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1.
Mahmoud M. El Banna 《Environmental Geology》2007,52(1):41-49
Beach profile data, covering the coast of Ras El Bar, northeast Nile Delta, collected during the years from 1990 to 2002 combined
with landsat images for the area and sedimentological investigation have been used to identify beach and nearshore seafloor
sediment changes. Along the coast of Ras El Bar, two accretion sectors and one of erosion have been recognized. The first
accretion sector is located west of Damietta harbour, where the harbour jetties have halted the littoral transport, while
the second one is behind a system of detached breakwaters protecting Ras El Bar resort. Both the two sectors are characterized
by growing shoreline with maximum rates ∼15 and 10 m/year, respectively. Also, they have maximum nearshore seafloor accretion
rates of ∼18 and 22 cm/year, respectively. The erosion sector is located east of Damietta port and has a maximum rate of shoreline
retreat ∼−10 m/year. Erosion of its nearshore seafloor is indicated recording a maximum rate of ∼−20 cm/year. The rate of
net sediment volume change in the area indicates shifting of the accretion sector (II) westward, responding to installation
of the new breakwaters unit. The two accretion sectors are characterized by dominance of moderately sorted fine sands in their
shore area which change seaward into less sorting very fine sands. Beach sands of the eroded sector are poorly sorted medium
grain size. The dominant constituents of heavy mineral species in beach and sea-bottom sands are the characteristic assemblages
of the Nile deposits. The sands of the eroded zone are relatively enriched in monazite, zircon, tourmaline, garnet, and rutile. 相似文献
2.
三亚海岸演变与人工海滩设计研究* 总被引：12，自引：0，他引：12
三亚海岸位于海南岛南部,属弱潮海区,以来自开阔外海的偏南向风浪为海岸优势动力。三亚海岸经历了从基岩港湾海岸到岬角与港湾相间的海蚀-海积海岸的发育演化过程,沙坝(沙咀)发育始于中更新世初期,珊瑚礁发育始于8kaB.P. ,目前海岸总体处于相对平衡发展阶段。对三亚地区海岸地貌、动力及泥沙运动的调查研究,总结三亚湾及其周边不同类型海滩的特点,提取其海滩参数。依据处于不同发展时期的自然海滩形成演变的条件和规律,设计建构三亚白排人工海滩的关键参数。设计海滩总长度约400m,宽度\{40~\}50m,坡度4.5°~5.0°,相对高度约2m,填砂M为0.5,以粒径1.0~\}0.5mm的粗砂为主,总填砂量48000m3。从滩面物质和滩面坡度两个关键方面,利用代表性的数学模型,检验了设计海滩的稳定性。本项研究旨在服务白排人工海滩建设,研究方法对海滩侵蚀防护与同类海岸工程建设等具有参考价值。 相似文献
3.
Handling and visualizing of beach profile data using visual programming provides better and more user-friendly effects to
geologists, environmentalists, and policy makers. Several computer programs are available to visualize beach profile data.
But in all programs, the raw field data cannot be used to calculate the sediment erosion and accretion. In this report, we
describe the development of a simple piece of software BEACH using Visual Basic 6.0 that can store and analyze large volumes
of profile survey data obtained from graduated pole or level surveys. The program precisely calculates the beach width, slope,
and sediment volume above any user-specified datum. It also estimates the erosion and accretion made in a beach. This program
is very useful for coastal zone management and environmental impact assessment studies. 相似文献
4.
The structure and development of foredunes on a locally prograding coast: insights from ground-penetrating radar surveys, Norfolk, UK 总被引：5，自引：0，他引：5
The internal structure of coastal foredunes from three sites along the north Norfolk coast has been investigated using ground‐penetrating radar (GPR), which provides a unique insight into the internal structure of these dunes that cannot be achieved by any other non‐destructive or geophysical technique. Combining geomorphological and geophysical investigations into the structure and morphology of these coastal foredunes has enabled a more accurate determination of their development and evolution. The radar profiles show the internal structures, which include foreslope accretion, trough cut and fill, roll‐over and beach deposits. Foredune ridges contain large sets of low‐angle cross‐stratification from dune foreslope accretion with trough‐shaped structures from cut and fill on the crest and rearslope. Foreslope accretion indicates sand supply from the beach to the foreslope, while troughs on the dune crest and rearslope are attributed to reworking by offshore winds. Bounding surfaces between dunes are clearly resolved and reveal the relative chronology of dune emplacement. Radar sequence boundaries within dunes have been traced below the water‐table passing into beach erosion surfaces. These are believed to result from storm activity, which erodes the upper beach and dunes. In one example, at Brancaster, a dune scarp and erosion surface may be correlated with erosion in the 1950s, possibly the 1953 storm. Results suggest that dune ridge development is intimately linked to changes in the shoreline, with dune development associated with coastal progradation while dunes are eroded during storms and, where beaches are eroding, a stable coast provides more time for dune development, resulting in higher foredune ridges. A model for coastal dune evolution is presented, which illustrates stages of dune development in response to beach evolution and sand supply. In contrast to many other coastal dune fields where the prevailing wind is onshore, on the north Norfolk coast, the prevailing wind is directed along the coast and offshore, which reduces the landward migration of sand dunes. 相似文献
5.
The aim of the present research was to investigate the seasonal impact on nearshore beach dynamics and the status of heavy mineral distribution along central Tamil Nadu coast, India. Beach profile measurements were made in 10 profiling sites between Thirukadaiyur and Velankanni on monthly and seasonal basis from January 2011 to July 2012. Using beach profile data, variation in beach width, slope and volumetric changes have been calculated. Beach slope and nearshore wave parameters were used to quantify the longshore sediment transport rate. Beaches between Thirukadaiyur and Karaikkal attained predominant transport rate in northern direction whereas, the rest of the beaches are in southern direction. The seasonal action of wind and wave currents create nearshore bar during northeast (NE) monsoon and frequent berms at tidal zone during southwest (SW) monsoon. Surface sediment samples were collected in each location for quantifying the heavy mineral weight percentage during the period of pre- and post-Thane cyclone. Sediments were also studied by X-ray diffraction (XRD) to evaluate the changes and occurrence of heavy minerals in beach sands. The XRD results show that sediments in the study area have enriched heavy mineral distribution even after strong cyclonic event. It confirms the redistribution of heavy mineral deposits present in the coast. The results suggested that monsoonal action has influenced the seasonal changes in beach morphology and it does not affect the heavy mineral distribution. 相似文献
6.
全面准确评估海滩的时空演变,是海滩侵蚀防护的前提;基于卫星图像资源全面准确评估海滩的时空演变,对于缺乏长期连续实测数据的海滩的侵蚀防护具有重要意义。本研究基于谷歌地球引擎合成并下载灵南海滩(灵山湾南部海滩)1984—2021年的880幅卫星图像,聚焦海滩剖面提取干湿线和水边线在剖面上的位置;结合模拟潮位分析海滩剖面形态,计算海滩坡度和平均高、低潮线等,采用多指标研究灵南海滩的时空演变;结合历史资料分析影响灵南海滩演变的主要因素,并利用海滩实测数据评估利用卫星图像提取的海滩岸线的误差。结果表明,大量卫星图像的应用提高了研究结果的时间分辨率、精度和可靠性。在1984—2021年间,灵南海滩部分岸段发生了阶段性快速侵蚀,侵蚀速率为5.2~60 m/a,总侵蚀量达30~78 m,持续时间为0.5~11年,该快速侵蚀主要是挖沙、养殖场改建和废弃等人为因素造成的,风暴潮起次要的辅助作用。除上述快速侵蚀时段外,灵南海滩普遍发生慢速侵蚀,侵蚀速率一般小于2 m/a,这是相对海平面上升和河流入海泥沙锐减等的结果。 相似文献
7.
Nancy L. Jackson 《Estuaries and Coasts》1999,22(2):215-223
Predicting erosion and accretion of sand beaches in estuaries is important to managing shoreline development and identifying
potential relationships between biological productivity and beach change. Wave, sediment and profile data, gathered over twenty-nine
days on an estuarine sand beach in Delaware Bay, New Jersey, were used to evaluate the performance of four criteria that predict
beach erosion and accretion due to wave-induced cross-shore sediment movement (Dean 1973; Sunamura and Horikawa 1974; Hattori
and Kawamata 1980; Kraus et al. 1991). Each criterion defines a relation, between a wave and sediment parameter, and includes
a coefficient that discriminates beach erosion and accretion events. Relations, based on small-scale laboratory and field
data, were evaluated for predicting erosion or accretion at the study site. Significant wave heights at the study site, monitored
near high water, ranged from 0.08 to 0.52 m with periods of 2.4 to 12.8 s. Median grain sizes of sediments on the beach foreshore,
gathered at low water, ranged from 0.33 to 0.73 mm. All four criteria showed a clustering of erosion and accretion events.
Relations derived from small-scale laboratory data were better predictors of erosion on the profile at the field site than
those derived from field data gathered on exposed ocean environments. The planar profile and dominance of incident waves of
low height and short period are similar to laboratory conditions characterized by initial planar beach slopes and monochromatic
waves. Decreasing the value of the empirical coefficient to account for the differences in the magnitude of wave energy and
grain size increases the performance of the criteria tested to predict erosion of the profile. 相似文献
8.
N. P. Kurian K. Rajith T. S. Shahul Hameed L. Sheela Nair M. V. Ramana Murthy S. Arjun V. R. Shamji 《Natural Hazards》2009,49(2):325-345
Wind waves in the innershelf of the south-central Kerala coast, south-west India were measured at four locations during different
seasons. Simultaneously, numerical models were developed to simulate the wave and sediment transport regime of the innershelf.
Strong monsoonal influence is seen in the wave characteristics with greater amplitudes, lower periods and switch-over from
SW to SWW–W direction. The net annual longshore sediment transport is southerly in the innershelf and northerly in the surf
zone. These counter-directional transports are linked by seasonally reversing the cross-shore transports. In the locations
where the transports in the longshore and cross-shore directions are balanced, stable beaches prevail. Erosion/accretion tendency
prevails in locations where these transports are not balanced. The southern and northern parts of the coast where onshore
transports are predominant could be accreting zones. The erosion/accretion pattern deduced from the sediment transport model
corresponds well with the long-term erosion/accretion trend for this coast. 相似文献
9.
滩坝砂体研究是辽河西部凹陷曙北地区断陷湖盆勘探的新领域。文章分析了曙北滩坝砂体的主要控制因素是古地
貌、古水深、古物源和古风场等,即“风-源-盆”三端元系统,并提出了定量恢复四个控制因素的方法。结果表明,曙北
滩坝主要发育于微观古地貌水下低隆起部位;形成曙北滩坝有利水深大约7 m;滩坝物源来自于三角洲改造、古潜山剥蚀
和岸线基岩侵蚀;滩坝的形成受到南北季风影响,风力达8级。根据控制因素将曙北滩坝发育区分为沿岸带、潜山带、潜
山披覆带、北部斜坡带和深洼带五个带,其中潜山披覆带最有利于滩坝发育。 相似文献
10.
This study evaluates the impacts resulting from the construction of two large-scale detached breakwater systems on the Nile delta coast of Egypt at Baltim and Ras El Bar beaches (~18.3 km shoreline length). The two protective systems were installed in a water depth of between 3 and 4 m and consist of 17 units in total (each ~250 m long). A comprehensive monitoring program spanning the years 1990 to 2002 was implemented and included beach-nearshore profiles, grain size distribution of seabed sand and information related to the background coastal processes. Evaluation of these systems concentrates on the physical impacts on coastal morphodynamics, mitigation and their design implications. The beach and nearshore sedimentation (erosion/accretion patterns) and grain texture of seabed sediment in the study areas have been substantially disrupted due to the interruption of longshore transport by the shore-parallel detached breakwaters. Rate of shoreline and seabed changes as well as alongshore sediment volume have been substantially affected, resulting in accretion in the breakwater landward sides (tombolo or salient) followed by downdrift erosion. The preconstruction beach erosion at Baltim (–5 m/year) and at Ras El Bar (–6 m/year) has been replaced, respectively, by the formation of sand tombolo (35 m/year) and salient (9 m/year). On the other hand, beach erosion has been substantially increased in the downdrift sides of these protective systems, being –20 m/year at Baltim and –9 m/year at Ras El Bar. Further seaward, the two protective systems at Baltim and Ras El Bar have accumulated seabed sand at maximum rates of 30 and 20 cm/year and associated with downdrift erosion of –45 and –20 cm/year, respectively. Strong gyres and eddies formed in the breakwater gabs have drastically affected swimmers and subsequently caused a significant number of drownings each summer, averaging 35 and 67 victims/year at Baltim and Ras El Bar beaches, respectively. This study provides baseline information needed to help implement mitigation measures for these breakwater systems. 相似文献
11.
K. V. S. R. Prasad S. V. V. Arun Kumar Ch. Venkata Ramu P. Sreenivas 《Natural Hazards》2009,49(2):347-360
The nearshore parameters, viz., wave runup, wave setup, and wave energy have been estimated during storm and normal conditions
of SW monsoon (June–September) and NE monsoon (November–February) by empirical parameterization along Visakhapatnam coast.
These results were compared with the field observations during three storms of SW monsoon season in the year 2007. The higher
nearshore wave energies were observed at R.K. Beach, Jodugullapalem beach, and Sagarnagar beach during both the seasons. During
storm events, the higher wave energies associated with higher wave runups cause severe erosion along the wave convergence
zones. The storm wave runups (SWRUs) were higher at R.K. Beach, Palm beach, Jodugullapalem beach, and Sagarnagar Beach. The
yearly low wave energy was observed at Lawson’s Bay with lowest wave runup, considered as safest zone. R.K. Beach, Palm beach,
and Jodugullapalem beach are identified as vulnerable zones of wave attack. It is noteworthy that in addition to wave energies,
wave runups and wave setups also play a vital role in endangering the coast. 相似文献
12.
Many drowning and near drownings at Pensacola Beach, Florida are attributed to rip currents, the strong seaward-flowing currents that extend from the shoreline to the line of breakers and sometimes beyond. While surf forecasts assume that the rip hazard is uniform alongshore and that the (erosion) rips are ephemeral features, evidence is presented to suggest that the rip hazard at Pensacola Beach is not uniform alongshore. Rather the rip current “hotspots” develop as a consequence of an alongshore variation in the surf similarity parameter and nearshore state on the order of ~1,450 m. The variation is forced by transverse ridges on the inner shelf that force wave refraction and focusing at the ridge crests. This creates a more dissipative, rhythmic bar and beach morphology at the ridges and rougher surf. Between ridges, where wave heights and periods are smaller and the outermost bar is forced closer to the shoreline, the nearshore is in a (more reflective) bar and rip state during red flag conditions. Drownings between 2000 and 2009 are shown to be clustered between transverse ridges and in the years following a hurricane or tropical storm (2000–2003 and 2005–2008) when the bar and rip morphology first develops as the shore face recovers. This continues until the innermost bar attaches to the beach face unless the bar system is reset by another tropical storm or hurricane. It is argued that the rip hazard is dependent on the alongshore covariation of the environmental forcing with the individual and group behavior in both time and space, even on what appears to be a relatively uniform beach environment. 相似文献
13.
Aerial photographs taken in the 1963 and 2001 and bathymetric charts, in conjunction with coastal processes are analyzed to assess changes in rate of shoreline position, seabed level, and seabed grain sizes along the Tabarka–Berkoukech beach at the north-western Tunisian coastline. The littoral cell of this beach, 12-km-long, is bounded by pronounced embayments and rocky headlands separated by sandy stretches. Although not yet very much undeveloped, this littoral is still experienced degradation and modification, especially along its shoreline, with significant coastal erosion at some places. Results obtained from analysis of shoreline position indicate that El Morjene Beach is experienced a landward retreat of more than −62 m, at a maximum rate of −1.64 m/year, whereas the El corniche beach is advanced about 16–144 m, at an average rate of 0.42 m–3.78 m/year. This beach accretion has been formed on the updrift side of the Tabarka port constructed between 1966 and 1970. Comparison of bottom contours deduced from bathymetric charts surveyed in 1881 and 1996 off the coastline between Tabarka Port and El Morjene Beach identifies erosional areas (sediment source) and accretionary zones (sediment sink). Erosion (0.87–4.35 cm/year) occurs between El kebir River Mouth and El Morjene beach, whereas accretion exists in the zone down wind of the port ranges between 0.87 and 5.21 cm/year. Morphological analyses of the shoreline and the seabed of the study nearshore area indicate that shoreline retreat corresponds to areas of seabed scour (sediment source) while shoreline accretion is associated with areas of seabed deposition (sediment sink). Furthermore, simulation of wave propagation using STWAVE model combined with grain size distributions of the seabed shows that fine sands are much dominated in depositional areas with low wave energy, whereas coarser sands in erosive zones with high wave energy. The results obtained suggest that the change of seabed morphology, wave height pattern and grain size sediment have a great influence on the modification of shoreline morphology and dynamics. 相似文献
14.
大型水库运行改变了坝下游水沙条件,引起河床冲淤、洲滩形态等适应性调整,尤其是近坝段沙质河床的响应最为敏感。以三峡大坝下游近坝段沙质河段为研究对象,采用1955-2018年水沙数据与1975-2018年地形资料,研究了河床冲淤量及河床形态、洲滩形态演变及联动关系等。研究表明：伴随流域来沙量减少,1975-2018年河床为累积冲刷态势,枯水河槽冲刷量占总冲刷量的93.1%,同步发生洲滩面积减少、深泓下切;以2009年分界,滩槽冲淤逐渐由"低滩冲刷,高滩淤积"逐渐向"低滩、高滩均冲"转变;受来沙量锐减、河道采砂活动等影响,2013年以来河床冲刷强度显著增大,疏浚抛泥对滩槽冲淤的影响较小;航道工程实施前滩群演变关联性强,太平口心滩发育与头部下移引起腊林洲边滩上段面积减小并后退,对应腊林洲边滩尾部面积增大且淤宽,使得三八滩面积减小且右缘蚀退,金城洲逐渐由边滩演变为心滩;航道工程实施后太平口心滩与腊林洲边滩上段关联性减弱,受航道工程及疏浚抛泥等影响腊林洲边滩下段淤宽,引起三八滩维持面积持续减小、右缘后退及左移态势,促使金城洲萎缩且分散。 相似文献
15.
Shore-normal and shore-parallel variations in grain size statistics of beach sand have been studied over a period of one year
along the Kakinada-Mulapeta coast. The southern beaches of this coast have been accretionary while the northern ones erosional
since 125 years. The grain size gradings, beach and nearshore processes help in identifying (i) the Groins-fishing harbour
beach influenced predominantly by the tidal regime. (ii) the Mulapeta-Vakalapudi beach influenced by refracted wave regime
and (iii) the Vakalapudi-fishing harbour beach affected by both wave and tidal regimes at relatively subdued levels. 相似文献
16.
Barendra Purkait 《Frontiers of Earth Science》2009,3(1):21-33
Coastal erosion at Sagar Island of Sunderban delta, India, has been critically studied. The area is in the subtropical humid
region. There are mainly three seasons viz: winter, summer and the monsoon. Different wave dynamic parameters were measured
from theodolite observations with leveling staff and measuring gauges during lunar days at two sections of the western and
eastern parts of the coastal zone during post-and pre-monsoons. A comparative study was made on the erosion/depositional pattern
between the two sections in relation to different hydrodynamic parameters prevailing in these two sections. Plane table mapping
was carried out to demarcate the different geomorphic units. The marine coastal landforms show dune ridges with intervening
flats bordered by gently sloping beach on one side and a flat beach on the other side. The western part of the beach is mainly
sandy; whereas the eastern part is silty and clayey with mud bank remnants. Actual field measurements indicate that the coastal
dune belt has retreated to the order by about 20 m since 1985. The eastern part of the beach has lowered by about 2 m since
1985 and the western part was raised almost to the same tune. It is observed that accretion in the western and central parts
of the beach took place; whereas severe erosion in the eastern part made the beach very narrow with remnants of mud banks
and tree roots. Frequent embankment failures, submergence and flooding, beach erosion and siltation at jetties and navigational
channels, cyclones and storm surges made this area increasingly vulnerable. 相似文献
17.
玉带沙是海南岛东部博鳌万泉河口的一条细长沙嘴,也是我国重要旅游海滩之一。为了揭示近期玉带沙的冲淤演变趋势,选择了1988年以来4个年份的RS图像,利用现场GPS监测的海滩地形推算出校正后的低潮位水边线,并使用GIS软件计算各年份低潮线以上的玉带沙面积。结果表明：1988～2005年玉带沙呈显著蚀退趋势,平均蚀退70m（4.1m/a）,面积减少35%。分析认为：玉带沙蚀退主要原因是海平面上升和万泉河入海泥沙的减少。在气候变化与人类活动的双重作用下,玉带沙呈现高度脆弱性,值得关注。 相似文献
18.
The largest plain in the North Vietnam has formed by the redundant sediment of the Red River system. Sediment supply is not equally distributed, causing erosion in some places. The paper analyzes the evolvement and physical mechanism of the erosion. The overlay of five recent topographical maps (1930, 1965, 1985, 1995, and 2001) shows that sediment redundantly deposits at some big river mouths (Ba Lat, Lach, and Day), leading to rapid accretion (up to 100 m/y). Typical mechanism of delta propagation is forming and connecting sand bars in front of the mouths. Erosion coasts are distributed either between the river mouths (Hai Hau) or nearby them (Giao Long, Giao Phong, and Nghia Phuc). The evolvement of erosion is caused by wave-induced longshore southwestward sediment transport. Meanwhile sediment from the river mouths is not directed to deposit nearshore. The development of sand bars can intensively reduce the erosion rate nearby river mouths. Erosion in Hai Hau is accelerated by sea level rise and upstream dams. Sea dike stability is seriously threatened by erosion-induced lowering of beach profiles, sea level rise, typhoon, and storm surge. 相似文献
19.
A beach deposit on the southern end of the Baudo Mountain Range, at an elevation of ∼2.0 m above the backshore of the modern beach, was dated at ∼2870 years using optically stimulated luminescence dating. The calculated average uplift rate necessary to raise this deposit is 0.7 mm/yr. This rate combines the long-term regional deformation associated with the subduction of the Nazca Plate under the South American Plate and the collision of the Choco Block microplate against the South American continent, as well as uplift from local faults. We propose that rapid emergence probably as several pulses, each involving decimeter scale coseismic uplift, is likely to have occurred to elevate the beach above the intertidal zone and offset destructive wave erosion. 相似文献
20.
滩坝砂体是岩性油气藏勘探的重要储集体,已经成为中国陆相湖盆增储上产的重要现实领域。为了深入评价柴达木盆地西部扎哈泉地区新近系中新统上干柴沟组滨浅湖滩坝砂体的油气勘探前景以及预测有利勘探区带和勘探目标,文中在岩心观察和钻(测)井资料综合分析的基础上,结合岩石薄片、累计粒度概率曲线、暗色泥岩泥地比和砂地比敏感参数分析结果,对该地区上干柴沟组滨浅湖滩坝砂体发育演化特征和古地貌演化特征进行了详细研究。结果表明: (1)扎哈泉地区上干柴沟组沉积时期发育辫状三角洲—滨浅湖沉积体系,滩坝砂体发育,岩性主要为岩屑长石细砂岩—极细砂岩,成分成熟度中等—较差、分选磨圆度中等—好,粒度概率曲线以反映波浪作用的两段跳跃式加悬浮式为主;沉积构造类型多样,主要发育浪成沙纹交错层理、波状层理、丘状交错层理和透镜状层理。(2)上干柴沟组沉积时期,研究区滩坝砂体发育规模先增大后减小;早期到中期,滩坝砂体发育规模不断增大,其中近岸坝主要表现为向南和向东2个方向扩张,呈北偏西方向展布,远岸坝主要表现为南北方向扩张,呈近北西—南东方向展布;中期到晚期,滩坝砂体的发育规模不断减小,其中近岸坝主要表现为向南北2个方向收缩并向东扩展,展布方向变为东偏南转东北方向,远岸坝主要表现为南北方向收缩。(3)上干柴沟组沉积时期,研究区古地貌呈西高东低、南北低中间高的特征;从早期到中期,研究区中部古地貌高点不断向东和东南方向大幅度扩展,范围不断扩大;中期到晚期,古地貌高点范围不断向北和北西2个方向收缩,范围缩小;同时,研究区东南角古地貌高点范围不断向北扩大。综合上述分析结果,认为柴达木盆地扎哈泉地区上干柴沟组滩坝砂体发育演化受控于物源规模大小和微古地貌的发育演化,其中微古地貌发育演化是滩坝砂体发育演化的主要控制因素。研究成果可为相似的地质背景下滩坝砂体成因的岩性圈闭预测提供参考。 相似文献