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1.
The focus of this study is the analysis of coastal sand barriers and associated coastal lagoons on the inner continental shelf of the Gulf of Valencia (western Mediterranean), based on two W–E seismic profiles recorded seaward of the Albufera de Valencia coastal lagoon. Seismic facies identified include a number of coastal sand barriers with landward lagoons draped by contemporary continental shelf deposits. The barrier systems have been grouped into two sedimentary systems tracts, the older one corresponding to a prograding/aggrading highstand systems tract involving at least four paleo-coastal sand barrier/lagoon systems, followed landward by a transgressive systems tract comprising three such systems. All the systems have been allocated a Tyrrhenian age, the formation of individual barrier systems having been associated with successive sea-level stillstands, and their present-day position being explained by the very high regional subsidence rate. In summary, this study demonstrates that the Quaternary stratigraphic record of the Gulf of Valencia inner continental shelf is composed of littoral sand facies, in particular coastal sand barrier and lagoon deposits. These findings are in agreement with corresponding observations on other continental shelves of the western Mediterranean, showing that the formation of coastal sand barriers was a characteristic feature of this region during the Quaternary.  相似文献   

2.
Gradients in salt marsh ecosystems that result from reduced tidal inundation time in the high marsh offer an opportunity to assess the importance of predation as a selective agent (indexed by the time-averaged record of unsuccessful predation, which integrates potentially confounding short-term – inter-seasonal and inter-annual – fluctuations in predation pressure). Spatial patterns in selection pressure are expected to decrease landward from the seaward edge of the marsh. Interaction between shell-breaking predators and their snail prey, Littoraria irrorata, however, generated a pattern in the frequency of sublethal injury (shell repair), standardized for snail size, that did not follow this simple, single-variable prediction of decreasing repair frequencies with distance from the seaward edge of the marsh, based on inundation time alone. Patterns of repair frequency increased landward from the seaward edge of the marsh, only declining as predicted after a zone of dense stands of salt marsh grass. The interaction of tidal inundation time and primary habitat structure ( e.g. physical vegetative barriers to dispersion of predators into the marsh) is hypothesized to shape selection gradients in salt marshes, as inferred from the record of unsuccessful predation.  相似文献   

3.
三角洲内部潮汐不对称性与三角洲地貌演变方向有重要关系。目前诸多研究关注海洋、陆地边界的改变对三角洲内的潮汐不对称性演变规律的影响。实际上, 大规模的河口工程也会对三角洲内的潮汐不对称性产生影响。在众多河口工程中, 河口挡潮闸由于直接削弱口门处海洋潮动力, 影响最为直接。荷兰三角洲是潮动力主导型三角洲, 受洪潮灾害影响较为严重, 为此在荷兰西南部修建了世界上著名的三角洲挡潮闸工程。文章以荷兰莱茵河-默兹河三角洲为研究对象, 分析以挡潮闸为主的河口工程对三角洲内河网潮汐不对称性演变特征的影响。选取莱茵河-默兹河三角洲13个潮位站点的50~60年的水文资料, 利用非平稳调和分析方法计算分析三角洲内部潮汐传播特性, 并进一步研究潮汐涨落潮历时不对称性演变特征, 揭示河口挡潮闸工程对潮汐河网中潮汐动力和潮汐不对称性的影响。研究表明, 莱茵河-默兹河三角洲为显著的涨潮占优型河口, 潮汐不对称现象总体向上游沿程增强。河口挡潮闸修建后受河网径流量和潮动力剧烈变化的影响, 封闭的南部通道内的潮波大幅度削弱, 潮汐不对称现象在下游增强在上游减弱。北部、中部通道其他站点则因为通道径流增大, 潮汐不对称现象增强, 中部站点变化更为显著。  相似文献   

4.
The nearshore frontal zone off the coast of Georgia was found to be an area of high phytoplankton and bacterioplankton abundance and activity. Phytoplankton and bacterioplankton populations on the seaward side of the frontal zone had significantly higher photosynthetic and heterotrophic potentials than the nearshore side of the front. Phytoplankton species composition changed across the front, verifying that the front is a barrier to cross shelf mixing. Nearshore, large chain forming diatoms dominated, while smaller single cell diatoms and cyanobacteria dominated the seaward side of the front. Increased bacterioplankton activity was found associated with phytoplankton photosynthetic activity. Light appeared to be the major factor controlling photosynthesis across the frontal zone. Nitrogen, phosphorus and silica were present in similar concentrations, well above levels that would limit photosynthesis, on both sides of the front. Therefore the outflow of nutrients from rivers or estuaries did not influence primary production directly.  相似文献   

5.
我国许多挡潮闸,地睛淤泥质海岸,闸下港道淤积十分严重。为了清除闸下港道淤积,提高挡潮闸的排涝能力,对耙具作了改进,经历了单面齿耙、双面齿耙、掺气耙和改进型掺气耙四个发展阶段,本文介绍清淤耙的发展过程,并对各种耙具进行了对比。拖耙清淤机具具有效率高、费用低的特点,每立方米的清淤成本仅为常规挖泥船的三分之一左右。  相似文献   

6.
《Oceanologica Acta》1999,22(6):567-578
In New Caledonia, core data indicate that the fringing reefs grew during the last interglacial and the Holocene, while the barrier reefs developed during several high sea level stands of the Quaternary. These growth periods are archived in a 128-m-long core from Ilot Amédée, offshore of Nouméa. Directly upon the peridotitic substrate (reached at 126.50 m), a basal unit comprising abundant rhodoliths, molluscs and rare corals is characteristic of the pioneer stage of barrier reef development. Above it, a severely calcitized unit contains corals, molluscs and abundant micritic levels. Then, a sequence punctuated by several minor discontinuities and by a downward increase in diagenetic alteration is found. At 47 m core depth, a unit, which is thought to be related to isotopic stages 7 and 9, contains thin beds of coralgal frameworks and muddy detritus. The 125 ka-old reef, from 14 to 37 m core deep, is predominantly composed of biocalcarenites and rare coral colonies. Finally, the Holocene reef is composed of sands and scarce coral buildups. Drilling results indicate that the distributional patterns of the 125-ka-old reef bodies around New Caledonia express an increasing tendency of island subsidence northward, southwestward and more markedly seaward, mainly controlled by isostatic readjustments and margin collapse.  相似文献   

7.
Teng  Bin  Huang  Jin 《中国海洋工程》2019,33(5):509-521
The extraordinary transmission(ET) phenomenon is examined for waves propagating through gaps of vertical thin barriers in channels with a hypersingular boundary element method model on the linear potential theory, and an estimate formula based on small gap approximation for predicting the number of ET frequencies is proposed.Numerical computations are carried out to examine the influences of barrier number, barrier interval, gap size, gap position and barrier arrangement on extraordinary transmission and wave height in the channel. It shows that all of those factors evidently affect the extraordinary transmission frequencies. The contours of wave amplitude show that very high waves can be excited in the basins between barriers at the extraordinary transmission frequencies. Proper arrangement of barriers in a channel can avoid the occurrence of ET phenomenon and reduce wave height in the channel.  相似文献   

8.
Nearly 200 km of high-resolution ground penetrating radar (GPR) data were acquired along the Outer Banks barrier island system of North Carolina, USA. GPR data combined with lithofacies and biofacies data reveal multiple depositional facies including inlet channel, flood-tide delta, overwash, peat and inner shelf. Previously undocumented paleo-inlet channels constitute a significant portion of the shallow geologic framework between Oregon Inlet and Cape Hatteras. GPR data reveal the complex stratigraphy associated with multiple sequences of cut-and-fill within inlet channels. Two types of paleochannels (non-migrating and migrating) were classified based on geometry and fill-patterns. Sediments and foraminifera collected from vibracores were correlated to GPR data to define the regional shallow stratigraphic framework. Channel-fill facies are characterized by clinoform packages, sometimes bounded by erosional surfaces, indicating variable sediment transport directions from the ocean and sound sides. Channels are incised into older flood-tide delta deposits corresponding to older inlet activity when barriers existed further seaward. Flood-tide delta deposits are capped with marsh peat and overwash units. Migrating inlet facies occur under the widest portions of the island, whereas narrow portions of the island are underlain by the non-migrating inlet facies or flood-tide delta/overwash facies. This geologic/geomorphic relationship is attributed to the successional stage of island evolution during transgression, and sediment transport processes associated with the different inlet types. The radar facies, lithofacies, and biofacies provide a comprehensive dataset that will permit more precise identification of barrier island facies in the geologic record.  相似文献   

9.
Washovers, dune scarps and flattened beach profiles with concentrations of coarse-grained sediment or heavy minerals are the diagnostic geological signatures of large storms on barriers today. It is clear that storms are a major force driving transgressive barriers onshore, but what is not as well understood is the role these powerful erosive events play in the evolution of prograding barriers. Application of ground-penetrating radar (GPR) and a combination of coring techniques have significantly improved our ability to image barrier architecture. Results of these studies reveal a more complex evolution than previously recognized. It is now possible to precisely locate and map storm deposits within prograded barrier lithosomes.

A comprehensive study of northern Castle Neck, Massachusetts was performed using 15 km of GPR surveys, a 120-m-long seismic line, 11 cores, and several radiocarbon dates. Storm-related layers are the most prominent horizons contained in the barrier stratigraphy. The geometry and sedimentology of these layers closely resembles those of a present-day post-storm beach. Twenty closely spaced, curvilinear heavy mineral layers imaged in the landward portion of the barrier suggest that the Castle Neck barrier was heavily influenced by storms during its initial phase of progradation beginning 4000 years BP. Approximately 1800 years BP, two intense storms impacted the coast depositing two extensive coarse-grained units. These layers mimic the flat-lying sand and gravel deposits that occur in front of a nearby eroding till outcrop following major storms. The great number of storm deposits in the early history of Castle Neck is related to either a period of greater storm activity and/or a slow rate of barrier progradation. The occurrence and preservation of these earlier storm layers are likely a product of the exposure of nearby drumlins resulting in greater availability of iron oxide and ferromagnesian sands. The supply of heavy-mineral sands has gradually diminished as the barrier prograded and the proximal drumlin source was buried by beach and dune sands.  相似文献   


10.
The continental-shelf morphology is dominated by glacial erosion and deposition. Erosion is prominent on the near-shore shelf and deposition along the outer shelf edge. The continental slope is characterized by delta-shaped progradations (glaciomarine-sediment fans) seaward of the shelf channels. Canyons cross the continental slope only in the region southeast of Cape Farewell. The continental rise is incised by a number of submarine canyons. Broad sediment ridges on the upper continental rise are probably canyon-eroded remains of extensive Plio-Pleistocene fans. A mid-ocean channel which crosses the continental rise is possibly related to the axis of maximum depth of Denmark Strait. Despite the presence of strong bottom currents, there is no indication of depositional sediment drifts along the continental margin of Greenland between Cape Farewell and Denmark Strait. This may be a function of high current velocity or low sediment load.Sea floor older than 60 m.y. B.P. is present just seaward of the Greenland continental margin implying either downwarped continental material or an early rift formed prior to the separation of Greenland from the European plate. A left lateral offset of anomalies 20 and 21 at 65°N indicates a major fracture zone related to the Greenland continental margin offset nearby.  相似文献   

11.
A study of the East Frisian Islands has shown that the plan form of these islands can be explained by processes of inlet sediment bypassing. This island chain is located on a high wave energy, high tide range shoreline where the average deep-water significant wave height exceeds 1.0 m and the spring tidal range varies from 2.7 m at Juist to 2.9 m at Wangerooge. An abundant sediment supply and a strong eastward component of wave power (4.4 × 103 W m−1) have caused a persistent eastward growth of the barrier islands. The eastward extension of the barriers has been accommodated more by inlet narrowing, than by inlet migration.

It is estimated from morphological evidence that a minimum of 2.7 × 105 m3 of sand is delivered to the inlets each year via the easterly longshore transport system. Much of this sand ultimately bypasses the inlets in the form of large, migrating swash bars. The location where the swash bars attach to the beach is controlled by the amount of overlap of the ebb-tidal delta along the downdrift inlet shoreline. The configuration of the ebbtidal delta, in turn, is a function of inlet size and position of the main ebb channel. The swash bar welding process has caused preferential beach nourishment and historical shoreline progradation. Along the East Frisian Islands this process has produced barrier islands with humpbacked, bulbous updrift and bulbous downdrift shapes. The model of barrier island development presented in this paper not only explains well the configuration of the German barriers but also the morphology of barriers along many other mixed energy coasts.  相似文献   


12.
Biological Traits Analysis (BTA) is a method for addressing ecological functioning based on traits exhibited by members of biological assemblages. This study explores and compares species and biological trait patterns on either side (landward and seaward) of coastal breakwater structures in northwestern Adriatic Sea (Italy), with the aim of giving insights and knowledge for management of sandy beach systems affected by coastal development. Eight ecological traits of 96 benthic species were considered. Taxon composition evidenced differences in benthic assemblages across time and exposure: landward and seaward communities shared less than 50% of the total number of species. BTA suggested a no-management effect in the functioning of benthic assemblages. Dominant traits modalities were deposit-feeding, short life, small body size, short life span, iteroparity, gonocorism, with plankto-planktotrophic larvae. The results of BTA highlighted similarities and stability in trait composition contrary to species composition, suggesting a possible persistence in benthic functioning despite the occurrence of species replacements. To best of my knowledge, this study is one of the first attempts to investigate the effects of a management measure (submerged shore-parallel barriers with groynes) in a shallow marine system by means of BTA.  相似文献   

13.
Recent experimental results have shown that the presence of a steady current can significantly reduce the energy of transmitted waves. In this paper, a theory is developed to study the wave scattering by single or double vertical slotted barriers in the presence of a weak uniform current. The quasi-linear theory is based on an eigenfunction expansion method. Comparisons between theory and existing experimental results for both single slotted barrier and double slotted barriers show satisfactory agreements. In consideration of wave propagation in a weak current it is found that the friction factor used to characterize the head loss at the slotted barrier depends on both the geometry of the slotted barrier and the strength of the steady current.  相似文献   

14.
河北昌黎典型海岸沙丘的沉积构造及其发育模式   总被引:3,自引:0,他引:3  
采用探地雷达探测了昌黎海岸沙丘区典型横向沙脊和新月形沙丘的沉积构造,据此初步揭示了研究区海岸沙丘的沉积序列特征和发育过程。结果表明,昌黎海岸带在2 000 a BP波浪作用下发育滨岸沙坝,沙坝主要以向海向陆缓倾斜的沉积构造为主,现今的风成沉积发育于滨海相沙坝之上。海岸带向海一侧经历了潮上带前丘到横向沙脊的过程,横向沙脊在东北风的作用下主要发育向陆倾斜的高角度交错层理,同时由于向岸合成风力的阶段性变化,这些层理的倾角略有差异,记录了海岸带风沙活动的周期性变化;内侧新月形沙丘由4组倾角不同的层理组成,被较大规模的二级界面分隔,复合新月形沙丘(链)经历了由盾状沙堆到典型新月形沙丘的加积发育并遭受风蚀的过程。  相似文献   

15.
Coastal-morphological, geophysical (ground-penetrating radar [GPR]), and sedimentological data document extreme storm events along the sandy barriers of Maine's south–central (Hunnewell and Flat Point barriers) and southwestern (Saco Bay barriers) coastal compartments. The Hunnewell barrier contains four equally spaced buried storm scarps behind the exposed scarp of the Blizzard of 1978, a 100-year storm that eroded more than 100 m of shoreline, causing extensive property loss. These scarps dip 3–5° steeper than the normal beachface slope and consist of sands with more than 50% heavy minerals. The heavy minerals produce distinct subsurface reflections that facilitate the location of buried supratidal parts of storm scarps and the mapping of ancient poststorm shoreline positions. The imaged scarps likely formed within the past 1.5–2.0 ka BP. The Flat Point barrier consists of a prograded sequence overlain by a laterally extensive, seaward-thinning layer of freshwater peat and capped by aeolian sands. This stratigraphy suggests that the bog varied in size through time, contracting during overwash events and aeolian deposition and expanding across washover sheets during extended periods of barrier stability. The main overwash event accompanied by barrier planation and wetland expansion may be linked to the first historical storm in New England, the “Great Colonial Hurricane” of 1635.

Evidence of near-modern and mid-Holocene storm events along Saco Bay includes washover units and marsh ridges. Washovers interfinger with saltmarsh peat that ranges in age from 4.5 ka BP to modern. The presence of isolated sandy ridges behind existing and former tidal inlets reflects overtopping of marshes and high intertidal mudflats during major storms. Radiocarbon ages indicate that this process took place at different locations along the Saco Bay barrier complex from 3 to 1 ka BP.  相似文献   


16.
In the stratification of the most coarse-textured barrier island of a system of sand and gravel barrier spits and islands on Point Torment peninsula, King Sound, W.A., foreslope beds due to swash-backwash on the beach face are unimportant. The main units are steeply-dipping backslope beds and topslope beds of gentle, chiefly landward inclination. Their bimodal sediments are poorly sorted for wave-built features. A very coarse mode usually at ?1.5 to ?2 ?i; belongs to a population of well-rounded but platy, impure limestone, of local but unlocated source, whereas the fine mode, almost invariably 1.00 to 1.25 ?i;, represents a population of quartz sand fed from low and sub-tidal estuarine shoals. The two populations are thought to derive from the surface creep and saltation cloud components of “traction carpets”. Swash of intermediate energy waves forms the topslope beds through percolation. Washover by waves of translation generated by occasional hurricanes erodes the top of the feature and deposits the backslope beds on the rear face in standing water at abnormally high levels through storm set-up. In both, unidirectional currents produce sediments with certain resemblances to fluvial “traction clog” deposits.Dated by underlying mangrove wood of 1200 B.P. in front and of 500 B.P. in the rear, this barrier probably retreated through mangrove swamp in the manner of some presently active members of the barrier system. The seaward mangrove swamps neither protect the embankments behind nor suffer seriously from the waves rolling the latter landward.  相似文献   

17.
Barrier island stratigraphy and Holocene history of west-central Florida   总被引:4,自引:0,他引:4  
Although the morphology of the barrier-inlet system along the west-central Florida coast is quite complicated, the stratigraphy of these barriers is rather simple. The basal Holocene unit in most cores is an organic-rich, muddy sand that represents a vegetated, paralic marine, coastal environment similar to that which is north and south of the present barrier system. Above that unit is a muddy, bioturbated sand that displays a marine fauna at most locations but also contains Crassostrea virginica in a few places. These sediments accumulated in a low-energy marine setting that may or may not have been protected by a barrier island. Much of this facies also represents sediment that was delivered as washover deposits in an intertidal or subtidal setting and was subsequently bioturbated. The facies that can be attributed to a barrier island with some certainty are no more than 3000 years old, and on most islands, are much younger. These are the shelly sand and sorted sand facies. The shelly strata represent deposition in nearshore, beach, supratidal washover or intertidal spillover environments, and tidal inlet and tidal delta channels, whereas the sorted sand is typical of eolian deposition in dunes or the backbeach and some tidal delta elements. The presence of Holocene oyster beds offshore of a present barrier suggests that some of these islands formed significantly offshore and moved to their present position through washover. It is likely that most of these barriers initially formed through upward shoaling by waves. Although there is significant morphologic difference between the wave-dominated and mixed-energy, drumstick barrier islands, their stratigraphy is quite similar. The only significant difference is the presence of extensive progradation on at least part of the drumstick islands and a relatively high amount of former washover deposits on the wave-dominated type.  相似文献   

18.
19.
辽河口海区悬浮体运移扩散动力特征   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1  
控制着辽河口海区悬浮体运移的主要动力是河流迳流、潮流和余流.它们对最大浑浊带中河水与海水的混合,密度流循环以及悬浮物的沉降和运移共同起作用.悬浮物向海运移与河口区最大浑浊带有关,即与河流迳流、潮流和余流作用所控制的悬浮物数量有关。悬浮物向海运移似乎遵循两个周期:1.小潮—大湖周期;2.河流迳流丰枯周期.最大运移发生在大潮期和河流迳流丰水期。  相似文献   

20.
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