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1.
In the upper Chesapeake Bay (Maryland, U.S.A.) field surveys were conducted at 18 multiple longshore sand bar sites. The multiple bar systems were found in water depths less than approximately 2 m (mean sea level), and exhibited mild bottom slopes of 0·0052 or less. The number of bars composing each system ranged from four to 17 and the spacing between the crests typically increased in the offshore direction, ranging from 12 to 70 m. Bar height also typically increased with distance offshore and ranged from 0·03 to 0·61 m. A grain size analysis of crest and trough sediment did not reveal any significant differences and the sediment was categorized as ‘fine sand’. A review of the literature data indicated that the Chesapeake Bay multiple bars possessed similar characteristics to those found in Gelding Bay (Baltic Sea); similarities in fetch, wave height and tidal range between the two bays may account for this finding. The surf-scaling parameter indicated that the multiple bar systems were extremely dissipative with regard to wave energy, and wave height appeared to be an important factor in controlling bar spacing and bar height. A multiple wave break point hypothesis was discussed as a possible mechanism for the formation of Chesapeake Bay multiple longshore bars, and limited observational evidence appeared to support such a mechanism. 相似文献
2.
Tidal sand bars and tidal sand ridges are extensively developed in the macrotidal Gulf of Khambhat, offshore western India. The inner and outer regions of the gulf are characterised by the development distinct tidal sand bodies with discrete geometries and dimensions. The outer gulf ridges are long, narrow, curvilinear and several metres high (∼20 m). They are asymmetric in cross-section and migratory in nature, forming ‘ribbon’ like sand bodies separated by tidal channels. Active dunes on these ridges indicate the presence of sand and their orientation parallel to palaeo-shorelines supports a tidal origin. In contrast to the outer gulf tidal sand ridges, sand bars associated with macrotidal estuaries flanking the Gulf of Khambhat typically have an elongate to diamond shape and are only hundreds of metres in width and a few kilometres length. These tidal sand bars occur in the estuary mouths and within the tidally influenced fluvial reaches of the rivers flowing into the gulf. The height of these sand bars is in the range ∼1–3 m. Due to high tidal ranges and bi-directional flow the sand bars do not develop significant height and are formed between the mutually evasive ebb and flow channels. Their bi-directional foresets and the presence of abundant mud drapes associated with the dunes within in-channel sand bars indicate a tidal origin.The Gulf of Khambhat acquired the present configuration in the last few thousand years since the Pleistocene sea-level lowstand (last glacial maximum, ∼18 ka) when the entire continental shelf was subaerially exposed and rivers down-cut into the coastal plain. With increasing sea-level rise, the exposed shelf was drowned, flooding parts of the Modern western Indian peninsula, and large tidal sand ridges formed in the outer gulf. After the fall of sea-level at 2 ka the gulf acquired the Modern configuration with multiple estuaries on both coastlines, rivers supplied the embayment with sandy sediment, and tidal sand bars formed in the Modern estuaries.Quantitative data gathered from the Modern Gulf of Khambhat indicates that for the P50 case, a vertical drill hole will encounter tidal sand bodies (ridges and bars combined) of approximate dimensions 1700 m long, 470 m wide and 1.5 m high, with a spacing of 400 m. In subsurface hydrocarbon reservoirs, where data is sparse and only limited amount of core is available, this quantitative dataset can be useful to constrain subsurface geocellular models. Also, the overall geometry, distribution and aspect ratio of the tidal sand ridges and tidal sand bars can be used to identify ancient counterparts through seismic geomorphology or in core. 相似文献
3.
为阐明珠三坳陷西北部珠江组一段上亚段浅海陆架砂体成因机制,综合地质与地球物理数据,首先搭建了五级层序地层格架,并以此为约束,开展浅海陆架砂体识别与定量描述,剖析其时空演化规律,进而讨论其成因机制。结果表明：（1）研究区珠江组一段上亚段可划分为4个五级层序,自下向上编号为FS4、FS3、FS2与FS1;(2)研究区发育潮流沙脊与滨外沙坝两种类型陆架砂体,两者整体呈NW-SE向展布,潮流沙脊主要分布于研究区西部,滨外沙坝则集中于东部;（3）FS4、FS3与FS2 3个五级层序中,潮流沙脊与滨外沙坝均呈现较大规模与较多数量,最上部FS1五级层序中,规模与数量达到最小;（4）沉积基准面（水动力）、同沉积地貌、沉积物碎屑供给等因素共同影响了潮流沙脊与滨外沙坝的发育规模、展布特征与时空演化规律等,综合构成了珠三坳陷西北部浅海陆架砂体的成因机制。 相似文献
4.
Hee Jun Lee Jong-Dae Do Sun Sin Kim Won-Kyung Park Kicheon Jun 《Ocean Science Journal》2016,51(4):681-694
Haeundae Beach represents Korean pocket beaches that are currently erosional and dominated by summertime typhoons. The decadal wave characteristics 9 km offshore of Haeundae Beach were analyzed using the WAM model that was validated through the 2007 wave observations. The wave statistics modelled for 1979–2007 indicates that the seasonal mean significant wave height (H s ) is highest (0.6–0.7 m) in summer due to typhoons, in contrast to the lowest (around 0.5 m) autumn analog. The wave direction is also pronouncedly seasonal with the principal bearings of SSW and NE in the summer and winter seasons, respectively. The WAM results additionally show that the H s has gradually increased over the region of Haeundae Beach since 1993. Beach profiling during June–November 2014 shows the opposite processes of the typhoon and fair-weather on beach sands. During a typhoon, foreshore sands were eroded and then accumulated as sand bars on the surf zone. In the subsequent fair-weather, the sand bars moved back to the beach resulting in the surf-zone erosion and foreshore accretion. A total of 5 cycles of these beach-wide sand movements yielded a net retreat (up to 20 m) of the shoreline associated with large foreshore erosion. However, the surf zone only slightly accumulated as a result of the sand cycles. This was attributed to the sand escape offshore from the westernmost tip of the beach. The present study may provide an important clue to understanding the erosional processes in Haeundae Beach. 相似文献
5.
Quantification of nearshore morphology based on video imaging 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
Patricia Soupy Alexander 《Marine Geology》2004,208(1):101-111
The Argus network is a series of video cameras with aerial views of beaches around the world. Intensity contrasts in time exposure images reveal areas of preferential breaking, which are closely tied to underlying bed morphology. This relationship was further investigated, including the effect of tidal elevation and wave height on the presence of wave breaking and its cross-shore position over sand bars. Computerized methods of objectively extracting shoreline and sand bar locations were developed, allowing the vast quantity of data generated by Argus to be more effectively examined. Once features were identified in the images, daily alongshore mean values were taken to create time series of shoreline and sand bar location, which were analyzed for annual cycles and cross-correlated with wave data to investigate environmental forcing and response.These data extraction techniques were applied to images from four of the Argus camera sites. A relationship between wave height and shoreline location was found in which increased wave heights resulted in more landward shoreline positions; given the short lag times over which this correlation was significant, and that the strong annual signal in wave height was not replicated in the shoreline time series, it is likely that this relationship is a result of set-up during periods of large waves. Wave height was also found to have an effect on sand bar location, whereby an increase in wave height resulted in offshore bar migration. This correlation was significant over much longer time lags than the relationship between wave height and shoreline location, and a strong annual signal was found in the location of almost all observed bars, indicating that the sand bars are migrating with changes in wave height. In the case of the site with multiple sand bars, the offshore bars responded more significantly to changes in wave height, whereas the innermost bar seemed to be shielded from incident wave energy by breaking over the other bars. A relationship was also found between a site's mean wave height and inner sand bar location; sites with the highest wave heights tended to have sand bars farther from shore than those with relatively low wave heights. 相似文献
6.
A series of migrating shore-normal sandbars with wavelengths of 75–120 m and heights up to 2 m have been identified off the northern tip of Anna Maria Island, a barrier island on the west-central Florida coast. Similar features have been described elsewhere since the 1930s and termed ‘transverse bars’. The transverse bars identified off Anna Maria Island are found for about 3 km along the coast and extend 4 km offshore, well outside the normal surf-zone width. No cusps or any other associated beach expression is evident despite the fact that the bars come to within about 75 m of the beach. Sediments on the crests of the bars are a well-sorted fine quartz sand, whereas sediments in the troughs are a poorly sorted coarse carbonate shell hash. Historical aerial photographs and repeated high-resolution bathymetric surveys provide a means of quantifying the migration of the transverse bars. Analyses of orthorectified aerial photographs from the early 1940s through the mid 1990s clearly show movement or migration taking place in the bar field. In the 40-yr period from 1951 to 1991, the southern edge of the bar field moved 200–350 m to the south, with an average long-term migration rate of 8 m/yr. Repeated bathymetric surveys over an 8-month period give an average short-term migration rate of 21 m/yr to the south. Wave and current measurements suggest that southerly winds associated with the passage of cold fronts drive near-bed currents to the south that are strong enough to initiate sediment transport and cause the southerly migration of the transverse bars. 相似文献
7.
Environment predictions for locations for which bathymetric data is missing, poor or outdated requires the use of some sort of representative bathymetric form, usually one that is concave up but monotonic. We propose and test a parametric form that superimposes realistic sand bars (Ruessink et al., 2003b) on a background profile that mixes a concave up nearshore with a planar far field behavior. Implementation at any new site involves estimation of five parameters, three that can be found from approximate information from climatology or old offshore charts, one that can be estimated by almost any remote sensing modality and one, hsea that is less well understood but mostly affects deeper bathymetry that has little impact on the resulting surf zone hydrodynamics. Tests against several hundred surveys at three diverse locations show that bathymetry is better estimated by the new barred form than with a previous monotonic profiles in about 80% of cases. The remaining cases are usually associated with the parametric prediction of bars that look realistic but are out of phase. The presence of parametric bars has an even greater impact on predicted hydrodynamics since wave breaking is concentrated at sand bar locations. Modeled cross-shore transects of alongshore current and wave height over the measured survey profile are well represented by modeled transects over the barred parametric form but not for results over a Dean profile. The peak alongshore current strength and location are particularly sensitive to the presence of a sand bar. 相似文献
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南黄海陆架沙脊的形成与演变 总被引：11，自引：3，他引：11
张光威 《海洋地质与第四纪地质》1991,11(2):25-35
本文在对水深较大的滨外沙脊区钻孔、柱状样岩心详细观察的基础上,综合分析已有资料,并对该区浅地震地层剖面和水下沙脊的卫片进行了解译,提出南黄海陆架沙脊最早的形成年代为距今4000年,而现代的潮流沙脊形成于距今2000年以来的最近时期,潮流沙脊是在海面稳定、强潮流发育和大量物质供给的条件下形成和发展的,潮流沙脊的沉积物主要来自黄河和淮河;现代滨外沙脊具有向西北方向迁移、纵向延伸长度不断萎缩的动态演化特征。 相似文献
10.
In this article, results obtained from an experimental investigation conducted to determine the wave-induced geometric characteristics of offshore ripples and bars are presented. The experiments were performed using irregular waves. Natural beach sand was used in the study, where the mean diameter was 0.35 mm and the specific gravity was 2.63. The initial slope of the beach was 1:5. Different wave groups were generated over the initially flat beach, and a number of characteristics were determined. These include the ripple number, individual and average ripple heights, individual and average ripple lengths and the length of the offshore bar. The results of the experimental study were evaluated and empirical expressions based on the results were formulated. 相似文献
11.
Charles W. Finkl Jr. Syed M. Khalil Jeffrey L. Andrews 《Marine Georesources & Geotechnology》2013,31(2):155-173
Erosion of sandy beaches is a worldwide problem that elicits innovative geoengineer‐ing techniques to reduce adverse impacts of shoreline retreat. Beach replenishment has emerged as the “soft”; shore‐stabilization technique of choice for mitigating beach erosion. This method of shore protection involves the addition of sand to the littoral sediment budget for sacrificial purposes. Because inland sand sources are often uneconomical or impractical to use, and known nearshore sources are limited, finding adequate quantities of suitable sand on the inner continental shelf is often vital to beach replenishment projects. The technical studies of survey and materials analysis that identify and delineate usable sand sources are sometimes almost as expensive as small‐project dredging, pumping, and placing the sand on the beach as fill. Inadequate quantity or substandard quality of shelf sand, as well as often‐prohibitive overhead expenses, thus compel shoreline managers to seek suitable sand sources offshore. In the study area off the central‐west coast of Florida, offshore potential borrow areas (PBAs) were identified on the basis of studies conducted in reconnoitory and detailed phases. Sophisticated state‐of‐the‐art equipment used in this investigation provided more detailed subbottom mapping information than is normally obtained with conventional seismic equipment. An example of sand exploration studies was incorporated in a 215‐km2 survey of offshore areas by conducting bathymetric surveys and subbottom seismic profiling, collecting jet probes, grab samples, and vibrocores, and analyzing sediment grading in subsamples from vibrocores. These combined analyses indicated that at least 8.8 ×106 m3 of sand is available in potential borrow areas from 7.0 to 12 km offshore in water depths of 8.0 to 11.5 m. In the PBAs, mean grain size of sand falls into the range 0.13–0.53 mm, sorting averages 0.65–1.31ø, and the overall silt content varies from 3.9–8.5%. High silt contents (13–19%) mapped in some areas make these sedimentary deposits unsuitable as fill for artificial beach renourishment. 相似文献
12.
《Coastal Engineering》2005,52(2):119-137
The autonomous nearshore bar behaviour along the barrier island of Terschelling, The Netherlands, is characterised by the presence of net seaward cyclic migrating sand bars generated near the shoreline. In 1993, a perturbation of the cyclic bar system was introduced by the implementation of a 2 Mm3 shoreface nourishment supplied to the nearshore bar zone, filling up the trough between the middle and outer bar. The morphodynamic response of the nearshore bars to the nourishment perturbation is investigated using a bathymetric data set with an alongshore extent of 12 km and sampled for 10 years. Bar behaviour is quantified in terms of bar crest position in relation to morphometric parameters such as bar depth, height, width and volume. Along with a pronounced development of a three-dimensional bar system unseen in the autonomous behaviour, the nearshore bars exhibited a 6–7 year arrest in their migrational behaviour during which bar morphology remained stable at immediate pre-nourishment morphometric values. At the subsequent onset of bar movement, bars resumed their migration at a rate predicted by autonomous behaviour in parallel development with morphometric parameters along their predicted trends. It is shown that the observed onshore transport of nourished sediment in the 6–7 year arrest results from a gradual deepening of troughs. Cross-shore sediment transport modelling is used to assess the effect of the nourishment on yearly averaged onshore (short-wave nonlinearity) and offshore (undertow) sediment transport rates. The gradual reappearance of the pre-nourishment bar-trough morphology is shown to engender a normalisation in the cross-shore distribution of sediment transport rates to pre-nourishment rates. 相似文献
13.
利用2014–2017年在台湾海峡西部采集的多波束、单道地震剖面、沉积物粒度样品及海流监测资料,在厦门湾近岸陆架区识别出一系列海底沙波,并对沙波的形态特征、分布规律和沉积物组成特征进行分析,探讨水动力条件及其对沙波发育的影响.结果表明沙波发育区水深一般为10～60 m,地形较平缓开阔,坡度一般为0°～1°;平面上沙波区... 相似文献
14.
Beginning in 1988, the Delaware Geological Survey began a program to inventory on-land sand resources suitable for beach nourishment. The inventory included an assessment of the native beach textures using existing data and developing parameters of what would be considered suitable sand textures for Delaware's Atlantic beaches. An assessment of the economics of on-land sand resources was also conducted, and it was determined that the cost of the sand was competitive with offshore dredging costs. In addition, the sand resources were put into a geologic context for purposes of predicting which depositional environments and lithostrati graphic units were most likely to produce suitable sand resources. The results of the work identified several suitable on-land sand resource areas in the Omar and Beaverdam formations that were deposited in barrier-tidal delta and fluvial-estuarine environments, respectively. The identified on-land resources areas have not been utilized due to difficulties of truck transport and development pressures in the resource areas. The Delaware Geological Survey's participation in years 8, 9, and 10 of the Continental Margins Program was developed to extend the known resource areas onshore to offshore Delaware in order to determine potential offshore sand resources for beach nourishment. Years 8 and 9 involved primarily the collection of all available data on the offshore geology. These data included all seismic lines, surface grab samples, and cores. The data were filtered for those that had reliable locations and geologic information that could be used for geologic investigations. Year 10 completed the investigations onshore by construction of a geologic cross-section from data along the coast of Delaware from Cape Henlopen to Fenwick. This cross section identified the geologic units and potential sand resource bodies as found immediately along the coast. These units and resources are currently being extended offshore and tied to known and potential sand resources as part of the continuing cooperative effort between the Delaware Geological Survey and the Minerals Man agement Service's INTERMAR office as sand resources are identified in federal waters off Delaware. Offshore sand resources are found in the Pliocene Beaverdam Formation offshore where overlying Quaternary units have been stripped, in the tidal delta complexes of several Quaternary units likely equivalent to the onshore Omar Formation, and in late Pleistocene and Holocene-age shoal complexes. Onshore lithostratigraphic units can be traced offshore and show another reason for continued geologic mapping both onshore and offshore. 相似文献
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以东方岸外海域为例,计算了极端天气下不同水深条件构建稳定粗化层抛石颗粒的临界粒径;分析了影响粗化层稳定的不同因素,并对人工抛石构建粗化层提出建议。结果显示,在东方岸外30m和60 m水深处,沉积物的中值泥沙粒径至少为30.33 mm和3.99 mm,才能抵御极端浪流的冲刷,且抛石层的厚度应至少为80.9mm和10.8mm,抛石层至少覆盖原始床沙的70%。粗化层的稳定性受颗粒隐蔽暴露效应、砂组分百分比、粗化层颗粒级配、覆盖厚度及覆盖百分比的共同影响,而抛石构建稳定粗化层的实质是对抛石粒径的合理选取及对细粒组分百分比的有效控制。另外,抛石级配的合理选择应受到重视,在施工过程中则需保证覆盖百分数和粗化层的覆盖厚度。粗细混合投放或者分层投放有利于更好地构建稳定粗化层。以上述方法构建稳定粗化层可为海底管道工程设施的维护提供有效支持。 相似文献
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Wave shapes that induce velocity skewness and acceleration asymmetry are usually responsible for onshore sediment transport, whereas undertow and bottom slope effect normally contribute to offshore sediment transport. By incorporating these counteracting driving forces in a phase-averaged manner, the theoretically-based quasi-steady formula of Wang (2007) is modified to predict the magnitude and direction of net cross-shore total load transport under the coaction of wave and current. The predictions show an excellent agreement with the measurement data on medium and fine sand collected by Dohmen-Janssen and Hanes (2002) and Schretlen (2012) in a full-scale wave flume at the Coastal Research Centre in Hannover, Germany. The modified formula can predict the net onshore transport of fine sand in sheet flows. In particular, it can predict the net offshore transport of medium sand in rippled beds through enlarged bed roughness, as well as the net offshore transport of fine-to-coarse sand in sheet flows with the aid of a new criterion to judge the occurrence of net offshore transport. 相似文献
19.
Cape Rodney is a large headland that protrudes 3–4 km into deep water in the Hauraki Gulf and separates the Mangawhai‐Pakiri and Omaha littoral cells. Detailed swath mapping of seabed sediments around Cape Rodney was carried out using by side‐scan sonar and ground‐truthed by SCUBA, grab sampling, and video. Despite the barrier imposed by the headland two pathways of sand transport around the headland, separated by the topographic high of Leigh Reef, have been identified. One lies close to the headland, where sand from the beach and nearshore of the Mangawhai‐Pakiri embayment is driven by waves and currents along a 500‐m‐wide pathway in c. 20–25 m depth around the headland to the vicinity of Leigh Harbour. The other lies in 50 m water‐depth seawards of Leigh Reef. Here fine sand, sourced from the nearshore of the Mangawhai‐Pakiri embayment and driven offshore from the tip of the headland, is transported back and forth by tidal currents in 50 m water depth on the floor of the Jellicoe Channel. The sand bodies along both these pathways are thin and so sand leakage from the Mangawhai‐Pakiri embayment is thought to be small. Transport at these depths is dependent on both tide and wave generated currents and episodic occurring during storm events. The sediment facies associated with little sand transport about a headland in deep water is one of thin and discontinuous and patchy sand cover between rocky areas and over coarser megarippled substrate. Ocean swell, tidally driven phase eddies that spin up on both sides of the headland, and bathymetry all play a role in shaping those facies. 相似文献
20.
Facies and architecture of an estuarine tidal bar (the Trompeloup bar, Gironde Estuary, SW France) 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
This study describes the sedimentary facies and internal architecture of a modern estuarine tidal bar present in the bay-head delta of a wave- and tide-dominated estuary, the Gironde Estuary, in southwest France. Based on 51 cores (2 to 5 m long), this work demonstrates that such bars are composite sedimentary bodies made up of individual sigmoidal sand units isolated from one another by thick muddy layers. The bar appeared in the study area around 1874. Since then, its evolution has been characterized by phases of rapid downstream bar migration alternating with periods of bar abandonment. During the periods of active bar progradation, which commonly last between 10 and 20 years, the bar progrades up to 7 km seaward and forms a narrow (200–800 m wide) sand ridge up to 6 m thick. During abandonment phases which also last around 10–20 years, the bar is starved of sand and a mud layer (1 to 3 m thick) is deposited. The vertical succession formed by the seaward progradation of the tidal bar records these alternating phases of growth and abandonment. A typical vertical succession in the bar system is 8 m thick and comprises several superimposed, upward-coarsening units of cross-stratified sand, deposited during phases of seaward progradation, separated by a thick layer of thinner-bedded mud and sand laminae deposited during phases of bar abandonment. When a tidal bar builds up to the supratidal zone, marshes accumulate and the bar becomes a permanent island in the estuary. The large-scale architecture of the bar is thus made of an alternation of potential sandy reservoir units and muddy internal seals. The reservoir units are characterized by a sigmoidal shape. The muddy layer, which is deposited between the two sigmoidal units, is a thick, continuous potential internal seal. This complex internal architecture is due to the fact that there is a considerable amount of mud present in the bay-head delta of the Gironde Estuary. It is thought to be representative of the architecture of tidal bars in the inner part of wave- and tide-dominated estuaries. 相似文献