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1.
Abstract With the object of providing an accurate set of open‐sea wave spectra in a variety of conditions, we deployed, in conjunction with CASP, an array of 9 wave buoys (3 directional, 6 non‐directional) along a 30‐km line offshore from Martinique Beach, N.S. A large set of high‐quality wave spectra was collected in conjunction with extensive meteorological information. The data set is unique in the sense that a large onshore swell component was normally present. Offshore‐wind cases for three windows: ±5°, ±15° and ±30° with respect to the shore normal, have been considered. Wind speed was found to be a strong function of fetch, and attempts were made to allow for this in the analysis. Power‐law regressions have been produced of dimensionless sea energy, peak frequency and high‐frequency spectral level (the Kitaigorodskii “alpha” parameter) vs dimensionless fetch and wind speed (inverse wave age). The regressions are compared with earlier work: the Joint North Sea Waves Project (Jonswap) and the Canada Centre for Inland Waters (CCIW) Lake Ontario study. The comparisons indicate that dimensionless wave energies, peak frequencies and alpha values in this experiment are comparable with those from earlier experiments; in spite of different wind analysis methods, the CASP and CCIW fetch‐limited growth laws are consistent within the contexts of the two experiments. Differences among the estimated parameters are as large within the analyses of the three windows as they are among the three experiments we compare. 相似文献
2.
G. S. Golitsyn 《Russian Meteorology and Hydrology》2018,43(3):135-142
In the first half of the 1930s A.N. Kolmogorov was developing analytical methods for the probability theory and presented the solution of the Fokker–Planck type equation. This solution contains scales for the distribution function moments of the mean squares for velocities and relative displacements of the analyzed objects and for the mixed moments of velocities and coordinates. The exclusion of time from these moments leads to the 2/3 law for the velocity structure function and to the Richardson–Obukhov law for the eddy diffusion. The analysis of the fetch laws for wind waves demonstrates that the Kolmogorov laws are manifested in the growth of wave amplitudes and in the form of elevation spectra. These laws also work in the statistics of the planetary surface relief, in the size distribution of the lithospheric plates, in the energy spectra of cosmic rays, and in other processes. In the equation deduced in 1934, probability distribution functions are derived only under the condition of homogeneity of these functions and thereby allow describing a broad range of phenomena and processes. 相似文献
3.
An experimental scheme was designed to obtain laboratory-scale verification of Hasselmann's nonlinear wave—wave interaction and white-cap dissipation theories. Water wave height and fluctuating air pressure were measured simultaneously in a fixed reference frame as a function of fetch in the Stanford Wind, Water-Wave Research Facility under the conditions of a steady wind and a stationary wave spectrum. All the data were obtained 5 mm above the highest point of the wind waves for five stations (3 m apart on average) and at three wind speeds (7.1, 8.0 and 8.9 m/sec). The wave height and fluctuating pressure were measured by a capacitance wave-height gauge and a crystal pressure transducer, respectively.Based on the experimental results, Hasselmann's nonlinear wave—wave interaction theory appears to be valid. Barnett's approximate parametric equation for calculating the energy transfer of nonlinear wave—wave interaction and Hasselmann's white-capping dissipation model were also verified and appeared to be applicable in the relatively low and intermediate frequency region of a wave spectrum for a normalized fetch range of 100–500. Based on the results of an overall energy balance in a gravity wind-wave spectrum, the nonlinear wave—wave interaction mechanism is shown to play a dominant role in the energy transfer processes after the wave spectrum is generated. 相似文献
4.
Abstract A new approach to fetch‐limited wave studies is taken in this paper. Using data from five towers arranged along a line from the eastern shore of Lake St Clair, the differential growth between towers is explored as a function of local wave age. It is argued that this method avoids the usual fetch‐limited pitfall of inhomogeneity over long fetches and, in particular, the changes in wind speed downfetch of an abrupt roughness change. It is found that the growth rate decreases uniformly downfetch as the waves approach full development. This differential method leads to a smooth transition from rapidly growing short fetch waves to the asymptotic invariant state of full development. When the variation in wind speed after an abrupt (land to water) roughness change is taken into account, the idea of a universal fetch‐limited growth curve is called into question. 相似文献
5.
The effects of sea-surface waves and ocean spray on the marine atmospheric boundary layer(MABL) at different wind speeds and wave ages were investigated. An MABL model was developed that introduces a wave-induced component and spray force to the total surface stress. The theoretical model solution was determined assuming the eddy viscosity coefficient varied linearly with height above the sea surface. The wave-induced component was evaluated using a directional wave spectrum and growth rate. Spray force was described using interactions between ocean-spray droplets and wind-velocity shear. Wind profiles and sea-surface drag coefficients were calculated for low to high wind speeds for wind-generated sea at different wave ages to examine surface-wave and ocean-spray effects on MABL momentum distribution. The theoretical solutions were compared with model solutions neglecting wave-induced stress and/or spray stress. Surface waves strongly affected near-surface wind profiles and sea-surface drag coefficients at low to moderate wind speeds. Drag coefficients and near-surface wind speeds were lower for young than for old waves. At high wind speeds, ocean-spray droplets produced by wind-tearing breaking-wave crests affected the MABL strongly in comparison with surface waves, implying that wave age affects the MABL only negligibly. Low drag coefficients at high wind caused by ocean-spray production increased turbulent stress in the sea-spray generation layer, accelerating near-sea-surface wind. Comparing the analytical drag coefficient values with laboratory measurements and field observations indicated that surface waves and ocean spray significantly affect the MABL at different wind speeds and wave ages. 相似文献
6.
Fetch Limited Drag Coefficients 总被引：5，自引：1，他引：5
Measurements made at a tower located 2 km off the coast of Denmark inshallow water during the Risø Air Sea Experiment (RASEX) are analyzedto investigate the behaviour of the drag coefficient in the coastal zone.For a given wind speed, the drag coefficient is larger during conditions ofshort fetch (2-5 km) off-shore flow with younger growing waves than it isfor longer fetch (15-25 km) on-shore flow. For the strongest on-shorewinds, wave breaking enhances the drag coefficient. Variation of the neutral drag coefficient in RASEX is dominated byvariation of wave age, frequency bandwidth of the wave spectra and windspeed. The frequency bandwidth is proportional to the broadness of the waveheight spectra and is largest during conditions of light wind speeds. Usingthe RASEX data, simple models of the drag coefficient and roughness length are developed in terms of wind speed, wave age and bandwidth. An off-shoreflow model of the drag coefficient in terms of nondimensional fetch isdeveloped for situations when the wave state is not known. 相似文献
7.
One-dimensional theory of the wave boundary layer 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
Results obtained in a 2-D modeling of the statistical structure of the wave boundary layer (WBL) are used for elaboration of the general approach to 1-D modeling taking into account the spectral properties of wave drag for an arbitrary wave field. In the case of the wave field described by the JONSWAP spectrum, the momentum and energy spectral density exchange, vertical profiles of the wave-induced momentum flux and dependence of total roughness parameter and drag coefficient on peak frequency are given. The reasons that the total roughness parameter increases with decreasing fetch are explained. The role of wind waves as an active element of the ocean-atmosphere dynamic system is also discussed. 相似文献
8.
Observations of the energy-containing oceanic Eddies,and theoretical models of waves and turbulence 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
Peter Rhines 《Boundary-Layer Meteorology》1973,4(1-4):345-360
Two of the best available observed frequency spectra of energy-containing oceanic motions are summarized. Without provoking any simple explanation, they affirm that an efficient, homogeneous cascade of energy to small scales isnot occurring. The way is left open for interpretation as a mixture of geostrophic turbulence and waves.Detailed models are given which yield plausible behavior of various parts of the wave-number and frequency spectra, and illustrate the workings of nonlinearity and wave dispersion: (i) simple dispersion of linear, wind-generated internal waves gives at depths an inertial peak and a steeply sloping high-frequency spectrum (the inertial peak at the very top of the ocean is a direct response of the mixed layer to the wind); (ii) at longer periods,two-dimensional turbulence subjected to the beta effect produces well-ordered motions from a chaotic initial state, with dominant length and time-scale independent of initial conditions. The turbulence evolves quickly and naturally into Rossby waves, leaving a peaky, quasi-stationary spectrum; (iii) inone dimension, the Korteweg de Vries equation again shows how waves may sharpen and fix the wave-number spectrum while dispersing the energy in physical space; (iv) possible application of the ideas tothree-dimensional turbulence and waves is discussed.The most general result is that the scale-dependent boundary, at which the wave steepness is about unity, often divides energy-frequency/wave-number space into regions in which the mobility of energy is vastly different; depending on the direction and speed of nonlinear migration within these regions, energy may pile up at this boundary. Thus, wave-restoring forces can concentrate spectra at certain wave numbers while dispersing the fields in physical space.Now at Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution. 相似文献
9.
The mechanism of flattening of surface wind waves in the centimetre wavelength range under the action of internal waves and in the presence of surfactants is considered. It is shown that internal waves give rise to perturbations of surfactant concentration proportional to the orbital velocities of wave particles. Accordingly, the damping coefficient of centimetre wavelength ripples is also modulated. Evolution of the wind wave spectrum is described by the energy balance equation. In the right-hand side of the equation the Phillips excitation mechanism, the Miles mechanism with a nonlinear spectrum limitation, and the dissipation caused by a surface-active film are taken into account. Assuming that the energy source and sink balance of the wind wave spectrum over the centimetre wavelength range is local, relative spectra (contrasts) for the case of gentle breeze are calculated. It is shown that the spectral components of ripples in the slicks can be order less than the uperturbed spectrum values. 相似文献
10.
该文介绍了地面雨滴谱观测方法的研究, 通过增大取样面积、增加辅助观测手段, 改进了传统的滤纸取样法, 设计出图像自动识别软件应用到雨滴谱资料的处理中, 这种方法不仅可以增加观测的样本数, 以获得稳定的雨滴谱资料, 而且有利于资料的相互配合与分析。对其图像的位置变化、形状改变、滴谱重叠等情况进行验证以及对计算结果进行误差分析, 雨滴谱资料中的单个滴谱图像位置变化和形状变化对图像识别后的结果没有影响, 自动图像处理程序运行结果稳定可靠。程序在处理不粘连的滴谱资料时敏感性较好, 对于大滴溅散而形成的很多溅散滴时, 会处理成很多单独的小雨滴, 同时也说明无法解决溅散问题。在雨滴重叠问题上该程序智能程度不高, 不能真正鉴别是否存在重叠现象, 无法将重叠的雨滴分离开来, 往往会将重叠在一起的雨滴视为一个滴, 从而带来观测雨滴数量减少的现象。从雨滴谱资料处理误差分析上看, 斑迹直径在3~18 mm时相对误差小于6%, 对于直径小于4 mm雨滴误差完全控制在6%以内, 且在处理小滴时误差更小。该方法在地面雨滴谱观测及资料处理中准确度高、性能稳定、实用性强, 为雨滴谱资料的处理分析提供了一个新的思路, 可以应用到实际工作中。 相似文献
11.
Abstract Measurements of ocean directional wave spectra, significant wave height, and wind speed over the Grand Banks of Newfoundland were made using the combined capabilities of the radar ocean wave spectrometer (ROWS) and scanning radar altimeter (SRA). The instruments were flown aboard the NASA P‐3A aircraft in support of the Grand Banks ERS‐1 Synthetic Aperture Radar (SAR) Wave Experiment. The NASA sensors use proven techniques, which differ greatly from SAR, for estimating the directional long‐wave spectrum; thus they provide a unique set of measurements for use in evaluating SAR performance. ROWS and SRA data are combined with spectra from the SAR aboard the Canadian Centre for Remote Sensing (CCRS) CV‐580 aircraft, the first‐generation Canadian Spectral Ocean Wave Model (CSOWM) hindcast, and other available in situ measurements to assess the ERS‐1 SAR's ability to correctly resolve wave field components along a 200‐ to 300‐km flight line for four separate satellite passes. Given the complex seas present on the Grand Banks, the complementary nature of viewing the sea spectrum from the perspectives of multiple sensors and a wave prediction model is apparent. The data intercomparisons show the ERS‐1 SAR to be meeting the expected goals for measuring swell, but the data also show evidence of this remote sensor's inability to detect the shorter waves travelling in the azimuth or along‐track direction. Example SAR spectra simulations are made using a non‐linear forward transform with ROWS measurements as input. Additionally, surface wind and wave height estimates made using the ROWS altimeter channel are presented. These data demonstrate the utility of operating the system in its new combined altimeter and spectrometer configuration. 相似文献
12.
Through numerical integration, we show that equatorial Rossby waves, like their midlatitude counterparts, decay algebraically in the limit t → ∞ in a linear shear flow. For small times, the growth expected for some components does not translate into any growth of the wave disturbance as a whole when the initial conditions has a broad Fourier spectrum. The conclusion is that Rossby waves will amplify with time only when the mean flow has an inflection point or when the initial eddy field is strongly concentrated in long waves tilted against the shear. 相似文献
13.
Nesting Turbulence in an Offshore Convective Boundary Layer Using Large-Eddy Simulations 总被引：1，自引：1，他引：0
Domingo Muñoz-Esparza Branko Kosović Clara García-Sánchez Jeroen van Beeck 《Boundary-Layer Meteorology》2014,151(3):453-478
The applicability of the one-way nesting technique for numerical simulations of the heterogeneous atmospheric boundary layer using the large-eddy simulation (LES) framework of the Weather Research and Forecasting model is investigated. The focus of this study is on LES of offshore convective boundary layers. Simulations were carried out using two subgrid-scale models (linear and non-linear) with two different closures [diagnostic and prognostic subgrid-scale turbulent kinetic energy (TKE) equations]. We found that the non-linear backscatter and anisotropy model with a prognostic subgrid-scale TKE equation is capable of providing similar results when performing one-way nested LES to a stand-alone domain having the same grid resolution but using periodic lateral boundary conditions. A good agreement is obtained in terms of velocity shear and turbulent fluxes, while velocity variances are overestimated. A streamwise fetch of 14 km is needed following each domain transition in order for the solution to reach quasi-stationary results and for the velocity spectra to generate proper energy content at high wavelengths, however, a pile-up of energy is observed at the low-wavelength portion of the spectrum on the first nested domain. The inclusion of a second nest with higher resolution allows the solution to reach effective grid spacing well within the Kolmogorov inertial subrange of turbulence and develop an appropriate energy cascade that eliminates most of the pile-up of energy at low wavelengths. Consequently, the overestimation of velocity variances is substantially reduced and a considerably better agreement with respect to the stand-alone domain results is achieved. 相似文献
14.
Heat waves are occurring more frequently across the globe and are likely to increase in intensity and duration under climate change. Much work has already been completed on attributing causes of observed heat waves and on modeling their future occurrence, but such efforts are often lacking in exploration of spatial relationships. Based on principles of landscape ecology, we utilized fragmentation metrics to examine the spatiotemporal changes in heat wave shape and occurrence across North America. This methodological approach enables us to examine area, shape, perimeter, and other key metrics. The application of these shape metrics to high-resolution historical (1950–2013) climate data reveals that the total number and spatial extent of heat waves are increasing over the continent, but at an individual heat wave patch level, they are becoming significantly smaller in extent and more complex in shape, indicating that heat waves have become a more widespread and fragmented phenomena. 相似文献
15.
观测和分档方案的数值模拟都证明气溶胶的谱分布特征对云滴谱的演变有直接影响继而作用于降水的发展。目前广泛使用的总体双参数云滴谱方案因为表征云滴谱的预报量不足,在凝结过程中云滴谱呈不正常的拓宽现象。因此在参数化方案中,气溶胶谱对云滴谱的影响未有明确结论。中科学院大气物理研究所(IAP)云降水物理与强风暴重点实验室(LACS)新研发的三参数方案(IAP-LACS)通过增加的预报量克服了云滴谱的拓宽问题,提高了云滴谱模拟的准确性。为了研究在参数化方案中气溶胶谱分布特征对云滴谱的影响,本文采用新方案进行WRF(Weather Research and Forecasting mode)大涡理想性试验,验证了新方案中气溶胶对数正态谱函数中数浓度、几何半径和标准差3个参量对云滴谱演变的影响。针对3个参量的敏感性试验表明新的气溶胶活化方案和三参数云滴凝结增长方案能够描述气溶胶谱对云滴谱演变的影响规律:气溶胶数浓度对云滴谱影响最显著,数浓度越高活化生成的云滴数量越多,云滴半径越小,云滴谱趋向窄谱,气溶胶数浓度低时,云滴数量少、半径大。较大的几何半径使气溶胶谱向大粒径移动,导致大云滴生成,标准差对云滴谱的影响最不显著。 相似文献
16.
斜压切变基流中横波型扰动的特征波动──Ⅰ:谱点分析 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
文中对谱点的分布作了定性分析和数值计算。结果发现：当基流存在切变时,无论是重力惯性波还是涡旋波都存在连续谱。在通常的环境下,对天气尺度的扰动,3支波动的连续谱不重叠,3支波动明显可分;当扰动尺度小于临界波长l0时,可出现涡旋波和一支重力惯性波的两波连续谱区的重叠,当扰动尺度小于l0／2时,可出现涡旋波和一对重力惯性波的三波连续谱区的重叠,此时两种波动不可分。当出现重叠谱时,若出现不稳定扰动,其频率的实部落在重叠谱区。 相似文献
17.
The impact of air-flow separation from breaking dominant waves is analyzed.This impact results from the correlation of the pressure drop with theforward slope of breaking waves. The pressure drop is parameterized via thesquare of the reference mean velocity. The slope of breaking waves isrelated to the statistical properties of the wave breaking fronts describedin terms of the average total length of breaking fronts. Assuming that thedominant waves are narrow and that the length of breaking fronts is relatedto the length of the contour of the breaking zone it is shown that theseparation stress supported by dominant waves is proportional to thebreaking probability of dominant waves. The breaking probability of dominantwaves, in turn, is defined by the dominant wave steepness. With thedominant wave steepness increasing, the breaking probability is increasedand so does the separation stress. This mechanism explains wave age (youngerwaves being steeper) and finite depth (the spectrum is steeper in shallowwater) dependence of the sea drag. It is shown that dominant waves support asignificant fraction of total stress (sea drag) for young seas due to theair-flow separation that occurs when they break. A good comparison of themodel results for the sea drag with several data sets is reported. 相似文献
18.
We describe observations of the generation and propagation of coastally trapped waves in the laboratory and their comparison with theory, over a range of values of several experimental parameters. The topography and stratification used consisted of a sloping continental shelf and vertical continental slope with three-layer stratification that could be approximated by an extended version of the Gill and Clarke model [Gill, A.E., Clarke, A., 1974. Wind-induced upwelling, coastal currents and sea level changes. Deep Sea Res. 21, 325–345]. The latter was modified to accommodate a central mixed layer, curved geometry, and friction on the shelf. This configuration represents coastal geometry with large Burger number. The experiments were successful in realizing coastally trapped waves that were consistent with the theoretical expectations. However, the waves propagated more slowly, and for narrow shelves were damped more rapidly than predicted by the theory. The first was attributed to: (i) the effect of stratification on fluid on the shelf, reducing the topographic Rossby wave effect; (ii) the parameterization of the viscosity. The second difference was attributed to the mechanism of generation: the paddle used did not always generate sinusoidal waves, and the subsequent dispersion resulted in a net loss of amplitude. 相似文献
19.
Previously validated model results were used to characterize the wave climate over the Southern Brazilian Shelf (SBS). The low mean significant wave height over the western South Atlantic shelves was shown together with examples of cyclone-induced extreme wave fields and other typical wave conditions. The mean offshore spectra showed a bimodal shape with a predominance of S/SSW and ENE/E waves with distinctive interannual rising periods in wave energy density. Along-shelf wave energy gradients were seen near the coast with higher energy located off capes and coastal projections and energy minima between them. A considerable drop in wave energy suggests the 40 m depth as the mean wave base and consequently the lower limit of the SBS shoreface. The upper shoreface mean wave energy density varied abruptly along the shelf in response to differences in bottom declivities. The large and shallow shoreface was responsible for an intense refraction of the waves and hence very small angles of attack. Additionally, it was shown the sheltering effect caused by capes and coastal projections and a remarkable north/south energy asymmetry between them, caused by a windowing on the wave propagation to the shore. Altogether, it was possible to state that bottom friction plays a major role in wave differentiation along the SBS shoreface, thus suggesting that shelf morphology might indeed be more important to generate wave variability than the offshore wave variation itself. 相似文献
20.
A meteorological tower significantly modifies the air flow, the mean windspeed and wind direction as well as the turbulencestructure of the air. Suchchanges can be noticed in particular in the wake region of the tower.Measurementson the 200 m tower ofForschungszentrum Karlsruhewere carried outusing Solent sonic anemometers in the lee of the towerand cup anemometers on both sides.In the wake region, spectral energydensity is increased in the high-frequency range. Superposition of this disturbance spectrum on the undisturbedspectrum yields a `knee' in the resulting spectrum. In the case of low turbulence intensity with stable stratification,a plateau with a constant energy content is observed in front of the knee.This effect is caused by the new production of turbulence energy from the mean flow as well as by an energy transfer fromlarger to smaller vortices. Power spectra in strongly stable conditionsshow a more rapid decrease of intensity in the region where the inertialsubrange is expected.The relevant scales of wake turbulence are derived from the maximum of the disturbance spectrum.Locations of the high-frequency peak do not depend on atmospheric stability,but are controlled mainly by mean wind speed.Apart from the reduction of the mean wind speed, the spectra and cospectra exhibit a strong anisotropy for such cases.The results demonstrate the significant influence of a tower on turbulence spectra in the wake region. 相似文献