to the steep nature of the bathymetry in Disko Bay. Finally, a schematic conceptual overview of processes and associated morphological responses for deltas in Arctic environments is presented, including the climate drivers affecting delta evolution. Copyright © 2016 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

17.
Magilligan Point is a recurved cuspate foreland at the mouth of Lough Foyle. Two wave regimes intersect in the estuary mouth and the manner of their interplay controls shoreline changes. Ocean swell waves from the N and NE are refracted around the recurve, losing both height and energy longshore. Width of the surf zone decreases and waves tend to steepen, although both these changes and wave refraction owe something to nearshore geometry. Angle of wave approach becomes more acute and a westerly flowing longshore current moves sand S and SW along the beach. Estuary waves from the S and SW are wind-driven with high-frequencies and steepnesses. They generate a northeasterly current which returns material N, but dies out as the waves become obliterated by nearshore attenuation and breaking of swell. It is possible to identify a time-averaged null-point where shoreline wave power is balanced, although this tends to shift over short periods causing rapid morphological changes. The existence of two independent, but counteractive cells ensures the long-term maintenance of the foreland, without requiring major or continuous supplies of fresh sediment.  相似文献   

18.
An idealized numerical model is developed to study the spatial asymmetry of ebb–tidal deltas under influence of large-scale alongshore tidal currents. It is shown that the asymmetry of the delta depends on the magnitude of the cross-shore and large scale alongshore tidal currents, their phase difference, and on the width of the inlet. Model results are compared with observations of ebb–tidal deltas of the tidal inlet systems of the Dutch Wadden Sea and with the ebb–tidal delta of the Eastern Scheldt, located in the southwestern part of the Netherlands. The modeled current and residual sediment transport patterns agree well with observed ones. The modeled asymmetry of the ebb–tidal delta also agree with observed ones. Furthermore, bottom patterns are consistent with those found with a previous version of the idealized model which focused on the modeling of symmetric ebb–tidal deltas. However, the model is not able to reproduce the observed ebb-dominated channel. The underlying physical processes are explained in terms of vorticity dynamics. The convergence of the mean vorticity flux generates mean vorticity and thereby residual circulation. An analysis shows there is competition between two contributions to the convergence of the mean vorticity flux. This competition explains the sensitivity of the results to the model parameters.  相似文献   

19.
Point of the Mountain spit and Fingerpoint spit are two of the largest geomorphic features of Pleistocene Lake Bonneville of the western Great Basin, USA. The spits and their associated shorelines show distinctly different geomorphic expression and genesis; this is a function of their positions within the lake and the dynamics of the waves and storms that formed them. Mapping of geomorphic features, geometry of erosional features, and detailed lithologic analysis of shoreline deposits are used to determine dominant modes of sediment erosion and deposition. The Point of the Mountain spit, located in the eastern portion of the basin, was formed as a result of highly fractured bedrock in a salient of the Wasatch Front being exposed to wave trains that approached from the north‐northwest causing north‐to‐south longshore sediment transport. Shoreline development and sediment transport on the southern portion of the spit were minimal. The Fingerpoint spit, located on an island in the northwest portion of the basin, was formed by bidirectional longshore sediment transport as the result of waves that approached from both the north‐northeast and the south‐southwest. Spit development is a function of surface wave energy and direction which in turn is the integrated result of wind direction, wind intensity, and fetch. Wave transport direction determined from ?eld measurements at Point of the Mountain spit corresponds very well to the direction of maximum fetch (c. 200 km). For the Fingerpoint spit, the hypothesized wave transport direction from the south corresponds with the direction of maximum fetch (c. 350 km). However, wave energy transport from the north had limited fetch (c. 100 km), implying that wind intensity from the north was relatively large. The geometry of the two large Bonneville spits suggests the predominant wind direction from storms during the Pleistocene was from the north and points the way for future studies that can aid in further understanding the nature of Pleistocene wind ?elds in the Great Basin. Copyright © 2004 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

20.
The potential for rapid coastline modification in the face of sea-level rise or other stressors is alarming, since coasts are often densely populated and support valuable infrastructure. In addition to coastal submergence, nutrient-related water pollution is a growing concern for coastal wetlands. Previous studies found that the Suspended Sediment Concentration (SSC) of coastal wetlands acts as a first-order control of their sustainability, but SSC dynamics are poorly understood. Our study focuses on the Virginia Coast Reserve (VCR) Long Term Ecological Research (LTER) site, a shallow multiple tidal inlet system in the USA. We apply numerical modelling (Delft3D-SWAN) and subsequent analyses to determine SSC dynamics within the VCR. In particular, we consider two important controls on SSC in the system: vegetation (seagrass and salt marsh) and offshore waves. Our results show that vegetation colonies and increased wave energy lengthen water residence time. The reduction in the tidal prism decreases SSC export from the bay via tidal inlets, leading to increased sediment retention in the bay. We found that alongshore currents can enhance lagoon SSC by importing fine sediments from an adjacent inlet along the coastline. Our numerical experiments on vegetation seasonality can improve the understanding of wave climate impact on coastal bay sediment budget. Offshore waves increase sediment export from coastal bays, particularly during winter seasons with low vegetation density. Therefore, our study can help managers and stakeholders to understand how to implement restoration strategies for the VCR. © 2020 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

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