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1.
Reef islands are low‐lying accumulations of unconsolidated sediment formed from the skeletal remains of carbonate‐producing reef organisms and are therefore perceived as highly vulnerable to environmental change. However, basic elements of island composition are not well described and given their high inter‐ and intra‐basinal variability a better understanding of reef and island sedimentary environments (and the connections between them) are needed to predict future morphological response. Here, we use detailed ecological and sedimentological datasets to delineate key sediment production zones and biosedimentary depositional facies across the surface of Vabbinfaru platform, Maldives. Field measurements of platform hydrodynamics are applied to sedimentary deposits to determine the potential mobility of grains and identify transport pathways. Carbonate production was dominated by coral framework (mean: 52%) within a narrow zone on the outer reef rim (22% of platform area) resulting in coral‐rich detrital sediments (reef: 51%, island: 64%) that closely resemble living assemblages. The net transfer of sediment occurred lagoonward by wave‐driven processes leading to a decrease in grain size towards the island (R2 = 0.502) which acts as a major control on depositional facies development within the lagoon. Island sediments were distinct from reefal deposits, comprising a restricted suite of durable sands (mean: 1.34?) throughout long‐term development. Our findings suggest that the production, breakdown and redistribution of coral‐derived sediment by platform currents is fundamental to future island stability at Vabbinfaru, and although alterations away from current ecological states may reduce sediment supply, the timescales over which island morphological response will occur depends upon phase lags between initial coral mortality and the conversion of this material into island‐grade sand. Copyright © 2016 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

2.
Scallop dredging grounds in the Firth of Lorn, western Scotland, are juxtaposed with rocky reef habitats raising concerns that reef communities may be impacted by sediment disturbed by nearby scallop dredging. A particle-tracking model of sediment transport and settling is applied at two scales. In the near-field, a suspension of typical sand/gravel-dominated bed sediment is subjected to a steady current across the dredge track. In the far-field, silt particles, which may persist in suspension for multiple tidal cycles, are tracked in the context of a regional model of tidally-driven flow. The principal sedimentary risk to reef habitats is predicted to come from settling sand particles when dredge tracks approach within tens of metres of a reef. The cumulative effect of dredging at the relatively low intensities recorded in this region is not expected to have a significant long-term impact on suspended silt concentrations and settlement in this highly dispersive environment.  相似文献   

3.
《国际泥沙研究》2019,34(6):591-599
Increasing continental suspended sediment influx to coral reefs is an example of land-sea coupling that requires the identification of sources, magnitude of transport, and controlling processes. In Brazil, a small coastal basin (Macaé River) was identified as a source of suspended sediment to a coral reef on the coast of Cape Armação dos Búzios. Biannual suspended sediment loads were measured at the basin as were fluxes within the estuary and towards the coast during eight tidal cycles. Particle load and yield from this basin were typical of small coastal basins, showing high to moderate slopes and transitional land management. However, the magnitude of the river loads was lower than the sediment transport within the estuary, indicating that the estuary amplifies river fluxes and sustains the transference of suspended sediment alongshore to the coral reef. Nonetheless, the estuary displays both suspended particle retention and export capacity and, therefore, fluxes to the coast and the coral reef occur as episodic events.  相似文献   

4.
Yangshan near-shore sea area is the multi-island and multi-channel area with strong flow velocity and high suspended sediment concentration. Based on the characteristics of tidal currents, waves, and sediment in the Yangshan area, a two-dimensional numerical model of tidal currents, sediment transport, and sea bed deformation is developed. In the model, the effects of tidal currents and wind waves on sediment transport are considered. According to characteristics of the study area, unstructured grids are applied to fit the boundaries of the near-shore sea area. The results show that the calculated values are in good agreement with the measured data. The field of tidal currents, suspended sediment concentrations, and the deformation of the seabed can be successfully simulated.  相似文献   

5.
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6.
A layered-aquifer model of groundwater occurrence in an atoll island was tested with a solute-transport numerical model. The computer model used, SUTRA, incorporates density-dependent flow. This can be significant in freshwater-saltwater interactions associated with the freshwater lens of an atoll island. Boundary conditions for the model included ocean and lagoon tidal variations. The model was calibrated to field data from Enjebi Island, Enewetak Atoll, and tested for sensitivity to a variety of parameters. This resulted in a hydraulic conductivity of 10 m day−1 for the surficial aquifer and 1000 m day−1 for the deeper aquifer; this combination of values gave an excellent reproduction of the tidal response data from test wells. The average salinity distribution was closely reproduced using a dispersivity of 0.02m. The computer simulation quantitatively supports the layered-aquifer model, including under conditions of density-dependent flow, and shows that tidal variations are the predominant driving force for flow beneath the island. The oscillating, vertical flow produced by the tidal variations creates an extensive mixing zone of brackish water. The layered-aquifer model with tidally driven flow is a significant improvement over the Ghyben-Herzberg-Dupuit model as it is conventionally applied to groundwater studies for many Pacific reef islands.  相似文献   

7.
Kodaira  Tsubasa  Waseda  Takuji 《Ocean Dynamics》2019,69(11):1373-1385

The Kuroshio current is well known for generating cold wakes behind islands over Izu Ridge in Northwestern Pacific. Observational data from the geostationary Himawari-8 satellite for 2015–2017 revealed the occurrence of cold waters during the period when the Kuroshio current flows away from the islands. With a focus on tidal currents, this study presents an investigation of dynamical processes responsible for the formation of areas with low sea surface temperature (SST) through the adoption of a high-resolution numerical ocean model for an event that happened in July 2017. Areas with cold water emerged only when tidal currents are included in the numerical model. The model results indicate the cold surface waters are formed in the vicinity of the islands because of upwelling and vertical mixing. Qualitative features of the cold water formation for each island are found to depend on its size, topography, and ambient currents. Near Kozu Island, the tidal excursion is large enough to cause eddy shedding. These shed eddies are stirred by tidal currents to extend the surface cooling effect to wider areas. Near Hachijo Island, a persistent wake is formed by the ambient northward current. Inclusion of tidal currents destabilizes the wake, and consequently leads to the formation of a low SST area, although no clear eddy shedding is detected. The flow patterns around the islands are classified using an additional non-dimensional parameter, defined as the ratio between tidal excursion and island diameter.

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8.
Few hyperpycnal flows have ever been observed in marine environments although they are believed to play a critical role in sediment dispersal within estuarine and deltaic depositional systems. The paper describes hyperpycnal flows observed in situ off the Huanghe (Yellow River) mouth, their relationship to tidal cycles, and the mechanisms that drive them. Simultaneous observations at six mooring stations during a cruise off the Huanghe mouth in the flood season of 1995 suggest that hyperpycnal flows observed at the river mouth are initiated by high concentrations of sediment input from river and modulated by tides. Hyperpycnal flows started near the end of ebb tides, when near‐bottom suspended sediment concentration (SSC) increased rapidly and salinity decreased drastically (an inverse salt wedge). The median grain size of suspended particles within the hyperpycnal layer increased, causing strong stratification of the suspended sediments in the water column. Towards the end of flood tides, the hyperpycnal flow attenuated due to frictions at the upper and lower boundaries of the flow and tidal mixing, which collapsed the stratification of the water column. Both sediment concentration and median grain size of suspended particles within the bottom layer significantly decreased. The coarser sediment particles were deposited and the hyperpycnal flows stopped. The intra‐tidal behaviors of hyperpycnal flows are closely associated with the variations of SSC, salinity, and stratification of the water column. As nearly 90% of riverine sediment is delivered to the sea during the flood seasons when hyperpycnal flows are active, hyperpycnal flows at the Huanghe mouth and the river's high sediment loads have caused rapid accretion of the Huanghe delta. Copyright © 2010 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

9.
Understanding the sources of sediments deposited in tidal flats is critical for reconstructing the evolution of coastal regions impacted by large rivers. Environmental magnetism can be an effective tool to track sediment sources and analyze the sediment properties. We evaluate several magnetic parameters from the tidal flat sediments along the Jiangsu coast. The results show that the sediments of Liandao Island have the lowest values of magnetic susceptibility (χ), anhysteretic remanent magnetization (ARM) and saturation isothermal remanence magnetization (SIRM). In addition to these, the values of χ, ARM and SIRM display a generally increasing trend from the north to the south along the Jiangsu coast. The strong relations between χ, ARM and SIRM show that the changes of magnetization of the tidal flat sediments mainly reflect the changes of concentration rather than those in grain sizes of magnetic particles. The main magnetic phase is magnetite, with a small amount of hematite. The strong relationship between χ and the 2-16 μm grain-size fraction suggests that magnetite is enriched in the finer silt fraction. The sediment sources is the main factor that influences the magnetic properties of the tidal flat sediments from the Jiangsu coast. Combined with the previous studies, the results indicate that the tidal flat sediments of Liandao Island were mainly derived from the nearshore rock weathering. The Yellow River is the dominant supplier for the north of Dafeng, while the Yangtze River is the dominant supplier for the south of Rudong. The coast between Dafeng and Rudong is a transition zone influenced by both rivers. This study provides a basis against which possible future variations in sediment composition resulting from catchment changes can be assessed.  相似文献   

10.
Tidal marshes form at the confluence between estuarine and marine environments where tidal movement regulates their developmental processes. Here, we investigate how the interplay between tides, channel morphology, and vegetation affect sediment dynamics in a low energy tidal marsh at the Paul S. Sarbanes Ecosystem Restoration Project at Poplar Island. Poplar Island is an active restoration site where fine-grained material dredged from navigation channels in the upper Chesapeake Bay are being used to restore remote tidal marsh habitat toward the middle bay (Maryland, USA). Tidal currents were measured over multiple tidal cycles in the inlets and tidal creeks of one marsh at Poplar Island, Cell 1B, using Acoustic Doppler Current Profilers (ADCP) to estimate water fluxes throughout the marsh complex. Sediment fluxes were estimated using acoustic backscatter recorded by ADCPs and validated against total suspended solid measurements taken on site. A high-resolution geomorphic survey was conducted to capture channel cross sections and tidal marsh morphology. We integrated simple numerical models built in Delft3d with empirical observations to identify which eco-geomorphological factors influence sediment distribution in various channel configurations with differing vegetative characteristics. Channel morphology influences flood-ebb dominance in marshes, where deep, narrow channels promote high tidal velocities and incision, increasing sediment suspension and reducing resilience in marshes at Poplar Island. Our numerical models suggest that accurately modelling plant phenology is vital for estimating sediment accretion rates. In-situ observations indicate that Poplar Island marshes are experiencing erosion typical for many Chesapeake Bay islands. Peak periods of sediment suspension frequently coincide with the largest outflows of water during ebb tides resulting in large sediment deficits. Ebb dominance (net sediment export) in tidal marshes is likely amplified by sea-level rise and may lower marsh resilience. We couple field observations with numerical models to understand how tidal marsh morphodynamics contribute to marsh resilience. © 2019 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

11.
This paper describes the details of a quasi-three-dimensional model (3DBANK), which has been developed to investigate medium and long-term morphological evolution and development of offshore sandbanks. The model is based on a three-dimensional tidal module using the Galerkin-eigenfunction method, but also includes four sub-modules to compute: the instantaneous bedform characteristics from which the temporal and spatial variations of the shear stresses at the sea bed can be derived; the suspended sediment concentration through the water column; the bed-load and suspended sediment fluxes at a point-in-plan; and the resulting morphological changes, respectively. The model also includes the effects of the wind and waves at the sea surface, as well as the wave–current interaction (WCI), and operates with full hydrodynamic and morphodynamic interaction. The components of the model were tested against laboratory and field data, and the complete model was then applied to Middlekerke Bank off the Flemish coast where extensive field measurements were taken during the European Community (EC) funded Circulation and Sediment Transport Around Banks (CSTAB) Project using various advanced instrumentation including STABLE and HF OSCR. Comparisons of the model results with the field measurements and observations show that the model is capable of reproducing the current and wave-induced bedforms, bed roughness, tidal currents and tidal residuals around the sandbank satisfactorily, and can be used to study the long-term sandbank evolution under various offshore conditions. This paper, however, focuses on the hydrodynamic aspects of the model, while the details of the morphological components will be given in a companion paper.  相似文献   

12.
Long-term and seasonal geomorphological changes at Padre Island, Texas are identified and linked with potential external drivers. Aerial and satellite images from 1950 to 2018, monthly images from 2019 to 2020, and a 2018 LiDAR data set are used to assess long-term and seasonal geomorphological changes within a 50 km2 area of Padre Island near Port Mansfield, Texas. Trends in landcover are evaluated by mapping and comparing the relative areal coverage of each facies. Vegetated dunes, absent initially, emerged in the fore-island and expanded into the back-barrier to cover 14% of the study area. The active vegetation-free back-barrier dune field steadily decreased in areal extent from 12% to 6% as vegetation spread. Nebkha dune coverage fluctuated between 4% and 7%. Expansive microbial mats colonized the wind tidal and deflation flats surrounding the vegetated dunes and back-barrier dune field giving rise to a remarkably different landscape over the 50-year period studied. An assessment of external forcing factors identifies increased rates of relative sea level rise and decreased sediment influx as the most likely primary factors driving the geomorphological changes. These changes have induced a widespread shift toward stabilization of island sediments by vegetation and microbial mats, which in turn has starved the back-barrier of sediments resulting in low rates of accretion and increased flooding. These findings highlight the sensitivity of the back-barrier and, in particular, the dune facies to changes in sea level and sediment supply, and show that microbial mats are effective at stabilizing island sediments and may be harbingers to barrier island response to rising sea level. As shown in this study, long-term monitoring of geomorphic facies changes and topography can detect important shifts in the island state that can be used to inform decision making for these sensitive coastal landscapes.  相似文献   

13.
Tidal straining effect on sediment transport dynamics in the Huanghe (Yellow River) estuary was studied by field observations and numerical simulations. The measurement of salinity, suspended sediment concentration, and current velocity was conducted during a flood season in 1995 at the Huanghe river mouth with six fishing boats moored at six stations for 25-h hourly time series observations. Based on the measurements, the intra-tidal variations of sediment transport in the highly turbid river mouth was observed and the tidal straining effect occurred. Our study showed that tidal straining of longitudinal sediment concentration gradients can contribute to intra-tidal variability in sediment stratification and to asymmetries in sediment distribution within a tidal cycle. In particular, the tidal straining effect in the Huanghe River estuary strengthened the sediment-induced stratification at the flood tide, thus producing a higher bottom sediment concentration than that during the ebb. A sediment transport model that is capable of simulating sediment-induced stratification effect on the hydrodynamics in the bottom boundary layers and associated density currents was applied to an idealized estuary to demonstrate the processes and to discuss the mechanism. The model-predicted sediment processes resembled the observed characteristics in the Huanghe River estuary. We concluded that tidal straining effect is an important but poorly understood mechanism in the transport dynamics of cohesive sediments in turbid estuaries and coastal seas.  相似文献   

14.
We analyzed sea level data from a set of tide gauge stations located in the central and western Mediterranean Sea, that recorded the tsunami generated by the Mw 6.8 Boumerdès earthquake striking the coast of Algeria on May 21, 2003. This earthquake caused more than 2200 victims and thousands of injured. The causative fault was located a few kilometers offshore and during the rupture a tsunami was triggered. Waves were felt along a large part of the western and northern Mediterranean coasts, and in the Balearic islands waves higher that 2 m were measured. In this paper we analyze a more complete tidal data set, with respect to previous studies, now consisting of 22 tidal stations located in Italy, France and Spain. To characterize the change of the tidal signal at each station we used the Empirical Mode Decomposition (EMD). By means of this technique, which is suitable to analyze and to characterize the dynamical behavior of non-stationary time series, we provide a precise measurement of the arrival times and amplitudes at the tidal stations and identify how this tsunami affected the principal and long term tidal components. Our findings improve previous results for this earthquake, since they allow the detection of significant amplitude fluctuations associated with the tsunami in the majority of stations, including the farthest ones.  相似文献   

15.
A two-dimensional finite element model for density dependent groundwater flow was calibrated to simulate sea water intrusion in Nauru Island in the Central Pacific Ocean. Nauru Island occupies an area of 22 km2 and supports a population of 8500. The island has been mined for its phosphate deposits and current reserves indicate that the mine has about eight years life remaining. The water supply of the island is about one third dependent on imported water which is also used as ballast on the phosphate ships. Imported water will not be available in the future, and a hydrogeological investigation shows that the island is underlain by a fresh water layer, less than 5 m thick. The freshwater layer overlies a thick transition zone of brackish water which in turn overlies sea water. Simulation of several management options shows that it is possible to substitute current importation of fresh water by careful extraction from the groundwater resources of the island.  相似文献   

16.
The geomorphology of the southern Yellow Sea（SYS） is characterized by offshore radial sand ridges（RSR）.An offshore tidal channel（KSY Channel） is located perpendicular to the coast,comprised of a main and a tributary channel separated by a submarine sand ridge（KSY Sand Ridge） extending seaward.In order to investigate the interactions among water flow,sediment transport,and topography,current velocity and suspended sediment concentration（SSC） were observed at 11 anchor stations along KSY Channel in RSR during a spring tide cycle.High resolution bottom topography was also surveyed.Residual currents and tidally averaged suspended sediment fluxes were calculated and analyzed by using the decomposition method.Results suggested that the water currents became stronger landward but with asymmetrical current speed and temporal duration of flood and ebb tides.Residual currents showed landward water transport in the nearshore channel and a clockwise circulation around the KSY Sand Ridge.Tidally-averaged SSC also increased landward along the channel.The main mechanisms controlling SSC variations were resuspension and horizontal advection,with spatial and temporal variations in the channel,which also contributed to sediment redistribution between channels and sand ridges.Residual flow transport and the tidal pumping effect dominated the suspended sediment flux in the KSY Channel.The KSY Sand Ridge had a potential southward migration due to the interaction between water flow,sediment transport,and topography.  相似文献   

17.
The response of the Yalu River Estuary to human activities was investigated.Changes of sediment dynamics during the past 10 years were explored through hydrodynamic calculation,as well as heavy mineral...  相似文献   

18.
Kaoru  Sugihara  Naoto  Masunaga  Kazuhiko  Fujita 《Island Arc》2006,15(4):437-454
Abstract The taxonomic diversity of hermatypic corals decreases with increasing latitude, which correlates with sea‐surface temperatures. However, little is known about latitudinal changes in the taxonomic diversity and biogeographic patterns of larger benthic foraminifera, although their physiological requirements are similar to those of hermatypic corals because of their symbiotic relationships with microalgae. The present study examined how the abundance and taxonomic composition of larger foraminiferal assemblages in shallow‐water reef sediments change with latitude along the Ryukyu Islands (Ryukyus), which are located near the northern limit of coral‐reef distributions in the western Pacific Ocean. Three islands from different latitudes in the Ryukyus were selected to investigate latitudinal changes in larger foraminiferal assemblages: Ishigaki Island (24°20′N, 124°10′E), Kudaka Island (26°09′N, 127°54′E) and Tane‐ga‐shima Island (30°20′N, 131°E). Four sediment samples were taken at each of three topographic sites (beach, shallow lagoon and reef crest) on the reef flat of each island. Foraminiferal tests of a 2.0‐ to 0.5‐mm size fraction were selected, identified and counted. The variations in foraminiferal abundance in reef sediments from three latitudinally different islands exhibit two contrasting trends along reef flats: a shoreward decrease on Ishigaki and Tane‐ga‐shima Islands and a shoreward increase on Kudaka Island. A total of 25, 24 and 13 foraminiferal taxa were identified in Ishigaki, Kudaka and Tane‐ga‐shima Islands, respectively. Baculogypsina sphaerulata, Neorotalia calcar and Amphistegina spp. were dominant (i.e. >3% of foraminiferal assemblages) in the three islands. Calcarina gaudichaudii and Calcarina hispida were common on Ishigaki and Kudaka Islands but were absent on Tane‐ga‐shima Island. Larger foraminiferal assemblages from three different reef‐flat environments on Ishigaki Island can be distinguished, whereas those from the three environments on Kudaka and Tane‐ga‐shima Islands are similar in composition. These latitudinal changes in larger foraminiferal assemblages in reef sediments may possibly be caused by variations in the topography of reef flats, distributions and standing crops of living foraminifers on reef flats, and the northern limit of some calcarinid species in the northern Ryukyus.  相似文献   

19.
Six reef sites were chosen along the west coast of the southern islands of Singapore, at an increasing distance from the densely populated metropolitan area, to study the spatial patterns of coral reef communities on the upper reef slope ( approximately 4m) and the associated environmental conditions. Chronic exposure to high sediment load was the most obvious form of anthropogenic stress. Recruitment rates on ceramic tiles were low (1.4+/-1.0-20+/-14.7 recruits m(-2) yr(-1)) but decreased towards the main island of Singapore as did hard coral cover and coral density. Coral fauna consisted of genera generally found in deeper waters (e.g., fungiids, foliose Oxypora, Leptoseris, and Echinopora) or those well-adapted to turbid waters (e.g., Porites, Pectinia, Leptastrea, Montipora). Light extinction coefficient (K) and % live coral cover (%LCC) showed a strong and inverse curvilinear relationship (%LCC=13.60 *K(-3.40)). Similarly, the rate of sediment deposition (DFSPM) (RR=1.51-0.17 *DFSPM) and water clarity (RR=3.56-2.92 *K) exhibited strong and inverse relationships with recruitment rates (RR). Although measured levels of the downward flux of suspended particulate matter and suspended solids were well within "normal" levels recorded in the literature, it was the proportion of benthic space, generic coral composition, and site history that offered compelling evidence of chronic exposure to increased sediment load. Clearly a reduction in both water clarity and live-coral cover has taken place since monitoring efforts began in the early 1970s, in fact coral cover has more than halved at all sites examined since the 1980s and benthic space was predominantly occupied by dead corals covered with sediment and filamentous algae.  相似文献   

20.
Six reef sites were chosen along the west coasts of Singapore's southern islands, to: (1) quantitatively assess and compare coral community composition and structure, and recruitment rates, (2) assess the relationship between the aforementioned patterns and the environmental conditions, and (3) provide insights on potential processes that incorporate history at these study sites. Chronic exposure to high sediment load was the most obvious form of anthropogenic stress. Recruitment rates on ceramic tiles were low (1.4+/-1.0-20+/-14.7 recruits m(-2)year(-1)) but decreased towards the main island of Singapore as did hard coral cover and coral density. Coral fauna consisted of genera generally found in deeper waters (e.g., fungiids, foliose Oxypora, Leptoseris, and Echinopora) or those well adapted to turbid waters (e.g., Porites, Pectinia, Leptastrea, Montipora). Light extinction coefficient (K) and % live coral cover (%LCC) showed a strong and inverse curvilinear relationship (%LCC=13.60 *K(-3.40)). Similarly, the rate of sediment deposition (DFSPM) (Recruitment rate, RR=1.51-0.17 *DFSPM) and water clarity (RR=3.56-2.92 *K) exhibited strong and inverse relationships with recruitment rates. Although measured levels of the down-ward flux of suspended particulate matter and suspended solids were well within "normal" levels recorded in the literature, it was the proportion of benthic space, generic coral composition, and site history that offered compelling evidence of chronic exposure to increased sediment load. Clearly a reduction in both water clarity and live-coral cover has taken place since monitoring efforts began in the early 1970s, in fact coral cover has more than halved at all sites examined since the 1980s and benthic space was predominantly occupied by dead corals covered with sediment and filamentous algae.  相似文献   

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