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1.
In this study, the artificial opening of a new tidal inlet in an existing multiple inlet system is shown to significantly modify the adjacent nearshore and backbarrier morphology, as well as both updrift and downdrift shorelines. The study focuses on the dominant Faro‐Olhão and Armona inlets in the Ria Formosa barrier island system of southern Portugal. The equilibrium state and future evolution of the system are inferred using a range of morphological and hydrodynamic indicators, including the evolution of the inlet cross‐section, changes in tidal prism, and changes in the dimensions (length and area) of barrier islands. The results reveal how the morphology of an interconnected two‐inlet bay system and the adjacent coastlines has evolved following the artificial opening and stabilization of Faro‐Olhão inlet since 1929. A clear relationship between barrier island size, inlet cross‐section/width, and tidal prism is demonstrated. Decadal time‐scale changes in the tidal prism of the two interconnected inlets are shown to be the main mechanism responsible for morphological change, and have resulted in the remobilization of ebb‐tidal delta sediments deposited during previous hydraulic configurations. These changes, in turn, have contributed to a narrowing of Armona inlet and an increase in the size of Culatra Island. The work highlights the importance of ebb‐tidal deltas both as sand reservoirs and as conduits through which sand exchange between estuaries or lagoons and the open coast is regulated. It also shows the pivotal role of ebb‐tidal deltas in trapping longshore‐transported sediment and releasing it again during periods of increased wave activity. The findings have implications regarding the accurate assessment of the stability of multiple inlet systems. Copyright © 2011 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

2.
Hagen  Robert  Winter  Christian  K&#;sters  Frank 《Ocean Dynamics》2022,72(5):325-340
Ocean Dynamics - The recent morphological development of the German Wadden Sea (North Sea, Europe) has been characterized by expanding intertidal flats and deepening, narrowing tidal channels at...  相似文献   

3.
The impact of sea level rise (SLR) on the future morphological development of the Wadden Sea (North Sea) is investigated by means of extensive process-resolving numerical simulations. A new sediment and morphodynamic module was implemented in the well-established 3D circulation model GETM. A number of different validations are presented, ranging from an idealized 1D channel over a semi-idealized 2D Wadden Sea basin to a fully coupled realistic 40-year hindcast without morphological amplification of the Sylt-Rømøbight, a semi-enclosed subsystem of the Wadden Sea. Based on the results of the hindcast, four distinct future scenarios covering the period 2010–2100 are simulated. While these scenarios differ in the strength of SLR and wind forcing, they also account for an expected increase of tidal range over the coming century. The results of the future projections indicate a transition from a tidal-flat-dominated system toward a lagoon-like system, in which large fractions of the Sylt-Rømøbight will remain permanently covered by water. This has potentially dramatic implications for the unique ecosystem of the Wadden Sea. Although the simulations also predict an increased accumulation of sediment in the back-barrier basin, this accumulation is far too weak to compensate for the rise in mean sea level.  相似文献   

4.
The response of the tidal system in the southern North Sea to morphodynamic changes was investigated in a modelling study using fine resolution bathymetric observations available for 1982–2011. The Semi-implicit Cross-scale Hydroscience Integrated System Model (SCHISM) was set up for the different sets of bathymetries. One set of bathymetry was compiled from a large number of bathymetric measurements over many years, while the other two reflected bathymetry state in the area of Wadden Sea during 2000 and 2011, respectively. The temporal and spatial evolution of bathymetry was dominated by migration of tidal channels. The M4 tide showed larger sensitivity to bathymetric change in the Wadden Sea than the M2 tide, whereas the structure of the latter remained rather robust. The largest change of the tidal wave due to the differences in bathymetries was located off the North Frisian Wadden Sea. Traces of changes were also found far away from the regions of their origin because the tidal waves in the North Sea propagate the local disturbances basin-wide. This illustrated an efficient physical mechanism of teleconnectivity, i.e. effecting the local responses to the larger-scale or remote change of ocean bottom caused by erosion and deposition. The tidal distortion resulting from the relatively small bathymetric changes was substantial, particularly in the coastal zone. This is a manifestation of the nonlinear tidal transformation in shallow oceans and is crucial for the sediment transport and the morphodynamic feedback, because of the altered tidal asymmetry.  相似文献   

5.
This study focuses on the medium scale morphodynamics of the tidal flat and channel system Fedderwarder Priel, located in the Outer Weser estuary (Wadden Sea, Germany). Tidal channels and adjacent flats are highly dynamic systems whose morphologic evolution are driven by tidal, wind, and wave forcings. These coastal environments are an important ecosystem and react to changes in hydrodynamic conditions in various spatial and temporal scales. Based on annual medium-resolution digital elevation models from 1998 to 2016, we describe changes in the surface area over depth with hypsometries and use vertical dynamic trends in order to analyze and visualize the morphologic evolution of the Fedderwarder Priel and adjacent tidal channels. It is shown that several intertidal flats rise in the order of 1.3 to 5.6 cm/year. The findings indicate that the Outer Weser estuary was not in an equilibrium state for the investigated period, and tidal flats accreted with a rate exceeding mean sea level rise.  相似文献   

6.
Observational evidence for estuarine circulation in the German Wadden Sea   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  
Observational evidence is presented, which corroborates the hypothesis of the general presence of estuarine circulation in the Wadden Sea as put forward in a previous study (Burchard et al., 2008). Current velocity data from moored ADCPs (in the Hörnum Deep south of Sylt Island, 2002-2009) and ship cruises (in several locations in the German Wadden Sea, 2000-2008) were analysed. As a general result, the vertical current profiles above the benthic boundary layer are usually more homogeneous during flood than during ebb, with a pronounced dependence on the cross-shore horizontal density difference. This tidal asymmetry consequently must lead to a residual outflow of Wadden Sea waters in the upper part and a residual inflow of water in the lower part of the water column, thus giving a generic explanation for the obvious net import of suspended sediments from the German Bight into the Wadden Sea.  相似文献   

7.
A hydrographic time series station in the Wadden Sea (southern North Sea)   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  
In the tidal inlet between the East Frisian islands of Langeoog and Spiekeroog, southern North Sea, a time-series station was set up in autumn 2002 as part of the research programme BioGeoChemistry of Tidal Flats run by the University of Oldenburg. The purpose of the station is to provide continuous data on physical, biological and chemical parameters. In addition to instruments recording basic hydrographic and meteorological parameters, the time-series station is equipped with acoustic Doppler profilers for measuring surface waves and current profiles. Compact optical spectrometers are being used for spectral measurements of seawater transmission and for daylight reflectance. Additional sensors were installed for measuring oxygen, nutrients and methane in the seawater. The data shall help to quantify the flux of dissolved and suspended matter between the backbarrier tidal flat and the open sea and to characterise the material transformation in the tidal flat area by biogeochemical processes over the tidal cycle. Due to its novel design, operation of the station is also possible during winter and under extreme weather conditions (gales, storm surges, and sea ice) when data sampling with conventional platforms such as research vessels, buoys, or smaller poles could not be performed in the past. In this way, time series of data are obtained, which include events that are most relevant to the evolution of this coastal area. The performance of the station and its equipment are presented with data covering 6 years of operation. Time series of air and water temperature as well as seawater salinity demonstrate the multiyear dynamics of these parameters in the East Frisian Wadden Sea. Hydrographic data collected under specific meteorological conditions such as gales and storm surges exemplify the all-weather capabilities of the station and its value for studying hydrographic processes in the Wadden Sea.  相似文献   

8.
An idealized model is developed and analyzed to investigate the relevance of tidal motion for the emergence of undulations of a sandy coastline. The model describes feedbacks between tidal and steady flow on the inner shelf, sand transport in the nearshore zone and an irregular coastline. It is demonstrated that an initially straight coastline can become unstable with respect to perturbations with a rhythmic structure in the alongshore direction. The mechanism causing the growth of these perturbations is explained in terms of vorticity concepts. The relative importance of tide-related and wave-driven sediment fluxes in generating undulations of the coastline is investigated for the Dutch coast. Using parameter values that are appropriate for the Dutch coast it is found that tides can render a straight coastline unstable. The model predicts a fastest growing mode (FGM) with a wavelength that is in the order of the observed length of barrier islands. The mode grows on a time scale of 50 yr and it migrates 200 m per year. The wavelength of the FGM decreases with increasing amplitude of the tidal currents. This result is consistent with data of tides, waves and the lengths of barrier islands that are located along the Dutch and German Wadden coast.  相似文献   

9.
Observational data, high-resolution numerical modelling results and a simple analytical theory are combined in this paper to demonstrate the dependence of the volume transports through tidal inlets on topographical or morphological parameters of a Wadden Sea system. The area of interest covers the East Frisian Wadden Sea and consists of seven weakly connected tidal basins. The observations include time series of tidal gauge data and surface currents measured at a pile station in the backbarrier basin of the island Langeoog, as well as several ADCP transects in the Accumer Ee tidal inlet. The numerical simulations are based on the 3-D primitive equation General Estuarine Transport Model (GETM) with a horizontal resolution of 200 m and terrain following vertical coordinates. The model is forced at its open boundaries with sea-level data from an operational model for the German Bight (German Hydrographic Office). The simple theoretical concepts presented illustrate the effect of topography (hypsometry) in the tidal basins on the temporal variability of the exchange of water. This topographic control is effectuated through the bottom slope in the areas prone to drying and flooding. For our study area it takes about twice as long from slack water to maximum flood current than from slack water to maximum ebb current. The underlying physics of this signal modulation from a more or less harmonic forcing at the open-sea boundary and the quantification of the contributing physical processes are the major results of this paper. Estimates based simply on volume conservation are consistent with observations and results from numerical modelling, but they do not completely capture the actual non-linear tidal response. Our analysis shows that at least during part of the tidal cycle characteristic topographic parameters of the inlet/bay system have a major impact on the rate of exchange of waters between the Wadden Sea and the open ocean. This impact is especially strong during the transition between flood and ebb conditions. The possible morphodynamic responses are also addressed focusing on some common (universal) topographic features in seven tidal basins.Responsible Editor: Hans Burchard  相似文献   

10.
Suspended particulate matter (SPM) fluxes and dynamics are investigated in the East Frisian Wadden Sea using a coupled modeling system based on a hydrodynamical model [the General Estuarine Transport Model (GETM)], a third-generation wave model [Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN)], and a SPM module attached to GETM. Sedimentological observations document that, over longer time periods, finer sediment fractions disappear from the Wadden Sea Region. In order to understand this phenomenon, a series of numerical scenarios were formulated to discriminate possible influences such as tidal currents, wind-enhanced currents, and wind-generated surface waves. Starting with a simple tidal forcing, the considered scenarios are designed to increase the realism step by step to include moderate and strong winds and waves and, finally, to encompass the full effects of one of the strongest storm surges affecting the region in the last hundred years (Storm Britta in November 2006). The results presented here indicate that moderate weather conditions with wind speeds up to 7.5 m/s and small waves lead to a net import of SPM into the East Frisian Wadden Sea. Waves play only a negligible role during these conditions. However, for stronger wind conditions with speeds above 13 m/s, wind-generated surface waves have a significant impact on SPM dynamics. Under storm conditions, the numerical results demonstrate that sediments are eroded in front of the barrier islands by enhanced wave action and are transported into the back-barrier basins by the currents. Furthermore, sediment erosion due to waves is significantly enhanced on the tidal flats. Finally, fine sediments are flushed out of the tidal basins due to the combined effect of strong erosion by wind-generated waves and a longer residence time in the water column because of their smaller settling velocities compared to coarser sediments.
Karsten A. LettmannEmail:
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11.
 In this paper we use a combination of numerical modeling and data analysis to gain a better understanding of the major characteristics of the circulation in the East Frisian Wadden Sea. In particular, we concentrate on the asymmetry of the tidal wave and its modulation in the coastal area, which results in a complex pattern of responses to the sea-level forcing from the North Sea. The numerical simulations are based on the 3-D primitive equation General Estuarine Transport Model (GETM) with a horizontal resolution of 200 m and terrain-following vertical coordinates. The model is forced at its open boundaries with sea-level data from an operational model for the German Bight (German Hydrographic Office). The validation data for our model simulations include time series of tidal gauge data and surface currents measured at a pile in the back-barrier basin of the Island Langeoog, as well as several ADCP transects in the Accumer Ee tidal inlet. Circulation and turbulence characteristics are investigated for typical situations driven by spring and neap tides, and the analysis is focused on dominating temporal and spatial patterns. By investigating the response of five back-barrier basins with rather different morphologies to external forcing, an attempt is made to elucidate the dominating physical balances controlling the circulation in the individual sub-basins. It is demonstrated that the friction at the seabed tends to slow down the tidal signal in the shallow water. This leads to the establishment of flood dominance in the shallow sea north of the barrier islands. South of the islands, where the water volume of the channels at low tide is smaller than the tidal prism, the asymmetry of the tidal signal is shifted towards ebb dominance, a feature which is particularly pronounced at spring tide. At the northern open boundary, the tidal wave propagating from west to east generates a sea-level difference of ∼1 m along the boundary, and thereby triggers vigorous alongshore currents. The frictional control in the model is located in the inlets, as well as along the northern boundary. The correlation between velocity and turbulent kinetic energy tends to the establishment of a net southward transport, giving theoretical support to the observed accumulation of sediments on the intertidal flats. Weak turbulence along the northern shores of the barrier islands and the small magnitude of the residual currents there promote accumulation of suspended matter in these areas, although wave action will generally counteract this effect. Received: 29 May 2002 / Accepted: 26 September 2002 Responsible Editor: Jean-Marie Beckers Acknowledgements We are indebted to S. Dick for providing the data from the operational model of BSH and to B. Flemming for the useful discussions. The topography data and Fig. 1 have been prepared in cooperation with F. Meyer. Figure 2 has been prepared by G. Brink-Spalink. We also thank for the comments from an anonymous reviewer which helped to improve our paper.  相似文献   

12.
The influence of sand and mud transport on the morphological behaviour of a short tidal basin is investigated in this paper. For this purpose, a morphological model is applied in which sand and mud transport are included and the temporal and spatial bed composition variations are taken into account. Initially, the morphological development shows a sand wave near the entrance of the basin and a mud deposition wave more landward. A quasi equilibrium bed level profile is found after a long period (order century) with a sandy bed surface over almost the entire basin and only a small muddy area near the landward end. The dimensionless ratio between the deposition and erosion flux turns out to be a crucial parameter for the understanding of the observed behaviour. Comparison with previous studies on short tidal basins for sand indicates only that the presence of mud in a combined sand mud model does not change the equilibrium bed level profile considerably for the applied parameter settings herein, but drastically decreases the morphological time scale. Comparison between model results and field data of the Wadden Sea suggests that the obtained bed level and bed composition profile are realistic, indicating that the process-based sand mud model is a first step towards a better understanding of sand mud distributions in tidal basins.Responsible Editor: Jens Kappenberg  相似文献   

13.
The dynamics of sediment transport in the East Frisian Wadden Sea are important for the coastal zone and for ecosystem functioning. The tidal inlets between the East Frisian islands connect the back-barrier intertidal flats to the North Sea. Here, concentrations of suspended particulate matter (SPM) in the water column are highly variable, depending on weather conditions and tides. In order to estimate the nature and quantity of sediment transport, in situ measurements were carried out at a Time Series Station in the tidal inlet between the islands of Spiekeroog and Langeoog. This study shows the suitability of multispectral transmissometry (MST) for obtaining long-term SPM measurements with high resolution. The comparability of this technique to the standard filter method and the laser diffraction method [laser in situ scattering and transmissometry (LISST)] is demonstrated. In addition, the Junge coefficients derived from both MST and LISST measurements are compared. A time series of SPM data covering nearly 4 months is presented. As a major result, the data reveal that a single storm surge can have less impact on SPM dynamics than longer-lasting gales. This high-resolution long-term data set is very valuable for modelling suspended matter flux. It also provides background information for studying the influence of SPM dynamics on coastal sediments.  相似文献   

14.
Under natural conditions, barrier islands might grow vertically and migrate onshore under the influence of long‐term sea level rise. Sediment is transported onshore during storm‐induced overwash and inundation. However, on many Dutch Wadden Islands, dune openings are closed off by artificial sand‐drift dikes that prevent the influx of sediment during storms. It has been argued that creating openings in the dune row to allow regular flooding on barrier islands can have a positive effect on the sediment budget, but the dominant hydrodynamic processes and their influence on sediment transport during overwash and inundation are unknown. Here, we present an XBeach model study to investigate how sediment transport during overwash and inundation across the beach of a typical mesotidal Wadden Sea barrier island is influenced by wave, tide and storm surge conditions. Firstly, we validated the model XBeach with field data on waves and currents during island inundation. In general, the XBeach model performed well. Secondly, we studied the long‐term sediment transport across the barrier island. We distinguished six representative inundation classes, ranging from frequently occurring, low‐energy events to infrequent, high‐energy events, and simulated the hydrodynamics and sediment transport during these events. An analysis of the model simulations shows that larger storm events cause larger cross‐shore sediment transport, but the net sediment exchange during a storm levels off or even becomes smaller for the largest inundation classes because it is counteracted by larger mean water levels in the Wadden Sea that oppose or even reverse sediment transport during inundation. When taking into account the frequency of occurrence of storms we conclude that the cumulative effect of relatively mild storms on long‐term cross‐shore sediment transport is much larger than that of the large storm events. © 2017 The Authors. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.  相似文献   

15.
Ocean colour-based monitoring of water masses is a promising alternative to monitoring concentrations in heterogeneous coastal seas. Fuzzy methods, such as spectral unmixing, are especially well suited for recognition of water masses from their remote sensing reflectances. However, such models have not yet been applied for water classification and monitoring. In this study, a fully constrained endmember model with simulated endmembers was developed for water class identification in the shallow Wadden Sea and adjacent German Bight. Its performance was examined on in situ measured reflectances and on MERIS satellite data. Water classification by means of unmixing reflectance spectra proved to be successful. When the endmember model was applied to MERIS data, it was able to visualise well-known spatial, tidal, seasonal, and wind-related variations in optical properties in the heterogeneous Wadden Sea. Analyses show that the method is insensitive to small changes in endmembers. Therefore, it can be applied in similar coastal areas. For use in open ocean situations or coastal or inland waters with other specific inherent optical properties, re-simulation of the endmember spectra with local optical properties is required. However, such an adaptation requires only a limited number of local in situ measurements.  相似文献   

16.
An idealized numerical model is developed to study the spatial asymmetry of ebb–tidal deltas under influence of large-scale alongshore tidal currents. It is shown that the asymmetry of the delta depends on the magnitude of the cross-shore and large scale alongshore tidal currents, their phase difference, and on the width of the inlet. Model results are compared with observations of ebb–tidal deltas of the tidal inlet systems of the Dutch Wadden Sea and with the ebb–tidal delta of the Eastern Scheldt, located in the southwestern part of the Netherlands. The modeled current and residual sediment transport patterns agree well with observed ones. The modeled asymmetry of the ebb–tidal delta also agree with observed ones. Furthermore, bottom patterns are consistent with those found with a previous version of the idealized model which focused on the modeling of symmetric ebb–tidal deltas. However, the model is not able to reproduce the observed ebb-dominated channel. The underlying physical processes are explained in terms of vorticity dynamics. The convergence of the mean vorticity flux generates mean vorticity and thereby residual circulation. An analysis shows there is competition between two contributions to the convergence of the mean vorticity flux. This competition explains the sensitivity of the results to the model parameters.  相似文献   

17.
The tides and tidal energetics in the Indonesian seas are simulated using a three-dimensional finite volume coastal ocean model. The high-resolution coastline-fitted model is configured to better resolve the hydrodynamic processes around the numerous barrier islands. A large model domain is adopted to minimize the uncertainty adjacent to open boundaries. The model results with elevation assimilation based on a simple nudge scheme faithfully reproduced the general features of the barotropic tides in the Indonesian Seas. The mean root-mean-square errors between the observed and simulated tidal constants are 2.3, 1.1, 2.4, and 1.5 cm for M2, S2, K1, and O1, respectively. Analysis of the model solutions indicates that the semidiurnal tides in the Indonesian Seas are primarily dominated by the Indian Ocean, whereas the diurnal tides in this region are mainly influenced by the Pacific Ocean, which is consistent with previous studies. Examinations of tidal energy transport reveal that the tidal energy for both of the simulated tidal constituents are transported from the Indian Ocean into the IS mainly through the Lombok Strait and the Timor Sea, whereas only M2 energy enters the Banda Sea and continues northward. The tidal energy dissipates the most in the passages on both sides of Timor Island, with the maximum M2 and K1 tidal energy transport reaching about 750 and 650 kW m–1, respectively. The total energy losses of the four dominant constituents in the IS are nearly 338 GW, with the M2 constituent dissipating 240.8 GW. It is also shown that the bottom dissipation rate for the M2 tide is about 1–2 order of magnitudes larger than that of the other three tidal components in the Indonesian seas.  相似文献   

18.
This study evaluates the patterns and effects of relative sea-level rise on the tidal circulation of the basin of the Ria Formosa coastal lagoon using a process-based model that is solved on an unstructured mesh. To predict the changes in the lagoon tidal circulation in the year 2100, the model is forced by tides and a static sea level. The bathymetry and the basin geometry are updated in response to sea-level rise for three morphological response scenarios: no bed updating, barrier island rollover, and basin infilling. Model results indicate that sea-level rise (SLR) will change the baseline current velocity patterns inside the lagoon over the ~100-year study period, due to a strong reduction in the area of the intertidal basin. The basin infilling scenario is associated with the most important adjustments of the tidal circulation (i.e., increases in the flood velocities and delays in the ebb tide), together with an increase in the cumulative discharges of the tidal inlets. Under sea-level rise and in the basin infilling scenario, the salt marshes and tidal flats experience increases in the tidal range and current asymmetry. Basin infilling changes the sediment flushing capacity of the lagoon, leading to the attenuation of the flood dominance in the main inlet and the strengthening of the flood dominance in the two secondary inlets. The predictions resulting from these scenarios provide very useful information on the long-term evolution of similar coastal lagoons that experience varying degrees of SLR. This study highlights the need for research focusing on the quantification of the physical and socio-economic impacts of SLR on lagoon systems, thus enabling the development of effective adaptation strategies.  相似文献   

19.
The Elbe is one of the major rivers releasing pollutants into the coastal areas of the German North Sea. Its estuary represents the habitat of a small population of harbor seals (Phoca vitulina). Only little is known about the health status and contamination levels of these seals. Therefore, a first-ever seal catch was organized next to the islands of Neuwerk and Scharhörn in the region of the Hamburg Wadden Sea National Park. The investigations included a broad set of health parameters and the analysis of metals and organic pollutants in blood samples. Compared to animals of other Wadden Sea areas, the seals showed higher γ-globulin levels, suggesting higher concentrations of pathogens in this near-urban area, elevated concentrations for several metals in particular for V, Sn, Pb, and Sr, and comparable ranges for chlorinated organic contaminants, except for elevated levels of hexachlorobenzene, which indicates characteristic inputs from the Elbe.  相似文献   

20.
This study fits into a wider research program from RWS RIKZ concerning the exchange of sediment between the coast and the tidal basins, Western Scheldt and Wadden Sea, which are the largest basins along the Dutch Coast, over different time-scales. For both basins, questions about the evolution of the import/export at the mouth recently arose. In case of the Western Scheldt, which is the subject of this study, mainly the uncertainty about the future developments after the change from import to export at the mouth was noticed in the 1990s, which necessitated a more detailed study of this area.  相似文献   

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