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1.
Clastic sedimentary features of beachrocks and unconsolidated deposits of parent beaches were investigated along the northern Aegean coastline(Greece) to assess their suitability in palaeo-environmental reconstruction.Twelve paired datasets were collected in the Thermaikos,Toroneos,Siggitikos and lerissos gulfs of the Chalkidiki Peninsula,the adjoining Kavala Gulf and Thassos Island,comprising beachrock cores and companion beach subsurface sediments.Particle size analyses based on univariate and bivariate statistics suggest that,during the time period of beachrock formation,depositional conditions differed distinctly from those of the modern parent beaches.The results imply difference of maturity level of beach evolution from the time of cementation(coarser materials-early stage of beach formation) to modern situation(finer materials-reworked and ’mature’ beach sediments).Furthermore,the findings indicate increasing coastal protection due to beachrock exposure in the modern swash zone.In conclusion,it is suggested that textural analysis of beachrocks in comparison with unconsolidated sediments of the parent beach might provide information regarding differences of coastal depositional regimes and future research could focus on specific-layer analysis and comparison.  相似文献   

2.
Wind characteristics and aeolian transport were measured on a naturally evolving beach and dune and a nearby site where the beach is raked and sand‐trapping fences are deployed. The beaches were composed of moderately well sorted to very well sorted fine to medium sand. The backshore at the raked site was wider and the foredune was more densely vegetated and about 1 m higher than at the unraked site. Wind speeds were monitored using anemometers placed at 1 m elevation and sand transport was monitored using vertical traps during oblique onshore, alongshore and offshore winds occurring in March and April 2009. Inundation of the low backshore through isolated swash channels prevented formation of a continuously decreasing cross‐shore moisture gradient. The surface of the berm crest was dryer than the backshore, making the berm crest the greatest source of offshore losses during offshore winds. The lack of storm wrack on the raked beach reduced the potential for sediment accumulation seaward of the dune crest during onshore winds, and the higher dune crest reduced wind speeds and sediment transport from the dune to the backshore during offshore winds. Accretion at wrack seaward of the dune toe on the unraked beach resulted in a wider dune field and higher, narrower backshore. Although fresh wrack is an effective local trap for aeolian transport, wrack that becomes buried appears to have little effect as a barrier and can supply dry sand for subsequent transport. Aeolian transport rates were greater on the narrower but dryer backshore of the unraked site. Vegetation growth may be necessary to trap sand within zones of buried wrack in order to allow new incipient foredunes to evolve. Copyright © 2010 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

3.
The current study proposes a novel framework for the numerical model for estimating the temporal scour considering unsteady sediment inflow and the sediment sorting process. The framework was applied to local scour upstream of a slit weir. The scour model is based on an ordinary nonlinear differential equation derived from sediment continuity and scour rate equations. A one-dimensional(1-D)Boussinesq-type model coupled with nonequilibrium sediment transport was incorporated in the scour model to...  相似文献   

4.
Analysis and interpretation of monitoring data for the seabed bathymetry local to offshore windfarm foundations has shown how the scour develops in time and highlighted variations between sites with different seabed sediment characteristics, i.e. sands and clays. Results from European offshore windfarms have generated a unique dataset for comparison with previously published data. Where surficial sediment is underlain by a marine clay the scour (to date) has been limited, whilst those with unconstrained depths of sandy sediments show scour as deep as 1.38 times the monopile diameter. Scour protection has been installed at some sites for structural stability of the foundation or for cable protection. The flow interaction with the protection causes edge scour or secondary scour in the seabed around the protection. In some cases this scour is deeper than the unprotected case. The analysis has resulted in an improved evidence base for scour in the marine environment.  相似文献   

5.
The relation between morphological change and patterns of variation in bedload transport rate in braided streams was observed by repeated, daily topographic surveys over a 25 day study period in a 60 m reach of the proglacial Sunwapta River, Alberta, Canada. There are two major periods of morphological change, each lasting several days and each involving the complete destruction and reconstruction of bar complexes. Bar complex destruction was caused by redirection of the flow and by downstream extension of the confluence scour zone upstream. Reconstruction involved accretion of unit bars on bar head, flank and tail and in one case was initiated by disection of a large, lobate unit bar. High rates of sediment movement, measured from net scour and fill of the cross-sections, coincided with these morphological changes. Sediment was supplied from both bed and bank erosion, and patterns and distances of transfer were highly variable. Rates of transport estimated by matching upstream erosional volumes with downstream deposition were much greater than those estimated from either a step-length approach or a sediment budget. Measurements of scour and fill and observations of morphological change indicate that step lengths (virtual transport distances) were typically 40–100m during a diurnal discharge cycle. Shorter step lengths occurred when transfer was confined to a single anabranch and longer steps involved channel changes at the scale of the entire reach. Sediment budgeting was used to describe the spatial patterns of sediment transport associated with the morphological changes and to estimate minimum daily reach-averaged transport rates. Mean bedload transport rates correlate with discharge, but with considerable scatter. The largest deviations from the mean relation can be tied to phases of channel incision, bank erosion, scour hole migration, bar deposition and channel filling apparently controlled by changes and fluctuations in sediment supply from upstream, independent of discharge. These are interpreted as field evidence of ‘autopulses’ or ‘macropulses’ in bedload transport, previously observed only in laboratory models of braided streams.  相似文献   

6.
7.
An experimental and theoretical identification of hydrodynamic equilibrium for sediment transport and bed response to wave motion are considered. The comparison between calculations and the results of laboratory experiments indicates the linear relation between sediment transport rate and the thickness zm of bed layer in which sediments are in apparent rectilinear motion. This linear relationship allows to use the first order “upwind” numerical scheme of FDM ensuring an accurate solution of equation for changes in bed morphology. However, it is necessary to carry out a decomposition of the sediment transport into transport in onshore direction during wave crest and offshore direction during wave trough. Further, the shape of bed erosion in response to sediment transport coincides with the trapezoid envelope or with part of it, when some sediments still remain within it. Bed erosion area is equal to the one of a rectangle with thickness znm.  相似文献   

8.
The distribution of grain size parameters along 11 km stretch of the beach sediments between Karikal and Nagore,reveals that the mean grain size exhibits a marked decreasing trend on either side of the mouth of the Tirumalairajanar River which flow from west to east.The sediments are mainly of medium to coarse grained,moderately sorted,near-symmetrical skewed to fine skewed and leptokurtic to mesokurtic in nature.Interrelationship of various parameters shows bimodal nature of sediments having dominance of medium to coarse sand.The major part of the sediment fall in a coarse to fine grained category(sand and silt).Based on the CM(Coarser one percentile value in micron) pattern,the sediment fall in rolling and suspension field.These factors includes the sediments discharged from the river mixes with offshore sediments and with the sediments eroded from a source rock.The effect of wave sorting, and the northward drifting of sediments by littoral current are understandable.Results indicate that the Tirumalairajanar River is the most important source for modern sediments in the study area.The agitation by waves is an important sorting mechanism in the study area,and the net sediment transport in the study area is northward.The findings are based on the grain sizes and also corroborated by shortterm observations of the beach sediment dynamics and transport during the monsoon and summer seasons between Karaikal and Nagore region.  相似文献   

9.
Recent work at three contrasting sites in England and Wales has shown characteristics atypical of those frequently reported elsewhere. These differences are:
  • (a) Taking each entire beach system there is no uniform trend of erosion or accretion, nor a progressive variation in beach elevation or volume alongshore, from one survey to the next. However, for Swansea Bay the ‘long-term’ (i. e. 18 months) range in profile height along that stretch of coast where the alignment of the beach is normal to the direction of wave approach, correlates well with computed wave energy derived from relevant offshore wave directions.
  • (b) While beach variability is greatest during the ‘winter’ (i. e. storm) period there is no overall tendency for a drawdown of sediment from the intertidal zone at that time. Response times are relatively short. Thus high beach levels need not necessarily be associated with ‘summer’ conditions.
  • (c) Although in Swansea Bay there is a tendency for the beach height to fluctuate least at mid-tide level this is not true of the other two sites. In no area does sediment eroded from the upper exposed part of the beach regularly appear to be deposited on the lower exposed part, or vice versa.
  相似文献   

10.
Monopile foundations of offshore wind turbines modify the hydrodynamics and sediment transport at local and regional scales. The aim of this work is to assess these modifications and to parameterize them in a regional model. In the present study, this is achieved through a regional circulation model, coupled with a sediment transport module, using two approaches. One approach is to explicitly model the monopiles in the mesh as dry cells, and the other is to parameterize them by adding a drag force term to the momentum and turbulence equations. Idealised cases are run using hydrodynamical conditions and sediment grain sizes typical from the area located off Courseulles-sur-Mer (Normandy, France), where an offshore windfarm is under planning, to assess the capacity of the model to reproduce the effect of the monopile on the environment. Then, the model is applied to a real configuration on an area including the future offshore windfarm of Courseulles-sur-Mer. Four monopiles are represented in the model using both approaches, and modifications of the hydrodynamics and sediment transport are assessed over a tidal cycle. In relation to local hydrodynamic effects, it is observed that currents increase at the side of the monopile and decrease in front of and downstream of the monopile. In relation to sediment transport effect, the results show that resuspension and erosion occur around the monopile in locations where the current speed increases due to the monopile presence, and sediments deposit downstream where the bed shear stress is lower. During the tidal cycle, wakes downstream of the monopile reach the following monopile and modify the velocity magnitude and suspended sediment concentration patterns around the second monopile.  相似文献   

11.
A new analytical method was evaluated for predicting scour profile downstream of a submerged sluice gate with an apron. The differential equations between bed Shear stress and Scour profile Curvature(SSC model) were utilized to predict the scour profile in both temporal and equilibrium stages. A jet momentum flux was considered as an external source of erosion on a hypothetical particle ring as the boundary between the flow and sediment bed. The scour length and sediment resistance factor were t...  相似文献   

12.
This paper extends the conventional concept of radiation stress (Longuet-Higgins and Stewart, 1964) in progressive water waves to standing waves, so that its vertical profile could be defined and calculated in a new technical way. The hydrodynamic numerical model being coupled with the vertically varying radiation stress in standing waves is used to simulate the currents being induced by standing waves in the vertical section. Numerical modeling of suspended sediment transport is then carried out to simulate the evolution of the bed composed of fine sediments by the currents. The scour and deposition patterns simulated are in qualitative agreement with prior laboratory and field observations.  相似文献   

13.
14.
A new field-based parameterisation (‘shape function’) describing the distribution of cross-shore suspended sediment transport across a beach profile is presented. Time-averaged and depth-integrated suspended sediment fluxes were measured over 39 tides at Sennen Cove, Cornwall, UK, for a range of wave conditions (offshore significant wave heights 0.1–2.5 m). The suspended sediment flux data were heuristically separated into four transport components: (1) mean flux in the surf/shoaling zone; (2) oscillatory flux in the surf/shoaling zone; (3) onshore flux in the swash/inner surf zone and (4) offshore flux in the swash/inner surf zone. Each of these transport components was related to the local water depth (h) normalised by the breakpoint depth (hb) and the four resulting suspended transport shape functions were combined to form a total suspended load shape function. Each shape function component is scaled independently by the wave energy level through hb. The total suspended load shape function predicts onshore sediment transport under low-energy conditions, with peaks at the breakpoint and in the swash zone, in agreement with the field observations. Under high-energy conditions the total suspended load shape function predicts onshore transport in the shoaling zone, offshore transport in the surf zone and onshore transport in the inner swash zone.  相似文献   

15.
Topographic changes in two blowouts located in Island Beach State Park, New Jersey, USA were monitored over the winter of 1981-1982. Elevation changes were measured with erosion pins, and sediment traps placed at comparable locations in each blowout monitored the amount of sand moved by the wind. Discrete wind events were identified from regional data, and morphological data for the intervals with the highest onshore and offshore wind speeds are examined in detail. Vegetation is the primary influence on the development of the two blowouts. Blowout A is characterized by eroding sidewalls, a stable base, and an accreting blowout rim. High rates of sediment transport occur through the blowout throat which results in accretion on the vegetated rim. This blowout is an active sediment transfer system. Vegetation causes a large amount of deposition in the throat of blowout B. As vegetation was buried over the winter, the area of deposition migrated inland. Sidewall erosion also occurred in blowout B. Little change was recorded on the blowout rim. Blowout B is a recovering system where sediment is delivered to the blowout floor from the beach by onshore winds and from the blowout rim by offshore winds where it is stabilized by vegetation. The development of foredune blowouts is governed largely by vegetation cover on the dune crest and by sidewall erosion during offshore and onshore winds. Blowout recovery depends on vegetation growth and sediment deposition in the throat, and on the role of the sidewalls as sources of sediment which is deposited elsewhere within the system. Foredune blowouts are dynamic systems in which positive feedbacks in sediment availability and vegetation growth lead to a cycle of development and closure.  相似文献   

16.
Sediment transport and short‐term morphologic change were evaluated at a site where sand fences are deployed and the beach is raked (Managed Site) and a site where these human adjustments are not practiced (Unmanaged Site). Data were gathered across the seaward portion of a low foredune when winds blew nearly shore‐normal at mean speeds 8.9 to 9.3 m s‐1. Data from traps revealed sediment transport rates at unvegetated portions of the foredune crest (40.2 to 43.5 kg m‐1 h‐1) were greater than on the backshore (4.9 to 11.2 kg m‐1 h‐1) due to onshore decreases in surface moisture and speed‐up of the wind passing over the foredune. Data from erosion pins indicate sediment input to the dune was 1.48 m3 m‐1 alongshore at the Managed Site and 1.25 m3 m‐1 at the Unmanaged Site. The Unmanaged Site had deposition at the dune toe, erosion at mid‐slope, and deposition at the crest. Deposition occurred at mid‐slope on the Managed Site near a partially buried (0.58 m high) fence with a porosity of about 65%. Deposition at partially buried wrack on the upper backshore and dune toe at the Unmanaged Site was about twice as great as deposition in this zone at the Managed Site. Results indicate that: (1) the seaward slope of the foredune can be a more important source of sand to the lee of the crest than the beach; (2) wrack near the toe can decrease transport into the foredune; (3) a scour zone can occur on the foredune slope above the wrack line; (4) a fence placed in this location can promote deposition and offset scour, but fences can restrict delivery of sediment farther inland. Evaluation of alternative configurations of fences and strategies for managing wrack is required to better determine the ways that humans modify foredunes. Copyright © 2012 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

17.
Obstacle marks are instream bedforms, typically composed of an upstream frontal scour hole and a downstream sediment accumulation in the vicinity of an obstacle. Local scouring at infrastructure (e.g. bridge piers) is a well-studied phenomenon in hydraulic engineering, while less attention is given to the time-dependent evolution of frontal scour holes at instream boulders and their geometric relations (depth to width, and length ratio). Furthermore, a comparison between laboratory studies and field observations is rare. Therefore, the morphodynamic importance of such scour features to fluvial sediment transport and morphological change is largely unknown. In this study, obstacle marks at boulder-like obstructions were physically modelled in 30 unscaled process-focused flume experiments (runtime per experiment ≥ 5760 min) at a range of flows (subcritical, clear-water conditions, emergent and submerged water levels) and boundary conditions designed to represent the field setting (i.e. obstacle tilting, and limited thickness of the alluvial layer). Additionally, geometries of scour holes at 90 in-situ boulders (diameter ≥ 1 m) located in a 50-km segment of the Colorado River in Marble Canyon (AZ) were measured from a 1 m-resolution digital elevation model. Flume experiments reveal similar evolution of local scouring, irrespective of hydraulic conditions, controlled by the scour incision, whereas the thickness of the alluvial layer and obstacle tilting into the evolving frontal scour hole limit incision. Three temporal evolution phases—(1) rapid incision, (2) decreasing incision, and (3) scour widening—are identified based on statistical analysis of spatiotemporal bed elevation time series. A quantitative model is presented that mechanistically predicts enlargement in local scour length and width based on (1) scour depth, (2) the inclination of scour slopes, and (3) the planform area of the frontal scour hole bottom. The comparison of field observations and laboratory results demonstrates scale invariance of geometry, which implies similitude of processes and form rather than equifinality.  相似文献   

18.
Shorefaces play a critical role in cross‐shore sediment transport between the beach and inner shelf, particularly during storm conditions. A comparison and examination of storm‐driven sedimentary changes on two adjacent shorefaces in Northern Ireland, located only 5 km apart, revealed significantly different geomorphological responses. The steeper shoreface at West Strand responded with extensive sediment deposition across almost the entire shoreface, in contrast with the more dissipative and quasi‐linear shoreface at Portstewart, which mostly showed nearshore bar changes. Results from the two sites, which have similar wave/wind characteristics and seabed sediments, suggest that: (i) cross‐shore morphology, (ii) immediately previous (antecedent) shoreface morphodynamic behaviour and (iii) the presence, or lack of, offshore sand appear to be the primary controls on storm‐driven sedimentary changes attributed to the high‐energy event. Copyright © 2015 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

19.
After experiencing 8-day combined tidal current, circulation and wave actions, scour depth surrounding cylinder object freely resting on sandy seabed in the East China Sea (ECS) in January is numerically predicted using the DRAMBUIE model designed for scour burial, which has been widely used and verified by in-situ experiments. During the period of numerical integration, the value of time t is generally variable at every time step via the special time-stepped approach developed by this paper to eliminate the time error. The tidal current velocity, wave orbital velocity and the depth-averaged circulation in the ECS have been obtained by numerical simulations with Estuarine Coastal and Ocean Model (ECOM), Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN) model and Regional Ocean Modeling System (ROMS) model respectively. The control experiment and several idealized test cases on influential factors in scour depth reveal that the dominant hydrodynamic factor is tidal current in the ECS under normal weather conditions, and the impacts of shelf circulation and wave motion on local scour almost can be ignored with an exception of the Kuroshio area where the high-speed mainstream of Kuroshio flows. It is also indicated that in sandy sediments, the distribution of scour depth nearly follows the pattern of tidal currents, while the secondary influencing factor on scour depth appears to be grain size of sandy sediment in the ECS. Numerical tests on sediment grain size further testify that much finer sand is more easily scoured, and an increasing trend for scour depth with reduction of grain size is displayed due to imposed resistance of larger sized particles. Three aspects explored by this paper, including the empirical equations in the Defense Research Agency Mine Burial Environment (DRAMBUIE) model, the accuracy of inputs and infill process can severely affect the prediction of scour depth surrounding cylinder objects freely resting on sandy seabed in the ECS.  相似文献   

20.
Massachusetts Bay is a semi-enclosed embayment in the western Gulf of Maine about 50 km wide and 100 km long. Bottom sediment resuspension is controlled predominately by storm-induced surface waves and transport by the tidal- and wind-driven circulation. Because the Bay is open to the northeast, winds from the northeast (‘Northeasters’) generate the largest surface waves and are thus the most effective in resuspending sediments. The three-dimensional oceanographic circulation model Regional Ocean Modeling System (ROMS) is used to explore the resuspension, transport, and deposition of sediment caused by Northeasters. The model transports multiple sediment classes and tracks the evolution of a multilevel sediment bed. The surficial sediment characteristics of the bed are coupled to one of several bottom-boundary layer modules that calculate enhanced bottom roughness due to wave–current interaction. The wave field is calculated from the model Simulating WAves Nearshore (SWAN). Two idealized simulations were carried out to explore the effects of Northeasters on the transport and fate of sediments. In one simulation, an initially spatially uniform bed of mixed sediments exposed to a series of Northeasters evolved to a pattern similar to the existing surficial sediment distribution. A second set of simulations explored sediment-transport pathways caused by storms with winds from the northeast quadrant by simulating release of sediment at selected locations. Storms with winds from the north cause transport southward along the western shore of Massachusetts Bay, while storms with winds from the east and southeast drive northerly nearshore flow. The simulations show that Northeasters can effectively transport sediments from Boston Harbor and the area offshore of the harbor to the southeast into Cape Cod Bay and offshore into Stellwagen Basin. This transport pattern is consistent with Boston Harbor as the source of silver found in the surficial sediments of Cape Cod Bay and Stellwagen Basin.  相似文献   

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