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1.
Liu  Xiaojian  Hou  Peng  Duan  Zihao  Huang  Chunhua  Liu  Cheng  He  Yong  Guo  Huiqun  Wang  Bin  Wang  Shijun  Wang  Qisong  Zhu  Xiaowei  Yuan  Wancheng  Zhao  Bingbing 《Ocean Dynamics》2022,72(7):539-555
Ocean Dynamics - As novel coastal structures, pile row structures, such as breakwaters, have received increasing attention owing to their advantages in coastal protection and coastal landscape...  相似文献   

2.
Seasonal variation in seabed elevation in the muddy intertidal zone of the Chao Phraya River delta, an area of serious coastal erosion for 40 years, was assessed using information on waves and tides predicted by numerical simulations. The study area is under the influence of the Southeast Asian monsoon climate and lies in the innermost part of a sheltered gulf, across which a low‐gradient slope has developed. Observations, aimed at evaluating the effectiveness of a prototype breakwater on mitigating coastal erosion, indicated that the seasonal variation in the seabed elevation, typically about 30 cm, was caused primarily by seasonal changes in wave direction and height. The breakwater seems to have contributed to a net rise in the seabed level at sites behind the structure. Seabed erosion was most apparent during the northeast monsoon, when waves are weak. Erosion under this low wave energy state was attributed to the combined effect of wave breaking and the low tidal level. A difference in the observed seabed accretion rate between the transitional intermonsoon period and the succeeding southwest monsoon period was attributed to the direction of the wave energy flux; offshore sediments seem to have been supplied efficiently to the study area by waves during the transitional period. Another potential cause of seabed erosion and accretion during the wet southwest monsoon season was the discharge of water and sediments from local canals associated with intense tropical rainfall; this discharge seems to be linked to land use in the coastal area. The results of this study show the importance of monitoring across‐shore sediment transport for better understanding of coastal erosion processes. Copyright © 2010 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

3.
Coastal areas are always under frequent threat from various natural processes and man-induced activities. Coastal erosion is recognized as the permanent loss of land along the shoreline resulting in the transformation of the coast. The current study focuses on long-term coastal erosion analysis of the entire Karnataka coast using Remote Sensing, Geographical Information System (GIS), Linear Regression Rate (LRR), and End Point Rate (EPR) techniques. Analysis of 26 (1990 to 2016) years of erosion using Landsat images by the use of the Digital Shoreline Analysis System (DSAS) tool has been done. The results show a high erosion rate at Ullal during this period (LRR -1.3m/yr) and accretion at Devbagh (LRR 3.2 m/yr). The southern Karnataka coast faces severe erosion especially at Ullal, where the settlement is high. At Thanirbhavi, Mukka, Kota, and Om Beaches erosion also is noticed. Both anthropogenic activities like ports, seawalls, breakwaters, etc. and natural processes like long shore drift, seasonal variation, etc. are factors affecting the shoreline change along the Karnataka coast.  相似文献   

4.
The Yangtze River Delta region is characterized by high density of population and rapidly developing economy. There are low lying coastal plain and deltaic plain in this region. Thus, the study area could be highly vulnerable to accelerated sea level rise caused by global warming. This paper deals with the scenarios of the relative sea level rise in the early half period of the 21st century in the study area. The authors suggested that relative sea level would rise 25 50 cm by the year 2050 in the study area, of which the magnitude of relative sea level rise in the Yangtze River Delta would double the perspective worldwide average. The impacts of sea level rise include: (i) exacerbation of coastline recession in several sections and vertical erosion of tidal flat, and increase in length of eroding coastline; (ii) decrease in area of tidal flat and coastal wetland due to erosion and inundation; (iii) increase in frequency and intensity of storm surge, which would threaten the coastal protection works; (iv) reduction of drainage capacity due to backwater effect in the Lixiahe lowland and the eastern lowland of Taihu Lake region, and exacerbation of flood and waterlogging disasters; and (v) increase in salt water intrusion into the Yangtze Estuary. Comprehensive evaluation of sea level rise impacts shows that the Yangtze River Delta and eastern lowland of Taihu Lake region, especially Shanghai Municipality, belong in the district in the extreme risk category and the next is the northern bank of Hangzhou Bay, the third is the abandoned Yellow River delta, and the district at low risk includes the central part of north Jiangsu coastal plain and Lixiahe lowland.  相似文献   

5.
Spatial patterns of multidecadal shoreline changes in two microtidal, low-energetic embayments of southern Zealand, Denmark, were investigated by using the directional distribution of wave energy fluxes. The sites include a barrier island system attached to moraine bluffs, and a recurved spit adjacent to a cliff coast. The barrier island system is characterized by cross-shore translation and by an alignment of the barrier alongshore alternating directions of barrier-spit progradation in a bidirectional wave field. The recurved spit adjacent to the cliff coast experienced shoreline rotation through proximal erosion and distal lateral accretion in a unidirectional wave climate. The multidecadal shoreline changes were coupled to a slope-based morphological coastal classification. All erosive shores occurred within a narrow range of onshore and offshore coastal slopes. The alongshore variability of directional distributions of wave energy fluxes furthermore outlined potential sediment sources and sinks for the evolution of the barrier island system and for the evolution of the recurved spit.  相似文献   

6.
The presence of Cenozoic deposits along the Norwegian Atlantic margin required extensive erosion of the Scandinavian Mountains in a generally cooling climate from the Oligocene to the present. The volume of the deposits implies that the transfer of mass from the inland area to the offshore shelf induced isostatic displacements on a kilometer scale. However, except for glacial excavation of the deep fjords, little is known about the distribution of Cenozoic inland erosion. A long-lasting paradigm incorporates remnants of peneplains at high elevation and assumes very little Cenozoic erosion on these surfaces through time. This scenario has recently been challenged by quantitative geomorphological studies indicating that the matrix of Cenozoic sediments deposited offshore must have been sourced from these surfaces. An alternative explanation for the present-day high-elevation low-relief surfaces is therefore that they evolved throughout the Cenozoic because of glacial and periglacial erosion processes that are known to vary strongly with altitude. Here we explore the implications of the latter scenario by reconstructing a pre-Cenozoic fluvial landscape without elevated low-relief surfaces. We use the present-day offshore sediment volumes for constraining the total Cenozoic erosion, and we find that a likely pre-Cenozoic fluvial landscape is only in few places more than 1 km higher than today. The rock mass of the offshore sediments is generally used for filling the fjords created during the Quaternary glaciations and for restoring concave river profiles from sea level to the peaks. Our reconstruction is based on a fluvial landscape algorithm and considers the isostatic response to the transfer of rock mass – from the basins onto the onshore area. A comparison between the reconstructed and the present-day topography demonstrates that offshore tilting of pre-Cenozoic strata can be partly explained by flexural isostatic compensation in response to the Cenozoic erosion and deposition. Locations of future thermochronometry studies for testing Scandinavian landscape evolution models are suggested based on temperature estimates of the present-day surface buried beneath the erosion products restored from the offshore basins.  相似文献   

7.
Numerical modeling was used in order to study the effect of tidal currents within a breakwater scheme that has reached morphodynamic equilibrium. Tidal flow is simulated, using a downscaling procedure from a regional numerical model, in order to investigate the small-scale hydrodynamic modifications caused by the structures in the absence of waves. Sediment transport processes at different stages of the neap and spring tidal cycle are also considered over the entire scheme. Significant modifications to the tidal currents were identified, caused by the presence of the following structures: (1) obstruction of the main tidal flow and (2) flow channelization between the structures and the coastline, leading to flow acceleration over the salients. Furthermore, the effect of the modified tidal regime on bedload sediment transport processes was investigated. The design characteristics of the scheme (i.e., gap width, offshore distance, and relative angle with respect to the tidal currents) are found to influence locally the tidal flow and the bedload transport, over the top of the salients, modulating their growth. Despite being located in a mixed-energy, wave-dominated environment, the shear stress ratio between currents and waves show a dominance of tidal processes at the sheltered areas of the scheme (i.e., behind the breakwaters) that diminishes as the incident wave period increases. Hence, in order to correctly predict the morphological evolution of such coast under the influence of coastal protection schemes, the tidal processes have to be studied in addition to the wave processes.  相似文献   

8.
The results of multidisciplinary field studies of a segment of the coastal zone (in the area near the Baltiysk Strait South-East Baltic) are presented. The natural regime of the evolution of this zone has changed under the effect of anthropogenic factor. Bed topography, bottom sediments, and shore morphology and dynamics are characterized. The effect of entrance moles has resulted in the formation of various local hydrolithodynamic conditions on both sides of these moles, including the accumulation of sedimentary material and the seaward protrusion of the coastline in the north and the permanent erosion of the shore in the south. To reduce the adverse effect of hydrodynamic processes on the coastal zone south of the moles it is proposed to use the clean material extracted during strait dredging.  相似文献   

9.
The US Minerals Management Service (MMS) is responsible for safe and environmentally sound management of offshore oil and gas resources. In recent years, there has been a tremendous increase in both activities and plans for deepwater development of these resources in the Gulf of Mexico (GOM). As the industry meets the enormous technical challenges involved, there is a concomitant effort to assure environmental protection of deep-ocean and coastal resources. This paper will outline the research planning and program currently underway to assess impacts, identify potential problems, and discover more about unknown resources of the deep ocean.  相似文献   

10.
系统自振频率限制是海上风机结构设计中的一个关键因素。运行状态下风机动力荷载会引起基础的水平侧移,较大的水平侧移会导致基础刚度的降低,进一步影响风机系统的自振频率。该文基于有限元软件ABAQUS平台,建立单桩式海上风机结构系统的自振频率数值模型,并讨论运行状态下基础水平侧移对大直径海上风机系统自振频率的影响。模型中考虑了塔筒的变截面特性;桩-土相互作用通过p-y曲线方法模拟;桩和塔采用梁单元模拟;通过Pushover分析汇总出水平侧移引起的桩顶水平刚度。研究结果表明:桩基侧向位移会降低风机结构体系的自振频率;桩基侧向位移对基频的影响较小,对高阶频率的影响显著;大直径海上风机的频率计算中可忽略风机运行状态对体系自振频率的影响。  相似文献   

11.
A large number of breakwaters have been constructed along coasts to protect humans and infrastructures from tsunamis.There is a risk that foundation soils of these structures may liquefy,or partially liquefy during the earthquake preceding a tsunami,which would greatly reduce the structures’capacity to resist the tsunami.It is necessary to consider not only the soil’s liquefaction behavior due to earthquake motions but also its post-liquefaction behavior because this behavior will affect the breakwater’s capacity to resist an incoming tsunami.In this study,numerical tests based on a sophisticated constitutive model and a soil-water coupled finite element method are used to predict the mechanical behavior of breakwaters and the surrounding soils.Two real breakwaters subjected to two different seismic excitations are examined through numerical simulation.The simulation results show that,earthquakes affect not only the immediate behavior of breakwaters and the surrounding soils but also their long-term settlements due to post-earthquake consolidation.A soil profile with thick clayey layers beneath liquefied soil is more vulnerable to tsunami than a soil profile with only sandy layers.Therefore,quantitatively evaluating the seismic behavior of breakwaters and surrounding soils is important for the design of breakwater structures to resist tsunamis.  相似文献   

12.
Incised coastal gullies (ICGs) are dynamic features found at the terrestrial‐coastal interface. Their geomorphic evolution is driven by the interactions between processes of fluvial knickpoint migration and coastal cliff erosion. Under scenarios of future climate change the frequency and magnitude of the climatological drivers of both terrestrial (fluvial and hillslope) and coastal (cliff erosion) processes are likely to change, with an adjunct impact on these types of coastal features. Here we explore the response of an incised coastal gully to changes in both terrestrial and coastal climate in order to elucidate the key process interactions which drive ICG evolution. We modify an extant landscape evolution model, CHILD, to incorporate processes of soft‐cliff erosion. This modified version, termed the Coastal‐Terrestrial‐CHILD (CT‐CHILD) model, is then employed to explore the interactions between changing terrestrial and coastal driving forces on the future evolution of an ICG found on the south‐west Isle of Wight, UK. It was found that the magnitude and frequency of storm events will play a key role in determining the future trajectory of ICGs, highlighting a need to understand the role of event sequencing in future projections of landscape evolution. Furthermore, synergistic (positive) and antagonistic (negative) interactions were identified between coastal and terrestrial parameters, such as wave height intensity and precipitation duration, which act to modulate the impact of changes in any one parameter. Of note was the role played by wave height intensity in driving coastal erosion, which was found to play a more important role than sea‐level rise in determining rates of coastal erosion. This highlights the need for a greater focus on wave height in studies of soft‐cliff erosion. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

13.
Topographic changes in two blowouts located in Island Beach State Park, New Jersey, USA were monitored over the winter of 1981-1982. Elevation changes were measured with erosion pins, and sediment traps placed at comparable locations in each blowout monitored the amount of sand moved by the wind. Discrete wind events were identified from regional data, and morphological data for the intervals with the highest onshore and offshore wind speeds are examined in detail. Vegetation is the primary influence on the development of the two blowouts. Blowout A is characterized by eroding sidewalls, a stable base, and an accreting blowout rim. High rates of sediment transport occur through the blowout throat which results in accretion on the vegetated rim. This blowout is an active sediment transfer system. Vegetation causes a large amount of deposition in the throat of blowout B. As vegetation was buried over the winter, the area of deposition migrated inland. Sidewall erosion also occurred in blowout B. Little change was recorded on the blowout rim. Blowout B is a recovering system where sediment is delivered to the blowout floor from the beach by onshore winds and from the blowout rim by offshore winds where it is stabilized by vegetation. The development of foredune blowouts is governed largely by vegetation cover on the dune crest and by sidewall erosion during offshore and onshore winds. Blowout recovery depends on vegetation growth and sediment deposition in the throat, and on the role of the sidewalls as sources of sediment which is deposited elsewhere within the system. Foredune blowouts are dynamic systems in which positive feedbacks in sediment availability and vegetation growth lead to a cycle of development and closure.  相似文献   

14.
损伤和缺陷对海洋平台抗冰抗震性能的影响   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1  
现役导管架式海洋平台可能会存在裂纹、凹痕、腐蚀等缺陷和损伤,并可能受到海洋生物附着及地基土冲刷的影响,这些问题将减小构件强度或者放大荷载作用.取一座导管架海洋平台为例,应用动力时程及整体推进法进行分析,对比损伤前后动冰力作用下结构响应、结构抗冰能力曲线及剩余强度储备系数,并取3个地震波对损伤前后结构的地震响应、抗震能力曲线、抗震安全裕度系数进行对比.结果显示损伤和缺陷极大地降低了海洋平台抗冰抗震性能,对现役海洋平台的检测和维修也有一定借鉴意义.  相似文献   

15.
A study of the distribution of the 'booster' biocide 2-methylthio-4-tert-butylamino-6-cyclopropyl amino-s-triazine (Irgarol 1051) was carried out in the coastal waters of Bermuda. Irgarol 1051 concentrations (as determined by GC/MS) up to 590 ng l-1 have been measured within Hamilton Harbour. The data presented herein unequivocally demonstrate contamination of the coastal system of Bermuda by Irgarol 1051. Concurrently, TBT concentrations were measured and results indicate that levels are falling through legislated changes in antifouling treatments, from 220 ng l-1 in 1990 to < 20 ng l-1 (as Sn) by 1995, in the open water area of Hamilton Harbour. Concentrations of TBT immediately offshore from a boatyard were found to be > 600 ng l-1 (Sn), indicating continuing release due to painting operations and sediments in the area.  相似文献   

16.
The current study presents the effects of seasonal variations in the depth-of-closure(Dc)on shoreline evolution using a numerical,one-line shoreline model.Beach erosion of the southern beach of the Nha Trang Coast,which is located in south central of Vietnam,is selected as the study area.This study area is immensely influenced by the tropical monsoon climate that has a clear pattern of large waves in the northeast monsoon season and calm waves in the non-monsoon season.The analysis of the long-term measured shoreline variations from a video-camera system has found a strong correlation of these variations to the monsoon-dominated wave characteristics in the Nha Trang Bay.Therefore,a new approach for determining the depth-of-closure with consideration of the seasonal wave climate changes is purposed in the current study.By implementing this new approach into a numerical,one-line shoreline model,it is found that the seasonal variations of Dc appear to better describe the periodical shoreline evolution due to the monsoon-dominated wave characteristics for the Nha Trang Coast.Such important findings are considered to commonly apply for monsoon-dominated coastal regions in general.These findings are useful information not only for scientific readers but also for the coastal authorities and managers in order to make better countermeasure plans against this kind of erosion mechanism in the future.  相似文献   

17.
On March 11th 2011 a M w 9.0 mega-thrust interface subduction earthquake, the Great East Japan Earthquake, occurred 130 km off the northeast coast of Japan in the Pacific Ocean at the Japan Trench, triggering tsunami which caused damage along 600 km of coastline. Observations of damage to buildings (including vertical evacuation facilities) and coastal defences in Tōhoku are presented following investigation by the Earthquake Engineering Field Investigation Team (EEFIT) at 10 locations in Iwate and Miyagi Prefectures. Observations are presented in the context of the coastal setting and tsunami characteristics experienced at each location. Damage surveys were carried out in Kamaishi City and Kesennuma City using a damage scale for reinforced concrete (RC), timber and steel frame buildings adapted from an earlier EEFIT tsunami damage scale. Observations show that many sea walls and breakwaters were overtopped, overturned, or broken up, but provided some degree of protection. We show the extreme variability of damage in a local area due to inundation depth, flow direction, velocity variations and sheltering. Survival of many RC shear wall structures shows their high potential to withstand local earthquake and significant tsunami inundation but further research is required into mitigation of scour, liquefaction, debris impact, and the prevention of overturning failure. Damage to steel and timber buildings are also discussed. These observations are intended to contribute to mitigation of future earthquake and tsunami damage by highlighting the key features which influence damage level and local variability of damage sustained by urban coastal infrastructure when subjected to extreme tsunami inundation depths.  相似文献   

18.
Monsoon-induced upwelling off the Vietnamese coast   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1  
During the southwest monsoon from July 8 to 28, 2003, an interdisciplinary cruise took place in the central area of Vietnamese upwelling with “MV Nghien Cuu Bien” in the South China Sea. Physical observations in the upwelling area are analyzed with respect to local/regional wind forcing and far field forcing. Nutrients and phytoplankton measurements are discussed with respect to exchange processes between different water masses. The wind-induced coastal upwelling by local wind forcing is much weaker than in the previous years due to weaker-than-normal winds. This can be attributed to the far field forcing of the 2002/2003 El Niño event which modulates the upwelling intensity. The atmospheric conditions reflect the typical situation after an El Niño event which weakens the wind-induced coastal upwelling, reduces the latent heat flux, and results in higher-than-normal sea-surface temperatures. The general circulation pattern during SW monsoon is driven by the spatial asymmetry in the monsoon forcing. The flow pattern is characterized by an upwelling-induced northward undercurrent and a recently detected southward countercurrent. The resulting stretching deformation of this flow pattern forms an offshore jet between ~12°N and 12.5°N and causes a local enhancement of the upwelling intensity. The upwelling due to stretching deformation is a peculiarity, which makes the Vietnamese upwelling area different to other upwelling areas. A budget of the upwelling components is presented: the strongest contribution in 2003 to the Vietnamese upwelling is the dynamical upwelling due to the clockwise rotation of the northward undercurrent. The internal radius of deformation separates the upwelling area from the offshore area as well as different water masses. Mekong River and the Gulf of Thailand waters which are offshore show nutrient depletion. Therefore, high chlorophyll maxima cannot be explained by nutrient supply from river runoff. The dynamical upwelling brings in nutrient-rich Maximum Salinity Water into the euphotic zone. This causes a subsurface chlorophyll maximum between 20 and 40 m water depth along the northward undercurrent. Deflection from the Redfield ratio in the C:N ratio and negative excess nitrogen identifies the region as nitrogen-limited which may favor cyanobacteria blooms. The consequence is a unique feature in new production: in the upwelling area, new production is based on upwelled nitrate, whereas offshore in the nutrient-depleted Mekong and Gulf of Thailand water, new production is based in addition on nitrogen fixation.  相似文献   

19.
Through a set of observations including satellite, cruise and mooring data during May-July 1997 the transition between the downwelling and upwelling regimes off Galicia has been characterized. The poleward flow, typical of downwelling, was associated with a series of mesoscale eddies and interacted with coastal freshwater inputs. The poleward flow along the continental slope was separated into an offshore branch and a nearshore branch by a well-defined equatorward flow and both associated with a prominent salinity maximum. With the onset of upwelling-favorable winds, equatorward flow was established over the entire shelf. At the same time, a buoyant, warm surface layer spread out over the shelf from the Rías as water previously forced in by southerly winds was flushed out by the upwelling winds. The completed transition to summertime coastal upwelling took place after the cruise but was evident in satellite images. A conceptual model is used to demonstrate that the coastal orientation with respect to the upwelling winds enhances offshore flow outside the Rías and displaces the poleward flow offshore after several days of upwelling.  相似文献   

20.
The geologic framework is an important factor worth consideration when analyzing the development of seacoasts. The different coastal responses to hydrometeorological and anthropogenic factors depend on the composition and amount of original coast-forming sediments. The impact of sediment composition on morphometric parameters is best observed in areas where sand unrepresentative of the adjacent coastal sectors appears on beaches with a relatively uniform lithological composition. These areas are referred to as lithological anomalies. Large amounts of coarse-grained sand, uncharacteristic of the adjacent coastal sectors of the Curonian spit, accumulated in the area of the strait that existed in the Post-Littorina Late Subboreal(3.7-2.5 ka BP) time south of the Juodkrante settlement. Due to accumulation of coarse sand, the beach in this sector is narrow and has a higher slope, and the ridge is lower and with a smaller volume of sand than in the adjacent coastal sectors. The specific sand composition and morphology of this coastal sector are responsible for different coastal dynamics during storms. During extreme storms, beach erosion in this coastal sector is minimal(sometimes even accretion takes place)compared with other sectors where beach erosion is rather substantial. Meanwhile, during periods of relatively calm weather, i.e. times of expected regeneration of the cross profile, this sector stands out for active erosion processes.  相似文献   

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