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1.
Many shortcomings in the recent paper by Muraleedharan, Rao, Kurup, Unnikrishnan Nair and Sinha [Coastal Engineering, 2007, in press] are pointed out. 相似文献
2.
In the response given by Le Roux [Le Roux, J.P., 2008. A simple method to determine breaker height and depth for different deepwater wave height/length ratios and sea floor slopes — Reply to discussion by M.C. Haller and P.C. Catalan, Coast. Eng. 55, 185–188] to the discussion of Haller and Catalán [Haller, M.C., Catalan, P.A., 2008. Discussion of “A simple method to determine breaker height and depth for different deepwater wave height/length ratios and sea floor slopes”, by J.P. Le Roux [Coastal Engineering 54 (2007) 271–277], Coast. Eng. 55, 181–184], the author presents a defense of the large number of inconsistencies/errors that we pointed out in regards to the earlier work of Le Roux [Le, Roux, J.P., 2007. A simple method to determine breaker height and depth for different wave height/length ratios and sea floor slopes, Coast. Eng. 54, 271–277]. We appreciate the response for the fact that it further clarifies the lines of reasoning used in the previous work. Unfortunately, we are not convinced by the defenses offered and still posit that the original work contains many inconsistencies and downright calculation errors. We try to avoid repetition herein, and instead of rehashing all of the points made in our previous discussion, we will concentrate on a few fundamental problems that undermine the whole premise of the original paper. We feel it is important to make these clear to the readers of Coastal Engineering. 相似文献
3.
The quantity of coastline retreat resulting from storm erosion is one of the most important phenomena that needs to be accurately quantified to facilitate effective coastal management strategies. Historically, the volume of storm erosion (and coastline retreat) accommodated for coastal planning decisions has been directly linked to the storm (usually defined by considering wave height and duration only) with a certain pre-defined return period, known as a Synthetic Design Storm (SDS) (e.g. 1 in 100 year storm). The SDS method of estimating storm erosion volumes for coastal planning thus assumes that, for example, the 1 in 100 year storm event also results in a 1 in 100 year erosion event. This communication discusses the physical reality of this assumption and demonstrates the improved performance of a new method, based on Joint Probability Distributions (JPD) for estimating storm erosion volumes proposed by Callaghan et al. [Callaghan, D.P., Nielsen, P., Short, A.D. and Ranasinghe, R., 2008. Statistical simulation of wave climate and extreme beach erosion. Coastal Engineering, 55(5): 375–390] using one of the world's longest beach profile surveys from Sydney, Australia. 相似文献
4.
The numerical model COBRAS-UC [Losada, I.J., Lara, J.L., Guanche,R., Gonzalez-Ondina, J.M. (2008). Numerical analysis of wave overtopping of rubble mound breakwaters. Coastal Engineering, Vol 55 (1), 47–62.] is used to carry out a two-dimensional analysis of wave induced loads on coastal structures. The model calculates pressure, forces and moments for two different cross-sections corresponding to a low-mound and a conventional rubble-mound breakwater with a crown-wall under regular and irregular incident wave conditions. Predicted results are compared with experimental information provided in Losada et al. [Losada, I.J., Lara, J.L., Guanche,R., Gonzalez-Ondina, J.M. (2008). Numerical analysis of wave overtopping of rubble mound breakwaters. Coastal Engineering, Vol 55 (1), 47–62.] and Lara et al. [Lara, J.L., Losada, I.J., Guanche, R. (2008). “Wave interaction with low mound breakwaters using a RANS model”. Ocean engineering (35), pp 1388–1400; doi:10.1016/j.oceaneng.2008.05.006.] on a 1:20 scale. Good agreement is found, and the differences between both typologies are explained in detail. Additionally, numerical results are also compared with several semi-empirical formulae recommended for design at both the 1:20 model scale and two prototype cross-sections. Results suggest that COBRAS-UC is able to provide realistic stability information that can be used to complete the approach based on currently existing methods and tools. 相似文献
5.
The method of Wang [Wang, Y.-H., 2007. Formula for predicting bedload transport rate in oscillatory sheet flow. Coastal Engineering 54, 594–601] to predict the wave friction factor is discussed. At the threshold of sediment entrainment the proposed equation produces a wide scatter of data points when plotted against an equation based on the Shields parameter. It is shown that a better correlation coefficient can be obtained by calculating the critical wave friction factor directly from the wave period, as well as the sediment and water properties. 相似文献
6.
The Breaking Celerity Index (BCI) is proposed as a new wave breaking criterion for Boussinesq-type equations wave propagation models (BTE).The BCI effectiveness in determining the breaking initiation location has been verified against data from different experimental investigations conducted with incident regular and irregular waves propagating along uniform slope [Utku, M. (1999). “The Relative Trough Froude Number. A New Criteria for Wave Breaking”. Ph.D. Dissertation, Dept. of Civil and Enviromental Engineering, Old Dominion University, Norfolk, VA; Gonsalves Veloso dos Reis, M.T.L. (1992). “Characteristics of waves in the surf zone”. MS Thesis, Department of Civil Engineering, University of Liverpool., Liverpool; Lara, J.L., Losada, I.J., and Liu, P.L.-F. (2006). “Breaking waves over a mild gravel slope: experimental and numerical analysis”. Journal of Geophysical Research, VOL 111, C11019] and barred beaches [Tomasicchio, G.R., and Sancho, F. (2002). “On wave induced undertow at a barred beach”. Proceedings of 28th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, ASCE, New York, 557–569]. The considered experiments were carried out in small-scale and large-scale facilities. In addition, one set of data has been obtained by the use of the COBRAS model based upon the Reynolds Averaged Navier Stokes (RANS) equations [Liu, P.L.-F., Lin, P., Hsu, T., Chang, K., Losada, I.J., Vidal, C., and Sakakiyama, T. (2000). “A Reynolds averaged Navier–Stokes equation model for nonlinear water wave and structure interactions”. Proceedings of Coastal Structures ‘99, Balkema, Rotterdam, 169–174; Losada, I.J., Lara, J.L., and Liu, P.L.-F. (2005). “Numerical simulation based on a RANS model of wave groups on an impermeable slope”. Proceedings of Fifth International Symposium WAVES 2005, Madrid].Numerical simulations have been performed with the 1D-FUNWAVE model [Kirby, J.T., Wei, G., Chen, Q., Kennedy, A.B., and Dalrymple, R.A. (1998). “FUNWAVE 1.0 Fully Nonlinear Boussinesq Wave Model Documentation and User's Manual”. Research Report No CACR-98-06, Center for Applied Coastal Research, University of Delaware, Newark]. With regard to the adopted experimental conditions, the breaking location has been calculated for different trigger mechanisms [Zelt, J.A. (1991). “The run-up of nonbreaking and breaking solitary waves”. Coastal Engineering, 15, 205–246; Kennedy, A.B., Chen, Q., Kirby, J.T., and Dalrymple, R.A. (2000). “Boussinesq modeling of wave transformation, breaking and run-up. I: 1D”. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, 126, 39–47; Utku, M., and Basco, D.R. (2002). “A new criteria for wave breaking based on the Relative Trough Froude Number”. Proceedings of 28th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, ASCE, New York, 258–268] including the proposed BCI.The calculations have shown that BCI gives a better agreement with the physical data with respect to the other trigger criteria, both for spilling and plunging breaking events, with a not negligible reduction of the calculation time. 相似文献
7.
At high bed shear stress sheet flows often occur in coastal waters in which high-concentration bedload sediments are transported in a thin layer near the bed. This paper firstly constructs a theoretical model (partial differential equations, PDEs) for the intense transport of non-cohesive bedload sediments by unidirectional currents and then seeks a special solution to the PDEs to determine the thickness of the bedload particle–water mixture, which could serve as the “reference height” that is often invoked in numerical computation and simulation of suspended sediment transport in turbulent flows. Moreover, a modified formula is presented to determine the “reference concentration”. Using a “uch” approach the present study derives a 1D formula for predicting bedload transport rate in sheet flows driven by asymmetric waves, with the help of a novel formula for evaluating wave friction factor. The new bedload formula can generically take into account slope angle (positive and negative), wash load concentration in the driving water flow and other factors that affect bedload transport rate. It compares well with measured data in a large-scale wave flume [Dohmen-Janssen, C.M., Hanes, D.M., 2002. Sheet flow dynamics under monochromatic non-breaking waves. Journal of Geophysical Research, 107(C10), 1301–1321], a large-scale oscillatory water tunnel [ Hassan, W.N., Ribberink, J.S., 2005. Transport processes of uniform and mixed sands in oscillatory sheet flow. Coastal Engineering, 52, 745–770] and in a swash zone of natural beach [Masselink, G., Hughes, M.G., 1998. Field investigation of sediment transport in the swash zone. Continental Shelf Research, 18, 1179–1199]. 相似文献
8.
Water level variations due to obliquely incident, shoaling and breaking waves on a plane sloping beach were discussed recently by Hsu et al. (Coastal Engineering, 53, 865–877, 2006). An inconsistency in this work with respect to the set-down, and its implications to circulation offshore of the breakpoint, was pointed out by Shi and Kirby (Coastal Engineering, 55, 1246 – 1249, 2008). Here we extend that discussion to include the surfzone momentum balance and wave-induced set-up. We discuss some remaining inconsistencies in the approximation of the surfzone momentum balance, derive and present a consistent approximation, and validate the new approximation through numerical comparison to a more exact model. 相似文献
9.
Ian L. Turner Paul E. Russell Tony Butt Chris E. Blenkinsopp Gerd Masselink 《Coastal Engineering》2009
This paper replies to TE Baldock's discussion [Coastal Eng. 56 (2009) 380–381] of ‘Measurement of wave-by-wave bed-levels in the swash zone’ by Turner et al. [Coastal Eng. 55 (2008) 1237–1242]. We address and extend the comparison and discussion of ultrasonic bed-level sensors and buried pressure transducers to obtain estimates of the beach face elevation within the swash zone. We demonstrate the use of the former method to obtain many and continuous (every time the beach face is exposed) in-situ estimates of net sediment flux per swash. 相似文献
10.
We develop techniques of numerical wave generation in the time-dependent extended mild-slope equations of Suh et al. [1997. Time-dependent equations for wave propagation on rapidly varying topography. Coastal Engineering 32, 91–117] and Lee et al. [2003. Extended mild-slope equation for random waves. Coastal Engineering 48, 277–287] for random waves using a source function method. Numerical results for both regular and irregular waves in one and two horizontal dimensions show that the wave heights and the frequency spectra are properly reproduced. The waves that pass through the wave generation region do not cause any numerical disturbances, showing usefulness of the source function method in avoiding re-reflection problems at the offshore boundary. 相似文献
11.
Improved representation of breaking wave energy dissipation in parametric wave transformation models
An improved formulation to describe breaking wave energy dissipation is presented and incorporated into a previous parametric cross-shore wave transformation model [Baldock, T.E., Holmes, P., Bunker, S., Van Weert, P., 1998. Cross-shore hydrodynamics within an unsaturated surf zone. Coastal Engineering 34, 173–196]. The new formulation accounts for a term in the bore dissipation equation neglected in some previous modelling, but which is shown to be important in the inner surf zone. The only free model parameter remains the choice of γ, the ratio of wave height to water depth at initial breaking, and a well-established standard parameter is used for all model runs. The proposed model is compared to three sets of experimental data and a previous version of the model which was extensively calibrated against field and laboratory data. The model is also compared to the widely used model presented by Thornton and Guza (1983) [Thornton, E.B., Guza, R.T., 1983. Transformation of wave height distribution. Journal of Geophysical Research 88 (No.C10), 5925–5938]. 相似文献
12.
Recent developments in extreme values modelling have been used to develop a framework for determining the coastal erosion hazard on sandy coastlines. This framework quantitatively reproduced the extreme beach erosion volumes obtained from field measurements at Narrabeen Beach, Australia. This encouraging finding was achieved using Kriebel and Dean's [Kriebel, D.L. and Dean, R.G., 1993. Convolution method for time-dependent beach profile response. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, 119(2): 204–226.] simple beach erosion and accretion model. The method includes allowances for joint probability between all basic erosion variates including; wave height, period and direction, event duration, tidal anomalies and event spacing. A new formulation for the dependency between wave height and period has been developed. It includes the physical wave steepness limitation. Event grouping, where significantly more erosion can occur from two closely spaced storms is handled by temporally simulating the synthetic wave climate and the resulting beach erosion and accretion. 相似文献
13.
The study describes a new fixed-frequency Stokes wave theory that differs from previous Stokes wave theories that fix the wave number. The present wave expansion analytically reveals that the wavelength increases with wave height and exceeds than the wavelength obtained by linear wave theory. A method proposed to comparably transform the wave celerity of Fenton's [Fenton, J.D., 1985. A fifth-order Stokes theory for steady waves. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering 111, 216–234.] wave theory to the present one. A direct calculation of the wavelength is introduced for practical solutions, avoiding the need to solve a nonlinear equation using an iterative numerical method. 相似文献
14.
An empirical modification to the Airy equation for wave celerity reduces to the expression for solitary waves in shallow water whilst retaining its usual form for deep water. The equation yields celerities in reasonable agreement with those for cnoidal waves in intermediate water depths. In this aspect, it is similar to the work described by Le Roux [Le Roux, J.P., 2007. A function to determine wavelength from deep into shallow water based on the length of the cnoidal wave at breaking. Coastal Engineering 54, 770–774]. The empirical modification has been widely applied in computer programs over the past 30 years. 相似文献
15.
This paper considers the problem of estimating long-term predictions of significant wave-height. A method which combines Bayesian methodology and extreme value techniques is adopted. Inferences are based on the Metropolis–Hastings algorithm implemented in an appropriate Markov Chain Monte Carlo scheme. The method is applied to obtain return values of extreme values of significant wave height collected on the northern North Sea. The results are compared with those obtained by Guedes Soares and Scotto [Guedes Soares, C. and Scotto, M.G., 2004. Application of the r-order statistics for long-term predictions of significant wave heights. Coastal Engineering, 51, 387–394]. 相似文献
16.
In designing the coastal structures, the accurate estimation of the wave forces on them is of great importance. In this paper, the influences of the phase difference on wave pressure acting on a composite breakwater installed in the three-dimensional (3-D) wave field are studied numerically. We extend the earlier model [Hur, D.S., Mizutani, N., 2003. Coastal Engineering 47, 329–345] to simulate 3-D wave fields by introducing 3-D Navier–Stokes solver with the Smagorinsky's sub-grid scale (SGS) model. For the validation of the model, the wave field around a 3-D asymmetrical structure installed on a submerged breakwater, in which the complex wave deformations generate, is simulated, and the numerical solutions are compared to the experimental data reported by Hur, Mizutani, Kim [2004. Coastal Engineering (51, 407–420)]. The model is then adopted to investigate 3-D characteristics of wave pressure and force on a caisson of composite breakwater, and the numerical solutions were discussed with respect to the phase difference between harbor and seaward sides induced by the transmitted wave through the rubble mound or the diffraction. The numerical results reveal that wave forces acting on the composite breakwater are significantly different at each cross-section under influence of wave diffraction that is important parameter on 3-D wave interaction with coastal structures. 相似文献
17.
《Coastal Engineering》2001,42(3):219-239
This paper describes an adaptive quadtree-based 2DH wave–current interaction model for evaluating nearly horizontal wave-induced currents in the surf-zone. The model accounts for wave breaking, shoaling, refraction, diffraction, wave–current interaction, set-up and set-down, mixing processes (turbulent diffusion), bottom frictional effects, and movement of the land–water interface at the shoreline. The wave period- and depth-averaged governing equations, which conserve mass, momentum, energy and wave action, are discretised explicitly by means of an Adams–Bashforth second-order finite difference technique on adaptive hierarchical staggered quadtree grids. Grid adaptation is achieved through seeding points distributed according to flow criteria (e.g. local current gradients). The model is verified for nearshore circulation at a sinusoidal beach and nearshore currents at a multi-cusped beach. Reasonable agreement is obtained with experimental data from da Silva Lima [da Silva Lima, S.S.L., 1981. Wave-induced Nearshore Currents. PhD Thesis, Department of Civil Engineering, University of Liverpool] and Borthwick et al. [Borthwick, A.G.L., Foote, Y.L.M., Ridehalgh, A., 1997. Nearshore measurements at a cusped beach in the UK Coastal Research Facility, Coastal Dynamics '97, Plymouth, 953–962]. The modelling approach presented herein should be useful in simulating nearshore processes in complicated natural coastal domains. Of particular value is the local grid enrichment capability, which permits refined modelling of important localised flow behaviour such as rip currents and surf-zone circulation systems. 相似文献
18.
《Coastal Engineering》1999,37(2):149-174
Crown walls are primarily built to reduce wave overtopping of mound breakwaters. Several methods have been proposed to calculate wave loads on the crown wall, e.g., Iribarren and Nogales [Iribarren, R., Nogales, C., 1964. Obras Marı́timas. Dossat (Ed.), Madrid, 376 pp.], Jensen [Jensen, O.J., 1984. A Monograph on Rubble Mound Breakwaters. Danish Hydraulic Institute] and Günbak and Gökce [Günbak, A.R., Gökce, T., 1984. Wave screen stability of rubble-mound breakwaters. International Symposium of Maritime Structures in the Mediterranean Sea. Athens, Greece, pp. 2.99–2.112]. In this paper, a new method based on those previous results, and on further experimental work, using monochromatic waves, is presented. The application of the new method requires waves breaking on the armour layer; i.e., only broken waves will reach the crown wall. The method is extended to irregular waves via the hypothesis of equivalence introduced by Saville [Saville, T., 1962. An approximation of the wave run-up frequency distribution. Proc. 8th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Mexico City] and is applied to the crown walls of Gijón and Bilbao breakwaters in Spain. The comparison of the probability force distributions obtained by the present method to that measured by Burcharth et al. [Burcharth, H.F., Frigaard, P., Berenguer, J.M., Gonzalez, B., Uzcanga, J., Villanueva, J., 1995. Design of the Ciervana breakwater, Bilbao. In: T. Telford (Ed.), Proc. 4th Coastal Structures and Breakwaters, Chap. 3. Institution of Civil Engineers] and Jensen (1984) is relatively good. 相似文献
19.
Extended Boussinesq equations for rapidly varying topography 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
We developed a new Boussinesq-type model which extends the equations of Madsen and Sørensen [1992. A new form of the Boussinesq equations with improved linear dispersion characteristics. Part 2. A slowly varying bathymetry. Coastal Engineering 18, 183-204.] by including both bottom curvature and squared bottom slope terms. Numerical experiments were conducted for wave reflection from the Booij's [1983. A note on the accuracy of the mild-slope equation. Coastal Engineering 7, 191-203] planar slope with different wave frequencies using several types of Boussinesq equations. Madsen and Sørensen's model results are accurate in the whole slopes in shallow waters, but inaccurate in intermediate water depths. Nwogu's [1993. Alternative form of Boussinesq equation for nearshore wave propagation. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering 119, 618-638] model results are accurate up to 1:1 (V:H) slope, but significantly inaccurate for steep slopes. The present model results are accurate up to the slope of 1:1, but somewhat inaccurate for very steep slopes. Further, numerical experiments were conducted for wave reflections from a ripple patch and also a Gaussian-shaped trench. For the two cases, the results of Nwogu's model and the present model are accurate, because these models include the bottom curvature term which is important for the cases. However, Madsen and Sørensen's model results are inaccurate, because this model neglects the bottom curvature term. 相似文献
20.
The significant wave representation method is the simplest method for computing the transformation of significant wave height across-shore. However, many engineers are reluctant to use this method because many researchers have pointed out that the method possibly contains a large estimation error. Nevertheless, Rattanapitikon et al. [Rattanapitikon, W., Karunchintadit, R., Shibayama, T., 2003. Irregular wave height transformation using representative wave approach. Coastal Engineering Journal, JSCE 45(3), 489–510.] showed that the wave representation method could be used to compute the transformation of root mean square wave heights. It may also be possible to use it for computing the significant wave height transformation. Therefore, this study was carried out to examine the possibility of simulating significant wave height transformation across-shore by using the significant wave representation method. Laboratory data from small- and large-scale wave flumes were used to calibrate and examine the models. Six regular wave models were applied directly to irregular waves by using the significant wave height and spectral peak period. The examination showed that three regular wave models (with new coefficients) could be used to compute the significant wave height transformation with very good accuracy. On the strength of both accuracy and simplicity of the three models, a suitable model is recommended for computing the significant wave height transformation. The suitable model was also modified for better predictions. The modified model (with different coefficients) can be used to compute either regular wave height or significant wave height transformation across-shore. 相似文献