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1.
An exact analytical method is described to solve the diffraction problem of a group of truncated vertical cylinders. In order to account for the interaction between the cylinders, Kagemoto and Yue's exact algebraic method is utilised (Kagemoto, H., Yue, D.K.P., 1986. Interactions among multiple three-dimensional bodies in water waves: an exact algebraic method. J Fluid Mech, 46, 129–139). The isolated cylinder diffraction potential is obtained using Garret's solution and evanescent mode solutions are derived in a similar manner (Garret, C.J.R., 1971. Wave forces on a circular dock. J Fluid Mech, 46, 129–139).Free surface elevations are calculated for an array of four cylinders and compared with experiments. Comparisons show good agreement. 相似文献
2.
A wave-power system which combines the concept of a breakwater and a harbor resonance chamber was developed in this study. In the caisson chamber, a multi-resonant oscillating water column (MOWC) was formed to push or suck air through the air turbine and thus continuously generated the power. The proposed wave-power system has two aims in mind: one is shore protection and the other is to extract energy from the ocean. To achieve an optimal effect of harbor resonance when excited by incident waves of various periods, a 60° opening of the cylindrical chamber with an entrance section and an arc-shaped curve board in front of the caisson was designed. In order to assess the energy-conversion efficiency and the hydraulic performance, a 1/20 model of this system was constructed and tested in the wave tank under various wave conditions. Our experimental data for the amplification factor of the MOWC agree well with previous theoretical results [Lee, J.J., 1971. Journal of Fluid Mechanics 45, 375–394]. The curve board proves to be useful: it not only broadens the resonant period but also increases the energy-extraction rate. The reflection coefficient was found to be generally low and to decrease with increasing wave height. However, due to the relatively high energy loss of the MOWC, only 28.5% of the incident-wave energy was converted into air energy, indicating that there are still areas for further improvement. In any event, the experimental results provided a clear picture of the energy-transformation process, and demonstrated the preliminary feasibility of this wave-energy device. 相似文献
3.
In this paper, a finite difference scheme with an efficient 2-D numerical wave absorber for solving the extended Boussinesq equations as derived by Nwogu (Nwogu, O., 1993. Alternative form of Boussinesq equations for nearshore wave propagation. J. Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, ASCE 119, 618–638) is proposed. The alternate direction iterative method combined with an efficient predictor-corrector scheme are adopted for the numerical solution of the governing differential equations. To parameterize the contribution of unresolved small-scale motions, the philosophy of the large eddy simulation is applied on the horizontal plane. The proposed method is verified by two test cases where experimental data are available for comparison. The first case is wave diffraction around a semi-infinite breakwater studied by Briggs et al. (Briggs, M.J., Thompson, E.F., Vincent, C.L., 1995. Wave diffraction around breakwater. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering, ASCE 121, 23–35). The other case is wave concentration by a navigation channel as reported by Yu et al. (Yu, Y.-X., Liu, S.-X., Li, Y.S., Wai, O.W.H., 2000. Refraction and diffraction of random waves through breakwater. Ocean Engineering 27, 489–509). Numerical results agree very well with the corresponding experimental data in both cases. 相似文献
4.
The Breaking Celerity Index (BCI) is proposed as a new wave breaking criterion for Boussinesq-type equations wave propagation models (BTE).The BCI effectiveness in determining the breaking initiation location has been verified against data from different experimental investigations conducted with incident regular and irregular waves propagating along uniform slope [Utku, M. (1999). “The Relative Trough Froude Number. A New Criteria for Wave Breaking”. Ph.D. Dissertation, Dept. of Civil and Enviromental Engineering, Old Dominion University, Norfolk, VA; Gonsalves Veloso dos Reis, M.T.L. (1992). “Characteristics of waves in the surf zone”. MS Thesis, Department of Civil Engineering, University of Liverpool., Liverpool; Lara, J.L., Losada, I.J., and Liu, P.L.-F. (2006). “Breaking waves over a mild gravel slope: experimental and numerical analysis”. Journal of Geophysical Research, VOL 111, C11019] and barred beaches [Tomasicchio, G.R., and Sancho, F. (2002). “On wave induced undertow at a barred beach”. Proceedings of 28th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, ASCE, New York, 557–569]. The considered experiments were carried out in small-scale and large-scale facilities. In addition, one set of data has been obtained by the use of the COBRAS model based upon the Reynolds Averaged Navier Stokes (RANS) equations [Liu, P.L.-F., Lin, P., Hsu, T., Chang, K., Losada, I.J., Vidal, C., and Sakakiyama, T. (2000). “A Reynolds averaged Navier–Stokes equation model for nonlinear water wave and structure interactions”. Proceedings of Coastal Structures ‘99, Balkema, Rotterdam, 169–174; Losada, I.J., Lara, J.L., and Liu, P.L.-F. (2005). “Numerical simulation based on a RANS model of wave groups on an impermeable slope”. Proceedings of Fifth International Symposium WAVES 2005, Madrid].Numerical simulations have been performed with the 1D-FUNWAVE model [Kirby, J.T., Wei, G., Chen, Q., Kennedy, A.B., and Dalrymple, R.A. (1998). “FUNWAVE 1.0 Fully Nonlinear Boussinesq Wave Model Documentation and User's Manual”. Research Report No CACR-98-06, Center for Applied Coastal Research, University of Delaware, Newark]. With regard to the adopted experimental conditions, the breaking location has been calculated for different trigger mechanisms [Zelt, J.A. (1991). “The run-up of nonbreaking and breaking solitary waves”. Coastal Engineering, 15, 205–246; Kennedy, A.B., Chen, Q., Kirby, J.T., and Dalrymple, R.A. (2000). “Boussinesq modeling of wave transformation, breaking and run-up. I: 1D”. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, 126, 39–47; Utku, M., and Basco, D.R. (2002). “A new criteria for wave breaking based on the Relative Trough Froude Number”. Proceedings of 28th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, ASCE, New York, 258–268] including the proposed BCI.The calculations have shown that BCI gives a better agreement with the physical data with respect to the other trigger criteria, both for spilling and plunging breaking events, with a not negligible reduction of the calculation time. 相似文献
5.
Alessandra Romolo Giovanni Malara Giuseppe Barbaro Felice Arena 《Applied Ocean Research》2009,31(1):31-36
This paper deals with the random forces produced by high ocean waves on submerged horizontal circular cylinders. Arena [Arena F, Interaction between long-crested random waves and a submerged horizontal cylinder. Phys Fluids 2006;18(7):1–9 (paper 076602)] obtained the analytical solution of the random wave field for two dimensional waves by extending the classical Ogilvie solution [Ogilvie TF, First- and second-order forces on a cylinder submerged under a free surface. J Fluid Mech 1963;16:451–472; Arena F, Note on a paper by Ogilvie: The interaction between waves and a submerged horizontal cylinder. J Fluid Mech 1999;394:355–356] to the case of random waves. In this paper, the wave force acting on the cylinder is investigated and the Froude Krylov force [Sarpkaya T, Isaacson M, Mechanics of wave forces on offshore structures, Van Nostrand Reinhold Co.; 1981], on the ideal water cylinder, is calculated from the random incident wave field. Both forces represent a Gaussian random process of time. The diffraction coefficient of the wave force is obtained as quotient between the standard deviations of the force on the solid cylinder and of the Froude Krylov force. It is found that the diffraction coefficient of the horizontal force Cdo is equal to the Cdv of the vertical force. Finally, it is shown that, since a very large wave force occurs on the cylinder, it may be calculated, in time domain, starting from the Froude Krylov force. It is then shown that this result is due to the fact that the frequency spectrum of the force acting on the cylinder is nearly identical to that of the Froude–Krylov force. 相似文献
6.
We present a linear Boltzmann equation to model wave scattering in the Marginal Ice Zone (the region of ocean which consists of broken ice floes). The equation is derived by two methods, the first based on Meylan et al. [Meylan, M.H., Squire, V.A., Fox, C., 1997. Towards realism in modeling ocean wave behavior in marginal ice zones. J. Geophys. Res. 102 (C10), 22981–22991] and second based on Masson and LeBlond [Masson, D., LeBlond, P., 1989. Spectral evolution of wind-generated surface gravity waves in a dispersed ice field. J. Fluid Mech. 202, 111–136]. This linear Boltzmann equation, we believe, is more suitable than the equation presented in Masson and LeBlond [Masson, D., LeBlond, P., 1989. Spectral evolution of wind-generated surface gravity waves in a dispersed ice field. J. Fluid Mech. 202, 111–136] because of its simpler form, because it is a differential rather than difference equation and because it does not depend on any assumptions about the ice floe geometry. However, the linear Boltzmann equation presented here is equivalent to the equation in Masson and LeBlond [Masson, D., LeBlond, P., 1989. Spectral evolution of wind-generated surface gravity waves in a dispersed ice field. J. Fluid Mech. 202, 111–136] since it is derived from their equation. Furthermore, the linear Boltzmann equation is also derived independently using the argument in Meylan et al. [Meylan, M.H., Squire, V.A., Fox, C., 1997. Towards realism in modeling ocean wave behavior in marginal ice zones. J. Geophys. Res. 102 (C10), 22981–22991]. We also present details of how the scattering kernel in the linear Boltzmann equation is found from the scattering by an individual ice floe and show how the linear Boltzmann equation can be solved straightforwardly in certain cases. 相似文献
7.
Wave interaction with a perforated wall breakwater with a submerged horizontal porous plate 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
This study examines the hydrodynamic performance of a new perforated-wall breakwater. The breakwater consists of a perforated front wall, a solid back wall and a submerged horizontal porous plate installed between them. The horizontal porous plate enhances the stability and wave-absorbing capacity of the structure. An analytical solution based on linear potential theory is developed for the interaction of water waves with the new proposed breakwater. According to the division of the structure, the whole fluid domain is divided into three sub-domains, and the velocity potential in each domain is obtained using the matched eigenfunction method. Then the reflection coefficient and the wave forces and moments on the perforated front wall and the submerged horizontal porous plate are calculated. The numerical results obtained for limiting cases are exactly the same as previous predictions for a perforated-wall breakwater with a submerged horizontal solid plate [Yip, T.L., Chwang, A.T., 2000. Perforated wall breakwater with internal horiontal plate. Journal of Engineering Mechanics ASCE 126 (5), 533–538] and a vertical wall with a submerged horizontal porous plate [Wu, J.H., Wan, Z.P., Fang, Y., 1998. Wave reflection by a vertical wall with a horizontal submerged porous plate. Ocean Engineering 25 (9), 767–779]. Numerical results show that with suitable geometric porosity of the front wall and horizontal plate, the reflection coefficient will be always rather small if the relative wave absorbing chamber width (distance between the front and back walls versus incident wavelength) exceeds a certain small value. In addition, the wave force and moment on the horizontal plate decrease significantly with the increase of the plate porosity. 相似文献
8.
In this study, the dynamic stresses within the seabed induced by non-linear progressive waves were explored through a series of hydraulic model tests on a movable bed within a wave flume. By comparing Stokes’ 2nd-order wave theory with the theory of wave-induced dynamic stresses within the seabed as proposed by Yamamoto et al. [1978. On the response of a poro-elastic bed to water waves. Journal of Fluid Mechanics 87 (1), 193–206.] and Hsu and Jeng [1994. Wane-induced soil response in an unsaturated anisotropic seabed of finite thickness. International Journal for Numerical and Analytical Methods in Geomechanics 18, 785–807], the experimental results show that the pressure on the seabed surface, the pore water pressure within the seabed as well as the vertical and the horizontal stresses are all smaller than their theoretical values. If we were to obtain the characteristics of seabed soil, the analytical solution of Hsu and Jeng [1994. Wane-induced soil response in an unsaturated anisotropic seabed of finite thickness. International Journal for Numerical and Analytical Methods in Geomechanics 18, 785–807] might agree to the simulation of the wave-induced effective stresses and shear stress in the sandy seabed. A different phase shift exists among all the three soil stresses. Their influences on the three dynamic stresses within seabed soil are important for seabed stability, and can be used in the verification of numerical models. In the whole, the non-linear progressive waves and the naturally deposited seabed are found to have a strong interaction, and the behavior of the induced dynamic stresses within the seabed is very complicated, and should be investigated integrally. 相似文献
9.
The paper presents a numerical method for calculating the particle trajectories of nonlinear gravity waves in deep water. Particle trajectories, mass-transport velocity and Lagrangian wave period can be accurately determined by the proposed method. The high success rate of the proposed method is examined by comparing the present results with those of (a) Longuet-Higgins, M.S., 1986, 1987. Eulerian and Lagrangian aspects of surface waves. Journal of Fluid Mechanics 173, 683-707 and (b) Lagrangian moments and mass transport in Stokes waves. Journal of Fluid Mechanics 179, 547-555. It is shown that the dimensionless mass-transport velocity can exceed 10% for large waves, and the Lagrangian wave period is much larger than the Eulerian wave period for large waves. 相似文献
10.
Diffraction of linear waves around a group of dual porous cylinders consisting of a thin and porous outer cylinder with an impermeable inner cylinder is investigated analytically based on the eigenfunction expansion method proposed by Spring and Monkmeyer [Spring BH, Monkmeyer PL. Interaction of plane waves with vertical cylinders. In: Proceedings 14th international coastal engineering conference. 1974. p. 1828–47] and further modified by Linton and Evans [Linton CM, Evans DV. The interaction of waves with arrays of vertical circular cylinders. Journal of Fluid Mechanics 1990;215:549–69]. The present formulation is an extension of the work of Wang and Ren [Wang KH, Ren X. Wave interaction with a concentric porous cylinder system. Ocean Engineering 1994;21(4):343–60], wherein; the interaction of linear waves with a single concentric porous cylinder system was studied. This paper aims at investigating the influence of multiple interactions between the cylinders in the group on the hydrodynamic wave forces, wave run-up and free-surface elevation in their vicinity. Further, the study focuses on the variation of the forces and run-up on the individual cylinders within the group compared to that on isolated cylinders. 相似文献
11.
The mean available potential energy released by baroclinic instability into the meso-scale eddy field has to be dissipated in some way and Tandon and Garrett [Tandon, A., Garrett, C., 1996. On a recent parameterization of mesoscale eddies. J. Phys. Oceanogr. 26 (3), 406–416] suggested that this dissipation could ultimately involve irreversible mixing of buoyancy by molecular processes at the small-scale end of the turbulence cascade. We revisit this idea and argue that the presence of dissipation within the thermocline automatically requires that a component of the eddy flux associated with meso-scale eddies must be associated with irreversible mixing of buoyancy within the thermocline. We offer a parameterisation of the implied diapycnal diffusivity based on (i) the dissipation rate for eddy kinetic energy given by the meso-scale eddy closure of Eden and Greatbatch [Eden, C., Greatbatch, R.J., 2008. Towards a meso-scale eddy closure. Ocean Modell. 20, 223–239.] and (ii) a fixed mixing efficiency. The implied eddy-induced diapycnal diffusivity (κ) is implemented in a coarse resolution model of the North Atlantic. In contrast to the vertical diffusivity given by a standard vertical mixing scheme, large lateral inhomogeneities can be found for κ in the interior of the ocean. In general, κ is large, i.e. up to o(10) cm2/s, near the western boundaries and almost vanishing in the interior of the ocean. 相似文献
12.
Tai-Wen Hsu Shih-Chun Hsiao Shan-Hwei Ou Swun-Kwang Wang Bin-Da Yang Shih-En Chou 《Ocean Engineering》2007,34(5-6):870-883
A numerical model based on the second-order fully nonlinear Boussinesq equations of Wei et al. [1995. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering 121 (5), 251-263] is developed to simulate the Bragg reflection of both regular and irregular surface waves scattered by submerged bars. Particularly for incident regular waves, the computed results are observed to agree very well with the existing experimental data as presented by Davies and Heathershaw [1984. Journal of Fluid Mechanics 144, 419-446] and Kirby and Anton [1990. Proceedings of the 22nd International Conference on Coastal Engineering, ASCE, New York, pp. 757–768). In the case of incident irregular waves, the simulated results reveal that the distribution of Bragg reflection from irregular waves becomes more flat than that of regular waves. Due to lack of experimental data, the numerical results for incident irregular waves are compared with those of the evolution equation of the mild-slope equation [Hsu et al., 2002 Proceedings of the 24th Ocean Engineering Conference in Taiwan, pp. 70–77 (in Chinese)]. In addition, several parameters such as the number of bars, the relative height of bars and the spacing of bars affecting Bragg reflection are also discussed. 相似文献
13.
Cross-shore hydrodynamics within an unsaturated surf zone 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
This paper concerns the hydrodynamics induced by random waves incident on a steep beach. New experimental results are presented on surface elevation and kinematic probability density functions, cross-shore variation in wave heights, the fraction of broken waves and velocity moments. The surf zone is found to be unsaturated at incident wave frequencies, with a significant proportion of the incident wave energy remaining at the shoreline in the form of bores. Wave heights in both the outer and inner surf zones are best described by a full Rayleigh distribution [Thornton, E.B., Guza, R.T., 1983. Transformation of wave height distribution. J. Geophys. Res. 88, 5925–5938], rather than a truncated Rayleigh distribution as used by Battjes and Janssen (1978) [Battjes, J.A, Janssen, J.P., 1978. Energy loss and setup due to breaking of random waves. Proc. 16th Int. Conf. Coastal Eng. ASCE, New York, pp. 569–588]. A new parametric wave transformation model is outlined which provides explicit expressions for the fraction of broken waves and the energy dissipation rate within the surf zone. On steep beaches, the model appears to offer improved predictive capabilities over the original Battjes and Janssen model. Cross-shore variations in the velocity variance and velocity moments are best described using Linear Gaussian wave theory, with less than 20% of the velocity variance in the inner surf zone due to low frequency energy. 相似文献
14.
Numerical study of three-dimensional suspended sediment transport in waves and currents 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
In the present work, a three-dimensional suspended sediment model (SED) is built. A three-dimensional hydrodynamic model (COHERENS) and a third-generation wave model (SWAN) are fully coupled through accounting for mutual influences between wave and current in them. SED is combined with the coupled model built up above. Damping function of suspended sediment on turbulence is introduced into COHERENS. Then a coupled hydrodynamic–sediment model COHERENS-SED incorporating mutual influences between wave and current is obtained. COHERENS-SED is adopted to simulate three-dimensional suspended sediment transport of Yellow River Delta with wave–current co-existing. The simulated tidal current velocities and suspended sediment concentration match well with field measurement data. The simulated significant wave height and wave period for a case with current's effects can give better agreement with measurement data than a case without current's effects. Numerical simulation results of COHERENS-SED are demonstrated to be reasonable though being compared with previous studies and field measurements [Wang, H., Yang, Z.S., Li, R., Zhang, J., Chang, R., 2001. Numerical modeling of the seabed morphology of the subaqueous Yellow River Delta. International Journal of Sediment Research 16(4), 486–498; Wang, H., 2002. 3-dimensional numerical simulation on the suspended sediment transport from the Huanghe to the Sea. Ph.D. Thesis, Ocean University of China, pp. 12–14 (in Chinese)]. 相似文献
15.
The hydrodynamic performance of a dual cylindrical caisson breakwater (DCBW) formed by a row of caissons each of which consisting of a porous outer cylinder circumscribing an impermeable inner cylinder has been theoretically investigated. The theoretical formulation is based on the eigenfunction expansion method proposed by Spring and Monkmeyer (1974) which was further modified by Linton and Evans [Linton, C.M., Evans, D.V., 1990. The interaction of waves with arrays of vertical circular cylinders. Journal of Fluid Mechanics 215, 549–569] for an array of impermeable cylinders. The present formulation is an extension of the work of Wang and Ren [Wang, K.H., Ren, X., 1994. Wave interaction with a concentric porous cylinder system. Ocean Engineering 21(4), 343–360], wherein; the interaction of linear waves with a single concentric porous cylinder system was studied. In the present study, the formulation has been extended to the case of a group of porous dual cylinder system. Parametric studies are carried out to study the influence of porosity (G0) on the outer caisson, width of the doughnut chamber (a/b) and the angle of wave incidence on the variation in the hydrodynamic loading, wave run-up, free-surface elevation in its vicinity as well as the transmission on its lee-side. The importance of the presence of the inner cylinder in achieving the required hydrodynamic performance in terms of either protection or providing tranquility on its lee side keeping higher stability for the breakwater system is highlighted. 相似文献
16.
In addition to reducing the incoming wave energy, submerged breakwaters also cause a setup of the sea level in the protected area, which is relevant to the whole shadow zone circulation, including alongshore currents and seaward flows through the gaps. This study examines such a leading hydraulic parameter under the simplified hypothesis of 2D motion and presents a prediction model that has been validated by a wide ensemble of experimental data. Starting from an approach originally proposed by Dalrymple and Dean [(1971). Piling-up behind low and submerged permeable breakwaters. Discussion note on Diskin et al. (1970). Journal of Waterways and Harbors Division WW2, 423–427], the model splits the rise of the mean water level into two contributions: one is due to the momentum flux release forced by wave breaking on the structure, and the other is associated with the mass transport process. For the first time, the case of random wave trains has been explicitly considered. 相似文献
17.
Yoshihiko Sekine Fukuji Yamada Yoshiaki Toba Eugene C. Lafond 《Journal of Oceanography》1994,50(4):391-401
Two-dimensional temperature data observed by use of a 275 meter towed thermistor chain deployed from an oceanographic research vessel USS MARYSVILLE, which cruised with a speed of 6.2 knots in July 1966 across the Kuroshio Extension in the North Pacific, are investigated. Two-dimensional variations of the distribution of the isotherms along the ship's track are analyzed with special reference to their slope, wavelength and wave height. The results show that the slope and wave height of isotherms have a tendency to increase as the temperature decreases. Even if the contribution of wave heights smaller than 1.5 m is neglected, i.e., contribution of large scale slope with a horizontal scale of 5–30 km is subtracted, this tendency is still detected. In contrast to this, the wavelength evaluated by the crest to crest method has no dependency on the temperature. Power spectrum of the isotherm depth is proportional tok
–1.87 for 13°C andk
–2.13 for 27°C, wherek is the wave number. It is shown that the spectra of warmer isotherms are relatively well approximated by –2 power law (Garrett and Munk spectrum) for internal waves rather than the –5/3 power law (Kolmogorov spectrum) for three dimensional isotropic turbulence. 相似文献
18.
The note extends and completes the analysis carried out by Briganti and Dodd [Briganti, R., Dodd, N., 2009. Shoreline motion in nonlinear shallow water coastal models. Coastal Eng. 56(5–6) (doi:101016/j.coastaleng.2008.10.008), 495–505.] on the performance of a state of the art Non-Linear Shallow Water Equations solver in common coastal engineering applications. The case of bore-generated overtopping of a truncated plane beach is considered and the performance of the model is assessed by comparing with the Peregrine and Williams [Peregrine, D., Williams, S.M., 2001. Swash overtopping a truncated beach. J. Fluid Mech. 440, 391–399.] analytical solution. In particular the influence of shoreline boundary conditions is investigated by considering the two best performing approaches discussed in Briganti and Dodd [Briganti, R., Dodd, N., 2009. Shoreline motion in nonlinear shallow water coastal models. Coastal Eng. 56(5–6) (doi:101016/j.coastaleng.2008.10.008), 495–505.]. Different distances of the edge of the beach from the bore collapse point are tested. For larger distances, the accuracy of the overtopping modelling decreases, as a consequence of the error in modelling the tip of the swash lens and, consequently, the run-up. A sensitivity analysis using the numerical resolution is carried out. This reveals that the approach in which cells shallower than a prescribed threshold are drained and wave propagation speeds for wet/dry Riemann problem are used at the interface between a wet and a dry cell (referred as Option 2ea in [Briganti, R., Dodd, N., 2009. Shoreline motion in nonlinear shallow water coastal models. Coastal Eng. 56(5–6) (doi:101016/j.coastaleng.2008.10.008), 495–505.]) performs consistently better than the other. 相似文献
19.
Application of desingularized approach to water wave propagation over three-dimensional topography 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
A numerical approach based on desingularized boundary element method and mixed Eulerian–Lagrangian formulation [Zhang et al., 2006. Wave propagation in a fully nonlinear numerical wave tank: a desingularized method. Ocean Engineering 33, 2310–2331] is extended to solve the water wave propagation over arbitrary topography in a three-dimensional wave tank. A robust damping layer applicable for regular and irregular incident waves is employed to minimize the outgoing wave reflection back into the wave tank. Numerical results on the propagation of regular and irregular incident waves over the flat bottom and linear incident waves over an elliptical shoal show good concurrence with the corresponding analytical solutions and experimental data. 相似文献
20.
The study describes a new fixed-frequency Stokes wave theory that differs from previous Stokes wave theories that fix the wave number. The present wave expansion analytically reveals that the wavelength increases with wave height and exceeds than the wavelength obtained by linear wave theory. A method proposed to comparably transform the wave celerity of Fenton's [Fenton, J.D., 1985. A fifth-order Stokes theory for steady waves. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering 111, 216–234.] wave theory to the present one. A direct calculation of the wavelength is introduced for practical solutions, avoiding the need to solve a nonlinear equation using an iterative numerical method. 相似文献