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1.
《Continental Shelf Research》2005,25(9):1115-1131
Tidal inlet characteristics are controlled by wave energy, tidal range, tidal prism, sediment supply and direction and rates of sand delivered to the inlet. This paper deals with the relations between inlet and lagoon evolutions, linked by the tidal prism. Our study is focused on the Maumusson Inlet and the Marennes-Oléron Bay (first oyster farming area in Europe), located on the western coast of France. The tidal range (2–6 m) and wave climate (mean height: 1.5 m) place this tidal inlet system in the mixed energy (tide, waves), tide-dominated category. The availability of high-resolution bathymetric data since 1824 permits to characterise and quantify accurately morphological changes of both the inlet and the tidal bay. Since 1824, sediment filling of the tidal bay has led to a 20% decrease in its water volume, and a 35% reduction of the inlet throat section. Furthermore, the bay is subjected to a very high anthropic pressure, mainly related to oyster farming. Thus, both natural and human-related processes seem relevant to explain high sedimentation rates. Current measurements, hydrodynamic modelling and cross-sectional area of the inlet throat are used in order to quantify tidal prism changes since 1824. Both flood and ebb tidal prism decreased by 35%. Decrease in the Marennes-Oléron Bay water volume is inferred to be responsible for a part of tidal prism decrease at the inlet. Tidal prisms decrease may also be explained by an increase in frictional resistance to tidal wave propagation, due to a general shoaling and oyster farms in the bay. A conceptual model is proposed, taking into account natural and human-related sedimentation processes, and explaining tidal inlet response to tidal bay evolutions.  相似文献   

2.
The morphologic changes in estuaries and coastal lagoons are very complex and constitute a challenging task in coastal research. The bathymetric changes result from the combined action of tides, waves, rivers discharge and wind stress in the area of interest. Additionally, an accurate knowledge of the sediment transport is essential to achieve a good morphological characterization. This work establishes the influence of the wave climate on the morphodynamics of the Ria de Aveiro lagoon inlet by analysing the numerical results of the morphodynamic modelling system MORSYS2D. The numerical simulations considered a realistic coupled forcing of tidal currents and waves. The computed sediment fluxes and bathymetric changes are analysed and compared with the erosion and accretion trends obtained from the numerical simulations forced only by tidal currents, in order to establish the wave climate influence. The final bathymetry and the corresponding changes are compared with bathymetric data collected through surveys. It is concluded that: (a) the morphodynamics of the study area is dominated by the wave regime in the lagoon inlet and nearshore areas, while in the inner areas is tidally dominated; and (b) the inclusion of the wave regime forcing constitutes an improvement in order to accurately reproduce the local morphodynamics.  相似文献   

3.
Tidal inlets interrupt longshore sediment transport, thereby exerting an influence on adjacent beach morphology. To investigate the details and spatial extent of an inlet's influence, we examine beach topographic change along a 1.5 km coastal reach adjacent to Matanzas Inlet, on the Florida Atlantic coast. Analyses of beach morphology reveal a behavioral change between 0.64 and 0.86 km from the inlet channel centerline, interpreted to represent the spatial extent of inlet influence. Beyond this boundary, the beach is narrow, exhibits a statistically significant inverse correlation of shoreline position with offshore wave conditions, and has a uniform alongshore pattern in temporal behavior, as determined from empirical orthogonal function (EOF) analysis. On the inlet side of the boundary, the beach experiences monotonic widening (with proximity to the inlet), lacks spatial consistency in correlation between shoreline position and wave conditions, and exhibits an irregular pattern in spatial EOF modes. We augment the field observations with numerical modeling that provides calculations of wave setup and nearshore current patterns near the inlet, highlighting the effects of the ebb‐tidal delta on the assailing waves. The modeling results are verified by a natural experiment that occurred during May 2009, when a storm‐produced sedimentary mass accreted to the lower beach, then subsequently split into two oppositely directed waves of sediment that migrated away from the initial accretion site in the subsequent months. Our results suggest that the ebb‐tidal delta produces a pattern of wave setup that creates a pressure gradient driving an alongshore flow that opposes the longshore currents derived from breaking of obliquely oriented incident waves. The resulting recirculation pattern on the margin of the ebb‐tidal delta provides a mechanism through which the inlet influences adjacent barrier island beach morphology. Copyright © 2016 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

4.
Previous studies on tidal dynamics of coastal aquifers have focussed on the inland propagation of oceanic tides in the cross-shore direction, a configuration that is essentially one-dimensional. Aquifers at natural coasts can also be influenced by tidal waves in nearby estuaries, resulting in a more complex behaviour of head fluctuations in the aquifers. We present an analytical solution to the two-dimensional depth-averaged groundwater flow equation for a semi-infinite aquifer subject to oscillating head conditions at the boundaries. The solution describes the tidal dynamics of a coastal aquifer that is adjacent to a cross-shore estuary. Both the effects of oceanic and estuarine tides on the aquifer are included in the solution. The analytical prediction of the head fluctuations is verified by comparison with numerical solutions computed using a standard finite-difference method. An essential feature of the present analytical solution is the interaction between the cross- and along-shore tidal waves in the aquifer area near the estuary’s entry. As the distance from the estuary or coastline increases, the wave interaction is weakened and the aquifer response is reduced, respectively, to the one-dimensional solution for oceanic tides or the solution of Sun (Sun H. A two-dimensional analytical solution of groundwater response to tidal loading in an estuary, Water Resour Res 1997;33:1429–35) for two-dimensional non-interacting tidal waves.  相似文献   

5.
Tidal channels are ubiquitous in muddy coastlines and play a critical role in the redistribution of sediments, thus dictating the general evolution of intertidal landforms. In muddy coastlines, the morphology of tidal channels and adjacent marshes strongly depends on the supply of fine sediments from the shelf and on the resuspension of sediments by wind waves. To investigate the processes that regulate sediment fluxes in muddy coastlines, we measured tidal velocity and sediment concentration in Little Constance Bayou, a tidal channel in the Rockefeller State Wildlife Refuge, Louisiana, USA. The tidal measurements were integrated with measurements of wave activity in the bay at the mouth of the channel, thus allowing the quantification of feedbacks between waves and sediment fluxes. Results indicate that the sediment concentration in the channel is directly related to the wave height in the adjacent bay during flood and high slack water, whereas the concentration during ebb depends on local channel velocity. Moreover, the sediment flux during ebb is of the same order of magnitude as the sediment flux during the previous flood, indicating that only a small fraction of transported sediments are stored in the marsh during a tidal cycle. Finally, very low tides, characterized by high ebb velocities, export large volumes of sediment to the ocean. Copyright © 2010 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

6.
Knowledge of the physical processes acting at inlet systems and their interaction with sediments and sediment bodies is important to the understanding of such environments. The objectives of this study are to identify and assess the relative importance of the controlling processes across the complex sandbar system at the Teign inlet (Teignmouth, UK) through the combined application of a numerical model, field data and Argus video images. This allows the determination of the regions dominated by wave processes or by tidal processes and definition of the variability of these regions under different wave, tide and river-discharge conditions. Modelling experiments carried out for one stage of the evolution of the system show that the interaction between tidal motion and waves generates complex circulation patterns that drive the local sediment transport and sandbar dynamics, producing a cyclic morphological behaviour of the sandbars that form the ebb-tidal delta. The relative importance of each physical process on the sediment transport and consequent morphodynamics varies across the region. The main inlet channel is dominated by tidal action that directs the sediment transport as a consequence of the varying tidal flow asymmetry, resulting in net offshore transport. Sediment transport over the shoals and secondary channels at both sides of the main channel is dominated by wave-related processes, displacing sediment in the onshore direction. The interaction between waves and tide-generated currents controls the transport over the submerged sandbar that defines the channels seaward extend. High river discharge events are also proven to be important in this region, as they can change sediment-transport patterns across the area.Responsible Editor: Iris Grabemann  相似文献   

7.
Many estuaries contain sandy beaches that provide habitats and offer protective buffers for wetlands and infrastructure, alongside cultural and recreational resources. Research underpinning coastal management tends to focus on tide- and swell-dominated sandy beaches, but little attention is given to beaches in estuaries and bays (BEBs) that exist along a continuum of wind/swell wave, tide and riverine influence. BEBs are subject to less wave energy than open coast locations because of the generally narrow window of directions for which ocean waves can propagate through the entrance. However, when storm wave direction coincides with the orientation of the estuary or bay entrance, waves can penetrate several kilometres inside. Here we focus on eight BEBs in two major bays/estuaries in Sydney, Australia and present observations from before and after a major extratropical storm with waves from an atypical direction in June 2016. We quantify magnitudes of beach erosion and recovery rates for 3 years post-storm. We show that when high-energy storm waves penetrate bays and estuaries, BEBs can undergo up to 100% of subaerial beach erosion. Three years after the storm, only 5 of the 29 (17%) eroded subaerial beach profiles had recovered to their pre-storm volume. This is likely due to the lack of low-frequency, beach-building waves at BEBs under modal weather conditions in between storms, in contrast to open coast beaches. We also show that the recovery of BEBs may be limited by the absence of adjacent sediment reservoirs due to the dominance of tidal processes mid-channel. Our study highlights the unique behaviour of BEBs relative to beaches on the open coast, and that shifting wave direction needs to be considered in long-term beach resilience under climate change. © 2020 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

8.
A 2D depth-averaged numerical model is set up to simulate the macro-scale hydrodynamic characteristics, sediment transport patterns and morphological evolution in Hangzhou Bay, a large macro-tidal estuary on the eastern coast of China. By incorporating the shallow water equations, the suspended sediment transport equation and the mass-balance equation for sediment; short-term hydrodynamics, sediment transport and long-term morphological evolution for Hangzhou Bay are simulated and the underlying physical mechanisms are analyzed. The model reproduces the spatial distribution patterns of suspended sediment concentration (SSC) in Hangzhou Bay, characterized by three high SSC zones and two low SSC zones. It also correctly simulates the residual flow, the residual sediment transport and the sediment accumulation patterns in Hangzhou Bay. The model results are in agreement with previous studies based on field measurements. The residual flow and the residual sediment transport are landwards directed in the northern part of the bay and seawards directed in the southern part. Sediment accumulation takes place in most areas of the bay. Harmonic analysis revealed that the tide is flood-dominant in the northern part of the bay and ebb-dominant in the southern part of the bay. The strength of the flood-dominance increases landwards along the northern Hangzhou Bay. In turn sediment transport in Hangzhou Bay is controlled by this tidal asymmetry pattern. In addition, the direction of tidal propagation in the East China Sea, the presence of the archipelago in the southeast and the funnel-shaped geometry of the bay, play important roles for the patterns of sediment transport and sediment accumulation respectively.  相似文献   

9.
Numerical modeling was used in order to study the effect of tidal currents within a breakwater scheme that has reached morphodynamic equilibrium. Tidal flow is simulated, using a downscaling procedure from a regional numerical model, in order to investigate the small-scale hydrodynamic modifications caused by the structures in the absence of waves. Sediment transport processes at different stages of the neap and spring tidal cycle are also considered over the entire scheme. Significant modifications to the tidal currents were identified, caused by the presence of the following structures: (1) obstruction of the main tidal flow and (2) flow channelization between the structures and the coastline, leading to flow acceleration over the salients. Furthermore, the effect of the modified tidal regime on bedload sediment transport processes was investigated. The design characteristics of the scheme (i.e., gap width, offshore distance, and relative angle with respect to the tidal currents) are found to influence locally the tidal flow and the bedload transport, over the top of the salients, modulating their growth. Despite being located in a mixed-energy, wave-dominated environment, the shear stress ratio between currents and waves show a dominance of tidal processes at the sheltered areas of the scheme (i.e., behind the breakwaters) that diminishes as the incident wave period increases. Hence, in order to correctly predict the morphological evolution of such coast under the influence of coastal protection schemes, the tidal processes have to be studied in addition to the wave processes.  相似文献   

10.
In order to determine wave transformations in an elongated bay, a numerical solution was used to interpret yearlong records of bottom pressure and wind velocity obtained at the mouth and head of Concepción Bay, on the Gulf of California side of the Baja California peninsula. Observed wind waves were predominantly produced by southeastward winds in the winter and north–northwestward winds in the summer. Typical mean wave periods at the bay entrance were between 3 and 5 s. In contrast, the waves at the head of the bay had predominant periods <3 s. The energetic long-period swell waves were dissipated somewhere in the bay as they were not observed at the head of the bay. This study centered in identifying the effects that caused swell waves to attenuate in the bay. The ‘Simulating WAves Nearshore (SWAN)’ model was used to determine the cause for such wave attenuation. Model results showed that swell waves were attenuated because of the combined effects of bottom friction, wave breaking, whitecapping, refraction and wave blocking by the coastline. Most of the attenuation (close to 90%), however, was caused by wave blocking owing to the change of coastline orientation of the bay. This wave blocking mechanism should therefore be explored further in embayments of complex coastline morphology.  相似文献   

11.
Over the past 30 years, reclamation projects and related changes have impacted the hydrodynamics and sediment transport in the Bohai Sea. Three-dimensional tidal current models of the Bohai Sea and the Yellow Sea were constructed using the MIKE 3 model. We used a refined grid to simulate and analyze the effects of changes in coastline, depth, topography, reclamation, the Yellow River estuary, and coastal erosion on tidal systems, tide levels, tidal currents, residual currents, and tidal fluxes. The simulation results show that the relative change in the amplitude of the half-day tide is greater than that of the full-day tide. The changes in the tidal amplitudes of M2, S2, K1, and O1 caused by coastline changes accounted for 27.76–99.07% of the overall change in amplitude from 1987 to 2016, and water depth changes accounted for 0.93–72.24% of the overall change. The dominant factor driving coastline changes is reclamation, accounting for 99.55–99.91% of the amplitude changes in tidal waves, followed by coastal erosion, accounting for 0.05–0.40% of the tidal wave amplitude changes. The contribution of changes in the Yellow River estuary to tidal wave amplitude changes is small, accounting for 0.01–0.12% of the amplitude change factor. The change in the highest tide level (HTL) is mainly related to the amplitude change, and the correlation with the phase change is small. The dominant factor responsible for the change in the HTL is the tide amplitude change in M2, followed by S2, whereas the influence of the K1 and O1 tides on the change in the HTL is small. Reclamation resulted in a decrease in the vertical average maximum flow velocity (VVAM) in the Bohai Sea. Shallower water depths have led to an increase in the VVAM; deeper water depths have led to a decrease in the maximum flow velocity. The absolute value of the maximum flow velocity gradually decreases from the surface to the bottom, but the relative change value is basically constant. The changes in the tidal dynamics of the Bohai Sea are proportional to the degree of change in the coastline. The maximum and minimum changes in the tidal flux appear in Laizhou Bay (P-LZB) and Liaodong Bay (P-LDB), respectively. The changes in the tidal flux are related to the change in the area of the bay. Due to the reduced tidal flux, the water exchange capacity of the Bohai Sea has decreased, impacting the ecological environment of the Bohai Sea. Strictly controlling the scale of reclamation are important measures for reducing the decline in the water exchange capacity of the Bohai Sea and the deterioration of its ecological environment.  相似文献   

12.
Tidal marshes form at the confluence between estuarine and marine environments where tidal movement regulates their developmental processes. Here, we investigate how the interplay between tides, channel morphology, and vegetation affect sediment dynamics in a low energy tidal marsh at the Paul S. Sarbanes Ecosystem Restoration Project at Poplar Island. Poplar Island is an active restoration site where fine-grained material dredged from navigation channels in the upper Chesapeake Bay are being used to restore remote tidal marsh habitat toward the middle bay (Maryland, USA). Tidal currents were measured over multiple tidal cycles in the inlets and tidal creeks of one marsh at Poplar Island, Cell 1B, using Acoustic Doppler Current Profilers (ADCP) to estimate water fluxes throughout the marsh complex. Sediment fluxes were estimated using acoustic backscatter recorded by ADCPs and validated against total suspended solid measurements taken on site. A high-resolution geomorphic survey was conducted to capture channel cross sections and tidal marsh morphology. We integrated simple numerical models built in Delft3d with empirical observations to identify which eco-geomorphological factors influence sediment distribution in various channel configurations with differing vegetative characteristics. Channel morphology influences flood-ebb dominance in marshes, where deep, narrow channels promote high tidal velocities and incision, increasing sediment suspension and reducing resilience in marshes at Poplar Island. Our numerical models suggest that accurately modelling plant phenology is vital for estimating sediment accretion rates. In-situ observations indicate that Poplar Island marshes are experiencing erosion typical for many Chesapeake Bay islands. Peak periods of sediment suspension frequently coincide with the largest outflows of water during ebb tides resulting in large sediment deficits. Ebb dominance (net sediment export) in tidal marshes is likely amplified by sea-level rise and may lower marsh resilience. We couple field observations with numerical models to understand how tidal marsh morphodynamics contribute to marsh resilience. © 2019 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

13.
Understanding sediment sorting and bedding dynamics has high value to unravelling the mechanisms underlying geomorphological, geological, ecological and environmental imprints of tidal wetlands and hence to predicting their future changes. Using the Nanhui tidal flat on the Changjiang (Yangtze) Delta, China, as a reference site, this study establishes a schematized morphodynamic model coupling flow, sediment dynamics and bed level change to explore the processes that govern sediment sorting and bedding phenomena. Model results indicate an overall agreement with field data in terms of tidal current velocities, suspended sediment concentrations (SSCs), deposition thicknesses and sedimentary structures. Depending on the variation of tidal current strength, sand-dominated layers (SDLs) and mud-dominated layers (MDLs) tend to form during spring and neap tides, respectively. Thinner tidal couplets are developed during daily scale flood–ebb variations. A larger tidal level variation during a spring–neap tidal cycle, associated with a stronger tidal current variation, favours the formation of SDLs and tidal couplets. A larger boundary sediment supply generally promotes the formation of tidal bedding, though the bedding detail is partially dependent on the SSC composition of different sediment types. Sediment properties, including for example grain size and settling velocity, are also found to influence sediment sorting and bedding characteristics. In particular, finer and coarser sediment respond differently to spring and neap tides. During neap tides, relatively small flow velocities favour the deposition of finer sediment, with limited coarser sediment being transported to the upper tidal flat because of the larger settling velocity. During spring tides, larger flow velocities transport more coarser sediment to the upper tidal flat, accounting for distinct lamination formation. Model results are qualitatively consistent with field observations, but the role of waves, biological processes and alongshore currents needs to be included in further studies to establish a more complete understanding.  相似文献   

14.
Sediment flux in marsh tidal creeks is commonly used to gauge sediment supply to marshes. We conducted a field investigation of temporal variability in sediment flux in tidal creeks in the accreting tidal marsh at China Camp State Park adjacent to northern San Francisco Bay. Suspended‐sediment concentration (SSC), velocity and depth were measured near the mouths of two tidal creeks during three 6‐ to 10‐week deployments: two in winter and one in summer. Currents, wave properties and SSC were measured in the adjacent shallows. All deployments spanned the largest spring tides of the season. Results show that tidally averaged suspended‐sediment flux (SSF) in the tidal creeks varied from slightly landward to strongly bayward with increasing tidal energy. SSF was negative (bayward) for tidal cycles with maximum water surface elevation above the marsh plain. Export during the largest spring tides dominated the cumulative SSF for each deployment. During ebb tides following the highest tides, velocities exceeded 1 m s?1 in the narrow tidal creeks, resulting in negative tidally averaged water flux, and mobilizing sediment from the creek banks or bed. Storm surge also produced negative SSF. Tidally averaged SSF was positive in wavy conditions with moderate tides. Spring tide sediment export at the creek mouth was about twice that at a station 130 m further up the tidal creek. The negative tidally averaged water flux near the creek mouth during spring tides indicates that in the lower marsh some of the water flooding directly across the bay–marsh interface drains through the tidal creeks, and suggests that this interface may be a pathway for sediment supply to the lower marsh as well. Copyright © 2018 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

15.
The paper addresses the individual and collective contribution of different forcing factors (tides, wind waves, and sea-level rise) to the dynamics of sediment in coastal areas. The results are obtained from simulations with the General Estuarine Transport Model coupled with a sediment transport model. The wave-induced bed shear stress is formulated using a simple model based on the concept that the turbulent kinetic energy (TKE) associated with wind waves is a function of orbital velocity, the latter depending on the wave height and water depth. A theory is presented explaining the controls of sediment dynamics by the TKE produced by tides and wind waves. Several scenarios were developed aiming at revealing possible trends resulting from realistic (observed or expected) changes in sea level and wave magnitude. The simulations demonstrate that these changes not only influence the concentration of sediment, which is very sensitive to the magnitude of the external forcing, but also the temporal variability patterns. The joint effect of tides and wave-induced bed shear stress revealed by the comparison between theoretical results and simulations is well pronounced. The intercomparison between different scenarios demonstrates that the spatial patterns of erosion and deposition are very sensitive to the magnitude of wind waves and sea-level rise. Under a changing climate, forcing the horizontal distribution of sediments adjusts mainly through a change in the balance of export and import of sediment from the intertidal basins. The strongest signal associated with this adjustment is simulated North of the barrier islands where the evolution of sedimentation gives an integrated picture of the processes in tidal basins.  相似文献   

16.
High-frequency flow, pressure and suspended sediment concentration (SSC) measurements are presented from the Paralia-Katerinis coastal area, in Thermaikos Gulf. The data were collected along a cross-shore transect, between the 6 and 12 m water depth contours. The relative importance of wave- and tidally-induced resuspension is examined. Resuspension events are shown to be dominated by wind-generated waves, especially under storm conditions. Some evidence is provided for tidal resuspension, but the overall impact of this process is minimal, compared to wave resuspension. Such resuspension, under storm conditions, increased the SSC levels in the waters of the nearshore zone to 35 mg/l; this is a >15-fold increase over the ambient levels (1–2 mg/l) of turbidity.  相似文献   

17.
Salut-Mengabong Lagoon is located at the west coast of Sabah facing the South China Sea. At the bay side of the main inlet the lagoon splits into Salut and Mengabong Channels. Sediment dynamics at the inlets of the lagoon have recently received considerable attention. But any direct measurement of hydrodynamics and sediment flux are yet to be well documented. This study covers the field measurements of current velocity, water flux, suspended sediment concentration and sediment flux across the three transects (main inlet, Salut entrance and Mengkabong entrance) during typical spring and neap tidal cycles in southwest monsoon and northeast monsoon. Temporal variations and time-averaged values of measured parameters are discussed. The inlets of Salut-Mengkabong Lagoon are found to be ebb-dominated. The time-averaged velocities during spring tidal measurements are found to be higher in the main inlet followed by Mengkabong entrance and Salut entrance. Suspended sediment concentration and sediment fluxes are substantially higher in spring tidal cycles compared to the same in neap tidal cycles. During spring tidal cycles, ebb tidal sediment fluxes are higher than the flood tidal fluxes. The ebb dominated flux across the main inlet led to the large ebb shoal.  相似文献   

18.
We use a hydrodynamic model applied to an idealized fan-shaped basin to explore the morphology and dynamics of radial sand ridges in a convergent coastal system. A positive morphological feedback between channel incision and flow redistribution is responsible for the formation of the channel-ridge pattern. The selection mechanism of bottom wavelength is associated with flow concentration in the deeper part of the channels. Our results are compared to sediment and hydraulic dynamics in the radial sand ridges (RSRs) in China. In a convergent, sloping basin the tangentially averaged tidal velocity peaks at 47 km from the apex. This distance is similar to the arc distance, 62 km, where the RSRs are most incised. An offshore shift in tidal phase results in stronger flows near the north coastline, explaining the presence of asymmetric channel patterns. A numerical stability analysis indicates that small radial oscillations with a wavelength of 10° to 15° maximize the velocity in the troughs. This oscillation wavelength also emerges in the RSRs, which display a peak in spectral energy at a radial wavelength between 25° to 37.5°. High-resolution numerical simulations in the RSRs confirm that flow concentration occurs in the deeper part of the channels, keeping them flushed. We therefore conclude that the RSRs display morphometric characteristics similar to other tidal incisions, like tidal inlets and intertidal channels. This result further supports the dominant role of tidal prism and related peak velocities in incising coastal landscapes. © 2020 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

19.
The southwest coast of England was subjected to an unusually energetic sequence of Atlantic storms during the 2013/2014 winter, with the 8‐week period from mid‐December to mid‐February representing the most energetic period since at least 1953. A regional analysis of the hydrodynamic forcing and morphological response of these storms along the SW coast of England highlighted the importance of both storm‐ and site‐specific conditions. The key factor that controls the Atlantic storm wave conditions along the south coast of southwest England is the storm track. Energetic inshore wave conditions along this coast require a relatively southward storm track which enables offshore waves to propagate up the English Channel relatively unimpeded. The timing of the storm in relation to the tidal stage is also important, and coastal impacts along the macro‐tidal southwest coast of England are maximised when the peak storm waves coincide with spring high tide. The role of storm surge is limited and rarely exceeds 1 m. The geomorphic storm response along the southwest coast of England displayed considerable spatial variability; this is mainly attributed to the embayed nature of the coastline and the associated variability in coastal orientation. On west‐facing beaches typical of the north coast, the westerly Atlantic storm waves approached the coastline shore‐parallel, and the prevailing storm response was offshore sediment transport. Many of these north coast beaches experienced extensive beach and dune erosion, and some of the beaches were completely stripped of sediment, exposing a rocky shore platform. On the south coast, the westerly Atlantic storm waves refract and diffract to become southerly inshore storm waves and for the southeast‐facing beaches this results in large incident wave angles and strong eastward littoral drift. Many south coast beaches exhibited rotation, with the western part of the beaches eroding and the eastern part accreting. © 2015 The Authors. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.  相似文献   

20.
Tidal straining effect on sediment transport dynamics in the Huanghe (Yellow River) estuary was studied by field observations and numerical simulations. The measurement of salinity, suspended sediment concentration, and current velocity was conducted during a flood season in 1995 at the Huanghe river mouth with six fishing boats moored at six stations for 25-h hourly time series observations. Based on the measurements, the intra-tidal variations of sediment transport in the highly turbid river mouth was observed and the tidal straining effect occurred. Our study showed that tidal straining of longitudinal sediment concentration gradients can contribute to intra-tidal variability in sediment stratification and to asymmetries in sediment distribution within a tidal cycle. In particular, the tidal straining effect in the Huanghe River estuary strengthened the sediment-induced stratification at the flood tide, thus producing a higher bottom sediment concentration than that during the ebb. A sediment transport model that is capable of simulating sediment-induced stratification effect on the hydrodynamics in the bottom boundary layers and associated density currents was applied to an idealized estuary to demonstrate the processes and to discuss the mechanism. The model-predicted sediment processes resembled the observed characteristics in the Huanghe River estuary. We concluded that tidal straining effect is an important but poorly understood mechanism in the transport dynamics of cohesive sediments in turbid estuaries and coastal seas.  相似文献   

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