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1.
考虑底摩擦的波浪折射计算 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
本文用考虑底摩擦的折射模式计算了浅水中波高和波向分布。作为一个例子,根据不同的摩擦系数和不同的边界条件计算了一种简单海底地形的折射系数、衰减系数和折射角,所得结果与不考虑底摩擦的折射模式结果进行比较,发展它们之间存在一些差异,表明在浅水中底摩擦对波高有一定影响。 相似文献
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A numerical model to compute wave field is developed. It is based on the Berkhoff diffraction-refraction equation, in which an energy dissipation term is added, to take into account the breaking and the bottom friction phenomena. The energy dissipation function, by breaking and by bottom friction, is introduced in the Berkhoff equation to obtain a new equation of propagation.The resolution is done with the hybrid finite element method, where lagrangians elements are used. 相似文献
4.
Hurricane Ike (2008), with its associated storm surge, caused extensive damage across parts of the northwestern Gulf Coast when it made landfall in the late hours of September 12, 2008 along the upper Texas coast at the upper end of Category 2 intensity. An extensive instrumentation effort allowed the collection of both nearshore and inland wave and water level data as Hurricane Ike passed the Louisiana coast and made landfall in Texas. This article presents the results of a validation effort for the STWAVE model and the bottom friction coefficients applied in the model with comparisons to the Hurricane Ike measured wave data. Examination of STWAVE model results as contour plots and time series of wave height and period; wave spectra at selected time steps and scatter plots of simulated versus modeled wave results allow evaluation of the model performance. STWAVE model results indicate good agreement with the measured nearshore wave data for an open water Manning ‘n’ bottom friction coefficient equal to 0.03 s/m0.33. STWAVE model results indicate good agreement with the measured inshore wave data with Manning ‘n’ bottom friction coefficients equal to values derived from land classification data and applied in the ADCIRC model. 相似文献
5.
Chitra Arora B. Prasad Kumar Indu Jain Ashoke Bhar A. C. Narayana 《Marine Geodesy》2013,36(2-3):261-281
The development of a theoretical model for estimating bottom boundary layer characteristics in the Hooghly estuary, located in the east coast of India, under combined effects of waves and currents is reported. Three numerical models, viz a depth averaged hydrodynamic model, SWAN wave model, and bottom boundary layer model, were integrated. In the bottom boundary layer parameters, maximum bottom stress, effective friction factor, and near-bed velocity both during ebb and flood phases of the tidal forcing are investigated and validated for the Haldia channel. The close match seen from results signifies applicability of this model for entire Hooghly basin. 相似文献
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This study deals with the general numerical model to simulate the two-dimensional tidal flow, flooding wave (long wave) and shallow water waves (short wave). The foundational model is based on nonlinear Boussinesq equations. Numerical method for modelling the short waves is investigated in detail. The forces, such as Coriolis forces, wind stress, atmosphere and bottom friction, are considered. A two-dimensional implicit difference scheme of Boussinesq equations is proposed. The low-reflection outflow open boundary is suggested. By means of this model,both velocity fields of circulation current in a channel with step expansion and the wave diffraction behind a semi-infinite breakwater are computed, and the results are satisfactory. 相似文献
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《Coastal Engineering》2001,43(2):131-148
Four different expressions for wave energy dissipation by bottom friction are intercompared. For this purpose, the SWAN wave model and the wave data set of Lake George (Australia) are used. Three formulations are already present in SWAN (ver. 40.01): the JONSWAP expression, the drag law friction model of Collins and the eddy–viscosity model of Madsen. The eddy–viscosity model of Weber was incorporated into the SWAN code. Using Collins' and Weber's expressions, the depth- and fetch-limited wave growth laws obtained in the nearly idealized situation of Lake George can be reproduced. The wave model has shown the best performance using the formulation of Weber. This formula has some advantages over the other formulations. The expression is based on theoretical and physical principles. The wave height and the peak frequency obtained from the SWAN runs using Weber's bottom friction expression are more consistent with the measurements. The formula of Weber should therefore be preferred when modelling waves in very shallow water. 相似文献
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Parabolic Approximation of the Weakly Nonlinear Mild Slope Equation with Bottom Friction 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
This paper presents a refined parabolic approximation model of the mild slope equation to simu-late the combination of water wave refraction and diffraction in the large coastal region.The bottom frictionand weakly nonlinear term are included in the model.The difference equation is established with the Crank-Nicolson scheme.The numerical test shows that some numerical prediction results will be inaccurate in com-plicated topography without considering weak nonlinearity;the bottom friction will make wave height damp-ing and it can not be neglected for calculation of wave field in large areas. 相似文献
9.
岛屿岛礁海域海浪能谱模型研究进展 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
波浪能谱模型在岛屿岛礁海域的波浪预报研究和海洋工程中应用广泛,但存在模式计算格点无法充分体现岛屿岛礁的复杂地形特征和很难刻画波浪受到岛屿岛礁影响发生变形物理过程等两个关键问题。多重网格嵌套方案、岛屿次网格地形效应计算方案以及非结构网格、无网格、动态自适应四叉树网格等技术在体现岛屿岛礁复杂地形方面取得了较好的效果;将相位解析模型与波浪能谱模型优势互补是提高能谱模型对岛屿近岸波浪变形物理过程计算能力的一个有效方法。开展球坐标系下波作用密度谱方程的自适应四叉树网格求解方法研究,借鉴相位解析模型最新成果完善能谱模式的绕射、反射、底摩擦等物理过程,是提高岛屿岛礁海域海浪精细预报技术水平的前沿性、探索性研究方向。 相似文献
10.
A coupled wave–tide–surge model has been developed in this study in order to investigate the effect of the interactions among tides, storm surges, and wind waves. The coupled model is based on the synchronous dynamic coupling of a third-generation wave model, WAM cycle 4, and the two-dimensional tide–surge model. The surface stress, which is generated by interactions between wind and wave, is calculated by using the WAM model directly based on an analytical approximation of the results using the quasi-linear theory of wave generation. The changes in bottom friction are created by the interactions between waves and currents and calculated by using simplified bottom boundary layer model. In consequence, the combined wave–current-induced bottom velocity and effective bottom drag coefficient were increased in the shallow waters during the strong storm conditions. 相似文献
11.
Wave-Current Propagation over a Frictional Topography 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
ZUO Qihua DING Bingcan Prof. Senior Engineer River Harbour Department Nanjing Hydraulic Research Institute 《中国海洋工程》1998,(4)
—In this paper the parabolic approximation model based on mild-slope equation is used tostudy wave propagation over a slowly varying and frictional topography under wave-current interaction.A governing equation considering the friction effects is derived by the authors for the first time.A simpli-fied form for the rate of wave energy dissipation is presented on the basis of the wave-current action conser-vation equation and the bottom friction model given by Yoo and O＇connor(1987).Examples reveal thatthe present computational method can be used for the calculation of wave elements for actual engineeringprojects with large water areas. 相似文献
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In this paper a refraction-diffraction model with friction is used to compute wave characteristics in a region near a certain port. Comparing with the results from refraction model, and with the data observed during a typhoon in 1985, it is found that the characteristics from the refraction-diffraction model with friction are reasonable, and that the results are in rather good agreement with observations. Thus it can be concluded that the model is effective for computing coastal wave characteristics over complicated bottom topography. 相似文献
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A coupled wave–tide–surge model has been established in this study in order to investigate the effect of tides, storm surges, and wind waves interactions during a winter monsoon on November 1983 in the Yellow Sea. The coupled model is based on the synchronous dynamic coupling of a third-generation wave model, WAM-Cycle 4, and the two-dimensional tide–surge model. The surface stress generated by interactions between wind and waves is calculated using the WAM-Cycle 4 directly based on an analytical approximation of the results obtained from the quasi-linear theory of wave generation. The changes of bottom friction factor generated by waves and current interactions are calculated by using simplified bottom boundary layer model. The model simulations showed that bottom velocity and effective bottom drag coefficient induced by combination of wave and current were increased in shallow waters of up to 50 m in the Yellow Sea during the wintertime strong storm conditions. 相似文献
14.
基于Godfrey绕岛理论,在正压、线性模型下同时考虑了底摩擦和侧摩擦,得到带有摩擦的绕岛理论。根据两个岛屿的经向长度不同,将其分为3种情况;通过积分动量方程,分别得到了各自的带有摩擦的岛屿流函数解析解,从而得到两岛屿间流量公式。当忽略侧摩擦或底摩擦中的一个时,可得Wajsowicz的带有摩擦的绕岛理论。利用CCMP的风场数据,计算了印尼贯穿流的流量,通过比较发现,当只考虑侧摩擦时,流量会增加;当只考虑底摩擦时,流量会减少;当同时考虑底摩擦和侧摩擦时,流量会减少,减少的幅度较只考虑底摩擦时更大。与不考虑摩擦时相比,同时考虑摩擦和侧摩擦时的流量减少量不超过25%。 相似文献
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The role of bottom friction in the runup of nonbreaking long waves on the shore is analyzed. The case of the normal incidence of monochromatic waves is considered. The relief of the model region consists of an even horizontal bottom area conjugated with a flat slope. The energy dissipation is estimated as the work of bottom friction forces over the wave field obtained using the known analytical solution based on the Carrier-Greenspan transforms. Estimates of energy losses for waves whose periods are typical for tsunami waves have been obtained. The energy dissipation is shown to be not concentrated in the shore line area as a rule. The question about the practicability of using partially reflecting boundary conditions on the coast to take into account the bottom friction in large-scale models of tsunami propagation is considered. 相似文献
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In the present paper, by introducing the effective wave elevation, we transform the extended ellip- tic mild-slope equation with bottom friction, wave breaking and steep or rapidly varying bottom topography to the simplest time-dependent hyperbolic equation. Based on this equation and the empirical nonlinear amplitude dispersion relation proposed by Li et al. (2003), the numerical scheme is established. Error analysis by Taylor expansion method shows that the numerical stability of the present model succeeds the merits in Song et al. (2007)’s model because of the introduced dissipation terms. For the purpose of verifying its performance on wave nonlinearity, rapidly vary- ing topography and wave breaking, the present model is applied to study: (1) wave refraction and diffraction over a submerged elliptic shoal on a slope (Berkhoff et al., 1982); (2) Bragg reflection of monochromatic waves from the sinusoidal ripples (Davies and Heathershaw, 1985); (3) wave transformation near a shore attached breakwater (Watanabe and Maruyama, 1986). Comparisons of the numerical solutions with the experimental or theoretical ones or with those of other models (REF/DIF model and FUNWAVE model) show good results, which indicate that the present model is capable of giving favorably predictions of wave refraction, diffraction, reflection, shoaling, bottom friction, breaking energy dissipation and weak nonlinearity in the near shore zone. 相似文献
17.
I. O. Leont’ev 《Oceanology》2011,51(2):353-358
A method applicable for the estimation of the wave parameters along a set bottom profile is suggested. It takes into account
the principal processes having an influence on the waves in the coastal zone: the transformation, refraction, bottom friction,
and breaking. The ability to use a constant mean value of the friction coefficient under conditions of sandy shores is implied.
The wave breaking is interpreted from the viewpoint of the concept of the limiting wave height at a given depth. The mean
and root-mean-square wave heights are determined by the height distribution function, which transforms under the effect of
the breaking. The verification of the method on the basis of the natural data shows that the calculation results reproduce
the observed variations of the wave heights in a wide range of conditions, including profiles with underwater bars. The deviations
from the calculated values mostly do not exceed 25%, and the mean square error is 11%. The method does not require a preliminary
setting and can be implemented in the form of a relatively simple calculator accessible even for an inexperienced user. 相似文献
18.
A wave transformation model (RIDE) was enhanced to include the process of wave breaking energy dissipation in addition to water wave refraction, diffraction, reflection, shoaling, bottom friction, and harbor resonance. The Gaussian Elimination with partial Pivoting (GEP) method for a banded matrix equation and a newly developed bookkeeping procedure were used to solve the elliptic equation. Because the bookkeeping procedure changes the large computer memory requirements into a large hard-disk-size requirement with a minimum number of disk I/O, the simple and robust GEP method can be used in personal computers to handle realistic applications. The computing time is roughly proportional to N1.7, where N is the number of grid points in the computing domain. Because the GEP method is capable of solving many wave conditions together (limited by having the same wave period, no bottom friction and no breaking), this model is very efficient compared to iteration methods when simulating some of the wave transformation process. 相似文献
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以不规则波在缓变地形和缓变流场水域的折射-绕射理论以及风浪的成长、衰减理论为基础,得到近岸区不规则波成长模型。结合近岸波浪特性和海洋工程应用的实际情况,建立综合考虑海岸、折射、白浪、底摩擦、流、风和非线性作用诸因素的近岸不规则波数值计算模型。该模型具有二维波谱特性及实用性。文章力图使模式更合理地反映近岸波浪的传播、成长和衰减规律,而整个计算工作量则较小,可在微型电子计算机上得以实现。 相似文献
20.
绕岛理论来自于Sverdrup理论，被广泛用于估计和分析通过岛屿之间海峡的输运情况。以往的研究得到了带有侧摩擦或底摩擦的单岛理论或多岛理论。本文在线性情况下考虑了风驱动环流下的解析模型。在同时考虑侧摩擦和底摩擦的情况下，推导出了岛屿周围输运流函数的解析解，并给出了通过岛屿之间通道的流量输运。其结果与Wajsowicz相似，但摩擦常数表示不同的值。从解析解上看，摩擦常数与侧摩擦和底摩擦之间的关系比较复杂，为了推导出它们之间的相互作用原理，本文在正压β平面上随机选取了一些侧摩擦和底摩擦的值。结果表明，在构成摩擦常数方面，侧摩擦和底摩擦近似呈线性关系。我们研究了宽度对通道输运值的影响，结果表明摩擦在一定宽度内提高了流量，这种现象和只考虑侧摩擦时比较相似。本文也比较了在不同深度下的流量，发现当水平涡粘性系数和底部拖曳系数固定时，水深越大，输运减少率越小。为了进一步揭示侧摩擦和底摩擦耗散的联合作用，在两个岛屿的情况下，本文在不同宽度的通道中与Wajsowicz的只考虑底摩擦或侧摩擦的模型进行了比较。结果表明，当通道比较窄，尤其是在小于Munk边界层厚度时，侧摩擦的作用大于底摩擦。当通道宽度远大于Munk边界层厚度时，底摩擦的作用大于侧摩擦。将模型应用到印尼贯穿流，得到大约20%的输运减少量。 相似文献