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1.
The Isle of Usedom is located in the South of the Baltic Sea on the border between Poland and Germany. The Streckelsberg is midway along the coastline of the island. The cliff coast area is extremely exposed to waves.Coastal protection works have been carried out here for the last 100 years, starting in 1895 with the construction of a revetment. All efforts could not solve the erosion problems in the long-term. Therefore, it was decided to install a new system of coastal protection measures in 1994. The conceptional design includes a system of three offshore breakwaters in combination with a beach nourishment system. To minimize downdrift erosion a groyne scheme will be additionally installed.The aim of the offshore breakwaters is to reduce the wave energy transformed into the sheltered area and to consequently reduce the longshore sediment transport. It is expected to support the natural development of a salient which will form the main part of the complete coastal protection system.  相似文献   

2.
Summary The paper focuses on the applicability of simple optimizing methods to determining the aerosol structure based on the measured values of the spectral optical thickness of aerosol δ(λ). The necessary conditions leading to a stable solution are assessed. By applying the particle distribution function in the form of summations of modified gamma functions we obtain the simple form of δ(λ). It is not suitable for proving Gaussian functions. The application of approximate methods to determine the aerosol structure from spectral optical thickness of atmospheric aerosol is based on measurements of the direct spectral solar radiation flux density which formed a part of the radiation experiment conducted in Zingst (Germany) on the coast of the Baltic Sea in 1987. on leave from the Astronomical Institute, Slovak Academy of Sciences  相似文献   

3.
In order to determine wave transformations in an elongated bay, a numerical solution was used to interpret yearlong records of bottom pressure and wind velocity obtained at the mouth and head of Concepción Bay, on the Gulf of California side of the Baja California peninsula. Observed wind waves were predominantly produced by southeastward winds in the winter and north–northwestward winds in the summer. Typical mean wave periods at the bay entrance were between 3 and 5 s. In contrast, the waves at the head of the bay had predominant periods <3 s. The energetic long-period swell waves were dissipated somewhere in the bay as they were not observed at the head of the bay. This study centered in identifying the effects that caused swell waves to attenuate in the bay. The ‘Simulating WAves Nearshore (SWAN)’ model was used to determine the cause for such wave attenuation. Model results showed that swell waves were attenuated because of the combined effects of bottom friction, wave breaking, whitecapping, refraction and wave blocking by the coastline. Most of the attenuation (close to 90%), however, was caused by wave blocking owing to the change of coastline orientation of the bay. This wave blocking mechanism should therefore be explored further in embayments of complex coastline morphology.  相似文献   

4.
Erosion due to waves is an important and actual problem for most coastal areas of the North Sea. The objective of this study was to estimate the impact of wave action on the coastline of Sylt Island. From a 2-year time series (November 1999 to October 2001) of hydrological and wave parameters generated with a coupled wave–current modelling system, a period comprising storm ‘Anatol’ (3–4 December 1999) is used to investigate the effects of waves on currents and water levels and the input of wave energy into the coastline. The wave-induced stress causes an increase of the current velocity of 1 m/s over sand and an additional drift along the coast of about 20 cm/s. This produces a water level increase of more than 20 cm in parts of the tidal basin. The model system also calculates the wave energy input into the coastline. Scenario runs for December 1999 with a water level increase of 50 cm and wind velocity increased by 10% show that the input of the wave energy into the west coast of Sylt Island increases by 30% compared to present conditions. With regard to the forecasted near-future (Woth et al., Ocean Dyn 56:3–15, 2006) increase of strong storm surges, the scenario results indicate an increased risk of coastal erosion in the surf zone of Sylt Island.  相似文献   

5.
The paper presents a theoretical study to explain the regular occurrence of a cold water upwelling cell at the southern east coast of the Gotland island in the central Baltic Sea. While for a circular island up- and downwelling patterns would rotate around the island, the responses around the elongated Gotland island with narrow tips at its southern and northern ends are different. The study uses the example of the response of a coastal ocean to a wind band to develop an understanding of important aspects of generation of Kelvin waves and how the waves change the response patterns.  相似文献   

6.
In order to investigate the velocity structure of the southern part of the Korean peninsula, seismic refraction profiles were obtained along a 294-km WNW-ESE line and a 335-km NNW-SSE line in 2002 and 2004, respectively. Seismic waves were generated by detonating 500–1000 kg explosives in drill holes at depths of 80–150 m. The seismic signals were recorded by portable seismometers at nominal intervals of 1.5–1.7 km. Separate velocity tomograms were derived from first arrival times using a series expansion method of travel-time inversion. The raypaths indicate several mid-crust interfaces including those at approximate depths of 2–3, 15–17, and 22 km. The Moho discontinuity with refraction velocity of 7.8 to 8.4 km/s has a maximum depth of 37–39 km under the southern central portion of the peninsula. The Moho becomes shallower as the Yellow Sea and the East Sea are approached on the west and east coasts of the peninsula, respectively. The depth of the 7.6 km/s velocity contour varies from 29.4 km to 36.5 km. The discrepancy in depth between the seismological Moho and the interpreted critically refracting interface may result from the presence of a gradual transition between the crust and mantle. The velocity tomograms show particular crustal structures including (1) the existence of an over 70-km wide low-velocity zone centered at 6–7 km depth under the Okchon fold belt and Ryeongnam massif, (2) existence of high-velocity materials under the Gyeongsang basin, and (3) the downward extension of the Yeongdong fault to depths greater than 10 km.  相似文献   

7.
Recent climate change projections suggest that negative impacts on flood control and water supply functions and on existing and future ecosystem restoration projects in south Florida are possible. An analysis of historical rainfall and temperature data of the Florida peninsula indicates that there were no discernible trends in both the long-term record and during the more recent period (1950–2007). A comparison of General Circulation Model (GCM) results for the 20th century with the historical data shows that many of the GCMs do not capture the statistical characteristics of regional rainfall and temperature regimes in south Florida. Investigation of historical sea level data at Key West finds evidence for an increase in the occurrence and variance of maximum sea level events for the period 1961–2008 in relation to 1913–1960, along with a shift of energy from shorter to longer timescales. In order to understand the vulnerability of the water management system in south Florida in response to changing precipitation and evapotranspiration forcing, a sensitivity analysis using a regional-scale hydrologic and water management model is conducted. Model results suggest that projected climate change has potential to reduce the effectiveness of water supply and flood control operations for all water sectors. These findings emphasize that questions on the potential impacts of climate change need to be investigated with particular attention paid to the uncertainties of such projections.  相似文献   

8.
Long-term time-dependent stochastic modelling of extreme waves   总被引：4，自引：3，他引：1  
This paper presents a literature survey on time-dependent statistical modelling of extreme waves and sea states. The focus is twofold: on statistical modelling of extreme waves and space- and time-dependent statistical modelling. The first part will consist of a literature review of statistical modelling of extreme waves and wave parameters, most notably on the modelling of extreme significant wave height. The second part will focus on statistical modelling of time- and space-dependent variables in a more general sense, and will focus on the methodology and models used also in other relevant application areas. It was found that limited effort has been put on developing statistical models for waves incorporating spatial and long-term temporal variability and it is suggested that model improvements could be achieved by adopting approaches from other application areas. In particular, Bayesian hierarchical space–time models were identified as promising tools for spatio-temporal modelling of extreme waves. Finally, a review of projections of future extreme wave climate is presented.  相似文献   

9.
The spatiotemporal manifestations of seismicity in the Andaman-Sumatra island arc are studied using the instrumental data for 1900–2010. The data on the largest tsunamigenic earthquakes of the 18th–19th centuries were also taken into account. The epicenters of the earthquakes are established to cluster in some areas; their possible relation to the structural features of the island arc is considered. A distinctive feature of seismicity in the region of the Andaman Sea is the presence of compact swarms of numerous earthquakes occurring during short intervals of time. The distribution of the earthquakes by the depth of their hypocenters in different segments of the island arc is investigated. The focal mechanisms of the earthquakes are analyzed using the centroid-moment-tensor (CMT) determinations over the period of 1980–2004, and the characteristic features of their parameters in different segments of the Andaman-Sumatra island arc are formulated. The focal parameters of the earthquakes determined by CMT and the moment-tensor-solution (MTS) are compared; the possible uncertainty in the estimates of the focal mechanisms is assessed. The pattern of the spatiotemporal manifestations of the Andaman-Sumatra earthquakes and their focal mechanisms are compared to the data on the Kuril-Kamchatka and the Aleutian island arcs previously studied by the authors. The results of analyzing the long-term seismicity and focal mechanisms in the Andaman-Sumatra island arc provide a necessary basis for the further thorough investigation of the geological conditions and source parameters of the major Sumatra earthquakes of 2000–2010.  相似文献   

10.
The main objective of this paper is to address the principal mechanisms involved in the medium-term (order of months to years) morphodynamic evolution of estuaries through the application of a process-based numerical modelling. The Teign estuary (Teignmouth, UK) is the selected site. The system is forced by the macrotidal semi-diurnal tide in the English Channel and is perturbed to a minor extent by high river discharge events (freshets). Although waves have a definite influence on the adjacent coastal area, Wells (Teignmouth Quay Development Environmental Statement: Changes to Physical Processes. Report R.984c:140. ABP Marine Environmental Research Ltd., Southampton, 2002b) suggested that swell waves do not enter the estuary. Hence, wave effects are neglected in this study, as only tides and the river discharge are taken into account. The sediment grain size is highly variable, but mainly sandy. Within the frame of the COAST3D project (), four bathymetric surveys of the adjacent coastal area were carried out at a nearly weekly intervals. The outer estuary and the adjacent coastal area were also surveyed every 6 months as part of the COASTVIEW project (). Based on these data and on continuously measured parameters, such as water level, waves, wind and river discharge, numerical modelling of the morphodynamic processes can be tested. To replicate the morphological changes in the medium-term within a feasible simulation time, forcing conditions are reduced through the use of an input reduction method (called ensemble technique). In this study, simulations are based on the coupling between Telemac-2D and its non-cohesive sediment transport module, Sisyphe (version 5.3 for both modules). Three different sediment transport formulae were tested: (1) Engelund and Hansen (A monograph on sediment transport in alluvial streams, 3rd edn. Technological University of Denmark, Copenhagen, 1967) including the modifications proposed by Chollet and Cunge (J Hydraul Eng 17(1):1–13, 1979); (2) Bijker (Mechanics of sediment transport by the combination of waves and current. In: Design and reliability of coastal structures. 23rd international conference on Coastal Engineering, pp 147–173, 1968) and (3) Soulsby (Dynamics of Marine Sands. A manual for practical applications. HR Wallingford, Wallingford, p 142, 1997) modified version of van Rijn [J Hydraul Eng 110(10):1431–1456, 1984a, J Hydraul Eng 110(11):1613–1641, 1984b] formulation. Both a qualitative (i.e. visual comparison) and a quantitative tool [Brier Skill Score (BSS); described in Sutherland et al. in Coast Eng 51:917–939, 2004b] are applied to assess the similarity of simulations when compared to model predictions and observations. Tests confirmed the reliability and time efficiency of the ensemble technique, since it reproduced very well the results of a reference run, a computation based on the observed boundary conditions. For the spring-neap cycle modelled, the BSS was of 0.91 (a perfect modelling would have a BSS of 1), with a reduction in the simulation time on the order of 80%. For the 6-month-period simulation, results were also excellent: BSS=0.92 and a computer time reduction of 85%. In principle, this method has the advantage of being applied to any process-based numerical model.  相似文献   

11.
The spatial and temporal distribution of marine geophysical surveys   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  
We examine how bathymetric mapping coverage varies with distance from the coastline, here a proxy for the effort involved in collecting the data. Distances to the nearest coastline were evaluated on a 1′ × 1′ global grid. We evaluate the density of marine survey track lines, which falls off with increasing distance from the coastline and drops off precipitously for the most remote regions. Bathymetric coverage shows a marked asymmetry between the southern and northern hemispheres, the latter having a factor of 2–4 denser coverage. We find a rapid decrease in data acquisition for previously unexplored regions beginning in 1973–1975. This rate change may reflect a transition from serendipitous exploration to more targeted investigations as the plate tectonics hypothesis became accepted, but it could also reflect the 1970s oil shocks. Coverage of the seafloor varies logarithmically with mapping resolution. At 0.5° resolution, only ∼60% of the seafloor has been mapped; the 50% mark was reached in 1979 and coverage of unexplored seafloor has since been less rapid. For comparison, at 1′ resolution less than 10% of the seafloor has been mapped. Given rising fuel costs we predict the most remote areas will see a decline in future surveys. Better coordination of exploration among agencies and nations could mitigate this concern and improve global coverage, as could future altimetric mapping dedicated to bathymetric prediction.  相似文献   

12.
An idealized model is developed and analyzed to investigate the relevance of tidal motion for the emergence of undulations of a sandy coastline. The model describes feedbacks between tidal and steady flow on the inner shelf, sand transport in the nearshore zone and an irregular coastline. It is demonstrated that an initially straight coastline can become unstable with respect to perturbations with a rhythmic structure in the alongshore direction. The mechanism causing the growth of these perturbations is explained in terms of vorticity concepts. The relative importance of tide-related and wave-driven sediment fluxes in generating undulations of the coastline is investigated for the Dutch coast. Using parameter values that are appropriate for the Dutch coast it is found that tides can render a straight coastline unstable. The model predicts a fastest growing mode (FGM) with a wavelength that is in the order of the observed length of barrier islands. The mode grows on a time scale of 50 yr and it migrates 200 m per year. The wavelength of the FGM decreases with increasing amplitude of the tidal currents. This result is consistent with data of tides, waves and the lengths of barrier islands that are located along the Dutch and German Wadden coast.  相似文献   

13.
The objective of the study presented in this paper is to investigate the predictive capabilities of a process-based sand–mud model in a quantitative way. This recently developed sand–mud model bridges the gap between noncohesive sand models and cohesive mud models. It explicitly takes into account the interaction between these two sediment fractions and temporal and spatial bed composition changes in the sediment bed [Van Ledden (2002) 5:577–594, Van Ledden et al. (2004a) 24:1–11, Van Ledden et al. (2004b) 54:385–391]. The application of this model to idealized situations has demonstrated a good qualitative agreement between observed and computed bed levels and bed composition developments. However, in real-life situations, a realistic quantitative prediction of the magnitude and timescale of this response is important to assess the short-term and long-term impacts of human interventions and/or natural changes. For this purpose, the Friesche Zeegat in the Wadden Sea (the Netherlands) is used as a reference to hindcast the morphological response in the period 1970–1994. Due to the closure of the Lauwerszee in 1969, the tidal prism of this tidal basin was reduced by about 30%. Significant changes in the bed level and bed composition have occurred in the decades following the closure to adjust to the new hydrodynamic conditions. We modeled the long-term bed level and bed composition development in the Friesche Zeegat in the period 1970–1994 starting with the geometry of 1970 by using a research version of Delft3D, which incorporates the sand–mud formulations proposed by [Van Ledden (2002) 5:577–594].The computed total net deposition in the tidal basin in the period 1970–1994 agrees well with the observations, but the observed decrease of the import rate with time is not predicted. The model predicts net deposition in the deeper parts and at the intertidal area in the basin and net erosion in between, which resembles the observations qualitatively. Furthermore, the computed distribution of sand and mud in the basin of the Friesche Zeegat appears to be realistic. Analysis of the results shows that the absence of the decreasing import rate in the basin is caused by a poor quantitative prediction of the changes in the hypsometry of the basin. Because of this, the computed velocity asymmetry in the main channel tends toward flood dominance, whereas the observations indicate that the system is ebb-dominant in 1992. Although the sand–mud model needs to be further improved and verified, the results presented in this paper indicate that the model can be applied as a first step to estimate the effects of human interventions on the large-scale bed level and bed composition changes in tidal systems with sand and mud.  相似文献   

14.
Comparative studies of short-term ionospheric variability in the F region ionosphere during rapid sequence sounding campaign “HIRAC/SolarMax” (23–29 April 2001) are presented. The ionospheric short-term fluctuations have been studied in detail using measurements from vertical sounding at Ebro (40.8 °N, 0.5 ° E) and Průhonice (49.9 °N, 14.5 °E) in the period range from 15 minutes to 2 hours. The electron density measurements contain variations that indicate the possible presence of propagating gravity waves. Regular wave-like bursts were found during quiet days at both stations in electron concentration in F region, with an increase of the oscillation activity after sunrise and then during late afternoon, and at sunset and after sunset. Solar Terminator is assumed to be one of the sources of the regular wave bursts detected in the ionosphere during campaign HIRAC. As expected, substantial intensification in longer period gravity waves was found to occur during the disturbed period on April 28. Particular enhancement of the wave-like activity during disturbed day is discussed, being significant evidences of a change of the wave-like activity pattern at a height around 200 km.  相似文献   

15.
The potential of long ship-induced waves to serve as a physical model for tsunami waves (called simply tsunami below) is examined. Such waves (wavelengths more than 200 m at depths down to 10–20 m) are induced by high-speed ferries sailing at near-critical speeds in semisheltered, relatively shallow areas. It is shown based on experience from Tallinn Bay, Baltic Sea, that for many aspects these waves can model nearshore dynamics and runup of tsunami caused by landslides, including processes of wave refraction, diffraction, and sea-bottom interaction in bays and harbors. Many governing nondimensional parameters (such as the nonlinearity, dispersion, Reynolds and Ursell numbers, surf similarity parameter, breaking parameter, etc.) of the largest ship waves and landslide tsunamis have the same order of magnitude. It is especially important that use of ship waves for wave propagation and runup studies allows their spatial structure to be accounted for adequately. Near-critical ship waves can therefore be used as a natural substitute for tsunami, for study under controlled and safe conditions.  相似文献   

16.
Climate change and resultant coastal erosion and flooding have been the focus of many recent analyses. Often these studies overlook the effects of manmade modifications to the coastline which have reduced its resilience to storm events. In this investigation, we integrate previous reports, historical photo analysis, field work, and the application of numerical models to better understand the effects of Wilma, the most destructive hurricane to affect Cancun, Mexico. Huge waves (of significant height, >12 m), long mean wave periods (>12 s), devastating winds (>250 km/h), and powerful currents (>2 m/s) removed >7 million cubic meters of sand from the Cancun beach system, leaving 68% of the sub‐aerial beach as bedrock, and the rest considerably eroded. Numerical simulations show that the modifications to the barrier island imposed by tourist infrastructure have considerably increased the rigidity of the system, increasing the potential erosion of the beach under extreme conditions. If there were no structural barriers, a series of breaches could occur along the beach, allowing exchange of water and alleviating storm surge on other sections of the beach. If the effects caused by anthropogenic changes to Cancun are ignored, the analysis is inaccurate and misleading.  相似文献   

17.
Using an electromagnetic analogue model, the behavior of time-varying electromagnetic fields for an island near a continental coastline is examined for the H-polarization case, in which the electric field of the inducing source is perpendicular to the continental coastline. A study of the effect of the shape of the island, using square- and circular-island models, indicates that over the island, anomalies in the field components are confined to a smaller area for the circular island than for the square island. A study of the effect of ocean-channel width between the island and continent shows that, as the channel width decreases, anomalies in the magnetic field components over the island decrease. The anomaly in the electric field at the continental coastline first increases and then decreases with decreasing channel width.  相似文献   

18.
Regional ocean models usually utilize orthogonal curvilinear grids that are fit to the coastline of the modeled regions. While the orthogonality of the grid is required from the perspective of the numerical algorithms, the alignment to the irregular coastlines improves the characterization of the land-sea distribution and the ocean simulation. In this article, we carry out fractal analysis of two representative coastal regions and discuss the trade-offs between the orthogonality and coastline alignment during the grid generation of these regions. A new grid generation method based on Schwarz-Christoffel conformal mappings is proposed, with automatic coastal boundary retrieval algorithm that generates resolution dependent boundary for grid generation and alleviates the human efforts involved in traditional methods. We show that for the southeastern Pacific region, the coastline is smooth with low fractal dimension and there exists effective trade-off with a coastline boundary that adjusts to the desired grid resolution. On the contrary, there is no effective trade-off for southeast China seas where the coastline is of higher fractal dimension, and a coarser coastline boundary is recommended for better orthogonality with little loss in coastline alignment. Further numerical study of coastal trapped Kelvin waves for the typical regions demonstrate that the new coastline-fitting grids achieve smaller error in numerical dispersion and higher accuracy. Through analysis, we conclude that for grid generation for regional ocean modeling, modelers should bring into consideration of the multi-scale fractal characteristics of the coastline.  相似文献   

19.
This work presents the first exhaustive study of the entire surface of the Reunion Island volcanic system. The focus is on the submarine part, for which a compilation of all multibeam data collected during the last 20 years has been made. Different types of submarine features have been identified: a coastal shelf, debris avalanches and sedimentary deposits, erosion canyons, volcanic constructions near the coast, and seamounts offshore. Criteria have been defined to differentiate the types of surfaces and to establish their relative chronology where possible. Debris avalanche deposits are by far the most extensive and voluminous formations in the submarine domain. They have built four huge Submarine Bulges to the east, north, west, and south of the island. They form fans 20–30 km wide at the coastline and 100–150 km wide at their ends, 70–80 km offshore. They were built gradually by the superimposition and/or juxtaposition of products moved during landslide episodes, involving up to several hundred cubic kilometers of material. About 50 individual events deposits can be recognized at the surface. The landslides have recurrently dismantled Piton des Neiges, Les Alizés, and Piton de La Fournaise volcanoes since 2 Ma. About one third are interpreted as secondary landslides, affecting previously emplaced debris avalanche deposits. On land, landslide deposits are observed in the extensively eroded central area of Piton des Neiges and in its coastal areas. Analysis of the present-day topography and of geology allows us to identify presumed faults and scars of previous large landslides. The Submarine Bulges are dissected and bound by canyons up to 200 m deep and 40 km long, filled with coarse-grained sediments, and generally connected to streams onshore. A large zone of sedimentary accumulation exists to the north–east of the island. It covers a zone 20 km in width, extending up to 15 km offshore. Volcanic constructions are observed near the coast on both Piton des Neiges and Piton de la Fournaise volcanoes and are continuations of subaerial structures. Individual seamounts are present on the submarine flanks and the surrounding ocean floor. A few seem to be young volcanoes, but the majority are probably old, eroded seamounts. This study suggests a larger scale and frequency of mass-wasting events on Reunion Island compared to similar islands. The virtual absence of downward flexure of the lithosphere beneath the island probably contributes to this feature. The increased number of known flank–failure events has to be taken into consideration when assessing hazards from future landslides, in particular, the probability of landslide-generated tsunamis. Electronic supplementary material The online version of this article (doi:) contains supplementary material, which is available to authorized users.  相似文献   

20.
We consider the identification and diagnostics of active and potentially active volcanic features (regional zones of cinder cones, fields sheet volcanism, fields of concentrated multivent extrusive volcanism, calderas, and underwater eruption centers in the sea) in the Kuril-Kamchatka island arc and in the Commander Islands link of the Aleutian island arc, as well as the condition of this region as of late 2007. We have identified and examined three periods in the research of active and potentially active volcanic features in the region: the early (1697–1934), the new (1935–1962), and the most recent, still in progress (1963 until today). We provide a new definition of the term “active volcano,” which is scientifically well-grounded, for the first time here. We present modified (compared with those available until now) catalogs of active and potentially active volcanic forms in Kamchatka and the Kuril Islands. For typical multieruption volcanoes now in phase I (the active) and II (the passive) of their evolution, we provide long-term forecasts of the character and parameters of future eruptions and the associated volcanic hazard.  相似文献   

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