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1.
Mutual hydrodynamic interaction effects between closely spaced large columns can cause substantial increases in local wave height and in other kinematic quantities. This phenomenon of upwelling is here analysed theoretically, by using a high order hybrid element technique. Results are presented as contour plots and isometrics of local free surface amplitudes in regular waves; linear transfer functions of wave amplitude at a point; mean square wave amplitudes in long crested random seas; and local components of horizontal velocity in regular waves. It is suggested that wave upwelling is an important phenomenon which should be considered in design. 相似文献
2.
Ching-Her Hwang 《Ocean Engineering》1988,15(3)
Experimental studies of wave transmission by overtopping for a smooth impermeable breakwater with 1:1.5 slope under both regular and random waves were conducted. A resulting relationship between the transmission coefficient (determined by wave height and wave period) and a breakwater height above mean water level normalized with the height of wave run-up measured directly by capacity wave meter is reported. Meanwhile, their discrepancies in both regular and random waves are also discussed in this study. The authors find also that the transmitted significant wave period by overtopping of random waves may be much longer than those of the incoming wave. This characteristic is especially prominent and probably creates the oscillation phenomenon in the wave basin at the back of breakwater when the breakwater height (above mean water level) to water depth ratio is greater than 0.23 and the incoming wave period is longer than 8 sec. 相似文献
3.
The structure of the annual-mean shallow meridional overturning circulation(SMOC) in the South China Sea(SCS) and the related water movement are investigated,using simple ocean data assimilation(SODA) outputs.The distinct clockwise SMOC is present above 400 m in the SCS on the climatologically annual-mean scale,which consists of downwelling in the northern SCS,a southward subsurface branch supplying upwelling at around 10°N and a northward surface flow,with a strength of about 1×10~6 m~3/s.The formation mechanisms of its branches are studied separately.The zonal component of the annual-mean wind stress is predominantly westward and causes northward Ekman transport above 50 m.The annual-mean Ekman transport across 18°N is about 1.2×10~6 m~3/s.An annual-mean subduction rate is calculated by estimating the net volume flux entering the thermocline from the mixed layer in a Lagrangian framework.An annual subduction rate of about 0.66×10~6m~3/s is obtained between 17° and 20°N,of which 87% is due to vertical pumping and 13% is due to lateral induction.The subduction rate implies that the subdution contributes significantly to the downwelling branch.The pathways of traced parcels released at the base of the February mixed layer show that after subduction water moves southward to as far as 11°N within the western boundary current before returning northward.The velocity field at the base of mixed layer and a meridional velocity section in winter also confirm that the southward flow in the subsurface layer is mainly by strong western boundary currents.Significant upwelling mainly occurs off the Vietnam coast in the southern SCS.An upper bound for the annual-mean net upwelling rate between 10° and 15°N is 0.7×10~6m~3/s,of which a large portion is contributed by summer upwelling,with both the alongshore component of the southwest wind and its offshore increase causing great upwelling. 相似文献
4.
Based on the second-order solutions obtained for the three-dimensional weakly nonlinear random waves propagating over a steady uniform current in finite water depth, the joint statistical distribution of the velocity and acceleration of the fluid particle in the current direction is derived using the characteristic function expansion method. From the joint distribution and the Morison equation, the theoretical distributions of drag forces, inertia forces and total random forces caused by waves propagating over a steady uniform current are determined. The distribution of inertia forces is Gaussian as that derived using the linear wave model, whereas the distributions of drag forces and total random forces deviate slightly from those derived utilizing the linear wave model. The distributions presented can be determined by the wave number spectrum of ocean waves, current speed and the second order wave–wave and wave–current interactions. As an illustrative example, for fully developed deep ocean waves, the parameters appeared in the distributions near still water level are calculated for various wind speeds and current speeds by using Donelan–Pierson–Banner spectrum and the effects of the current and the nonlinearity of ocean waves on the distribution are studied. 相似文献
5.
This study makes use of the concept of wave age in estimating ocean wave period from space borne altimeter measurements of backscattering coefficient and significant wave height. Introduction of wave age allowed better accounting of the difference between swells and wind waves. Using two years (1998 and 1999) data of TOPEX/Poseidon altimeter and ocean data buoy observations in the Indian Ocean, coefficients were generated for wave period, which were subsequently tested against data for the years 2000 and 2001. The results showed the wave period accuracy to be of the order of 0.6 sec (against 1.3 sec obtained with the semiempirical approach, reported earlier). 相似文献
6.
This study makes use of the concept of wave age in estimating ocean wave period from space borne altimeter measurements of backscattering coefficient and significant wave height. Introduction of wave age allowed better accounting of the difference between swells and wind waves. Using two years (1998 and 1999) data of TOPEX/Poseidon altimeter and ocean data buoy observations in the Indian Ocean, coefficients were generated for wave period, which were subsequently tested against data for the years 2000 and 2001. The results showed the wave period accuracy to be of the order of 0.6 sec (against 1.3 sec obtained with the semiempirical approach, reported earlier). 相似文献
7.
The research into hydrodynamic loading on ocean structures has concentrated mostly on circular cross-section members and relatively limited work has been carried out on wave loading on other cross-sections such as rectangular sections. These find applications in many offshore structures as columns and pontoons in semi-submersibles and tension-leg platforms. The present investigation demonstrates the behaviour of rectangular cylinders subject to wave loading and also supplies the hydrodynamic coefficients for the design of these sections.This paper presents the results of wave forces acting on a surface piercing truncated rectangular cylinder set vertically in a towing tank. The experiments are carried out in a water depth of 2.2 m with regular and random waves for low Keulegan–Carpenter number up to 6. The rectangular cylinder is of 2 m length, 0.2 m breadth and 0.4 m width with a submergence depth of 1.45 m from still water level. Based on Morison equation, the relationship between inertia and drag coefficients are evaluated and are presented as a function of KC number for various values of frequency parameter β, for two aspect ratios of cylinders, equals to 1/2 and 2/1. Drag and inertia coefficients obtained through regular wave tests are used for the random wave analysis to compute the in-line force spectrum.The results of the experiments show the drag and inertia coefficients are strongly affected by the variation in the aspect ratios of the cylinder. The drag coefficients decreases and inertia coefficients increases with increase in Keulegan–Carpenter number up to the range of KC number tested. The random wave results show a good correlation between measured and computed force spectrums. The transverse forces in both regular and random waves are found to be small compared to in-line forces. 相似文献
8.
西北太平洋浪流相互作用对有效波高的影响研究 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
西北太平洋强流区会对海浪的特征和分布产生显著的影响,尤其是研究台风过程中海流与海浪的相互作用具有重要的研究意义。本文以ROMS海洋模式和SWAN海浪模式为基础,构建了浪流耦合模式系统,对2013年10月6-17日间的台风“丹娜丝”、“百合”、“韦帕”过程中西北太平洋浪流相互作用中海流对有效波高的影响进行了研究。通过对比模式模拟有效波高与浮标观测资料,发现耦合后的有效波高比非耦合结果更接近观测值,耦合模式中海流的存在对有效波高的分布有明显的影响。研究表明,特别是在有效波高峰值处,海流引起的有效波高增大最大可达1 m。海浪浪向及流向的空间分布以及中国近海浮标处浪向与流向的时间序列表明,流向与浪向反向时,海流的影响造成有效波高增大;二者同向时,有效波高减小。海流对有效波高的调整会沿着海浪传播的方向传播相当一段距离。在西北太平洋的海浪场计算中,引入海流的耦合模式计算结果对改善强流区海浪预报具有重要意义,并且海流的模拟精度对于高精度的海浪预报非常重要。 相似文献
9.
Understanding the hydrodynamic interactions between ocean waves and the oscillating water column (OWC) wave energy converter is crucial for improving the device performance. Most previous relevant studies have focused on testing onshore and offshore OWCs using 2D models and wave flumes. Conversely, this paper provides experimental results for a 3D offshore stationary OWC device subjected to regular waves of different heights and periods under a constant power take–off (PTO) damping simulated by an orifice plate of fixed diameter. In addition, a 3D computational fluid dynamics (CFD) model based on the RANS equations and volume of fluid (VOF) surface capturing scheme was developed and validated against the experimental data. Following the validation stage, an extensive campaign of computational tests was performed to (1) discover the impact of testing such an offshore OWC in a 2D domain or a wave flume on device efficiency and (2) investigate the correlation between the incoming wave height and the OWC front wall draught for a maximum efficiency via testing several front lip draughts for two different rear lip draughts under two wave heights and a constant PTO damping. It is found that the 2D and wave flume modelling of an offshore OWC significantly overestimate the overall power extraction efficiency, especially for wave frequencies higher than the chamber resonant frequency. Furthermore, a front lip submergence equal to the wave amplitude affords maximum efficiency whilst preventing air leakage, hence it is recommended that the front lip draught is minimized. 相似文献
10.
This study investigates experimentally the breaking wave height of multi-directional random waves passing over an impermeable submerged breakwater. Experiments have been conducted in a three-dimensional wave basin equipped with a multi-directional random wave generator. A special type of wave gauge has been newly devised to record the water surface elevations in the breaker zone as accurately as possible. The records are analyzed to estimate the location and limit of wave breaking. Comparisons have also been made with the results of regular waves. The influence of the incident wave conditions on the breaking wave height normalized by the breakwater dimensions has been investigated. Empirical formulae have been presented to estimate the breaking limit of multi-directional random waves based on the experimental records. The formulae have been tested and found to work well not only for multi-directional random waves, but for regular waves as well. 相似文献
11.
2002年夏季广东陆架边缘上升流海域的内潮现象及其局地反馈初探 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
基于2002年夏季开展的"中国近海环流形成变异机理、数值预测方法及对环境的影响"观测项目获得的往复走航温盐流资料,结合同期的卫星观测(风、SST、海表动力高度)数据,初步探讨了粤东陆架边缘上升流区的内潮现象及其局地反馈特征.研究结果表明:粤东陆架边缘海域存在显著的、间歇性的相对低温海水的沿陆坡涌升现象,其中A航段的低温(18～23℃)海水涌升发生在约50～150m深度,B航段的低温(<18℃)海水涌升则主要位于150 m以深.由于观测期间海表风变化很小,而海洋涡旋在几周至几个月内相对稳定,并且研究海域涡旋对流场的影响似乎局限于75 m以浅的上层海洋,因而A、B航段的差异显然不能用海表风或海表动力高度变化来解释.进一步的分析表明粤东陆架边缘上升流区存在显著的内潮现象,尽管资料所限使得我们无法准确判定该内潮性质,往复走航海流剖面的确揭示了1阶和5阶内潮模的存在.内潮的不同模态极大地改变了上层海洋的热力和环流结构;低阶内潮模导致沿最大温度水平梯度处水温的剧烈垂向起伏(>30 m)以及跃层两侧的海流反向现象;高阶内潮模导致垂直陆坡方向水平流速的多次反向,强烈的流剪切可能与增强的混合联系在一起.导致低阶内潮模(A航段)向高阶内潮模(B航段)转变的原因可能是由于内潮特征线倾角与地形坡度比较接近而激发的"临界反射"效应.分析结果还表明,不同内潮模态导致的环流结构变异叠加在背景环流场之上,会显著影响粤东陆架边缘上升流的空间结构及强度. 相似文献
12.
Yoshiaki Toba 《Journal of Oceanography》1972,28(3):109-120
A new growth equation for wind waves of simple spectrum is presented upon three basic concepts. The period and the wave height of significant waves in dimensionless forms, which are considered to correspond to the peak frequency and the energy level, respectively, are used as representative quantities of wind waves. One of the three basic concepts is the concept of local balance, and the other two concern the acquisition of wave energy and the dissipation of wave energy, respectively. It is shown from some actual data that the equation, together with two universal constants concerning the acquisition and the dissipation of wave energy (B=6.2×10?2 andK=2.16×10?5, respectively), is applied universally to wide ranges of wind waves from those in a wind-wave tunnel to fully developed sea in the open ocean. “The three-second power law for wind waves of simple spectrum”, and a few relations as the lemmas, are derived, such that the mean surface transport due to the orbital motion of wind waves is always proportional to the friction velocity in wind, and that the steepness is inversely proportional to the root of the wave age. It is also derived that the portion of wind stress which directly enters the wind waves decreases exponentially with increasing wave age and is 7.5 % of the total wind stress for very young waves. Also, equations are presented as to the increase of momentum of drift current, and as to the supply of turbulent energy by wind waves into the upper ocean. 相似文献
13.
W.C. Seabergh 《Ocean Engineering》2010,37(1):48-58
A 1:50 scale physical model was constructed for the 17th Street Canal region, New Orleans, on the southern coast of Lake Pontchartrain, as part of the Interagency Performance Evaluation Task Force (IPET) study of Hurricane Katrina. The purpose of the 1350 m2 physical model that represented about 3.4 km2 of the local area was to aid in defining wave and water velocity conditions in the 17th Street Canal during the time period leading up to the breaching of the floodwall within the Canal. In the immediate period following this disaster, there were many hypothesis of failure put forth in the media. Some of these hypothesis indicated wave action may have been the underlying cause of the failure of the 17th Street Canal floodwall. Some performed numerical work with inappropriate boundary conditions, which indicated strong wave-generated currents may have caused erosion along the floodwalls. This physical model study indicated a number of wave-attenuating processes occurring as waves approached the location of the breach. Wave height reduction resulted due to: (1) refraction of wave energy over the shallower submerged land areas surrounding the harbor away from the canal; (2) reflection of energy off vertical walls in the region between the entrance to the canal near the Coast Guard Harbor and the bridge; and (3) interaction of the wave with the Hammond Highway bridge, including reflection and transmission loss. Wave heights near the lakeside of the bridge were 0.3-0.9 m in height, reduced from 1.8 to 2.7 m wave heights in the open lake. Waves on the south side of the bridge, near the breach, were further reduced to heights below 0.3 m. These results supported the conclusion that waves were not a significant factor for the 17th Street Canal floodwall failure. Other IPET investigations determined floodwall failure was of a geotechnical nature due to the high surge water level. The physical model also provided calibration information for numerical wave models. The effects of debris on flow and waves after the breach was formed were also investigated. 相似文献
14.
15.
B.T. Kuebel Cervantes J.S. Allen 《Deep Sea Research Part II: Topical Studies in Oceanography》2006,53(25-26):2956
The three-dimensional circulation on the continental shelf off northern California in the wind events and shelf transport (WEST) experiment region during summer 2001 is studied using the primitive equation regional ocean modeling system (ROMS). The simulations are performed with realistic topography and initial stratification in a limited-area domain with a high-resolution grid. Forcing consists of measured wind-stress and heat flux values obtained from a WEST surface buoy. The general response shows a southward coastal upwelling jet of up to and a weakening or reversal of currents inshore of the jet when upwelling winds relax. Model results are compared to WEST moored velocity and temperature measurements at five locations, to CODAR surface current observations between Pt. Reyes and Bodega Bay, and to hydrographic measurements along shipboard survey lines. The model performs reasonably well, with the highest depth-averaged velocity correlation (0.81) at the inshore mooring (40 m water depth) and lowest correlation (0.68) at the mid-depth mooring (90 m depth). The model shows generally stronger velocities than those observed, especially at the inshore moorings, and a lack in complete reversal of southward velocities observed when upwelling winds relax. The comparison of surface velocities with CODAR measurements shows good agreement of the mean and the dominant mode of variability. The hydrography compares closely at the southern and northern edges of the survey region (correlation coefficients between 0.90 and 0.97), with weaker correlations at the three interior survey lines (correlation coefficients between 0.44 and 0.76). Mean model fields over the summer upwelling period show slight coastal jet separation off Pt. Arena and significant separation off Pt. Reyes. The cape regions also experience relatively strong bottom velocities and nonlinearity in the surface flow. Across-shelf velocity sections examined along the shelf reveal a double jet structure that appears just north of Bodega Bay and shows the offshore jet strengthening to the south. We examine the dynamics during an upwelling and subsequent relaxation event in May 2001 in which the WEST measurements show evidence of a strong flow response. The alongshelf variability in the upwelling and relaxation response introduced by Pt. Reyes is evident. Analysis of term balances from the depth-averaged momentum equations helps to clarify the event dynamics in different regions over the shelf. A clear pattern in the nonlinear advection term is due to the spatial acceleration of the southward jet around the capes of Pt. Arena and Pt. Reyes during upwelling. Results from a three-dimensional Lagrangian analysis of water parcel displacement show significant southward displacement in the coastal jet region, including a strong signal from the double jet. Alongshelf variability in parcel displacements and upwelling source waters due to the presence of Pt. Arena and Pt. Reyes is also apparent from the Lagrangian fields. A cyclonic eddy-like recirculation feature offshore of Pt. Arena prior to the upwelling event causes large patches of onshore-displaced parcels. Additionally, across-shelf variability in the response of water parcels along the D line includes decreased vertical displacement and increased alongshelf displacement in the offshore direction. 相似文献
16.
Nobuo Suginohara 《Journal of Oceanography》1974,30(1):23-33
On the assumption that motions of the barotropic mode are horizontally nondivergent, action of the wind stress with longshore variation on a two-layer ocean adjacent to the meridional east coast is studied. Only the equatorward wind stress is considered. Along the east coast, upwelling is induced by the direct effect of the coast and is confined in a narrow strip with the width of the order of the internal radius of deformation. The upwelling propagates poleward with the internal gravity wave speed. Coastal upwelling induced by the wind stress with longshore variation may be interpreted as the generation and propagation of internal Kelvin waves. Associated with the coastal upwelling, the equatorward flow in the upper layer and the poleward flow in the lower layer are formed as an internal mode of motions. When the bottom topography with the continental shelf and slope is taken into account, occurrence of the poleward undercurrent is delayed by a few days because of the generation of continental shelf waves. And, after the forcing is stopped, the shelf waves propagate poleward away from the upwelling region and the poleward undercurrent fully develops. At the margin of the continental shelf, another upwelling region is induced and propagates poleward. 相似文献
17.
A three-dimensional modeling of multidirectional random-wave diffraction by a group of rectangular submarine pits is presented in this paper. The fluid domain is divided into N interior regions representing the pit area and an overall exterior region separated by the imaginary pit boundaries. In the interior region, the analytical expressions of the Fourier series expansion for velocity potentials in the pit regions have been derived with the unknown coefficients determined from a series of Green's function based boundary integral equations. The boundary integral approach has also been applied to obtain the velocity potential and free-surface elevation in the exterior region. The Pierson–Moskowitz (P–M) frequency spectrum was selected for the random wave simulation using the superposition of solutions of a finite number of decomposed wave components. Numerical results for the cases of regular waves and random waves are presented to examine the influences of the pit geometry and incident wave condition on the overall wave field. The general diffraction pattern of alternate bands of increase and decrease of relative wave height in front of the pit system can be observed. It is found that, in the shadow region, the relative wave height is reduced. As the number of pit increases, the effectiveness of reducing the relative wave height behind the multiple-pit system increases. However, the relative wave height within the pit area and in front of the leading pit shows increasing trend. It is noticed that under the random-wave condition, the level of increase and decrease of the relative wave height due to the existence of submarine pits is less pronounced than that observed from results in regular-wave condition. 相似文献
18.
利用海南东方近岸海域2014年至2015年间一整年的海浪观测资料, 分析了海浪的时间变化特征。观测时间段内, 有效波高最大值为4.03m, 平均值0.79m; 平均周期最大值为6.32s, 平均值为3.58s。该海域冬季波高较大, 秋季最小, 常浪向为SSW方向, 强浪向为WSW向。基于该长期观测数据, 文章亦研究了平均周期、有效波高之间的关系, 同时还确立了该海域波高与平均持续时间之间的关系。最后讨论了观测时间段内波浪能流密度的变化特征, 发现一年中能流密度大于2kW·m-1的频率为26%, 且从全年的计算结果来看, 观测位置处12月的波浪能较适宜开发, 但总体波浪能资源不够丰富。文章对于认识海南东方近岸海域波浪特征以及工程设计都具有重要的意义。 相似文献
19.
The erosion depth and the sheet flow layer thickness represent two characteristic parameters for transport processes in oscillatory sheet flow. Formulas for these parameters under regular waves have been applied to obtain characteristic statistical values under random waves. The applicability of the method for practical purposes is illustrated by two examples using data typical for field conditions at water depths of 70 m (Ekofisk location in the North Sea) and 15 m, respectively. Two fictive storms based on the Dohmen-Janssen and Hanes [Dohmen-Janssen, C.M., Hanes, D.M., 2005. Sheet flow and suspended sediment due to wave groups in a large wave flume. Cont. Shelf Res. 25, 333–347] data from large scale wave flume tests have also been utilized to demonstrate how the return period of the sheet flow layer thickness observed in their experiments can be estimated. 相似文献
20.
In this study, unlike most previous investigations for wave-induced soil response, a simple semi-analytical model for the random wave-induced soil response is established for an unsaturated seabed of finite thickness. Two different wave spectra, the B-M and JONSWAP spectra, are considered in the new model. The influence of random wave loading on the soil response is investigated by comparing with the corresponding representative regular wave results through a parametric study, which includes the effect of the degree of saturation, soil permeability, wave height, wave period and seabed thickness. The maximum liquefaction depth under the random waves is also examined. The difference on the soil response under the two random wave types, B-M and JONSWAP frequency spectra, is also discussed in the present work. 相似文献